UNLIKELY IDOLS Sigur Rós in Iraq Ísafjörður’s Music Festival Ambivalence Towards Prostitution Complete Reykjavík Listings, Guides and Maps

ISSUE 05 / 05MAY - 18MAY 2006 ISSUE THREE: MAY 5 – MAY 18 YEAR 5

Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 Read between the ‘( )’ The Reykjavík Grapevine Faxaskála, Faxaporti, Faxagötu 2 14 Those People Aren’t That Simple www.grapevine.is [email protected] An Interview with Halla Gunnarsdóttir Published by: Fröken ehf.

16 Turning Tricks for Movie Tix Editor: 540-3602 / [email protected] Advertising: 540-3605 / 868-8187 / [email protected] Marketing: 540-3603 / 869-7796 / [email protected] Distribution: 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected] Features Production: 540-3608 / 849-5611 / [email protected] Listings: 540-3600 / 847-7335 / [email protected] Subscription: 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected] 18 The Melting Pot in a Cold, Cold Place Ísafjörður’s Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Festival Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Bart Cameron / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Production Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / ssentials [email protected] E Staff Journalists: Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson / [email protected] Paul Fontaine-Nikolov / [email protected] 12 Grapevine’s Government Guide Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Columnist: Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann / 30 The Best Place to Buy a Xylophone [email protected] Advertising Sales: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Hljóðheimurinn Sangitamaya Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] Director of Photography: Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon / Welcome to Arnarstapi á Snæfellsnesi 31 Purchases That Justify Existence [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] - the official home of chilly mornings. 32 Dining, Eating and Grubbing Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected]

Proofreader: Erika Wolfe Population 37. Distribution: Sæmundur Þór

Music & Nightlife Cover Photo by: Gúndi Make up / Hair / Styling : Sóley Ástudóttir 34 Happy Trumps Cool Model : Davíð

The Wedding Present and Singapore Sling at Grand Rokk Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. # of ground copies: 30,101 36 The Quota on Bagpipe Salsa: Infinite Rite of Spring festival review We are always looking for articles. 38 Only the Voice is Childlike Send your submissions to : [email protected] An Interview with the Conservatory Escapee Queen of the iPod, Joanna Newsom You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles.

Outside Reykjavík The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.)

39 Kingdom of the Frown  SOUR GRAPES EDITORIALS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Faxagata 2, Faxaskála við Faxaport, 101 Reykjavík. Minnesotans and Sex In my home, we had two things that we didn’t by Sinclair Lewis. That book, by the way, brought In the back of this paper, you can read about Hi Bart, effect on us. Here, the leadership is excoriating you for daring to bring up in mixed company: Minnesotans and sex. Lewis a Nobel Prize for Literature, and it got the Keillor and A Prairie Home Companion. In the Your website is really interesting working hard to ensure rights for say that they would possibly be Actually, we had a few other topics that were off attention of an aspiring writer in Iceland, the No- front of the paper, it is my pleasure to present an and to be honest allowed my brain gays and straights, provided they jealous of Brain Police’s rhythm the menu too: politics, religion, affection, love, bel Laureate Halldór Laxness, who corresponded entirely different Minnesota voice, that of a young to survive up in the highlands aren’t immigrants – yes, if you are an section. While I agree that that is a food, my father’s bleeding gum disease and the girl with Lewis as he wrote his own takes on social writer from Mankato, Minnesota. I am particular- for three long years. I’ve never immigrant under 24, your marriage completely hyperbolic assertion (I’m who appeared fortnightly at our window dressed in criticism, scathing works possessed of a bit more ly proud to have Bronson Lemer’s piece about Iraq understood why you don’t publish does not grant you any rights or actually a big fan of the Brain Police, a sailor’s suit claiming to be my sister, but I believe beauty than Lewis could muster. and Sigur Rós opening this paper – the humanity work advertisements (those from privileges. We know of one case where a but come on...), his junior-high- that in avoiding Minnesotans and sex, we were The only other books my parents had two cop- of his short article, and what his piece says about employment services for instance) man was deported away from his wife caliber reaction/argument/comments like many polite Midwesterners. ies of were the King James Bible – the neighbours the possibilities of the imagination, the possibili- translated into English. Is there any and barred from entering the Schengen are in no way keeping with the So it makes sense that when I was offered the gave it regularly in the blind hope that it would ties for art to deeply and personally affect people reason? Valerio area of Europe – which is also not in general high-brow, discerning, and helm of an alternative magazine, the third issue I bring religion, goodliness, or something resem- across the globe is remarkable. America – for three years. tempered community that are Rush would publish would be devoted to the sex lives bling decency to our home, or “den of sin”, as the For those of you who could not care less about Valerio, Still, Icelanders are protected, fans. It seems to me more likely that of Icelanders, and by the eighth, we started with Racine Journal Times described it – and Garrison Minnesotans with imaginations, we continue I’m glad we could help. To all of those somewhat. this person was arguing on behalf the Minnesota jokes. The Reykjavík Grapevine, Keillor’s first novel, Lake Wobegon Days. to present the best English-language Reykjavík Bart Cameron, Editor people working in the highlands on the I’m guessing the people of the clergy, of some other four-lettered band. of course, has a Duluth correspondent, Andy As we go to print, a few Icelanders have listings in the world, along with handy maps. We dam project, we offer you our support, men and women, know their sacred Korn, perhaps? Saur (who recently realised that his name means heard of Keillor and his classic radio programme also have our first feature from music critic Sindri though, of course, most of the staff is texts. If they don’t, I’m sure they’ll That being said, I do take “shit” in Icelandic), who tells us about his exploits A Prairie Home Companion, a weekly radio Eldon, and, as an added bonus, we have a whole saddened by the effect of your work. be wowed by your extremely cursory umbrage with your characterization making Viking ships out of grocery bags. Isolated show dedicated to storytelling, folk music and lot of Icelandic writers with sex on the brain. Yes, As for our advertisements: while reading. In fact, I’m forwarding this of Rush as “a fat-ass Canadian Led as Iceland is, most locals feel they are closer to the the imagination, as it is coming to Reykjavík for as it happens, on the one year anniversary of our we are read by many Icelanders, we on to the Vatican. It’s so mind-bending Zeppelin cover band”. I’ll dismiss centre of the action in whatever field than Min- a broadcast. But not too many people understand sex issue, we’ve got even more sex, but this time typically stick with tourist advertising. and brilliant. King Solomon, who the fat-ass comment as simply a nesotans would be. Even growing up in Iowa and the impact of the show, or of Keillor’s other work from writers who were told to do things like write As a service, though, we’d like to publish would have thought of using the Old knee-jerk comeback to his equally Wisconsin I felt bad for Minnesotans, or bad for as the Minnesota man of letters, a man who made concert reviews and talk about shopping. Sex, sex, job listings. Unfortunately, they simply Testament to randomly assault religious immature rants. As for the more laughing at them. a modest northern state into something you want sex, sex, sex. don’t come our way. Never. We have ideas and subvert what seems, to all substantive point that they’re a poor- The thing is, we had amazing material in to joke about, because the punch line reminds you So there you have it, sex and Minnesotans. In never been told of a job vacancy for a those silly people who dedicate their man’s Led Zeppelin, well, that’s just mocking Minnesotans. On our bookshelves – the of something that you kind of want to get off your one free publication. May God help us all. foreigner. lives to it, to be a somewhat complicated plain ignorant. While it’s true they real ones, not the swinging ones that concealed my chest. The humour, in other words, is often a dead Perhaps this will change if problem? were considerably influenced by Led dad’s pretty things – we had multiple editions of match for the effect that Laxness had, or for the foreigners start owning their own Yes, black and white is best. Zeppelin (and who in their right Main Street, a scathing critique of Minnesota life crueller Icelandic jabs. companies in Iceland. Mr. Marples, you have a dedicated mind, I may argue, wouldn’t be?), by follower here. If we can get the money the time of their second album they together, we’re flying out to Texas to had clearly put all blatant influences DO LEGISLATORS learn more, straight from the mouth of behind them, developing a sound and KNOW THE MEANING the genius. style all their own on which they built OF “TRADITIONAL Maybe you could shape our opinion enormously on subsequent albums. MARRIAGE”? of war with the simple commandment As close as I hold them to my I read news reports where of Thou shalt not kill, or you could tell heart (no pun intended), I can the U.S. Congress is expected, in who should cast the first stone, or some understand the Rush naysayers. I am June, to tackle the sensitive issue other bumper sticker piece of wisdom constantly coming across people with Regarding All-Caps E-mail Correspondence of what constitutes a “traditional divined in three minutes by typing whom I have a lot in common with marriage”. Some 49 leaders from “bible” into your Google search engine. musically who scrunch up their nose Sites and organisations like Gagnauga.is and Snar- to the right conclusions by employing healthy world could never be struck such a devastating various religious denominations have Jackass. at the mention of Rush (I think it’s rót may not be large or thriving here in Iceland, scepticism rather than emotional speculation. blow in such a straightforward way, but you might signed a letter that calls for a U.S. simply Geddy Lee’s voice that most and they certainly fight for a number of good First of all, if someone comes to you with also think that such a powerful government would Constitutional Amendment to define people have a hard time swallowing, causes, but they are two examples of the extremes a theory that contradicts what you thought you be able to keep a single act of oral sex in the Oval marriage as a union between one Hi, I’ve tried many times to sign up which I can fully understand). that uncritical acceptance of conspiracy theories knew, it’s a good idea not to dismiss it out of hand Office under wraps. Or, say, a break-in into a man and one woman. (See http:// for the email updates to no avail. No However, let us not stoop to the can lead to. While anyone can eschew these web- but ask for references and look it up for yourself. hotel? www.religiouscoalitionformarriage. matter how many times I sign up, level of our enemies and resort to sites, you don’t need to spread your e-mail address You may find links to a slew of sites with banner I happen to think that people with an unwav- org/.) I’ve never received an update. Any uninformed, juvenile name-calling. very far in order to start receiving all-caps e-mails ads and names like “911lies.com”, but note not ering belief in the omnipotence of unseen forces While I am supportive of their ideas? Best, Jeanine We are better than that. espousing the same theories. More mainstream just what they say but who is saying it and with and governments are wrong and that ironically it basic concepts that marriages form Good day Sirs, Madames. media outlets have occasionally picked up on the what evidence. Then compare that to what the is comfort that leads so many people down that a bond that provide boundaries for Well, email updates and websites aren’t -John Evicci, Dracut, MA, USA very edge of this fringe, and usually give it little impartial experts in the relative fields have said on path of false rationalisation of far-fetched theories legitimate sexual activity, as well as our specialty. We get news up every serious coverage, but an informal survey of any the issue; it’s really not that hard to find structural that do not match any known facts. It’s time we providing a foundation for rearing day by noon, Icelandic time – so there’s P.S. Your mother wears combat medium-sized workplace will probably turn up engineers and pilots who are neither obsessed with faced a different set of facts: our governments are of children by a father & mother, always good content on the website… if boots. quite a number of people leaning towards ideas conspiracy nor are they members of some shadowy made up of people every bit as fallible and petty as I think that the clergymen have you can find it. Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson, like the one that the Bush administration, Jews or government agency. Google is your friend in these the rest of us are. Your average government agency totally forgotten the Biblical roots of P.P.S. Hey, seriously, keep up the Journalist some huge international conspiracy was respon- matters, as are sites like Snopes.com. works about as efficiently as an underwater toaster. marriage. good work on the mag & thanks sible for the 9/11 attacks. There are people that No one knows exactly what happened on 9/11; If you are one of the people sending out e-mails What they suggest is Hi Bart, again for making it available to spend hours analysing video from that day and no one knows exactly how the world is run ‘behind suggesting that Halldór Ásgrímsson announced perfectly fine for regulating legal I would first want to congratulate us schmucks who aren’t fortunate pulling nonsensical ‘facts’ out of their posteriors, the scenes’, but despite what conspiracy theorists the closure of the military base to take the heat off or civil marriages, which act you for the great work you are doing enough to live in Iceland or visit such as the contention that no plane hit the Penta- would lead you to believe we have quite a number the Baugur ruling or that Dick Cheney shot his in the same capacity as “legal with this newspaper. I am a former it frequently enough to be able to gon and the towers were detonated from within; of clues and they don’t suggest a collusion of friend in the face to draw attention away from an partnerships”. However, the Erasmus student in Reykjavík for obtain regular copies, that is to then there are others who are prepared to listen powerful forces so much as a colossal screw-up on accounting scandal, you might want to think of sacrament of Holy Matrimony one full year, and I was a big fan say, putting the PDFs on the web! and uncritically accept that speculation as a viable every level. It’s certainly not a comfortable thought Occam’s razor and consider an alternative: Perhaps is an institution ordained of of your magazine and still am, but, Thumbs way the fuck up!! But, alternative to expert opinion. While space certainly to imagine that 19 religious zealots with box cut- they are simply not all that competent? God. The Old Testament of the unfortunately, I would like to tell you’re still missing those issues I does not permit me to critically assess every one of ters would be able to kill 3,000 people, start two Bible sanctioned a specific type of you that it is impossible for me to wrote to you about a year ago (2003 the hundreds if not thousands of outlandish claims wars and a jihad and arguably change international polygamous marriage: polygny (a get issue 3 of this year in the PDF #2 & #3, and 2005 #7) and now #3 one regularly hears about this issue, any reasonable politics and American culture forever. You might husband with several wives). King format! of this year. and open-minded person should be able to come think that the most powerful government in the Solomon had 700 wives and 300 I was wondering if it was Looking forward to seeing those concubines. Abraham, Jacob, Moses possible to do something with it, someday. OK, until next time, all and numerous others also practiced cause you guys keep me company the best... polygny. I would hope that today’s during my daily two-hour public modern clergymen will examine the transportation in the Parisian metro. John, roots of what they term “traditional Thanks again, keep up the great Thank you for cooling down this Rush marriage”. Perhaps the best solution job! discussion. Don’t start apologising for is for government to regulate Jean Michel the actions of other Rush fans, though, purely “civil union marriages”. But or it’ll never stop. As for the website, government should not concern itself Okay. I think I’ve cleared everything our tech department is impeccable. whatsoever in the sacrament of Holy up with our tech guy. Turns out, he was I have no idea what you’re talking Matrimony. Whatever is deemed plugged into a 1983 Speak n Spell, not about. Never have I received an email Lunch special! Holy is deemed a sacred religious a “computer”. He has a book on his desk complaining that the site hasn’t been From 11.00-14.00 The luck is rite and therefore government should about DOS, and I just explained how updated. NEVER! It must be your keep its nose out of it. I would hope the mouse works. Given a few years, we imagination. that Iceland will likewise make should be fully functional. Until then, with you polygamy legal among adults who I will continue to reserve my first hour are open & honest and where no of each day for apologising for horrible Dear Bart abuse or fraud takes place. tech support. Wondering if you got this? Sincerely, I’ve tried many times to sign up for James A. Marples the email updates to no avail. No P.O. Box 1542 Gentle Grapeviners, matter how many times I sign up, Longview, Texas 75606 USA As a life-long, dyed-in-the-wool I’ve never received an update. Any Rush fan (of the ‘73-’82 variety), I ideas? We’re the Reykjavík Grapevine. would like to apologize on behalf Best, Jeanine Reykjavík, Iceland. Iceland being a of Rush fans the world over for country in Europe. So the US Congress’s the embarrassingly puerile letter We have a website? Soup of the day + 1/2 panini + koffee = 870 kr. assault on Americans’ rights has limited written to you by one “Ape Shaw” Espresso bar open every day 08.00-00.00 - Lækjatorg (main square)  READ BETWEEN THE ‘( )’

by bronson lemer photos by bronson lemer

On January 20, 2003, I received a call I’ll never forget. It was a call that split my life in two. It was a call from my squad leader in the North Dakota National Guard, activating my unit in support of Operation Enduring Freedom, which later became Operation Iraqi Freedom. We were being sent to Iraq. We didn’t know that at the time but re- gardless we prepared for the deployment. We packed our gear: boots, uniforms, canteens, entrenching tools for digging foxholes. We also packed the other necessities: books, pho- tographs of friends and family, music. This was before iPods were a necessity, so you had to choose your music carefully. Like a long- distance trip where you must choose the songs that will make up that journey, I dove into my CD collection and selected only a half-dozen albums to take with me. These would be the songs of my new journey. These would be the titles I’d have to listen to over and over and over and over. I also bought new albums. On the recom- mendation of a friend, who played the album straight through during his college radio pro- gram, I bought ( ) by Sigur Rós at a Best Buy in Fargo, North Dakota, on Jan. 26, 2003. The next day I boarded a bus in Wahpeton, North Dakota, with other troops bound for Fort Carson, Colorado. I immediately placed my headphones on my head and listened – for the first time – to ( ) as the bus left Wahpeton on that cold, grey day. The album defies description. There is no album title, no track titles, no writing in the booklet. Instead, the Icelandic band presents an album of songs open for interpretation, a set of songs refusing to be tagged. They are songs that defy any sort of definition. You can out at the passing greyness of North Dakota try to label them but you’ll never be able to fields, I was searching for something to hold label these songs as just one thing. They are onto about my old life, some kind of memory many things, associated to many other things, to keep with me. Birgisson’s voice surged with something different to everyone who hears emotion and fell to a hushed melody of piano them. and strings. It was a song – a feeling – I had The music of Sigur Rós is hard to explain. trouble explaining. Yet, that song and the These are songs of moods, emotions and images of that cold day are what I remember desires. The often spooky plunking of piano now. keys, swelling of guitars and Birgisson’s I listened to the album four times on the waif-like voice fueled the feeling I was having trip from Wahpeton to Fort Carson, more while leaving North Dakota – regret, sadness, than any of the other albums I packed. Each fear. They matched every emotion, every feel- song reminds me of a place and feeling dur- “There has long been this tendency in Icelandic soci- ety to want to sweep uncomfortable issues under the carpet, even though everyone knew they were there. For instance, you might have a weird uncle that you think hangs out with kids a little bit too much, but no one wants to say anything.” Marteinn Þórsson, of Kom- CAMOUFLAGE ICELAND pás news magazine. ing I was having for having to leave the place ing that trip: Track 1 became “Dog Chasing where I belonged. As we left Wahpeton and the Bus outside Wahpeton” and “Loneliness the dozens of people waving from roadside at Seeing the Colorado Rockies”; Track 5 curbs, warm cars and overpass bridges, the became “The Border Between the Dakotas” songs of ( ) began to seep into me, calming and “One Night in North Platte, Nebraska”; the anger I was having about leaving. The Track 8 became “Boots Hanging from Power melodies matched the mood of a soldier set Lines at Armory in Sioux City, Iowa.” on a journey to war. Like generations before, I While the songs refused to be tagged, I BOOK YOUR began attaching songs to “my war.” associate them with that journey. They will 8773 · Ó! Augl‡singastofa ( ) became my war music. always remind me of the places we passed YOU’LL FIND CINTAMANI ICELANDIC The songs also matched the land – pure through and the feelings surging through my ADVENTURE OUTDOOR WEAR TO FIT YOUR EVERY white blankets of late January snow stretch- body while I listened to the album. NEED AT OUR CENTER FOR ADVENTURE ing for miles. The bare branches of the trees Today, I refer to my life in two halves: STORE IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. dotting the open fields matched the barren the time before that call, and the time after. WITH US! FREE INTERNET AND BOOKING SERVICEs. branches on the back of the jewel case. These I was terrified of leaving North Dakota for were songs of vastness, songs that were unique Iraq. I was terrified of growing up, spending like landscapes. 12 months in a country torn by war. ( ) helped CINTAMANI OUTDOOR STORE // LAUGAVEGUR 11 // 101 REYKJAVIK Without track names I began putting me calm those nerves. The album became the names to each song. On Track 4, Birgisson’s opening to the second act of my life. voice drifts over the dreamlike sweetness of a piano. For me, Birgisson is singing the word Bronson Lemer is a MFA candidate at MSU. “desire” over and over, and while looking 

News in Brief

by gunnar hrafn jónsson, sveinn birkir björnsson and paul f. nikolov

Combined Profit For Icelandic Banks while debt has been rising people The statement reads in part: religious organisations to decide for support drop from 55 to 47 percent - 60 Billion ISK have been steadily accumulating “The Association feels that it is themselves if they want to perform during the same period. The four biggest banks in Iceland assets as well. The analysts behind completely intolerable that, in the ceremony. There are large made a combined profit of 61.3 the report believe the total assets of practice, ordinary police officers are congregations such as the Icelan- billion ISK, after taxes, in the first Icelandic individuals amount to at not offered the same protection as dic Free Church and the Ásatrú Nationalist Party “Could Be quarter of 2006. The number is least 4,000 billion krónur (half of other authorities. It is clear that a congregation (Norse Paganism) that Formed” up from 25 billion ISK in the first that in the form of investment in response is needed in the form of would gladly perform the ceremony, Eiríkur Bergmann Einarsson, a quarter of 2005. residential housing), and probably a legislation or whatever other means but there are no legal provisions for docent in political science, believes Iceland’s gross domestic product good deal more, while the total debt can be utilised to increase the legal them to do that. This would allow that the formation of a nationalist in 2005 was 996 billion ISK. The is only 1,200 billion. protection offered to police officers. them to do that.” party in Iceland is “only a matter of profit of the banks in the first The difference of 3,000 billion Our job environment will not be time.” quarter of this year equals about six is their net worth, or net assets, and secure as long as there are few or no According to a recent Gallup percent of the total gross domestic that figure has never been higher. legal consequences for threatening Eggertsson Announces Plan for poll conducted for Ásgeir Hannes product of Iceland in 2005. and/or attacking policemen. It is a Reykjavík Eiríksson, former MP for the When explaining the profit difficult situation to tolerate.” Dagur B. Eggertsson, the mayoral Citizen’s Party, about one-third of of his bank and trying to put the Man Gets No Jailtime for Running candidate for the Social Democratic respondents said they would pos- number in some sort of perspective, Down Police Officer; Union Not Party, announced early in April sibly vote for a party whose platform Sigurjón Árnason, manager of KB Amused Gay Marriage on the Horizon that he has a planning platform for includes anti-immigration measures. Banki told RÚV that the profit was The National Association of Police Social Democrat MP, Guðrún Reykjavík. “All the foundations for the enough to buy over 3,000 SUVs Officers issued a press release Ögmundsdóttir introduced a new This platform includes 11 plan- formation of a nationalist party are worth five million ISK each. recently complaining over what bill in parliament last month that ning proposals, among them the here,” Einarsson told the Grape- they feel is a rank-related discrep- would allow priests and religious creation of 6,000 new apartments, vine. “There are more people ancy when it comes to sentencing organisations to perform marriage including 800 for students and 800 immigrating to Iceland, while the Icelanders Have Average Net Worth in cases where police officers have ceremonies for gay couples. for senior citizens. government has taken no steps to of Ten Million Krónur, According to been physically assaulted in the line According to the bill, priests and The party also wants to move increasing multiculturalism. The KB Banki of duty. religious organisations will not be the domestic airport in Vatnsmýri, formation of a far-right party is just A new report by financial analysts The controversy was prompted required to perform the ceremony, outside the city within the next few a matter of time.” working on behalf of KB Banki, or by two recent sentences in particu- but will be given an option to do so years to an undisclosed location, and When asked if Article 233(a), Kaupthing Bank, indicates that the lar; one man was given six months if they choose. to create an idea contest for how the Iceland’s hate speech law, could net assets of individuals in Iceland in prison for shoving a sheriff so Currently, gay couples can get a area would then be developed. stand in the way of forming such is almost 3,000 billion krónur. That that he “almost lost his balance”, civil confirmation of their relation- According to the results of an a party, Einarsson said that such means the average net worth of an while in the other case a man got ship, which entitles them to the ongoing Gallup poll in late March, parties could get around the law Icelandic citizen – including every only four months of probation for same legal status as a religious mar- support for the Social Democratic through how they use their lan- man, woman and child – is just stalking and running down an of- riage. Party in Reykjavík had risen from guage. under ten million krónur. ficer with his car, jumping out and In a conversation with the 30 to 36 percent since January of Einarsson believes the solution, The results may be surprising in then hitting him forcefully in the Grapevine, Ögmundsdóttir said this year, while the Independence then, is for the government to take light of concerns over heavy bor- stomach as he lay injured on the that marriage is the only unresolved Party – the current leading party an active role in increasing multicul- rowing, but estimates indicate that ground. gay rights issue. “This would allow in city elections – has seen their turalism. “You can’t stop people from PM: Government Will Not Control long winter months. “The cows that moving across borders,” he told us. Inflation are easy all-year-around, even the “And the solution is not to move Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson old ones, become quite crazy. In a backwards and shut Iceland off, but announced at a press conference, way, the Icelandic entrepreneurs to move forward through a policy held the 18th of April, that the acted the same when we opened the of integration of foreigners directed government would not be stepping stable.” not only at our new arrivals, but at in to put controls on inflation. After serving the country as Icelanders as well, that they be more The news came on the heels of prime minister for a record 13 years aware of other cultures and more the latest report from new report (1991-2004), Oddsson is now faced sensitive towards them.” by ASÍ – The Icelandic Confedera- with the task of reining in the eco- tion of Labour – on the Icelandic nomic effects of his policies as head economy, which predicts increas- of the Icelandic Central Bank. A Wireless Reykjavík? ing inflation in the years 2006 and The economy has been wavering Independence Party candidates for 2007. According to the report, lately, following negative reports city council announced last month inflation is likely to soar well above from leading financial analysts and their intention to look into the the 4 percent upper tolerance limit criticism in foreign media, especially possibility of creating a wireless of the 2.5 percent inflation target. regarding foreign debt and current Internet network for the entire city The report also predicts a de- account deficit. of Reykjavík. crease in economic growth, from 5.5 Oddsson is quoted as saying Bolli Thoroddsen, chairman percent in 2005 to 4.3 percent in that a further increase in interest of Heimdallur and a candidate for 2006 and 3.1 percent in 2007. rates may be necessary to fend off city council for the Independence The PM’s decision also runs inflation and further decrease the Party, told reporters that, “We want contrary to the advice of Paul currency’s value. “Our models show Reykjavík to be the first capital city Rawkins, Senior Director of the that to keep inflation at bay, we to be a wireless city.” Sovereign team for market analysts would have to go much higher, even The project, if undertaken, Fitch Ratings, who advised that up to 16 percent.” would combine city workers and the government needs to step in private companies. to control what he perceives to be According to the results of an ongo- an overheating of the Icelandic First-Ever Heroin Seizure at Keflavík ing Gallup poll, published in March economy. Airport this year, the Independence Party “The fiscal policy in Iceland A previously known heroin addict, has seen its support drop from 55 is that the Central Bank is pretty travelling from Amsterdam, was to 47 percent since January of this much left to run the show while detained by police at the Keflavík year, while support for the Social the government makes tax cuts,” he Airport early last month after he Democratic Party in Reykjavík has told the Grapevine at that time. “If was found to be carrying five grams risen from 30 to 36 percent during the economy’s overheating, tax cuts of heroin and around 30 grams of the same period. aren’t the way to go. While I can cocaine internally. appreciate the government’s priva- This was the first time in the tisation policy, they look a bit too history of the airport that heroin Iceland Leads the World in Broad- relaxed about it. You can’t always had been intercepted, and the band Connectivity, According to stand back and do nothing.” Grapevine’s sources claimed it is OECD Report very seldom available for purchase The Organisation for Economic on the Icelandic drug scene. The Cooperation and Development, Oddsson: Icelandic Entrepreneurs case will most likely be investigated or OECD, released a report last Like Cows In Springtime by the Reykjavík police, but the month on the worldwide use of In an article appearing on the web- amount in question as well as the broadband technology. According site of Bloomberg Financial News man’s condition do not seem to to the report, as of year’s end 2005 the 10th of April, Icelandic Central indicate a commercial operation. Iceland has the highest percent- Bank manager Davíð Oddsson lik- Late last year the Icelandic age of broadband subscribers in the ens Icelandic financial entrepreneurs media, notably the NFS news world, with 26.7 subscribers per 100 to cows that are released from their magazine Kompás, put months of inhabitants. stalls in the springtime. focus on the demand for and abuse That amounts to around 78,000 Oddsson, who is Iceland’s former of Contalgin, which is an extended high-speed connections in total, prime minister, was responsible release form of morphine and in- while second-place South Korea has for deregulating Icelandic financial tended for long-term pain relief. 12 million subscribers, or about 25 markets during his reign. He admits Heroin (diacetylmorphine) is percent of their total population. that the development may have essentially a subtly altered form The report also notes that in the been overly fast-paced. “It gave us of morphine, which crosses the previous year Iceland had roughly a lot of spirit, and freedom inspired blood-brain barrier more quickly 18 percent broadband penetration, everybody. Maybe we did it a little and efficiently – providing a more and in 2001 the figure was only 3.7 bit too quickly. But in the end, it immediate and intense high. Police percent. was the right thing to do.” and rehabilitation centres have, as At over 26 percent, the current He then goes on to compare of yet, been unable to give any ex- broadband penetration rate in Ice- the reactions of Icelandic investors planation for its lack of penetration land is twice that of Germany, four and entrepreneurs to the reaction into the Icelandic drug market. times higher than in the Republic of cows that are released from their of Ireland and over ten times that of stable in the barn in the spring, Poland. after being kept inside for Iceland’s 12 Sveinn Birkir Björnsson gives us Grapevine’s Government Guide Grapevine’s Government Guide Who They Are and How They Vote And this issue’s question is . . . A recent Gallup poll paid for by a private organisation suggested that 30 percent of Icelanders are interested in reconsidering immigration The Leftist-Green Party (Vinstrihreyfingin- in Iceland. Will your party put immigrant issues specifically on the Grænt Framboð) Guiding principles: Far-left, pro-environmental, anti-NATO, anti-EU, agenda in the Parliamentary Elections in 2007? feminist Leftist-Green Party: Social Democratic Party want to help immigrants with Party Chairperson: Steingrímur J. Sigfússon “Of course. It will be a prominent Progressive Party: assimilation into Icelandic society. Number of seats: 5 issue for us, as it has always been. “I don’t know if we will put it We need to form some sort of Registered members: about 2,000 We have presented various bills on our agenda specifically, but I policy and legislation that will Ministers: none in order to safeguard the rights of think it is safe to assume that this ensure we do not have the same Support according to latest poll: 16% immigrants. We believe that there issue will be a topic of discussion problems as our neighbouring Website: www.vg.is should be Icelandic lessons available until that time. The Progressive countries in Scandinavia.” E-mail: [email protected] free of charge for all immigrants Party has been in charge of the Magnús Þór Hafsteinsson, Tel.: 552-8872 and we need to make it easier Ministry of Social Welfare, which MP Liberal Party Address: Pósthólf 175, 121 Reykjavík for them to access information handles immigrant issues, and I Independence Party: and participate in our society.” think our position on this matter “It will be on our agenda, same as Kolbrún Halldórsdóttir, MP is best mirrored by the policies all other issues. The Independence Leftist-Green Party that have been formed in the Party is very positive towards Social Democratic Party: Ministry during that time.” immigration. We would especially “It has always been on our agenda. Kristinn H. Gunnarsson, like to see an increase in funding The Social Democratic Party We need to continue conversations MP Progressive Party for Icelandic language lessons (Samfylkingin) with different groups of immigrants Liberal Party: for immigrants. We believe that Guiding principles: Left-centrist, social-democratic to resolve this issue. We need to “That might very well be. We immigrants increase diversity Party Chairperson: Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir guarantee their rights with strong believe that this is an issue that and enrich our society.” Number of seats: 20 and transparent legislation.” Icelanders need to discuss and Drífa Hjartardóttir, MP Registered members: about 20,000 Guðrún Ögmundsdóttir, MP reach a conclusion on how we Independence Party Ministers: none Support according to latest poll: 31% Website: www.samfylking.is E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: 414-2200 Address: Hallveigarstígur 1 (2nd Floor), Box 160, 101 Reykjavík

The Progressive Party (Framsóknarflokkurinn) Guiding principles: Right-centrist, pro-EU, pro-heavy industry; believes in fewer economic and environmental regulations while strengthening the social system. Party Chairperson: Halldór Ásgrímsson Number of seats: 12 Registered members: about 10,000 Ministers: Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson, Minister of Social Affairs Jón Kristjánsson, Minister of Agriculture Guðni Ágústsson, Minister for Health and Social Security Siv Friðleifsdóttir, Minister of Industry and Commerce Valgerður Sverrisdóttir Support according to latest poll: 9% Website: www.framsokn.is E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: 540-4300 Address: Hverfisgata 33 (2nd Floor), 101 Reykjavík

The Liberal Party (Frjálslyndir) Guiding principles: Right-centrist, emphasising the rights of fishermen and increasing government transparency. Party Chairperson: Guðjón Kristjánsson Number of seats: 3 Registered members: about 2,000 Ministers: none Support according to latest poll: 3% Website: www.frjalslyndir.is Grapevine’s Government Guide Bonus: E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: 552-2600 Witness Democracy in Action! Address: Aðalstræti 9, 101 Reykjavík It’s possible to watch parliamentary Dómkirkjan. Admission is free, you can go up to the gallery and sessions live, and you don’t need although you might be asked to witness democracy in action. cable – or even a television, check large bags with security Popcorn currently unavailable. for that matter. and remove your hat. From there, The Independence Party The government television (Sjálfstæðisflokkurinn) station RÚV, attainable by even Guiding principles: Right wing, believes in further privatisation in all areas the poorest TV aerials, regularly of society; anti-EU broadcasts live from the halls of Party Chairperson: Geir H. Haarde parliament. Check RÚV’s listings Number of seats: 23 in any of the country’s newspapers, Registered members: about 34,000 look for “Alþingi” and tune in. Ministers: Minister of Fisheries Einar K. Guðfinnson, Minister of Justice If you prefer, you can also and Ecclesiastical Affairs Björn Bjarnason, Minister for Foreign Affairs Geir watch the action in person – from H. Haarde, Minister of Finance Árni M. Mathiesen, President of Parliament a gallery within the halls of Sólveig Pétursdóttir, Minister for the Environment Sigríður A. Þórðardóttir, parliament themselves. Simply go Minister of Communications Sturla Böðvarsson, Minister of Education, to the parliament’s web page, www. Science and Culture Þorgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir althingi.is, to see the dates and Support according to latest poll: 40% times of the next parliamentary Website: www.xd.is session. Then make your way to E-mail: [email protected] the parliament building, which Tel.: 515-1700 faces Austurvellir, and use the Address: Háaleitisbraut 1, 105 Reykjavík entrance opposite the church 14

BLUE LAGOON EXPRESS AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

A tour to the famous Blue Lagoon which is filled with therapeutic MAY thermal water rich in minerals and silica. A place for bathers to Those People Aren’t That Simple luxuriate in a world where time stands still as body and soul An Interview with Halla Gunnarsdóttir become rejuvenated.

Daily departures from Reykjavik to the Blue Lagoon all year round: 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:10, 16:00 and 18:00. by paul f. nikolov photo by gúndi Daily departures from the Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik all year Morgunblaðið journalist Halla Gunnarsdót- help dispel stereotypes people have about /// So you think the show is meeting a need that my generation does. While in the UK it’s tir originally intended to be a primary school “these people”? in the Icelandic media? been normal to go on a three-month holiday round: 11:15, 13:15, 15:15, 17:15, 18:45 and 21:00. teacher, but went to Morgunblaðið in 2003 – My point of view is that generalising and – Well, there are a lot of political talk shows somewhere, here it’s typically “normal” to go because she found that her extensive travels categorising isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It’s out there right now, lots of focus on Ice- abroad primarily just for studies. I don’t know Daily departures from the Blue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport: 14:10. would interfere with teaching. More recently, what we do. When you start at a new job, for landic and international politics, and less how much we know that what we do here af- she sold media station NFS the idea for a example, you look around you and categorise about cultures of other people in the world. fects everything else. Pick-up from hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. television show whose purpose is to examine your co-workers. It’s normal. It only becomes There is life elsewhere than here. We’re very ÍSLENSKA AUGLÝSINGASTOFAN/SIA.IS KYN 32479 05/2006 the cultures of other countries in the world. /// I’ve often heard the argument before that The Grapevine met up with Gunnarsdóttir to certain Icelandic attitudes about people from find out why such a show is necessary. “As far back as the Middle Ages, you had sailors from other countries are due to how recently for- ISK 3.400 eigners have been coming here, that they’re /// Your education is in teaching, yet you France and England coming here, the Turks and Alge- not used to it. Do you think this is the case? Includes: Bus fare and admission to the Blue Lagoon. work for Morgunblaðið and are now starting – I think it’s a myth that we’re as homog- (This is a non-guided tour) your own show on NFS. Can you explain the rians coming to the Westmann Islands, and then more enous as we think we are. Iceland is actually transition? not very far from having the same percent- – I never actually made the decision to be recently of course people from the UK and the US. Peo- age of foreigners as other Nordic countries. For bookings or more information: a journalist. I just have a passion for writ- Further back in history, even as far back as ing, and thought Morgunblaðið would be a ple from all over the world have been coming here for the Middle Ages, you had sailors from France Telephone: (+354) 562 1011 nice place to work. I’ve found that in many and England coming here, the Turks and E-mail: [email protected] ways, being a journalist is the same as being a centuries. So I don’t think we’re as homogenous as we Algerians coming to the Westmann Islands, teacher. In both cases you’re taking something and then more recently of course people from Our Sales offices, hotels and guesthouses that you’ve experienced and are passing it say we are.” the UK and the US. People from all over the on. What I do now isn’t that different from world have been coming here for centuries. So when I used to tutor my nephew in math a bad thing when it affects how you talk to isolated. My feeling is that while we might I don’t think we’re as homogenous as we say when I was a little kid. I’ve always had to tell others, or how you treat them. That can be be globalised technologically, we’re not very we are. everyone about everything, the result being damaging. When you decide how someone is, globalised mentally. We’re pretty far away. I think that our pre-conceived notions that I talk a lot. like thinking that “Arab = terrorist,” then it persist because we just like saying them, and becomes a problem. But as long as you know /// How so? they go on, and do so fairly easily in a country For more exciting daytours /// What’s the concept behind the show? that you’re using a stereotype, and it doesn’t – Well, one example would be in how we the size of Iceland. The good and the bad check out our brochure – It’s called Þetta Fólk (These People), which affect how you treat or talk to others, it’s not organise non-governmental organisations thing about the size of this country is that if at your hotel or is a reference to stereotypes, such as “Danish you want an idea heard, you only need to say people drink beer.” On each show we feature it once. The media can distribute these ideas information center. one country, and talk to people who are either “The news only goes so far in teaching people about pretty easily. from there, have lived there or have written about the place. People have different areas other countries. This show goes a bit deeper.” /// What is the one thing you hope people of emphasis, so maybe one guest will be well- take away from your show? versed on that country’s art; another on its necessarily a bad thing. (NGOs). In central Europe, they’re in much – To open some people’s eyes. Just want them history and so on. The way I saw the world when I was a better touch with what’s going on in the to learn something new. I’m not expecting to We’re trying to introduce Icelanders kid was, Africa is filled with starving people; world. There are ideas being born around the cause a revolution. I’m just hoping to provide to these countries, from a wider angle, and Asia is made of China and Japan; and Europe world at the same time that either haven’t a fresh, new voice to everything else here. introduce the country to “these people.” The was the UK and Benidorm. But as you grow, reached here yet or are newly arrived. It wasn’t For bookings or information: news only goes so far in teaching people about and learn, and travel, you come to know more so long ago that we were living in mud houses. Þetta Fólk can be seen Sundays at 11:00 on NFS, Telephone: (+354) 562 1011 • [email protected] • Our Sales offices • Hotels and guesthouses other countries. This show goes a bit deeper. details. My hope is that this show will be able We used to be a very poor nation, and in many and on http://www.visir.is/apps/pbcs.dll/section to provide some of these details. ways that’s still with us. My parents’ genera- ?Category=FRETTIR&template=kompas under /// Are you hoping then that the show will tion didn’t have the same opportunity to travel “NFS í beinni”. opinion Turning Tricks for Movie Tix

A CoLUMN by ÞórdÍs elva Þorvaldsdóttir bachmann

A few weeks ago, I read an article Both of these people grew up in the local tabloid newspaper DV in the average, Icelandic house- about prostitution. Someone called hold, never living in fear, wonder- Gunnar had phoned the paper to ing where their next meal would air his frustrations regarding the come from. As my mind slowly criminality of prostitution. Ac- started opening up, I remembered cording to Gunnar, prostitution an incident from six years ago. A should be considered an act of noble group of other people and I had Whales& kindness because disabled people missed the last flight from Bakki and ugly folks need to get laid too. airport to an outdoor festival in Puffin Island These wonderful women are serving the Westmann Islands. A group of Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable 3-hour a cause that’s no less important than loud, drunken girls started to curse trip into the world of whales and sea birds. eating and sleeping, Gunnar said. and whine until one of them had Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from the city centre. A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the “A young man I know, who currently holds third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Puffin season an influential and respectable job, told me 60170 • fít • April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 or visit that he once accepted payment for sex from MIXA 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 555 3565 www.elding.is 17:00 17:00 17:00 a stranger in a dark alley. ‘I just wanted to know what it was like,’ he said.”

My first reaction was to wonder enough. She exchanged a few words Elding Whale Watching, Reykjavík harbour whether Gunnar took into con- with the guy behind the desk, who Tel: (+354) 555 3565, Fax: (+354) 554 7420 sideration that a majority of these was old enough to be her dad, after [email protected], www.elding.is wonderful women are forced to which they disappeared into the sell access to their bodies, but my back room. Twenty minutes later, second, more powerful, reaction was the girl came back and announced curiosity over what Gunnar looks to her friends that she’d solved the like. Having been tainted by his problem. Everyone cheered as they ideas, I couldn’t help but envisioning took their seats on the plane, and I a very ugly amputee. overheard one of the girl’s friends A few days later, I was in Berlin ask her what she’d done. She smiled, with my boyfriend, who suffered stuck her tongue in her cheek in a from back pain after having been suggestive manner and got high- crammed into tiny airplane seats on fives from her friends, who laughed three separate flights. He was happy wholeheartedly. I remember feeling to discover that our street was lined dirty when I got off the plane be- with traditional Thai massage plac- cause what got me to my destination Concerts in March es. I started to get suspicious when was ultimately not a plane but some we had to ring a doorbell at the mas- girl’s twisted moral standards. Per- May 6th ´06 Family Concert “In Wonderland” sage parlour and my suspicions rose haps that’s why I purposely forgot further when my masseuse clearly about the whole thing until recently. Háskólabíó, Saturday at 4.00 Price in ISK: 1100 (Children) 1600 (Adults) had no idea what she was doing. My The fact of the matter is that Conductor: Rumon Gamba boyfriend found himself in an even those on the receiving end of Soloist: Valdís G. Gregory more awkward situation when his prostitution are often no more ugly Announcer: Halla Vilhjálmsdóttir masseuse attempted to ‘service’ him or disabled than the guy behind the Music by: Maurice Ravel, Sergej Prokofiev, Carl Nielsen and others. in a way that had nothing in com- desk at Bakki, and those who trade mon with massage except lubricant. sex for money or favours are often So there it was. My first encoun- no more enslaved than the girl who ter with prostitution. It took me a took the matter into her own hands May 11th ´06 while to wrap my mind around it, (or mouth, shall we say). Háskólabíó, Thursday at 7.30 pm especially because my ideas about Prostitution is far more common Price in ISK: 2900 / 2500 prostitution were very far from the than society would like to admit. Conductor: Alexander Vedernikov reality in Berlin. I had a Lilya-4- Certain schools of philosophy go as Gustav Mahler: Symphony no. 6 Ever-like notion of imported East- far as to claim that 95 percent of all ern European teenage sex slaves on romantic relationships in the world drugs. After I tossed my misconcep- are conditioned, where one partner May 18th & 19th ´06 Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart 250th Anniversary tions, I started noticing prostitution exchanges sex and friendship for in the unlikeliest of situations. financial stability or company. I am Háskólabíó, Thursday & Friday at 7.30 pm Price in ISK: 2900 / 2500 A young man I know, who too much of a romantic to accept Conductor og Soloist: Ernst Kovacic currently holds an influential and that theory, but I’ve learned my Frank Martin: Ouverture en hommage a Mozart respectable job, told me that he lesson when it comes to the sex in- Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart: Concerto for Violin and Orchestra in d-major KV 261a once accepted payment for sex from dustry. Next time I want a back rub, Gottfried von Einem: Wandlungen op.21 a stranger in a dark alley. “I just I’m getting it from someone I trust. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart: Symphony no. 40 wanted to know what it was like,” he said. It wasn’t about the money. A woman I know told me she’d slept with a guy in exchange for movie tickets.

The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra is at Háskólabíó, Hagatorg, 107 Reykjavík, Tel: 545 2500 18 19

“It is impossible to ade- quately stress the fact that there is zero profit to be made as an Icelandic musi- cian, and the venues should reflect this.”

The Melting Pot in a Cold, Cold Place Ísafjörður’s Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Festival

by sindri eldon photos by hörður sveins

If you’ve ever wondered what the outer space to place in either category, or any category at their tan ski-jackets and crossed arms – no one good, though. Kristinn Níelsson was completely colonies man will one day establish may look all, for that matter. I entered the venue at three crosses their arms like that without looking like pointless and Hafdís Bjarna almost so, while like, then Ísafjörður in winter might be for you. in the afternoon to the tortured growls and dis- a complete philistine), impatient out-of-town- 701 were just plain bad. A rustic, spartan island of civilisation in a bar- torted atonal guitar cracks of I’m Being Good. ers waiting for the big acts and rugged locals Meanwhile, the room grew steadily ren, desolate, snow-covered ocean of nothing- Their music was a weird mix of minimalism in fishing boots being very appreciative in their warmer. The odd mishmash that had populated ness, its very existence seems implausible at and saturation, but weirder still was the sight of own, thoughtful, stubble-stroking way. Edinborg at the beginning of the programme best. The three-thousand or so inhabitants this kind of atmospheric rock being played in Another helpful hint that you may have had evolved into a smiling gathering of rela- cower constantly in the shadows of the two such a sparse setting. wandered off the beaten path was the ludi- tives, friends and soon-to-be friends, judging by mountains that lie to either side of it, and you Edinborg, an older building that has served crously inappropriate funk and soul bleating out the amount of beer being shared. Dóri Hemm get the impression that they are Ísafjörður’s a variety of functions throughout its chequered of the monitors between bands, either that or had mysteriously vanished, and in his place bossy, overprotective parents, encouraging it to past, was about as perfect a setting as you could Halldór Hermannsson, the doddering senior were two intensely irritating women who ad- shun outside contact as they loom intimidat- find for Aldrei Fór Ég Suður. A ramshackle citizen who rambled onstage between the first dressed the crowd with enough sickening con- ingly over any visitors it might receive. heap of exposed wooden and metal support few sets to keep the audience informed as to descension to turn what had once been a weird Even the layout of the town seems to music festival in a remote town into a school indicate that human beings were not intended assembly hall. Their power to annoy cannot be to exist there: An aerial photograph I spotted in “I doubt very many people were pleased with every- put into print in any shape or form; they once the lobby of the swimming pool clearly showed introduced a band as being so talented that “all that most of the town is built upon a spit of thing they saw at Aldrei Fór Ég Suður, but the sheer they had to do was sneeze to entertain people.” sand in the middle of the fjord, as opposed to A pity the same could not be said for them. the mountain foothills most of the northern experience of seeing such an insane melting pot con- I began to wonder how far you had run towns lie on. to escape stupidity as the day progressed into I spent Saturday morning with the musi- gregate in such an unlikely setting was a show in and mediocrity. The venue filled up with alcohol- cians who would be performing later that day equipped youths casting judgemental stares at and began to see how truly excited everyone of itself, an experience comparable to concept art at anyone not born in the immediate vicinity, acts was to be a part of this. It was almost as if they and attendants alike, and the musical quality all felt honoured to be deemed apart from and its unintentional best.” completely collapsed. I had sunk into a dejected above the common rabble of musicians who sulk by the time Siggi Björns finished his set to were steadily becoming the cancer of this coun- beams barely holding up distinctly inexpensive- what was going on, although I doubt his ‘an- be replaced by the equally uninspired Hermi- try. Everybody was innocent again, sweetened looking wooden planks would be a more fitting nouncements’ were news to anyone but himself. gervill. by the invitation to partake in something fresh description for it than calling it a building, and Halldór Hermannsson’s presence did, how- and unmolested by the vain, narcissistic drudg- it was a true joy to behold. ever, ensure that the bands announced by him The Best of Both Worlds ery of Reykjavík. I remember thinking that this is the way were very conscious of their punctuality. Dóri At that point, it had become obvious that the There were exceptions, however. I’m Icelandic music should be experienced, not Hemm, as he is known to those who know only thing that could possibly save us now was not going to name any names, but you could in some smoky, alcohol-sodden tramp house him, was, after all, the man who unplugged either someone with enough theatrical bombast truly see the difference between those who in the smelly part of town, or some neon-lit Hjálmar for extending their set by about 30 that it went beyond pretence, or someone so were there to be a part of it all and experience white trash cokehead brothel. It is impossible seconds last year. honestly convinced of his own power and great- something they normally were not privy to, and to adequately stress the fact that there is zero The local talent was also interesting. Weap- ness that quality and substance were rendered those who viewed Aldrei Fór Ég Suður as just profit to be made as an Icelandic musician, and ons were as unabashedly cheesy as ever with obsolete. Amazingly enough, both and more yet another opportunity for shameless self- the venues should reflect this. their superior pop-punk, guitar hero Rúnar were provided in what was without a doubt the promotion, those determined to be the best, Perhaps not so helpful in setting the scene Þórisson delivered a skilful and impressive best hour of the day. brightest and most original act of the festival was the early afternoon crowd. Tiny kids clus- show with a band that had rehearsed together Sweaty, disillusioned and irritable, I while also getting incredibly drunk. tered around the stage in awe of the only show only once, and Lack Of Talent were an utterly suddenly lost my face in awe at Prumpison, in town, their well-to-do parents trying to look mind-blowing mixture of cocky music, modest a collaboration between Ragnar Kjartans- The festival’s sole foreign contributor was hard cultured by watching (they were done in by performance and fiery excellence. It wasn’t all >>> continues on next page 20

it’s free

Issue 05, 2006 8 Page Listings Section in Your Pocket

son of Trabant and Mugison himself. They I was further dismayed when I checked the play their other gig in a neighbouring town itself, an experience comparable to concept art had completely abandoned even the concepts programme to discover that pompous revivalists later that day. Rass did their whole noisy-ob- at its unintentional best. of substance or originality with the brilliant Jet Black Joe were next, but at least one of them noxious-cocky-awesome-sneering thing, with The last image of the night’s concert per- Strákar Fíla Metal (Boys Dig Metal), a song had been delayed for whatever reason, and thus guitarist Björn Blöndal coming within an inch haps best demonstrates this artistic conundrum. for which Prumpison should receive untold we were spoon-fed the third and final exercise of braining a wheelchair-bound young man Jón Atli of Hairdoctor, inexplicably placed last volumes of awards, credit and women; a song in complete and spontaneous onstage awesome- with his guitar when he threw it into the audi- on the programme, sneered the final words of too good even for lyrics (the title of the song is ness. Reykjavík! were an immense fireball, a ence. The guitar then started a violent squabble the final song into the microphone, draw- simply repeated ad nauseam). sickeningly brilliant reconstruction of modern between the kids claiming to own it. So in ing mixed reactions from the partly dispersed Too bad they had to tarnish their name by rock so majestic and pure that it was difficult to other words, a fairly typical Rass show. crowd. Some hollered joyously, not necessarily letting Helgi Björns join them for the last two watch and even harder to describe. They, like everybody else who performed because they liked or even knew the song, but songs, one of which was his own utter-horror- Singer Bóas was the first thing to get one’s on that day, were very into their own thing, and were either appreciative, in a good mood or of-a-song Mér Finnst Rigningin Góð (I Like It attention, tearing off article after article of that seemed to be the only criterion connect- drunk off their ass. Others simply stood and When It Rains [for those fortunate enough not stared expectantly, waiting (what for?), judging: to have heard it, let me assure that the title is the worst audience an artist could ever wish for. the most bearable part]), but they were instantly “I won’t bother to introduce myself, you all know who Jón Atli himself stuttered, paralysed by the The Reykjavík Arts Festival outdone by the stunning shotgun blast of ego- crowd’s apparent schizophrenia, not knowing tistical genius that came next. I am,” Herbert Guðmundsson, of the unknown but re- what to do, where to go... and bounded head- Herbert Guðmundsson, the self-declared long into them, instantly disappearing in the In Reykjavík, summer gets ushered in in the best way can do in your spare time. on May 16th, the opera Le Pays at the Reykjavík Art progenitor of all good Icelandic music, was spected Icelandic rockabilly band KAN. chaos. Like Aldrei Fór Ég Suður, he was a good possible, with flocks of artists from around the world. The festivals require a guide and careful planning. To Museum May 27th, to say nothing of the ever-popular We spectacularly bitter as the frontman of ageing effort, a pleasing example of goodwill trying not Beginning May 12th, everything from Harold Pinter help, bilingual programmes are available at the downtown Are All Marlene Dietrich show by the Icelandic Dance and mostly forgotten rockabilly outfit KAN, to succumb to the scornful world of ignorant lectures to Bulgarian vocal choirs to Anders Widmark library and various public buildings, and there is a website Company, and performances by Mugison and Benni kicking off their set by saying, “I disagree. I clothing as he defied gravity with his desper- ing the impressively diverse acts that had been judgements and unfair hype, but it would seem concerts, from South African vocalist and humanitarian with some English on it (www.listahatid.is). We can Hemm Hemm. If you have a dedicated genre in the arts, own an ice cream store in Reykjavík and I hate ate bounds and scrambles and provided the gathered for the festival (said diversity was ad- that they both fell over themselves (very literally Miriam Makeba’s final European performance to make our guess as to the highpoints: Miriam Makeba’s you’ll find a star performer. the fucking rain.” perfect visual aid to the searing madness that is mittedly not universal: There were, for example, so, in Jón Atli’s case) in an attempt to make Minnesota humorist Garrison Keillor’s breakout movie performance at Laugardalshöll on May 20th, Mr. Keillor’s By Bart Cameron He then launched the band into three in- Reykjavík!’s music. But it was guitarist Haukur only technical differences between Weapons & everybody happy. role, all will be commonplace in Reykjavík, just things you show A Prairie Home Companion at the National Theatre credibly standard eighties rock songs, providing who made my day, personally. The entire band Jan Mayen and Rass & Nine Elevens); the feel- And so it is that, through no fault of its his own delayed backup vocals and singing with is obviously blessed with a wholehearted love ing that they had, each and every one, carved own, Aldrei Fór Ég Suður’s reputation some- a burning, fiery passion that belied his formal, of what they do, but Haukur positively glowed themselves a deep but narrow niche within their what overpowered the event’s actual occurrence, almost stately appearance. with it. respective genres. It was almost like they were so that the experience of being there will never “I won’t bother to introduce myself, you all Things rather died down after that, with representatives of a sort, bringing their own quite equal looking at the thing on paper. know who I am,” he boldly proclaimed after the local accordion company providing a bizarre distinctive fortes to a free-for-all playing field Ah well, perhaps next year we’ll be fortunate reading the names of the other band members interlude of sorts as people applauded thunder- that was in some way accessible to every type of enough to have two or three separate nights, off a sheet of paper, and then performed the ously to an accordion solo, but it was clear that music enthusiast in the country. each with its own distinct flavour, flair and ap- opening song again to roars of approval from the night had already peaked. Húsið Á Sléttun- Although this can hardly be viewed as a peal. Also, that way we could get more drinking the crowd. And yes, the roars may have been ni contributed further to the loss of momentum bad thing, the obvious problem with trying to done. ironic, but in the corner of the room, next to with very, very normal rock, remarkable only for appeal to everybody is that in the effort you the mixing desk, a young music journalist from the incredible vocals of Birgir Olgeirsson, who risk pleasing nobody. I doubt very many people Air Iceland flew the Grapevine to Ísafjörður. They the Reykjavík Grapevine wiped a glistening had also performed with the accordionists. were pleased with everything they saw at Aldrei fly from Reykjavík to Ísafjörður twice a day. Tel: teardrop from his cheek as he realised that he Jet Black Joe were affable in their own Fór Ég Suður, but the sheer experience of see- 570 3030. www.airiceland.is would never bear witness to such a charismatic insipid way, but were evidently reluctant to ing such an insane melting pot congregate in performer for the rest of his days. expend too much of the energy they’d need to such an unlikely setting was a show in and of Music and nightlife events usually start around culbuto, the Brazilian dance company Thomas Baz, doddi and co. Páll óskar’s annual eurovision extrava- 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at 01:00 Grupo corpo, icelandic mezzo-soprano Kaffi Hljómalind ganza on weekdays and much, much later on weekends. Guðrún Jóhanna ólafsdóttir and Spanish NASA For those just wanting to party, the pubs and Barcelona vs. arsenal on the big screen, guitarist f.J. Jáuregui clubs don’t get crowded until after midnight on followed by the house dJ eurovision on the big screen weekends, although Thursday is a semi-official Reykjavík City Theatre (also broadcast live Prikið Prikið night out. on RÚV) Compiled by Paul F. Nikolov. [email protected] coco rosie hraun SaTurday - 13 may NASA Rósenberg friday - 5 may Palli (from maus) halli reynir and Bjartmar Guðlaugs Two troubadours: Gotti and eisi, fol- Rósenberg lowed by dJ Georg dJ Baldur Bar 11 Hressó Kaffibarinn Bogomil font ThurSday - 18 may dJ rikki G halli reynir performs new material NASA an evening of jazz with Þóra Björk Sólon (downstairs) Rósenberg dJ rikki G Rósenberg dJ heiðar austmann Palli (from maus) Sólon (downstairs) dJ alfons X Sólon (upstairs) Bar 11 dJ Brynjar már Kaffibarinn Gulli (from ósóma) Touch, followed by dJ Johnny Sólon (upstairs) eurovision warmup featuring óli Brá and Bar 11 Hressó rass, followed by dJ Teddy anna hjörtur Prikið Bulgarian voices angelite (choir) Þjóðviljinn Prikið Hallgrímskirkja, starts at 16:00 Celtic Cross The motion Trio (a Polish accordion mát band) midnight concert: Benni hemm hemm lemon Purpose play mellow blues Hressó NASA and The Big Band Kaffi Hljómalind dJ Palli Steinars Iðnó mát, followed by dJ Johnny Sólon (downstairs) SaTurday - 6 may Hressó magni and co. play the acoustic guitar Sunday - 21 may Köngulóarbandið, followed by dJ maggi Bones Brigade (uSa), raw material, Sólon (upstairs) Six icelandic Pianists Play Schumann Hressó Gavin Portland, The deathmetal Super- Joanna newsom Ýmir halli reynir performs new material squad and oak Society Somewhere on the mean streets of Akra- Fríkirkjan (Free Lutheran Church) Bulgarian voices angelite (choir) Rósenberg nes. E-mail: [email protected] for Hallgrímskirkja, starts at 16:00 dJ night (connected to the manchester the precise location (which is apparently a friday - 19 may la Strada – The music of nino rota concert) garage). hraun Hafnarborg, starts at 17:00 euroviSion niGhT Nasa The king (or, perhaps more aptly, queen) of kitsch himself, Páll Óskar, is Ice- Benni Rósenberg The reykjavík chamber orchestra cele- dJ alfons X Kaffibarinn Árni Sveins brates mozart’s 250th birthday land’s #1 Eurovision fan and expert. He’s arguably the country’s main authority on Kaffibarinn midnight concert: The diva and the Jaz- Kaffibarinn Langholtskirkja, starts at 20:00 everything related to the contest, and even participated on behalf of Iceland with Þjóðviljinn zman (Sólrún Bragadóttir and Sigurður a memorable BDSM-inspired performance back in 1997. Expect loud revelries Gin and Tonic night with friskó, dJ whether Sylvía Nótt, Iceland’s representative this time around, wins or loses. Celtic Cross flosason) Benni and much more TueSday - 23 may may 20th, nasa. The house opens at 23:00, but you can buy tickets the day before Gulli (from ósóma) Iðnó Prikið The rollercoasters at the same location between 13:00 and 16:00. Bar 11 mógadón mát, followed by dJ maggi The Icelandic Opera House, starts at 20:00 dJ Benni Rósenberg Hressó Prikið Sunday - 14 may dJ heiðar austmann Sólon TueSday - 9 may Six icelandic Pianists Play Schumann Joanna newsom dJ Kári Ýmir Fríkirkjan (Free Lutheran Church) Prikið The motion Trio (a Polish accordion band) SaTurday - 20 may wedneSday - 10 may NASA an evening of jazz with Kristín Bergs Rósenberg monday - 15 may dJ Jón “the cook” mýrdal dJ cacoon Prikið Prikið Sigga and Steini ouk Society Kaffi Hljómalind Joanna newSom Kaffi Hljómalind a Prairie home comPanion ThurSday - 11 may TueSday - 16 may wiTh SmoG and SlowBlow What is arguably the best-known radio variety show in America is coming to Ice- Newsom, interviewed in this issue, has one of the most distinctive vocal presences land. Garrison Keillor, who is the subject of an upcoming movie about his life and dJ andrés dJ Kári in music today—which often overshadows her unique and compelling song writing. the show he created in the seventies, will be performing new live material in front Sólon (downstairs) Prikið Often, her songs incorporate tight, catchy melodies and the rhythm you hear in old of an estimates audience of five million listeners. a Prairie home companion with as yet magni and co. play the acoustic guitar folk tunes. Smog, also a key innovator with an unusual take on the folk tradition, has MUSIC may 16th at The national Theatre Sólon (upstairs) unannounced icelandic musicians. a devoted following in Iceland. Slowblow, Nói Albinoi director Dagur Kári’s music National Theatre project, are Icelandic, but they only play at moments like these—when all the stars hoffman, followed by dJ Gulli (from are properly aligned. Ósóma) wedneSday - 17 may may 16th and 18th at fríkirkjan. Prikið menn Ársins ling with attempts to mend broken family members. It is based on a variety of Icelan- play on German transvestite Charlotte The reykjavík ties before it is too late. dic folk stories, but also includes references Von Mahlsdorf, performed by popular Hressó city Theatre to more modern media such as movies and Icelandic actor Hilmir Snær Guðnason. mike Pollock plays the blues The outdoor music festival in Reykjavik is coming up! a crime against disco television. Don’t be put off by the title, it’s Rósenberg On the main stage: Gary Owen’s take on club life. just the punchline from an old Icelandic a Perfect wedding joke. The akureyri friday - 12 may Icelandic translation of the comedic play hunger Theatrical company mógadón by Robin Hawdon. A play on eating disorders, written by virkjunin Rósenberg Grapevine columnist Þórdís Elva Þor- Also known as Das Wek, by award-win- little Shop of horrors marlene dietrich valdsdóttir Bachman. ning playwright Elfriede Jelinek. mát, followed by dJ Johnny Icelandic translation of the musical by A play examining the work of the legen- Hressó Alan Menken and Howard Ashman. dary actress during World War 2. Features naglinn eight women Pimps ‘n’ hoes night with friskó, óli contributions from Slovenia, France and Tragicomedy by comedian Jón Gnarr. Icelandic translation of a farcical comedy The ladybird by Robert Thomas hjörtur and anna Brá Belgium. Icelandic translation of this Vassily Sigarev Prikið miKe aTTacK play. Pétur Gautur dJ Brynjar már ronia the robber’s daughter The all caps are on purpose. This is a one Icelandic translation of the children’s Icelandic version of the Henrik Ibsen play. Sólon man play with an unusual plot: A man classic by Astrid Lindgren. is thrown onto a stage and required to The icelandic opera Gulli (from ósóma) perform standup on comand. Not much Bar 11 Standup comedy else seems to be known in advance, but Broadway little Shop of horrors the author of the concept and the actor mike and Jack The comedic stylings of Þorsteinn G., Icelandic translation of the musical by portraying the hapless individual are one Celtic Cross Steinn Ármann and Björk J. le Sing Alan Menken and Howard Ashman. Same and the same: Kristján Ingimarsson. A combination of dinner and a show; here cast as in the Akureyri version. Bones Brigade (uSa), fighting Shit and who wants to find a million krónur? the waiters are also the performers. morðingjar Icelandic translation of a comedy by Ray To find out where, e-mail: gagnaugadhc@ Cooney. The national Theatre dance yahoo.com - the party starts at 18:00 of iceland iðnó opening ceremony of reykjavík arts On the other stages: See www.id.is for an up to date list of

festival, featuring the motion Trio from THEATre The Belgian congo MUSIC June 2. - 4. now i would laugh if i wasn’t dead! i’m my own woman events by the Iceland Dance Company. cracow, the french street artist mr. An Icelandic play by Bragi Ólafsson, dea- A play geared towards younger audience Icelandic translation of Doug Wright’s CAFÉ RESTAURANTS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Café Victor 22 Pravda 25 Ölstofan 28 Kaffibrennslan 31 34 Argentína 37 Tapas 44 Bæjarins Bestu Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstræti 9 Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata f]logjc Krua Thai Laugavegur 118 A very nice “grandma” style café. Subter- Spelled with a C rather than with the more Pravda is one of the larger clubs/bars in There are no tricks to this one. You know Kaffibrennslan manages to be just a nice, Tryggvagata 14 Argentina is something in the direction of For those with a bit of money and time on Their menu is simple: It consists of Coke ranean, as all traditional coffee shops traditional K in order to be more cosmo- downtown Reykjavík. It’s divided between what you want and you know what you’ll “normal” place to go to, and a place to be South American-steakhouse-goes-fine- their hands, the evening is well spent at and hotdog. And nothing else. Ask for Roma, at the far end of the main street It’s easy when you know what you’re do- should be. This place makes you feel politan. This ploy seems to be working, as two floors and also separately into the get when you enter this simple, straight- seen at, surprisingly enough both at the dining-in-Reykjavík. It was the first res- Tapas, where you can while away the eve- one with everything, and you’ll get a dog Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house, ing: good food for a reasonable price. To warm, both with its atmosphere and the the bar has become a hangout for foreign- Pravda Bar and the Pravda Club. The forward pub. We are talking about drink- same time. A wide variety of beverages, taurant around to offer steaks by weight, ning having course after course of wonder- in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remou- and one of the best take-away places in make it easier for the rest of us, they have generosity of the coffee refills. ers. The Viking ship sitting on top of the club section of Pravda is ideal for dancing, ing beer. Known as the hangout for the both bistro menu and a terrace outside the and it focuses on the beef – but they know ful miniature dishes served. If you don’t lade (don’t ask), fried and raw onion. The town. It almost feels unnatural that all their menu outside with images in colour building might also add to the appeal. The while the bar section is somewhat more intellectual circles of Reykjavík. bar when the weather allows it. The iced their whale, sheep and reindeer as well. feel like getting up right away afterwards, standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow the tempting cookies, cakes and other and numbers. Just say the number and eat crowd is very mixed, both in origin and quiet and chilled out, with occasional live coffee beverage is a delight. there’s also a lounge. it tastes better. sweet things that are calling your name on the food. age, and so is the music. jazz and sometimes reggae. the shelves are actually quite reasonably priced.

2 Ráðhúskaffi 9 Kaffitár 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Thorvaldsen 29 Glaumbar 32 Tveir Fiskar 35 Vín og Skel 38 Sægreifinn 45 Hlölla Bátar City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 Tryggvagata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata By Ingólfstorg Ráðhúskaffi inside the Reykjavík City Expanded and improved, this is the down- Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The recently expanded Cultura is located Posh as the fifth circle of hell. DJs on One of the few proper sports bars in Reyk- Seafood restaurant, although they also do If you like fresh seafood and are in the A place to go for the local touch, even if The first sub sandwich shop in Iceland, Hall is a comfortable choice for the view town store for one of the country’s finest lunch menu, they serve brunch during the in the same building with the Intercultural Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive javík, so you can go and watch whatever land-based animals. At lunchtime you can mood for something a little different, this usually a place recommended with this opened in 1986, Hlölla Bátar has a large over Tjörnin, especially recommended on coffee importers. While anything here is weekends, and the kitchen is open until Centre. A good value menu, friendly before 12 if you want to avoid the queue. game happens to be on the TV screens. have a three-course meal for 2,300, which cosy but ambitious new restaurant just argument instantly loses the exotic. Still, selection of subs filled and named with the so-called window weather days – the good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly 22 daily. After that the beat goes on, and service and settings that allow you to ei- Civilian attire is looked down upon. Do The establishment is basically based isn’t too bad, all things considered. The might fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid, I’d try this one. Sægreifinn (Sea baron) is creativity and imagination. Brave souls days that are beautiful, as long as you stay remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an you can check the end results in photos ther sit down and carry on discussions, or not expect to get in wearing hiking boots. around the bar, so you won’t have to go a chef has been awarded the Medal of the lobster and other creatures of the deep a combination of a fish store and a... well, might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rub- indoors. Also art exhibitions, 80m2s of espresso drink with lime and Tabasco. published the day after on their website dance the night away – tango on Wednes- long way for a drink. Open until five, and Order of the White Rose by the President predominate the menu here. There is no not exactly a restaurant but a place that ber boat), or go local and choose Sýslu- miniature Iceland and municipal politics, www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try days starting with free lessons from 20 to has a reputation for late night partying. of Finland. smoking in the restaurant, but if you want serves prepared food, located in a harbour mannabátur (sheriff sub) with lamb filling. all conveniently under the same roof. Vegamót and vice versa. 21:00. to have a go at sitting outside there are warehouse. Smell of fish, view over the fleece blankets provided. harbour, old man that looks exactly like an Icelandic fisherman should. What’s not to love?

3 Grái Kötturinn 10 Segafredo 17 B5 39 Shalimar 46 Nonnabiti DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 THE REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 Grái Kötturinn (The grey cat) is a cosy With McDonalds long departed from B5 is a newly opened bistro with a Scandi- Prides itself on being the northernmost The owner is a miser who charges ad- place, and that’s why it’s a shame that it’s the centre of Reykjavík, we got Italian navian focus on the menu. Don’t be fooled SPOTthis Indian restaurant in the world. The daily ditionally for everything, but this is almost quite often closed when we knock on their chain Segafredo, which isn’t a bad trade- by the impressive collection of design Hafnarstræti 44 special, comprised of two dishes on your certainlyDji^c>XZaVcY the best junk food in the Greater  door and peer through the window later off. The staff are expert baristi, and, even classics that you see in the window when 33 plate, goes for roughly 1,000 ISK. But Reykjavík area. The subs are great, none in the evening. Don’t follow our example though Iceland is proud of its coffee, no- passing by – it’s neither cold nor overly we recommend the chicken tikka masala, of that Subway commitment to healthy and go during the daylight, it’s especially body quite tops the Segafredo latte. expensive, but rather a cozy place with Austurstræti 46 42 known to be highly addictive. living, and they probably contribute sig- popular during the morning hours. friendly service. 39 10 nificantly to the ever-increasing “size” of 26 the nation. They also serve burgers and 6 sandwiches, and have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankastræti17 43 Ingólfsstræti BARS 'N' BISTROS 11 3 4 Kaffi Hljómalind 11 18 Rósenberg 30 23 40 Við tjörnina 47 Quiznos Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 Lækjargata Hverfisgata A peaceful café with perfect windows for Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club 47 24 20 One of the best-known fish restaurants A new branch of the American Quiznos Laugavegur19 people-watching and a lot of daylight. Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat- in town, with old instruments lining the in Iceland, it also kind of rocks. The cook has entered the thriving downtown sub Hljómalind is run by a non-profit organi- urday nights, but it seems to have more walls. People go there for conversation 5 14 is Súkkat member and Megas sidekick market, and it’s you, our dear, hungry sation and it only serves organic & fair lives than one, since in the day it’s a cof- and listening to music rather than danc- Gunni. Foodwise, they’re known for in- reader who gains from it. A good selection trade products. ing. The place tends to have jazz or blues- Skólavörðustígur13 novative fish dishes made from a variety of tasty subs, but also sandwiches, salads, feehouse and in the evening (weeknights) 16 8 they have a decent menu as well, and an type music, and is developing a bluegrass Iggy Pop came to Iceland and played a international attention, Ólafur Elíasson’s 12 of rare fish and shellfish and related raw soup of the day. This is Quiznos first -“>ÊV >À“ˆ˜}Ê scene. museum. So did Juliette Lewis. Not that 2004 show, for example. The biggest draw 25 materials. European restaurant, your response will art exhibition on the walls to finish the 48 package with an artsy touch. we’re starstruck, but it says something for a non-rock event, though, is the annual decide how many more will come East. Ãi>vœœ`ÊÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>˜ÌÊ that the city of Reykjavík uses its gorgeous Iceland Academy of the Arts student show, Klapparstígur harbour museum for the hippest of rock which opens May 6th. Ü ˆV ʜvviÀÃÊÌ iÊLiÃÌÊ shows, along with art exhibits worthy of ˆ˜Êvœœ`Ê>˜`Ê܈˜i° FAST FOOD 5 Mokka 12 Oliver 19 Grand Rokk 38 41 48 First Vegetarian Skólavörðustígur 3a Laugavegur 20a Smiðjustígur 6 32 Aktu Taktu (Á næstu grösum) Kaffi Mokka is the oldest café in Reykja- Oliver is one of the biggest hits in town As the Viking style garden and logo ac- Skúlagata 15 Laugavegur 20b vík, dating back to the 1950s. It’s the place at the moment. Good news for the early curately signal, this is no place for the 31 with dark, smoky atmosphere and great birds: they open at 8 in the morning with weak— yes, chess bars are that tough. The drive-in destination in 101 Reykjavík, Used to be called One Woman Restau- numbers of loyal customers. Their waffles an extensive brunch menu, staying chic all Even if the downstairs atmosphere can 37 29 Aktu Taktu is busy all day and all night. rant, as there was always the same woman are best in town. Seriously. day long, until late - always crowded, with feel a bit ominous at times, it’s one of the 27 The burgers never disappoint, and the working there. Has new owners and a an everlasting queue outside especially best venues for live music in town. Chess, 15 caramel shakes are a local favourite. If larger staff, but the theme is still vegetar- towards weekend nights. Their Mediter- beer and rock’n’roll. 45 Austurstræti George Lucas ever makes his proposed ian, with one vegan and one wheat-free /i“«>À>Ã՘`ÊÎ]£ä£Ê,iގ>ۈŽ ranean menu, served in huge portions, is Icelandic Graffiti, Aktu Taktu will have a dish always on offer. The only vegetarian /i\Êxx£ÊnÈÈÈ guaranteed to make you smile. Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti central role. restaurant licensed to carry beer and wine. ‡“>ˆ\Êۈ`̍œÀ˜ˆ˜>Jȓ˜iÌ°ˆÃ ti Hverfisgata 40 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 41

6 Ömmukaffi 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 35 42 Pizza King 49 Kebabhúsið Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 4 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 Tjarnargata 34 Crystal Shop and A coffee house where you can find all Kaffibarinn is Cool Hip Reykjavík. Blur’s The rock bar on Laugavegur is one of the Þingholtsstræti Yes, you can go here late at night and Apart from the multicultural experience kinds of people - all ages, all nationalities, Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, late-night party venues in town. You’ll feel 7 grab the best pizza in town, but it is also that comes with eating the Icelandic ver- Spiritual Gallery with very friendly, down-to-earth feel to probably figuring it was cheaper than the floor jumping every Friday and Sat- Bergstaðastræti home to the best lunch specials, and food sion of kebab, which comes with beef it. Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and buying drinks all the time. This place has urday, and it’s neither you nor an earth- Frakkastígur so good you’d eat it sober, something you and lamb, or falafel, which comes with Crystal, Reiki and Spiritual healing. the lunch menu. Try their speciality, the managed to serve as a 101 living room quake. Live concerts and a nice foosball Óðinsgata can’t say for most food in Reykjavík. Plan marinara sauce and pickled cucumber, this Detox System foot spa (South) African latte. for quite a while already, with DJs often table upstairs. 1 on a 15-minute wait during lunch, so it’s eatery has the best fish and chips in town treatment available also. playing on the weeknights, with volumes best to call or stop at a local bookstore or and a menu that would satisfy the United Icelands largest minirals rising towards the weekend. Friday and souvenir shop while your pizza is cooked. Nations. and crystals shop. Saturday nights serve as the weekly peaks of claustrophobia. Barónsstígur

7 Babalú 14 Sirkus 21 Hressingarskálinn 24 Prikið 27 Gaukur á Stöng 30 Litli Ljóti Andarunginn 33 Hornið 36 Tjarnarbakkinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Vitabar Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Tryggvagata 22 Lækjargata 6b Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 The youngest coffee house in Reykjavík “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and The celebrated site of one of the more Used to be the oldest continuously run- Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its early They have a fish buffet for 2,500ISK Means “the corner” and the place lives Above the Iðnó theatre, so it’s good place The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its is also the homiest. Almost like a living games,” quote the bard. Elements of this famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ ning traditional coffeehouse on the street, twenties. During the day it’s a pool pub every evening, with the magic words up to its name. This is actually the oldest to go before shows, or during if you prefer in 1834. If you are particular about your hamburgers. A burger with fries for 500 room away from home, Babalú keeps it odd and alternative cultural institution coffeehouse/ restaurant brings a European but, after a change of clientele, they now and on weekday evenings there are live “eat-as-much-as-you-can” floating in the Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the bread this is about the best place in central is one of the best meal deals in town, but simple, quiet and cozy with coffee and the also include an upstairs that looks and flair to the city. That is until about 11, cater to a younger crowd. A diner during rock concerts by a mix of mainstream and air. They also have an Icelandic media 25th year, which says something about window you get nice view of the pond. Reykjavík to stock up on a variety of fresh- special mention must go to the Forget- occasional crêpe. smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market when things get to rockin’, and you can see the day and a nightclub on weekends, underground bands. On weekends there person working there every now and then, the scene here before then. Excellent It’s not a bad place to try one of Iceland’s ly baked loaves – they also do a particularly Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extrava- Gjafir Jarðar. and a queue on weekend nights that looks the true character of Reykjavík. you can also borrow games there, such as is usually a lot of action with cover bands so watch out for a curly haired, friendly quality pizza, pasta and salads—all priced culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of moist and juicy version of the ever popular ganza. Ingólfsstræti 2 never-ending. backgammon or chess. playing everything from Britney to the gentleman called Egill. affordably. those rare traditional treats that does not vínarbrauð pastries. 101 Reykjavík Beatles... come as a shock to the uninitiated. Tel: 517-2774 [email protected] www.gjafirjardar.is FILM tv & RADIO Scary Movie4 Háskólabíó 20:00 V forendetta 17:45, 20:00,22:20 Firewall 16:00, 18:00,20:00,22:10 Failure ToLaunch 16:00, 18:00,20:00,22:00 Scary Movie4(VIP) 21:00, 22:00 16:00, 17:00,18:00,19:00,20:00, Scary Movie4 Opens May5 Mission: ImpossibleIII Sambíóin –Álfabakki 18:00, 20:15,22:10 Failure ToLaunch 17:30, 20:00,22:00 The InsideMan 18:00, 20:00,22:40 Scary Movie4 Opens May5 Mission: ImpossibleIII Sambíóin -Kringlan traditional music. ing talkshows,radiosoapoperas,and Government radiostationoftenfeatur Rás 1 RADIO strong fromSkagafjörðursince1992. Iceland’s countrymusicstation,stillgoing Kántríbær over thecountry. Christian broadcastingstation,availableall Lindin ting-edge releases. Iceland’s rockstation,oftenplayingcut XFM rock gearedtowardsurbanclubbingyouth. One ofthe“hnakkistöðvar,”playingpop- FM 957 Office pop,easylistening. Létt 96.7 Talk radiostation,inIcelandic. Talstöðin landic and foreign music from decades past. Iceland’s oldies station, featuring both Ice Útvarp Saga Light popmusic. Bylgjan news discussionprogrammes. tion, featuringavarietyofmusicaswell More progressivegovernmentradiosta Rás 2 (91.9FM) (102.9FM) (98.9FM) (95.7FM) (90.9FM) (96.7FM) (100.7FM) (99.4FM) - - - - Einn. SundaysthroughoutMay. voluminous cataloguethatweek. to seewhathasbeenpulledfromhis look through the Sunday evening listings stuff, youcoulddoworsethanhavinga works, orhisrecent,lessfunny,funy funny stuff’orhismoreseriouslater listings. Whetheryoulikehis‘early, his magicallyappearsontheirprogram tion, aseverySundaynightafilmof of diminutivestatureandshakydisposi kind oftributemonthtothisfilmgreat life. SkjárEinnseemstobehavingsome the samesentenceallthatofteninyour words WoodyAllenandmarathonin Let’s faceit,you’renotgoingtoseethe Woody AllenMarathon you missedthebeginningofthisseason,or questions for every half answer they give. If viewers aroundthewholetime,raisingtwo on. Thewritingstaffseemstojustjerkits band ofcastawaysthattheshowfocuses ally nothingaboutthecircumstancesof into thesecondseasonwestillknowvirtu re-dose foraweek.Thesadpartisthatfar just underanhouratatimeandyoucan’t ate ofthemasses,thisstuffonlylastsfor waves ofsoundandlight.Forgettheopi form ofcrackcocaine,convertedinto television programmebutahighlypotent Unbeknown tomost,Lostisnotactuallya Lost Tuesdays, 23:00;Stöð2 just downloadthemtocatchup. and mysterywhereit’snotillegal,youcan and youliveinafarawaylandofwonder there. Ifyoumissedthefirstfewepisodes, action andthecompellingplotlinesarestill test one’ssuspensionofdisbelief,butthe real-time formatmaybestartingtoreally its fifthseason,theshowwithunique breaks looseforexactly24hours.Nowin periods oftimebutonceinawhileallhell life seemstobeveryuneventfulforlarge if Jackhascaughtontothefactthathis dramatic effect.Youjusthavetowonder cougars andjustplaingetshottodeathfor cocaine baronsfromIraq,stalkedby napped bychemical-agent-wielding man. Chancesareyou’llwindupkid whatever youdodon’tgetclosetothe Jack Bauercanachieveanything,but 24 TV 17:40, 20:00,22:30 Inside Man Laugarásbíó 20:00, 22:20 Running Scared 16:00, 18:00,20:00 Failure toLaunch 16:00, 18:00 Icelandic) Little RedidingHood(dubbedin 17:40, 20:00,22:30 Inside Man Sambíóin –Keflavík 17:50 Syriana 20:00, 22:00 Failure toLaunch 18:00, 20:00,22:00 Scary Movie4 Sambíóin –Akureyri 18:00, 20:00 The Matador 17:45, 20:00,22:10 Firewall 18:00, 19:00,20:00,21:00,22:00 Skjár - - - - you… well,youknowwhoare).With a spotoffootball(orsoccer,forthose your favouriteteam,orevennation,play have topayanarmandalegjustwatch You mayrecallthedayswhenyoudidn’t Ensku mörkin TV inIcelandic Mondays, 20:15;Stöð2 accent. from breakingintoafullNewZealand also seemstobestrugglingkeephimself Kiwi tryingtosoundAmericanandhe with thehost’sAmazingAccent,he’sa And ifyouwerewonderingwhatwasup it’s good,solid,mindlessentertainment. boards isdefinitelytooovertattimes,but trived, andthesuckinguptolocaltourist that contestantsfacemaybeabitcon amusing contestantortwo.Thechallenges once inawhiletheyevenhaveslightly interesting localesandexoticcountries race aroundtheworldyougettoseelotsof and weareinclinedtoagree.Sinceit’sa current generationofsuchprogramming, sucks considerablylessthantherestof Many wouldarguethatthisrealityshow The AmazingRace 23:10; RÚV Mondays, 22:25,withrerunsThursdays, called theInternet. episodes maybeavailableonsomething the depthsofunderworldclaimolder want toseeseasonone,darkrumoursfrom Mission: Impossible III Smárabíó 20:00 When aStrangerCalls 20:00, 22:30 The HillsaveEyes 17:30, 20:00,22:30 Prime 18:00 Icelandic) Little RedidingHood(dubbedin 18:00, 20:00,22:00 language version) Little RedidingHood(originalEnglish- Regnboginn 16:00 Ice Age2(dubbedincelandic) 22:00 Lucky NumberSlevin 20:00, 22:20 Running Scared 16:00, 18:00,20:00 Failure toLaunch 16:00, 18:00 Icelandic) Little RedidingHood(dubbedin (FAPremiershipRoundup) - 18th. FinalsareMay20th. boring-events department. fun-entertainment-during-terminally- Jackson’s breastinthecontroversial-but- dictable thatshecouldovertakeJanet Nótt –awomansofunnyandunpre entertaining Icelandicperformer,Sylvía interest. Instead,wehaveagenuinely out, duetoaseenpossibleconflictof fare well.Thisyear,GisliMarteinnis point, asIcelandicperformersdidnot ous commentaryusedtobethehigh Marteinn, theattimesoffensivehumor hosted bythepoliticaldynamoGisli required viewinginIceland.Typically The EurovisionSongContestisusually Eurovision Semi-Finals good forthesamemixtureoffluffandse and mainrivalofKastljósonRÚV.It’s Iceland TodayisStöð2’snewsmagazine Ísland ídag day at22:45 Sundays, 16:00,withrerunslaterthatsame for itandit’sbetterthannothing. duck onasinkingship,you’vealreadypaid in anhour-longroundup.Likearubber highlights fromalltheweekend’smatches us downcompletely.Youcanstillseethe matches live,butatleastRÚVhasn’tlet shower afterwardsifyouwanttoseethe you needapintoflubebeforehandand the mediamarkettodaybeingwhatitis, that hour. can stomachanythingotherthanfluffat up andafterallit’snotlikemostpeople cameras whenmostofusarejustwaking having tobesocheerfulinfrontofthe all bad;youhavetofeelsorryforthem humanly possibletosustainthem.It’snot for longerthanyou’dthinkitwouldbe and extendlong-deadconversationson to thehostsscrambleforblandtopics enough tobetolerableatthathour.Listen ing showisjustvacantandmeaningless two hours,Iceland’sfirstearlymorn Starting atanintolerable7amandlasting Ísland íbítið and generalentertainmentvalue. when itcomestohard-hittingquestions rious stories,butstillfallsshortofKastljós 22:00 The HillsaveEyes 20:00 version) Ice Age2(originalEnglish-language 18:00 Icelandic) Little RedidingHood(dubbedin 20:00, 22:25 Inside Man Borgarbíó 22:00 When aStrangerCalls 20:00, 22:30 The HillsaveEyes 17:30, 20:00,22:30 Prime (Luxury) 20:00, 22:30 Prime 16:00, 18:00,20:00,22:00 language version) Little RedidingHood(originalEnglish- Opens May5 times. updates onnew films andshowing Visit www.kvikmyndir.isforregularly (IcelandToday) (Icelandinthesmallhours) RÚV May - - - -

ART Permanent Exhibition The Manandaterial Opening hours:10-16everyday Sigtún Ásmundarafn Steingrímur Eyfjörð 21.04-03.06.2006 Opening hours:Thu.-Sat.13-17 Hverfisgata 101 Gallerí Joseph Kosuth Ilia ogEmiliaKabakov 02.04-05.06.2006 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Open everyday10-17 Flókagata Reykjavík Museum Kjarvalsstaðir Academy. Students fromthefirstyearof Open Thu.-Sun.14-18 Laugavegur 23 Art academyexhibitionspace Gyllinhæð Performance Installation Magnús Árnason 06.05-20.05.06 Free entrance Opening hoursvary. www.this.is/birta/ Grundarstígur 21 Dwarf Gallery Björg Örvar 28.04-21.05.2006 Free entrance Sat.-Sun. 13-17 Open Fridays12-17 Ingólfsstræti 8 Gallerí Anima Downstairs: Twelvefemaleartists Upstairs: FinnbogiPétursson 19.05.06-01.07.06 ment Open Thu.-Sat.13-17andbyappoint Klapparstígur i Jónsson Permanent exhibition of the sculptor Einar www.skulptur.is Opening hours:Sat.-Sun.14-17 Eiríksgata Museum The EinarJónsson Ásmundur Sveinsson A retrospectiveexhibitionofworksby 8 gallerí Reykjavík. CIA.is, orvisittheirofficeatHafnarstræti16,101 Icelandic Art.Formoreinformation,visitwww. Prepared fortheGrapevinebyCentre

- Suðurgata 41 The NationalMuseum from TheIcelandicArtcademy. Group exhibitionofgraduatingstudents 06-25.05.2006 www.listsafnreykjavikur.is Open everyday10-17 Reykjavík Museum Hafnarhús tional GalleryofIcelandcollection) Landscape andFolklore Steingrímur Eyfjörð, Birgir Andrésson, 12.05-25.06.2006 www.listasafn.is Free entrance Opening hours:Tue.-Sun.11-17 Fríkirkjuvegur The NationalGallery Kees Visser 06-28.05.2006 Free entrance Open everyday13-17;closedonMondays Freyjugata 41 ASÍ rtMuseum Helgi Þórsson Downstairs 13.05-11.06.2006 Iceland) Ubo RoimeetsHumptyDumpty(in Hannes Lárusson 13.05-11.06.2006 www.this.is/klingandbang Free entrance Open Thu.-Sun.14-18 Laugavegur 23 Kling &Banallerí collection Works fromtheReykjavíkArtMuseum’s 16.06-03.09.2006 for children. A seriesofexhibitionsespeciallydesigned Let’s ookatArt 08.04-03.12.2006 Installations InmemoryofH.C.Andersen 08.07-10.09.2006

will bededicatedtothisremarkablecollaboration. New YorkartistKosuthwiththefatherofRussianconceptualismhintsa How universalandappealingistheDanishwriterHansChristianAnder AND ILYAEMILIAKABOV JOSEPH KUT A LIFEWORLD-

retrospective retrospective (fromtheNa

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new viewofhistory Archaeological researchandIceland’s Research Exhibitions: Invisible womenincelandicart The ArcHall: Roots ofthe“úntur” The NationalGalleryofPhotography: www.natmus.is Opening hours:daily10-17 Turpentine Ólafsson. works bytheIcelandicsculptorSigurjón The SigurjónÓlafssonMuseumexhibits www.lso.is Laugarnestangi 70 Museum Sigurjón Ólafsson Karin Sander Ceal Floyer 13.05-11.06.2006 www.safn.is Free entrance Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Open Wed.-Fri.14-18 SAFN Iceland, alongwithfiveIcelandicartists. The Supremes 14.05-04.06.2006 Free entrance Open Wed.-Sun.13-17 www.nylo.is Living ArtMuseum Healing Paintings Snorri Ásmundsson 29.04-26.05.2006 Ingólfsstræti 1a Næsti Bar countries. Drawings bychildrenfromNordic 14.04-21.05.2006 Open 12-17;closedonMondays Nordic House The MakingofaNation Permanent Exhibitions

W H E G M Ó T T J V B R J B

E O O U G E A I I R U - 19artistsfromoutsideof L A R C A R M H A G N E G Ð G G T N

N I N F N E Y I R O N I N R I U D R M Ú A N R N C B Ú R T o A N R A K E R A S B F P N E A O G L K O C E R P É L D D G N B J I O Á I U Í T N Ð A E A R E G r Ú U L H L sen? Thisexhibition,combiningtheforcesofgreat t theimpactAndersenhad.ThewholeofKjarvalsstaðir S A F É S R R S L S R E S I S S R L T E S S N k S N A O S I A S O T O N S N O R D N N O N N G I S N Ó S N s S S T O O T N I N R Akureyri: 06.05-25.06.2006 Homesick www.listasafn.akureyri.is/ Open from12-17.ClosedonMondays. Akureyri ArtMuseum Paintings Helgi Vilberg 06.05-20.05.2006 Opening hours:Fri.-Sat.13-18 Jónas ViðarGallery Þóra Sigurðardóttir Sólveig Aðalsteinsdóttir 29.04-21.05.2006 Brekkugata 35 Gallerí + Indíana Auðunsdóttir 29.04-21.05.2006 http://www.sudsudvestur.is/ 230 Reykjanesbær Hafnagata 22 Suðsuðvestur Keflavík: “Kvika úrbúri-sculptures” Örn Þorsteinsson 06-29.05.2006 www.hafnarborg.is Open 11-17,everydaybutTuesdays. Hafnarborg Hafnarfjörður: >>>Outside Reykjavík: Nína Tryggvadóttir 13.05-11.06.2006 www.turpentine.is Sat. 11-16 Open Tue.-Fri.12-18 b L G Þ K H R K K S R K G F A I I Ó O A R A A R R J A y G N W Ö I I G A R T R N B U S S N

R R I F N R T T R I R V N B Í N N Í I J H E A N Ð I E N O Á G S

N K I O L U N N G R N S A F E A C R R Ó G I I Ú N L G F E E N G P L A G B S R D . U U W É S E K U I S H E R Ð T www.gljufrasteinn.is O Ð R I

L E Ð R R Ð G U R T Ú M N I

A M N A U R I S B K U F D S R U R E B S N N S D Ó Ð R N U D O S D Ó S T D R Ó S N S S T I T S O T N O S I T S R T N O N I N O I R R N N Reykjavík Art Museum Grapevine Art Picks by Bart Cameron National Museum of Iceland

Rob Hornstra – Roots of the Rúntur A rúntur is the circle that kids and teenagers drive around villages and towns in Iceland – in America, we call it the strip. Hornstra’s provocative exhibition shows Iceland at its most vulnerable and human, as he follows teenagers from the most remote burghs on this lonely island. This isn’t just a chance to make fun of small town kids – the whole communities are on display, and Hornstra never plays them down. A beautiful exhibit. Graduation Exhibit for the Iceland Academy of Arts The lines go around the block when the class at the Iceland Academy of Arts put on their graduation shows. For a good reason, many of the projects, especially in the design department, will drive Gallerí Dvergur / Dwarf Gallery Gel Gallerí Reykjavík discussion for the whole following year and then some. What you see on the walls will likely be on album covers, appropriated into advertising campaigns, or simply be on more museum walls, for years to come. And this feels particularly exciting.

Akureyri Art Museum

Magnús Árnason – Mucus Dirk Leroux – Model for the Treeman The Dwarf Gallery is hitting the ground running with this engaging exhibition from While the small gallery forced Belgium artist Dirk Leroux to modify his project some- Magnús Árnason. Mucus feels like a cross between Where the Wild Things Are and what, the ambition of Model for the Treeman is obvious. Treeman looks like the notes, Homesick the Cremaster Cycle. He claims to have been inspired by David Attenborough’s visually drawings and sketches of a man obsessed with some key element of his past, or stuck in a Act I participating artists: Guy Ben-Ner (Israel), Chantal Michel (Switzerland), Nevin Aladag (Turkey), Katrín Sigurðardóttir (Iceland), Haraldur Jónsson (Iceland), Ólafur Árni Ólafsson & stunning nature documentaries – which are still popular in Iceland. moment of childhood. “Iceland is an appropriate place for this exhibit, as Iceland is like Libia Pérez de Silles Castro (Iceland/Spain)

ART a lost tree in the middle of an ocean,” he told us, and we of course agreed with him. He The exhibition in Akureyri forms the starting point of the HOMESICK Project, a series of exhibitions in cooperation with the CIA.IS – the Centre for Icelandic Art/ Akureyri Art Museum (Ice- also mentioned a butter lake. land), Platform Garanti Contemporary Art Centre Istanbul (Turkey) and the Centre for Contemporary Art (Israel). 30 31 GRAPEVINE’S PURCHASES THAT JUSTIFY EXISTENCE by gunnar Hrafn JÓnsson

Ministry for Foreign Affairs www.mfa.is

The Best Place to Buy a Xylophone Stimulating Hljóðheimurinn Sangitamaya Company Whether you are male or female you can probably get rid of some of that tension from your relationship by picking up a few slippery, vibrating, laced, by paul f. nikolov photo by gúndi leathery, tight, ribbed and/or pulsating items from one of Reykjavík’s adult- If you never leave Laugavegur to do your downtown shopping, And indeed, a few small wooden xylophones were being “This isn’t so much a musical instrument as it is a thera- themed stores. Amor on Skúlagata 40 or Dalvegur 16a is a good choice, so you might miss it – Hljóðheimurinn Sangitamaya or, as it’s unpacked as we spoke. peutic device,” Konráðsson explained. “You lie down in it, and are Tantra at Fákafen 11 and Venus at Freyjugata 1. They also accept orders colloquially known, “that music store with the sitar in the win- As a drummer, Konráðsson appears to have found the ideal someone else strums the strings. It’s been used for children with by phone and have online stores (amor.is, tantra.is and venus6.is), if you’re a dow.” And when you first walk in, instruments such as gongs, day job, and he was more than happy to demonstrate the use of mental disturbances.” kotos, didgeridoos and sitars are the first things you notice. But the Japanese war drum, djembas, the “sea drum” (a double-skin- Giving it a preliminary trial, I could definitely see the cal- bit too shy to go in person. Oh, and they have porn, too, but, honestly, sum- this store also features smaller and equally overlooked instru- ned drum with sand inside it) and an African goat skin drum ming effect. mer is coming, and it’s time to get out of the house. ments such as jaw harps, kazoos, tin whistles and bamboo flutes. with a surprisingly booming sound for its size that he speculated Sangitamaya is not an exclusively high-end store. There are You get the impression that in the very near future, we’ll be he might bring on stage with him some time. the aforementioned kazoos, jaw harps, xylophones and bamboo seeing some of these instruments gracing the stages of Reykja- Sangitamaya has already attracted the interest of some of flutes, and even some instruments for children. Particularly If you want to be one of the hip folks this summer, you might want to vík’s clubs. Iceland’s better-known musicians. After demonstrating a Shrute addictive were the “swing straws” – flexible plastic tubes that sport one of Ósama’s (indecent’s) amusing bilingual puns on your Brynjar Konráðsson, drummer for Future Future, showed box – a wooden, harmonium-like device – there was one musi- produce different tones when swung through the air at different chest. A shirt proclaiming “It’s hard to be kind” – with a picture of a us around the store while explaining something of the store’s cian in particular who sprang to mind. As if reading my mind, speeds – and the “boom wackers”, which are plastic tubes that sheep on it: surely that is minimalist humour at its best, or at least its history. Konráðsson asked me, “Guess who bought one of these?” produce different tones when struck on the ground. “We just opened the store last December,” he told us. “And “Björk?” I ventured. When asked if he thinks Sangitamaya could have an impact most minimal? A sheep, you see, is called a “kind” in Icelandic. Hours there are two others, in Austria and Switzerland. The owner, “Yes,” he said, smiling. So if you hear an old-fashioned squee- on the local music scene, Konráðsson was optimistic. of fun lie ahead as you explain this double meaning to confused travel- Eymundur, brings these instruments over from them.” zebox effect on a future song of hers, you’ll know where it came “I think so,” he said. “I think this store might add a more lers who just want the scary We had to ask how a store selling such obscure musical from. exotic flavour to the music scene in Reykjavík. I hope so, instruments was getting along. The most expensive instrument in the store (198,000 ISK) anyway.” sheep person to go away now. “We did pretty well in December,” Konráðsson explained. was a wooden semi-cylinder about a metre and a half tall. On Indecent “A lot of the people who come here are kindergarten teachers, the outer edge are two sets of strings – one playing in a high Hljóðheimurinn Sangitamaya, Grettisgata 7, Tel.: 551-8080 members of the symphony or people looking for a different sort register and the other in a low register – essentially playing only Open 15:00-18:00 weekdays and 12:00-15:00 weekends Clothes of birthday present. We had to order more xylophones.” two chords.

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=kZg[^h\ViV&*iZa/*)*&)%% DeZcZkZgnYVn[gdb&&id&, lll#i]_dYbZcc^c\#^h www.nylo.is 32 Between ISK 1000 Between ISK 2500 $ Under ISK 1000 $ $ and ISK 2500 $ $ $ and ISK 4000 $ $ $ $ Over ISK 4000 DINING, EATING & Bart Cameron and Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson GRUBBING on Reykjavík Dining Photos by Gúndi

When it came time to order I decided to Lord of the Flies started to have towards the kaffi keep it simple and order the nachos. Okay, so hereford end of the retreat. it had less to do with keeping it simple than What is there to explain about the special? brennslan it did with the fact that the place is famous steikhús For 1,900 ISK, you get a big pint of Viking for its tasty giant platter of ‘Super Nachos’ Beer, you get a big slab of ribs, properly Pósthússtræti 9, 101 Reykjavík. Laugavegur 53b, 101 Reykjavík. Tel.: 561-3600 with everything. The portion was nice and Tel.: 511-3350 prepared – Hereford doesn’t do the massive, hefty and the staff should get bonus points for pre-packed, curiously chicken-tasting ribs. serving them with bowls of extra condiments You also get French fries, some towels, and a $ $ rather than forcing people to rely on whatever $ $ big bowl of mayonnaise-covered vegetables, is thrown on the plate. However, there was which, if you’re in a place that serves massive Kaffi Brennslan has been around for a while, one problem. The cheese, a crucial element to Is it the ribs or the place? For whatever reason, slabs of ribs, you will likely not look twice at. and despite changing owners it has main- a nacho platter, I’m sure most people would Hereford Steikhús, despite the décor and the Ribs taste good. Beer tastes good. Add tained a healthy reputation for consistently agree, was decidedly unappealing. It had a most competent staff in Reykjavík, including two glasses of world-class Elijah Craig Bour- good food. Apart from being a restaurant, it’s rubbery consistency and didn’t really taste the single best bartender in town, is not the bon for the exclamation point. also a great coffee shop and a pretty good bar. like much. Thankfully there was cheese salsa, kind of place you go to impress anyone. Hon- As for visiting Hereford when it’s not rib This means that if you would like an after- regular salsa, sour cream and guacamole to estly, before you slam down a heaping portion day, there are virtues. The steak house caters dinner coffee, it’s going to be top-notch stuff make up for it – so it’s not like it was bland. of ribs and fries and head for the best whiskey to people who are particular as to how their and not something thrown together as an My friend went with one of the day’s spe- selection on Laugavegur, you’ll want to know steak is prepared, and distrustful of typical afterthought in the kitchen. The fact that they cials, grilled beef with brown sauce and salad. your company extremely well – we’re talking restaurants – despite an outstanding staff, the also have what must be the largest selection of It was actually a lot better than it sounds, but leaving the door to the bathroom open well. cooks demand that you write down exactly beer in Reykjavík, with several dozen brands while there was certainly nothing to complain But if you find those kinds of friends, how you want your steak done. All of which from all over the world on offer, also makes about, it wasn’t all that exciting of a dish. Hereford’s Wednesday rib special is the stuff makes sense when you have one or two Y- having a beer with your food a lot more spe- Having eaten a bit too much of his meat and of dreams – the carnivorous kind the kids in chromosomes. cial than it usually is. I had to reprimand my my nachos, I was left alone to pick a dessert. dining partner for trying to order an Icelan- Going with the pecan pie was definitely a dic brand, and under much duress he finally good move, although for my personal tastes it settled on one of the endless list of exotic teetered on the dry side. The Homey Restaurant on the Pond names: Cobra. It turned out to be an Indian Overall Kaffi Brennslan is a fairly priced brew, and we both agreed that it was a good, if establishment and a good place to go for top by gunnar hrafn jónsson photo by gúndi somewhat random, choice. The waitstaff were quality coffee, a wide variety of beer and a patient throughout this ordeal, and overall the selection of food that rarely disappoints but When you go out to experience fine dining at the steeper native to Iceland, just as practically all the other items on service was excellent. seldom thrills. end of the price scale, you often find that while the the menu seemed to be. Suffice to say both were brilliant; atmosphere may be stylish and the food glorious there I actually slurped the remains of the soup up from the is nothing particularly unique that seems to justify the bowl when no one was looking. Just as we were finish- price tag. Not so at Við Tjörnina, a top-class restaurant ing up, the head chef came out with a mischievous grin by the pond (the name literally means ‘by the pond’) that and two plates, each holding a divine portion of what specialises in Icelandic ambiance and the delicacies of the appeared to be garlic-sautéed lobster and scallop. It went sea. perfectly with the white wine that the friendly and help- As soon as you enter you know this is no ordinary ful waiter recommended. establishment. For one thing, it looks like a fancy version We were already sold on this being one of the best of the stereotypical Icelandic grandma’s house. The fur- meals of our lives when the main courses arrived – a niture and the décor are all more reminiscent of a well- honey-roasted spotted catfish in red wine sauce and to-do mid-fifties household than a restaurant, but it’s the another kind of catfish sautéed in butter. Both were architecture that really highlights this unique theme. It beyond words, cooked to perfection and seasoned by the really did used to be a well-to-do household and rather Gods. The red wine sauce may have been a tad thin for than totally remodel it and knock down the walls, it has my tastes, but that’s so petty it’s a bit like saying Gandhi been kept more or less intact. The result is a uniquely is your hero but you don’t like the bald look – a minor homey feel and a mix of privacy and intimacy; there are detail. only a couple of tables per room in just a few rooms. Lastly, the dessert didn’t let the rest of the meal down. I ordered the skyr, and much to my delight it was On the subject of the actual food and service, it’s equally served exactly the way my grandmother in Skagafjörður hard to comment without having it sound like a sales used to present it for special occasions. You get a small pitch: they are just that good. When we first arrived, my pitcher of liquid cream, a bowl of sugar and a cup full of friend and I were shown to a cosy living room where we skyr, peaches and Icelandic berries. The result is probably had some drinks sitting on ridiculously comfortable sofas the tastiest thing you could still call traditional Icelandic and chairs that looked to date back to at least the fifties. cuisine. On the other side of the table, my friend didn’t The music, while not from our generation, set the mood comment on the chocolate fudge cake so much as he perfectly. You get the distinct feeling that you’re being moaned in ecstasy. After trying a bite, and having a sip of set up to take away a fond memory, and it works like the his cognac, I agreed it was time to head back to the sofas charm that it is. for a bit. There we discussed such lofty topics as how it After we were seated and provided with bread that was possible to be this full and comfortable at the same seemed to be right out of the oven, we ordered a starter time, before vowing firmly to come back another day. of seafood soup and smoked guillemot, which is a bird

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34

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David Gray David Laugardagur 1. júlí 1. Laugardagur

whO The Wedding Present and Singapore Sling where

Grand Rokk

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others say they’re posers. At least they have very good with, addressed the audience. “We’re the semi-legend- júní 30. Föstudagur whEN Happy Trumps Cool influences and there’s nothing wrong with posing. ary Wedding Present.” Then he mumbled: “Well, it’s And a peculiar sex analogy closer Models do it all the time. They started out perform- all relative. Sorry it’s taken 20 years.” April 27th ing feedback and noise onstage but the audience didn’t Gedge seemed to be totally free of all arrogance. 2006 By Helgi Valur | Photo by Gústi have to wait long until the noise turned into hypnotic Learning “takk fyrir” also scored Gedge a few more music. The instruments were turned up loud so it points with the audience. One of my friends whispered The Wedding Present play catchy indie rock with was difficult to hear frontman Henrik sing. The show in my ear, “This would probably be awesome if we lyrics that are really honest and are only about love or went on with the appropriate feedback and I could knew the lyrics,” cause there actually were real fans about not being in love (which kind of implies being feel the crowd, along with myself, getting sucked into there who knew the lyrics. in love). Everybody in music is always talking about the coolness of Singapore Sling. You can say many At the beginning of the concert people were nod- how “you can’t just write love songs”. I say “why not”? things about Singapore Sling but the most important ding their heads not unlike the end scene of Purple David Gedge, the leader of The Wedding Present, is that they make music look good, and in the end Rain. Then after ten songs people started wiggling probably decided long ago that he would write about sound good too. You get lured in by the psychedelic and some started jumping. One guy poured beer over love and that would be enough. Love lyrics have every- guitar structures building on top of each other. While his head, which, in Iceland, is just kind of normal. I thing you need – betrayal, insanity, passion, drama and watching and listening to them I suddenly felt “cool”. was starting to wonder if another venue wouldn’t have comedy. I also found out, thanks to the Internet, that The band looked cool and made the audience feel like been more appropriate. Then after thinking about it, I this band I was about to see was somewhat of a pioneer they were cool to be watching them. And the queen of decided The Wedding Present is happy music that you

when it comes to music, often cited as a big influence cool was Bíbí, the bass player of Singapore Sling, who can get pissed and dance to. It was too bad, though,

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in the indie scene, getting top billing at shows like the never lost her cool. Just watching her onstage would for the people who were not getting retarded and just júní 29. Fimmtudagur Reading Festival. have been worth it. In keeping with the coolness of the wanted to see the show. When I walked into the concert, the mood band, Henrik didn’t say a lot. “This is very good,” were While listening to The Wedding Present didn’t resembled a debut gig by an unnamed garage band. I his last words; then he performed a great feedback make me feel cool like while watching Singapore Sling, counted the people and got to 20, a gruesome reminder exhibition with support from Einar Sonic. I felt happy. David Gedge praised the crowd and they that pioneers seldom reap the rewards of their efforts. When The Wedding Present started to play, the clapped and stomped in return. All things considered Only two days ago I had been one of those lost sheep, first song was bright and catchy with some nice tempo The Wedding Present turned out to be like the girl you not realising that tonight was going to be a concert by changes. Though they sounded a bit like The Smiths, sleep with and really like but can’t get over the fact that one of the founders of indie music. I got to thinking it never occurred to me that they were copying. The you’re not in love with her. But you’d have sex with her that Oliver and other institutions of mediocrity were Wedding Present’s songwriting is more unconven- given the chance and you wouldn’t be surprised if your probably packed. Now people started to stream in and tional than Morrissey’s darlings, and yet all the songs friend married her and you’d understand. But you two I realised that this was no different from every birthday seemed to be two minutes. While this kept you from would never marry. But sex, definitely. party I’ve ever been to. I had arrived too early. getting into the songs, it also kept you from getting I doubt I’ll be listening to The Wedding Pres- Singapore Sling started the show, a band to which bored. ent every day but this was an excellent and relevant I had never given a chance because of rumours. Some Then David Gedge, a guy who looks like someone concert, well worth the 1,500 ISK. say they have too many influences to be unique and you’d meet at a local bar in England and have a pint

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whO Flís featuring perfect end to a perfect day. band – people from countries where dance is not an Bogomil Font, The Quota on Bagpipe Salsa: Infinite But funky Flís were only the first band of three indication of blood alcohol level. to hit the stage. Swedish pop singer Petter Winnberg The next band was Kal from Serbia: six hand- Petter Winnberg, 100% Dynamite, By Jóhanna Friðrika Sæmundsdóttir and was next, presenting new material from his latest solo some men dressed in black with big smiles. The music Anna Brynja Baldursdóttir | Photo by Gúndi album. He showed up with a big Swedish band of wasn’t as wild and upbeat as with the Nix, but the vibe Stórsveit Nix twelve. was similar. The Icelanders in the audience seemed to Noltes, The first real day of summer in Reykjavík was about I cannot express the letdown when Winnberg think the rhythm was a bit more dance-friendly and Kal, to end and I headed out to NASA to the Rite of turned out one melodic pop song after another. Per- crawled to the floor. One of the exchange students KK and the Blue Spring festival with almost no idea what to expect. The haps had he not followed Flís, or had it been a worse came up to me and informed me, “If you’re not programme for the evening included the jazz trio Flís Truck, day, or if we had all been hungover. But as it was, sweating, it’s not good,” so I rose to the challenge and featuring Bogomil Font, Petter Winnberg and 100% Winnberg’s set was more than a disappointment, an danced my ass off. Salsa Celtica Dynamite. Even though we knew the work of the first anti-climax after the exhilaration that came with Flís. The atmosphere was getting pretty hot at NASA two acts, we had been informed that they’d be playing By the end of the act, NASA was nearly empty. So when Kal was getting ready to leave, the internation- all new material. there were only a few yawning viewers left when 100% als screaming, “You have to play all night long!” while where All the tables in the place were taken when we Dynamite came onstage. It seemed an impossible task sweat dripped from the walls. arrived, but we were welcomed to share one with NASA to pep up the last few. Torstein, a middle-aged Norwegian who was there by 100% Dynamite is something like a self-contained On the final night, KK and his band Blue Truck himself. He was happy to have some company and to portable nightclub, with two DJs and a guy with a started the evening with some powerful rhythmic casually inquire about our marital status. The audi- microphone claiming, repeatedly, that, “Now the party blues. The audience, who were similar Friday night’s whEN ence in general was diverse. As I skimmed through the will begin.” The party, of course, did not begin. As we eclectic mix of Icelanders, seemed to enjoy it. After a April 28th - audience I realised it was a good deal more diverse than followed the last of the crowd out, I ran into one of few songs, KK offered to give a beer to anyone who the typical festival crowd. Young couples mixed with Reykjavík’s best DJs, who heartily tried to convince me would dance. The whole audience looked a bit awk- 30th 2006 teenagers, Rasta women and the whole age range of that this music was the best in Reykjavík that evening ward, but finally, three lively rural ladies came forward singletons. Everyone in the audience seemed to be laid – but the feeling of being at a school dance was a bit and started dancing. The rest of us sat back, relieved. back after a day of sun. Even so, Flís took long enough too much ... so he gave up as well and joined us as we All the band members of Blue Truck were abso- to get onstage that a few people started banging against headed out into the summer night. lutely fascinating characters, to say the least. I do have the wall in protest. to mention the most fascinating member, the bass When Flís started, they immediately won over The mix within the audience the next evening was player. I have never seen a more sincere bass dance, the audience, including the super-friendly middle- hardly as diverse as the night before. There were on and hereby encourage all bass players to check him out aged skinhead at the table next to us, who particularly one hand exchange students and on the other hand and maybe nick a few moves. enjoyed lyrics about quotas. When keyboardist Davíð cosmopolitan Icelandic couples. Salsa on bagpipes – how can you be anything but of Flís shouted out a question about whether Prime First onstage were Stórsveit Nix Noltes, which curious to see that? The Scottish band Salsa Celtica Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson would get a quota normally include a few more band members, and I did were the final act of the festival. They were without a (standard issue protest banter these days, as Ásgríms- miss some of the instruments. It didn’t matter though. doubt the best band of the nights we attended. The joy son and his family established the fishing quota system, They were sublime as usual. and happiness they brought their guests at NASA that and profited generously from it), the skinhead shouted, I had never before seen their svelte giant guest night is indescribable. It was a band of 11 artists play- “Oh yes he’ll get the whole thing.” vocalist Böðvar Guðmundsson, but he was absolutely ing saxophones, banjos, flutes and an adorable bagpipe. Flís’s blend of calypso music and humorous, fabulous. Wherever you looked you could see semi- The crowd went completely crazy and NASA’s sometimes political, lyrics completely won over the au- wiggling Icelandic bodies sitting firmly in their seats dance floor was packed with wild Icelanders looking dience. Wherever you looked there were smiling faces due to the lack of alcohol in their blood. There were like graceful señoritas doing the Riverdance. and wiggling bums. This moment could have been a only a few exchange students honouring this fantastic 38

Only the Voice is Childlike An Interview with the Conservatory Escapee Queen of the iPod, Joanna Newsom

by bart cameron

If you’ve heard her once, you know the voice. Fragile, playful, with pre-existing vernacular. I thought it was heavy and strong but it was all about rugged original and, okay, childlike, Joanna Newsom sings of sleep- If you’ve read other interviews you’ve probably already cowboys and Indians stuff. In a way I felt like his sound was a ing all day, of sprouts and beans, and on first listen you know heard me talking about Ruth Crawford Seeger. She did the caricature of that stuff. you’re in the company of something altogether different. Her same thing. She went to a very prestigious school in Chicago to He was among the composers looking for a non-Eurocen- first album, The Milk-Eyed Mender, was one of our favourites study composition and was a very powerful influence and helped tric, American-derived sound. So I think he’s worth listening to of 2004. Listening to it over the course of a year, though, we establish her own counterpoint methodology. But in her later for that reason. I think he’s more interesting than emotionally heard more and more influences. I, for example, insist that The years she became a big influence in the attempts to catalogue important to me. Milk-Eyed Mender is a bluegrass album; my colleagues claim American folk music. All the stuff that the Lomax brothers Lou Harrison is one of my favourites. I love Pauline Oli- it’s music for a hidden people carnival. Given the opportunity were doing, she worked with. She put out a book of American veros and Fred Frith. (Laughing.) What makes a lot of those to talk with the most distinct recording artist this side of Sigur folk music for children that was very popular. And she went on guys and gals good is that, in my mind, they have a different Rós, we begged for an explanation. to raise these children. Pete Seeger, Peggy Seeger and Michael relationship with dissonance than the arbitrary experimentalists. Seeger. I was looking at her music right before I decamped from Rather than aiming for dissonance and discord, I feel that they /// You’re flying out here. It seems like you’ve been a part of composition school. I was trying to find some sort of trajectory. redefine. They are creating tensions and resolving them, one of the scene here for a while, it’s almost a surprise that this is The huge difference between her and me is that everything I the oldest tricks in the book. But one doesn’t always understand your first visit. tried to do in experimental music was basically a failure whereas that they’re doing this. You have to unlock it. It makes you feel – I’ve been trying to come out for a few years. The impression I what she did was genius and transcendent. worthy of the trust you put in them. I feel like I hear a lot of get from other musicians is that in order to come out to Iceland composers and they betray the trust you put in them. Conso- you almost have to be invited. A promoter has to take interest. /// So you had a falling out with composition and moved into nance doesn’t have to be easy to find, but it is essential to music. I’ve been making noise about wanting to come out to Iceland the pop and folk world. It seems like the ultimate insult to for a number of years. your school. Like leaving a poetry program to write journal- /// Those names are good starting points for people just ism. How quick was it to switch over? getting into composition, and they give a context, definitely. /// You already have a following; I should tell you that Sigur – There was a major overlap. I’ve been writing music since I was You’re coming on tour just as you’re completing the follow-up Rós burned a copy of the Grapevine’s Joanna Newsom col- a little kid. That was why I originally went to this school. I’d to the successful album The Milk-Eyed Mender, right? lection a few months ago to take with them on tour. Actually, been talking originally about being a composer. The major shift – It’s almost done. All of my stuff is already recorded. But Icelandic music, or the plight of Icelandic musicians, comes wasn’t about writing one kind of music to another. The shift it’s got a lot of other stuff left to do. Because this is a very to mind when I read interviews with you. Why do so many was the kind of music before I went to school and the music symphonic record. I’m working with a really good arranger. people ask you such bizarre, cute, elf-based questions? I was playing just for fun while I was in school had as much Orchestration is not my strong point. The new songs are really – I actually don’t know why. This is a huge generalisation, but worth and interest as the music I was paying a lot of money and long, the longest song is 16 minutes. There’s going to be five I feel like some people assume certain things about the way I spending a lot of hours trying to get some grasp of. I needed to songs and a full-length record. It’ll be a very different approach, am because of the way the music sounds and therefore certain validate the work I had been doing all along. with some of the same feeling. questions they wouldn’t ask other people come out. And I usu- ally answer them… my interviews often spiral into this bizarre /// We see this in other art forms. The classic examples are /// What is the feeling of the Joanna Newsom recordings? Can realm. novelists who turn to a straightforward narrative in their for- you describe that for readers? ties, or actors who suddenly relax and find their roles. – The feeling I think of certainly isn’t the feeling I heard de- /// What interests me most about the album I’ve been listen- – Yeah, that’s kind of how it was. I still am. I think it’s also scribed by people. But I can respect the different opinions. I’m ing to is the songwriting. There’s a lot of folk and bluegrass about rediscovering a point off of which I’d like to continue amazed by the thickness of the skins of many musicians. But influence, but the patterns, the way you play with melodies, working. It’s not as if I’m there, and everything from there is I’m actually very thin-skinned. you seem to toying a lot with the idea of the basic song. What, satisfying to me. for you, is a complete song? What are the benchmarks, a full /// When you come are you going to play the 16-minute song? melody, a tone? Let’s start with other bands. When you listen /// Despite being played on independent radio alongside rock Might be different than the sing-along show that must occur to music, how do you evaluate success; how do you evaluate a acts, you’re coming at music from quite a different perspec- when you play Sprout and the Bean. good song? tive. Where would fans of yours go to listen to your influ- – Recently, I’ve been only playing the long new songs. But I – I’m not sure. I don’t know. I certainly don’t think it’s as easy ences? thought since this is my first time to Iceland I should play the for me to tell as it is for some people. I have a friend who can – This wouldn’t be an educated answer. For me what separates songs people know. tell within five minutes whether a band should be playing. experimental new music that I like from what I don’t like is Something tends to resonate with me if it is brave enough to a measure of arbitrariness. But then you’ll see composers like Joanna Newsom will perform at Fríkirkjan on May 16th and 18th, strive for something different and singular within a pre-existing Seeger and Ives and… playing songs that have dominated iPods across Iceland for the last form. You know, like watching some version of experimental- year, along with new material. Her guests will be Drag City label- ism taking place within the confines of song. As opposed to new /// I’m sorry, Charles Ives? I thought people with book mate Smog and Icelanders Slowblow. Tickets are on sale at BT or at music or modern composition. Or any of the new idioms. learnin’ looked down on Ives as too Americana. www.midi.is. I went to composition school, and I saw people do very new, – I think what Ives was doing was working to create muscu- avant-garde things, but I’m really interested in doing new things lature of sound that responded with the American landscape. 40 hGrapevinehonhtourh:hMinnesotagroomm Grapevine on tour : Minnesota

Kingdom of the Frown Garrison Keillor’s imagination has redefined radio and inspired generations of artists. As the Grapevine discovered, it’s still in full force, and it’s as beautiful and bizarre as anything we’ve come across.

by bart cameron photos by gúndi In-water spa treatments Kenny “CK” Lee sits next to us, munching Home Companion (the Simpsons, on more may not pull the actors in and out of scenes. effect.” and massage on a bratwurst. He is all of five feet, round, in than one occasion, have repaid the favour by The cast of dozens, essentially, has no idea Under the blue light of his Apple comput- his late fifties, with a few teeth missing, but mocking their predecessors). of their parts for the evening other than vague er, things begin to look bad. He is, quite obvi- impeccably groomed. Stopping in at a rehearsal of the great ideas of melodies – even the massive vocal ously, a cracked genius. From what I gather, Energize at “I won the 88.1 phone in contest, and we Minnesota production as it begins its tour that choir with a penchant for Diet Dr. Pepper will the crowd of thousands who come, and mil- drove all the way in from South Bend, Indiana. will lead it to Iceland, I’ve gotten more than receive fresh sheets of lyrics just before going lions who will tune in, will get fantastic jokes, BLUE LAGOON I can’t tell you how much I’m looking forward a little spooked. Without exception, everyone live before a stage audience of thousands, and a well-arranged 50s- and 60s-style pop tunes, a – Geothermal Spa to tonight,” he says, his wife attempting to has been the kind of nice that you hear about radio audience of five million. concert by America’s most popular musician, shush him. in rehab clinics – everyone smiles and waits for The whole experience is horrifying, and they will all be sombre and serious about “I could talk all night, just tell me to shut you to make sense and answers completely. We perhaps all the more so because the words it, and maybe even look like they need a nap. up if you want. But I’m a giant fan of Mr. have casually talked with America’s best-selling and songs being uttered and rewritten are Or something will go very wrong. What we see Keillor.” country recording artist, Brad Paisley, who has fantastically funny. Tonight, a Norwegian in Keillor’s slouch, his raised eyebrows, and the A Day to Remember “Really? We’re going to interview him after flown up from Nashville to visit a radio show farmer will talk to his wife on the phone about pens he keeps pulling out of his pockets, tells the show. Is there any question that you’d like he has admired his whole life, and I have chat- having certain urges that come with spring, us that there is just too much rewriting going A visit to BLUE LAGOON – Geothermal Spa is to ask him?” ted about the merits of Diet Dr. Pepper with a and then about being caught in a snowstorm, on. energizing for both body and mind. In addition to CK’s eyes pop wide open, a smile rises on 16-piece choir and members of the house band then trapped underneath a tree that has fallen The cast breaks for bratwursts and diet enjoying the lagoon’s warm geothermal seawater, the corner of his mouth. who have played with the best of American with the inevitable April blizzard, then being sodas, Keillor and the band staying upstairs. the following BLUE LAGOON – Geothermal Spa “Well, no. He scares the hell out of me. I folk musicians for 20-odd years. chewed on by wolves, throughout all of which When we return, the house has filed in, and options await you: silica mud mask, steam baths, sauna, waterfall, in-water spa treatments and massage. wouldn’t ask him nothing.” Constantly, I come across someone more he points out, “Oh, no, I’m fine, really, it’s not Keillor is already onstage, or somebody who pleasant than the last – with the cumulative a problem, they just seem to be getting my leg, vaguely resembles Keillor. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant while enjoying a view We’ve had about five hours with the cast of effect coming to something like CK of South but you know, when it’s time to go, it’s time to of the lagoon. The tempting a la carte menu includes A Prairie Home Companion, America’s most Bend, Indiana expressed: utter terror. go” to his bride, as a cast sings more and more The scolding child is now a full-grown adult, a selection of international courses based on fresh revered radio show, and one of the most suc- To explain all this, I must reference Steven bawdy lyrics to “Tiptoe through the tulips” standing erect, dressed in what looks to be an Icelandic ingredients. cessful and inexplicable cultural institutions to Spielberg’s The Twilight Zone, Act Three. In – something about lying down and feeling immaculate grey suit, casually joking with the Remember to visit our shop and bring home BLUE come out of the Midwest in recent decades this that act, there is a child with profound mental breath, etc. audience. There is almost no connection be- LAGOON skin care products, enabling you to have side of Oprah. To sum it up, A Prairie Home powers who can make anything he wants The cast is hard at work and completely at >>> continues on next page a spa experience at home. Companion is a variety show with legendary to happen occur, simply by wishing it. His the will of the pouty 6-foot-4, live band, celebrated guest musicians, especially imagination is that strong. The people around five year old in the 64-year-old Visit www.bluelagoon.com. in the American folk community, a 30-years- him, who seem like a doting family, seem at- writer/director/star’s body. As Call 420 8832 to pre-book spa treatment, THE BEST WAY TO GET massage and a table at the restaurant. running self-emulating comedy sketch on tractive and likeable, but as the sketch goes on, the jokes get funnier, the songs TO MINNESOTA: small town Minnesota called the News from they reveal that their lives are completely at the sound more harmonious, the Restaurant Lake Wobegon, and a few other radio dramas/ whim of the child’s imagination. cast seems to get even more ICELANDAIR FLIES DIRECT FLIGHTS comedies, one of which, Guy Noir, has become Seeing Garrison Keillor arrive for the nervous. A crew man explains FROM KEFLAVÍK TO MINNEAPOLIS. such an institution that it has a ballet dedicated rehearsal of his show was exactly like inhabit- to me, somewhat forebodingly, to it, among other homages. ing this movie. The regulars, the nicest people while Keillor rewrites a song on for more information, log on to The show presents a good portion of the of A Prairie Home Companion, huddle around the screen of his laptop with a www.icelandair.is best of Midwestern culture, and then mocks Keillor, who shows up dishevelled and pouty, pen, that the star takes things ICELANDAIR PROVIDED TICKETS AND A STIPEND the hell out of it. If you’re looking for the pens and pieces of paper being pulled from his a little too seriously, drives him- FOR THIS TRAVEL PIECE. influence behind films like Fargo by Minne- khakis as he utters, “Stop, stop, this is a mess, self too hard. “His parents were sotans the Coen brothers, or even the cartoon I’ll just rewrite this right away,” and begins in the Sanctified Brethren, Skin Care The Simpsons, which also delicately constructs writing and rewriting something that may or people who don’t believe in a fictional, all-American city only to gently may not bring the whole imagined world he dancing or singing, just wor- eviscerate it, you can find them in A Prairie has created crashing down, or at least may or ship, and that may have had an BLUE LAGOON – Geothermal Spa is open daily year round.

FOREX_grapevine_MAR06.indd 1 2006-03-31 14:20:10 42

– Growing up, we couldn’t get Grand Ole Opry up here. We could get it somewhat in the winter – AM radio travels better in the cold for some reason. But there was a station, a rock n roll station, that was so close to its frequency. I just remember listening to it in the winter. But the signal would fade in and out, which made it mysterious, like it was from another planet. So I took a train down there to see it in 1970 or 71, and it was pretty amazing. All of these big stars. I followed country music somewhat because it was a time when college Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the students were more interested in folk music, new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of and there was a connection between folk music the exhibition is an excavated longhouse and Bill Monroe and Flatt and Scruggs and the site which dates from the 10th century bluegrass bands; you got interested in people Step into AD. It includes relics of human like Stonewall Jackson and Loretta Lynn habitation from about 871, the oldest whose movie, Coal Miner’s Daughter, was just such site found in Iceland. out when I went to see it, a beautiful lady. And all these big stars were playing in this Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s old gospel tabernacle in this rather seedy part past to life, providing visitors with of Nashville with pawn shops and neon bars all insights into how people lived in the around, and greasy spoon restaurants like Lime Viking Age, and what the Reykjavík Barrels and Merchant’s Lunch, and it was kind environment looked like to the first of the old warehouse district, near the Cum- the Viking Age settlers. berland River. And the audience came from all over. The parking lot had license plates from Alabama and Georgia and Mississippi. And I just found it fascinating. There was no air conditioning. It was a summer night. The windows were open. There were people sitting out in the parking lot listening to it on the radio, and you could also hear the sound from the radios. So the sound The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 from the hall and the sound from the trucks, opens on 12 May 2006 at Adalstraeti 16. the pickup trucks, just all kind of merged into one. People were smoking cigarettes, there was Reykjavík City Museum beer. It was very social outside. And musicians would come out the doors. Nashville firemen www.reykjavik871.is tween Keillor now, in front of the audience, think if you have a passion for films, you have some people in the cast came for shorter peri- were the doorkeepers, and musicians would and Keillor as he was 30 minutes ago, writing to be able to enjoy the bad films as much as ods of time. But Altman is a director who can come out by them, and you could tell who new lyrics for three of the songs to be featured good films and I have friends who do. They be cranky with staff, investors and passersby, they were by what they wore. They were all tonight. just enjoy them in a different way. And they but with musicians and actors, never. With glittery kind of nudie suits and they’d come Even his pair of bright red running shoes, just love to see it unfolding on the screen. musicians and actors he is courtly. And very out for a smoke in the alley. And people would paired with a lustery grey suit, makes you think And they’ll go to two or three movies a week. appreciative. He was always complimenting the come up to them and kind of stand near them. this is a man who could casually talk a bank ca- I know people who do that. It’s easier to do band. Which is the band from the show. They Maybe not even talk to them. They were just shier into handing over someone else’s savings, in New York, where you have so much choice were playing all the music. He was always somebody’s drummer or somebody’s fiddle or schmooze among athletic, A-type business- and so many independent movies come there. complimenting them. He was so gracious to player, but people really were in awe of these men over drinks at a university fundraiser. In Minneapolis, there are maybe five or six the actors. And they had a wonderful time. musicians. And, of course, the crowd is not frightened screens for independent movies, which are the There were some really wonderful acting of Keillor, they adore him. His one-liners like more interesting ones where there are interest- turns in it. So I was sorry when it ended. /// As you describe it, the parallels begin to “Spring, with the change in clothing, the pol- ing risks being taken because the budgets are drop away. Beer, smoke, pickup trucks, glitter len in the air and the sunshine, is a time when smaller and there’s less committee sensibility /// My God, does this mean you’ll be doing suits. This doesn’t sound like something that the thoughts of men on their way home from behind the picture. another movie? could happen in Minnesota. With your show, work turns to roughage,” receiving uproarious But I just really, I’m really intolerant at my – Yeah, no, I want to. I want to. for example, everyone was having a good time laughter. age. Intolerant of movies that just don’t engage but they were serious about having a good The Lake Wobegon sketch is a hit. The me. Or books. But you know it’s easier to put a /// Do you behave in a similar manner to Alt- time. Well-dressed and polite and laughing Guy Noir series, now fully incorporating Brad book aside. man? Is that why you got along, because you till they cried. Paisley, who Keillor met minutes before going work in the same fashion? – It’s a Midwestern audience. They’re very seri- onstage and, apparently, took a liking to, goes /// Well, if you were a fan of independent – No, I don’t think I’m successful at that be- ous people. I probably am, too. over well. In fact, Paisley is given the spotlight theatre, or of literature, you couldn’t have cause I’m working on a different timeline. But for a good portion of the evening. asked for a better cast and director. You have I really can’t make excuses for myself. I am sort /// I noticed through the rehearsal I was The show is a complete success: the pho- the director of Short Cuts, one of the most of abstracted and kind of living in my head. laughing a few times, but you never were. tographer who has traveled with me to witness impressive translations into film of an author And as a result I think I tend to be curt with – You’re not supposed to laugh at your own it is in awe – that somehow everything came who shouldn’t have been translatable, and musicians. I know what I want so I just kind of jokes. together, and that it always has for the last 34 you have the cast that has been at the centre tell them. And I’m not as old as Altman quite. years, is astounding. of indie film for the last decade: John C. Maybe he’s become even more courtly with /// Maybe. I was thinking, during rehearsal, Reilly, Lily Tomlin, Kevin Kline, to name a age. of the movie The Aristocrats, a movie where After the show, we watch Keillor greeting his few. the best of the Catskill comedians, especially, fans. He insists on talking with everyone, we – It was Altman’s idea. It certainly was not /// When we sat down, you mentioned seeing tell the same joke. Most of them laugh as are told, something that exasperates his co- mine. But he’s such an easy person to work good films in New York, but losing interest they tell their joke. A very different tradition, workers and some theatre owners, who have to with. That even after one conversation with here in Minnesota. You seem to be a fan of maybe. Actually, wonder if you’d do that wait an hour or so for him to leave. I walk over him. A few conversations with him. I had cities, which might surprise Midwestern- joke? and stand in line, hoping to see some more of dinner with him in Chicago, and hadn’t even ers or longtime listeners of your show. Are – I don’t think I’ll do that on the show. Any- the gregarious and open personality that just seen all that many of his movies. I know less there other places you’ve lived that you have time soon. (A blink for timing.) Yes, it may be took over the stage for the last hour and a half. about Robert Altman than the average gradu- this kind of attachment to? Denmark? You’ll a different tradition. A mid-thirties man with a peculiar speech im- ate student in America. But from one dinner be going to one of the great capital cities of pediment approaches him, telling Keillor that conversation, and a couple meetings later on the world, Reykjavík, and I wonder if you’re /// You don’t laugh at your jokes, but you do he was an English teacher in Wisconsin and in New York when he came to the show, you prepared for the experience? smile and dance when you sing. that he taught Keillor’s books to everyone. really felt that this person would be a good – I’ve never seen Reykjavík, and I’ll be very – I’m just trying to keep up with the rhythm As a response, Keillor repeats the man’s person to work with. curious to walk around it. I met some Iceland- somehow. It slips away from me easily. words, with the same accent, a faint, embar- I shouldn’t say easy, but you knew that he ers in Denmark when I lived there. And they rassed lisp that Keillor is obviously affecting. was fascinated by the subject and that he had were very serious and sweet people. I met some /// And yet you have the curious dream job We all look up at him, a little shocked. a very sure sense of what he wanted. He’s not at a language camp. I went to a Danish immer- of writing new songs for each show, or at Keillor seems to be daydreaming, and he a person who second guesses himself. And he sion language camp. And there were several least new versions of old songs, to do a full snaps out a little, and says something about wanted to make a certain style of picture. I Icelandic couples there who wanted to learn concert or musical, every week. Tonight, for Wisconsin being just down the road, and the did not. But I tried to write a screenplay that Danish for some reason. I asked them about example, you had the number one recording fan parts somewhat awkwardly. would serve his vision and would have a great the Icelandic language and they said “Don’t do artist in the country singing a tune that you Soon after this, we sit down for an inter- many different elements that sort of inter- it.” (Laughs.) wrote no less than an hour before the show. view, taking occasional breaks when he has to locked. It’s not a story that ties a man’s hands – He did a pretty good job with that. He did talk to a departing cast or crew member. behind his back. It’s a very interlocking puzzle, /// Today seems a good time to talk about well. He’s got a great understated talent. And with all these little pieces, and he was able to your origins. You had the country superstar he projects so well. His singing projects so /// I suppose I should start with the film. move them around and play with the pieces. Brad Paisley on the show, and he happens to beautifully that there’s never any doubt about Tonight you screened the preview for Robert I think he had a wonderful time making have grown up in the Grand Ole Opry, as you what he’s singing. It was really riveting. I like Altman’s A Prairie Home Companion, and it. I think all the actors did too, I know that I pointed out in your show. A Prairie Home that because I hear a lot of singers who are it looked like an instant classic: spontaneous, did. I’ve never made a movie before so I don’t Companion was created based on your experi- slurred, and their words are concealed. So funny, and timeless. You wrote the script. Are know what it’s like, but the actors told me that ence writing about the Southern radio show much of what they do is concealed. And I’m you a lifelong secret film buff? this was really unusually fun for them. It was for the New Yorker magazine. Can you tell not just talking about rock n roll, I’m talking – I don’t go to many films. I don’t know why. I a short shoot for one thing, five weeks. And me about the influence there? >>> continues on next page 44 Discover the wonders of Iceland in a Berg car. BERGcar rental Safety all the way!

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Contact Info: Tel: +354 577 6050 - Fax: +354 567 9195 - Tangarhöfði 8 - www.bergcar.is - [email protected] about all kinds of things. But when a singer It was a weird place, packed with old shops does a song and you’re not tracking what he’s and sheep and puffins, very weird, odd little saying, I think it’s just a mistake. creatures. And I went out one day for a walk in a field out on this island. And it was the /// Are you tolerant of it? You said, about greenest grass I had ever seen, all high enough film, that a lover a film will appreciate a bad to brush against your knees, but so incredibly film. You’re a well-known lover of music… soft. It was exactly like a dream. And since – No, I’m not tolerant of it. I’ve been there, I’ve had many dreams about this. Here we turn off the recorder. Had I not just “I was walking on this green grass, look- seen the show, I doubt the interview would ing out at the ocean at a rock formation, and have convinced me that Keillor consistently the grass felt so soft it was like a cloud. And puts out art of energy, grace and humour. then I realised that the grass was moving. I Impossibly charismatic and seemingly open realised that I was standing on a turf preci- onstage, in person, he comes off cagey and pice, out over the ocean, and I realised this judgemental. and I jumped back, and the precipice I was Keillor’s eyes are bloodshot. The energy standing on fell into the ocean.” he just put into the show has to be coming to We are mesmerised by the story. Keillor’s an end. How long did he spend writing this voice, which often lifts up at the end of a show, the five or so songs, the 40-page script? serious thought, convinces us that this might We apologise our way through a standard- be the life experience that he dreams of each issue portrait request. Our photographer is morning, waking him so that he can turn off positive that Iceland will fall in love with A the alarm before it goes off. A religious mo- Prairie Home Companion – it is the most ment, close to a personable parable, save for amazing combination of music, comedy and the lack of moral. charisma he’s seen. “That was a great Faroe Islands story,” the And Keillor agrees to a photo shoot, photographer says, after Keillor disappears slouching now, and dragging his feet as we down the hallway. “I really don’t believe it head back out to the house of the theatre. As ever happened.” we set up some lighting, Keillor starts joking “No, but when he talks, it feels like he’s and laughing, talking more freely than during talking out dreams. Like you’re dreaming the interview, the topic now away from him- something with him,” I say, thinking I’m be- self and on Iceland and our photographer. ing insightful. Then we start shooting. And Keillor “Yeah, it’s called storytelling,” the photog- begins making faces. And he continues. Photo rapher says, scanning his pictures, still hoping after photo. Frowing, squinting, like a spoiled to find one photo without Minnesota’s man child in need of a nap. of letters grabbing his crotch and pouting. “Should I tell him to stop grabbing his crotch?” the photographer whispers to me. On May 15th, Robert Altman’s A Prairie Home “Just shoot a lot of them, he’s being ca- Companion will premiere at Háskólabíó. A brief sual,” I whisper back. Q & A session with cast members will accompany We take 30 shots. He is making a face, the screening. and grabbing his crotch, in all but two of them. On May 16th, Garrison Keillor and the full cast As we prepare to leave, Keillor delivers of A Prairie Home Companion, along with a one last, truly surreal monologue. Riffing on number of Icelandic performers, will broadcast a Iceland, he mentions that he has been to the live show from the Icelandic National Theatre. Faroe Islands. Tickets are available through the National “I was on this island called Streymoy, Theatre. the main island there, with a charming little fishing village that makes up their capital. www.airiceland.is | tel 570 3030 Þingvellir TAKE THE WARMTH WITH YOU! Wool & Souvenirs Shop in a Country Village near the city

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REYKJAVÍK´S YOUR FREE COPY ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER ISSUE FIVE: MAY 5 - MAY 18

Stuffed with stuff On top “Like generations be- fore, I began attaching of glaciers, songs to ‘my war.’ ( ) became my war music.” Iraq War veteran Bronson Lemer on his in the streets attachment to Sigur Rós. Page 6. of Reykjavik

“The Independence Party is very positive to- wards immigration. We would especially like to see an increase in fund- ing for Icelandic lan- guage lessons for immi- grants. We believe that immigrants increase diversity and enrich our society.” MP Drífa Hjartardóttir on how im- migrant issues will factor into the next parliamentary elections. Page 12.

“The good and the bad thing about the size of this country is that if you want an idea heard, you only need to say it once.” Television talk show host and journalist Halla Gunnardóttir. Page 14.

“A young man I know, who currently holds an influential and respect- able job, told me that he once accepted payment for sex from a stranger in a dark alley. ‘I just wanted to know what it was like,’ he said.” Columnist Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann on her newfound ambiva- lence towards prostitution. Page 16.

“You’d have sex with her given the chance and you wouldn’t be surprised if your friend since 1972 married her and you’d WIND- AND WATERPROOF SOFT SHELL understand. But you ICEWEAR CLOTHES ARE AVAILABLE IN ALL MAJOR TOURIST SHOPS would never marry. But sex, definitely.” Drífa ehf, Sudurhraun 12 C, 210 Gardabaer, Iceland, Tel +354-555 7400, Fax +354-555 7401, [email protected] Helgi Valur’s surprise analogy in his review of Indie band Wedding Present. Page 34.