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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
The Morgue File 2010
the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. -
Nine Inch Nails Pretty Hate Machine Free
FREE NINE INCH NAILS PRETTY HATE MACHINE PDF Daphne Carr | 144 pages | 03 May 2011 | Bloomsbury Publishing PLC | 9780826427892 | English | London, United Kingdom Nine Inch Nails - Wikipedia The album consists of reworked tracks from the Purest Feeling demo tape, as well as songs composed after its original recording. The album, which features a heavily synth-driven electronic sound blended with industrial and rock elements, bears little resemblance to the band's subsequent work. Conversely, much like the band's later Nine Inch Nails Pretty Hate Machine, the album's lyrics contain themes of angst, betrayal, and lovesickness. The record was promoted with the singles " Down in It ", " Head Like a Hole ", and " Sin ", as well as the accompanying tour. A remastered edition was released in Although the record was successful, reaching No. Pretty Hate Machine was later certified triple-platinum by RIAAbecoming one of the first independently released albums to do so, and was included on several lists of the best releases of the s. During working nights as a handyman and engineer at the Right Track Studio in ClevelandOhioReznor used studio "down-time" to record and develop his own music. The sequencing was done on a Macintosh Plus. With the help of manager John Malm, Jr. Reznor received contract offers from many of the labels, but eventually signed with TVT Recordswho were known mainly for releasing novelty and television jingle records. Much like his recorded demo, Reznor refused to record the album with a conventional band, recording Pretty Hate Machine mostly by himself. I became completely withdrawn. I couldn't function in society very well. -
Acts of Identity: a Political Theory of Biography
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Los Angeles Acts of Identity: A Political Theory of Biography A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science by William Samuel Stahl 2018 Ó Copyright by William Samuel Stahl 2018 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION Acts of Identity: A Political Theory of Biography by William Samuel Stahl Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science University of California, Los Angeles, 2018 Professor Joshua F. Dienstag, Chair My dissertation, Acts of Identity: A Political Theory of Biography, is prompted by the puzzle: why have so many political theorists shown interest in the genre of biography, seemingly such a private and apolitical genre? I answer that biography is a powerful lens through which to analyze the link between individual identity formation and political action. I develop this answer through four chapters that engage with a selection of political theorists who have written biographic works. In the first chapter, I examine Hannah Arendt’s claim that human beings are unlike other living things because each one of us develops a unique identity from the singularity of our biography. For her, who we are – and what makes us human – is what we say and do. In chapter two, I analyze Giorgio Agamben’s challenge to Arendt: he concludes that what makes us human is not what we say or do, but what we have the potential to do. This implies that our biography does not define who we are or make us human. I agree with the latter implication, but not the former. While the form of human life may not be biographic, individual identity is. -
The Trolley Problem and the Dropping of Atomic Bombs Masahiro Morioka*
Journal of Philosophy of Life Vol.7, No.2 (August 2017):316-337 The Trolley Problem and the Dropping of Atomic Bombs Masahiro Morioka* Abstract In this paper, the ethical and spiritual aspects of the trolley problem are discussed in connection with the dropping of atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. First, I show that the dropping of atomic bombs was a typical example of the events that contained the logic of the trolley problems in their decision-making processes and justifications. Second, I discuss five aspects of “the problem of the trolley problem;” that is to say, “Rarity,” “Inevitability,” “Safety Zone,” “Possibility of Becoming a Victim,” and “Lack of Perspective of the Dead Victims Who Were Deprived of Freedom of Choice,” in detail. Third, I argue that those who talk about the trolley problem are automatically placed in the sphere of the expectation of response on the spiritual level. I hope that my contribution will shed light on the trolley problem from a very different angle, which has not been made by our fellow philosophers. 1. Introduction Brian Short writes a concise explanation of a standard type of the trolley problem in a recent issue of the LSA Magazine. You’re standing next to a train track when you spot a locomotive approaching. Farther down the track are five people in the path of the train but too far away for you to shout a warning to them. A lever next to you would allow you to divert the train – saving the lives of five people – onto a track with only one person standing on it. -
Sponsoring Committee: Professor Jennifer S. Tsien, Chairperson Professor Janet R
Sponsoring Committee: Professor Jennifer S. Tsien, Chairperson Professor Janet R. Horne Professor Stéphanie Bérard Professor Emily Ogden BEYOND “QUELQUES ARPENTS DE NEIGE : ” REPRESENTATION OF NEW FRANCE IN FRENCH TEXTS, 1703 TO 1780 Nathan D. Brown Department of French Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of French University of Virginia 2014 Copyright © 2014 Nathan D. Brown TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 3 CHAPTER INTRODUCTION Abandoned Children on the Banks of the Saint Lawrence 5 CHAPTER 1 The Travel Narratives of Lahontan and Charlevoix: Imaging New France and 36 Naming its People CHAPTER 2 Sauvage foils or sauvage foibles ? : Fear of Degeneration and Hope for 88 Regeneration in New France CHAPTER 3 Utopian Visions and Dressing Across Borders : 136 The Discursive Role of New France in Alain-René Lesage's Beauchêne, Les Mariages de Canada, and La Sauvagesse CHAPTER 4 New France in the Discourse of Voltaire and Raynal : Cautionary Tales, 198 Sentimentality, Anglophilia. CONCLUSION Memories of New France : The New Becomes Old 249 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I wish to express my gratitude to Jennifer Tsien, who encouraged me to embark on this project, for her continuing advice, support, and enthusiasm. I also wish to thank Janet Horne and Stéphanie Bérard both of whom provided useful guidance and whose courses influenced my thinking on this topic. I would also like to acknowledge and thank Emily Ogden for her thoughts on this project. Any remaining errors and malapropisms in these pages are, of course, entirely my own. Finally, my deepest thanks go to Elizabeth Brown whose encouragement and good humor kept this project enjoyable and on time. -
The Electrical Transformation of the Public Sphere: Home Video, the Family, and the Limits of Privacy in the Digital Age
THE ELECTRICAL TRANSFORMATION OF THE PUBLIC SPHERE: HOME VIDEO, THE FAMILY, AND THE LIMITS OF PRIVACY IN THE DIGITAL AGE By Adam Capitanio A DISSERTATION Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY American Studies 2012 ABSTRACT THE ELECTRICAL TRANSFORMATION OF THE PUBLIC SPHERE: HOME VIDEO, THE FAMILY, AND THE LIMITS OF PRIVACY IN THE DIGITAL AGE By Adam Capitanio One of the constituent features of the digital age has been the redrawing of the line between private and public. Millions of social media users willingly discuss intimate behavior and post private photographs and videos on the internet. Meanwhile, state and corporate bodies routinely violate individual privacy in the name of security and sophisticated marketing techniques. While these occurrences represent something new and different, they are unsurprising given the history of home and amateur media. In this dissertation, I argue that contemporary shifts in the nature of the public/private divide have historical roots in the aesthetics and style found in home movies and videos. In other words, long before Facebook and YouTube enabled users to publicly document their private lives, home movies and videos generated patterns of representation that were already shifting the unstable constitution of the “private” and the “public” spheres. Using critical theory and archival research, I demonstrate how home moviemakers represented their families and experiences in communal and liminal spaces, expanding the meaning of “home.” When video become the predominant medium for domestic usage, home mode artifacts became imbricated with television, granting them a form of phantasmagoric publicity that found fulfillment in the digital era. -
Ecce Distentio Est Uita Mea: St
Ecce Distentio est Uita Mea: St. Augustine’s philosophy of time in and beyond Confessions XI By Rachel Sanderoff Submitted to The Central European University Department of Philosophy In partial fulfilment of the requirements for the Master of Arts Degree in Philosophy. Supervisor: Professor Matthias Riedl Second Reader: Professor István Bodnár CEU eTD Collection Budapest, Hungary 2017 Contents Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 3 Part I. Interpretive Approaches to Confessions Book XI ................................................................ 7 The Narrow Definition of Time .............................................................................................................. 7 Time and Eternity: The Theological Dimensions ............................................................................... 10 Time and Eternity: “Ascent” .................................................................................................................. 17 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................................ 27 Part II. Time and Eternity in Confessions I-IX ................................................................................ 30 Introduction: Time, Eternity and Augustine’s Rhetoric ..................................................................... 30 Distentio Animi in the ‘Autobiography’ .............................................................................................. -
And Critical Realism: the Role of Contradiction in Social Movement Activism 241
Durham E-Theses Against Morality: A Critical Realist Examination of a History of Western Sexual Normativity. An Appeal for Emancipation and Explanation through Emergentist Social Science BROCK, THOMAS,GEORGE,JAMES How to cite: BROCK, THOMAS,GEORGE,JAMES (2012) Against Morality: A Critical Realist Examination of a History of Western Sexual Normativity. An Appeal for Emancipation and Explanation through Emergentist Social Science, Durham theses, Durham University. Available at Durham E-Theses Online: http://etheses.dur.ac.uk/3430/ Use policy The full-text may be used and/or reproduced, and given to third parties in any format or medium, without prior permission or charge, for personal research or study, educational, or not-for-prot purposes provided that: • a full bibliographic reference is made to the original source • a link is made to the metadata record in Durham E-Theses • the full-text is not changed in any way The full-text must not be sold in any format or medium without the formal permission of the copyright holders. Please consult the full Durham E-Theses policy for further details. Academic Support Oce, Durham University, University Oce, Old Elvet, Durham DH1 3HP e-mail: [email protected] Tel: +44 0191 334 6107 http://etheses.dur.ac.uk 2 1 Abstract A model of reality derived from critical realism and historical sociology provides a sufficient account of Christian sexual morality and shows that powerful human agents are responsible for the normative regulation of non-procreative forms of sexual activity in the West. If we are to understand the sui generis powers of human agents, sociology must engage with a model of reality which adequately conceptualises an entwining synchronic and diachronic realm. -
The Victorian Age: a History of Dress, Textiles, and Accessories, 1819–1901
The Victorian Age: A History of Dress, Textiles, and Accessories, 1819–1901 International Conference of Dress Historians Friday, 25 October 2019 and Saturday, 26 October 2019 Convened By: The Association of Dress Historians www.dresshistorians.org Conference Venue: The Art Workers’ Guild 6 Queen Square London, WC1N 3AT England The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) supports and promotes the study and professional practice of dress and textile history. The ADH is proud to support scholarship in dress and textile history through its international conferences, the publication of The Journal of Dress History, prizes and awards for students and researchers, and ADH members’ events such as curators’ tours. The ADH is passionate about sharing knowledge. The mission of the ADH is to start conversations, encourage the exchange of ideas, and expose new and exciting research in the field. The ADH is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. As with all ADH publications, this conference programme is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. To view all ADH information, including events, Calls For Papers, and complete issues of The Journal of Dress History for free viewing and downloading, please visit www.dresshistorians.org. In the interest of the environment, this conference programme will not be printed on paper. We advise reading the programme digitally. Also in the interest of the environment, at the end of the conference please return plastic name badges to the name badge table, so the badges can be recycled. Thank you. If you are attending both days of the conference, you must retrieve your new name badge when you enter the venue on the second morning. -
SMART/EST III Project
SMART/EST III Project TRANSLATING EFFECTIVE HEALTH BEHAVIOR STRATEGIES INTO PRACTICE FOR HIV+ WOMEN Participant Workbook Page 1 SESSION 1: SELECTING TREATMENT GOALS Stressors Goals Everyone has issues. What do you want to work on? Major Stressors Practical Treatment Goals Goal: Improving the way I care for Ex. 1: Feeling sick my health. Ex. 2: Fights with friends Goal: Improving communication with others. Ex. 3: Financial problems Goal: Working to increase income. Ex. 4: Feeling depressed Goal: Understanding and treating my depression. SMART/EST WOMENS PROJECT Participant Workbook Adapted from The SMART Manual, (Antoni, et. al.) Page 2 of 73 SESSION 1: SELECTING TREATMENT GOALS Stressors Goals Everyone has issues. What do you want to work on? Major Stressors Practical Treatment Goals SMART/EST WOMENS PROJECT Participant Workbook Adapted from The SMART Manual, (Antoni, et. al.) Page 3 of 73 SESSION 1: VALUES CLARIFICATION/ THEME IDENTIFICATION Stressor Values/Themes What is important to you? What do you value? Stressor Values/Themes Thoughts Connection/Love Achievement/Identity Safety/Integrity Injustice Ex. 1: I had a fight I want to have a loving with my boyfriend. Connection/Love relationship and I’m afraid our connection is damaged. Ex. 2: I couldn’t Achievement/Identity I think of myself as a hard handle all my work worker, but I just can’t handle at my job. everything I have to do. Ex 3:I got rejected Injustice I need these benefits and it is for benefits unfair that I was denied. because I misunderstood the forms. Ex 4: My doctor Safety/Integrity I’m worried about my health and doesn’t listen to I want to get better, but my me. -
Isocrates, Panegyricus
ISOCRATES, PANEGYRICUS The J. A. Freese Translation Introduction IN the "Panegyricus," the most famous of all the writings of Isocrates, we first meet with a clear exposition of his dominant political idea--the formation of a union of the Greeks to carry on war against Persia. It takes its name from the "Panegyreis," or great public festivals, such as the Panathenaea at Athens, or the pan-Hellenic festival at Olympia.1 Gorgias, Lysias, and others had already composed speeches which were delivered at Olympia (Olympiac speeches), and it is probable that Isocrates here has in mind the festival at Olympia. It is not likely that the speech was ever actually delivered, although we are told, on the authority of Philostratus, that it was. The retiring disposition of Isocrates, his lack of self-confidence, and his poorness of voice, seem to go against this. It is considered possible that he may have deputed some one else to deliver it for him; and that it afterwards was put into circulation by copies being sent round to the various Greek states.2 According to the statement of Quintilian, Isocrates was ten years engaged in its composition. Its date is approximately fixed as the latter part of the summer of B.C. 380. At the time when the speech was written Sparta was the ruling power in Greece, Artaxerxes II. was master of the Asiatic Greeks, and the Aegean was overrun by pirates, so that there was every need of someone to rouse the Athenians to re-assert their supremacy. After apologizing for coming forward to speak, Isocrates proceeds to recount the services rendered by Athens to Hellas generally, and to particular states in early times, dwelling upon the rivalry of Athens and Sparta during the Persian wars.