BEAUTY to ADMIRE First Time in Italy

TURIN CITY GUIDE

NOVEMBER 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN BEAUTY TO ADMIRE First time in Italy. Robert Capa’s unexpected colour photographs are on show in Turin

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

24 SHOPPING Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art, handcrafted by expert goldsmiths and the result of a great attention to detail.

BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO 30 DINING VI A PAG ANE LLI

Parrocchia Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI Catullo is the ideal CORSO GIULIO CESARE ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O place for a romantic S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E fish dinner, infused with

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CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FO VIA MATTIROLO VIA L CEC VIA CARDINALE GUGLIE VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O NOVEMBER 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN A S TA OS F A I V AURO V I A T O Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra VIA BORG V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I M M A S O G U L L I TERBO GLIZZO ROSSI Contents LARGO A V I A G O T T A R D O OMASSIMO I A F R A N V I A S E M P I O N E Ospedale San Giovanni

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MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

CHERASCO VIA AL

E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] ®

whereMAGAZINE Turin We’ve been here for centuries. www.whereitalia.com/turin Top in town We’re waiting for you. PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano Now, we’re ready to show you the most T: +39 02 25063100 [email protected] 1 4 www.whereitalia.com/turin beautiful country in the world. The recent pandemic has severely affected one PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach [email protected] of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach MANAGING EDITOR tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop Alessandra Finzi Publisher in available revenue at the time of writing this [email protected] Where® CONTRIBUTORS editorial could be very depressing, but remember Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, ICONOGRAPHY famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock

once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ CARTOGRAPHY © City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub 15 © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 5 signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy COO is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. Pierfrancesco Coreno [email protected] SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country © MARKETING & ADVERTISING boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, 2 Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were [email protected]

a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best [email protected]

equipped in the world. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Paola Grilli Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are [email protected]

only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Marta Mailhac made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was [email protected]

a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM LUCA LORENZELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM [email protected] © settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in ©

the creation of Italy. SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous MOLE ANTONELLIANA 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the now include artifacts from the prehistoric era PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning to the present time. 3 Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in was purchased by the municipality who set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published decided to make it a monument to Italian than 37,000 artifacts, from the Paleolithic to PALAZZO MADAMA in the next issue. you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences the time of its construction it was the highest Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion always been a reference point in the city, centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes from Roman times to 1848, when it became the Renaissance… style, the Mole has a squat square base passes through Turin’. 2 the headquarters of the first Subalpine EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS topped by a large dome with a spire. You can Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ WHERE® TURIN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI TORINO Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to WHERE® TURIN IS AVAILABLE IN TURIN’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS ascend to the panoramic observation MUSEI REALI Christine of France, who took up residence TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION here in 1600. The view of the city from the discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance! platform either by elevator or on foot by The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has now owned by the Italian government. The Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4 The Publisher Where® magazine hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 museum tour comprises a 3km route spread and the where® PARCO DEL VALENTINO MVP logo are registered over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Morris Visitor Publications trademarks of Morris MUSEO EGIZIO Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Located on the banks of the Po River, and Visitor Publications. spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s >> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS the oldest Egyptian museum in the world Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of most popular park. Its interior houses stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com MVP EXECUTIVE and the second in terms of the value and a major urban transformation and the numerous treasures including the Castello del CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In enrichment of the dynastic collections, which

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a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences TEATRO REGIO bridge, which connects it to the square of the in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous matches have been played here since 2011. century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village The Regio is one of the most important Italian church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying An architectural symbol, it is one of the most Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). theatres on the European scene, offering an renowned for its imposing pantheon-like adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now avant-garde facilities in the world. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the 5 action-packed program of opera and ballet. It shape. 8 occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10 J-Museum, the official football museum of the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie was designed by Filippo Juvarra and ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host VILLA DELLA REGINA inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in PIAZZA SAN CARLO MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE 12 events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal The summer country residence of the House 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original was commissioned by Marie Christine of and is one of the oldest car museums in the BASILICA DI SUPERGA 17th century as a court vineyard. It became building that still remains is its façade, now a France in true Parisian style with seemingly world. The semi-circular building overlooking Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI known as Villa della Regina (literally the UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, the River Po acts as a prelude to the three breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – floors of the collection featuring a spectacular to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, gifted it to his future bride in 1714. by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its layout designed by François Confinio, who also the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent centre. 9 designed the exhibition space of the Museum Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of for celebrations and events. At the beginning residence, distinguished by the remains of its VIA PO PROMENADE of Cinema. 11 accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy original 18th century decorations and A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes LINGOTTO rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an This complex of buildings built in 1916, based ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Stupinigi became the headquarters of the della Regina is a part of the circuit of the absolute must. From here, you can access on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano by the Juventus Football Club whose home Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK MOLE ANTONELLIANA

A unique “vertical” museum − An architectural landmark of the city of Turin, the Mole Antonelliana (planned in 1863 by architect Alessandro Antonelli) was initially conceived as a synagogue, before being bought by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument to national unity. − The Mole Antonelliana is the unique location of one of the most important film museums in the world, the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, renowned for its rich collection of exhibits. − Featuring a unique, vertical layout, it spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. − Organized by levels, not floors, in addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level + 5 metres), the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10) and the ‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above. − A major highlight of the visit is the building’s panoramic elevator which takes visitors on a ride, up 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, a panoramic terrace offering a breathtaking view over the city and its surrounding Alpine range. − The braver of heart can also access the panoramic terrace on foot from the ground floor to discover the places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. www.museocinema.it Via Montebello, 10. Open Wed-Mon 10am-7pm

PH © MICHELE D'OTTAVIO

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Dynastic collection − The Royal Museums - the Turinese museum complex founded in 2016 - are located in the heart of the city, in Piazzetta Reale next to Piazza Castello. − The Museums offer a fascinating itinerary dedicated to history, art and nature, with artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. This large museum project encompasses Palazzo Reale (the Royal Palace), the Royal Gardens, the Library and the Royal Armoury (see photo), the Savoy Gallery, the Archaelogical Museum, Palazzo Chiablese and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud. − The Galleria del Beaumont, home to the Royal Armoury, can be accessed from Palazzo Reale via the Sala del Medagliere. The Royal Armoury, opened to the public in 1837, hosts one of the world’s richest collections of ancient arms and armour together with the Royal Armoury of Madrid and the Imperial Armoury of Vienna. − The Armoury currently hosts more than 5,000 objects ranging from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, including an unmissable section dedicated to 16th century arms and armour. The artefacts displayed originate both from the private collection of the King of Italy and acquisitions and donations, often associated with diplomatic activities. A prime example are the oriental and African arms and armour. − The entry ticket to the Royal Museums includes the following itineraries: the Royal Apartment on the first floor of Palazzo Reale, the Armoury and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, plus the Savoy Gallery and the Antiques Museum.

www.museireali.beniculturali.it WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

OUT OF TOWN

10 OCTOBER – 8 DECEMBER The Italian Truffle Fair at its 90th edition The “Alba White Truffle Fair” is one of the top showcases for haute cuisine and Italian excellence. The heart of the fair is the “Alba White Truffle World Market”, the ideal place to appreciate and buy truffles from the Langhe, Monferrato and Roero area. The “Truffle Show” is the space dedicated to Cooking Shows with great chefs, the Truffle Sensory Analysis, the Wine Tasting Experience, twinnings with territories of food and wine excellence. The program of the 90th edition is currently being defined, stay tuned: www.fieradeltartufo.org 7 NOVEMBER 2020 – 9 JANUARY 2021

ARTISSIMA CHANGES SHAPE 14 FEBRUARY 2020 – 18 JANUARY 2021 CONTEMPORARY-ART This 2020 edition of Artissima Internazionale DISCOVER d’Arte Contemporanea will not have its usual form in the spaces of the MADE IN ITALY IN HOLLYWOOD Oval due to the recent developments in the epidemiological situation. CINEMA Movies, art and fashion. The exhibition at the Mole The event is therefore being reinvented with a new formula, spread Antonelliana celebrates the extraordinary history of Italy’s out over time and space, bringing together physical exhibitions Annamode Costume House, renowned for the creation AND realised with the Fondazione Torino Musei and digital projects, of stunning costumes for blockbuster productions. An confirming itself as a key appointment of the month of contemporary interactive, immersive exhibition featuring 100 costumes art in Turin and of the art system in general. designed for 40 films, in which each garment is displayed ENJOY In its physical guise, Artissima Unplugged will present three exhibition like a work of art. Highlights includes costumes from films like Whether it’s discovering the events projects, at the GAM, Palazzo Madama and the MAO, between 7 La Dolce Vita, King Vidor’s War and Peace (1956), Vittorio De Sica’s celebrating Italian traditions, music and November 2020 and 9 January 2021. The exhibitions, which have the Marriage Italian Style (1964), Guy Ritchie’s King Arthur (2017), design or visiting an exhibition, Where® theme Stasi Frenetica in common, will host the works of the galleries Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette (2006), plus costumes for TV selected for this edition of the fair. The three museums therefore present series The Witcher. brings you this month’s unmissable dates. a distillation of the historical sections of Artissima: Main Section, which Cinemaddosso. From Cinecittà to Hollywood brings together the most representative galleries on the worldwide the costumes of Annamode artistic panorama; New Entries, which presents the emerging galleries Museo Nazionale del Cinema di Torino. Via Montebello, 20 ARTISSIMA. Internazionale d’Arte Contemporanea on the international scene; and Dialogue/Monologue, which brings www.museocinema.it -www.annamodecostumes.com www.artissima.art together the galleries intending to present the work of an artist or a GAM Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Torino. dialogue between two artists with an experimental approach. Via Magenta, 21. www.gamtorino.it In parallel to the exhibition project in the museums, Artissima has 2 JULY – 15 NOVEMBER Palazzo Madama-Museo Civico d’Arte Antica. launched Artissima XYZ, an unprecedented cross-media online BAROQUE TREASURES Piazza Castello. www.palazzomadamatorino.it platform that proposes an immersive experience from 3 November COLLECTIONS The exhibition shows a selection of silver works MAO-Museo d’Arte Orientale. to 9 December, hosting the sections “Present Future”, “Back to the from the Palazzo Madama collection, retracing the history of Via San Domenico, 11. www.maotorino.it Future” and “Disegni”. silverware in Piedmont from the early eighteenth century to the late nineteenth. It starts by illustrating the metalworking techniques used for this ductile, malleable material, and © RENATA SEDMAKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM the assay techniques set in place by the Court of Savoy to guarantee the value and quality of the items being sold. The works on display give the visitor an overview of the table silverware, furnishing items and religious objects. In addition to these artefacts, the display also includes grandiose drawings by Giovanni Battista Boucheron, which are accompanied by portraits of the silversmiths in his family.

SILVER TREASURES. Piedmontese Silver in the Palazzo Madama Collection Palazzo Madama, Piazza Castello (Sala Atelier) Palazzo Madama GAM Torino MAO - Museo d'Arte Orientale www.palazzomadamatorino.it

10 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

©ROBERT CAPA ©INTERNATIONAL CENTER 1 OCTOBER 2020 – 31 JANUARY 2021 OF PHOTOGRAPHY / MAGNUM PHOTOS ► A LOOK INSIDE THE HUMAN SOUL Photographer and member of the Magnum Photos Agency, Paolo Pellegrin takes us into the armed conflicts that ravage the world or into the climate emergency, but also within the walls of his own studio. The exhibition, held in the sumptuous setting 26 SEPTEMBER 2020 - 31 JANUARY 2021 of the Reggia di Venaria, in fact also presents a special and unprecedented section devoted to a personal and intimate story ► UNEXPECTED CAPA by Pellegrin: photographs taken in Switzerland with his family The exhibition presents Robert Capa’s colour during the period of quarantine due to the Covid-19 lockdown. photographs to the public for the first time in Italy. PAOLO PELLEGRIN. Un’antologia Although he is recognized almost exclusively as a Reggia di Venaria, Sale delle Arti (1st Floor). master of black-and-white photography, Capa began

Piazza della Repubblica, 4 - Venaria Reale (Turin) PELLEGRIN/MAGNUM PHOTOS ©PAOLO working regularly with color film in 1941 and used it www.lavenaria.it until his death in 1954. While some of this work was published in the magazines of the day, the majority of these images have never been printed or seen in any form. “Capa in Color” includes over 150 contemporary 25 SEPTEMBER – 20 DECEMBER color prints, as well as personal papers and tearsheets. Organized by Cynthia Young, Curator of Capa Collections LIKE IN A STILL at ICP, the exhibition presents an unexpected aspect 30 works selected from 25 years of of Capa’s career that has been previously edited out of production by Massimo Vitali, an artist posthumous books and exhibitions, and show how he with a well defined style who encapsulates embraced color photography and integrated it into his scenes as though in a movie still. Almost a work as a photojournalist. Canaletto of the modern age, he captures every small detail with his eye and Capa in Color transfers it onto photographic paper in a Musei Reali Torino (Sale Chiablese). realistic, analytical way (here, the Jovanotti's Piazzetta Reale, 1. Infoline: 338 1691652 beach party, 2019). The people appear as capaincolor.it though guided by an “offstage” director, unaware actors in a choral drama.

MASSIMO VITALI. Costellazioni umane MEF – Museo Ettore Fico. 17 SEPTEMBER – 8 DECEMBER Via Francesco Cigna, 114. www.museofico.it ◄ PAOLO VENTURA, WHEN ART BECOMES THEATRE An itinerary through the eclectic career of 1 OCTOBER – 15 NOVEMBER Paolo Ventura (Milan, 1968), one of the ► most widely recognised and appreciated ARCHITECTURE AND SOCIAL LIFE Gianni Berengo Gardin was one of the renowned Italian Italian artists both in Italy and abroad. Ever photographer who collaborated at greatest length with since his early works, Ventura has combined the Olivetti company. The exhibition project highlights great manual skill with a particular poetic the intensity of the professional relationship between the vision of the world, building sets within photographer and the Ivrea-based firm, through a careful and which short fairy-tale and surreal stories partly unseen selection of over 70 black-and-white images come to life, and which are then captured from the time, publications and other archive documents by the camera. redesigned on the basis of a curatorial choice that outlines The rooms of CAMERA host some of his two main sets: a formal one investigating the importance of most suggestive works of the last fifteen architectural planning and a second one which examines years, in a fine blending of languages that the system of social and cultural services that brought the includes drawings, models, sets, papier- factory and the surrounding territory to life. mâché masks and theatrical costumes. 1965-1990. Gianni Berengo Gardin e la Olivetti PAOLO VENTURA. Carousel Camera - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia (Project Room). Camera - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia. Via delle Rosine 18. www.camera.to Via delle Rosine 18. www.camera.to Photo: Unità Residenziale Ovest Olivetti, detta ‘Talponia’, Ivrea, stampa ai sali d’argento Image: Automaton#04 (da The Automaton) su carta, 1971. AASO, Fondo Gianni Berengo Gardin © Gianni Berengo Gardin/ 2010 © Paolo Ventura Fondazione Forma

12 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Royal Residences In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for accessible by bus or car from Turin, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo long hunting expeditions in the company of T and are among some of the best- Juvarra, who designed many of its most members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi preserved examples of 17th and 18th beautiful and widely photographed spaces, was often chosen by members of the century European architecture. They are a including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Savoy household for celebrations and living testimony to the prestige of the local Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century dynastic weddings. monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia the headquarters of the Furniture of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct Museum, and a space for events fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge the history of court life, while the apartments and concerts. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and In addition to its original furnishings and © Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged lodges and country residences, embellished adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as with gardens that reflect the sophistication of public viewing, as is the room hosting the The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal courtly life. collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are the palace, above the monumental corridor public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts Located inside the Park of La Mandria, diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s The courtyard of the castle is also home the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred complex built in the mid-17th century as a Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

14 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN Top destinations around Piedmont © MARCO SARACCO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy his is UNESCO’s official reason for Although geographically the Langhe, Roero are its numerous castles, including that of After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido of world-class cuisine and adding the wine-growing regions of and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century in the village of La Morra, better known restaurant located in the nature reserve of T the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato they all have different morphologies, and currently home to the headquarters as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). marvelous landscapes. All of to its world heritage list in 2014. “An and cultural characteristics. The region’s of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the spectacular views, and head to Massimo these things have earned the exceptional living testimony to the historical varied landscape provides fertile soil for castle, in addition to stocking several of Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous MONFERRATO tradition of grape growing and winemaking an impressive array of local specialties: the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of areas of the Langhe, Roero and processes, of a social context, and a rural from superlative wine, to the prized white also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum In addition to other specialties, the area the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area Monferrato UNESCO World economy based on viticulture. The vineyards truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other must- is renowned for its famous three-lobed occupies a fertile tract of terrain between Heritage status, resulting in of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive sees include the Castle of Barolo and its hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In outstanding example of man’s interaction from Turin, these regions can be accessed surrounding town, which gives its name Indication’ status and used to make various addition to numerous historic, cultural an elite tourist destination. with his natural surroundings.” by car (several of the larger centres can also to the most famous Italian red wine and is sweet treats. If you want to purchase these and outdoor activities, Monferrato is BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ be reached by train). Other options include thought to date back to mediaeval times. tantalizing specialties and see how they’re renowned for its gastronomic specialties. which is symbolic, because man has one of the many organized wine and tasting The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal Nature, culture, art and religion combine managed to shape it, giving it the unique tours on offer. Ask your concierge. museum that takes visitors on an immersive workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to characteristics that it boasts today. journey through the history of viticulture via an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte In this area, the vineyards of several of the THE LANGHE light, film and installations. The museum is history and architecture is a visit to the di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro set over three floors of the village’s stunning Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully feat of architectural design that encompasses Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, River and Liguria, between the provinces medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit preserved Gothic stronghold (www. Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy to the building’s panoramic terrace and its castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a of changing colours and softly rolling hills. among the area’s many tourist attractions ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). to the castle, take a break and treat yourself historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss

16 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 | WHERE NOW OUT OF TOWN [ DAILY TOURS ]

the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area Fashion outlets – in Cella Monte. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the Located in Piedmont, just a short distance ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping underground spaces, carved out in stone, destinations offering year-round discounts. located beneath houses and cellars that, in LUGANO some instances, are real underground tunnels. MENDRISIO Torino Outlet Village These works of arts, carved and modeled by BERGAMO BRESCIA artists, were either used to store bottles of Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE wine, or as pantries, because the temperature ? MILANO inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, Torino ? Outlet Village especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape TORINO harvest) or on special occasions (www. ALESSANDRIA ecomuseopietracantoni.it). Although the ? PIACENZA MAR Vicolungo The Style Outlets majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, BOLOGNA ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also Designer Outlet find a good selection of whites, including Mondovicino Outlet Village THE APPENNINI RIMINI Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine MOUNTAIN RIDGE ? The Mall Sanremo connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca PISA VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located Serralunga d’Alba castle © MIKEDOTTA | DREAMSTIME.COM © MIKEDOTTA in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the MAR LIGURE Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase LIVORNO ANCONA some of the area’s best local wines (www. SIENA Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village enotecadelmonferrato.it). PERUGIA ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from PESCARASituated one hour from Turin, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic as a selection of carefully selected CORSICAdowntown Turin, this is the ideal Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the eateries, guest services, and place to spend a stylish day out is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. amenities for families, this is an where shopping, entertainment Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, ROMA The castle is located in the province of elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, and relaxation combine to setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public satisfy all requirements. luxury designer brands with the surroundings and appealing residences of the House of Savoy holidays 10am-9pm). The outlet is open 7 daysMAR a week TIRRENO beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just • WHERE: located in Settimo from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Torinese, just 15 minutes from the • WHERE: take the A4 Torino- and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- NAPOLI Monticello is one of the most imposing and centre of Turin, 30 minutes from Milano motorway and exit at exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at best-preserved medieval buildings in the area the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been minutes from Milan, near the exits service, departing at 10am from 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso owned and inhabited by the Roero family from the A4 and A5 motorways, Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). the Outlet is easily accessible by front of the Porta Nuova train Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning Experience what it feels like to be a prince or car. The outlet provides a daily SARDEGNAstation) is available from Turin. • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point princess for one night and stay at the Castle shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. Museo Enologico Toso of Guarene, an important stopover on the city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the In the heart of the Langhe area you Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious (www.castellodiguarene.com). architectural complex of the Agenzia di can visit the Museo Enologico Toso, • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including For real foodies, an absolute must is the Pollenzo is well worth your time. where its wine cellar holds the secrets lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product Built in 1833, it now hosts the first University and the hard work of the Toso family brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted Casadei, at up to 30-70% less year- Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, made from lean beef and bacon. Since it of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. at its fourth generation. Toso is a La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh This university was founded and promoted company devoted to the research Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, year-round and traditionally served raw, by the international Slow Food association, and development of red wines (from more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce which studies, protects and disseminates Barbera to Dolcetto) and white accessories, footwear, homeware, also hosts art exhibitions, events well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh the agricultural and enogastromic wines (from the Langhe Arneis to the sports gear and personal care, with and other initiatives for an make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. traditions of countries worldwide (www. Moscato d’Asti DOCG). www.toso.it year-round discounts of up to 70%. entertaining day’s outing. experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. salsicciadibra.it). agenziadipollenzo.com). www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it

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Vigneti Massa which truffle? It is very hard to evaluate the perfect combinations and it is advisable to also consider the type of dish and not only the type of precious tuber. To bring out the flavour of the truffle it is necessary to find a wine that has a good but balanced structure in the mouth, whether white or red; many claim that it is necessary to combine white wines with white truffles, while it is red wines for the black ones. Considering that both truffles and wine have strong flavours and aromas, it is necessary to be careful to dose both correctly so as not to risk overpowering one flavour with the other. Our aim is to CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER seek a certain harmony, a kind of “perfect A fried egg with grated white or black Certified Wine Expert and Owner marriage”, so three basic rules should be truffle? of Milano Wine Affair. Board member considered: The perfect combination is a white wine, of FISAR Milan Delegation. - truffles do not require wines that are too also to avoid the tannins of red wines, Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption aromatic; which are not recommended with egg for many years now. With a passion for wine - wines combined with truffle must not be yolks; a good choice, for example, is a in her blood, she has found her vocation too acidic, but soft; Chardonnay, a Ribolla Gialla, an Erbaluce in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano - truffles are highly-prized, so they require di Caluso, a Timorasso, a Gavi or an Alto Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, an equally high-quality wine. Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco. approaching both companies and visitors to Tagliolini (tajarin) with Alba white truffle? Milan, creating multisensory experiences in COMBINATIONS AT TABLE Here we could combine a Dolcetto d’Alba, the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, Perhaps a few examples may help further a Pinot Nero dell’Alto Adige or a teambuilding, entertainment and travel. clarify the perfect combination. Chianti Classico. A white truffle used for seasoning a juicy fillet of beef? In this case it is Autumn is the season in which you can preferable to opt for an important wine, find the most varied preparations with soft and balanced (without too many truffles in the trattorias and restaurants he truffle, which prefers permeable hints of the cask), such as a Vino Nobile di along the Peninsula: in addition to and calcareous rubble-type terrain, Montepulciano, a Brunello di Montalcino, following the most elementary rules of has found its natural habitat in a Barolo, Sagrantino di Montefalco or food-wine pairing, we invite you to have Truffles and wine, a dozen Italian regions. Various Rosso Conero. the courage to try new combinations. types of this precious tuber can be found starting from the month of September until March (if we exclude Tthe summer truffle). The most important qualities of truffle are the tartufo bianco TRUFFLE FAIRS heaven on earth pregiato, the tartufo nero pregiato and the Known from antiquity, the truffle tartufo bianchetto or “marzuolo”. There are many fair events and feasts Emilia-Romagna - Tartófla Savigno 2020 enjoys absolute pre-eminence. In the Food Hall (7th floor) of the Rinascente in many regions in Italy devoted to Savigno • 1|7 - 8|14 - 15 November department store in Milan, at the Maio truffles. Below are just some important www.tartufosavigno.com This gift of nature is a favourite of Restaurant, a “tuber magnatum pico” (tartufo events in the month of November, in Tuscany - Mostra Mercato Nazionale bianco pregiato) weighing 530 grams by the chronological order: chefs and the most refined palates del Tartufo Bianco Appennino Food Group (Bologna area) was San Miniato • 14-15 | 21-22 | 28-29 November all over the world on account of placed on display for a few days in Marche - Fiera nazionale del Tartufo www.terredipisa.it/events its intense, enchanting aroma, early October. Bianco di Acqualagna which gives a unique touch to This year prices have varied from €1,681/kg Acqualagna • 1-7-8-14-15 November Emilia-Romagna - Sua Maestà il Tartufo for average sizes to €2,134/kg for large sizes; www.acqualagna.com/54-fiera-nazionale Brisighella • 22 November 2020 every dish and succeeds – in these price values are lower compared www.brisighella.org/eventi/ Tuscany - Mostra Mercato del Tartufo combination with the right wine – to last year, however, when they reached bianco delle Crete Senesi Piemonte - Fiera Internazionale del as much as €3,800/kg at the Alba Stock in creating a perfect marriage. San Giovanni d’Asso • 7-8 November, Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (90a edizione) Exchange. 14-15 November Alba • 10 October | 8 December www.tartufodisangiovannidasso.it www.fieradeltartufo.org/ BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER WINE AND TRUFFLES: Tuber magnatum pico (Appennino Food Group) A BALANCE OF FLAVOURS So which wine should we combine with

20 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

UmaniMarche Ronchi - CÙMARO 2015 Conero Riserva DOCG TOP 10 Montepulciano 100% Below is our selection of wine cellars 14.5% ABV located in the Italian regions where www.umanironchi.com fine truffles are produced, with a choice of labels usually proposed for truffle- Villa Bucci - Villa Bucci Riserva 2016 wine matching. Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi Riserva DOCG Verdicchio 100% 13.5 % ABV www.villabucci.com

LaPiedmont Spinetta - Barbaresco Valeirano 2016 Barbaresco DOCG Nebbiolo 100% ÔminaLazio Romana – 14.5% ABV Bucci Cabernet Franc “Ars Magna” 2015 www.la-spinetta.com Lazio Rosso IGP Cabernet Franc 100% Ômina Romana Marchesi di Grésy - Gresy Chardonnay 2018 14% ABV Chardonnay Langhe DOC www.ominaromana.com Chardonnay 100% 13.5% ABV Tenuta di Fiorano - Fiorano Bianco 2016 www.marchesidigresy.com Lazio IGT Grechetto 50%, Viognier 50% Vigneti Massa – Derthona 2018 14% ABV Timorasso 100% www.tenutadifiorano.it 13.5% ABV www.facebook.com/vignetimassa

CantineTuscany Dei – Dei 2017 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo Nero 10% La Spinetta 14.5% ABV www.cantinedei.it Mastrojanni Mastrojanni – Vigna Loreto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sangiovese 100% (Brunello) 15% ABV www.mastrojanni.com Emilia-

FattoriaRomagna Zerbina - Pietramora 2016 Romagna Sangiovese Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian Riserva Marzeno DOC wine better, having fun at the same time? Sangiovese 98%, Ancellotta 2% Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine- 14.5% ABV tastings, wine games and tours in the www.zerbina.com surrounding area. Info and contacts: [email protected] – www.milanowineaffair.com Cantine Dei

22 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN CLOTHING W The Guidelines M H E O R C MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold MEN & WOMEN E . T E R at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the R A V E L Boggi Milano Tax Free coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic

research and high-quality fabrics, offering Refund Guide SHOPPING clients a product that’s excellent value for This directory, grouped by category, is a list of money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, establishments recommended by the editors of 1. value added tax 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a on goods Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova and services, and is part of the European Union’s Based on statistical evidence, the most popular - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. value added tax system. luxury brands are grouped under the separate T: 011 5622017. Map E6 2. category “Top Brands”, which be found on page In some cases, travellers may be granted a 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and Kristina Ti VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific The standalone store of Torinese brand supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. product categories, are listed under “Passion Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this • you are a non-EU resident; sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s • the goods purchased are intended for personal or to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing family use only and are carried in your luggage; traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on for free spirited, independent women, who are • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive 154,94 Euro on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am- (VAT included); Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice generally included in the price of goods. Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of SO San Lorenzo TAX-FREE SHOPPING your passport or any other equivalent document; » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased after style, this stand-alone store offers a third month and exported from the EU: before finalizing selection of established and emerging brands after the month that you bought them; a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel • several specific customs formalities are whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, complied with; its homeware department features furnishing • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful DINING within four months after the purchase was made. selection of tableware and furnishing Reservations for most restaurants are strongly 4. accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must advised. In Italy, service is included in the Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. be shown at the customs exit point when leaving price meaning that although tipping is not Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to BEFORE checking in). the cost of the service and bread. Although no DEPARTMENT STORE 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is Rinascente the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a shopping is located in the city’s highly central must be returned within four months from the date separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. via Lagrange. This department store offers the when the document was issued. Set meals: prices are per person and usually best in fashion for men, women and children, 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). alongside a selection of accessories, design, retailer Damiani jewels, fascinating crafts € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / homeware and beauty by the best Italian (however, make sure that the shop you’ve €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. and international brands. At its food market, chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art, handcrafted by expert goldsmiths and the result of unique you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy Free” sign in its window). ENTERTAINMENT foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer Several venues offering food are included in this designs, great attention to detail and the use of high-quality gems. international products. Don’t miss the renewed immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods section. These are considered as meeting places floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri the passenger from having to return the invoice to amiani is an Italian jewelry THE “MARGHERITA” COLLECTION, >> www.damiani.com our decision to list them here rather than under 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am- “Dining”. the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at company known worldwide for A HARMONY OF SHAPES c/o Boutique Rocca 1794 8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 major international airports or main border crossings. Dthe excellence of its creations. Rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. SIGHTSEEING Most major department stores have Tax Free The secrets of this fascinating craft have of the “Margherita” collection gracefully Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467. Several places like the Musei Reali or the San Carlo dal 1973 Refund offices. Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our Having abandoned its former vocation for been handed down from generation combine precious and semiprecious stones, 8. decision to describe them in special boxes. big-name fashion brands, this multi-functional The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply to generation, from the founder Enrico refined settings and unusual design details, The information provided on museums and concept store focuses on collections based the payment of a small administrative sum which Damiani to his son Damiano, and then to his thus bridging the gap between tradition monuments is verified as meticulously as on a ‘no brand’ approach, giving way to a is directly deducted from the amount of VAT grandsons, Guido, Silvia and Giorgio. and modernity. The flower, represented in possible. However, data such as telephone selected assortment of creations by emerging refunded to the traveller. The Maison is the only jeweler in the world all its lightness and compositional numbers, opening hours, prices and the designers. Besides perfumes, essences, 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, to have won as many as 18 Diamonds complexity, shines with dazzling flashes accessibility of sites are all subject to change, within a reasonable period of time, he or she on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration Japanese and American designers, the store International Awards, the Oscar of the that reveal the absolute quality of the gold, should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the work, museum loans or changes features a selection of apparel, homeware international jewelry world. The excellence diamonds and precious stones used and the of management. Ask your concierge. and hand-crafted Japanese items. A terrace aforementioned companies. of its creations has been admired by many skill of the Maison's jewelers in accentuating with a bar welcomes customers wanting to sip 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded All details are correct at the time of going to stars, including Sharon Stone, Tilda Swinton, the uniqueness of each gem. The daisies a cocktail or choose their favourite dish from directly by customs offices. press but several details can change: ask your the small menu that changes weekly.www. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and Brad shine in the three versions in diamonds and concierge to double-check all information. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Pitt, not to mention Italy’s Isabella Rossellini white, rose and yellow gold, to enhance the Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 161. and Sophia Loren. beauty of a kind and romantic woman. T: 011 5114111. Map F4

24 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ FASHION DESIGNERS] [ RINASCENTE] Top Brands One-stop shop

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open A stroll through the streets 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 of the centre, amidst elegant Map F4 19886532. Map F3

royal porticoes (that extend HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am- squares embellished with T: 011 546971. Map F4 7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5

sumptuous architecture, is a ITALIA INDEPENDENT— SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. up the city’s authentic charm. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat T: 011 535345. Map E5 • 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Open Mon 3.30pm- It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. 7.30pm; Tues-Sat

shopping enthusiasts. In the Map F5 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- heart of the city, often referred 7.30pm. Corso to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Racconigi, 32 bis. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- T: 011 3852651. Off Map the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5 WOLFORD—www.wolford.it elegant via Roma and the Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Tues-Wed 10am- parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; justice to the exquisite Italian T: 011 5620678. Map E5 Thus-Sat 10am-7.30pm; The best shopping and international fashions on Sun 3.30pm-7pm. LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it Via A. Doria, 6. display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; T: 011 531348. in Turin Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- point for young, trendy Map F5 A year after its opening, Rinascente fashion is via Garibaldi – one 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61. T: 011 547136. Map F4 confirms its role as a point of of the longest pedestrian • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat reference for shopping in the city. streets in Europe – which 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- runs from Piazza Castello to 7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447. The store offers new aesthetics Map F3 Piazza Statuto. The ideal place and new spaces for a unique for lovers of antiques and MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com shopping experience! Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. vintage items is via Po, Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- The Rinascente department store in Turin has or Eleventy. On the second floor, visitors include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 completed a dynamic global restyling will find themselves immersed in a world of Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more.

3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. process that has now provided the building contemporary fashion. Fans of denim will be The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. in order to optimise the retail space inside and Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— give the new Turin Rinascente store a more Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat distinctive identity. Following the opening of selection of streetwear labels. Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design Another groundbreaking addition is the renowned for their contemporary classic T: 011 4407207. Map F4 T: 011 4782004. Map F4 and food, now the ground floor hosts a new creation of an outdoor clothing area, where style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also area devoted to accessories, jewelley and brands showcased include EA7, Napapijri host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, featuring high-end or The North Face. striking architectural display, infused with Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. a romantic mood; the collections include T: 011 5613226. Map F4 T: 011 5618744 Map F4 makeup brands, and the new Temakinho The third floor presents contemporary restaurant, where you can sample ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Japanese-Brazilian cuisine. complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. The first floor instead acts as a showcase for point of the floor is a 250 square meter area children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks T: 011 5066699. Map F4 Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. classic collections, with a focus on outerwear dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased by big-name brands complete the shopping Map E5 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com by brands including Emporio Armani, Fay include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, experience at the store. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s fall/winter 2020-2021 and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other side of the Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. collection draws inspiration from light, nature floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. >> Rinascente Torino. Open 7 days a week. • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. and the delicate shades of light neutrals. brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for Check the opening hours on www.rinascente.it T. 011 5625977. Map F4 Map F4 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

26 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

VI A PAGANELLI

Parrocchia

Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZO L A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I V IA A NDREA SANSOV V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRADA DELLA C Allianz Stadium ONT INESSA VI V I A R E I S S R O M O L I A AL CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V FONSO VI A REFRA ANZO L A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E V I A G V IA M A I U S E P P E VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA BADINI CONFALONIERI M A S S A R I V I A G I U S E P NCORE VIA VENARIA P E M A S S A R I S A C PA N I S E C IO D V I P P E O’ A G N I U S E USE AR P P E M GI A S S A R I D O VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI VI

V I A R I C C A R V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI E T E V I L L O A G PIAZZA I U S E P P E M A

V I A M A S S A MANNO VIA ENRICO REYCEND S S A R I V I A R E Giardino Vittime delle Foibe V I A GIUSEPPE C O R S O G R O S O R B E T E L L O S E T O VIA DE MARCHI I S S R O M O L I CORSO GIULIO CESARE

VIA LEONARDO FEA

STRADAALTESSANO VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA

ST RADA D V ELL E VA I A T E R N I LLE T T V I E A O C O R S O G R O S S E T O I S RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE E R N I A ROSSI MBARDIA O V I A L E L D E I M LE VALLETTE O DEL CA U G H E T Stazione A T I D CINCINNATO CORS C O R S O G R O S S E T O V CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE I VIA ALA DI STURA A STRA VIA FIESOLE NZIO T E R N I V V I A L U C E N Chiesa QUI I A L T O PIAZZA VIA PIRANO V I A V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I S O S P E L L O VIA CAMPIGLIA Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I U V I A B O T T I C E L L I C CONTI

CORSO DEL MOLISE C A Chiesa Santa Giardino V I A S O S P E L L O DI E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V Caterina da Siena REBAUDENGO CORSO LUCIO V Chiesa Don Gnocchi I A T E R N I V I A S O S P Madonna di Campagna E L L O Giardino Jaquerio ADONNAA STRA V I M GN PIAZZA LE V I A T E A AMPA RUGGERO PIAZZA R N I VI I C D V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO PIAZZA BONGHI, DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I VIA PARENZO VIA SARGIO VETTA V I A B R E N VIA GIOVANNI SEGANTINI V I A F O R L I ’ VIA CARDINALE G. MASSAIA TA STRADAALTESSANO V I A F O D'ITALIA D EL BORGO VITTORIA L I G VIA CASTELDELFINO Parco Sempione Est N O V I A M I C H E L E C V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O L A O P P I O R BO C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO V I A M I C H E L E CORSO LOMBARDIA C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A V I T E V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti PIAZZA VIA CAMPIGLIA V I A F O PASQUALE V I A C A R L O L O R E N Z I N I V I A B E R L I G N O VILLARI N A R D I N O L Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata

V I A N I G R A U I N I V I A B R E G L I O V I A G U B B I O Chiesa Parr. S.Giuseppe VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE VIA MAZZE’ CORSO VERCELLI Benedetto Cottolengo VIA BREGLIO V I A E M I L I O B R U V AS TI R A D EL A V I A B R E G L I O V I A G O T T A R D O V I A F O L I G N O V I A S E M P I O N E V I A L E M M E V AI B O T T CI E L L I

S C A V I A A S S I S I V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ C O R S O T O S C A N A V I A B E R VIA SARGIO N A R D I N O L CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA U I N I LUIGI

CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FOGLIZZO VIA MATTIROLO VIA LAURO ROSSI VIA CARDINALE GUGLIELMO MASSAIA VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O A S TA OS F A I V V I A T O Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra VIA BORG V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I M M A S O G U L L I V I A G O T T A R D O OMASSIMO LARGO V I A S E M P I O N E Ospedale San Giovanni

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V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

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D VIA ERRICO GIACHINO V I A F O R L I ’ CORSO MORTARA VIA VALPRATO VIA SAVERIO MERCADANTE O LARGO PIAZZA N VIA DEL RIDOT TO V I A G O T T A R D O STRADELLA PIAZZA VIA CHERUBINI V I A S E M P I O N E A OTTORINO TRE T VIA CHERUBINI RESPIGHI Chiesa del Santo Volto - CABINE CORSO POTENZA VIA LUIGI SALVATORE CHERUBINI VIA BORGARA C VIA VALPRATO VIA VALPRATO VIA MONTANARO A V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A

C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T VIA FRANCECO CIGNA

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CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA PIETRO COSSA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA BALDISSERA Parrocchia VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene C O UROS M A BRI A NV I T O CON ECI C H I PIAZZA CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI T B O N C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO VIA ERRICO PETRELLA CORSO GIULIO CESARE CRISPI VIA SANTHIA’

V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE Piscina scolastica comunale E8 PIAZZA VIA FRANCECO CIGNAVIA PINEROLO GIOVANNI D O R A R I P A R I A CORSO POTENZA VIA PIOSSASCO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I VIA GIAVENO VIA LIVORNO VIA GIOVANNI PACINI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA B E IN A S C O VIA PINEROLO CORSO PALERMO LARGO VIA MONTE ROSA L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO VIA ANTONELLO DA MESSINA VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO D O R ARP I A RA I

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina Parco del Meisino C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I VIA CUNEO LARGO VIA PISTOIA VIA LUIGI DAMIANO BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA BRA VIA TOLLEGO CORSO REGIO PARCO CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VIA FOSSANO VIA LIVORNO VIA CREMONA CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S VIA NOVI VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio V I A B I E L L A PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BARI V I A C O M O V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO CORSO LECCE L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE ' C O R S O B R E S C IA V V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S CORSO GIULIO CESARE P A A DI O V A I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A R O V I G O

V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA SAN DONATO VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

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VIA VITTORIOANDREIS VIA PIETRO COSSA S. Ermenegildo VIA SALBERTRAND S. Giovanna D'Arco STRADA A PIAZZA Re e Martire VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI CAMPIDOGLIO SI VIA BARCELLONA VIA VAGNONE NTICA BORGOMANERO VIA ORTA DI COLL VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA MARIA AUSILIATRICE VIA FRANCECO CIGNA VIA CARLO CAPELLI VIA MUSINE’ VIA BALME VIA CORIO VIA SALERNO DISCOVER MORE EGNO LARGO LARGO

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO SHOPPING Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori VIA DURANDI CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE

VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA watchmakers since the 18th century,VIA VITTORIO ANDREIS Rocca rates this retrò-style atelier is a go-to destination for Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA JEWELLERY &AUSILIATRICE Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Nostra Signora VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI EYRON Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture GIAMPIETRO del Suragio WATCHES VIA GIACOMO MEDICI Piccola Casa della Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA CHIRONI selection of the world’s most prestigious brands and brocade armchairs. The store offers a Chiesa VIA NICOLA FABRIZI Divina Provvidenza L U N G O D O R A FR I E N Z E VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA BURONZO Astrua 1860 PIAZZA BENEDETTO Cottolengo VIA VITTORIO ASINARI DI BERNEZZO Madonna PIAZZA VIA CARLO TENIVELLI including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy VIA BORGOMANERO VIA DELLA Divina Provvidenza VIA V.ASINARI DI BERNEZZO VIA ROASIO RISORGIMENTO MIGLIARA V I A A N C O N A E H C R A M O S R O C VIA GIOVANNI ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of theFORCA Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange & Sohne, Longines, garments, with the exception of French brand Chiesa COTTOLENGO SA PI AV I PARELLA VIA ASCANIO SOBRERO VIA MODENA A I R A P I R A R OD VIA SOSTEGNO oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in Immacolata Concezione CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini. Rocca is Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese Chiesa V I A S . C H I A R A C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA San Donato VIA SAN DONATO the heart of Turin, between the First Italian A Chiesa Parr. S. Anna AMEDEO PEYRON VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Chiesa Evangelica Valdese acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a Sacra Famiglia Parliament and the National Library. A key visitor Cimitero Monumentale di Torino VIA BIANZÈ professionalism and expert consultancy. Located collectionCORSO of GIULIO strictly CESARE Italian-madePRIOCC footwear and PIAZZA VIA L. ARIOSTO . VIA CARLO MICHELE BUSCALIONI

VIA GIACINTO COLLEGNO GIACINTO VIA . D V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE PEYRON attraction at the entrance to the boutique is an L U C O RNSO O V A RA in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. C Open VIA G. MAMELI V I A F O G G I A

VIA RAFFAELLO MORGHEN RAFFAELLO VIA IA N GD O O SAR V P O V I A V I T T O R I O S A S S I V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I elevator operatedV I A S A N TA with C H I A R a visible gear mechanism founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm;V Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; VIA ROSOLINO PILO CORSO PRINCIPE EUGENIO VIA C. CAGLIERO VIA GIUSEPPE TALUCCHI MICHELESCHINA VIA Anagrafe CORSO SVIZZERA VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA reminiscent of those used in watches. At its VIA PARMA VIA ROSOLINO PILO VIA ROSTA at the end of the 18th century. Tues-Sat 11am- 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. CORSO PALERMO VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA LARGO VIA CARLO CAPELLI V I A C A R L O I G N A Z I O G I U L I O VIA SAN DOMENICO A CIBRARIO historic store, boasting an innovative, modern 7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. CentroT: 011 Palatino Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. Parco della Tesoriera PIEDICAVALLO VIA Ex Ospedale San Luigi VIA SOSTEGNO VIA MATTEUCCI Pala Fuksas VIA MANTOVA VE RO NC OA RSO VIA SALBERTRAND concept, Astrua presents its contemporary VIA GIANFRANCESCO RE CORSO LECCE VIA DEL CARMI 5621467/5629260. Map F4 Map H3 VIA PIETRO PIFFETTI VIA A. MANZONI V I A S A N jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and O N A Chiesa Cristiana Mercato CORSO XI FEBBRAIO PIAZZA TA Alimentare V I A V A L G I O I E V I A V A L G I O I E Evangelica Pentecostale C H I A Tonatto ProfumiVIA GIAN DORA RIPARIA V I A V A L G I O I E STATUTO precious accessories.NE In addition to several PIAZZA CORSO MONTE GRAPPA VIA FELICE CORDERO DI PAMPARATO R A PASSION SHOPPINGMercato FRANC NA VIA DIGIONE PIAZZA of the world’s most coveted watchVIA SAN DOMENICObrands, PIAZZA DELLA Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of Italian VIA EXILLES V I A B L I G NY Ittico VIA CARLO ALLIONI Santuario ESCO FIOCHETTO VIA BRIONE VIA BONELLIMANUELE REPUBBLICA CORSO REGIOMESSI PARCO CAD O SRE della Consolata perfumery throughout the world. The real artistic LUNGO DORA FIRENZE

VIA BORGOSESIA VIA ALPIGNANO including Rolex, Patek Philippe,CORSO Jaeger-LeCoultre, VALDACCO Museo dellaCulti House Torino FILIBERTO FANE VIA CAMANDONA BERNINI PIAZZA V I A Mercatoheritage ofC O Rthe S O R E GMaison IN A M A R G H E R ITis A the ‘Olfattoteca’, an Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, At this small, charmingOR boutique decorated in CORSO FRANCIA STATUTO VIA ALBERTO NOTA Alimentare CORSO CATANIA Fermi PIAZZA Principi d'Acaja VIA DEL CARMINE Sindone VIA MAGENTA IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture archive that contains hundreds of olfactory notes SA PI AV I CORSO FRANCIA VIA PIETRO COSSA Giardino Giuseppe Delno VIA GIOVANNI SOMIS Chiesa di VIA SOSTEGNO RIVOLI V I A E D M O N D O D E A M I C I S Chiesa La Visitazione CORSO FRANCIA Bernini Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano of Culti,Santa designed Chiara to stimulate the senses in a where, like a haute couture atelier, you can create CORSO CADORE PIAZZA VIA DELLE VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA CORSO SAN MARTINO PIAZZETTA CORSO TELESIO VIA MILLAURES Chiesa di NZE glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury mixtureDELLA of design, art and fragrance. The space your own bespoke fragrance, based on individual RE VIA GRAZIA DELEDDA DEL VIA DELLA CONSOLATA Sant’Agostino to I Racconigi VISITAZIONE VIA S. CHIARA r LUNGO AGLIARI VIA GIACOMO LEOPARDI CORSO FRANCIA requirements. All the products in the collection CORSO MARCHE VIA LUDOVICO BELLARDI MONASTERO VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA BOUCHERONaccessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage housesSan Giovanni all the brand’s collections of room and VIA MODENA LUNGO DORA FI Rivoli Chiesa del PIAZZA VIA Basilica

VIA ENRICO CIALDINI Battista Umbe Porta Palatina CORSO REGGIO Y E R O D I U G A I V SAN VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA ANT’AGOSTINO Mauriziana ia are created using the traditional techniques V I A C LUNGO DORA VOGHERA fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas.V IOpen A P ICarmine AV E Mon Giardino DORA SIE

Monte Grappa VIA DEI QUARTIERI SAVOIAhome fragrances including DO diffusers, room sprays,er A N A I B U R A I V VIA BORGONE VIA V I A F I L I P P O J U VA R R A DORA RIPARIA VIA TRANA Jan Palach VIA CORTE D’ MENICO RONDÒ VIA PARMA PIAZZA Parrocchia V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I Chiesa di Gall of haute perfumery. The alcoholicMuseo di Antichità compounds LUNGO DORA SIENA CORSO FRANCIA 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.VIA DELLA CIT TADELLA candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.V I A D E L L A B A S I L I C A RIVELLA Pozzo Strada Maria Regina Parrocchia San Domenico D R A L U A E B A I V VIA COAZZE Museo www.astrua.com. Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of are filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after NA MASSAUA VIA FREIDOUR Gesù Nazareno VIA G. L. PASSALACQUA VIA GIOVANNI BERTR culti.com. OpenAPPELLO Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm- C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I delle Missioni V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A Area Archeologica C O RSOT R TO N A CORSO BELGIO VIA SUSA di Arte Orientale balance of craftsmanship and innovation. CAD O SRE VIA A. MANZONI Massaua Piazza Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. Map F4 7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4 del Teatro Romano CORSO FRANCIA Marche E Chiesa di Open Tues-Sat 2.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 11am-7pm. Giardino ex Ex Stazione Porta Susa San Dalmazzo VIA G.F. BELLEZZA C O R S O P E S C H IE R A VIA SANT’ANTONINO AN Galleria Sabauda RoccaVIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 1794 Venchi Unica VIA LE VIA CAPRIE CIT TURIN DI La Belle Histoire www.tonatto.com Via della Rocca, 14c. RA U ci V I A S A NT’ANTONINO XVIII Dicembre C O R VIA VIPACCO VIA VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA V I A M I L A N O Comunali PIAZZA LUNGO DORACampus SIENA Luigi Einaudi

VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA BRUINO Master jewelers and Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana,LARGO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA AURELIO SAFFI ROLEX RETAILER Paradiso O T: 011 835631.Cattedrale Mapdi San Giovanni G6 Battista VIA S. GIORGIO CANAVESE GIORGIO S. VIA I I TI RIE VIA LUIGI MARTINI, CORSO INGHILTERRA PIAZZA VIA QUATTRO MARZO C O R S O C E R N A IA VIA PERRON QUATTRO S OS MA N A UO ZR I Chiesa del VIA GOFFREDO CASALIS V I A F I D I A Municipio di Torino Santissimo CORSO FRANCIA V I A M A T T I E ARBARELLO V I A O R O PA

VIA EUSEBIO GARIZIO Nome Di Gesù VIA POZZO STRADA MARZO V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I Giardino V I Giardini Reali Superiori V I A FA B R Chiesa A G IU S E P P E B A R B A R O U X Bambini di Beslan CORSO PALESTRO VIA ASSAROTTI della VIA STAMPATORI Basilica Corpus Domini Y N G I L B A I V COLLEGNO VIA VILLAR FOCCHIARDO VIA GIACINTOVIA AVIGLIANA COLLEGNO Palazzo VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI Parrocchia Misericordia Chiablese V I A S A N TA G I U L I A C O RFCSO NA RILG OU I VIA Santa Barbara Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Palazzo VIA VAL LAGARINA BARDONECCHIA RUFFINI LuxuryVergine e Martire shopping V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I VIA TRECATE V I A Stazione Reale di Torino S. Rocco O CORSO BELGIO VIA GIOVANNI CARLO CAVALLI VIA SUSA I LUNGO PO ANTONELLI VIA THURES V I A BARDONECCHIA Porta V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A MASO BRUTA NT A E V I Parrocchia Santuario di G VIA ABATE PIETRO CHANOUX CORSO BOLZANO Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo Parrocchia VIA BARDONECCHIA F E R R A R I S Santa Maria G VANCHIGLIETTA San Pellegrino Laziosi VIA XX SETTEMBRE LARGO VANCHIGLIA Nostra Signora del Susa di Piazza A San Leonardo Murialdo BARDONECCHIA Palazzo VIA MILANO Chiesa SS. Trinita M MONTEBELLO V I A A N A I B U R A I V della V I A O R O PA Sacro Cuore di Gesù Parrocchia S. Rosa Da Lima CORSO BOLZANO Chiesa di O VIA VANDALINO Chiesa Luce M ON E L O S S U B A I V Caserma San Francesco D'Assisi ANTI R I VIA DANIELE MANIN D R A L U A E B A I V P A N O T R O T O S R O C VIA VANDALINO Natività PIAZZA VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA Cernaia V IA M O N T E D I P IE T À V I A L E VIA CLAUDIO BEAUMONT VIA F. GUICCIARDINI PIAZZA VIA SAN DALMAZZO di Maria Vergine VIA REVELLO ERC V IA C E S A R E B A L B O

VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA M.SPANZOTTI Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti VIA VANDALINO N A I G R E B L A E T N O M A I V Porta Susa VIA SAN TOM CASTELLO V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I ADRIANO V IA S E B A S T IA N O B E A T O V A L F R È Giardino V I A O R O PA VIA GRATTONI Lamarmora V IA S A N TA G IU L IA VIA VANDALINO BORGONE VIA CORSO TRAPANI V I A F R É J U S C O R S O C E R N A IA CORSO CASALE VIA MEDARDO ROSSO Mastio della Cittadella IA G.F. BELLEZZA Palazzo V VIALE VITTIME DELLA SHOAH V I A M VIA DE SANCTIS V I A F I D I A VIA MONTEBELLO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA ADAMELLO VIA TRECATE V I A F R É J U S Madama Tribunale di Torino V IA G O Z Z I V I A R A I M O N D O M O N T E C U C C O L I Torre Littoria Teatro Regio V I A V VIA LUIGI TARINO A S I L E A L E C S A N D R I CORSOV I GALILEO VIA PIETRO MICCA Auditorium Rai VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I A G I A N N O N E Chiesa di

VIA ARVIER VIA CASTAGNEVIZZA VIA VALDIERI CORSO VINZAGLIO San Tommaso VIALE VITTIME DELLA SHOAH Giardino V I A F R É J U S VIA CESANA VIA G.FALCONE V I A E T T O R E D E S O N N A Z V I A A S I A G O Nicola VIA ANTONIO MEUCCI S. Giuseppe Grosa G. B. VIOTTI V IA G IU S E P P E V E R D I VIA CREA VIA FIENZA VIA XX SETTEMBREIA N V O V I A M O R E T T A CORSO INGHILTERRA Galleria VIA SANT’OTTAVIO Chiesa di Santa Giulia Grattacielo VIA PETROCCHI V I A O T TA V I O R E V E L V IA C E S A R E B A T T IS T I IA GUASTALLA I H C S E L L E N U R B O S R O C VIA SAGRA S. MICHELE VIA ANTONIO BERTOLAVIA ROMA Subalpina V VIA C VIA LOMBRIASCO PIAZZA VIA LUIGI CAPRIOLO Giardino Caserma Lamarmora V IA S A N T V AI P O Teatro Stabile V IA D E G L IA NE Giardino Intesa Sanpaolo Teatro Carignano VIA MICHELE BUNIVA LUNGO PO ANTONELLI PO VIA MILANO PIAZZALE VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA CHAMBERY Paradiso CARIGNANO VIA GIOACHINO ROSSINIMole Antonelliana Luigi Chignoli VIA BERTOLETTI V IA C E S A R E B A L B O REGINA MADONNA VIA CHAMBERY V I A M O N T E O R T I G A R A A T E R E S A Palazzo Carignano Teatro Gobetti VIA SAN TOMMASO Galleria S. Federico VIA DANTE DI NANNI Museo Nazionale del Cinema N A P I O MARGHERITA I I TI RIE VIA VIA CHAMBERY V I A F R A S S I N E T O PIAZZA Chiesa di V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I V I A N I N O B I X I O CORSO BOLZANO Museo Nazionale SOLFERINO Santa Teresa D'Avila R VIA VIA MONTE ASOLONE del Risorgimento Italiano T IS T I VIA DONATI V IA S A N TA G IU L IA V I A V I G O N E Museo Egizio PIAZZA CORSO MONTE CUCCO C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Sant’Antonio C O R S O M A T T E O T T I Biblioteca Radio Rai Palazzo CENISIA VIA POLONGHERA CARLO Museo della Radio LIA Ponte Regina Margherita VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA VITTORI DEL PILONE da Padova Nazionale Nuovo VIA SAN FRANCESCO Chiesa e della Televisione VIA A.AVOGADRO Chiesa di ALBERTO Universitaria C O R Museo del Carcere Le Nuove VIA R. GANDOLFO San Filippo Neri San Francesco CHIG V I A F. A Z Z I VIA BARGE VIA SANT’ANTONIO DA PADOVA VIA A. V. PAPACINO O ALFIERI da Paola Dipartimento di Filosoa VIA ONORATO CASTELLINO Parrocchia e Scienze dell'Educazione PIAZZA V IA M A R I A MONTEBELLO S OS MA N A UO ZR I VAN San Benedetto Abate VIA GIULIA DI BAROLO POZZO STRADA SAN CARLO VI V IA G IU S E P P E V E R D I Parrocchia V I A Vinzaglio SETTEMBRE CORSOGesù Adolescente RACCONIGI Chiesa dell’Immacolata A V IT T O R VIA PAOLO BORSELLINO The historic boutique comprises two Concezione V AI P O VIA PEROSA C O R S O A D R IA T IC O A R E H G N O L O P A I V VIA MAGENTA V I A P. B O R S E L L I N O Chiesa della Piazzale Aldo Moro LUNGO PO NICCOLO’ MACCHIAVELLI floors, four hundred square metres, nine I A V I SS. Annunziata VIA LUIGI FERDINANDO MARSIGLI Chiesa di V I A A P R IN C Santi Angeli Custodi VIA DELL’ARCIVESCOVADO V I A X X N I N O C O VIA EUSEBIO BAVA NE VIA MONTE ORTIGARA V I A S E S T R I E R E V I A I S O N Z O VIA CONFIENZA San Carlo Borromeo V I A T O C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I brightly-lit shop windows and top name VIA PERRERO VIA VINCENZO VELA S T A V I A V I G O N E I P E A M E D E O F A N VIA CARDINALE MAURILIO FOSSATI Chiesa di Santa Cristina PRONDA Ospedale Martini E VIA REVELLO brands, including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, PIAZZA N A P I O VIA DELL’ARSENALE PIAZZA OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni CLN V IA G IO V A N N I G IO L IT T I C O RGSO A BTIE V I A A . V O C H I E R I VIA CARLO LIA VIA VERZUOLO Breitling, Venini, Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, VIA CESANA STRADA VICINALE DELLA PRONDA VIA ISSIGLIO Chiesa della EMANUELE II VIA CANDIDO VIBERTI VIA G.DI BAROLO A. Lange & Söhne, Ulysse Nardin, Baume Visitazione VIA GIUSEPPE POMPA CHIG VIA CARAGLIO VIA SAN QUINTINO CORSO CASALE V I A T O LARGO VITTORIO C O R S O M A T T E O T T I ● Rocca 1794 VAN F A N & Mercier, Longines, Bliss and Tissot. ELLE ROSINE PIAZZA VIA CRIS Parco AV I V AI FG I LED I ME I LTAI R I SA NA MTV I A A RI Z A RLEO VIA LUIGI LEONARDO COLLI VIA MAGENTA EMANUELE II D E V I A O R S I E R A VIA CAMPIGLIONE VIA M. PESCATORE VIA DANTE DI NANNISOL V IA M A R I GUIDO O VIA S. FRANCESCO DA PAOLA V I A VIA SAGRA S. MICHELE VIA SERRANO FERRUCCICORSOFRANCESCO Its spaces, curated down to the last detail, Ignazio V I A S T E L V I O SAN MASSIMO GOZZANO Chiesa Ortodossa VIA M A

I G I N O C C A R O S R O C PO CORSO RE UMBERTO VIA G. AMENDOLA rumena di Santa Croce show Rocca’s renewed commitment to VIA A V IT T O R Michelotti VIA V. BELLINI VIA P. GOBETTI Camera di commercio di Torino CORSO TORINO VIA CARLO ALBERTO PIAZZA R CORSO QUINTINO SELLA VIA CUMIANA VIA MONGINEVRO GAM - Galleria Civica V I A A N T O N I O G R A M S C I Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia C B RC I A A I V I A G E N O L A Turin and, together, reveal the brand’s VITTORIO PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO MOROSINI I V I A S T E L V I O VIA ROMA A STRADA VICINALE DELLA PRONDA VIA VINCENZO VELAd'Arte Moderna VENETO CORSO CASTELFIDARDO revamped image. The store’s sophisticated, degli Studi di Torino SABOTINO C O R S O S T A T I U N IT I e Contemporanea Teatro Vittoria VIA G. PARINI Madonna degli Angeli V I A M O N G I N E V R O CORSO TRAPANI VIA MONGINEVRO contemporary interior design revolves V IA C A V O U R V I A M O N G I N E V R O V AI M A R AI V TI T O R AI VIA MONGINEVRO VIA PAOLOPolitecnico BORSELLINO di Torino CORSO TORINO V I A M O N G I N E V R O around the new open-plan laboratory. PIAZZA RTIRI DELLA LIBERTA’ VIA SAN PAOLO VIA A. GASTALDI PIETRO VIA ANDREA DORIA Madonna della Guardia VIA MAGENTA Museo di Mineralogia VIA MA Re UmbertoOFFICIAL RETAILER PALEOCAPA VIA GIOVANNI PLANA VIA MONCALVO Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo O VIA ASIETTA VIA DELL’ARSENALE Giorgio Spezia V AI M U R AI G L OI CORSO DEGLI ABRUZZIVIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA BRICHERASIO VIA A. VOLTA V IA G IO V A N N I G IO L IT T I PIAZZA HERMADA CORSO TORINO ILLARBASSE www.rocca1794.com VIA ANDREA DORIA San Michele Arcangelo RATO OLLENZ VIA VELA VIA GIUSEPPE LUIGI LAGRANGE C O R S O P E S C H IE R A CORSO ERCASALE V I A B A R D V I A P CORSO RODOLFO MONTEVECCHIO Ospedale V I A V Via Roma, 290 VIA XX SETTEMBREPIAZZA San Giovanni Vecchio Parrocchia VIA MANFREDO FANTI CARLO PIAZZA PIAZZA IA MONF T: 011 5621467/5629260 PIAZZA V V I A I S O N Z O LAGRANGE PIAZZA Gesù Buon Pastore VIA MAGENTA FELICE BODONI Conservatorio V I A B R I S S O G N E Statale di Musica CAVOUR MARIA VIA VOLVERA "Giuseppe Verdi" Giardino Aiuola Balbo Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I VIA CUMIANA TERESA NTINO SELLA VIA MATILDE SERAO V I A C A R S O V I Politecnico di Torino A B O S S O L A S C O Chiesa di San Secondo Martire V IA G SAN MASSIMO V I A L A N C I A VIA ACCADEMIA ALBERTINA DELLA LIBERTA’

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VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun TRADITIONAL search for premium-quality ingredients with a 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. PIEDMONTESE CUISINE particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional Map G4 Cannavacciuolo Bistrot charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, Plin & Tajarin Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the a unique tasting experience featuring a 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3 staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, combination of northern and southern flavours. Le Vitel Etonné Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, The standout at this restaurant located in the after or as an accompaniment, diners can order codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella traditional desserts, including amaretto ice Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; prepared according to a traditional recipe with Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century Porto di Savona Casa Amelie cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium- quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm- 10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- 10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in Southern cuisine, welcoming atmosphere a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. In Turin, at Catullo, the ideal place for a romantic fish dinner infused with Mediterrean flavours, Southern Italian cuisine €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 blends with the relaxing surroundings of the Po river. By Giulia Minero Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes Piedmontese sushi, with raw meat very day, at Catullo, located just a short Italian influences, including “Linguine in >> Corso Moncalieri, 176 re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese Who says that the word sushi only means fish? Located in the heart of Turin, in the city’s distance from Parco del Valentino, the Crosta alla Catullo with seafood and porcini T: 011 6618336. Off Map beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of central via Mazzini, Sushi dal Maslè debunks this myth, and serves Japanese inspired carefree atmosphere of Southern mushrooms” or “Black ravioli with red www.ristorantecatullo.com Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden- E dishes using premium cuts of raw meat. Italy takes centre stage. Inside, in its Mazara del Vallo shrimp and Pachino cherry grown vegetables. A harmonious combination The restaurant’s name – in Piedmontese dialect maslè means butcher – indicates that local, contemporary dining space where elements tomatoes”. The restaurant also caters to the that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced traditional ingredients are used, and Piedmontese Fassona beef plays a key role. Minced in iron, glass and wood interact with brightly- tastes of meat lovers with main courses that from the best local producers, with a few forays Fassona beef or Brà sausage, combined with Nori seaweed and traditional Japanese sauces coloured ceramics from Ischia, customers include more elaborate dishes like “Bison Rib into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste give birth to tasty ‘Piémont Sushi®’, interpreted in Uramaki, Temaki and rolls, but also can sample a wide selection of antipasti, Eye with a reduction of Nebbiolo” and “Ratte of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Tartare, Sashimi and hot dishes seared on the grill. starters and main courses featuring the potatoes, braised veal cheek with celeriac rice” Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat Standouts include ‘Bombetta Piemontese’ with Albese and a Robiola mousse, ‘San Carlo’ best of surf and turf, with a particular focus and mouth-watering grilled meats. Catullo 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. with Vitello Tonnato and Alba Hazelnuts, ‘Ficotto’ with Bra Sausage, Tomino cheese and Fig on fish-based dishes of Mediterranean also boasts a rich selection of Neapolitan T: 011 2767661. Map E3 Mayonnaise, or seasonal dishes like ‘Cacio e Pepe’ featuring warm Pecorino cream, black inspiration. The ingredients, selected on pizzas baked according to tradition in a pepper grains and crunchy guanciale. The food is accompanied by an extensive selection a seasonal basis, are used to create pasta wood-fired oven. Diners in the mood for È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical of wines from the Piedmontese hills, and is served in a welcoming atmosphere, amidst specialties ranging from the great classics like romance can book a table in the restaurant’s Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly dim lighting, wood and stone furnishings, and an openplan kitchen. “Spaghetti alle vongole” or “Chitarrucce with outdoor area with windows overlooking the lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary Sushi dal Maslè. Via Mazzini 37/B. T: 351 8278722. Map G6. www.sushidelmasle.it lobster”, to more creative dishes resulting Po river and the illuminated Isabella Bridge, décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular from the meeting of Northern and Southern which connects the river’s two banks. contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The

30 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING DINING

Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out Pastry Shops like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s accessories and walls decorated with period Michelin-starred restaurants confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while misled by its name – features classic Piedmont the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although Casa Vicina ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish Spazio 7 it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza CAFFÈ PLATTI Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5 If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Scannabue Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. Located in the trendy San Salvario district, a social and cultural reference point for Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ the rooms of an old apothecary established in classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of has been run by renowned patissier Guido Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. LIDO VANNUCCHI T: 011 4546151. cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, © Map E7 hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth CANNAVACCIUOLO Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s GHIGO mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori BISTROT TORINO T: 011 19506840. tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. Just a This historic pastry shop, located just steps which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Established to offer diners an elegant, unique www.casavicina.com Off Map little further on, in the same street, the chef from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, experience, this restaurant highlights the has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with served with freshly whipped cream and for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for essence of the famous Neapolitan chef CONDIVIDERE an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the which sees traditional ingredients from his by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a treats. with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering homeland mixed and matched with those contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by from Piedmont. The space has been designed can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere. www.magorabin.com Map H4 generous sprinkling of icing sugar. Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui. Particular attention is paid to raw materials www.pasticceriaghigo.it 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. and to desserts that are served in a separate SPAZIO 7 Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. from one another, this is a multifunctional Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re space. Open throughout the day, it houses torino.circololettori.it/servizi/. guests can choose from an array of different Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, PASTICCERIA VENIER Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 CARIGNANO Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the and open-plan workshop in the basement plus two rooms where you can sample and At the restaurant located inside the Grand single-servings of desserts. of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by centre, is another go-to destination to start (or Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can ETHNIC CUISINE find more tha 12 types of products, ranging inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional T: 011 0897651. here after working at several of Piedmont’s its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass Hafa Storie cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef www.condividere.com Map H1 most historic restaurants, mirrors the from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in foundation’s concept: young, contemporary bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce fairly common because the city’s second largest foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the DEL CAMBIO and open to innovation. The wine list features powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, nearby region of Liguria. His menu features Established in 1757, it was among the the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, created exclusively to honour the city of Turin. the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count regions in France. and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio Particolar attention is paid to packaging. www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232. While the Piedmontese offerings are created in keeping with contemporary techniques of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Via Modane, 20. di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred T: 011 4249343. and tastes. Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo and two amaretti instead of shortcake. chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real T: 011 3797626. Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the T: 011 5170171. Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS traditions, which he reinterprets with a VINTAGE 1997 the foundations for a harmonious, productive In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm- CASA VICINA creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop 12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s that turns out approximately 20 different €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who a visit. culinary offerings are also true to tradition.

cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled Galleria Massari Iginio T: 011 19486765. Map F2 for five generations have embraced the Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and www.delcambio.it Map F4 authentic Piedmontese specialties including Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level infused with a warm, homely Provence-style ingredients. The wine list is extensive and MAGORABIN practiced for the past twenty years with Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates Just steps from the Mole, this starred traditional Piedmontese professionalism. French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. vintage trays, you can purchase traditional coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You www.vintage1997.com Map E4 forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist.

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Porto di Savona taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s topped with either sweet or savoury ingredients best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions while you wait. Make sure to try the house special of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream Signature Food glossary Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, cheese. Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www. dishes Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7. From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s include olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta T: 349 3926090. Map F4 Fassona finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 beef famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Mollìca tartare with Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3 Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here fried marrow hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, bone and spicy Gusto Madre cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials mayonnaise, Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can marinated scallops and of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted choose to have your sandwich filled with these offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and tapioca, ceviches and with numerous dough varieties, flours and or numerous other ingredients, all sourced are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve even a South American ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. interpretation of Piedmont’s these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether B Y C. Z. classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the accompanied by a carefully selected choice by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon- combined with the creativity and skill inherent in because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese 2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. time-honoured dough-making techniques, are bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon- kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar.business.site. the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy- 3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. BAGNA CAUDA of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2 to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. This typical winter specialty consists of a veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. Map F7 Oriental Daily by Kiki sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6 oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, Street Fish and chopped nuts can also be added. regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and Although this might seem strange in a city like Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives TASTING EXPERIENCE fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked pasta together. dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, the venue’s original desserts including Azuki & STREET FOOD Options on offer include fish tartare served in a it encourages conviviality, on the other, PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg Gofreria Piemonteisa corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based might find people avoiding you because you is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese Piedmontese Mixed Fry Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is reek of it! veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time- occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. honoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of to watch the chefs at work, while the other half and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Off Map the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY musetto (a pork sausage made in part from yeast-based batter, without eggs or milk, these noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. This uniquely rich local specialty of a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked PIZZA mouth-watering waffles are deliciously light and T: 389 0010612. Map F5 Piedmont consists of a combination of fried for several hours in boiling water. It is Bagna Cauda A Casa di Pulcinella liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and An informal locale which, as its name suggests, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, a side of vegetables. One of the favourite serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and by a wide selection of craft and other beers. by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the Not a dish for the faint-hearted. even has its own brotherhood. pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those VITELLO TONNATO of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and

www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold BOSCHERINO/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIOVANNI T: 011 595457. Off Map © with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, Vitello Tonnato Bakery Restaurant & Pizza egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper. far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that BONET turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can variety of classic toppings, with a few regional be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; natural culinary technique that is used to Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 LE VITEL ETONNÉ using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It Crudo fa la Pizza! preserves the softness of the dessert and Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional Crudo is an award-winning food company,

TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM facilitates the formation of a delicious crust

regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel CAZZANTI/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VALENTINO

© Bagna Cauda Bonet boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the on its surface. © renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com sourced from only the finest producers. It has now

34 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice FOOD SHOPS ITALIAN GELATO cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world. Borgiattino Alberto Marchetti In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning offers a variety of different options including Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine ice cream at various locations across the city. coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87. this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties conjure up childhood memories of only the most T: 011 542009. Map F4 from other Italian and European regions authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the including Reblochon from France and Cheddar Slow Food project, which protects small, local from Britain, accompanied by wines and other producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours Mara dei Boschi high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Its natural ice cream made from only the finest 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti ingredients without preservatives or additives, Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am- Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours Gastronomia (La) 11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5 interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- Gelateria Pepino the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon- fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice 11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San cream parlours that has been producing high- 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. quality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb- flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in- law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map Old-world flavours in a warm atmosphere Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza Caffè Al Bicerin, which gave birth to the signature drink the ‘bicerin’, is one of Turin’s oldest, Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ multi-award winning locales in the heart of the city. (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from ade from espresso, chocolate and students, Turinese ‘Signore’, politicians and Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter. Authentic delicacies of Piedmont cream, the ‘bicerin’ was created in intellectuals with numerous other delectable Other delicacies on offer include freshly Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via the Caffè Al Bicerin, which jealously specialties, including a mouth watering whipped cream and Greek yoghurt. Open Mon- M Tues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, guards its recipe. Il takes its name from the special zabaione, prepared on the spot, accompanied 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com. returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small rounded glasses without handles in which it is by whipped cream, small biscuits flavoured with Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3 artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of served. The locale in the picturesque piazza marsala, moscato, lemon, passito or black cherry Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search della Consolata opposite the Sanctuary, was Ratafia. Another must-try delicacy is the Bicerin’s Pescheria Gallina of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select established in 1763 as a shop selling drinks and cake, made from coffee and chocolate, iced with a Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and sorbets, and only became a chocolate and pastry white frosting. A visit to Al Bicerin is well worth your mercato has been in business for over a century. ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze shop in the mid-1800s. The venue probably time to soak up its old-world atmosphere. Once Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site. owed its success to the nearby church: after inside, you’ll feel that you’ve stepped back into the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a attending mass, the faithful would flock to the 1800s. Its interior is decorated with original period 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics café to indulge in a delicious ‘bicerin’ after fasting furnishings, antique mirrors and glass display can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied for many hours (until 1957, the “Eucharistic fast” cabinets showcasing chocolate like works of art. catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. required no eating or drinking from midnight and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Pastificio Defilippis. Via Lagrange, 39. T: 011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it. to mass). Today, in addition to ‘bicerin’, the Caffè >> Piazza della Consolata, 5. Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza continues to delight the palates of tourists, T: 011 4369325. bicerin.it della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2

36 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN La Drogheria AFTER DINNER Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Hiroshima Mon Amour Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide over the years it has become a reference point for choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, Italian and international artists, exhibitions and bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Lanificio San Salvatore Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where Highlights include an interesting wine list, including guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pm- classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da 6pm-2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Les Arcades THEATRES This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, Teatro Carignano a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe the place where the king went to watch plays. Dating and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a Carignano. It has a reputation for producing theatre sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4 Piano35 Your home Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in Teatro Nuovo the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to restaurant offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Dedicated to those who want to Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the © ALBERTO CHIARIGLIONE © ALBERTO taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar experience the real regional culinary tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, tradition, the typical products of the of delectable finger food. The venue offers Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it territory and recipes handed down of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open through the generations of Italian www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, families. The “Cesarine” network Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Discover a temple of mixology - spread out over 140 Italian cities Teatro Regio with over 1000 amateur chefs - has APERITIVI Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro At Centràl Cocktail Bar, tradition, research and experimentation combine daily to give life to customized become established over recent years Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The cocktails designed to reflect the tastes of even the most discerning guests. By Giulia Minero Ballantine’s with this very aim: to offer a complete Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at gastronomic experience by opening ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre the beginning of the 18th century and designed by of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably up the doors of home with lunches and f you want to spend a pleasant evening expert bartenders create bespoke cocktails >> Centràl Cocktail Bar wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic linked to several of the world’s most illustrious dinners, personalised show cooking, musicians including Arturo Toscanini, after dinner in the open air, or find a place every day that are tailored to suit customers’ Via Luigi des Ambrois, 5. drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. cooking competitions, visits to markets Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss. Today where you can sip an expertly mixed individual tastes, regardless of whether T: 011 5836620. Map G5 or local producers or catering in I Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5 it presents an exciting international program cocktail, you’re in luck. Centràl Cocktail Bar these are based on a few simple ingredients, www.centralcocktailbar.com of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues- exclusive locations. Having lunch with in the beating heart of the Savoy capital is or spur-of-the moment inspiration. Beena Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. an Italian family, with dishes prepared This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena www.teatroregio.torino.it. a stylish locale with a vibrant atmosphere, These include a variety of alcoholic or non- following the typical traditions of the where music and mixology take centre alcoholic options, enhanced with spices, (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Piazza Castello, 215. Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and T: 011 8815557. Map F3 local cuisine, tasting the wines of the stage. Sit comfortably in one of its indoor and created by balancing flavours and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked territory, is a truly unique experience! lounges, decorated with vintage and post- aromas to make your after-dinner drink, while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full And from this year live cooking courses industrial furnishings, perfected by a few or aperitivo, a unique experience. immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open and virtual appointments are available contemporary details, or outdoors, with a Make sure to combine your expertly crafted Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. beenaristoranteindiano.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 on the cesarine.com website, in both view over Piazza Carlina, where even the cocktail with one of the venue’s delightful Italian and English, so you can continue most discerning customers will appreciate culinary offerings including crudités served to learn family recipes and all the their wide selection of beers and Italian with a dill-flavoured Greek yoghurt dip Among LA DROGHERIA's signature cocktails, “La Torre” (Tiki style) and “Il Sole” secrets of traditional cuisine. and international wines. And when it comes or platters of charcuterie and cheeses (American style) propose a journey into the www.cesarine.com to cocktails, forget the concept of a fixed accompanied by traditional Torinese

38 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Off Map being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The best and most innovative sports museums. State-of Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin- the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudo- Basilica di Superga public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon- Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am- needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s 7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Inside, deliverance from the French siege of 1706, (unless matchday). The ticket office closes one hours a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/ up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree according to the style of the era with a colonnaded it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153. observation platform at the top of the cupola. The portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ T: 011 4530486. Off Map view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the Lingotto absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still reservation from Monday to Friday, and without more stunning when viewed from the top of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events hosted the National Museum of Cinema. apartments, you can walk around the building to including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car Sala Cignaroli or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map The undeniable charm of objets d’art Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte The exhibition itinerary at Turin’s Museum of Decorative Arts holds myriad surprises in store, including a collection Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of of porcelain by Meissen and a boudoir that belonged to Christian Dior… By Elena Peverata Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the n unmissable house-museum, taste, a combination of a historic home and >> Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the a journey through time and 18th an exhibition of furnishings and objet Museo di Arti Decorative. Via Po, 55 latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Acentury Turin. Housed in a historic d’art from the 18th and 19th centuries. The www.fondazioneaccorsi-ometto.it Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, 17th century ‘palazzo’ on via Po, in addition building’s 27 rooms host more than 3,000 Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa to showcasing a fabulous array of decorative works of art, including paintings, ceramics, Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Sala degli Specchi Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on arts, the Accorsi-Ometto museum hosts furniture, crystals and tapestries, only part Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. temporary exhibitions. Formerly the of which are preserved in museum-like Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. headquarters of the Antonian Order, the display cases. This crowded menagerie of Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Off Map

entire building was bought by renowned precious objects and furnishings features ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ENRICOALIBERTI Turin antique dealer Pietro Accorsi in 1956. several masterpieces, including a collection GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Following the death of its owner, this historic of furniture by 18th century cabinet maker Contemporanea PALAZZO CARIGNANO building was renovated by his pupil Giulio Pietro Piffetti, and a snuff box decorated with GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Ometto, and converted into a museum a portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, a beautiful 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout showcasing the extraordinary items collected gift that was created on the occasion of his Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento by Accorsi over the years. The museum was marriage to Marie Louise of Austria in 1810. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original decorated based on choices and criteria Another unmissable highlight is the ‘Christian installations, videos and photos, plus one of the parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it that reflected the original owner’s personal Dior Boudoir’. most important collections of video art. In addition

40 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the House of Savoy), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino extraordinary Egypt (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map founded in 1824, the know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

42 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass Malpensa this information to the emergency services. Airport OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN

FABIO LAMANNA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM FABIO TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it PH © www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Getting around Turin ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Special Tours own car and staying in a hotel in the central From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF T Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Hallmark red double-decker bus offering Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 and departure only, filling out a form at the each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching hotel reception (ask your concierge for more 3 routes: 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000. Line A to explore the city center and the hill; architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. information). GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. In the same way it is possible to reach paid Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in village and the medieval fortress; 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the same parking lot with the request for transit Line B to access various sites including the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver authorization no later than 11am. Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost Tourist Information the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram can be collected after 48 hours from the time Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm point: at any bus stop. Assistance at Ticket Point located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci and 2pm-6pm. City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Via Po). 8 language commentary. and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 Piazza Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. minutes on buses, trams or metro. T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm. available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin

44 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

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Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I V IA A NDREA SANSOV V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

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C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI VI C C A R D O A R N RI V I A V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

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VIA LEONARDO FEA

STRADAALTESSANO VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA

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S C A V I A A S S I S I V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ C O R S O T O S C A N A V VIA SARGIO I A B E R N A R D I N O L CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA U I N I LUIGI

V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI FRASSATI VIA RENATO MARTORELLI A VIA VEROLENGO VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI Piazza Chiesa della Salute CIN PIAZZA VIA CERESOLE VI VIA VEROLENGO V AS I T R A D E L A GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA Parco della Conuenza CORSO VENEZIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE VIA BOCCARDO VIA MONTE ROSA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA SANTHIA’ CORSO VENEZIA VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Peccei A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENALEVIA GIAMBATTISTA AN PERGOLESI S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O

C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T VIA FRANCECO CIGNA

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VIA SAN DONATO CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI D O V A VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA VIA VITTORIO ANDREIS Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA AUSILIATRICE Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA Torino Caselle VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Juventus VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI 14 Reggia di Nostra Signora 12 Milano Malpensa GIAMPIETRO EYRON VIA GIACOMO MEDICI del Suragio Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA Stadium  (TRN) Airport Piccola Casa della (MXP) Airport

Venaria  Chiesa CHIRONI VIA NICOLA FABRIZI Divina Provvidenza VIA BURONZO PIAZZA Cottolengo L U N G O D O R A FR I E N Z E VIA Madonna VIA GIACOMO MEDICI BENEDETTO VITTORIO ASINARI DI BERNEZZO PIAZZA VIA CARLO TENIVELLI VIA BORGOMANERO VIA DELLA Divina Provvidenza VIA V.ASINARI DI BERNEZZO VIA ROASIO RISORGIMENTO MIGLIARA V I A A N C O N A E H C R A M O S R O C VIA GIOVANNI FORCA Chiesa COTTOLENGO SA PI AV I PARELLA VIA ASCANIO SOBRERO VIA MODENA 1 A I R A P I R A R OD 1 VIA SOSTEGNO Immacolata Concezione CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A S . C H I A R A VIA San Donato VIA SAN DONATO Chiesa C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A A Chiesa Parr. S. Anna Turin Map AMEDEO PEYRON VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Chiesa Evangelica Valdese Sacra Famiglia Cimitero Monumentale di Torino VIA BIANZÈ CORSO GIULIO CESAREPRIOCC PIAZZA VIA L. ARIOSTO . VIA CARLO MICHELE BUSCALIONI V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I COLLEGNO GIACINTO VIA PEYRON . D C O RNSO O V A RA VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE C L U VIA G. MAMELI V I A F O G G I A

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VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi ESSENTIALS

Fast train network from Turin Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash Your personal travel assistant now in the PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website). Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is only pay €5 for your ticket. Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- FREE FREE HOTSPOT T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and www.wetaxi. CALLS INTERNET WIFI depart from there. Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. fee for night or holiday travel). www.trenitalia.com. HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS www.italotreno.it. city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by Airports car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. Information desk T: 02 232323. TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - www.milanomalpensa-airport.com (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta

minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM motorway junction. The junction is connected Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also

directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. PH © Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia www.aeroportoditorino.it 5 STARS Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre www.aeroportoditorino.it of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. Map E4-5 Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 • Connections to the airport www.aeroporto.cuneo.it Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta • Connections to the airport • Map F5 Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in 4 STARS Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 connection from Turin with departure and arrival Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays). ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Best Western Crystal Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • Map E6 Best Western Hotel Luxor – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD • Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Diplomatic – Via Cernaia, 42 • Map C3 Double Tree by Hilton Turin Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map Lancaster Torino – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map J Hotel – Via Traves, 40 • Off Map Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15 • Map G5 Nh Torino Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104 • Map B4 Nh Torino Lingotto Congress – Via Nizza, 262 • Off Map Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Via Porta Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3

RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, © 338/34 • Off Map This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249 • Off Map offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 For more information www.turismotorino.org Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • Off Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. www.manetmobile.com DISCOVER MORE [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I NOVEMBER 2020 DISCOVER MORE