Puglia in Spring
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Puglia in Spring Naturetrek Tour Report 14 - 21 April 2018 Bertoloni's Bee Orchids by Jessica Turner Italian Marbled White by Tom Ambrose Italian Wall Lizard by Tom Ambrose Overlooking Matera by Jessica Turner Report compiled by Jessica Turner Images by Tom Ambrose and Jessica Turner Naturetrek Wolf’s Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Puglia in Spring Tour participants: Jessica Turner and Tom Ambrose (leaders) with 14 Naturetrek clients Summary This was our second Naturetrek trip to Puglia and, again, we were delighted with the range of birds and flowers, especially the orchids. Many Marsh, Hen and Montagu’s Harriers were on passage, and the spring migrants were arriving, with Swifts, Barn Swallows and House Martins abundant and good views of Northern and Black-eared Wheatears, Hoopoes, Golden Orioles, Woodchat Shrikes and a Common Rock Thrush. We also saw Lanner Falcon and Black Kites well, but the avian highlight must surely be the sheer number of Lesser Kestrels around the fascinating town of Matera. The orchids were breath-taking in their numbers and diversity, especially in the extensive grounds of Parco delle Querce, and we also enjoyed a good range of other Mediterranean spring flowers, many localised to Puglia or with a peri-Adriatic distribution, such as the maroon-flowered Figwort Scrophularia lucida and the blue spikes of the bellflower Asyneuma limonifolium at Capo d’Otranto. Dolphins and shearwaters added interest, and we enjoyed too the range of architecture from cave dwellings via trulli to cathedrals. While it was fairly windy throughout the week, for most of the time we were able to enjoy sun and pleasant temperatures. Jessica and Tom would like to thank the group members for their parts in making a very successful week. Day 1 Saturday 14th April Gatwick to Bari; transfer to Otranto The group met with Jessica and Tom at Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal for our 8.20am flight to Bari. It was cloudy for much of the way, but we could see the snowy Austrian Alps and the Dolomites, and we approached over the Adriatic coast, landing in hazy sunshine. We soon collected our luggage and sorted the vehicles. We then set off south towards Otranto; our route took us down the ‘Adriatic highway’ past Brindisi and round the southern town of Lecce. As we drove, we recorded many Magpies and Collared Doves and a few Swallows, while enjoying the views of the Adriatic to our left and noting all the poly-tunnels for vegetable and salad production of this region. We stopped for a break at a service station near Lecce, where we spent some time exploring the adjacent waste ground and Olive grove. Plants included Mallow-leaved Stork’s-bill (Erodium malacoides) and the yellow- flowered Fenugreek Trigonella balansae, which was scenting the air. Other plants included Crown Daisy (Glebionis coronarium) in both colour forms – yellow and yellow-and-white, Common Poppy (Papaver rhoeas), Galactites (Galactites tomentosa), Sand Catchfly (Silene conica), Weasel-snout (Misopates orontium) and Pink Fodder Vetch (Vicia benghalensis). Butterflies included Clouded Yellow, Eastern Bath White, Small Heath and Small Copper. Italian Wall Lizards were on the path, and birds included the ubiquitous Italian Sparrow and Serin. Refreshed, we drove round Lecce, where a Western Marsh Harrier was being mobbed by Jackdaws, and on towards Otranto. Common Buzzard, several more harriers, Black Kite and a Hoopoe were seen as we drove through the extensive Olive groves, noting how many have succumbed to the devastating bacterial infection Xylella fastigiata that is destroying the area’s Olives. We approached the hotel through the small village of Uggiano La Chiesa, along narrow and very minor approach roads, soon arriving at Masseria Panareo. This delightful, converted farmhouse has beautiful views © Naturetrek April 2017 1 Puglia in Spring Tour Report across to the coast and is full of character. Italian Sparrows were calling from the Palm Trees outside the rooms. After a short break, we met in the bar while Jessica outlined some of the plans for the week, before enjoying a delicious dinner. As we retired to bed, Scops Owl was calling from the surrounding trees, and later Common Quail could be heard. Day 2 Sunday 15th April Capo d’Otranto; Otranto area Some of the group were up early to explore the environs of the hotel. A Hoopoe was calling and was seen by one of the group. We had a look at the Italian Sparrows on the roofs, and some saw a Spotted Flycatcher. Swallows and Common Kestrel were seen, and a Marsh Harrier gave excellent views. A patch of rough ground, adjacent fields and an old quarry were rather quiet, so we started looking at some of the plants, recording Honeywort (Cerinthe major), Pyramidal Orchid (Anacamptis pyramidalis) and the narrow-leaved endemic Rock-rose Helianthemum jonium. After an excellent breakfast, we set off to explore the local area, first enjoying a fine spike of Field Gladiolus (Gladiolus italicus) on a bank by the car park. We drove north-east from the hotel, stopping after a couple of kilometres on a rise with views over the sea, to explore an area of limestone rocky meadow. Our attention was first drawn to the large numbers of Pyramidal Orchids (Anacamptis pyramidalis) in various shades of pink, amidst the yellow Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis fruticosa) and pink Hawk’s-beard (Crepis rubra). We also found Bertoloni’s Bee Orchid (Ophrys bertolonii), Small-flowered Tongue Orchid (Serapias parviflora), Pink Butterfly Orchid (Anacamptis papilionacea), Sawfly Orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) and a Yellow Bee Orchid (Ophrys lutea). Shrubby Thyme (Thymbra capitata) was extremely fragrant, as was Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis), the latter with small pink flowers. Other plants included the Lupin Lupinus gussonei, dark blue Tassel Hyacinth (Leopoldia comosa), tiny rosettes of Evax (Filago pygmaea), and numerous vetches including the beautiful dark-red Asparagus Pea (Lotus tetragonolobus). A number of Lesser Kestrels were seen, and harriers were on the move, with Western Marsh, Hen and Montagu’s Harriers all recorded. Northern and Black-eared Wheatears gave good views, as did several Woodchat Shrikes, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark and Lesser Whitethroat. Two male Golden Orioles were a treat, as was a male Common Rock Thrush. Sardinian Warbler was singing and sometimes seen, Swallows and House Martins swooped low overhead, while Bee-eaters were generally higher. Butterflies included Eastern Bath White, Small White, Small Heath and Red Admiral, while a young Western Whip Snake was glimpsed. Eventually we moved on, but only as far as the lighthouse at Capo d’Otranto. This is the most easterly point of mainland Italy, closer to the Albanian coast and Corfu than Naples, and is the point where the Adriatic Sea is said to join the Ionian Sea. As we pulled up, a party of about 10 Bee-eaters were perched on the wires, as were several Lesser Kestrels. We started to walk down the path towards the lighthouse. On these sheltered banks, butterflies were active, with Green-underside Blue and Wall Brown being new. We also found a single, newly emerged Italian Marbled White, resting on a grass stem. Many black Mining Bees were on the path, and we saw good numbers of Italian Wall Lizards enjoying the sun. Out to sea we saw a pod of Dolphins, probably Bottlenose, and various shearwaters, the majority being Yelkouan Shearwater. The striking Figwort Scrophularia lucida was growing on rocks, and we also saw the bellflower Asyneuma limonifolium, two plants 2 © Naturetrek April 2017 Puglia in Spring Tour Report which are special to Puglia within Italy, but which also occur across the Adriatic. We also found Swallow-wort (Vincetoxicum hirundinaria subsp. adriatica), Prasium (Prasium majus) and Common Sideritis (Sideritis romana). We returned to the hotel to eat our picnic on their terrace, stopping on the way for a fine male Hen Harrier. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, including local cheeses and wine, during which a Hoopoe was seen on the tennis court. Suitably refreshed, we then drove north to Otranto, parking on the edge and taking time to explore this old town, with its Aragonese castle and ramparts, and Cathedral with a fascinating twelfth- century mosaic floor representing the tree of life. Swifts were screaming overhead, and a Cetti’s Warbler was seen as well as heard by the car park. After a break, we met again to complete our checklists and enjoy another excellent meal. A strong wind got up during dinner but, despite this, some of the group went to listen to the Scops Owls, although they could not see the birds. Day 3 Monday 16th April Le Cesine, Santa Foca The strong overnight wind started to ease in the grey early morning, but the birdlife (apart from the Italian Sparrows) was fairly quiet. The Quail was heard briefly. Today we visited the area of Le Cesine, with its Olive groves, lakes, evergreen woodland and sand dunes. This lies further up the coast, so we retraced our steps past Capo d’Otranto. Our route took us past the Laghi Alimini, two adjacent lakes joined by a channel, the northern one being brackish, the southern one fresh, but they were very quiet. We reached Le Cesine and parked on a closed-off section of road, admiring the swathes of the endemic Stork’s-bill Erodium nervulosum, with its showy pink flowers. The shrubs included pink Cistus creticus, white Sage-leaved Cistus (Cistus salvifolius), Lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), Mediterranean Buckthorn (Rhamnus alaternus) and Myrtle (Myrtus communis), while the yellow-flowered Blue Wattles (Acacia saligna), although not native, were magnificent.