EINAR MÁR: Quiet, Confident and Ignored in America

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ISSUE TWO : JUNE 11 - JUNE 24 , 2004 Articles

06 DRINK IS GOOD FOR YOU How we can become the world´s greatest lovers 08 SISTER RUTH SEARCHES FOR POVERTY A nun decides to help Reykjavik´s unfortunates 13 EINAR MÁR: Quiet, Confident and Ignored in America

26 WHOSE INDEPENDENCE? The Republic celebrates 60 years

Feature 10 INDEPENDENT WOMEN: Is feminism still necessary? Movies & Theatre The Reykjavík Grapevine crew 18 THE NEW QUEENS BEGIN THEIR RULE. A gay cabaret makes its debut The Reykjavík Grapevine 19 LIBERAL AMERICA STRIKES BACK. Hafnarstræti 15, 2nd floor The Day After Tomorrow [email protected] Editors: 561-2323 / 845-2152 / [email protected] rts & ulture Advertising: 562-1213 / 869-7796 / [email protected] A C Distribution: 562-1213 / 898-9249 / [email protected] Listings: 562-1213 / 869-7796 / [email protected] 20 OOPS I DIDN´T DO IT AGAIN. Þorvaldur Þorsteinsson, Jack of All Trades Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson 21 ORTHODONTISTS, ARTISTS AND HAIRSTYLISTS TO THE STARS Editor: Valur Gunnarsson The youth of Mosfellsbær tell their aspiration Co-editor: Robert Jackson Listings editor: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson Music & Nightlife Production manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson Creative director: Hörður Kristbjörnsson Photographer: Hörður Sveinsson 22 KRIS KRISTOFFERSON: Dylan´s Janitor Discovers Genius 23 THE PIXIES AND KORN: From Drugs to Comfort Food Advertising directors: Hilmar Steinn & Jón Trausti 24 The 2nd Worst Thing You Can Say on a 2nd Date Distribution: Hrafn Þráinsson & Jóhann Páll Hreinsson Cover photo by: Hörður Sveinsson Outside Reykjavík On cover: Sheba Wanjiku

Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. STICK PINS AND SLAP THEM ON THE CHEEK 28 # of copies: 30.101 Dealing with the local ghosts Planned day tours:

Landmanna- The Golden Volcano Iceland Glacier laugar Hekla Circle in a Nutshell Mýrdalsjökull Volcano Hekla Explosion crater A real 4x4 safari Glacier • Geological wonders Extraordinary landscape Hot natural bath Colors and craters • Geologival adventure Snowmobile ride Glaciers • Hot springs • Lava caves Unique combination of fire and ice LETTERS

Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money in new, unmarked bills, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík

Hi, Unfortunately, there are a number of inaccuracies in the One of our editors was in Reykjavik recently and he article that appeared in the Grapevine and I would like to picked up a copy of your newspaper. I really liked the clear them up. pull-out center section, “Guide to the City Center,” and This law has nothing to do with what age a foreigner I’d like to get in touch with the person who wrote that. must be before being able to apply for a bank loan to buy Do you think it’s possible to send me that writer’s e-mail a house or apartment. The 24 year age limit has to do address, or to give mine to her or him? with residence permits for foreign spouses of Icelanders. Thanks! It says that foreign spouses of Icelanders who are younger Jason Cochran than 24 can no longer automatically get a residence per- Senior Editor mit solely on the basis of being married to a native. Budget Travel magazine 1) The author mixed up the names of 2 different institu- tions as well as the people who head them. He said that We would, but it sounds like you want to give him an assign- a meeting on Friday May 21st was held by the Multicul- ment. We find that when people start offering our writers tural Centre. There is no such place in Reykjavik. There money for their work they become much harder to deal with. is an institution called the Intercultural Centre. In fact, So we´re sorry but we are unable to help you. the open meeting was held by the Reykjavik Cultural Committee. Hello 2) Later in the article the author gives the name, phone I wanted to thank you for an amusing article on the exhi- number, and e-mail address of Halldóra Gunnarsdóttir bition in our museum in your paper in issue 1, year 2. It as the contact person This woman does not work at the was nice to get such a lively commentary on this exhibi- Intercultural Centre but in fact works at City Hall as an tion, I hope you´ll pass that on to the writer involved. information task manager in the Development and Fam- Regards and thanks ily Department of the city government. Harpa Þórsdóttir 3) The open meeting about cultural activities had noth- Head of Exhibitions ing whatsoever to do with the new law about foreigners. National Gallery of Iceland 4) Neither did the Multicultural Carnival which was advertised as being held in first Ingólfstorg and later Fine, praise them if you must, as long as you don´t start offer- Lækjartorg and NOT at Stjórnarráð, as mentioned in the ing them money. article. I would like to point out that if anyone is interested in In the style of “101 Reykjavík”, I tried to ‘live’ in Hall- more information about services for foreigners, to drop grímur Helgason’s head and share his thoughts and in at the Intercultural Centre on Hverfisgata 18, directly observations. I found it a rather mystifying place to be. across the street from the National Theatre and pick In particular I had a problem with the Icelandic society, up the current and back issues of their magazine which which apparently is the “best the earth has ever seen.” I has articles in many languages, including English, about wondered if the society where ‘nobody goes hungry to foreigners’ services and rights. bed, no one is cold at night, the healthcare system covers Respectfully yours, everybody, most people travel abroad three times a year Hope Knútsson and every home has an Internet connection’ was the chairperson, Multicultural Council same society that I was living in. Then it struck me that I did not have the benefit of Hallgrímur’s rose-tinted Paul Fontaine-Nikolov responds: double-glazing. I was also puzzled that he spent five I was pleased to hear that someone was fighting for us, the years in Paris and ‘there was nothing going on’ and that forgotten Icelanders, when this dreadful set of laws was he felt more isolated there than in Reykjavík. But I guess passed. While I appreciate your clarification on the “age 24” when in Paris he was an unknown wannabe, whereas law, I would like to point out: later in Reykjavík, a celebrated author, artist, essayist, playwright, competition judge and town planning expert, 1) This group was called the “Multicultural centre”, in clearly a serious case of Big Fish/Small Pond Syndrome. English, several times in the meeting.The name Halldóra As for his theory about a small society turning against Gunnarsdóttir was given several times at this meeting as the one that becomes too big, I feel confident that he has person to contact if any foreigners had any ideas as to how to nothing to worry about. make Reykjavík more multicultural. I spoke to one Halldóra Hassan Harazi Gunnarsdóttir about this meeting, told her what was said, 101 Reykjavík and asked if she was indeed the contact person for this group. She confirmed that she was. Dear Hassan In response to your query, we sent a reporter and a Catholic 2) The open meeting might not have had anything directly nun on location to see if poverty exists in Iceland. See page to do with the new laws, but the purpose of this meeting - to 8. They failed to find it in the first attempt, but that doesn´t make Reykjavík more multicultural - is both pertinant and mean its not there. Anyone wanting to send pointers or even relevent within the context of these new laws especially. write articles about the subject please get in touch. Grapevine -Here to help. 3) They did indeed discuss providing services to foreigners, e.g., a datebase website of every foreigner organisation in Dear Grapevine, Iceland, and not just involving foreigners in more cultural I’m delighted that you’re back! I missed your fresh com- activities, as you assert. mentary on Icelandic society during the winter months. As chairperson of the Multicultural Council I was happy 3) In no point in the article did I say that the festival took to see an article about the new law about foreigners re- place at Stjórnaráð. I said that I went to a “meeting” (which cently passed by the Icelandic Parliament. I was involved ended up being a hoax) at Stjórnaráð, while “the festival set in the month-long protest against the passing of that up across the street” - which would be Lækjartorg. law, along with 12 other organizations, and was one of the people who testified to Members of Parliament about While these laws seek to marginalize, these events seek to some of the clauses which would violate the human include. Aren´t we all working towards the same goals, after rights of foreigners. all? WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com EDITORIAL TROUBLE IN PARADISE by Valur Gunnarsson

Fjölmiðlafrumvarpið. There. I´ve said it. The F-word. Now, let us never mention it again. At least not this issue. As we all get ready wear the costume. We thought this On a lighter note, we also have a now for the media not bringing up anything but the F-word for was kinda nice. Little did we expect new staff member, Beerman. He most of the summer, we´ll be focusing on other aspects of the country. the reaction. The lady who was go- won´t be around the office much, And, quite apart from everything to do with the F-word, all is not ing to lend us the costume withdrew but you´ll see him at the bar. These her offer upon hearing of who was days, as a practitioner of irrespon- well in the state of Iceland. to wear it. Not because she didn´t sible sex, he´s very worried about At our party two weeks ago I spoke goes for Achilles, portrayed by the like the person in question, or had the chlamydia epidemic that´s been to a Bulgarian girl who said that the no less blonde and fair skinned Brad ever met her before, but because she going round. Well, it´s a good thing reason she initially wanted to come Pitt. Throughout history, heroes was black. We then decided to rent a someone is, because the health to Iceland was that she had heard of the ancient world, ( Jesus being a costume. The answer was the same. department sure isn’t. As mentioned it was very liberal, with a great gay case in point) have always had their We asked the woman who owned in the last issue of Grapevine, they scene and the first female president. appearances changed to accord with the rental whether she would refuse don´t think it necessary to keep After she came here, though, she has the ideals of the Northern European a person point blank to rent a certain chemists open after midnight since been somewhat disappointed. peoples who write it. costume on the basis of her colour, the only people that come there ask The gays are doing their For our cover, and linking to which she replied she would. for syringes and condoms. If helping best, putting on a great show at Jón in with articles on women in Iceland We had to go all the way people to avoid life threatening dis- Forseti, despite a cast member hav- as well as 60 years of independence, to Laugavatn and borrow a costume eases such as hepatitis C and HIV, as ing been beaten up by gay bashers we decided to put on the cover a from the Woman´s Association well as lesser evils such as chlamydia the the night before (see p. 18). Bigotry? picture of a woman wearing the there, who of course had no objec- and unwanted pregnancies is not There´s no such thing in Iceland. traditional costume. To counter tion to the idea, to finally make important then what, pray tell is? perfect It´s interesting that these days localised ideals of beauty, as well as the shoot. The result is, as we had the ambassadors here of the old to embrace the multicultural society, hoped, a beautiful picture. If anyone imperialist Anglo-Saxon powers of we decided to ask a black woman to is offended, well… slice 300 IKR Britain and the USA have dark skin. each slice The countries that once took up also check out the White Man´s Burden are now great our u being represented by blacks in the pizza men in the city center whitest country in the world (much you’ll find usORG SQUERE

KÖ-HÖNNUN / PMC FST ON INGÓL admired as such by the Nazis). But of course, we welcome people of every colour and creed. Sure, when a deal was reached with the Americans in 1946 to station troops here, there was a secret clause demanding that no black soldiers come to Iceland. Bigotry? There´s no such thing in Iceland. In the film Troy, Helen, supposedly the most beautiful woman in history, is portrayed by a blonde, pale-skinned German. This apart from the fact that the story is set in the Eastern Mediterranean, and Helen would no doubt have had much darker features. The same Passing through

Have you been here long? museum) and from it there’s a great Iceland and 3. Iceland’s decision to For two days now and we’re going to view over the city of Reykjavík. start whaling again, that is a big issue stay here four days total. here isn’t it? Do you know who Björk is? How do you like Iceland? Yes. Have you tried any Icelandic We love it! The people are friendly delicacies? and helpful and we feel safe here. Do you know who Ólafur Well, we went to Tveir Fiskar Ragnar Grímsson is? restaurant and ate fish. It was great! How do you not like Iceland? ...ehh... I saw that name today... Names? It’s expensive! hmm.....could it be him who Elizabeth Corcos (right) & Miriam founded Reykjavík.... or no! Stewenson (left) How many people live in He’s probably your president or Iceland? something. Where are you from? 288.000? We’re both from England but I (Liz) Have you heard about the live and work in Munchen Germany What’s your favorite spot in current debate in Iceland? and I (Miriam) live in London. Reykjavík? Well we can remember three debates: Perlan! It’s a beautiful building, has 1. Iceland joining the EU, 2. That a good museum inside (Perlan saga hydro-electric project in the east of

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6 DRINK IS GOOD FOR YOU! by Robert Jackson

So here’s the scene. I’m sitting at my desk looking out of the win- dow of the Grapevine offices. Below me is the world’s most famous �� hotdog stand and in the distance Esja is throwing of the last of the �� winter’s snow. It’s 12:30 on a Saturday morning, it’s a fine day, I’m feeling good, so I’ll drink a beer while I write this piece. I lift the ring pull, hear the gentle release of gas and take a sip. “Ah… that’s better,” I think to myself. President refuses to sign If you are a visitor reading this piece also tax the hell out of the product. there’s not much that you would Just over 15 years ago beer was still consider out of the ordinary about banned from the country on the my actions. But if you are from basis that it would have a corrupt- Iceland, the image would prompt the ing effect on Icelandic youth. An question “So, you want to get drunk, Icelander cannot buy alcohol until do you?” he is twenty years old and even then he will pay four times more than his in Europe, it has the highest ratio of You see, Iceland has not embraced European counterparts for his bottle AA groups per head of population. time that Icelanders did the same. the concept of ‘social’ drinking. of beer, his glass of wine or what- Something is not working. Getting blasted leads so often to bad Whilst the rest of Europe, with the ever it is he wants to drink when sex, unwanted bad sex, unwanted exception of my own country, Eng- he is finally allowed to shop at the What has become clear is cultures babies, unwanted partners, unwanted land (and I’ll come back to them), wine monopoly. In addition, most that accept responsible social drink- partners’ diseases. It really isn’t that appealing. have grown and developed with households do not store liquor and ing as a normal part of life have The President refused to sign a alcohol as a mild and pleasant social the majority do not drink alcohol less alcohol abuse than the cultures Icelandic males will tell anyone who bill passed by Parliament which stimulant, the majority of Icelanders from Sunday lunchtime to Friday that fear and condemn alcohol. The would have proscribed cross-media treat alcohol as a Saturn rocket does evening. Instead, Icelanders drink drinking culture in Iceland really will listen that this country has some of the most beautiful women in the ownership. This is the first time in liquid nitrogen. water, coffee, milk or cola with their does need to change. Yes, the laws the history of the Republic that the lunch and supper. should change in line with other world. If that is the case, why do they have to get half comatose to President has refused to sign a bill. A glass of wine with your meal, a European cultures, but that should The bill will now go to a national beer after work with your friends, On the face of it, all should be well. also happen as a determined effort get into bed with them? And as for the women, perhaps getting drunk referendum, the first in the history a dram of whisky as a night cap are But research has shown that while is made to reposition alcohol in the of the Republic part of daily life for tens of millions temperance-based cultures drink less Icelandic psyche. is the only way to make an Icelandic male seem beddable. It just doesn’t of Europeans. Europe’s drink laws alcohol per capita than more relaxed Government and opposition add up. treat us as responsible individuals. countries, when they do take to the Drinking to oblivion is not bad don´t get along Children are introduced to the pleas- booze, they drink not for the gentle morally. But it can and does lead ures of moderate alcohol consump- stimulant a glass or two can provide; to fistfights, drunk driving and un- Icelanders have never travelled more, tion, whilst at the same time learning they drink instead to get drunk. And wanted pregnancies as well as being and hopefully this exposure to coun- about the obvious dangers of abuse. here in Iceland, they drink to get a bore for others who have to endure tries with an enlightened approach In these countries people learn from Viking drunk. Let me add, that in a it. There are a growing number of to drink will help. The defining mo- an early age that to get drunk and Grapevine devoted to sexual equal- serious musicians in Iceland who will ment will be when moderate use of appear to be drunk is to appear to be ity, Icelandic women kneel shoulder only play at early gigs as they want alcohol is encouraged and presented a fool, an embarrassment to not only to shoulder in the gutters with men their music heard and their lyrics as equally acceptable to abstinence. yourself, but also the people you are when it comes to getting out of it on listened to but the environment that At the same time, excessive drinking with. a Saturday night. exists in many clubs as midnight ap- will be seen as socially unacceptable and certainly never accepted as an proaches prevents this. A meeting was convened between A sober country from Sunday to Do Icelanders drink less than excuse for bad behaviour. It´s the government and opposition min- Friday others? way the rest of the world is going How to avoid bad sex isters as to how the referendum Iceland remains a temperance based The other remarkable thing about Coming from England, a country and there is nothing to be gained in Iceland not going with them. was to be conducted, as no specific society where strict drink laws and a temperance-based societies is that on not renowned for the sexual prowess rules exist. The meeting was broken high liquor tax prevail - there is no average they have six to seven times of its males, it may sound a bit rich off after less than 15 minutes, in tradition of ‘social’ drinking here. as many Alcoholics Anonymous commenting on Icelandic sexual I long to see families sharing a bottle of wine over their lunch in the a reputedly hostile atmosphere. The distribution and sale of alcohol groups per capita as non’temperance behaviour but I feel on solid ground Parliament will reconvene on the is run by the state monopoly; they countries. On this matter Iceland in referring to Europe’s more famed cafés of Reykjavík. It may be a long time in coming, but come it will. 5th of July, even though this has alone can sell the stuff and they do has managed to achieve a remark- lovers, the French and Italians, who traditionally been a part of its long so through a restricted number of able first - whilst it has one of the treat alcohol as a sexual stimulant summer vacation. outlets at restricted hours. They lowest levels of alcohol consumption - not an anaesthetic. Perhaps it is

“I´m an Icelandic viking and I´m making a noise!” by Örn, Reykjavík poet A group of young men, plotting no good on the dancefloor, no doubt.

It´s never been hard to stop drink- alone. Culture night in Reykjavík city. ing. Getting ready for the first beer; “I think it´s time you go home,” the I was drinking Smirnoff straight that´s the hard part. It took me a few headmaster said. There wasn´t much from the bottle and got separated years. Thinking about whether to room in my head for argument so I from my friends. Suddenly I found start or not. Alcoholism in my family did what he said. myself in a strange party. Everyone and all that. But when I finally made That night changed my life. I had dressed like Marylin Manson. Nick the decision, a whole bottle of Vodka a new friend and his name was Cave singing - Death is not the end. was down. Smirnoff. Outside people were yelling. The I remember, vaguely though, rolling --- fireworks just ahead. down the stairway in my block. It I miss those old times. Getting We got out and climbed on to a was Christmas and a school dance I drunk the first time is somehow rooftop. The sky exploded and eve- was looking forward to. I even had like losing your virginity. Very often rything turned black. Later someone a girl waiting - my date. Something those things go hand in hand. My said I had almost rolled of the roof. every 16 year old is excited about. first time with a woman was in Vest- But the night wasn´t over. Not for The bottle was emptied and the man Islands. me at least. When I opened my eyes party over; somehow I got to the The night before I had emptied only a handful of yellow credit car buttoned your pants and took a shit I was hanging down from a light dance. a whole bottle of Hot and Sweet notes in my pocket and a half full on the dance floor. Then you wiped post. The police yelling at me to get It was on a boat. Disco lights - pepper vodka. My friends were bottle of Jack Daniels. your ass with some credit card notes down. I assembled all my energy and everywhere. My girl said hello but working in the town and I went to a Trying to find myself I walked in your wallet. It was crazy.” screamed as high as I could: I didn´t even recognise her. The party at their place. After a few beers around in a frenzy. Then somebody I suddenly remembered what I had “I´m an Icelandic Viking and I´m Russian liquor was the only thing on my body got limp, somehow stopped yelled my name. I turned around found in my pocket and ran away. making noise.” my mind. working. My head was pretty clear and saw two guys pointing at me --- Then, looking down, I saw my After a few minutes of me danc- though. I remember my friends laughing. Those kind of things are bound to parents. I waved at them and at the ing with myself I went to the deck, making a circle around me. Singing a “God you were drunk tonight,” one happen when you are young. People same time lost my grip. It was a rolled over, and laid there in my own song about how drunk I was. of them said. who don´t drink will never experi- beautiful ending to a Culture night puke. It was really a magical mo- Then I got up and managed to run “Do I know you?,” I answered. ence the beauty of a bad hangover in Reykjavík and a turning point in ment. The headmaster, my teacher out. The next thing I remember is “I sure don´t hope so. We were or a massive black out. But all good my life. and the student advisor walked waking up down in the valley. With listening to the band when you things must come to an end. It was a From then on things could only get towards me. I only wanted to be left no telephone, jacket, wallet or shoes; suddenly kicked your shoes off, un- few days before my 17th birthday. A better. Introducing the summer collection from 66°North. Also known as the winter collection from 66°North. JÓNSSON & LE´MACKS 1181

KeepingKeeping IcelandIceland warmwarm sincesince 19261926

Available around Iceland 8 SISTER RUTH SEARCHES FOR POVERTY by Padraig Mara

Sister Ruth and friend ��

Icelandic commander in Kabul

An Icelandic commander was put in charge of the International airport in Kabul by NATO forces. The airport has 900 personel, 17 of whom are Icelandic. Foreign minister Ásgrímsson was present as the airport was handed over to the Icelandic commander. The previous commander had been German, and both countries anthems were played. Sister Ruth was last seen dancing with a group of mentally handi- rang the door bell. I slammed on Flags distributed to children capped children in the grass of the town square, a statue of the Virgin the door. Samhjálp was closed. I was getting desperate to find someone, in her arms. anyone for Sister Ruth to help... I I first spoke with Sister Ruth over The Plot to Kill Lady Di was becoming more and more con- the phone one Friday. I explained vinced that Sister Ruth was herself to stamp out Christianity, they’re that I wrote for a local newspaper At my house Sister Ruth held my desperately in need of help. all Satanists, the Freemasons, did and asked if it would be alright if I daughter, drank tea and chatted. She you know that?” No, I replied. I did accompanied her the next day as she talked briefly about her experiences Our next stop was the Salvation not know that. The Salvation Army ministered to the needy, homeless in different countries. She spoke Army. I rushed the front desk and chief shows up, in full regalia, white or otherwise troubled and wrote an about working with prostitutes in asked in clumsy Icelandic if any of shirt, white hat, white beard. He is The Independence Day Committee article on it. She accepted happily. Amsterdam’s red-light district. “You the Army were around. He looked from Norway, has only very recently has decided to issue all kindergarten “That would be wonderful”, she said. know they sit in those windows with at me, perplexed. I asked again, arrived and has NO idea where toddlers with the Icelandic flag to “I’ve been molested and attacked no clothing on, and I just sat beside this time in English, if any of the we might find some homeless or commemorate Independence Day with swords before while attending them and talked “ she said. My wife salvation soldiers were around. otherwise helpless. Sister Ruth and next June 17th. Boy Scouts will be to my work... that won’t happen if replied that must not have been good Behind my shoulder he saw Sister the Norwegian chatted away happily despatched, and all in all 5.700 flags there’s a man with me”. for business. I stifled a laugh. Ruth, Mary in hand, chatting with for a few minutes, about what I don’t will be distributed. The first flags I paused, unable to respond for a German backpackers trying to check know. I asked the desk clerk for the arrived at Grænuborg kindergarten second. Swords? Where had she It soon became obvious that Sister in to the hostel that the Salvation address of any rehab centers, halfway on the 7th of June. been working? I gathered myself. Ruth had no idea of where to find Army runs. houses, anything. He gave me one. I “No Sister”, I replied. “That won’t the needy in Reykjavík. I found it thanked him, collected Sister Ruth Mayor wants to clean up city happen”. “I really believe the Virgin will spare and made a hasty exit. I walked down to Cabin Hotel at The weather had turned, and I drove 11 o’clock on a beautiful Saturday Iceland when the atomic holocaust slowly through the rain. Our Lady morning to meet Sister Ruth. As I of Victories, Sister Ruth and myself waited in the lobby for her to come kept our eyes peeled for the address downstairs, I wondered why the Sis- finally ushers in the end.” of the halfway house the desk clerk ters of Saint Francis had put her up odd that she should be sent out to Sister Ruth- Hello and where are gave me. At last we located it, and of in a hotel. Shouldn’t she be staying do her work without so much as a you two from? course it was empty, and seemingly at one of the rectories in either Rey- connection with any Catholic chari- abandoned. Authorities are taking still more kjavík or Hafnafjörður? Or at one ties. My wife and I myself busied German Backpacker Girl- We’re interest in the city´s kindergartens. of her sister convents? My thoughts ourselves calling soup kitchens, pov- from Leipzig, Germany. By now it was raining quite hard for Mayor Þórólfur Árnason announced were cut short as Sister Ruth ap- erty assistance centers and finally the Iceland. Sister Ruth offered to buy a drive to clean up the city on a visit proached, a woman of advanced Salvation Army, attempting to find Sister Ruth- Oh how nice! God me a cup of coffee. I politely refused; to Sæborg kindergarten, as many middle age, dressed in “civilian” some unfortunates for Sister Ruth bless. (in a horrible German I had to be at work soon. I had best visitors are expected to the capital clothing, topped with a Jesus Fish to lead to salvation. My daughter accent) Und danke schoooone! drop her back at her hotel. On the around Independence Day celebra- baseball cap. Propped in her arms, cooed and hooted in the nun’s lap, way, she cheerfully assured me of tions. Garbage bags have been facing me, she carried a two foot tall trying repeatedly to grab the likeness The backpacker looked at me for how lucky I am to live in Iceland. placed in strategic locations and city staue of Mary. I scratched my head. of Mary on the table in front of her. an explanation. I had none to offer. “They seem not to have lost their officials asked to get their staff to Sister Ruth explained that she always The gent behind the desk offered us love for Our Lady here, as they have be more tidy. Skólavörðustígur has We walked down Borgatún in carried the statue of Our Lady be- a seat in a waiting area and kindly in so many other European coun- been designated as a flower street, the dazzling Reykjavík summer cause it opens up people’s hearts. She assured me he’d get the head of the tries” she said. “You know we’re liv- and flower pots have been handed sunshine, the sky blue and clear. informed us that once on a plane a house here in a few minutes. ing in the End Times, Armageddon out to residents. Reykjavíkingar were out in force, gentleman sitting next to her identi- times, but I really believe the Virgin enjoying the weather. Sister Ruth fied himself as a member of British England Goes to the Dogs (and will spare Iceland when the atomic Palestinians held in custody had been on the television the night Intelligence. He went on to confess the Freemasons) holocaust finally ushers in the end.” before, ensuring her instant recogni- that Princess Diana had in fact been I said I was glad to hear it. When I tion. People smiled and pointed as murdered as part of a conspirato- We waited for a half an hour for left her in the lobby of Hotel Cabin, we walked past. It was established rial plot between the Royal family the soldier of salvation. Sister Ruth she gave me and my wife gifts. Mini- that Sister Ruth is a missionary nun, and MI5. I scratched my head and detailed the suffering she experi- atures of Mary and Christ. For my based in London, with her home cleared my throat. ences routinely while she is back at daughter, a rosary that glows green convent near Knock in Ireland. She said that she had been all over the Enter the Satanists “They’re all Satanists, world ministering. I asked her where she would like to begin in Reykjavík. We were soon driving to Samhjálp, the Freemasons, did you know that?” The Supreme Court confirmed a She said that she would like very a soup kitchen located downtown ruling that three Palestinians who much to meet my wife and child. on Hverfisgata. As we drove, Sister her London base. She is constantly in the dark, to be hung over her bed. had stolen or forged passports are to I wondered why, but didn’t ask. Ruth (statue propped on her lap, spat at, beaten up, chased, mocked be held in custody until the 16th of As we continued walking my eyes looking out the windshield) regaled and molested, even while carrying Sister Ruth was last seen dancing June. The ruling says there are rea- kept drifting back to the statue she me with tales of ex-Satanists in the likeness of Mary with her at with a group of mentally handi- sonable grounds for suspicion that carried. It looked solid and heavy. America confessing to her, solemnly all times. England is going down capped children in the grass of the the men are involved counterfeiting My guilt grew, I scratched my head. and with much weeping, to all man- the tubes. There’s pornography town square, a statue of the Virgin in official documents, breaking the “Sister,” I said, “Let me carry that ner of perversion, drug abuse, even everywhere. The children are all her arms. foreigner law, links to break-ins in for you”. She gave it to me. Now I human sacrifice. I drove faster. She hooligans. All the women are having Denmark, and suggests a possibility was part of the parade. Damnit... I said she doubted if there was much abortions. “It’s all to do with the that they are part of an international quickened my pace to my apartment. of that here. I agreed whole-heart- Freemasons you know”, she says, crime syndicate. edly. Probably very, very little. I “they’ve become very strong in Brit- parked the car, we both got out. I ain in the last years…they’re trying Hornið (The Corner) opened in 1979 was the first restaurant of its kind in Iceland, a restaurant with a true Italian atmosphere. In 2004 it stays true to its original form.

Hornið is known for good food made out of fresh raw materials, good pizzas baked in front of the guests, good coffee and comfortable service.

Galleríið (The Gallery) is a room beside the main dining area and guests can go there for an aperitíf, eat there or relax on the couches after their meal.

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The 19th Century Russian radical and writer Chernyshevsky claimed that women a huge influence on Russian nihilists. One of them, Nicholas Shelgunov, took the idea had been so long subjugated to men that mere gender equality was no longer enough, even further. When his friend Michael Mikhaylov, who was having an affair with his that men should now take their turns as underdogs. To prove his point, he insisted that wife, was sentenced to exile in Siberia, Shelgunov insisted he and his wife go with him his wife be with as many other men as she wished, whereas he would remain loyal and so that the two lovers could be together. true. Is it perhaps now men´s turn to be the underdogs? Could it be that they even deserve Olga, the prettiest girl in Saratov, considered this an appealing prospect. Even if it? Is it, perhaps, inevitable? If women are used to working twice as hard for half the nihilist was neither attractive nor good conversation, he would supply a steady a chance, it would follow that once they achieve actual equality, they will advance income and otherwise let her do as she wished. In their nine year marriage she boasted quicker, and should before long find themselves in more positions of authority. Has the of many affairs, most notably with a Polish émigré in the alcove while her husband battle for women´s rights been won, or do we still have a long way to go? worked in the same room. When the nihilist was convicted of treason, she eventually We asked four young people (including my aging self ) for their thoughts on came to Petersburg for his trial, but went shopping and to the opera before visiting the situation for women in Iceland today. So, in the manner of a reality TV show, let him. Their relationship ended with his exile to Siberia. His feminist novel, What is to me say: Two guys, two girls, four points of view. be Done?, has been described “with reason as the worst novel ever written,” but was Valur Gunnarsson Were there no women in history? Icelandic male Reading through most history books, you find a conspicuous In the Sagas, women display a number of traits not traditionally of the major events (and have taken most of the credit), but no absence of women. Before the 19th Century, there´s Elisabeth considered feminine. They can be ambitious, vindictive, arrogant doubt they were often guided by strong-willed women behind of England, Catherine the Great of Russia, Cleopatra, Joan of and very, very cunning, using their wits as well as their beauty the scenes. Arc, but not many other key players to be found. One is given to get their way. Sometimes, they´re even physically braver than In our own time, women from Thatcher to Bruntland to Aquino the impression that their impact on history was slight. the men. In the Saga of Eric the Red, after coming to America, should have proved without a doubt that women can be just as The Sagas beg to differ. They are full of strong-willed women his daughter, Freydís, finds one of the men lying dead. At that effective leaders as men, whatever their polices, whereas recent who put events in motion. When the men are at each others moment the natives arrive again, and she bares her breasts and events in Iraq may have shown that they can be just as cruel throats, it is often the women who egged them on, prompting lays them on the dead man’s blade, which frightens the natives when presented with the tools of oppression. It is high time the saying “köld eru kvennaráð” (cold is a woman´s counsel). away. women were allowed to enter the history books. But from now Some scholars have even suggested that Laxdæla saga was Perhaps the Sagas give a more accurate portrayal of actual on, they will also have to share their part of the blame. written by a woman. gender relations in history. The men may have acted out most

IS FEMINISM STILL NECESSARY?

Paul Fontaine-Nikolov Eve Takes the Fall American exile I blame Justin Timberlake. And I blame CBS. Maybe I should the American public - rather, they too laughed at Ms. Jackson. in many ways are furthering the cause for equality, which isn’t even blame U.S. Attorney General John Ashcroft. But maybe I Is this some Adam and Eve thing, where both sexes are culpable easy. The general assumption among men is that “feminist men” should be thanking them as well. After all, they did remind us of doing something pretty innocuous and yet the woman takes are either spineless, “whipped”, or just plain strange and best all that feminism has a long way to go. the fall? Perhaps. But the reactions to this incident reminded me avoided. Since men are so sensitive about the opinion of their I’m referring, of course, to the “incident” at the Super Bowl how far feminism still has to go before any real equality will be peers, many choose to remain silent. when Janet Jackson’s breast was briefly exposed on national achieved. According to a Norwegian survey (www.likestilling. We also have to watch our own behavior and be sure that we television. Both Jackson and Timberlake admitted that this no), among unskilled workers, Icelandic women make about 883 don’t fall into the all-too-comfortable assumptions passed down thing was staged and just exposed more skin than intended, kronur for every 1000 a man makes. In skilled labour, that ratio from generation to generation. Most of all, if we can’t defend yet who got raked over the coals? Who got chuckled about on is 714 to every 1000 our mothers, daughters and sisters, do we even know what Jay Leno, chastised by CBS, and lambasted by Ashcroft? The It could it be that women are being paid less than men for the justice is? We have to remember that this is not an issue of woman, of course. same work because they’re not taken seriously. Need proof? Just gender; it’s an issue of humanity. The rights we fight for belong I know America’s a rabidly puritanical society, wherein watching flip channels some time on Icelandic television and see what to everyone. a woman being murdered on primetime TV is acceptable but gender is hosting which programs. When it comes to political Justin Timberlake is doing just fine; Janet Jackson has all but watching a woman being made love to is not. And it’s true that analysis, roundtable discussions, and interviews with the elite, disappeared from view. But I hope she makes a comeback, big the NFL’s complaint was that the Super Bowl is a “family show” you can always expect to see a man hosting the show. But if you time. Not that I’m a big fan of her music, but it’d be so nice to but even tiny infants have seen breasts up close and in personal. want to see what how the famous decorate their homes or what see her back again, unapologetic, doing what she does best. It’s And yes, it’s also true that Ashcroft is the same guy who ordered to wear this summer, well, that’s women’s work, isn’t it? at least comforting to know that she’ll probably outlive John a sheet draped over the Justice statue’s exposed breast once To make the equality between the genders not just a legal but a Ashcroft. Maybe his tight-lipped, puritanical, sexist ideas will before giving a speech, as it offended his tender sensibilities. But cultural reality takes the effort of both genders. It’s not just the die with him. The choice, as always, is ours. when the story broke here in Iceland, I was surprised by how woman’s burden for her to assert herself in the workplace, at many people didn’t talk about the overly puritanical reaction of home, on the street or in popular culture. Men can, should, and

Eydís Björnsdóttir The Girl Power Generation Grows Up Student Back in the days when I saw life in black and white, right the employer must hire the woman. Of course it should also be job then went to the Prime Minister’s nephew. The three or wrong, I would watch “Rosemary’s Baby” religiously and about whether the applicant suits the work atmosphere, to name men only had the Parliament’s ombudsman to turn to with then imagine her husband being pushed down the stairs one example. An employer should be able to hire anyone he (or their grievances, while the woman could complain to the as punishment for his wicked ways. My blood thirst only she) damn well pleases, anyway. Equal Rights committee as well, which is a group of people got stronger when I read the book and I had a hard time The University of Iceland offers something called “gender that investigates whether women applying for jobs have been understanding how women got stuck in abusive relationships. studies” (kynjafræði). These studies focus mainly on women, wrongfully turned down. Such committees are spreading fast Then life hit me. Some years and quite a number of life- their standing in different societies, the history of women’s fight and you can find one in almost every town in Iceland. Yes, it changing experiences later, my firm beliefs were not quite what for equal rights and feminist approaches in academic works. has gotten to the point where men have started to flee into they used to be. Gone was my irresistible longing to punish Apparently, men aren’t a gender. If you don’t believe me, feel other lines of work. More and more men are taking on women’s the treacherous villain, now that I had realised life just isn’t as free to look it up in the University’s book of modules. I admit uniforms as workers in health care and education. Women, on simple as that. To this day, I always get a mild shock when I I’m being just a little bit unfair, they do have one course on men the other hand, are taking over the University, where 62% of the hear a woman who wishes torture upon rapists or laws upon and manhood (karlar og karlmennska). But it is funny that they students are female. Their numbers have been rising fast, as only men who outrank her. And if there’s one thing I have little should specifically mention that this course not only looks at ten years ago they were little more than half of all the students. patience for, that’s women who demand equal rights. It’s not men’s constructive forces but their destructive ones as well. As long as women are treated as a minority group, we will never that I dislike what these feminist fascists are endlessly trying Now, I’m not saying that men are saints. But what surprises get any headway with the “unjust gap” between the sexes. Equal to accomplish, i.e. these so called “equal” rights. I just dislike me is that they haven’t remarked much on the fact that males rights are not about helping the minority groups. They’re about the way they go about it, claiming there to be great injustice are becoming the oppressed gender in society. Women get all making sure that no one gets special treatment, not even the in the way society works. I don’t care how they try to justify it, sorts of “special treatment” because we’re constantly being told minority groups. there just shouldn’t be a law saying that if two equally qualified that we are a minority group. Not too long ago four qualified people apply for the same job in a male dominant industry that people applied for the job of a Supreme Court judge. The

Katrín Anna Guðmundsdóttir Pink Choices Spokeswoman of the Feminist Association of Iceland The feminist movement in Iceland has taken a huge leap in date. We marched on Labour day, May 1st, all dressed in pink Mayor of Reykjavik and a representative from the Bishop of the last year or so. Being fed up of still getting less pay, too few and on June 19th, the day women got the right to vote, we Iceland. Much more was accomplished this week and it ended women in management and politics, pornification of the public organized a national campaign named “Let’s paint the town with a ball where female bands performed. More information space and lack of action to improve the situation, Icelandic pink”, in cooperation with other women’s organizations. That of what we have done can be found on our website, www. women and men joined forces in the Feminist Association day we encouraged everyone to show their support for equality feministinn.is. of Iceland. The Feminist Association of Iceland was founded by wearing something pink. We delivered pink coloured stones Gender plays a big role in our lives and men and women just over a year ago, on April 14th. The association has several to four significant men in our society: the President of Iceland, are viewed differently, meet different expectations and have groups that each concentrate on a specific topic. We have a the Minister of Health, The Mayor of Reykjavik and the Bishop different economical and political power. Our goal is not to security council that concentrates on reducing violence against of Iceland. The stones were an encouragement to remember to make everyone the same but to celebrate the diversity and to women, a stereotype group, culture group, men and feminism have equality in mind in all decision making. view our differences as equal. We want both genders to have as group, health group, education group, a web group, and a group The biggest event our first year was a 9-day Feminist Week, many options to choose from as possible and we want the pink for young feminists. There has been a lot of activity in the last filled with actions every day. We encouraged all women to choices to be just as important and valuable as the blue choices. year. We started just before the last parliamentary elections so ask for a 15% pay increase and asked employers to compare With this in mind we are currently organizing our second we organized meetings with all the parties, both before and after the wages between their female and male employees. We had campaign of “Let’s paint the town pink” with other women’s the election. This was also the season of beauty pageants so of an art exhibition with self portraits of women and another organizations. If you happen to be in Iceland on June 19th, course we wanted a discussion about the purpose of them in our one about pornography available through Icelandic websites. remember to put on something pink to show your support for society. We held symposiums about women’s health issues, women in equality. Among our actions was to open an art exhibition that showed management, pay difference, and met with three of the receivers the history of protests against beauty pageants from 1970 to of the Pink Stones from June 19th, the Minister of Health, the COLUMNS THE IDIOSYNCRACIES OF LEARNING ICELANDIC by Angela Stokes

Icelandic can be a daunting language to learn - aside from the unusual letters and the tongue-twisting consonant-clusters. Hver- agerði, a town in the south, is pronounced ‘kveragerthi’. The grammar in particular can appear outrageously complex, especially for those whose mother tongue grammar is simple by comparison. The idiosyncracies of learning Icelandic are not restricted to the grammar - the curious habit you may have noticed of inhaling words or even whole sentences ÞÖÐÝÆÚÐ to indicate something is clear, or mutually understood, was a feature I wasn’t keen on when I first came to Iceland nearly three years ago. Now this inhalation is so prevalent ÖÐÝÆÐÖ in my speech that it even affects my English, leading friends at home to believe I’d developed some bizarre form of asthma. ÆÖÐÐÞ To indicate a simple lack of comprehension, Icelanders normally exclaim ´Ha?´ in a tone more often gur ve ns reserved for confrontation in other of ÆÞÐ k Kal languages. It is another trait that doesn’t import well to English. only wish had English equivalents a world where minority languages Arnar- Lækjar- hóll Hverfisgata One advantage of learning Icelandic - for example, ´dugleg´ - a versatile, die out at astonishing rates, torg Ingólfsstræti

Bankastræti is that there are far fewer words in common adjective for anyone Icelanders hold proudly to their

Lækjargata the language than in English (one who has done a job well. It is well roots - although almost everyone you estimate I recently heard suggested known that Icelanders protect their meet here speaks excellent English English contains about a million language fiercely, with a special and some adverts now even appear words compared to approximately board appointed to create new words with English text, there is no sign 400,000 in Icelandic), indicating that for products like computers (tölvur) of a decline in the importance of mastering a basic vocabulary at least rather than borrowing from English the native language in this isolated should not be too taxing. like many other languages. It is also community. forbidden here to give your child As my understanding of Icelandic a name that is not on the official Icelandic is certainly a unique increases, I realise the beauty of list of acceptable Icelandic names, challenge for the language-learner, this ancient language - who can overseen by the Name Committee but with a rich heritage and a future fail to be moved for example by the (Mannanafnanefnd). Personally, hopefully secured by protective greeting ‘komdu sæl og blessuð’ this strikes me as a rather fascist measures, it seems it’s definitely - literally ‘Come to me joyfully and and limited system, coming from time, for me at least, to be ´dugleg´ blessed’ - an everyday way of saying a country where people are free to at learning more... Magnificent ‘hello’ here. I also discover words I name their children at will. But, in creatures up close Why Iceland is Inhabitable by Marcie Hume -or is it?

This winter, I saw people walking around with no hats, sometimes no coats, while I ventured out wrapped in endless layers of wool wearing the hood of my Gore-Tex jacket over my head. I was told I looked like a foreigner.

Experience Opening the door one morning, con- sidering the idea of going on a little the adventure walk, I stared out at the mountains of whale watching through the snow that tore through the sky sideways and realised, for the Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable trip into the world of whales and sea birds. Aboard first time, how it really is possible for the Elding I, you have a fantastic 360-degree someone to freeze to death in twenty panoramic view, plus a spectacular view into the minutes. deep blue sea. Located in Reykjavík´s old harbour, only a 20-minute journey can bring you up close to Summer is here and I´m excited. whales in their natural habitat. The grass is now the deepest green, migrating birds have ended their Call us now on: winter’s journeys and children play outside late into the evening where 555 3565 dusk replaces night. There´s a sense or go to: of ease on the streets, everyone is It looked like it was going to be a sunny day when he set off for Esjan www.elding.is friendlier; a stranger might even smile at you on the street. the Earth’s rotation which move the that this process is of much greater Daily departures . stream in an arc, so it brushes against influence on the climate here than Traditionally it was believed that our southern shores. the Gulf Stream. So it is due to both April May June July Aug Sept Oct none of this would be possible of these factors that Icelanders can 9:009:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 without the the Gulf Stream. The Recently, Gulf Stream researchers live happily through months of both 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 unseen force that is responsible for at Columbia University discovered ice and sun. 17:00 17:00 17:00 some of Western Europe’s warmer that it is only part of what makes weather, for making the winters Iceland’s climate more bearable. The Iceland is famous for its long livable and summers more summery. ocean retains heat throughout the shimmering summer days but in The Gulf Stream begins south of warmer months and slowly releases retrospect I find the winter more Florida, moves up the East Coast of it during the winter. Winds drop perplexing, more fulfilling. It is America and finally much of it shim- down over the Rocky Mountains during these dark months when I mies around Great Britain and the in the western United States and truly experience the grand sweep of Elding Whale Watching Faeroe Islands. The warmer water at continue forcefully over the Atlantic nature: enduring, existing, fighting Reykjavík, Iceland • Tel: (+354) 555 3565 the equator naturally moves towards Ocean, carrying the Atlantic’s heat against whatever weather falls from Fax: (+354) 554 7420 • [email protected] colder water further north. It is with them, all the way over to us the sky. It is winter that is the real helped on its way by the wind and here in Iceland. The study suggests heart of Iceland. INTERVIEW 13 EINAR MÁR by Bart Cameron Quiet, Confident and Ignored in America

publication is not well-known. I ask Along with writing two of the first sophisticated Icelandic him why such a small press, to which screenplays, six novels and a Nordic Prize-winning memoir, Einar he shrugs. He hadn’t even submitted. Hallgrímur Helgason had helped Már is frequently referred to as the father of the modern, popular him get it published. Icelandic poetry. I ask him to explain his effect on poetry to those who don’t read Icelandic. “It was just more sparse, my style. We “The saga writers had to wait.” were influenced by Bob Dylan, the Beatles, Baudelaire, the English While his work is translated into 20 Mercy Poets, the Beats...” languages, Mál og Menning is the only press publishing any of his work that’s where Björk is from.” in English.This seems a significant It is a polite rebuttal to the notion, slight. He shrugs it off: “Good lit- Einar Már Gudmundson is driving hinted at by Einar Már’s friend Hall- erature will always get through. The me back to 101 Reykjavík from his grímur Helgason and latched onto Saga writers had to wait 500 years.” suburban home in his soccer mom- by the Sirkus hipster crowd, that Then he indicates his frustration style SUV. He turns off the Icelandic all life in Iceland takes place in 101 with English-language presses: “In news and puts on a full-band, late Reykjavik. The art that inspires and America they are impatient. They 70s Dylan album. connects with Einar Már is the work are people like that at every national have a one-book rule. They don’t “Bob Dylan is an outsider, too. Or of writers in especially unhip places, library… and at every bus station. Small town writers work with authors. It’s the capital- maybe he is just an insider every- in urban sprawl where, he says, “the (The mention of bus stations is ization of the publishing industry.” where. He is from…” and then it children have to create their own especially eerie given the conclusion From the minute I arrive, Einar Már He grimaces at capitalization - he starts again, “HMMMMMMMM,” culture.” of Angels of the Universe based on starts grabbing books and tossing means this as a strong insult. louder and louder for about two Einar Már’s brother and his last few them into my hand. As he talks, he With that, Einar Már returns to his minutes. “Hmmmmmm,” as we Rambling Danes in libraries months at the Hlemmur bus termi- keeps as much of his thought process book stacks and starts discussing drive past Breiðholt. And I finally nal before committing suicide.) as transparent as possible-- hum- obscure writers with me: Richard interrupt and say “A small town It is only a fifteen minute ride to the ming when he is searching for an Brautigan, Sinclair Lewis, Aksel outside Duluth, Minnesota.” And National Library from his house, but I interviewed Einar Már for two extremely specific point, standing Andemose, William Heinesen - all he says “Hibbing, Minnesota. You in that time Einar Már never stops hours in his studio: a remodeled when he is explaining a broader these writers demonstrate his point see, small town. Everybody is always talking. He tells me that he spent garage covered floor-to-ceiling with idea that may be of mutual interest, that great writing can come out of traveling to find the center of things, five years at the Danish National heavily creased paperbacks in Eng- crawling on the floor to see book the smallest places. But, I want to and so often it is the place people are Library in Copenhagen which was lish, Danish, German and Icelandic, spines, overturning masses of seem- say, these writers are only known by leaving.” so comfortable and full of outsiders broken only by a wall of picture win- ingly organized stacks of books to other writers, they are barely in print. “It is true of the suburbs, too. Look, “like a bus station” which he visited dows which face the house and on show me photos of small towns in As Einar Már discusses Faroese we are in my suburb now. This is when he went back to Denmark no which his family knocks and waves Minnesota and small town writers. writing in detail, flipping through where I grew up, not far from Bubbi longer as lonely and no longer as frequently, a large black and white The table in front of me has a tower Heinesen’s Lost Musicians, I see any (the singer/ songwriter known as broke as he once had been, where photo that seems to show Einar Már of books to explain his point, with talk of sales or fame would be entire- Iceland’s Bob Dylan). And Fridrik he found the same rambling Dane with long hair, rebelling, but that Ljóð, Einar Már’s hefty collection ly off-topic. Einar Már would simply Þór (the director of Angels of the working on his dissertation on Joyce, may well be his deceased brother of works since 1980 on bottom. He like his books to be read quietly and Universe and two other films Einar where he found the same American Páll. He granted the interview de- digs through another stack and gives appreciated. It isn’t the attitude that Már wrote) was just a building over. who claimed a new best friend every spite the fact that he is in the middle me some translations of his poetry in gets books flying off the shelves at And then out on the next suburb, month and a new course of study of writing a novel and is otherwise a small American literary magazine, Barnes and Noble, but it’s an attitude the suburb of the next generation, every year, it is nice to know there making few public appearances. Visions. The poetry is strong, but the has allowed for great writing. NONNI OG MANNI | YDDA / SIA.IS / NM12486 Visitors

Open all afternoons this welcome! summer. For more information see www.lv.is or call 515 9000 Art shows in Landsvirkjun’s power stations enrich travel in Iceland

Krafla Geothermal Station Sultartangi Station - south Iceland Laxá station - north Iceland

Sightseeing and leisure Faces of Thjórsá Valley In the vaults A visitors‘ centre has been set up at the Krafla For 1100 years. The face of ignorance, pride and Station with videos outlining its history. arrogance, devils and imps from the series Whims (Los Caprichos) In cooperation with the Akureyri Art Museum. Ljósafoss station - south Iceland Blanda station - north Iceland The Nordic gods Sculptures by Hallsteinn Sigurdsson and information about the Nordic gods and their view of the world. Exhibit of photographs Holy cow! Natural beauty in the human environment. Art exhibit - one picture for each day of the Open from June 5 on. Exhibit of oil paintings entire “Great Cow Year of 2003.” Open every will open in July. day from June 12. WANDERINGS THE CARS THAT SHAPED THE GENERATIONS Land Rover Originally created in the aftermath of World War II as a bulletproof all terrain vehicle for the army, it soon found popularity among farmers, and nowhere more so than here. Hordes were imported in the late 60´s, and some of these are still in service.

Subaru Station Subaru is a Japanese word which means “Unite.” In the late 80´s they did just that for the average Ice- lander. Every other nuclear family in Iceland seemed to be transported around in one of these. They fell out of favour, as most things do, but you can still see them being used by carpenters for moving materials around.

Volkswagen Beetle Designed by Hitler but became the favourite car of the hippies. The 60´s only came to Iceland in the 70´s, and the beetle became the car of choice for the generation that saw cars as a mode of transport rather than status symbols. It has recently gone out of production.

Toyota Landcruiser In Iceland, where the weather tends to be very unpredictable, the rich don´t drive limo´s or sports cars. They drive jeeps which allows them to leave the city as well as to look down at others in traffic. This is the slightly cheaper version for those who can´t afford a Range Rover.

Lada Sport In the days of the Cold War, Iceland traded more with Eastern Europe that any other country bar Finland. This took the form of bartering, and fish was shipped east in exchange for Polish chocolate, Czech cartoons and Russian cars. Ladas and Trabants were frequent sights on the streets. 15 ��

photo by Aldís Pálsdóttir Icelanders rarely go to church outside of weddings and funerals. For the last three decades, however, there has been something of a revival in the worship of the Old Norse gods. Iceland became Christian in the year 1000, and it wasn’t until 1973 that the old gods were once again granted VIKINGS AND ODIN official recognition. At the time, it was the only country where such recognition was granted, but Norway WORSHIPPERS has since followed suit. The religion today numbers some 700 members. Hold Their Annual Festival The order has become intertwined with the Viking festival, held in Hafnafjörður every year at summer solstice, where worshippers and Viking aficionados gather together from all over the world. This year, the festival runs from the 16th to the 20th of June. Among the attractions is a virtual fight between Christian and heathen Vikings. Sparks fly as blades clash, shields are battered and men are bruised, and the Christians will, no doubt, be soundly beaten. The Viking ship Icelander accepts passengers for cruises, and this years special guests are a theatre group from Africa. The host of the event is, as always, the Viking Elvis himself, Steinn Ármann. At six o’ clock on the final day, the pagans march, in full Viking regalia of course, towards the stone gate by the harbour and raise their flags, coincidentally at the seat of the first Lutheran church in Iceland. Thereaf- ter, the Allsherjargoði, the head of the worshippers, consecrates the festival by lighting their symbol. The festival accommodates all sorts, from English- men primarily interested in the fighting styles, to more peaceful Swedes more interested in the storytelling aspect of Vikingdom, to American true believers who come here to worship the old Gods. But everyone is welcome to participate, and get some impression of what life was like here in Viking times. And the pagans are known to be generous with the beer. 16 GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey, pull it out and put it in your pocket. CAFE´S 4. Súfistinn popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like the ham and cheese sandwich) and internet. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world admission or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Laugavegur 18 the city it’s named after. famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- starving artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hang- A smoke-free café in the city centre, right inside Mál & Menning In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and BARS & BISTRO ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is out for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might 1. Segafredo bookstore. You can buy or borrow books, magazines and newspapers artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently wander in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One 31. Við Tjörnina 41. Nonnabiti By Lækjartorg from the bookstore, and read them there over a cup of coffee and/or the weather is nice. in the film. of the best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. Templarasund 3 Hafnarstræti 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead The most novel fish restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but a snack. 11. Hverfisbar Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You 8. Tíu Dropar Hverfisgata 20 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 Marvinsson, is known for innovative fish dishes made from a variety this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík can smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what the fuss of rare fish and shellfish and related raw materials. Mr. Marvinsson is area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy is Italian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega 5. Mokka Laugavegur 27 Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 also a respected food and cooking personality and the author of several living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing With the exception of Mokka, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in was about, or whether the queue was in fact the best part. When it’s “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Iceland’s isn’t one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing Skólavörðustígur 3a cookbooks. His respect for his raw materials is a tribute to fish and “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, the decor, four o’clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going strong, this With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, premier rock band Mínus are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is how much things cost might ruin your vacation. An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. Chef lunchtime offers. the tables and the chairs, along with the service makes you feel very might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time you probably won’t welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be recited most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls Marvinsson is really a natural wonder and a particular favourite with much at home. It’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in care that the same song seems to come on every half hour. ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were come down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal Icelanders! 2. Ráðhúskaffi customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with 42. Serranos City Hall really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the constant changes, with new items every day. 12. Café 22 musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper Hafnarstræti 20 With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City 21. Kaffi Kúltur A Mexican themed eatery, but light on the chilli. Slightly cheaper and café since its inception. Laugavegur 22 floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 32. Tveir Fiskar Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access Hverfisgötu 18 Geirsgötu 9 lighter on the cholesterol than its neighbour Nonni, but somehow Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 9. Café Árnes Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At not quite as fulfilling, although you might feel better in the morning. to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its model of Iceland. 6. Kaffivagninn By the harbour 15. Nelly’s lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too You can get a large burrito and soft drink for 599, which is one of the Once a ferry, Café Árnes has recently been turned into a coffeeshop quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just Grandagarður 10 Þingholtsstræti 2 bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the cheaper ways to fill your belly in this far too expensive town. by day and seafood restaurant by night. The cardeck in the basement Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers and Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. 3. Grái Kötturinn now functions as a bar. Situated by the harbour (obviously), have a wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. aging tough guys gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be Hverfisgata 16a out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes, or bread with smoked lamb, traditional waffle with lots of jam and cream and watch the whale covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after midnight. this is the right place to see another side of Reykjavík. watchers come in. large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after place to learn as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. 33. Apotek Bergstaðastæti 13 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place midnight on weekends. Austurstræti 16 A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 13. Kaffibarinn Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in the late changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat 7. Café Paris 10. Bleika Dúfan 22. Jón Forseti 1800s, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant with an Art Deco way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: Laugavegi 21 Bergstaðastræti 1 pricey. Austurstræti 14 16. Vegamót Aðalstræti 10 interior. You can still see the names of the chief managing pharmacists/ a snúður roll with chocolate milk. The name means the Pink Pigeon. A bookstore that specialises in Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides The oldest house in Reykjavík is now, you guessed it, a gay club. Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, Vegamótastígur 4 owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this “drugstore” serves a different books in English, so there are a lot of foreigners there as well as people itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress Named after founding father and national hero Jón Sigurðsson, who type of milkshake. Now look for a sizzling visual kitchen (behind a who work in the surrounding area. A mostly veggie menu (apart from world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in lived there for a while, it now has various events, including concerts, 44. Bæjarins bestu glass wall) with a Super Menu! Apotek is an eating experience not to there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. plays and a gay cabaret, performed on a small stage that tries its best to be missed. Tryggvagata Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend look big with curtains and everything. So how long until they change They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product brunch. Try the lobster pizza. George Washington’s old place into a gay bar? You heard it here first. lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog 34. Vox in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw �� 17. Kaffibrennslan 23. Café List Nordica Hotel onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. Perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant, bistro, bar in a four-star hotel, Pósthússtræti 9 Laugavegur 20a the Vox looks at first glance like a fancy cafeteria spiced up for an One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the “List” means “art”, the art mostly consisting of jazz bands that play 45. Pizza 67 �� official reception. But please do not let that glance throw you off! The �� few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation there frequently. Looks perhaps more like a hotel bar than a seedy jazz �� restaurant has a modern interior with extremely un-Icelandic décor, Tryggvagata 26 after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, club, but the prices of beer has gone down, so they deserve our support. The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who however the kitchen saves the situation. Run by a master chef, a recent they are generous with the refills. currently operate a place in the Faeroes and China, as well as all over winner of the super gastro competition “Bocuse d’Or,” the Menu is Iceland. The have a Summer of Love theme, which doesn’t really �� 24. Glaumbar tops. The Culture House �� extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a few slogans and a few posters, 18. Celtic Cross Tryggvagata 20 but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. They have a lunchtime This American looking bar often feels like the Beverly Hillbillies have � Hverfisgata 26 35. 3 Frakkar buffet for 990, for those in search of quantity for the króna. � Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title of come to downtown Reykjavík, got drunk and ended up here. A classic Baldursgata 14 Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the coffin in pick up joint for those who’ve tried everything else and are running �� This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with The first modern building to be built entirely by Icelanders and opened the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every night, a trouba- out of options. 46. Eldsmiðjan an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic �� dour on the upper floor and a band in the basement, both doing their in 1909. It was originally called The Museum House and housed most of traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- Bragagata 38a �� best to make a living as human jukeboxes. Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly �� ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re Iceland´s museums, such as the National Museum and National History 25. Dillon more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the �� Laugavegur 30 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can A nice place to sit and chat, good folk themed music and no dance floor clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for Museum as well as the Natural Library. These have all been moved but what 19. Grand Rokk also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll �� to worry about. Has interesting horse themed décor, and the balcony is dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Smiðjustígur 6 rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy remains is a museum of the museum as well as the Sagas exhibit which houses A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do open on the weekends. Finds a nice medium somewhere between the forget to make a reservation! �� restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. medieval manuscripts, an exhibition marking 100 years of home rule and a �� covers. Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no hipsters and the drunks. �� less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge collection of rare books from the National Library. A postmodern medieval �� 36. Naustið 47. Vitabar �� 26. Dubliner Vesturgata 6-8 �� Probably the oldest traditional restaurant in Reykjavik, Naustið has a Bergþórugata 21 house then. � �� Hafnarstræti 4 Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that it’s a reputation for fine food and service tailormade for visiting groups. The for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends there’s also a large main dining room is fashioned as the interior of a ship. Here the tables �� go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The influx of locals, often of the slightly older variety. If you like the darker and booths are named after famous vessels. Visiting royalties have made �� Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. �� stuff on tap, this is probably the best place to go. this place a must for traditional Icelandic food, such as pickled sheep �� testicles and other delights. �� 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) �� 37. Tapas Laugavegur 20b CLUBS Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the Vesturgata 3b same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- 27. Gaukur á Stöng can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can while away ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and � Tryggvagata 22 the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes. wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a pool Particularly recommended is the garlic-fried lobster and duck in apricot slips slightly over in the evening. pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by more sauce. If afterwards you don’t feel like getting up right away, there’s � mainstream bands. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with also a rather large lounge to relax in, and the paintings are worth a look. �� cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. Without 49. Pizza Pronto exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance in the evenings. 38. Jómfrúin Vallarstræti 4 Crowd: 20+ Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. Lækjargata 4 �� A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of 28. Nasa Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Nice, but seems by Austurvöllur rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly �� a bit pricey for the surroundings. �� Used to be a theatre, but is now a club. Great sound system and oc- from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. �� casional live bands. The towns biggest club, but the high prices do limit the crowd somewhat. Admission 1000 krónur. �� 39. Rossopomodoro 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company �� Laugavegur 40a Laugavegur 81 Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- 29. Pravda This is a new chain of eateries trying to move away from the American stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� Austurstræti 22 image of pizza joints. Originally a local Napoli venture, now a string of �� morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. Despite its Soviet-themed name, this is a place where young and modestly cool restaurants striving to make it in Northern Europe. Ice- �� heavily made-up consumers go to flaunt it. Somehow the word “plastic” land is one of the first places for Rossopomodoro outside Italy. A clever comes to mind, along with dyed hair and solarium tans. Look out for beginning in a country absolutely free from Neopolitan traditions. A �� Ken and Barbie, as they are known to party here from time to time. modest wine list with good prices � �� 30. Kapital 40. 101 Hotel Hafnarstræti 17 Hverfisgata 10 �� The town’s premier dance music venue. Regularly features top dance The former headquarters of the Icelandic Social Democratic Party DJ’s from around the world, as well as the hottest local talent. Watch completely reformed, by owner/designer I. Pálmadóttir, to a Mecca of �� out for DJ Fashionably laid, who is also the art director of a reputable the capitalist world of fine arts, contemporary architecture and beautiful �� local publication. Occasional live bands as well. Huge dance floors on people. The hotel is elegant, the restaurant/cafeteria fashionable and �� both floors. the atmosphere is international. A perfect place to have a glance at the �� jetset eating hamburgers! The martinis are super. �� THEY DON’T GIVE CHANGE 17

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Useful for emergencies Emergency phone 112 fire, police, ambulance Emergency Ward, City Hospital 24hrs. 525-1000 CAFE´S 4. Súfistinn popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like the ham and cheese sandwich) and internet. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world admission or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Doctor: 1770 Laugavegur 18 the city it’s named after. famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- starving artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hang- Dentist: 575-0505 A smoke-free café in the city centre, right inside Mál & Menning In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and BARS & BISTRO ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is out for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might Directory information 118 1. Segafredo bookstore. You can buy or borrow books, magazines and newspapers artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently wander in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One 31. Við Tjörnina 41. Nonnabiti Pharmacies find your closest or call 118 By Lækjartorg from the bookstore, and read them there over a cup of coffee and/or the weather is nice. in the film. of the best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. Templarasund 3 Hafnarstræti 11 McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead The most novel fish restaurant in Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but a snack. 11. Hverfisbar Internet Café’s Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You 8. Tíu Dropar Hverfisgata 20 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 Marvinsson, is known for innovative fish dishes made from a variety this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, 101 Rvk. 563-2169 can smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff of rare fish and shellfish and related raw materials. Mr. Marvinsson is area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy BSI, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, 101 Rvk. 591-1000 Laugavegur 27 Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what the fuss Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 is Italian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega 5. Mokka also a respected food and cooking personality and the author of several living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing Netkaffi, Kringlan mall, 103 Rvk. 533-2424 With the exception of Mokka, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in was about, or whether the queue was in fact the best part. When it’s “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Iceland’s isn’t one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing Skólavörðustígur 3a cookbooks. His respect for his raw materials is a tribute to fish and “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have Reykjavík Travel Service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk. 511-2442 downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, the decor, four o’clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going strong, this With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, premier rock band Mínus are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is how much things cost might ruin your vacation. An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik shellfish, showing off their natural goodness without artificiality. Chef lunchtime offers. the tables and the chairs, along with the service makes you feel very might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time you probably won’t welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be recited most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 4, 101 Rvk. 562-7776 and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls Marvinsson is really a natural wonder and a particular favourite with much at home. It’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in care that the same song seems to come on every half hour. ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were come down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal Icelanders! Useful Websites 2. Ráðhúskaffi your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with 42. Serranos customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a www.icelandtourist.is City Hall constant changes, with new items every day. musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper Hafnarstræti 20 really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the 12. Café 22 21. Kaffi Kúltur www.visitreykjavik.is With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 32. Tveir Fiskar A Mexican themed eatery, but light on the chilli. Slightly cheaper and café since its inception. Laugavegur 22 www.grapevine.is Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access Hverfisgötu 18 Geirsgötu 9 lighter on the cholesterol than its neighbour Nonni, but somehow Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 9. Café Árnes Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At not quite as fulfilling, although you might feel better in the morning. to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its Car rentals model of Iceland. 6. Kaffivagninn By the harbour 15. Nelly’s lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too You can get a large burrito and soft drink for 599, which is one of the Once a ferry, Café Árnes has recently been turned into a coffeeshop quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just ALP 562-6060 Grandagarður 10 Þingholtsstræti 2 bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the cheaper ways to fill your belly in this far too expensive town. by day and seafood restaurant by night. The cardeck in the basement Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and Avis 591-4000 By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers and Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. 3. Grái Kötturinn now functions as a bar. Situated by the harbour (obviously), have a wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. Berg car rental 577-6050 aging tough guys gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be Budget 567-8300 Hverfisgata 16a out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes, or bread with smoked lamb, traditional waffle with lots of jam and cream and watch the whale covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a 43. Bernhöftsbakarí Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after midnight. Europcar 591-4050 this is the right place to see another side of Reykjavík. watchers come in. large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after place to learn as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor. 33. Apotek Bergstaðastæti 13 very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place midnight on weekends. Austurstræti 16 A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has SBK car rental 420-6000 to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional 13. Kaffibarinn Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in the late changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat 7. Café Paris 10. Bleika Dúfan 22. Jón Forseti 1800s, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant with an Art Deco way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond: Other useful numbers Laugavegi 21 Bergstaðastræti 1 pricey. Austurstræti 14 16. Vegamót Aðalstræti 10 interior. You can still see the names of the chief managing pharmacists/ a snúður roll with chocolate milk. City bus info, 551-2700 The name means the Pink Pigeon. A bookstore that specialises in Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides The oldest house in Reykjavík is now, you guessed it, a gay club. Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, Vegamótastígur 4 owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this “drugstore” serves a different BSÍ bus info, 591-1000 books in English, so there are a lot of foreigners there as well as people itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress Named after founding father and national hero Jón Sigurðsson, who type of milkshake. Now look for a sizzling visual kitchen (behind a who work in the surrounding area. A mostly veggie menu (apart from world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in lived there for a while, it now has various events, including concerts, 44. Bæjarins bestu glass wall) with a Super Menu! Apotek is an eating experience not to Post offices there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. plays and a gay cabaret, performed on a small stage that tries its best to be missed. Tryggvagata Central Post office, Pósthússtræti 5, 101 Rvk. 580-1000. Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend look big with curtains and everything. So how long until they change They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product Post offices are easily found around Iceland brunch. Try the lobster pizza. George Washington’s old place into a gay bar? You heard it here first. lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog 34. Vox in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw Laundry Services 17. Kaffibrennslan 23. Café List Nordica Hotel onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better. Emla laundry, Barónsstígur 3, 101 Rvk, 552-4799 Perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant, bistro, bar in a four-star hotel, A Smith laundry, Bergstaðastræti 52, 101 Rvk, 551-7140 Pósthússtræti 9 Laugavegur 20a the Vox looks at first glance like a fancy cafeteria spiced up for an One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the “List” means “art”, the art mostly consisting of jazz bands that play 45. Pizza 67 official reception. But please do not let that glance throw you off! The Taxi services few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation there frequently. Looks perhaps more like a hotel bar than a seedy jazz restaurant has a modern interior with extremely un-Icelandic décor, Tryggvagata 26 Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir 588-5522 after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget, club, but the prices of beer has gone down, so they deserve our support. The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who however the kitchen saves the situation. Run by a master chef, a recent Borgarbílastöðin 552-2440 they are generous with the refills. currently operate a place in the Faeroes and China, as well as all over winner of the super gastro competition “Bocuse d’Or,” the Menu is BSR 561-0000 Iceland. The have a Summer of Love theme, which doesn’t really tops. 24. Glaumbar extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a few slogans and a few posters, Rent a bike 18. Celtic Cross Tryggvagata 20 but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. They have a lunchtime Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk 551-5653 This American looking bar often feels like the Beverly Hillbillies have Hverfisgata 26 35. 3 Frakkar buffet for 990, for those in search of quantity for the króna. Reykjavík travel service, Lækjargata 2, 101 Rvk, 511-2442 Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title of come to downtown Reykjavík, got drunk and ended up here. A classic Baldursgata 14 Reykjavík Youth Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, 105. Rvk. Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the coffin in pick up joint for those who’ve tried everything else and are running This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with 533-8110 the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every night, a trouba- out of options. 46. Eldsmiðjan an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic dour on the upper floor and a band in the basement, both doing their traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- Bragagata 38a Selected swimming pools best to make a living as human jukeboxes. Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re Laugardalslaug, Sundlaugarvegur 105 Rvk. 25. Dillon more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the Sundhöllin, Barónsstígur, 101 Rvk. Laugavegur 30 of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can A nice place to sit and chat, good folk themed music and no dance floor clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for Vesturbæjarlaug, Hofsvallagata, 101 Rvk. 19. Grand Rokk also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll to worry about. Has interesting horse themed décor, and the balcony is dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t Smiðjustígur 6 rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do open on the weekends. Finds a nice medium somewhere between the forget to make a reservation! restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. covers. Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no hipsters and the drunks. less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge 36. Naustið 47. Vitabar 26. Dubliner Vesturgata 6-8 Probably the oldest traditional restaurant in Reykjavik, Naustið has a Bergþórugata 21 Hafnarstræti 4 Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that it’s a reputation for fine food and service tailormade for visiting groups. The for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends there’s also a large main dining room is fashioned as the interior of a ship. Here the tables go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The influx of locals, often of the slightly older variety. If you like the darker and booths are named after famous vessels. Visiting royalties have made Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. stuff on tap, this is probably the best place to go. this place a must for traditional Icelandic food, such as pickled sheep testicles and other delights. 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) 37. Tapas Laugavegur 20b CLUBS Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the Vesturgata 3b same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- 27. Gaukur á Stöng can hardly be better spent than at Tapas, where you can while away ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and � Tryggvagata 22 the evening having course after course of wonderful miniature dishes. wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a pool Particularly recommended is the garlic-fried lobster and duck in apricot slips slightly over in the evening. pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by more sauce. If afterwards you don’t feel like getting up right away, there’s � mainstream bands. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with also a rather large lounge to relax in, and the paintings are worth a look. �� cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. Without 49. Pizza Pronto exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance in the evenings. 38. Jómfrúin Vallarstræti 4 Crowd: 20+ Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night. Lækjargata 4 �� A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of 28. Nasa Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Nice, but seems by Austurvöllur rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly �� a bit pricey for the surroundings. �� Used to be a theatre, but is now a club. Great sound system and oc- from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. �� casional live bands. The towns biggest club, but the high prices do limit the crowd somewhat. Admission 1000 krónur. �� 39. Rossopomodoro 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company �� Laugavegur 40a Laugavegur 81 Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- 29. Pravda This is a new chain of eateries trying to move away from the American stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the �� Austurstræti 22 image of pizza joints. Originally a local Napoli venture, now a string of �� morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street. Despite its Soviet-themed name, this is a place where young and modestly cool restaurants striving to make it in Northern Europe. Ice- �� heavily made-up consumers go to flaunt it. Somehow the word “plastic” land is one of the first places for Rossopomodoro outside Italy. A clever comes to mind, along with dyed hair and solarium tans. Look out for beginning in a country absolutely free from Neopolitan traditions. A �� Ken and Barbie, as they are known to party here from time to time. modest wine list with good prices � �� 30. Kapital 40. 101 Hotel Hafnarstræti 17 Hverfisgata 10 �� The town’s premier dance music venue. Regularly features top dance The former headquarters of the Icelandic Social Democratic Party DJ’s from around the world, as well as the hottest local talent. Watch completely reformed, by owner/designer I. Pálmadóttir, to a Mecca of GREAT SELECTION OF THE out for DJ Fashionably laid, who is also the art director of a reputable �� the capitalist world of fine arts, contemporary architecture and beautiful BEST ICELANDIC MUSIC �� local publication. Occasional live bands as well. Huge dance floors on people. The hotel is elegant, the restaurant/cafeteria fashionable and �� both floors. the atmosphere is international. A perfect place to have a glance at the The Best INDIE / POP / CLASSICAL / JAZZ / ELECTRO / FOLK jetset eating hamburgers! The martinis are super. �� Please visit and enjoy good music and free espresso coffee �� or tea. �� And we offer Tax Free Shopping! �� Spot in Skólavörðustígur 15 �� Phone: 511-5656 �� THEY DON’T GIVE CHANGE Reykjavík What´s the best spot in Reykja- Reykjavík has no trams, trains or subways, only buses. These yellow things can take you pretty vík to eat, drink or just to hang much anywhere in Reykjavík’s suburb areas. It’s a slow system and you might have to change buses out? Send your suggestions to a couple of times to get where you want to though usually things run smoothly, and on time. The [email protected] or to Reykjavík price of a single fare is 220kr, for an adult, (60kr for children under 12). If you are in town for more Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 than a few days then the 9 ticket package for 1500kr would be a better bet. Bus cards valid for two Reykjavík. Entries will be put into weeks a month or three months are also available. You have to pay as you step on board and it has a hat and one will receive a meal for to be the accurate amount, unless you want to pay more for your ride. The driver can not change two at the establishment of our (no, your money. For those of you used to the honesty system, this system is as honest, because if you we didn´t forget the y) choice. Ad- don’t pay, you don’t ride. You can ask the driver for a free time-limited exchange ticket, if you need ditionally, we welcome suggestions two buses to complete your journey. to places that belong on our list but aren´t, as well as thoughts on what The bus system is closed during the night, you can catch your first bus between 6:40 and 7:00 in is on the list but shouldn´t be. Re- the morning, and last call is around 24:00. The main bus stops in Reykjavik are Hlemmur and sults will be announced fortnightly. Lækjartorg (see map), there you’ll be able to get all the information you need.

Don’t Nordica Hotel compromise Sudurlandsbraut 2 We don’t 108 Reykjavik, Iceland � � � � � Tel: (+354) 444-5050 Fax: (+354) 444-5001 “...the meals were simply [email protected] the best I have enjoyed in an www.vox.is Icelandic restaurant this year."

Food and wine critic – Morgunblaðið Daily Newspaper September 7th 2003 RESTAURANT 18

Museums Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9, p: 511-3474 ADDRESS BOOK ASÍ. Art Museum, Freyjugata 41, 511-5353 Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 Árbæjarsafn Folk Museum, Kistuhylur 4, p: 557-1111 Vox Nordica Hotel, Suðurlandsbraut 2, p: 444-5050 THE NEW QUEENS Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum, Sigtún, p: 553-2155 Cafés Culture House, Hverfisgata 15, p: 545-1400 Bleika Dúfan, Laugavegur 21, p: 517-1980 Einar Jónsson, Sculpture museum, Einarsgata, p: 551-3797 Café Árnes, by the harbour, p: 551-5101 Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery, Hamraborg 4, p:551-3797 Café Paris, Austurstræti 14, p: 551-1020 BEGIN THEIR RULE Gerðuberg Cultural Center, Gerðuberg 3-5, p:577-0440 Grái Kötturinn, Hverfisgata 16a, p: 551-1544 Hafnarborg Art Gallery, Srandgata 34 Hafnarfj, 555-0080 Kaffivagninn, Grandagarður 10, p: 551-5932 Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art museum, Tryggvagata 17, p: 590-1200 Mokka, Skólavörðustígur 3a, p: 552-1174 by Bart Cameron Icelandic Institute of Natural History, Hlemmur 5, p:590-0500 Ráðhúskaffi, City Hall, p: 563-2169 Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum, Flókagata, p: 517-1290 Segafredo by Lækjartorg, p: Museum of Medical History, Neströð 170, p: 561-1016 Súfistinn, Laugavegur 18, p: 552-3740 National Film Archive, Vesturgata 11-13 Hafnarfj, p: 565-5994 Tíu Dropar, Laugavegur 27, p: 551-9380 National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, p: 515-9600 Café, Bar and Bistro Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, p: 551-7030 Ari í Ögri, Ingólfsstræti 3, p: 551-9660 Numismatic Collection of the Central Bank, Einholt 4, p: 569-9964 Bar 11, Laugavegur 11, p: 511-1180 Reykjavík Botanical Garden, Laugardalur, p: 553-8870 Café 22, Laugavegur 22, p: 511-5522 Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1750 Café List, Laugavegur 20a, p: 511-1420 Reykjavík Elestrivity Museum, Rafstöðvarvegur, p: 567-9009 Café Victor, Hafnarstræti 1-3, p: 561-9555 Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, p: 563-1790 Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, p: 511-3240 Reykjavík Zoo & Family Park, Engjavegur, p: 575-7800 De Palace, Hafnarstræti 18, p: 551-6780 Saga Museum, Perlan Öskjuhlíð, p: 511-1517 Dillon, Laugavegur 20, 511-2400 Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum, Lauganestangi 70, p: 553-2906 Dubliner, Hafnarstræti 4, 511-3233 Telecommunications Museum, Suðurgata, p: 550-6410 Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20, p: 552-6868 Galleries Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, p: 551-5522 Art Studio Gallery, Vesturgata 12, p: 562-5757 Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20, p: 561-2240 Kling og Bang, Laugavegi 23, p: 822-0402 Hverfisbar, Hverfisgata 20, p: 511-6700 Gallery Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14-16, p: 551-0400 Jón Forseti, Aðalstræti 10, p: 551-0962 am looking at three men dressed as nuns stretching out their legs Gallery Hnoss, Skólavörðustígur 16, p: 561-8485 Kaffi Kúltur, Hverfisgötu 18, p: 530-9314 I Gallery Hulduhólar, Hulduhólar, p: 566-6194 Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1, p: 551-1588 for our photographer. A fourth member of the Vanity and Hoping Gallery i8, Klapparstígur 33, p: 551-3666 Kaffibrennslan, Pósthússtræti 9, p: 561-3600 Gallery Meistari Jakob, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 552-7161 Nelly’s, Þingholtsstræti 2, p: 551-2477 for Wind in the Sail gay amateur theatre group tells me “This is not Gallery Ófeigur, Skólavörðustígur 5, p: 551-1161 Prikið, Bankastræti 12, p: 551-3366 your typical drag show.” Gallery Sævar Karl, Bankastræti 7, p: 551-3470 Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30 Gallery Tukt, Pósthússtræti 3-5, p: 520-4600 Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, p: 562-3232 Hafnarhúsið, Tryggvagata 17 harbour side, p:588-7576 Thorvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 “We’re changing what a drag show smiling maniacally, and breaking Handverk og Hönnun, Aðalstræti 12, p: 551-7595 Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4, p: 511-3040 is. I’ll be singing in Arabic,” he says, into flat-out pantomime and Safn, Laugavegur 37, p: 561-8777 Clubs and then gives a crotch-exposing physical comedy. Following this, SÍM-house, Hafnarstræti 16, p: 551-1346 Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22, p: 551-1556 pose. three nuns descended the staircase Teddi Workshop, Kapparstígur 2 Kapital, Hafnarstræti 17, p: 511-7007 The Icelandic Printmakers Association, Tryggvagata 17, p: 588-7576 I haven’t been backstage at many at stage right and presented a Leikhúskjallarinn, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-6010 Other Mojito, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7905 drag shows, but the mood isn’t what remarkably strong improv sketch Hallgrímskirkja church, Skólavörðuholti, p: 510-1000 Nasa, by Austurvöllur, p: 511-1313 I expected. that moved from bawdy to campy Klink og Bank, Brautarholt, p: 822-0402 Pravda, Austurstræti 22, p: 552-9222 A French-Canadian with the stage to relaxed and earnest as the nuns Theaters Fastfood name Salammbo says this is the only harmonized, monkeyed with Borgarleikhúsið, City Theatre, Listabraut 3, p: 568-8000 Bæjarins bestu, Tryggvagata, p: 894-4515 place he’s done a drag show. “There instruments and provided a grad Þjóðleikhúsið, National Theatre, Hverfisgata 19, p: 551-1200 Bernhöftsbakarí, Bergstaðastæti 13, p: 551-3083 is no woman in me trying to come school style metadrag moment when Restaurants Eldsmiðjan, Bragagata 38a, p: 562-3838 out,” he says deadpan through heavy a particularly shy nun was dressed 101 Hotel, Hverfisgata 10, p: 580-0101 First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum), Laugavegur 20b, p: 552-8410 3 Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 Nonnabiti, Hafnarstræti 11, p: 551-2312 make-up. up as a glamorous woman on stage Apótek Bar Grill, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7900 Pizza 67, Tryggvagata 26, p: 561-9900 “We’re all writers,” he says. I and broke into “Dancing Queen.” Pizza Pronto, Vallarstræti 4, p: 517-5445 Jómfrúin, Lækjargata 4, p: 551-0100 notice that, at present, everyone in The highlight of the evening was Naustið, Vesturgata 6-8, p: 554-0500 Reykjavík Bagel Company, Laugavegur 81, p: 511-4500 Rossopomodoro, Laugavegur 40a, p: 561-0500 Serranos, Hafnarstræti 20, p: 551-1754 the room is speaking in Icelandic, a pitch-perfect performance of Tapas, Vesturgata 3b, p: 551-2344 Vitabar, Bergþórugata 21, p: 551-7200 Swedish, French and English at a prissy blonde succumbing to once. alcoholism while putting on a “How many of you are graduate cooking demonstration. (The actor’s students?” I ask. resemblance to the host of the “At least eighty percent,” he says. television show Folk added greatly He then gives a nervous laugh. “I’m to the amusement.) The evening so stressed.” also provided more standard drag It is the first time I’ve seen anyone fare, and, indeed, it also included here not look fully self-assured. I ask an “Iraq in Drag” section, which if he’s suffering from stage fright. brought the full house of Icelanders “No. My partner got into a brawl last to tears, but left those of us from night and can’t go on stage.” more politically correct backgrounds His partner, an Icelander going a little bewildered. by the stage name Alexandra Gloppovich, is helping with In the end, the show provided the backstage preparations. He sports relaxed anything goes atmosphere fresh stitches over his left eye. He that Reykjavik’s nightlife badly lets me get a good look at the injury needs. The Vanity and Hope for and says, “There was a gay bashing Wind in the Sail theatre group will last night.” continue to put on performances all summer before touring Iceland The show, held at Reykjavik’s oldest in the fall - it is obviously a cause house and newest gay club, Jón worth contributing to and, more Forseti, was more theatre than drag importantly, at ISK 500 their shows show. Closest, maybe, to a drag are also one of the best options for a vaudeville. The opening number night on the town. (A night “out” if showcased a couple of dancers in you need the pun.) French showgirl garb dancing and

WE ARE ON A MISSION �� MOVIESand THEATRE FROM GOD Regnboginn cinema. LIVE MUSIC THE REYKJAVIK SHORTS AND DOCS FESTIVAL, UPCOMING The third year running, this will go on all day from the 10th to the 13th. 12 new Icelandic shorts as well as a pick EVENTS of international ones, including the Finnish film Screaming Friday June 11th Men about a male choir that terrifies its audience with its Hoffman, Botnleðja performances. Reykjavik City Theatre Saturday June 12th Band Blúsbyltan ROMEO AND JULIET The theatre closes down for summer on the 20th, so there´s Sunday June 13th still a last chance to catch some of its performances. The Indigo, Bob Justman, Viking Giant most notable show is probably the acrobatic Romeo and Juliet, just back from roaring success in London. There are Wednesday June 16th still tickets left for the afternoon performance on Saturday Mistery Index YOU WILL NEVER 12th at 15.00. Call the theatre to see if there are any tickets available for the evening performance. Don Quixote and the

Saturday June 19th 551 5522 new Iceland play Belgian Congo are on the following day at p: Hjálmar DRINK ALONE Smiðjustíg 6. 20.00, and Chicago winds up on the 19th. 19

The Day After Tomorrow is that rare beast, a summer blockbuster that has its heart in the right place. And that despite killing more people (even if offscreen) than any movie since Star Wars, which managed to do in an entire planet. LIBERAL AMERICA STRIKES BACK by Valur Gunnarsson Although originally from Germany, take that approach to the Bush creep in. Drop the debt. Be nice to director Roland Emmerich has long administration… the third world, we might need them made a point of being more Ameri- The adversary here, though, isn´t the someday. Snacks and sweets are not can than the Americans. Here, at bad guys. True, there is a vice presi- very nutritious. And, although it may least, he is a different kind of Ameri- dent (who looks like Dick Cheney be okay to burn books to keep alive, can. Whereas Independence Day and on a diet) that doesn´t seem to care there are other uses for books. They Godzilla´s apparent message was: about global warming, but even he even help you cure diseases. Is all this Increase military spending, otherwise repents before the end rather than something we want our children to we´ll be attacked by space aliens being pickaxed by Dennis Quaid. hear? and large firebreathing dragons, and And the good guys aren’t bullet-and- So even if characterisation is poor The Patriot´s more simple statement one-liner spewing muscle men. In and the plot mostly nonsensical, it´s was: Kill the English; here, we get fact, they seem verging on the pinko a relief to finally be able to enjoy a “stop global warming.” This, then, and the liberal. There are divorcées, major Hollywood blockbuster guilt is perhaps the first environmental- intellectuals and even atheists (who free, without feeling that you´re sup- ist action film since Steven Seagal´s still appreciate the cultural value of porting American militarism. And On Deadly Ground, where he would God) who prevail by their wits rather any film that portrays the weather as beat up evil oil men before giving than by gunning down bad guys. the enemy is bound to strike a chord them lectures on environmental Although the major message of the with people living in Iceland. safety. Now, if only someone would film is the environmental one, others From the Rental Starship Troopers The War on Bugs This sci-fi shoot ´em up, set in a militarist dystopia, now still has the trappings of democracy, but everything´s seems strangely prophetic. Buenos Aires is attacked by centred around the needs of the military, even the right bugs from outer space, leaving untold civilians dead. The to vote. People aren´t drafted into the army, but society outrage is so great that humanity launches an attack on pushes them to serve so that they can be all that they can the bugs homeland with the aim of exterminating them be. all. Meanwhile on the homefront, heretofore innocent All the actors are ridiculously beautiful (and can´t act), bugs are killed on the streets by pedestrians. The inva- so you can´t help thinking director Verhoeven takes glee sion of the bugs’ homeland does not go according to in having some of the main characters brains sucked out plan, but when man discovers the inhuman enemy to be (or perhaps that´s just Grapevine). The battle scenes a lot smarter than they thought, they take prisoners who with the bugs are stunning but the films´ satire seems to are then tortured in order to learn more about them. have been lost on most. A good night in, but for God´s The society that mankind lives in is hardly inspiring. It sake avoid the straight to video sequel.

Screenings start rougly every two hours, at 18, 20 and 22. However, with films getting ever longer starting times may vary. There are usually ads and trailers for roughly 15 minutes from announced MOVIES : LISTINGS : june 11 - june 24 starting time. Almost all films have a short interval in the middle.

Hverfisgata 54 Laugarás Álfabakka 8 SmáralindSmáralind Kringlan 4-6 Phone: 551-9000 Phone: 553-2075 Phone: 587-8900 Phone: 564-0000 Phone: 588-0800 www.regnboginn.is www.laugarasbio.is www.sambio.is www.smarabio.is www.sambio.is

PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: PREMIERS: 11. june Eternal Sunshine of 11. june Win a Date with Tad 11. june Eurotrip 11. june Eternal Sunshine of 11. june Eurotrip the Spotless Mind Hamilton 16. june The Ladykillers the Spotless Mind 16. june The Ladykillers 16. june Mean Girls 18. june The Punisher 16. june Mean Girls 16. june Mean Girls 16. june Mean Girls 16. june The Punisher 16. june The Punisher Still running: Still running: Still running: Still running: Still running: Laws of Attraction Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban Day after Tomorrow Azkaban Day After Tomorrow Butterfly Effect Peter Pan Troy Kill Bill vol.2 Troy Kill Bill vol. 2 Confessions of a Teenage Drama Jersey Girl Laws of Attraction MOVIESand THEATRE Jersey Girl Queen

Look no further for: Comic books Graphic Novels Hagatorg Phone: 530-1919 Manga/Anime www.haskolabio.is Action Figures Sci-Fi/Fantasy paperbacks PREMIERS: Collectible Card Games 11. june Mors Elling (Elling Warhammer 2) Role-Playing Games 16. june The Ladykillers 16. june Mean Girls and more... Still running: NEXUS Harry Potter and the Prisoner Hverfisgata 103 (near bus station Hlemmur) Troy Open mon-sat 12 to 19:30, sun. 13-18 Van Helsing Phones 552 9011 - 5529012 Touching the void 20 �� OPPS! by Marc Mettler “I DIDN’T DO Through its interaction with the audience, much of Þorsteinsson’s work sug- lthough the title of Þorvaldur Þorsteinsson’s latest exhibition gests a discussion about the role of the artist. And it seems this is a question A Þorsteinsson wrestles with often. clearly claims “I Didn’t Do It,” a glance at the artist’s CV quickly IT” AGAIN proves otherwise. “I have a problem with art that is masturbatory, when artists are ‘generous and kind’ with others to ‘allow’ them to be artists for a day,” he said. “I am still From playwriting to installation art, painting to photography, books to searching for a form to trigger the awareness of people’s own value and pos- documentary film, he´s done it, and nearly all of it will be featured June sibilities of being creative, without having to bring them to a museum or act 11th through August 8th at the Reykjavík Art Museum. ‘artistically’.”

“I Didn’t Do It” will display various works created by Þorsteinsson in the But Þorsteinsson hasn’t given up completely forty-three years of his life, ranging from early sketches and texts to newer on using the museum as a tool for his art. “I pieces of sound, video and photo installations. But for Þorsteinsson, Didn’t Do It” includes a piece called Ver- the exhibit isn’t simply a retrospective of one man’s life. kaskipti (or Work Exchange) in which personal valuables are displayed alongside stories “These pieces are a part of me as someone from Akureyri or about the objects in exchange for something someone who grew up in the 60s and 70s,” he said. “It’s not so much in the museum. about me as it is about my generation.” “The piece is not only about ‘what is art’ but Þorsteinsson is perhaps best known in Iceland for his play “And Björk, the social context of the person or her story. of Course…” and the Betterby books for children. But he attributes his Its value is tested there,” he said. “My role desire for using art forms other than writing to living in Iceland. as an artist is simple: to point out things and show what is already there.” “It’s a great advantage to grow up as an artist in Iceland,” he said. “Ice- land is a perfect breeding ground for people who can’t decide what they The words “awareness,” “value,” and “possibility” are terms Þorsteinsson want to do. It is so small you can literally walk into whatever you like and uses often. Perhaps they are words he has picked up through his experience try things out.” as a mentor with Fully Alive Coaching, a program in Los Angeles started by Guðni Gunnarsson that teaches holistic medicine and yoga. While Þorsteinsson modestly asserts that the central theme of “I Didn’t Do It” is “to have fun,” many of his pieces offer insight into more serious themes. “There is a close link between my life as an artist and as someone doing yoga and teaching spiritual things. It’s all about the awareness and responsibility Jesus is Closer to Home is a documentary about people from Amsterdam’s Red-Light Dis- of someone who has the power to create what matters,” he said. “I see it more trict. Icelandic Art compiles TV stills of Icelandic politicians and officials being interviewed in and more as one big art piece, or one whole idea of simply being alive as a whole person.” front of traditional Icelandic paintings. Most Real Death is a video project of people enacting their own deaths. “I Didn’t Do It” runs June 11th through August 8th at the Reykjavík Art Museum located in the Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík. Freaky Fridays by Hitt Húsið �� ARTS andCULTURE In downtown Reykjavík, in what was once Reykjavík Museum of Photography, The a jail and a police station at Pósthússtræti 5, you can now find Hitt Húsið, (The Other City of Reykjavik Library House). This is the youth cultural centre, so NEW REALITIES called because it’s supposed to be a home New Realities, part of the Reykjavik Festival, features away from home, which indeed it is for many. Finnish contemporary photography at its finest. The During the summer months a large number exhibition has been rated as one of the most intriguing on offer in Europe today. of young and creative people work at Hitt Also French photographs of The Cod industry in the Húsið and receive their wages from the City. 1920s. The youngsters are divided into different groups, each with different tasks but sharing a Einar Jónsson Museum common goal of making the city center more PERMANENT SHOW alive. This year´s groups, of which there are This permanent show of the country´s groundbreaking 18 in total, include 5 bands playing their own sculptor whose influence on all visual arts has been con- music but also taking requests and groups siderable. A comprehensive exhibition in a fine building. drawing pictures and cartoons and even writing novels. In addition, acting groups will Gerðuberg culture center perform sketches and scenes from plays and WOMEN OF THE WORLD there is even a group designing clothes. So if A collection of images of 176 women from 176 countries. you are wondering why there are belly-danc- Motherhood, kindness, housekeeping, fertility - the show ers making a scene in the streets, chances seeks to find the essence of womanhood. are Hitt húsið will have had something to do with it. On Friday 11th and again on the Gallery i8 25th between 13:00 and 15:00 all the groups from Hitt Husid will perform by Austurvöl- GABRIELA FRIÐRIKSDÓTTIR lur, Lækjartorg square, Ingólfstorg square and A show which is part of the Ryekjavik arts festival and runs until 26 June. The show includes paintings, videos, Austurstræti street, appearing out of the blue drawings, sculptures and photographs. Gabriela will whenever the weather permits. Anyone situ- represent Iceland at the 2005 Venice Biennale. ated there can expect a little bit of art, a little bit of culture and a lot of general crazyness. Perlan SAGA MUSEUM The permanent exhibition recreates key moments in Icelandic history using tableaux and a whole range of light and sound effects. A visit to the museum offers an The visitor´s KEY to ICELAND opportunity of an unrivalled panorama of Reykjavik from Its saga and scenery Iceland is a country of Perlan. great and unusual Over 400 colour photographs Around Iceland A complete ROAD AND REFERENCE natural beauty. Every turn in the road, every INDEPENDENCE DAY GUIDE change in the weather Including the highlands and all presents a new and 17 JUNE mountain roads fascinating aspect. Iceland will celebrate 60 years of Independence. Go

downtown and see Iceland at its most nostalgic. The as: “Island Atlas” “Island as: Also A Also ceremonies start at 11.00 am. Music, poetry, speeches, Detailed maps of the entire Icelandic road system boy scouts and much flag waving. It always rains, so be

vailable in German in vailable Street maps of towns and villages prepared. Maps of numbered mountain tracks Map of golf courses Gallery of Iceland Classified list of advertisers Index of 3,000 place names CLOSE UP Information on accommodation, petrol stations, etc. An exhibition of dissimilar artworks by various contem- And much, much more porary American artists who are united by their method of expression. Andy Warhol, Bruce Nauman and Geoff Koons all feature in this eclectic show. 21 Orthodontists, Artists and Hairstylists to the Stars by Marcie Hume tively recent political independence, a Mossfellsbær discussing their ideas artist because those are the well-paid tribute to both the nation’s expansion and aspirations for their own futures. jobs (not all artists in Reykjavik are ossfellsbær is a quick drive north from Reykjavík, but it and its cultural stability. We see each teenager close-up as rich. I just thought you should know M Each artist’s work is in some way in- they sit for an initial portrait-like -ed.). Another girl wishes to become feels like the deep countryside, with horses close to the road and green timately connected to Iceland wheth- shot, not speaking, looking into the a master hairstylist to the stars in in all directions. The town tends to escape remark in many tourist er it regards the nation’s unscathed camera. There is an instant intimacy Hollywood. But even as the words guides, but it can now add a new contemporary art gallery to its list natural environment, its people or its with these faces as we see all their leave her mouth she begins to smirk of attractions. politics. The show presents a broad imperfections and insecurities, the and giggle, saying that a life like spectrum of photographs, video and restrained apprehension about what that is really just a dream and she installation pieces. A piece by Hlíf they are meant to be doing for the will probably stay in Mossfellsbær Ásgrímsdóttir uses a combination of camera, and the innate timidity that instead. She smiles openly at herself, all of these. Large sheets of plastic is generally paired inextricably with and we might be smirking alongside are draped across the floor, on top of the teenage years. her, not necessarily at her teenage which sits a monitor with a film of One face is that of a classically pretty buoyancy, but at the recognition of the artist removing the plastic from a girl with long blonde hair, a lovely how silly our early dreams can be, river in nearby Álafoss. Behind this face, and a mouth full of braces. how common and implausible such display are several photographs in She smiles hugely, looking mostly wishes are, and still how blissful. which similar pieces of plastic have into the lens, but her smile fades Each has their own scheme about drifted into natural settings and have intermittently as she briefly looks to career and travel and purpose, but become entangled within pristine the artist’s face behind the camera in the one thing that all eleven reveal settings. The photographs fluently order to gauge what she should do is an ultimate intention to return to attest to the supremacy of nature, its next. And in this brief close-up look Mossfellsbær or a similar location in capacity to integrate and overcome. we feel that sharp contrast of innate Iceland. And this is the piece’s deep- Small branches have wrapped beauty living side by side with hu- est connection to the theme of the around the debris, incorporating the man awkwardness and uncertainty. exhibition. The video is a portrait of The gallery is situated within a by Ólöf Oddgeirsdóttir. In rooms otherwise offending plastic into their Each discusses various aspirations: Iceland today, the newest genera- cluster of old structures which, in where the factory workers once ate form. It is a testament to the persis- the girl with braces wants to go to tion who are fully prepared to take the diffused evening light, add an their grub, the artist has created a tence of nature against the change America to learn to be an ortho- on the entire world while retaining aesthetic contribution of their own. hospitable show space and has gath- instigated by human forces. dontist. Another would like to be a everything of their country. This An abandoned wool factory looms ered many of her female colleagues One of the most gripping and doctor, to go to Norway for a couple is the great storehouse of potential authoritatively near a building which to contribute to this initial exhibition simultaneously entertaining pieces is of years and then return home. One and possibility, the younger years houses an old swimming pool, a which honors the 60th anniversary of one entitled “Portrait”, created by the says that he would definitely like that show, through all the overt recording studio utilized by Sígur Iceland’s independence on 17 June. exhibition’s organizer. It is shown on to eventually end up still close to inelegance, their true belief in their Rós and, in an attached structure, It’s an evocative setting for this col- a television which sits in a small cor- Reykjavík because, well, everything lives as Icelanders. This is Iceland 60 the newly renovated Þrúðvangur gal- lection of work which celebrates the ner between two rooms of the gallery is in Reykjavík, and he will probably years later. lery and workspace recently opened evolution of Iceland since its rela- and presents various teenagers from consider being a psychologist or an ARTS andCULTURE LISTINGS : june 11 - june 24 Want to be seen in the listings? Send us a mail Reykjavík Museum of Photography Gallery Fold Art Studio Gallery Hallgrímskirkja Church: Lunch Time Concert to [email protected] and your event will be Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat&Sun 13:00- Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat 11:00-17:00 Sun Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 announced in the next issue, and the best thing 17:00. 14:00-17:00 Ceramic by Svetlana Matusa and oilpaintings by is that being in the listings is free! A collection of Finnish contemporary photo- One of the largest Galleries in Iceland, works by Helgi Hálfdánarson FRIDAY graphs. many know artists. JUNE 18 ONGOING Museum of Medical History Handverk og Hönnun FRIDAY Nordic House: A concert for playschoolchildren. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum Sun,Tue,Thu,Sat 13:00-17:00 Mon-Fri 09.00-16:00 Free admission! 10:00-17:00 every day Artefacts, tools, instruments and pictures on the Craft and design. Craftspeople transfer – in mod- JUNE 11 Private exhibition of Thorvaldur Thorsteinsson subject. ern and dynamic ways – nature’s shapes, colours Nordic House: Concert, Reykjavík 5 and Jazz- and the summer exhibition at the Reykjavik Art and materials to their work. band SATURDAY Museum-Hafnarhus. Numismatic Collection of the Central Bank Culture House: A summer exhibition entitled JUNE 19 Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Closed 12:00-13:00. Gallery Hnoss The Poetic Edda will be opened. The summer ex- Hallgrímskirkja Church: Lunch Time Concert Gallery of the Icelandic printmakers as- Icelandic coins and banknotes. Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00 Sat 11:00-16:00 hibition will continue through August. sociation Auður Eysteinsdóttir works with aquarelle, pas- - Christopher Herrick Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 Icelandic Institute of Natural History tels and stained glass. Hildur Margrétardóttir Nordic House: Summer Solstice Concert Festival of the sea, international photoexhibition Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00 works with oil on canvas and aquarelle. Admission: Icel. kr. 1.200 Geological, botanical and zoological exhibits, dis- SATURDAY Klink og bank artist workplace playing the nature of Iceland. Gallery i8 JUNE 12 workplace for artist, open when something spea- Thu&Fri 11:00-18:00 Klink og bank artist workplace: Saleshow in SUNDAY cial is going on. Nordic House Katharsis. In her work Gabriela Friðriksdóttir pres- Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00, Sat&Sun 12:00-17:00 the Greenhall beginns JUNE 20 ents the manifold faces of melancholy in many of Hafnarborg Art Gallery: New Exhibition opens. SÍM-house Paintings by Sigurður Þórir and Exhibition On the her sculptures and drawings. Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum: Focus on Icelan- Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00 way from Helsinki to Vilníus Ends June 13 dic herbs and their use for medicinal purposes, in Exhibition by Guðbjörg Hákonardóttir and Guðný Gallery Meistari Jakob food and as dyes. Hafsteinsdóttir Saga Museum Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 SUNDAY Nordic House: Familyconcert., Free admission! 10:00-16:00 every day. The gallery is run by eleven artists who work in JUNE 13 Culture House The Saga museum intimately recreates key mo- Hallgrímskirkja Church: Evening Concerts Sun- 11:00-17:00 every day ceramics, textiles, printmaking and paintings and Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum: Focus on Icelan- days - Christopher Herrick ments in Icelandic history and gives a compelling you will always find one of them at the gallery. dic wool sweaters. Church service 2 pm. A summer exhibition entitled The Poetic Edda. view into how Icelanders have lived and thought The exhibition is intended to provide visitors for more than a millenium through the use of life Gallery Ófeigur MONDAY with some insights into these ancient poems size likenesses Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00 MONDAY that have as their subject matter the mythol- Exhibitions by Sunna Sigurðardóttir. Ends June 16 JUNE 21 ogy, ethics and Germanic heroes revered by the Culture House JUNE 14 Kling og Bang Gallery: Exhibition opens, Norse peoples during the Viking age. 11:00-17:00 every day Gallery Sævar Karl Hafnarborg Art Gallery: Concert by Antonía worldfamous american artists Paul McCarthy and Many of Iceland’s national treasures are on dis- Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 Hevesi playing the piano and Davíð Ólafsson play- Jason Rhoades. Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum play in the Culture House’s featured exhibition Ari Svavarsson installation inside the cloathes ing bass. 10:00-16:00 every day Medieval Manuscripts – Eddas and Sagas. The ex- store. The Man and Material. A retrospective exhibition hibition Home Rule 1904 is held on the centenary of works by Asmundur Sveinsson. of Home Rule in Iceland 2004. Gallery Tukt TUESDAY Mon-Thu 13:00-18:00, Fri 13:00 - 17:00 WEDNESDAY JUNE 22 Telecommunications Museum Gerðarsafn, Kóparvogur Art Gallery Various artists. JUNE 16 Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum: Midnight Sun Tue,Thu&Sun 11:00-17:00 Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00. Gallery Hulduhólar Hafnarborg Art Gallery: Concert by Antonía guided walk in Elliðaárdalur valley. Departure at Pictures and items related to the history of tele- Private Collection - Icelandic Painting in Den- Hevesi plays the piano while Auður Gunnarsdót- 10 pm from museum entrance. communications. Sat 11:00-14:00 mark. Also Opus, Paintings on Plexiglas by Bjarni tir sings. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum: Hjör- Sigurbjörnsson. Ends June 20 Ceramic artwork from Steinunn Marteinsdóttir. Reykjavík Zoo and Family Park leifur Valsson, violin, Tatu Kantomaa, accordeon 10:00-18:00 every day Gerðuberg Cultural Center Safn THURSDAY and Kristinn H. Árnason, guitar. Music by the Icelandic horse and sheep, along with local va- Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Wed-Fri 14:00-18:00. Sat&Sun 14:00-17:00 Czech composer Václav Trojan including the rieties other animals in the zoo. Right beside it Women of the world - art exhibition. Works of 176 The works were the artists’ most current works JUNE 17 suite composed for Jirí Trnka’s puppet film: The is the Park, which has various activities for the women from 176 countries. at the time of the museums purchase. The art- All around Iceland: June 17th is the National Emperor’s Nightingale. whole family. ists in Safn include: Donald Judd, On Kawara, Day of Iceland when the country declared full Reykjavík City Library Karin Sander, Lawrence Weiner, Dan Flavin, and independence from Denmark in 1944. Reykjavík Botanical Garden Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 Dieter Roth. Klink og bank artist workplace: Many things THURSDAY 10:00-22:00 every day Books and periodicals in Icelandic as well as Eng- going on, open market, music, art and more Teddi - Workshop JUNE 24 All kinds of plants and flowers on display. lish, Scandinavian and other languages. Also has Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum: Iceland’s National Hallgrímskirkja Church a childrens and a comic book section. 10:00-18:00 every day Day. National costumes. Folk dancing 4 pm. Exhi- Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum Open workshop of tree sculptures of Teddi Lunch Time Concert - Announced later 10:00-17:00 every day bition of traditional jewellery. Roni Horn: Her, her, her and her: Photographs taken in the Reykjavik Swimming Hall. Francesco Clemente: New Works. Exhibition of new works by the famous Italian artist. Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum 10:00-17:00 every day Works from the Kjarval Collection. Kjarval’s career as a painter spans the years 1901 to 1968. An overview of Kjarval’s work which shows how he developed as an artist. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Works of Einar Jónsson, Iceland´s first sculptor. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum 10:00-17:00 every day I Didn’t Do It. Private exhibition of Thorvaldur Thorsteinsson - the museum’s summer exhibition. Hafnarhúsið, Reykjavík Art Museum 10:00-17:00 every day Part of the Erró Collection on show. National Gallery of Iceland 11:00-17:00 every day Close-up. American Contemporary Art. Includes the Jacko porcelain statue, the most expensive piece of art ever to come to Iceland. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Works by the artist. 22 �� by Valur Gunnarsson Dylan´s janitor discovers genius �� In late 1965, Bob Dylan was on a roll. He had spent years playing the coffee shops of Greenwich Village and had become a star on affair as well, immortalised in the Cohen song Chelsea Hotel No. 2. the folk scene, putting the message back into music for the first time Joplin´s affair with Kristofferson since Woody Guthrie. That year he had already released the albums was also fruitful; she recorded his Bringing it Back Home and Highway 61 Revisited, plugged his song Me and Bobby McGee and guitar in, invented folk rock, been booed by his audience and become had a number one hit with it, albeit an influence on everyone. posthumously. Kristofferson´s first album, Songs So when he entered the studio songwriter. There he got a job in of Kristofferson, came out in 1970. again at the end of the year, he had a studio, emptying ashtrays and He´s since gone on to write many a lot to live up to. Dylan rose to the vacuuming floors at night, hoping more songs, but it is his first album challenge and the subsequent album, to find someone to release his songs. that remains his definitive state- Blonde on Blonde, is universally When Dylan was up all night writing ment. Even if you´ve never heard hailed as one of the best in rock songs on very expensive studio time, of Kristofferson before, you´ve history. The sessions stretched to the janitor didn´t dare approach him. probably heard most of the songs six months as compared to Highway Dylan was then the hottest thing in here somewhere. Kristofferson was 61´s six days. But in the process, ge- pop and even had a police escort to one of the first people to realise the nius was unleashed. In fact, so much keep fans away. It wasn´t until 1969, similarity between the traditional of it seemed to be channelled into when Johnny Cash recorded the country/western outlaw hero and the studio that for a while, everyone Kristofferson song Sunday Morning the new hippie counterculture hero, seemed to have become infused. Coming Down that the ball started and he combines these elements on His band (The Band), previously an rolling. Legend has it that Kristoffer- the album. The first song, Blame it above average Canadian bar band, son landed on his lawn in a helicop- on the Stones takes the side of the went on to record their own great ter with a bottle in one hand and a longhairs, and he goes even further albums in the following years, Music tape in the other. in The Law is for Protection of the From Big Pink and The Band. The The following year, Bobby Neuwirth People, equating the crucifixion of explosion of genius that took place at from Janis Joplins´ band attended a Christ with hippie bashing in the CBS studios was so great that even Kris concert and was impressed. He American South. KRIS the janitor made a masterpiece. told Janis about him and introduced Dylan would never again make The janitors´ name was Kris Krist- the two, who proceeded to have masterpieces as easily as he did with offerson. He had been a Rhodes an affair. Another master song- Blonde on Blonde. But he´s still scholar at Oxford before becoming writer, Leonard Cohen, said once playing, on his socalled his Never- KRISTOFFERSON a helicopter pilot in the army. He that he met Janis on an elevator ending Tour. Kristofferson is still turned down a job teaching English and she asked him whether he was playing too. He´ll be here, in Lau- literature at West Point in order Kris Kristofferson. He told her he gardalshöllin on the 14th of June. I to move to Nashville to become a was, and the two of them had an wonder whether he needs a janitor.

12 Tónar: Rock star and classical �� MUSICandNIGHTLIFE Grand Rokk, June 11th, 22:00 musician run record store BOTNLEÐJA Band Botnleðja has been around for more then 10 years by Jón Trausti Sigurðarson now. They won the Icelandic battle of the bands back in ‘95, have since then released 5 albums, toured with Sparta The name means 12 tones and when and made friends/toured with Blur. Apart from playing in Botnleðja, the members have solo projects, too - the vocal- it comes to variety of music, it’s ist/guitarist Heiðar makes live appearances armed with only a music store that indeed fills the an acoustic guitar, and drummer Halli released a children’s whole octave. With a friendly staff album not too long ago. Botnleðja has always been a great of four, including a rock star and a live band. classical musician, two floors full of Laugardalshöll, June 23, 19:00 CDs, a sofa and free coffee, you’re in good hands when it comes to finding DEEP PURPLE “Smoke on the water” anyone? what you want. The classical stuff is Deep Purple are back...err..in Iceland playing two gigs this on the ground floor but in the cellar time. They are probably fulfilling their gig duty since their you’ll find new and old Icelandic last time in Iceland when they only played half a gig due to releases - it’s all there. electricity problems. But that was back in 1970 or something. Legend has it that they’re just as good a live band 12 Tónar are also active as whole- as they were back in the old days, and though Blackmore salers for other music stores and has been replaced by Steve Morse, Ian Gillian is still there, are “getting bigger and busier as a great “Nordisk Salon Musik” album with the president in his office, and screaming his lungs out. Tickets are still available in Hard Rock Café, Kringlan shopping mall. Call 568-9888 for record label” says Jói, who is one of which was a best seller in Iceland one track is simply a thanks speech more info. the owners. The 12 Tónar record during christmas of ’99. “It was such to the band from the president just label is expanding fast; some of their a success that we decided to open after that particular gig. It’s going to Bar 11, June 17, 21:00 featured artists include Mugison a store of our own and for the past sell very fast.” NORTÓN from Ísafjörður (record of the year three years we’ve been situated by Nortón are an Electric Funk happy happy joy joy 3 piece in Japan), Eyvör Pálsdóttir from the Skólavörðustígur.” Grapevine orders a copy of the new band who will, along with a pint of beer, help you forget all Faroe Islands and Slowblow from Trabant album, bids farwell and your worries and concentrate on dancing! No Entrance fee. Iceland. What was 12 Tónar´s next release? walks smiling down Skólavörðustígur Jómfrúin, June 12, 16:00 “Trabant live at Bessastaðir. It’s out to go back to work, hoping it won’t GUITAR ISLANCIO So how did it all come about? “12 soon, in only 500 copies and features be broke by the time that album When two of Iceland’s greatest guitarists Björn Thoroddsen Tónar were founded in my cellar six Icelandic band Trabant playing live comes out. and Gunnar Þórðarson join hands with bassplayer Jón years ago. At first we only sold one in a party held by the President of Rafnsson, it’s bound to work. Gunnar Þórðarson is former album, just in wholesale. It was the Iceland. On the cover are the band member of bands Hljómar (Thor’s Hammers) and Trúbrot whose record Lifun (Living) was recently elected as one one of the best records ever made in Iceland. This time Guitar Islancio are playing Scandinavian traditional tunes along with, well hopefully, Icelandic folk songs. Enjoy, it’s free. Sjónvarpshúsið (Laugavegur 172), 17 June, 17:00 MASTERS OF THE UNIVERSE Well now! It’s time to go nuts, stagedive and break sweat at the largest Hardcore festival ever held in Iceland, from the US come bands Shai Hulud, Give up the Ghost and 27. From Reykjavík’s dark back yards, bands like I Adapt, Changer, Dys, Drep, Fighting Shit and Afsprengi Satans will play. Admission 2000ISK Kaffi Lizt, 12 June, 23:00 RAGNHEIÐUR GRÖNDAL QUARTET Jazz vocalist Ragnheiður has been doing great things with her three piece band; Sigurður Þór Rögnvaldsson playing guitar, Pétur Sigurðsson playing bass and Kristinn Snær Agnarsson playing drums. Jazz with soul. Admission 500ISK 23 When superstars go from drugs to comfort-food, the next step is Iceland by Aðalsteinn Jörundsson

All hell is breaking loose in the imports division of the Icelandic music scene. World famous pop and rock bands come surging onto our shores and we, the rock-thirsty Icelanders, stand in awe and appre- ciation while the likes of Violent Femmes, Deep Purple, Kraftwerk and most recently Pixies (May 25th)and Korn (May 31st) come to give us the performances we’ve heard about for ages but never seen with our own eyes. I idolised these bands as a teenager Patton’s (from Faith No More) pet and in my early twenties. Back then project, Phantomace, came with I was the only one in my circle of Korn and played, what I would like friends who liked the Pixies and to call, mind-fuck n’ roll. It was I’ve always been grateful to Korn a mix of death-metal, hard-core sound on the concerts I have nothing for putting metal-esque music back and noise music which was fun to to complain about. It’s just when I into the mainstream. I never thought experience. Still, somehow I had the pay to see a show like that, I want that those bands would consider the feeling that it would have been more to experience something more than possibility of coming here but they interesting to see them in a smaller expect them to never address the much. what I can get from listening to their did - finally. venue. audience nor did I expect them to Don’t get me wrong. I loved seeing albums. It’s just not enough to see play their songs in the exact same those bands. And maybe I shouldn’t the musicians play the music you’ve Both the Pixies and Korn had really The headlining performances were versions as on their albums. Korns´ be bitching about their stage already heard. I want to see them put obscure experimental-noise bands as not as entertaining. Both the Pixies performances weren’t as dead as performances while I should be on some kind of a show to go with a warm up number. The Icelandic and Korn made it too obvious that Pixies but the lead singer, Jonathan talking about their music, which was, the music. group Ghost Digital opening the they were on the job. It was as if Davis, had the annoying habit of of course, brilliant. Neither of the The summer isn’t over yet. More Pixies show were fantastic, with they had just clocked in to play their disappearing from the stage in bands made any obvious mistakes bands are coming; some old, some brilliant sound engineering from songs and they wanted it over and between songs. I know he has to playing their instruments (so you new. Some bad, some good. We, the the noise artist Curver and Einar done with fast. I had heard that breath in oxygen during a show but didn´t get your money back? -ed.) inhabitants of Iceland, can only hope Örns´ (former Sugarcubes member) the Pixies always used to be quite is it that urgent to do it after every and both played all my favourite that the rest haven’t yet passed their cataclysmic shout outs. Mike immobile on stage but I didn’t single song? He isn’t moving that songs. Regarding their music and the prime.

MUSICandNIGHTLIFE LISTINGS : june 11 - june 24

Music and nightlife events usually start around Nelly´s: Troubadour Einar Kapital: Alot of drinking going on, good DJ’s see De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at De Boomkikker: Troubadour Óskar Einarsson, cupon in Grapevine for details Café 22: DJ Rafnar 01.00 on weekdays and much, much later on SUNDAY and then DJ Heavy Metal Grand Rokk: Band Misery Index plays Kaffibarinn: DJ Raggi weekends. For those just wanting to party, the JUNE 20 Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Halli & Kalli Dillon: DJ Andrea Jóns Café Sólon: DJ Svali pubs and clubs don´t get crowded until after Bar 11: Hung over again? 21:00 Movie Night: DJ Heiðar Austmann DJ Andri midnight on weekends, although Thursday is a Café Victor: Felix: Sirkus: DJ Þormar Scanners / War of the Worlds Glaumbar: DJ Þór Bæring Kaffibarinn: DJ Árni Sveins semi-ofﬁcial night out. Jón Forseti: DJ’s and Fun Dubliners: Troubadour Ingvar Valgeirs Amsterdam: Happy coverband Buff Nasa: DJ John Digweed from the UK. Admission Thorvaldsen bar: DJ’s Daddi Diskó & Hlynur Gaukur á Stöng: Pop band “Menn í Svörtum 2900ISK De Palace: DJ’s Devious & Extreme Fötum” with frontman Jónsi, who claims he’s not Sirkus: DJ KGB Muhitos: Launch feeling with a dancefloor FRIDAY gay, play covers. MONDAY JUNE 11 Hverfisbar: DJ Kiddi Bigfoot Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Acoustic play covers Café Sólon: DJ Svali Celtic Cross: A troubadour playing upstairs and JUNE 21 Prikið: 20:00 Búðarbandið play fun stuff Nelly´s: Party Party Party a live band downstairs Dubliners: Troubadour Stebbi Stef 23:00 DJ KGB SUNDAY Pravda Barinn: Scrabble & Trivial Pursuit night Amsterdam: DJ 18 Dubliners: 22:00 Troubadour Spasky Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Acoustic play covers 01:00 Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva JUNE 13 Café Victor: DJ Tutti Frutti Gaukur á Stöng: Band Írafár (Rush) plays TUESDAY Grand Rokk: 23:00 Bands Botnleðja and Hoff- Bar 11: 21:00 Hung over? Movie Night: Dark Glaumbar: DJ Viking covers man, see picks for details Crystal / Nightbreed JUNE 22 Gaukur á Stöng: Bands Dikta and Tristian play A troubadour playing upstairs and Grand Rokk: Bands; Indigó, Bob Justman, Viking Prikið: Guest DJ’s Celtic Cross: their own songs a live band downstairs Giant SATURDAY Dubliners: Troubadour Stebbi Stef Amsterdam: Coverband Oxford Nasa: Band Starsailor (sold out) after they finish Dubliners: Troubadour Andy Garcia JUNE 19 DJ Heiðar Austmann Coverband Buff play Café Victor: Bar 11: 22:00 Band Dikta Dillon: DJ Andrea Jóns Glaumbar: DJ Þór Bæring 01:00 DJ Lupin WEDNESDAY Felix: DJ Andri MONDAY Dubliners: 22:00 Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva 01:00 Nasitam JUNE 23 Hverfisbar: DJ Benni JUNE 14 Kaffibarinn: DJ Kári THURSDAY Dillon: DJ Andrea Jóns Bar 11: DJ Doddi from band Trabant Dubliners: Troubadour Stebbi Stef Bar 11: Punk Rock band Innvortis, watch out Sirkus: DJ Kári JUNE 17 Sirkus: DJ Andri for that bass player! Loads of fun Hverfisbar: 21:00 Acoustic duet called Bítlarnir Café 22: DJ Matti from radiostation X-id Hverfisbar: DJ Benni Pravda Barinn: Scrabble & Trivial Pursuit night (Beatles) plays covers Vegamót: DJ Sóley (buttercup) De Boomkikker: DJ Heavy Metal Dubliners: Troubadours Bjarni and Ingi TUESDAY Bar 11: Band Norton play funk, see Picks for Kaffibarinn: DJ Tommi White Prikið: DJ Jöri JUNE 15 details Thorvaldsen bar: DJ’s Daddi Diskó & Hlynur Felix: DJ Kiddi Bigfoot Dubliners: Troubadour Stebbi Stef Hressó: Beloved Icelandic pop star Eyfi plays De Palace: DJ’s Devious & Extreme Café Sólon: DJ Svali De Palace: 21:00 US based, female fronted, various pop tunes, and later on Band Búðarbandið THURSDAY Jón Forseti: DJ’s Fun Jón Forseti: DJ’s and Fun chilled rock band, 27 will come by on Iceland as play covers Thorvaldsen bar: DJ’s Daddi Diskó & Hlynur JUNE 24 Muhitos: Launch feeling with a dancefloor part of their european tour. They play one show Prikið: DJ Andri Hverfisbar: 21:00 Acoustic duet called Bítlarnir DJ’s Devious & Extreme Miðbar: Pianist Magni plays with Icelandic indie experimental bands Kimono, Kaffibarinn: DJ Jón Atli De Palace: (Beatles) plays covers Kaffibarinn: DJ’s Gullfoss & Geysir Café Sólon: Sólon Summer party, DJ Þröstur Future-Future and Lights on the Highway. Admin Sirkus: Live bands in the back yard Bar 11: Bands Viking Giant, Bob and Justman, DJ’s Palli & Biggi from band Maus 3000 is 500 ISK Dubliners: Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva Café 22: no admission Nelly´s: Stand up comedians compete Grand Rokk: Iceland’s only reggae band Hjálmar Klink og bank artist workplace: Concert, Kapital: State of Mind; DJ’s Arnar & Frímann or Helmets play Hýsill Kitchen Motors De Boomkikker: Troubadour Óskar Einarsson, WEDNESDAY FRIDAY Muhitos: Launch feeling with a dancefloor Café Sólon: DJ Andrés play a Green room ses- and then DJ Heavy Metal Nasa: Massive MTV Party, look for posters in the sion) Troubadours Halli & Kalli JUNE 16 JUNE 18 streets of Reykjavík for more info Ari í Ögri: 20:00 Band Búðarbandið play all sorts of Kaffibarinn: DJ Raggi Prikið: Prikið: 20:00Band Búðarbandið play along Kapital: The great DJ Margeir Gaukur á Stöng: A band from Húsavík called stuff, 23:00 DJ Jói Prikið: DJ Sóley aka. Buttercup Dubliners: 22:00 Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva The Hefners play covers Ari í Ögri: Troubadours Acoustic play covers Kapital: Trance.is night Café Victor: DJ Heiðar Austmann Café 22: 20:00 DEAD opening party, artist Jón 01:00 Nasitam Amsterdam: DJ 19 Sæmundur reopens his Dead label store at a new Dubliners: Troubadours Bjarni and Ingi Amsterdam: DJ Steini Nasa: Band Icelandic Flag plays mostly old Ice- Café Victor: DJ Tutti Frutti location, beer, booze and BBQ landic pop hits Glaumbar: Ari & Gunni unplugged Glaumbar: DJ Þór Bæring Glaumbar: DJ Viking Bar 11: 21:00 Poetry 11, poems and short Dillon: DJ Andrea Jóns Pravda Barinn: DJ’s Tommi & Einar play a mix Gaukur á Stöng: Band “Menn í Svörtum Fötum” stories, 00:00 Grapevine’s farvorites DJ’s Palli & Hverfisbar: DJ Andri of R’nB & 80’s hits Biggi from band Maus plays cover. Front man Jónsi contributed for Ice- Bar 11: DJ DCR (Daniel) & friend land in last Eurovision contest 22:00 Troubadour Homer Dubliners: Felix: DJ Doktorinn SATURDAY 01:00 Troubadour Mundi JUNE 12 Jómfrúin: 16:00 Guitar Islanico play, see picks for details. Dubliners: 22:00 Troubadour Spasky 01:00 Troubadour Bjarni Tryggva. Grand Rokk: 23:00 Bands Babtist and Norton Kaffi List: 23:00 Ragnheiður Gröndal with band, see picks for details Celtic Cross: A troubadour playing upstairs and a live band downstairs Nasa: Band Skítamórall from Selfoss plays By the Reykjavík harbour covers Dillon: DJ Andrea Jóns Suðurbugt Reykjavík harbour Hverfisbar: DJ Andri Café 22: DJ Andri from radiostation X-id Tel: 551 5101 Sirkus: DJ Árni Sveins Felix: DJ Doktorinn Prikið: DJ Gísli Galdur pulls tricks on listeners Kaffibarinn: DJ Kári Bar 11: DJ Lazer (Jón Atli) Vegamót: DJ Rampage/Dóri Café Sólon: DJ Þröstur 3000 Kapital: DJ’s Alfons X & Hjalti Thorvaldsen bar: DJ’s Daddi Diskó & Hlynur De Palace: DJ’s Devious & Extreme Jón Forseti: DJ’s Fun Miðbar: Guitarist/pianist Sigurjóns plays covers and singalongs Muhitos: Launch feeling with a dancefloor Pravda Barinn: Private DJ Party 24 THE 2ND WORST THING YOU CAN SAY TO A GUY ON A 2ND DATE by Beerman she put her tongue in my mouth. the same mistake twice? Or is that But I’ve already told you that. Where just being careless? were we...ah? Just so you don’t get I had another hit of equalizer and the wrong idea. I am not without she lent over toward me. She whis- morals. I do think it wrong to sleep pered in my ear, softly. But what she with women more drunk than you said wasn’t what I wanted to hear. are. So usually I try to catch up. But The very worst thing a woman can I was running out of time. say to a man on a second date is: It wasn’t the first time we met. We’d “I’m going to have your baby.” A met before, under similar circum- child is 18 to life. There’s no “I’m stances. Done the deed. We were sorry babe, it won’t happen again.” equals then. Alcohol is the great Once the words are spoken, it’s too equalizer. The beautiful and the late for regrets, too late for see- hideous, the old and the young, the you-laters. All you can do is harden ignorant and the wise, at the end of yourself to a decade of hangovers in the night, no one can hold a conver- movie theatres watching afternoon sation any better than they can hold cartoons with a kid that’ll grow up to their drink. be just like you. Which was why I liked bars. That But that wasn’t what she said. What great socialist Jesus must have been she said was the second worst thing drunk when he said the last shall be a woman can say on a second date. first, the first shall be last. Its guys “I think I have Chlamydia,” she said. illustration by Þorsteinn Davíðsson like me that always fall down last. That was a downer on the general ting drunk. That’s the one thing you This is where we get our revenge. mood of where the night was going. She tasted like whiskey, and I hadn’t tasted whiskey in a long can always count on with alcohol. But I digress. So far, everything was I no longer felt like holding tight time. It’s not that I don’t like the taste, you see. It’s the morning And me, I go for the sound invest- going according to plan. The plan’s and drowning in her sinking eyes. always the same, but women rarely I made my excuses the way you do, after. And when you have your first sip and you’re already smelling ment. But this one bought her own drinks. play according to rules, much less but it wasn’t even morning yet. I the morning after, it’s time to find new ways to erase your mind. As I told you, she was my kinda gal. plans. Even if most plans include had other plans for the morning. I This wasn’t just my imagination To be frank with you, most girls are All I had to do was have a beer and them. had waiting rooms and doctors and running wild. She really did taste my kinda gals. But I’m not most gals wait for her to do all the work, and And I had plans for Miss Bourbon. piles of outdated magazines with like whiskey. It was her New Year’s kinda guy. I don’t dance. I don’t buy then I’d reap the reward. She was And Miss Bourbon was playing pictures of people you’d like to sleep resolution. To acquire the taste. And drinks. I’m not into risk investment. already halfway there when we met. along. The fiddler plays the tune and with, if only you weren’t going to see she was doing just fine. She started Buy a girl a drink, the chances of By the time she finished her drink, she was tapping her foot in time. the doctor. That’s what I had in the out on bourbon, but I knew she getting her to sleep with you are still she was moving over my way. Maybe It wasn’t as if I was doing anything morning. That, and a hangover. So would soon graduate to scotch. She pretty slim. Drink enough of them it was the whiskey. I didn’t mind. wrong, I mean, she had already much for the cartoons. was my kinda gal. yourself, and you can be sure of get- And I didn’t mind the taste when acquiesced once. Do you ever make Paddy´s Top Five Burger Joints by Padraig Mara

Hamburgers are by now a staple of the local diet, and it shows. But which ones are the best? We asked an expert from the United States, Dr. Padraig Mara, to do some research, to which he replied: “Fuck it, I´ll just ask some folks and go eat some burgers.” Hard Rock Cafe are covered with hipster Americana; Kringlan Mall a promotional poster for the first Originally I had intended on skip- Blues Brothers movie, a portrait of ping the larger chains like Hard Johnny Cash looking all speed-sick Rock. However, during my thor- and beautifully ugly and a picture of ough and highly scientific poll of the cast of the Sopranos blocked to hamburger scholars, the place came put you in mind of DaVinci´s Last highly rated over and over. I went Supper, though without the mighty and asked the waitress what her J.C. But out the windows, you can favorite burger was. She brought a watch as the boat Hrefna Rós gets a magificent 200 gram slab of beef new coat of paint before launching patty, smothered (but not too smoth- back into the bay. ered) in hickory smoked BBQ sauce, The burgers are excellent. I had a dressed in melted cheese, red onion, simple single patty with lettuce, lettuce and tomato. Always listen to tomato, mayonnaise and ketchup your waitress. with melted ´yellow cheese´. I was so happy to discover my beloved Hamborgarabúllan American cheese on the burger, I Tryggvagata 4-6 was nearly moved to tears. I highly Hamborgarbúllan is an interest- recommend this place. Great burgers in an interesting spot, cooked right ing place; it´s shape can best be Grillhúsið their already excellent menu, but I in front of you. described as...weird. Inside, the walls Tryggvagata 20 was assured they would retain the old At Grillhúsið I again relied on the favorites like this burger. opinion of one of the servers. And again it paid off. I was presented Vítabar with a juicy burger, cooked perfectly Bergþórugata 21 medium rare (exactly as I asked and I left Vitabar for last because it´s the it´s easier said than done) topped closest to my heart. It´s also the clos- with melted cheese, bacon and a est to my house. I ordered the burger ´special sauce´. The burger was so that has made them famous through- good, when I got home I actually out the city. A full 200 grams of wrote: A beautiful example of hamburger with all the fixings, covered burger artistry. in a blue cheese and onion dressing, all this going on between the best Kaffi Brennslan hamburger bread I have encountered Pósthússtræti 9 on either side of the Atlantic. I can Here I was honored with a Dijon- only describe it as fucking rocking. I glazed grilled burger, piled high with highly recommend you take a walk lettuce, tomato, red onion, cheese, to this place on a Sunday afternoon and an excellent mustard mayonnaise and order this meal accompanied by sauce. This was a true gourmet bit two or three pints. If this doesn´t of work, not too be missed. Kaffi cure your hangover, I recommend a Brennslan will soon be changing pistol and some time alone. I Didn'tThorvaldur Do Thorsteinsson It June 11 - August 8 Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17 An exhibition by one of Icelands's most celebrated contemporary artist and writer

Open daily 10-17, free on Monday www.artmuseum.is Café and Museum boutique [email protected] 26 HISTORY WHOSE INDEPENDENCE? by Valur Gunnarsson

Icelandic history can be briefly summed up as follows: Iceland was populated by a race of noble heroes, lost its independence, misery followed for all, then in the 20th century it reclaimed its independence and became the happiest nation on earth.

This will be the version we´ll be is detached from the whole of it, and hearing on the 17th of June, when hurled outward toward new soil, it Iceland celebrates its 60th anni- loses the stimulus toward change that versary as a republic. This, by and the whole provides. It lapses into a large, is also the version taught in kind of immobility.” Icelandic schools. In the struggle for independence from Denmark (which To put it another way, and as stipu- actually took the form of lawyers lated in Richard F. Tomasson´s book from both sides haggling with each Iceland: The First New Society, other about age-old agreements), the settler communities are inherently writing of Icelandic history became conservative. The puritans did not a weapon in the struggle. Of course, embark on the Mayflower from everything that ever went wrong had England to America in order to build The Republic celebrates 60 years to be the fault of the Norwegians a new society. They went in order and the Danes. Icelandic history is to preserve a way of life that they long overdue for an overhaul. Some no longer found themselves able to historians now claim that the quest continue in their old home. By the for independence was actually a same token, Ingólfur Arnarsson and reaction by a conservative farmer´s the first settlers here did not come society against new liberal values to Iceland to form a new society, but coming in from Denmark. But these to get away from a new order in the voices, as yet, receive little attention. old one, in this case being imposed Independence, we are told, is the by the unification of Norway. For reason for Iceland´s prosperity. We almost 400 years they managed to even have a party named after it, preserve their clan-based society and people obligingly vote for it here, until this led to interminable every four years. It is interesting to blood feuds and the Norwegian king note that whereas in Scandinavia, needed to be called upon to impose the parties that attract the larg- peace. This might go someway est following of people tend to be towards explaining the conservative social democrats, here the largest streak in most settler communities to mass party is the conservative one. this day. While it is true that what Actually, it was formed under the happened a thousand years ago may name The Conservative Party in not have much direct impact upon 1924, but underwent a name change our actions today, the story of our five years later and has since been foundations have entered our col- called the Independence Party. lective consciousness, and how we A few weeks before the Republic define who we are. celebrates its 60th birthday, the party celebrated its 75 years. After 13 A Nation of Kings consecutive years in power, the party is today more disputed than it has However, there are noticeable dif- often been, but its success with the ferences between Iceland and other electorate throughout the history of immigrant societies. First of all, the republic is beyond dispute. What settlers from Europe came here al- then explains this success, rare for most a millennium before colonisers right wing parties in Europe? flocked North America and to parts of the British Empire. And whereas The First New Society the United States prided itself on receiving Europe´s hungry and poor, Perhaps we need to go farther back Iceland, it seems, was populated your own man. We are an independ- Party was formed as a club for the That is not very likely to happen into Icelandic history to find causes solely by kings. If these brought any ent people, a nation of kings. upper classes. In a nation of kings, here. Before long, there will no to this, much farther back than the subjects along, they receive scant But in a nation made up solely of everyone assumed this meant them. doubt be a realignment. Money will, actual founding of the party. We mention. Upon the unification of kings, it is very hard to organise as always, find its way into govern- need to go back to the very founding Norway, all the petty kings there left things. Icelanders are, unlike their The New Kings ment. Prime Minister Davíð Odds- of Iceland itself. and moved to Iceland. In the Saga Norwegian cousins who stayed be- son is stepping down in September. Every nation has, to a greater or age, we are told, every man in Ice- hind to serve the new state, very bad In a year that celebrates 100 years of Perhaps the next generation of Inde- lesser extent, mythological foun- land was a king. These are the stories at thinking in terms of groups. Small Home Rule, 60 years of independ- pendence Party leaders will be more dations. This is even more true we are brought up on. Icelanders did wonder then, that what is probably ence and 75 years of the Independ- accommodating to the new financial of settler communities who were not come here in search of a better the most successful organisation in ence Party, considerable changes interests. Or perhaps the new money consciously founded as new societies. life in a land of milk and honey. Icelandic history, managing to rep- have emerged in the landscape. men will find other parties to look The American scholar Louis Hartz They came here for their independ- resent consistently roughly 40% of Realignments of financial power after their investments, in which case said: ence. So whereas the American the population, stands not for what have taken place in the last decade the Independence Party might wind dream is one of overnight success, is best for the group but what is best that are nothing short of revolution- up, ironically, as truly representative “When a part of a European nation the Icelandic dream is one of being for the individual. The Independence ary. In the 90s, restrictions were of the people. As always we´ll be the eased and the economy was opened last to know, since Iceland, unique as up, and vast fortunes were made by always, is the only democracy which people who did not have strong ties does not insist upon political parties BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 to the Independence Party, whereas displaying their accounts. We don´t the wealthiest people in the past get to see who pays our representa- - PHONE: 551 3083 always did. Their fortunes are now tives bills, and hence have no idea on immeasurably greater than those of who´s behalf they speak. the old families (the 14 families or At least, for now, there are two the Octopus, as they were known) voices being heard in Iceland instead Oldest bakery in Iceland who formerly controlled the Icelan- of one, since the political elite and dic economy. But as the nouveau- the financial elite no longer speak riche have not yet been accepted by with a single, unified voice. That´s the old guard still in control of the something. But don´t expect it to since 1834 Independence Party, there now exists last forever. And don´t expect the a rift between financial and political new kings to be any different from power that is rarely seen in history. the old. A similar situation existed in France in the 18th Century. There financial power was being amassed by the bourgeois but the nobility still held a monopoly on political power, and this led to revolution. All Day

Come for the catchincluding of glassthe day o f w i n e

Vegamótastígur 4 Tel: 511 3040 www.vegamot.is 28 OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK STICK PINS IN THEIR FEET AND SLAP by Eydís Björnsdóttir THEM ON THE CHEEK

I cut across the adhesive tape, only to discover that there were staples underneath which held the box firmly shut. I eventually got it open and proudly displayed the skeleton that was hiding inside. No, not a scene from the latest for up to nine generations. There is horror flick, but for me an average also the occasional hopeless romantic day at work last summer. It was only who comes back for the love of his a plastic skeleton, but this shiny, life, mad with jealousy because she clean heap of bones was destined will eventually wed another (which to end up in the Ghost Museum at definitely brings the concept of a Stokkseyri. The Museum is a great jealous boyfriend into new dimen- addition to the range of museums sions). found in Iceland, and should serve as fine entertainment for everyone While possessing many supernatural interested in what has been lurking powers, Icelandic ghosts can’t say about in the darkness of Iceland’s the word Guð (God). Whenever a winter nights. And it shouldn’t only traveller came upon a farm, he would tickle the curiosity of foreigners but knock three times and say “Hér sé also any Icelander who enjoys a good Guð” (Here be God) to prove that tale. he was but a human visitor. This was important to do because the com- Maybe you don’t believe in ghost mon belief was that ghosts only came stories? In that case you could prob- to visit after the sun had set, as they ably do with a trip to some desolate had difficulty walking in sunlight. spot in the country. It’s amazing what pitch darkness, devoid of ci- Red sweaters and big hats vilisation, will do to any man’s belief In the Viking era, a spirit could be in the eerie. You might not come helpful or serve as a premonition. back believing in ghosts and goblins, Those spirits could be in the form of but you’ll definitely have a better an animal or somehow representa- understanding of the soil from which tive of the person’s character. Later, Icelandic ghost tales have sprung. the Roman Catholic Church denied People tend to think up such stories the existence of ghosts and punished when they’re faced with nothing but those who believed in them. But another poem. If that happened, the darkness for the better part of the superstitions die hard and although ogreish being was powerless against year and soon they’ll find them- the edicts from the Church changed the measly human. No matter how selves believing them. Iceland is no some minds, the common people fiendish the creature, the right exception for here abound stories of refused to give up entirely - they protection is always to be found in resurrected bodies, haunting spirits, adapted instead. As an example, folklore. And there are many ways to killer seals, trolls, men turning into ghosts cannot bear to hear Catholic protect yourself, depending on your beasts of all kind, and even the devil verses being spoken and the most means. Burning the hooves of a bull himself. effective of them all is Lilja, written inside your house will ward off any by the monk Eysteinn Ásgrímsson in possible intruders of an otherwordly The one word they can´t say the 14th century. nature, as will the burning of ram Anyway, back to ghosts. Here no Accompanying spirits of the 17th horns. It is also possible to scare one is so entirely dead as to be century and onwards seldom helped them off by throwing urine on them, unable to walk once more. The the living, but such behaviour wasn’t but for those who do not wish to deceased longs to return and this is entirely unheard of. The mean spirits resort to such desperate measures, it exactly what the living must prevent were distinguished by gender. Móri is quite enough to hang a horseshoe him from doing. For this there is is the male spook and he usually over the door. The horseshoe has to a procedure. Firstly, close his eyes wore a reddish sweater and a big hat turn upside down though (i.e. being so he cannot see. Secondly, carry or something similar to a coif. Skotta the image of a frown, not a smile) or the corpse feet first to the grave so is the female spook and she could be it won’t be of any use at all. that it can´t find its way back. It is recognized by her red cap which had usually the wrongdoers or those who a tail. Should you be in close proximity died swiftly or disastrously and can’t to a corpse, you could always stick abandon what was left behind, who Reciting poetry with a troll some needles in the soles of its feet, become ghosts capable of haunting People had huge faith in the spoken making it unbearable for the poor the living. word, especially poetry, and a poet wretch´s ghost to walk. Another, of power could spellbind with his probably simpler method would be Icelandic ghosts generally are far uttering. Ghastly creatures such as to give the corpse a fierce slap on the more physical than the spectral ap- ghosts and trolls sometimes sought cheek. The ghost should then go off paritions we’re used to in the movies. to increase their power by using po- to haunt someone else. They wreak havoc and can be strong etry, but they then made themselves If all else fails you can at least be as an ox. These ghosts even touch vulnerable to their victim who could comforted in the knowledge that humans; the most relentless ones either finish reciting their poem ghosts usually don’t live much longer will pursue a person’s descendants before they could, or reply with than 300 years.

Exiting planned day tours and KÖ-HÖNNUN / PMC custom made tours by your own wishes 29

ISLAND LIFE

Drunk man wields knife A man in Ísafjörður was arrested �� for waving knifes in the air during �� an argument with another man late Sunday evening. The man, who was very drunk, was taken away by police and locked up for the night. No one was hurt, but police say they are looking into the situation very seriously. Sea eagle chicks hatched �� Sea eagles have successful hatched chicks in a secret location in the north of Iceland. The species has in the past suffered from predation of �� habitat and persecution from eider farmers. There are only 60 known breeding pairs in Iceland.

Whales killed and examined Smaller cod Húsavík. The Ministry of Fisher- Concern is growing in the Icelandic �� ies has announced that it will be Fishing industry for the health of carrying out a scientific cull of cod stocks. Cod specimens are now minke whales. A similar cull last much smaller than they have been year created a storm of protest and in recent years. Whether the decline caused Greenpeace to send their ship is caused by overfishing, climate Rainbow Warrior to these shores. changes or a mixture of the two is yet This year 25 whales will be killed to be discovered. and examined, less than half of last year’s figure. Geysir by Robert jackson

next is utterly compelling. children yelled with pure pleasure the Visitor’s Centre and then walk- Iceland is often accused of having been dealt a poor hand by and excitement, as did their father. ing down to the falls from above; it whoever it was who handed out nature’s goodies all those years ago. You can see the water swelling up We stayed spellbound for at least an- is slightly longer but it gives a more No oil, no mineral wealth, no forests, no sun. This was a country inside the hole and then feel that you other half hour´s worth of eruptions. theatrical effect to the visit. We were are standing uncomfortably close to particularly fortunate because the sun that seemed to be sucking on the hind-teat of Genesis, a place several thousand litres of superheated 10 kilometers further on is Gull- was shining as we walked over the destined to receive Mother Nature’s nul-points for life. vapor which is about to be hurled foss and something equally worth brow of the hill forming rainbows in “I’ve given all the good stuff to my with my two young sons, we decided into the air. You know that it’s about seeing. Here the land cracked open the spray. believers a little closer to the biblical to forego the visit to Þingvellir and to blow, but you don´t know exactly and created these falls. These are homelands” said the man with the focus instead on the natural attrac- when, and then, just when you think not the highest in the world, but a The world can offer bigger falls and fluffy white beard, “See what you tions. that nothing is going to happen, a huge volume of water flows over the geysirs, but there is something won- can do with a few volcanoes, several huge blister of water forms over the precipices into a tight gorge. The derfully intimate about Iceland’s ver- prairies of lava fields, a basket load The drive to Geysir takes just over an entire opening which then is blasted effect is thundrous, spray-laden air sions. More importantly, they aren’t of geothermal activity and more rain hour, most of it through some pretty into the sky. Your only reaction is to which greets the visitor as he walks yet overrun with tourists and you than you can handle.” unpromising country which becomes flinch and withdraw to safety. The beside them. I recommend driving to feel that real effort has been made to littered with summer houses the maintain their natural splendour. His one concession to this un- closer you get. Arriving at the site promising cocktail of raw materi- gives a sense of impending anti-cli- als was to lump some of the more max for although the visitor centre is the interesting bits close together new and stuffed full of merchandise, and not too far away from where and the hotel’s flagstaffs are flutter- Icelanders decided to set up their ing with flags from several nations, capital city here in Reykjavik. a notice board tells us that we´ve come not to see The Geysir itself As a result, a good day out is to drive erupt. Apparently this only kicks into round what is called in the brochures action during times of earthquakes, ‘The Golden Circle’. Now don’t be state visits and other natural calami- put off by the overactive imagination ties.We’ve come instead, we find out, of whoever it was at the tourist board to see its poorer relative, Strokkur. who came up with this particular misnomer; he was only doing his Containing our disappointment, we job. The route takes the vistor to the plod our way up the path shrouded three main attractions to be found in sulphorous steam to the roped off close to Reykjavik: Þingvellir, Geysir area where Strokkur is building up and Gullfoss. As I was travelling for its next display. What happens Eiríkur Norðdal is a poet and member of the radical poetry � �� by Eiríkur Norðdal group Nýhil. He has so far published three poetry books of his own works as well as translated the best selling Stupid White Men by Michael Moore into Icelandic and made Ljúgðu Gosi, Ljúgðu (Lie Pinocchio, Lie) is a book of poems from a CD of a translation of Howl by Allen Ginsberg. He Iceland’s most insane poet/author. Steinar Bragi feels like an incandescent currently resides in Ísafjörður and is working in his novel and divine kick in the plebeian groin of society, a mad screaming “j’accuse!” Hugsjónadruslan (Idealist Slut, roughly -ed.) as well as more Ginsberg translations for a printed collection.

�� against just about everything, mostly the moralist j’accusers themselves. It’s The words of this book seem to be ramblings. There’s also a type of an utterly hopeless picture of the world, and completely void of any socially shouting at each other, through an sensitivity in it, the punk elements redeeming value, or hippy ideas of common responsibility - written as the endless interconnectivity of ideas and aren’t there for their own sake, they’re poet’s bloody and wet farewell kiss to a testicle he lost through cancer. In an basic play with contradictions that used to convey the feeling that society Icelandic landscape of mostly boring poetry books, and boring whiny poets, escalate to a point where the reader consists mostly of wankers. Or to be practically explodes in a neurotic fit of more precise: wanking. It’s the sort Steinar’s more or less overlooked poetry book creates pulsating hurrahs and laughter and shame. The community of book that makes a man want to bravos where once there were, at best, only sighs of relief at realizing that of Pinocchio-words doesn’t allow get off his sofa-loving ass and cancel the poet had not completely soiled the trousers of creativity itself. the rules of grammar to confine their his subscription to internet porn and meaning - which is given about as Morgunblaðið, and go dance in the � � much respect as the plebeian intel- streets with an ever-loving hip-swing ligentsia as the poet wonders, when of nihilistic joy. To resign the posi- 1. Ljúgðu Gosi, Ljúgðu (Lie Pinocchio, Lie) by Steinar Bragi. he has nothing better to do, if today tion of spectator in one’s own life and 2. Augu þín sáu mig (Your Eyes Saw Me) by Sjón is not the day to stick one’s penis up go around flipping the bird, picking 3. Ofvitinn (The Man Who Knew Too Much) by Þórbergur Þórðarson the presidents shithole. (this review fights and giving hugs, kicking ass and doesn´t allow the rules of grammar to taking names - and numbers - to each (Wrestling Tremors) collection of poems 4. Glímuskjálfti confine its meaning either -ed.) It’s a his own in a society of people that are by Dagur Sigurðarson community that beats with a natural mostly too well raised to say anything 5. Gæludýrin (The Pets) by Bragi Ólafsson pulse, instead of keeping perfect time of importance - and yet admitting 6. Áhyggjudúkkur (Dolls of Worry) by Steinar Bragi in the ever going nationalist march that we all have the beautiful ability 7. Þetta er allt að koma (We’re Getting There) by Hallgrímur Helgason that is Icelandic culture. to cease our eternal wanking and do something more interesting than read- 8. Tómas Jónsson -Metsölubók (Tómas Jónsson - Bestseller) But it’s more than just a punk book ing bad poetry written by boring poets. by Guðbergur Bergsson somehow - and more than just mad � �� by Freyr Eyjólfsson

Freyr Eyjólfsson is a presenter on Rás 2 radio station. He´s also a member of the bands Miðnes and Geirfuglarnir, who Megas og Spilaverk Þjóðanna - Á bleikum náttkjólum are currently Iceland’s reigning champions in the Battle of the I have listened to this album a million times and still haven´t found a Bands pop quiz Popppunktur. �� weak spot on it. Master Megas and one of the best ever Icelandic bands, Spilaverk Þjóðanna (Spilaverkið for short), join forces, and the result is an album that’s as Icelandic as dried cod, mutton and the cold wind. Leg- There´s some very Icelandic magic at derly and beautifully, he screams out work here and this album manages Paradísarfuglinn and has a different end has it that Spilaverkið wanted to try to make one album with Megas to be varied, surprising and clever. style on every track. before he killed himself with his hard living, but then Megas surprised Megas had just gotten the first The chord arrangement in Útum- everyone when he showed up at the studio with handwritten notes and taste of punk and wrote the song holtoghólablús is both wired and tons of songs. Paradísarfuglinn (Bird of Paradise) jazzy, one of his best songs. Karl where guitarist Valgeir Guðjónsson Sighvatsson shines on the Ham- plays the most manic guitar solo mond and the band as a whole are I´ve heard on an Icelandic album. outstanding. � � The song chronicles independence When the album was remastered heroes, drug use, insanity, folk myths and re-released a few outtakes were 1. Megas og Spilaverk Þjóðanna: Í bleikum náttkjólum and the lives of dock workers. Some included, which illustrate how much (In pink nightgowns)(see above) of the best moments are the upright fun it must have been when all this 2. Stuðmenn:Tívolí. bass at the beginning of the album, talent came together in a studio 3. Langi Seli og Skuggarnir: Rottur og kettir. (Rats and Cats). Megas´ wordless singing at the end in 1977. A very Icelandic album 4. Mínus: Halldór Laxness. of Sæmundur Fróði (Sæmundur the without equal in all of music history. Wise), and Orfeus og Evrídís, one Acoustic jazz, psychedelia, folk, punk 5. Spilverk Þjóðanna: Sturla. of the most beautiful love poems and everything, listening to this is an 6. Björk: Vespertine. in existence. It is always said that adventure in itself. Megas is the last 7. Bubbi: Ísbjarnarblús. Megas is just a wordsmith, but he´s of the national poets; and a magican. 8. Ske: Life, Death, Happiness and Stuff. just as good at composing music; just (He´s also a godlike genius with a listen to the singing on the album. devilish grin -ed.) He sings Orfeus and Evrídís ten-

� Ljúgðu Gosi, Ljúgðu �� by Robert Douglas by Steinar Bragi Róbert Douglas is of mixed Irish-Icelandic parentage. He first came to prominence through winning a series of awards at short film festivals. He has directed two feature length films; Íslenski draumurinn (The Icelandic �� Dream) and Maður eins og ég (A Man Like Me). His latest film, out this year, is Slá í gegn (Small Mall), a documentary about the life and dreams of people working in a mall. Á Bleikum Náttkjólum The best Icelandic film in my opinion is Megas & Georg Lifandi Lag (George Live Song), a short film made by the production Spilverk Þjóðanna group Lortur and portrayed an Icelandic karaoke singer who dreams of fame and fortune in his chosen field. He heads off � � to Denmark to make it on the karaoke scene. This is one of the funnier shorts 1. Georg Lifandi Lag. Short film by Lortur. I´ve seen. Everyone´s acting is astound- 2. Varði Does Europe. Documentary by Grímur Hákonarsson. ingly good and the idea is good and well executed, and even if it is somewhat raw 3. Lost Weekend. Short film and graduation project Georg Lifandi Lag by Dagur Kári (director of Nói Albínói) in parts it works very well, again primarily because of the humour. I don´t Short ﬁlm by Lortur Documentary Friðrik Þór. 4. Rokk í Reykjavík. by particularly like writing long treatises on 5. Amtmannsstígur 5. Short film by Jón Sæmundur. films that I´ve seen, they´re either good 6. Verði fer á vertíð Documentary by Grímur Hákonarson. or bad…and this was good. It would be 7. Klósettmenning. (Toilet Culture) Short film by Rúnar Rúnarsson fun to see this made into a full length feature one day. This is my top 8 list, 8. Burst. Short film by Reynir Lyngdal. but like all lists it changes from day to day and depending on the mood. Georg Lifandi Lag Short ﬁlm by Lortur