South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange Extension Circulars SDSU Extension 11-1922 Study of Materials A. Linfield Follow this and additional works at: http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ Part of the Agriculture Commons Recommended Citation Linfield, A., "Study of Materials" (1922). Extension Circulars. Paper 62. http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ/62 This Circular is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in Extension Circulars by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. f E__,..tension Circular Ho. 62 Fovenber 19 22 STUJTI OF MAT:IIBIALCS by llzalea Linfield Zxtension s�eciali�t in Clothing :CXTl'.mSIO;d SFJiVICE South Da�0ta State College VJ� F. I"ur�lien, Bircctor Brookings, S. Dak. Coo per a ti ve !::xtension ",7ork in Agriculture and Hor.1e ::cononics, South Da1 cota State College a�1d U. S. Depa:rtI11en t of "'1o.�r icul ture .Co pe1... a t inG • . I Distributed in furtherartcc of Acts of Congress of Hay a and June 30, 1914. I.:_ �'7:TR 1-:' ;JS OF ____ .. ___ _ In sclectL1g m3/:::.e:r ials the 1m1·chascr C'h_uld l�ho1." not onl.y v1hat quali tJ or g:�2,d2 of i",;.o_·'-�rts.l "i�2y O(; de:-�.D.. r�0.2._,;_ fc:- 2, cert�__ -_n price but be a1Jlc to de t. e�::ni·-_e a.- \7Cl 1 vihcthe :;· that q_ual i ty h;,,,s 11e :::r1 actually secured ir �J�>_:i_cm t . .,f U1e :-rj_c�. In oTdcr to sel0ct 1it::-i.. ·r,cri::iJs \�iscly lJoth k11nwlsd.r:se and ezperience are re _;_ uir.=;d_, ""'::'.""-n.1 :;-cn�u-1_. be .::,:)J.c, tu uis·G:in[·.J.i:-·h the; dif:- rn1..1:-'� 1 2.!l·='- ..we0 ·vPS, crent fibeTs; you krv=:,t -th:� S'i..0'�-d:·_��·'Q 1,;;,.tcrL1J_c., a:1.d their suitability fo:c d�.f f2r 1:;�t 1J;.�:r-rJscs; y ..u. ff1J:� I., "be a.:-:::1e to judbe the durabilj_ty 2.nd :�uo.J.ity 0i'_:;:·_1.t):-..··cs j_n r:::io.t.1�ri tc )Tic·e; .nd you ::1ust l':'10W hon to ,Jotec"i::. st;_l:;:3t,J_tut2s and r}., c_:;_ultcrutions. A, :Y�� .-. f.=1.Jnili0vrit y vr�th st2.n- tnatcri,-;,ls 1is 2, se!'lti ..1 ·to in­ telligent buying. St:--,r1dJ,rds ar:; fa.t::ics vJhic· -1 � c.vr: b:;r�n Lo .. '" n :[or 2x1d J: D2"0�... ye-..,�·-:) their quali ::-iE:s :12,ve been tested_ c�r,.d �c<1. Other 1u2.li ties and ma�e.rip_::;_s c2.n be judged frvu the3c stc.�dz1rc:3. .., ,.. T :-<, . S- !';).L \lTT\·,,..._ .;�J:£\.i \JD. c--- OTT !_,.J.,J,.... _T .1.�' !.T �'-;-)..1�.�·.... :!. �--�_ T..u·::} Bat is te .;. �\ she e r l t, s t T o u. s c 1 o th in -7hite 2.nd dainty colors. Used for waists, thin dr2sses,·collars nnd uffs. Calico - Fl�in weave with desicn pr�nted o� one side. Used for inexpensive d�esres, �pron�. bec�use of its lo� co�t, durabilit:r :ind �"< s e with vl:ic:1 i. t is J.2.u-:1J.r�red. C:.,mbric - .i. lc:i,in vrc;}.. ve -..·vith smooth fini.s11 on one side. for linings .::me. u.:1d0rv/ea:;.� -:hei1 ri10de!_"Q.!,te v-Jcight is de�ired. Canton Fla11t�_e1 - Soft 11iJ.JJ on one side. Used for children's unclsi. wear .::.Tel fer c cz.. t ln�verl ii1ings bec�usc·of its durability �nd V!:llT:�th. lse.A. for drc:.--�cs, :::.nd 2.J)TODS , 9orduroy_ - C or d.ec: r i bol?C. with ve1 ve: ty finish on 0�1e side. Used for suits, hGc.,v_y cL't-.S;:;·"3.::i ex1r:l. sk� rt.3. r FlarrBlett� - So:_:' - c.LJtL r.i F1. n-"p on iJOth sides an figu:ces E2·�i1' • _,, 1-H inted on lJ�ain- 0e.ckr_;J..·0t"- �d..s, .::c. o its 'Jc.. n:trth, . low cost nd ease· o.C laurirle:�in�-;, us2d 1 or :nc;htgouns, undervear and c"hil0.ren Is vvrap)ers. Cretonne - }-'lo..L1. -r·e0,\;- e, 'fith a pi'i.ntec_· design, Used fo :t curtains a�d bed coverln�s. .• • -'!: Diilii ty - ?lain veave with vari�tions - Bec�use of daintynsss. use,l!_ fo:c dr ess2..:;i , ··:c,ists anc1. curt.··;.. ii1 s . Gingham - Plain r eave •;J i th· y,rarp and v: oof of variovs col ored threads to for,:· :;_) la.ids ,.L1d ch e c J.cs . · Used for dr ess e s , ap :2on('s and shirts . Launders nell . Galatea - Heci,vy fi rm · re 0,v e, wj_ th c:;_ esign pr inted on one s ide. Used for children 's clo t� e s , outing suit , when a cloth of strength end dur�bility is desired. '"' kwm ... Plain v1 ec:v0: of fine rn-:.1..te�cL,l , usu:,lly uell sized. Used f6r dress�s, waists, coll�rs, cuffs and cu rt�ins . Lonvcloth - · soft , firm f� ric with a close weav e . Used for children 's dr e s s e s , s.prons and underv1ec.1.r . f·usl in � Plain v1e2.1e m�\de in s cvcr�.l -i.u2.li tics, ble2.ched 2.1 cl 1.1nble :·.c'h2 cl , used fv sh� 2ts, di�,...sses zt nd underv1 eztr v.rhen dur a ­ bility is chief desire . llains ook - Pl2.in we::..-.v e, closely uoYen . used for 1.mderv1eC'-.r . Perc0,le - A finn, closely v10ven cl o th . · Used for dresses, shirtS', cm d ap:cons beco.uso cf lou cost , dux'::.bi li ty , �.rnd e.-�se of 12.undering . and Pigue - Ribbed m�terial - Used for dresses > shirts chi ldr en ' s c o�ts. · Poplin - Pl�in weav e , po� lin v �riety . Used in dresses,· summer suits because of its dur�bility and ease of laund ering . s�teeti - Shiny finish on on� side - Used for linings , under­ e�rments bec�use of its dur�bility. · Voile - Loosely ·v"!cve n , thin rn2.ter i ;_ :.l used for dr es se s and waists . Bedford Cord - Beaford cord we�ve , � soft naterinl . Used f or babi e s ' c o ;::�t s , s 1· i rt s 2..r.. d dr e s s e s . Br oadcloth - Cl osely wov en fabric V'./ ith a smooth s:l ossy sur­ fnce: The fibers �re pricked to m�ke a n�p , whi ch is then pr�ssed down ; leC'sving a beCLutiful finish - Used for suits 2.nd dre sses . - 3o ft . loos ly v;ov en plL.1bl e ma terial ussd for C2.shmere . dresses and baby coa ts Challie - Plain we�v� , liGht v:eic;ht . loo sely woven . pattern printed , used for baby dresses, �. i sts , kimonos . • Cheviot - A twilled we�ve wi th both rough and smooth finiQh - Used for suits and coats . Flannel - Plain weave - Used for childr en 's clothes, petticoatsand dresses becau s e it is Soft , vVcsrm 1 ineX1) 81'1Sive c:md not irr i tn, ting to the skin . Ga bar� - Closely woven , diago nal thr ead , v.rell matched . / Serge - a. French - Clo sely vroven , softer and finer than either of storm s�rges - De s ign 1:rr ought out by weave .. b. Storm - coarser than French - Used for suits �nd dre sses . Twe ed � Rough , unfinished, coarse mat erial , because of its durability und warmth used for su itings . China· Silk - Plain weave I thin ma terL:tl no t very durable - Used for wai sts , and sc�rfs . Canton Cre12.Q_ - Fancy weave - excellent for dresses be­ cause of its durab�lity and does not crush readily. ·crepe De Chine - Frincy weave givin� a crinkly effect, soft shi"ny silk :--used for dresses , blouses, drape s, because of itc durability and softness. Satig_ � Satin wen,ve; smooth shiny surface; softer materiaJ than satin - Used fo r dresses , coat and sui t linings, Ivio ire - Silk with a wa tered effect� This wa tered effect is made after the cloth is v,oven � Used for trimmings and hat covering s . Panne_ VeJ.v.e t - Silk velvet with nap pressed down , Used for dresses , sui ts 1n d hats. Pongee - Plnin weave - soft, pliable mat erial . A dur­ nble and in- expensive silk used for children 's clo thes �s well ,_ts gro vm-ups , T�ffetn - Shiny silk usually wi th a good deal �izing - Used for dresses , skirts and hats. STANDARD LINEN r.IATERIALS Bu tcher 's Linen - He2.vy, cocirse weave - Use d . for butcher 's <prons and for dress skirts . Crash - P12.in weave, coarse and loosely woven - Because of dur�bolity used for draperies, �prons nnd cur tcl- ns. t>reea Jiinsn - Plain weave - Used for drcS $CS and suits, laundrieE ,·,o·ll but crushes very easily. D§zna�k -�Pattern is in warp lines , that is , thTead$ of design run lengthwise. Best linen is sized •ery little . us ed for table­ cloths and napkins because of its beauty and power to shed soil . Huckaba.ck - Uneven wea�e - U sed f or t oweling bec ause ca f its rough surface which easily abs orbs moisture and causes sk'in to glow.