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Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Many thanks to the travellers who used Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson the last edition and wrote to us with help- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the ful hints, useful advice and interesting Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and anecdotes: Adrienne Nielsen, Max Dickinson, Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Stella Italiano, Yeonghoon Kim Cover photograph: Hand of Constantine the Great statue, Capitoline Museums, Rome. Stefano Politi WRITER THANKS Markovina / AWL © Catherine Le Nevez Merci mille fois first and foremost to Julian, and to everyone throughout Western Europe who has provided insights and inspiration over the years. Huge thanks also to Destination Editor Daniel Fahey and everyone at LP. As ever, a heartfelt merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu for sustaining my love of Western Europe. 688
Product Editors Anne Mason, Gabbi Stefanos, Saralinda THIS BOOK Jenna Myers Turner, Fionnuala Twomey This 13th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographer Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Western Europe guide- Mark Griffiths Valentina Kremenchutskaya book was curated by Oliver Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Cover Researcher
BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Berry, Gregor Clark, Marc Assisting Editors Janet Naomi Parker Di Duca, Duncan Garwood, Austin, Sarah Bailey, Michelle Thanks to Cheree Broughton, Catherine Le Nevez, Korina Bennett, Kate Chapman, Katie Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Miller, John Noble, Andrea Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Kate Chapman, Neill Coen, Schulte-Peevers, Andy Sym- Bruce Evans, Carly Hall, Trent Daniel Corbett, Joel Cotterell, ington, Donna Wheeler, Neil Holden, Kate James, Amy Shona Gray, Jane Grisman, Wilson and Karla Zimmerman. Karafin, Kellie Langdon, Sam Andi Jones, Ivan Kovanovic, This guidebook was produced Forge, Jodie Martire, Anne Catherine Naghten, Claire by the following: Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Destination Editors Daniel Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Power, Rachel Rawling, Kirsten Fahey, Gemma Graham, Lau- Charlotte Orr, Sarah Reid, Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Ellie ren Keith, James Smart, Tom Simpson, Dora Whitaker Stainer, Anna Tyler ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 689
Index
A aquariums shopping 345 Basque Country 600-6 Aachen 320-1 L’Aquàrium (Barcelona) sights 338-42 Bastia 253-4 accommodation 668-9, see 592 tours 342 Bastille Day 30 also individual locations Musée Océanographique travel to/from 346 Bath 20, 142-5, 144, 20 de Monaco 251 Acropolis 338, 18 travel within 347 Bavaria 285-302 Oceanário 531 activities 28-31, 669-70, see ATMs 672, 673 Bayeux 208-9 Oceanogràfic 609 also individual activities, Austria 38-71, 40 Bayeux Tapestry 208 Aragón 600-6 individual locations accommodation 38, 68 beaches 26 Aran Islands 408-9 Aegina 344 business hours 68-9 Andalucía 628 Arc de Triomphe 188 Aeolian Islands 487 costs 68, 70 Baleal 547 archaeological sites, see Agia Roumeli 370 food 38, 70 Biarritz 232 also historic sites Agrigento 496-7 highlights 40 Cascais 541 Arènes 242 air travel itineraries 39 D-Day beaches 209 Conimbriga 551 to/from Western Europe money 68 Ibiza 616 676 Herculaneum 485 telephone services 69 Kefallonia 380 within Western Europe Inishmór 408 tourist information 69 Kos 372 676-7 Les Arènes 236 transport to/from 69-70 Lefkada 370, Aix-en-Provence 240-1 Palatino 422 27 travel within 70-1 Lagos 544 Ajaccio 252-3 Parco Archeologico della Avebury 141 Mallorca 614 Alfama 19, 530, 19 Neapolis 495 Avignon 241-3 Algarve, the 542-6 Pompeii 485 Menorca 613 Ávila 583 Mykonos 355 Alhambra 15, 623, 626, 15 Rock of Cashel 399 Naxos 359 Alsace 214-15 Roman Forum 422, 12 Normandy 209 Amalfi 488-9 Stonehenge 142 B Playa de la Concha 602 Amalfi Coast 488-90 Templo Romano 546 B&Bs 668 Rhodes 369, 370 Amboise 217-18 Théâtre Romain 223 Bacharach 310-11 Samos 374-5 Amsterdam 17, 503-12, 506- Valley of the Temples Baden-Baden 305 Santorini 361 7, 508, 17 495-6 Baixa 530 accommodation 508-9 Villa Jovis 486 Balearic Islands 611-16 Skiathos 377 drinking & nightlife 510-11 architecture 26-7 Bamberg 300-1 St-Tropez 249 Valencia 609 entertainment 511 Casa Batlló 590 Barcelona 585-98, 586-7, food 509-10 Ciudad de las Artes y las 590-1 Viana do Castelo 559 shopping 511-12 Ciencias 608 accommodation 592-3 Beaune 220-1 sights 503-7 La Pedrera 589 drinking & nightlife 595-6 beer 25, 15, see also breweries tourist information 512 Royal Crescent (Bath) 143 entertainment 596 Beilstein 313 tours 507 Arles 242 festivals & events 592 Belém 530 travel to/from 512 art 26 food 593-5 Belfast 409-14, travel within 512 art galleries, see museums shopping 596 412 & galleries Andalucía 616-30 sights 585-92 Belgium 72-107, 74 Assisi 478-9 Andorra 597 tourist information 597 accommodation 72, 104 Asturias 606-8 activities 104 Antwerp 85-9, 86 travel to/from 597 Athens 337-47, 340-1 travel within 597-8 business hours 104 accommodation 342-3 Bari 490 climate 72 drinking 345 bars 26 costs 104 entertainment 345 food 18, 72, 104, 106 Map Pages 000 Basel 658-9 festivals & events 342 highlights 74 Photo Pages 000 basilicas, see churches & food 343-5 cathedrals itineraries 76 690 public holidays 104 Jopenkerk 513 Camp Nou 596 Hampton Court Palace telephone services 104 MBC 227 campervan travel 678 124 tourist information 104-5 Rathaus Bräuerei 651 camping 668 Het Steen 85 travel to/from 105 Rising Sons 401 Cannes 248-9 Hofburg (Innsbruck) 63 travel within 106-7 Stella Artois brewery 84 Cantabria 606-8 Hofburg (Vienna) 39, 13 visas 105 bridges Canterbury 140-1 Kaiserappartements 39
INDEX INDEX Berchtesgaden 293-4 Alte Brücke (Heidelberg) Capitoline Museum 422-3 Kilkenny Castle 397 Berlenga Grande 547 304 Capri 484-6 Munich Residenz 285, Berlin 261-77, 264, 266, Carrick-a-Rede Rope car travel, see driving 286 B-C 270-1, 272-3 Bridge 414-15, 17 Carcassonne 235 Palace of Holyroodhouse 162 accommodation 270-3 Erasmusburg 518 Cardiff 159-60 drinking & nightlife Kapellbrücke 650-1 Carnevale (Venice) 28, 457 Palácio Nacional da Pena 540 275-6 Krämerbrücke 284 Cascais 541-2 entertainment 276-7 Pont du Gard 237 Palácio Nacional de cash 672-3 Sintra 540 food 273-5 Ponte dei Sospiri 453 Castilla y León 579-83 Palacio Real 568 itineraries 265 Ponte Vasco da Gama Castilla-La Mancha 584-5 534 Palais des Ducs et des sights 261-9 Castle Howard 155-6 Pont St-Bénezet 242 États de Bourgogne tourist information 276 castles, fortresses & 219 Spreuerbrücke 650 tours 269-70 palaces 24 Palais des Papes 241-2 Steinerne Brücke 310 travel to/from 276 Alcázar 616, 618 Palamidi Fortress 348 Tower Bridge 113 travel within 277 Alhambra 15, 623, Palazzo dei Normanni Berlin Wall 14, 267, 268, 14 Britain 108-79, 110-11, see 626, 15 491 also England, Scotland, Bern 648-9 Aljafería 600-1 Wales Palazzo dei Priori 477 Bernkastel-Kues 313 Binnenhof 515 accommodation 174 Palazzo Barberini 424 Biarritz 232-3 Blarney Castle 402 activities 174-5 Palazzo Ducale 455 bicycle travel, see cycling Bock Casemates 100 climate 108 Palazzo Petti 469 Big Ben 113 Burg Eltz 314 costs 174, 176 Palazzo Reale 442 Bilbao 604-6 Castel Sant’Angelo 428 drinking 177 Palazzo Vecchio 468 Black Forest 305-6 Castell de Montjuïc 592 food 177 Residenz (Salzburg) 57 Blarney Castle 402 Castello di Miramare 462 highlights 110-11 Royal Palace Blenheim Palace 148 Castelo de São Jorge (Amsterdam) 503 holidays 175 Blois 215-17 530 Schloss Ambras 63 money 175 boat travel 669, 676, see Castelo dos Mouros 540 Schloss Belvedere 43 travel to/from 176 Castelo Silves 545 also ferries Schloss Charlottenburg travel within 178-9 Bologna 462-4 Castle Howard 468 269 British Museum 121 Bonifacio 254 Château d’Azay- Schloss Eggenberg 54 Brittany 210-11 le-Rideau 218-19 Bonn 318 Schloss Hellbrunn 61 Bruges 92-6, 94 Château de Bouillon 99 Book of Kells 388 Schloss Neuschwanstein Bordeaux 230-2 Brussels 73-84, 78 Château de Chambord 295 Bouillon 99 accommodation 77-80 217 Schloss Sanssouci 274 Braga 559-60 drinking & nightlife 81-2 Château de Chenonceau Schloss Schönbrunn 43 Brandenburger Tor 261 entertainment 82 218 Stirling Castle 167 Braubach 312 food 80-1 Château de Cheverny Tower of London 113 Bregenzerwald 66 shopping 82-3 217 Windsor Castle 139-40 Bremen 329-35 sights 73-7 Château de Chillon 645 Zwinger 277-8 breweries tours 77 Château de St-Malo 211 Catacombes, Les (Paris) Augustiner Bräustübl 60 Buçaco Forest 552 Château de Versailles 185 204-5 Beck’s Brewery 330 budget 23 Catalonia 585-600 Château Royal de Blois Brouwerij ‘t IJ 510 Burano 455 cathedrals, see churches & 215-16 Cantillon Brewery 76 Burgos 581 cathedrals Conwy Castle 160 Franciscan Well Burgundy 219-26 Causeway Coast 17, 414- Dunvegan Castle 173 Brewery 401 bus travel 678 15, 17 Edinburgh Castle 161 Guiness Storehouse 389 tours 681 cave art 229 Festung Heineken Experience caves Hohensalzburg 57 506 Dachstein C Fortaleza (Peniche) 548 Rieseneishöhle Cáceres 630 Fortaleza de Sagres 545 (Innsbruck) 62 Map Pages 000 cafes 26 Fort du Petit Bé 211 Grotta Azzurra (Capri) Photo Pages 000 Cambridge 151-3 Gravensteen 89, 25 486 691 Grotta dello Smeraldo Cappella degli Scrovegni Pantheon 423 D-Day beaches (France) (Amalfi Coast) 489-90 453 Sainte-Chapelle 185 209 Lascaux Caves 229 Cappella Palatina 491 Sé (Braga) 559-60 Delfshaven 519 cell phones 674-5 Cappella Sansevero 479 Sé (Évora) 547 Delft 516-18 Cézanne, Paul 241 Catedral de Burgos 581 Sé (Porto) 553 Delos 358 Chamonix 21, 226-8, 21 Catedral de León 581 Sé de Lisboa 530 Delphi 351
Champagne 21, 211-14, 21 Catedral Nueva 579 Sé Velha 550-1 Den Haag (The Hague) INDEX Chartres 205 Catedral Vieja 579-80 St Canice’s Cathedral 514-16 Château d’Azay-le-Rideau Cathédrale de Notre 397 Derry 415-16
Dame (Lausanne) St Patrick’s Cathedral Diekirch 103 C-E 218-19 Château de Chambord 217 644-65 389-91 Dijon 219-20 Château de Chenonceau Cathédrale Notre Dame St Paul’s Cathedral 116 discount cards 670 218 (Chartres) 205 St Peter’s Basilica 425 Dingle 409 Château de Cheverny 217 Cathédrale Notre Dame St-Baafskathedraal 89 diving (Reims) 212 Château de Versailles Stephansdom 42 Cinque Terre 443 204-5 Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris 185 Westminster Abbey 112 Lagos 544 Chemin de la Corniche Cathédrale Notre-Dame York Minster 153 Peniche 548 100, 18 (Strasbourg) 214 Cinque Terre 443-4 Dodecanese 368-73 Chester 156-7 Cathédrale St-André 230 Clervaux 103 DomQuartier (Salzburg) 57 children, travel with 670 Cathédrale St-Corentin Cliffs of Moher 405 Dordogne 228-30 Christmas markets 31, 299 210 climate 22, 28-31, see also Douro 558 Frankfurt-am-Main 308 Cathédrale St-Jean 222 individual countries Dresden 277-80 Nuremberg 299 Cattedrale di Palermo coastal roads 247 driving 678-80 Vienna 46 491 Cochem 312-13 drugs 672 churches & cathedrals Cattedrale di San Coimbra 550-2 Dublin 21, 388-97, 393-4, Aachener Dom 320 Giovanni Battista 445 Cologne 315-18, 316 390 Basílica de Santa Maria Cattedrale di San Colosseum (Rome) 422, 7 accommodation 391-3 del Mar 588 Lorenzo 442, 477 Conimbriga 551 drinking & nightlife Basilica di San Cattedrale di San Connemara 408 394-5 Clemente 431 Martino 474-5 consulates 671 entertainment 395-6 Basilica di San Chapelle Impériale 232 convents, see monasteries sights 388-91 Francesco 479 Chiesa del Santissimo & convents tourist information 396 Basilica di San Giovanni Redentore 455 Conwy Castle 160 travel to/from 396 in Laterano 429 Chiesa di San Francesco Basilica di San Marco 487-8 Córdoba 620-3 travel within 396-7 452 Dom (Salzburg) 57 Corfu 378-85 Dune du Pilat 231 Basilica di San Petronio Duomo (Florence) 464 Cork 398-402, 400 Düsseldorf 318-20 462-3 Duomo (Milan) 446 corniches 247 Basilica di San Pietro in Duomo (Naples) 481 Corniglia 444 Vincoli 429 Cornwall 159 E Duomo (Pisa) 472 Edinburgh 161-6, Basilica di Santa Chiara Corsica 251-4 164-5 479 Duomo (Siena) 475-6 Edinburgh Castle 163 Église St-Germain des costs 23, see also Basilica di Santa Maria individual countries Edinburgh Festival della Salute 455 Prés 184 Fringe 163 Côte d’Azur 243-51 Basilica di Santa Maria Glasgow Cathedral 167 Edinburgh International Côte d’Or 221 in Trastevere 429 Hofkirche 63 Festival 30, 163 Cotswolds 149 Basilica di Santa Maria I Frari 455 Eiffel Tower 11, 181, 11 credit cards 673 Maggiore 428-9 Igreja da Misericórdia Eisenach 283 543 Crete 363-8, Basilica di Sant’Anasta- 364-5 Eisenstadt 64 sia 452 Igreja de Santa Maria cruises 681 electricity 671 Basilica di Santo Stefano 549 currency 22, 672 embassies 671 463 Igreja de São Francisco customs regulations 670 emergencies 23 Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 546, 553 Cyclades 355-63 Encierro, The (Running of 189 King’s College Chapel cycling 669, 677 151 the Bulls) 605 Basilique Notre Dame de tours 681 Fourvière 222 La Catedral (Barcelona) England 109-58 Basilique St-Rémi 212 585 itineraries 109 Basilique St-Sernin 234 La Martorana 491 D Épernay 213-14 Beinhaus 62 La Sagrada Família 15, Dalí, Salvador 600 Epidavros 349 Canterbury Cathedral 589, 15 dangers, see safe travel Erfurt 284-5 140 Onze-Lieve- Danube Valley 51-3 Eton 139-40 Vrouwekathedraal 85 692 events, see festivals & Frankfurt-am-Main 308-9, travel to/from 382-3 Hohe Tauern National events 310-11 travel within 383-5 Park 67 Évora 546-7 Freiburg im Breisgau 306-8 Greenwich 120-21 Holland, see Netherlands Extremadura 630-1 French Alps 226-8 Grindelwald 652-3 Hora Sfakion 370 French Riviera 243-51 Grossglockner 67 horse riding 561 F Freud, Sigmund 43 Grotte de Lascaux 229 hostels 668-9 INDEX INDEX Faro 542-6 Füssen 295-6 Gruyères 646 Humboldt Forum 269 ferries 678 Hydra 344 to/from Western Europe G
E-I 676 H galleries, see museums & Haarlem 512-13 I
within Western Europe galleries 678 Hadrian’s Wall 159 Ibiza 614-16 Galicia 606-8 festivals & events 28-31 Hague, The (Den Haag) Île de la Cité 185 Carnival (Cologne) 315 Galway 405-8, 406 514-16 Île du Grand Bé 211 Edinburgh 163 Game of Thrones tours 414 Halki 359 Île St-Louis 185 Las Fallas de San José Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hallstatt 61-2 Îles de Lérins 248 611 292-3 Hamburg 321-8, 322-3 Îles Lavezzi 254 Notting Hill Carnival 125 gay travellers 671 Hampton Court Palace 124 Inishmór 408 Oktoberfest 15, 289 Britain 133, 175 Hampstead 120 Innsbruck 62-6 Running of the Bulls France 201, 256 Hania 366-8 insurance 671-2 (Pamplona) 605 Germany 275, 290, 332 Harry Potter 140 Interlaken 651-2 SanFermines 605 Italy 498 health 671 internet access 672 Flanders 84-98 Spain 632 Heidelberg 304-5 internet resources 23, 668 Fira 361 Geneva 639-44, 642 Heiligenblut 67 Inverness 171-2 Florence 465-73, 466, 14 Genoa 441-3 Herculaneum 485 Ionian Islands 378-81 accommodation 469-70 Germany 260-335, 262-3 hiking 669-70 Iraklio 363-6 drinking & nightlife 471 climate 260 Cinque Terre 443 Ireland 386-419, 387 entertainment 471-2 costs 332, 334 Innsbruck 63 accommodation 416-17 food 470-1 drinking & nightlife 333 Italy 498 activities 417 sights 465-9 food 333 Kitzbühel 66 business hours 418 tourist information 472 highlights 262-3 Parque Nacional da climate 386 travel to/from 472-3 history 335 Peneda-Gerês 560-1 costs 417 travel within 473 itineraries 261 Sagres 546 drinking 386 food 24-5, see also travel to/from 333 historic buildings food 386, 416 individual countries travel within 333-5 Capilla Real 623 highlights 387 football Ghent 89-92, 90 Houses of Parliament itineraries 389 Spain 596 Giant’s Causeway (Ireland) (London) 112 money 417 Portugal 538 414-15 La Lonja 609 public holidays 418 fortresses, see castles, Gimmelwald 654 Old Royal Naval College fortresses & palaces telephone services 418 Girona 598 121 France 180-259, 182 travel to/from 418-19 Giverny 205 Real Mary King’s Close accommodation 180, 161 travel within 419 Glasgow 166-9, 168-9 255 Roman Baths (Bath) visas 418 Glastonbury 147 activities 256 142-3 islands Glastonbury Festival 30 business hours 256-7 Royal Observatory 121 Aeolian Islands 487 Glen Coe 159 climate 180 Shakespeare 149, 150 Aran Islands 408-9 Glendalough 409 costs 255 Shakespeare’s Globe 116 Balearic Islands 611-16 food 255, 256 Granada 623-7, 624-5 Universidad Civil 579 Capri 486-7 highlights 182 Grasmere 158 historic sites 24, see also Corfu 378-85 itineraries 181 Graubünden 661-2 archaeological sites Corsica 251-4 money 256 Graz 53-5 Colosseum 422, 17 Crete 363-8, 364-5 public holidays 257 Greece 18, 336-85, 337 Derrynane National Cyclades 355-63 telephone services 257 accommodation 381 Historic Park 404 Dodecanese 368-73 travel to/from 257-8 climate 336 Óbidos Castelo, Walls & Ibiza 614-16 travel within 258-9 costs 381, 383 Aqueduct 548 Île de la Cité 185 visas 257 ferry routes 385, 385 Roman Arena (Verona) Île du Grand Bé 211 452 food 382 Île St-Louis 185 Teatro Greco 493 highlights 337 Îles de Lérins 248 hitching 680 Map Pages 000 history 350 Îles Lavezzi 254 Hofburg (Vienna) 39, Photo Pages 000 itineraries 338 13 Inishmor 408 693 Ionian Islands 378-81 Kilkenny 397-8 tours 534 markets, see also Isle of Skye 173-9 Killarney 402-3 travel to/from 539 Christmas markets Ithaki 380 Kinsale 409 travel within 539 Albert Cuypmarkt 505 Kefallonia 380 Kitzbühel 66 Liverpool 159 Beaune Food Market 220-1 Lefkada 380, 27 Klagenfurt 56 Locarno 659-60 Broadway Market 131 Lesvos (Mytilini) 375-7 Knights of St John 369 Loch Lomond 170-1
Camden Market 131 INDEX Mallorca 612-14 Knossos 366 Loch Ness 172 Columbia Road Flower Menorca 613 Koblenz 312 Loire Valley 215-19 Market 131 Mykonos 355-8, Kos 372-4 London 11, 109-39, 112, 356 El Rastro 577 Santorini 17, 360-3, Krems an der Donau 51-2 114-15, 118-19, 122-3, I-M English Market 399
Krimml Falls 65 126 17 ,361 Fischmark 321-2 Skiathos 377-8 accommodation 125-8 Mercado Central 609 Isle of Skye 173-9 drinking & nightlife 131-4 L entertainment 134-6 Mercat de la Boqueria Italian lakes district 451-2 La Sagrada Família 15, 585 festivals & events 124-5 Italy 420-501, 421 589, 15 Mercato di Ballarò 491 food 128-31 accommodation 497-8 Lago di Como 451 Naschmarkt 47 shopping 136-9 architecture 465 Lago di Garda 451-2 Old Spitalfields sights 112-24 business hours 499 Lago Maggiore 451 Market 131 tourist information 137 climate 420 Lagos 544 Place du Châtelain tours 124 costs 498 Lake District National Park Market 83 food 420, 496, 498 157-8 travel to/from 137 Place du Jeu-de-Balle highlights 421 Lake Geneva 644-6 travel within 138-9 Flea Market 83 history 441 Languedoc-Roussillon Londonderry 415-16 Porta Portese Market itineraries 422 233-7 London Eye 117 438 money 498-9 Lapa 531 Lorraine 214-5 Portobello Road Market 131 public holidays 499 Las Alpujarras 630 Loutro 370 Lascaux Caves 229 Louvre Museum 185-8 Sarlat-La-Canéda safe travel 499 markets 228 Lausanne 644-5 Lübeck 328-9 telephone services 499 Sunday UpMarket 131 Leaning Tower of Pisa 472 Lucca 473-4 travel to/from 499-501 Marseille 237-40 Lecce 487 Lucerne 649-51 travel within 501 Matera 487 Lefkada 380, 27 Lugano 660-1 visas 499 Matisse, Henri 244-5 Ithaki 380 legal matters 672 Luso 552 Matterhorn 15, 646-7, 15 Leiden 513-14 Luxembourg 18, 99-103, 74 itineraries 32-6, 32, 33, measures 675 35, 36 Leipzig 280-2 Luxembourg City 99-103, Mechelen 84 León 581 100 Meissen 280 Les Calanques 239 Lyon 221-6, 222 J Melk 52 lesbian travellers 671 jamón 629 Menorca 613 Britain 133, 175 Jewish heritage, see also M Meteora 351-2 synagogues France 201, 256 Maastricht 523-7 Milan 446-50, 448 Germany 275, 290, 332 Bergen-Belsen 327 Mackintosh, Charles Mithymna 376-7 Greece 375 Rennie 171 Córdoba 622 mobile phones 674-5 Italy 498 Madame Tussauds 113 Holocaust Memorial Molyvos 376-7 (Berlin) 261, 264 Spain 632 Madrid 565-79, 570-1, Monaco 250-1 Jüdisches Museum 268 Lesvos (Mytilini) 375-7 574-5 monasteries & convents KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau Leuven 84 accommodation 569 Certosa e Museo di San 292 libraries 145-79 drinking & nightlife 573-7 Martino 479 Sachsenhausen 278 Liechtenstein 659 entertainment 577 Convento de Cristo 549 Jungfraujoch 653 Lille 206-8 festivals & events 568 Couvent des Jacobins Lindos 369 food 572-3 234 K Linz 52-3 safe travel 578 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos kayaking Lisbon 530-9, 532 shopping 577-9 530 Ketallonia 380 accommodation 534-6 sights 565-8 Stift Nonnberg 57 Lagos 544 drinking & nightlife tourist information 578 Monet, Claude 205 Parque Nacional da 537-8 travel to/from 578 money 22, 23, 670, 672-4 Peneda-Gerês 561 entertainment 538 travel within 578-9 Moni Arkadiou 368 Kefallonia 380 food 536-7 Málaga 627-30 Mons 98-9 Keswick 158 sights 530-4 Mallorca 612-14 Monte Carlo 250 Kew Gardens (London) tourist information 539 Manarola 444 Monterosso 443-4 121, 124 694 Montreux 645 Goldenes Dachl Museum Musée du Quai Branly Museu Municipal de Mont St-Michel 209-10 63 181 Arqueologia (Silves) Moselle Valley 103, 312-13 Groeningemuseum 93 Musée Granet 240 545 motorcycle travel 680-1 Haus der Musik 43 Musée Horta 76 Museu Nacional d’Art Historium 92 Musée Magritte 73 de Catalunya (MNAC) Mozart, Wolfgang 591-2 Amadeus 57 Imperial War Museum Musée Masséna 245 Museu Nacional de Arte INDEX INDEX 117 Mt Etna 495 Musée Matisse 244-5 Antiga 531 In Flanders Fields 96 Mt Olympus 351 Musée National Picasso Museu Nacional de Mt Pilatus 650 Kaiserliche 189 Machado de Castro Schatzkammer 39 M Mt Vesuvius 485 Musée Océanographique 550 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & de Monaco 251 Munich 16, 285-92, 286-7 Museu Nacional do Museum 166 Musée Rodin 184 Murano 455 Azulejo 531 Kerry Bog Village Musées Royaux des Mürren 654 Museu Nacional Soares Museum 404 Beaux-Arts 73 Museo del Prado 568 dos Reis 554 Kilmainham Gaol 21, 389 Musei di Strada Nuova Museu Picasso 588 museums & galleries Kunsthaus Graz 54 442 Anne Frank Huis 503 Museum Boijmans van Kunsthistorisches Museo Archeologico Na- Beuningen 518 Ars Electronica Center Museum 42 zionale (Naples) 479 53 Museum der Moderne La Cité du Vin 230 Museo Archeologico (Salzburg) 58 Atelier Cézanne 241 Lentos 53 Paolo Orsi 495 Museum het Rem- British Museum 121 Leopold Museum 42-3 Museo Arqueológico brandthuis 506-7 Capitoline Museums Louvre-Lens 206 Nacional 568 Museum of Islamic 422-3 Madame Tussauds 113 Museo Civico (Siena) Art 342 Casa das Histórias Paula 475 Maison Bonaparte 252 MuseumsQuartier 42 Rego 541 Museo Correale 487 Maison de la Magie 216 National Craft Gallery Centre Pompidou 188-9 Museo de Bellas Artes MAS 87 (Kilkenny) 397 Centre Pompidou-Metz 604 Mauritshuis 515 National Gallery (Dublin) 206 Museo del Bargello 468 389 Centro de Arte Moderna Memorial Museum Museo del Novecento Passchendaele 1917 97 National Gallery (Lisbon) 531 446 (London) 113 MIM 73 Centro de Arte Reina Museo del Prado 565 National Maritime Mons Memorial Sofía 565 Museo e Galleria Borgh- Museum 121 Museum 98 Chester Beatty Library ese 432 National Museum of Mozarts Geburtshaus 57 389 Museo Egizio 445 Ireland 389 Mozart-Wohnhaus 57-8 Citadelle de St-Tropez Museo Goya Colección National Museum of 249 MSK 89 Ibercaja 601 Scotland 161-2 Cité de l’Espace 234 MUMOK 42 Museo Guggenheim National Portrait Gallery Cité de l’Océan 232 Museale Santa Maria Bilbao 604 (London) 113 Crawford Municipal Art della Scala 475 Museo Nazionale della Natural History Museum Gallery 399 Musée d’Art Moderne, Scienza e della 117 Cutty Sark 121 d’Art Contemporain et Tecnologia 447 Neue Galerie Graz 54 d’Art Brut - LaM 206 Deutsches Museo Nazionale Neues Museum 265 Musée d’Art Moderne et Auswandererhaus 329 dell’Automobile 445 Núcleo Islâmico 543 East Side Gallery 268, 14 d’Art Contemporain Museo Nazionale Etrusco 244 Palais des Beaux Arts Fundació Joan Miró 592 di Villa Giulia 432 206 Musée Départemental Galleria degli Uffizi 465 Museo Nazionale Palais du Tau 212 Breton 210 Romano: Palazzo Galleria dell’Accademia Musée des Augustins Massimo alle Terme Palazzo Barberini 424-5 468 233 428 Palazzo Ducale 452 Galleria Doria Pamphilj Musée des Beaux-Arts Museo Thyssen- Palazzo Pitti 4698Pala- 423 (Bordeaux) 230 Bornemisza 565 zzo Reale di Galleria Nazionale Musée des Beaux-Arts Museu Calouste Capodimonte 480 dell’Umbria 477 (Dijon) 219 Gulbenkian 530-1 Palazzo Vecchio 465 Gallerie dell’Accademia Musée des Beaux-Arts Museu Colecção Berardo Pavilhão do 4553 (Lyon) 223 530 Conhecimento 531 Galway City Museum Musée des Civilisations Museu Condes de Castro Peggy Guggenheim 405 de l’Europe et de la Guimarães 541 Collection 453 Gemäldegalerie 267 Méditerranée 237 Museu d’Història de Pergamonmuseum Musée d’Orsay 181 Barcelona 588 264-5 Musée du Museu do Fado 530 Pinacoteca di Brera 446-7 Map Pages 000 Cinquantenaire 76 Museu dos Biscainhos Rijksmuseum 505 Photo Pages 000 Musée du Louvre 185-8 560 695 Riverside Museum 166 Parque Natural da Ria food 196-9 food 528, 556 Rubenshuis 86-7 Formosa 542 museums 184 highlights 529 Salzburg Museum 57 Parque Natural Sierras shopping 201-2 money 562 Science Museum 117 de Cazorla, Segura y sights 181-9 public holidays 562 Las Villas 630 Secession 43 tours 189-92 telephone services 562 Snowdonia National Stedelijk Museum 505 Park 160 travel to/from 202-3 travel to/from 562 INDEX INDEX Tate Britain 112 Swiss National Park 660 travel within 203-4 travel within 562-3 Tate Modern 116 Navarra 600-6 parks & gardens Positano 488-9 Titanic Belfast 410 Naxos 358-60 Europapark 56 Potter, Beatrix 158 Topographie des Terrors Nazaré 549 Giardini di Augusto 486 Provence 237-43 M-R 267-8 Netherlands, The 502-27, Hyde Park 117 punting Tower Museum 415 504 Jardim do Palácio de Cambridge 152-3 Ulster Museum 410 accommodation 525 Cristal 553 Oxford 146 Van Gogh Museum 505 climate 502 Jardin des Tuileries 188 Pythagorio 374 Vatican Museums 428, costs 526 Jardin du Luxembourg 184 429 cycling 20, 517 Keukenhof 514 Q Vermeer Centrum Delft drinking & nightlife 526 516 Kew Gardens 121, 124 Quadrilatero d’Oro 450 food 526 Victoria & Albert Parc de la Ciutadella 589 Quimper 210 highlights 504 Museum 117 Park Güell 591 itineraries 503 Zentrum Paul Klee 648-9 Parque del Buen Retiro travel to/from 526 R music 27 568 rail passes 682-3 travel within 527 Mycenae 349 Regent’s Park 120 Randstad 512-23 Nice 243-8, 244 Mykonos 355-8, 356 Royal Gardens of Ravello 489 nightlife 26, see also Herrenhausen 330 Mystras 349 Ravenna 463 individual locations Villa Borghese 431-2 Nîmes 236-7 Red Light District Villa Comunale (Amsterdam) 510 Normandy 208-10 (Taormina) 493 N Regensburg 301-2 Nafplio 348-9 North London 120 Vondelpark 505 Reichstag 261 Naples 479-84, 480 Northern Ireland 409-16 Parque das Nações 531-4 Reims 211-13 national parks & reserves Notting Hill Carnival Parque Nacional da Rethymno 368 Austrian Alps 67 (London) 30, 125 Peneda-Gerês 560-1 Rhine Valley 19, 310-12 Connemara National Nuremberg 298-300 Paxi 380 Rhodes 369-72 Park 408 Peloponnese, The 348-50 Rhône Valley 219-26 Hohe Tauern National Pembrokeshire 159 O Rijksmuseum 505 Park 67 Peniche 547-8 Obertraun 62 Ring of Kerry 403-5 Hoge Veluwe National Perugia 477-9 Óbidos 548-9 Ring of Skellig 404 Park 522 Phaestos 367 Oia 360 Rock of Cashel 399 Killarney National Park Picasso, Pablo 189 402 Oktoberfest (Munich) 15, Rodin, Auguste 184 31, 289 Piccadilly Circus 113 Lake District National Roman Forum 422, 12 Olympia 349-50 Pisa 472-3 Park 157-8 Romantic Road 294-8 Orvieto 476 planning Loch Lomond & the Rome 12, 422-40, 432-3, budgeting 22-3 Trossachs National Ostia Antica 439 424, 426, 430, 434 calendar of events 28-31 Park 170 Oxford 145-8 drinking & nightlife 437 internet resources 23 Parc National des Oyster Card (London) 139 entertainment 438 Calanques 239 itineraries 32-6, , , 32 33 food 433-7 Parnassos National 35, 36 safe travel 438 Park 350 P travel seasons 22, 28 shopping 438 Parque Nacional de Padua 454 Western Europe basics Doñana 630 palaces, see castles, 22-3 sights 422-32 Parque Nacional de los fortresses & palaces Pompeii 485 tourist information 439 Picos de Europa 607 Paleohora 370 Pont du Gard 237 travel to/from 439-40 Parque Nacional de Palermo 490-2 Portmagee 404 travel within 440 Ordesa y Monte Palma de Mallorca 612-14 Porto 553-9, 554 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Perdido 602 296-7 Pamplona 605 Portugal 528-63, 529 Parque Nacional de Rotterdam 518-22, 520 Paris 181-204, 202, 186, accommodation 528, Peneda-Gerês 560-1 190, 194 561-2 Royal Albert Hall 135, 11 Parco Nazionale delle accommodation 192-5, business hours 562 ruins, see archaeological Cinque Terre 443 sites 200-1 climate 528 Parque Nacional da Running of the Bulls drinking & nightlife costs 561 Peneda-Gerês 560-1 199-200 (Pamplona) 605 696 S Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) 160-1 telephone services 674-5, travel to/from 461 safe travel 674 soccer, see football see also individual travel within 461-2 Sagres 545-6 Somme 206 theft 674 Vernazza 444 Salamanca 579-82 Sorrento 486-7 Thessaloniki 352-5, 353 Verona 452-3 Saldanha 530 Sougia 370 Ticino 659-61 Versailles 204-5 Salisbury 141-2 Spain 564-637, 566-7 time zones 22, 675 Vézère Valley 229 INDEX INDEX Salzburg 56-61, 58 accommodation 631-2 Tivoli 439 Via Appia Antica 438 Salzkammergut 61-2 activities 632 Toledo 584-5 Viana do Castelo 559 Samaria Gorge 368 climate 564 Tomar 549-50 Vianden 103
S- Samos 374-5 costs 632 Torcello 455 Victoria & Albert
Z San Gimignano 475 drinking 634 Toulouse 233-5 Museum 117 San Sebastián 602-4 food 634 tourist information 675, Vienna 13, 39-51, 44 see also individual Santa Apolónia 531 highlights 566-7 accommodation 46-7 locations Santiago de Compostela itineraries 565 activities 43 tours 681, see also 606-8 drinking & nightlife 49 money 633 individual locations Santillana del Mar 606 entertainment 49-50 travel to/from 634-5 Game of Throne tours Santorini 17, 360-3, 361, 17 travel within 635-6 414 food 47-8 Sappho 375 Spanish Steps 425 Tower Bridge 113 shopping 50 Sarlat-La-Canéda 228-30 Sporades 377-8 Tower of London 113 sights 39-43 scams 674 St Goar 311 Trafalgar Square 113 tourist information 51 Schengen Agreement 675 St Goarshausen 311 train travel 681-3, 676 travel within 51 Schilthorn 654 St Moritz 661-5 Trastevere 429 Vikos Gorge 354 Schladming 64 St-Malo 210-11 travel to/from Western Vila Nova da Gaia 557 Schloss Belvedere 43 St-Tropez 249-50 Europe 676 visas 22, 675, see also Schloss Neuschwanstein Stonehenge 142 travel within Western individual countries 295 Strasbourg 214-15 Europe 676-83 Vorarlberg 68 Schloss Sanssouci 274 Stratford-upon-Avon trekking, see hiking Schloss Schönbrunn 43 148-51 Trevi Fountain 424 W Scotland 161-74 Stuttgart 302-4 Triberg 306 Wales 158-61 Segovia 582-4 Styrian Tuscany 55 Trier 313-15 walking, see hiking senior travellers 670 surfing 670 Trieste 461 Wallonia 98-9 Seville 616-20, 617 Biarritz 232 Trinity College 151-2 Waterloo 85 Shard 117 Munich 289 Trossachs 170-1 weather 22, 28-31 Sicily 489-96 Óbidos 548 Turin 444-6 websites, see internet Siena 474-6 Peniche 548 Tuscany 14, 464-79, 14 resources Silves 544-5 Sagres 545 Tyrol 62-7 weights 675 Sintra 540-1 Spain 632 Weimar 282-4 Skellig Michael 403 Switzerland 638, 639 U Wengen 653 Skiathos 377-8 accommodation 662 United Kingdom, see Britain Westminster Abbey 112 skiing 670 climate 638 Umbria 464-79 Windermere 157-8 Chamonix 227 costs 663, 664 Utrecht 522-3 Windsor Castle 139-40 Italy 498 highlights 639 windsurfing 545, 632, 670 Jungfrau region 652 itineraries 640 V wine 25 Kitzbühel 66 train travel 647 vaccinations 671 Würzburg 297-305 Lienz 66 travel to/from 663-4 Valais 646-8 Spain 632 travel within 664-5 Valencia 608-11 St Anton am Arlberg 68 synagogues Y van Gogh, Vincent 242, 505 York 153-5 St Moritz 681 Neue Synagoge (Berlin) Vathy 374 267 Ypres 96-8 Zermatt 646 Vatican City 425-8, 429 Slieve League 409 Sinagoga del Tránsito 584 Venice 13, 452-61, 453, Sligo 409 , Z Syracuse 493-5 455 13 smoking 674 accommodation 457-8 Zaanse Schans 513 Sneem 404 activities 457-8 Zagorohoria 354 snowboarding 670 T drinking & nightlife Zaragoza 600-2 Taormina 493 Snowdonia National Park 460-1 Zell am see 64 160-1 Tarragona 598-600 entertainment 460 Zermatt 646-9 Tate Britain 112 food 458-9 Zillertal 64 Tavira 543-4 sights 453 zoos 120 Map Pages 000 taxes 673 tourist information 461 Zürich 654-7, 655 Photo Pages 000 taxis 681 697 NOTES 698 NOTES 699 NOTES 700 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 701
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 702 Donna Wheeler Austria Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for ten years, includ- ing the Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne titles. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary
BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND art, architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history also can be found in a variety of other publications. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist.
Neil Wilson Britain & Ireland Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.
Karla Zimmerman The Netherlands Karla lives in Chicago, where she eat doughnuts, yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines, and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 40-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America, and the Caribbean – all of which are a long way from the early days, when she wrote about gravel for a construction magazine and got to trek to places like Fredonia, Kansas. To learn more, follow her on Instagram and Twitter (@karlazimmerman).
Contributing Writers & Researchers Kate Armstrong (Portugal) Jean-Bernard Carrillet (France) Kerry Christiani (France) Fionn Davenport (Britain & Ireland) Belinda Dixon (Britain) Peter Dragicevich (Britain) Damian Harper (Britain & Ireland) Anita Isalska (France) Anja Mutić (Portugal) Hugh McNaughtan (Britain & France) Isabella Noble (Britain) Christopher Pitts (France) Daniel Robinson (France) Regis St Louis (Portugal & France) Ryan Ver Berkmoes (Ireland) Nicola Williams (France) 703 Catherine Le Nevez Austria, Britain, France, Ireland & The Netherlands Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in
Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of SCENES THE BEHIND Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.
Korina Miller Greece Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seaside kafeneio. Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach.
John Noble Spain John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written or co-writ- ten is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random selection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages). He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to unfamiliar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.
Josephine Quintero Spain Josephine first got her taste of not-so-serious travel when she slung a guitar on her back and travelled in Europe in the early 70s. She eventually reached Greece and caught a ferry to Israel where she embraced kibbutz life and the Mexican-American she was to subsequently wed. Josephine primarily covers Spain and Italy for Lonely Planet.
Andrea Schulte-Peevers Germany Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lone- ly Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.
Andy Symington Belgium & Luxembourg, Britain & Portugal Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Eu- rope and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Oliver Berry Britain & France Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guard- ian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.
Gregor Clark France, Switzerland & Liechtenstein Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.
Marc Di Duca Britain, Germany & Portugal A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.
Duncan Garwood Italy From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he large- ly dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilometres exploring the country’s well-known destinations and far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples & the Amalfi Coast. Other LP titles include Italy’s Best Trips, the Food Lover’s Guide to the World, and Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian. He also writes on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.
OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 13th edition – October 2017 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 147 2 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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