Cipolla Cotta Al Forno Ripiena Di Fonduta E Salsiccia Di Bra
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36 SEE YOU IN THE PIAZZA associated with Piero della Francesca remains in Urbino. The other two hang in the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore and the Gemäldegalerie in Berlin. Ape Wine Bar: In Italian, ape means bee. Stendhal Syndrome: Travelers who are overwhelmed by too much beauty are in the grips of a state described in the nineteenth century by Stendhal (Marie- Henri Beyle), who wrote The Red and the Black. After contemplating a fresco in Florence, his character’s sensations and passions collided: “I had palpitations . the life went out of me.” Such travelers are in need of a break and a cold glass of water. Cipolla Cotta al Forno Ripiena di Fonduta e Salsiccia di Bra BAKED ONION STUFFED WITH FONDUE AND BRA SAUSAGE, SERVES 6 Chef Marco Boschiazzo’s savory roasted onions travel well from lunch to antipasti to first course. The particular spreadable veal sausage from Bra probably will not be available, but do try it when traveling in Piemonte. I substitute a mix of ground veal and a small amount of pork fat. Not at all the same but rustic and savory. My friend Susan tried using sweet Italian sausage with happy results. 6 large yellow onions, unpeeled 1 cup fresh cream ½ cup whole milk 11 ounces Taleggio cheese, cut into small pieces 7 ounces Bra sausage, cut into small pieces (or sauté ¼ pound ground veal and 3 slices finely chopped pancetta) Salt and pepper, QB 1 tablespoon butter Preheat the oven to 250˚F. Roast the onions on a sheet pan in the oven for 2 hours. When they are cool enough to handle, cut off the first third. Scoop out most of the insides (reserving the outer shells), let drain in a colander, then chop the insides and set aside. Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r4.r.indd 36 3/6/19 10:10 AM PIEMONTE 37 Increase the oven temperature to 350ºF. Pour the cream and milk in a medium saucepan, then bring almost to a boil. Lower the heat and add the Taleggio. Stir as the cheese melts. Remove the saucepan from the heat and continue stirring for about 1 minute. Meanwhile, sauté the sausage or meat mixture in a hot pan until browned. Add the chopped onions and about two-thirds of the cheese fondue. Stir to combine, and season with salt and pepper. Stuff the onions with the filling and dab them lightly with flakes of butter. Bake the onions in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes. Heat the rest of the fondue, then serve the onions on a warm fondue bed. Ristorante Bovio, La Morra, Piemonte Fiori di Zucca Ripieni di Ricotta, Verdure Piccole e Pomodori Freschi PUMPKIN FLOWERS STUFFED WITH RICOTTA, SMALL VEGETABLES, AND FRESH TOMATOES, SERVES 4 Chef Dennis Panzeri’s stuffed flowers bloom again on the plate, delicate and sum- mery. Zucchini or squash flowers may be used— just pick the males, the ones not developing into a vegetable. To remove the pistil, I use tweezers. If the flowers are small, halve the recipe for the filling and sauce. FOR THE STUFFED FLOWERS 1 carrot, diced 1 stalk celery, diced 1 small white onion, diced 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 zucchini, diced 4 button mushrooms, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 bay leaf Salt and pepper, QB Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r1.r.indd 37 10/17/18 12:50 PM 38 SEE YOU IN THE PIAZZA 2 cups whole- milk ricotta 3 ounces grated Parmigiano- Reggiano 4 basil leaves, torn Nutmeg, a few grates 12 flowers, pistils and stems removed 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut in small pieces FOR THE SAUCE 6 ripe tomatoes Juice of a half orange 3 tablespoons extra- virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, QB 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar Basil leaves, for garnish Prepare the stuffed flowers: In a medium skillet over medium heat, sauté the carrot, celery, and onion in 2 ta- blespoons of the oil until translucent, about 3 minutes, then add the zucchini, mush- rooms, garlic, and bay leaf. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and the pepper. Continue to sauté for 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Discard the bay leaf. Gently stir in the ricotta, half the Parmigiano, the basil, and the nutmeg. Fill the flowers and put them in an oiled baking dish, scatter the butter over them, and sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano. Prepare the sauce: Cut the tomatoes in fourths and blend them to a very fine consistency in a food processor, then pass them through a sieve. Put the tomato pulp again in the blender, add the orange juice, and whip with 1 tablespoon of the extra- virgin olive oil. Add salt, pepper, and the balsamic vinegar. Chill until ready to serve. Bake the flowers in a 400˚F oven for 15 minutes and serve them with the chilled tomato sauce. Garnish with basil leaves. Ristorante La Piola, Alba, Piemonte Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r4.r.indd 38 3/6/19 10:10 AM Sarde in Saor Sempre Croccanti SARDINES IN SAOR ALWAYS CRISPY, SERVES 4 Chef Francesco Brutto, with the Venetian lagoon and the Adriatic all around him, im- peccably sources the outstanding seafood served at Venissa. If I try to think of a more romantic setting for dinner than the garden of Venissa, I can’t. 3 Tropea onions, thinly sliced 3 bay laurel leaves 1 tablespoon sugar ¼ cup raspberry vinegar with essence of rose petals Salt, QB ¼ cup raisins 24 fresh sardines, bones removed, then frozen All-purpose flour, QB 4 eggs, beaten Fine bread crumbs, QB Extra- virgin olive oil, QB Mix the onions with the laurel leaves, sugar, vinegar, and salt. Boil briefly, 3 to 4 min- utes. Stir in the raisins. Remove the bay leaves and set aside in a small serving bowl. Bread the still- frozen sardines by rolling each in flour, then egg, and then bread crumbs. Fry in plenty of sizzling olive oil until golden brown. On a platter, place the sardines around the bowl of sauce. Ristorante Venissa, Isola di Mazzorbo, Veneto Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r4.r.indd 82 3/6/19 10:11 AM Risotto agli Asparagi al Profumo di Prosecco RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS AND PROSECCO, SERVES 4 The type of rice does make a difference. Vialone nano is a medium-grain and high- starch rice that renders the kind of creamy risotto Chef Gianmaria Cozza prefers in the Veneto. I also like carnaroli for similar results. Arborio isn’t a favorite in my kitchen— too goopy. Optional: Top the risotto with grated Parmigiano. 1 large bunch (1 pound) asparagus, preferably white, stems peeled 4 tablespoons extra- virgin olive oil 1 onion, minced 1¼ cups Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Salt and pepper, QB 1¼ cups vialone nano rice 4 cups vegetable stock 2 ounces Casatella Trevigiana cheese (or other soft cow cheese, such as Taleggio) 1¼ tablespoons butter Cut the asparagus stems into small, round pieces, and thinly slice the tips. In a small skillet over medium- high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and brown half of the onion for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the asparagus stems (not the tips) and cook until crispy and tender, about 3 minutes. Splash in ½ cup of the prosecco and stir, allowing it to evaporate. Add salt and pepper. In a risotto pot over medium heat, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and brown the rest of the onion. Add the rice, and let it toast for 4 minutes, fre- quently stirring. Add ¼ cup of the prosecco and again allow it to evaporate as you stir. Add 1 cup of the stock, and stir the rice for 6 to 7 minutes. Add the stock in ¼- cup increments, letting each addition be absorbed before adding more. When the rice is close to al dente, after about 12 minutes, add the asparagus mixture and tips. When the risotto is ready, add the cheese, butter, and the remaining ½ cup of wine. Stir to combine. Divide risotto among serving bowls and serve immediately. Locanda Sandi, Valdobbiadene, Veneto Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r4.r.indd 114 3/6/19 11:38 AM Gallina Padovana in Saor PADUAN HEN IN SAOR, SERVES 6 The sauce called saor— meaning “flavor” in the Venetian dialect— originally may have been created to help preserve fish. The sweet- sour sauce for sardines and for sole is ubiquitous in the Veneto. At Il Sogno, Chef Silvano Libralesso serves it with a tender poached chicken. I find this outstanding for a summer dinner. Prepare a day in advance for the flavors to heighten and blend. 1 3¼- pound hen 1 carrot, halved 1 stalk celery, cut into 3 pieces 1 onion, peeled and quartered 1 teaspoon salt Thyme sprigs FOR THE SAOR 3 medium white onions, julienned 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 cup extra- virgin olive oil 1 cup white wine 1 teaspoon salt 2 ounces pine nuts 2 ounces raisins 1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips Extra- virgin olive oil, QB In a large pot of boiling water, place the hen, the aromatic vegetables, salt, and thyme. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer for about an hour. Test for doneness. Cool the chicken, then cut the meat off the bones, making sure the pieces are not too small. (You can save the light broth for a soup.) Maye_9780451497697_3p_all_r4.r.indd 115 3/6/19 10:14 AM 116 SEE YOU IN THE PIAZZA Prepare the saor: Toss the onions into a large skillet with 3/4 cup of the vinegar, the oil, white wine, and salt. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat to a simmer.