The Morgue File
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1850-1900 1901-1919 1920 The Morgue File Bailey Lovell 1930 1940 1950 1960 Victorian Era (1850-1900) The Victorian Era was quite literally named after Queen Victoria who reigned from 1837-1901. During this time, the British empire abolished slavery which freed more than 800,000 slaves at the time. Travel was revolutionized by the invention of the steam powered railway. Queen Victoria led London into a sixteen year long mourning after the death of her husband which revolutionized the way civilians dressed. The style of dress was very muted colors with no shine to the jewelry worn and London was very somber during this time. Corsets were very important during this time and shaped the way the woman’s body would be for the rest of her life. Many women during the day would keep themselves occupied by changing up to seven times throughout the day for their daily activities including horseback riding and tea time. The fashion world was revolutionized by the invention of the sewing machine which led to the first every fashion designer, Charles Worth.Charles Worth was the inventor of the polonaise skirt and began to use real women as models which he called mannequins. He also designed for Queen Victoria herself and other royalty. The crinoline was also invented during the Victorian Era which created the full skirt which needed lots of assistance to put on and take off. Women's Daywear Zouave Jacket: The zouave jacket is a bolero Crinoline Skirt: The crinoline skirt was a cage The Corset: The corset was one of the most style jacket that is tighter at the sleeve and style hooped underskirt that used stiff netting. popular items in a woman’s wardrobe during balloons out at the elbows. These jackets often The cage crinoline was nicknamed the the Victorian Era. The garment gave women an had exquisite details and trims on them which “birdcage” not only because of its appearance, hourglass figure but also made it harder for showed a person's wealth. The jackets were but also because of the caged state of the them to breathe because it compressed the braided trimmed and worn by women and woman wearing it. The crinoline was worn lungs together. A woman was given her first children the the inspiration from the battalion under the woman’s dress to make it bigger and corset at the age of three to start forming the of Algerians fighting in the French War. fuller. body to an ideal waist size of 17. Women’s Evening Wear Bustle: The bustle was a pad of cork, down Decollete: Low neckline bodice of a blouse or other type of stuffing worn under a skirt, or dress. The Victorian version was low cut Ballgown: This was the type of ball which is attached to the back below the on the shoulders. The decollete neckline is a gown worn in the Victorian Era. These waist to hold out skirts in back. traditional component of evening dresses gowns were often made out of luxurious and ball gowns. Women who were married materials such as silk and satin. would show more skin than unmarried women. Men’s Wear Waistcoat: The double breasted waistcoat Chesterfield Overcoat:A man’s wool was a staple piece to a man’s ensemble. This Frock Coat: A man’s coat with a fitted overcoat with a fitted waist and velvet garment was usually worn over a white sleeved waist attached with a waistline seam to a collar. Variations of the style were shirt with a coat and trousers. The waistcoat knee length or shorter skirt. double breasted and/or had a fur collar. was usually made of fabrics such as wool, satin silk, brocade, or cotton in different weaves or finishes. The waistcoat provided distinction and color in the man’s otherwise uninteresting ensemble. Accessories Gloves: essential and were often Parasol: an umbrella like accessory used Louis Heel: Shoes weren't really crocheted or embroidered by the by women for shading from the sun. important because the dresses in the women themselves. Also popular were This was one of the most important Victorian Era covered them. The Louis kid leather gloves. The silver buttoner items brought out daily. heel was popular for men and women. would make it easier to dress oneself. These were often as high as five inches Evening gloves were satin or really thick tall. cotton that's been woven. Bibliography Victorian Era: Zouave Jacket (1800s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://i.pinimg.com/originals/0f/dc/f5/0fdcf5c73178386b534e2a4884b12d31.jpg Crinoline Skirt (1860s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108689 The Corset (1900s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/153082.html?mulR=1235387001%7C11 Bustle (1870s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/139653 Decolotte (1860s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/261500 Ballgown (1850s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1830-to-1840/ Chesterfield Overcoat (1900s). Retrieved November 22,2019 fromhttps://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1830-to-1840/ Waistcoat (1800s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90767 Frock Coat (1800s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.flickr.com/photos/19603157@N03/2302872889/in/photostream Bibliography Gloves (1860s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/105018 Parasol (1860s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/102722 Louis Heel (1800s). Retrieved November 22,2019 from http://www.1860-1960.com/xs0159p0.html Edwardian Era and World War 1(1901-1919) With the death of Queen Victoria, the mourning period disappeared and a new Queen came into power. Alexandra of Denmark became the new Queen after marrying Prince Edward VII. Queen Alexandra set a bunch of the fashion trends of this era such as the use of pastel colors in outfits rather than the dark colors that were previously worn from Queen Victoria’s reign. Queen Alexandra popularized the Tea Gown which was a very popular dress during this era. The crinoline skirt started to fade away and the natural silhouette of the woman’s body started to be highlighted more instead of hiding it. In 1909, Ford mass- produced the Model T automobile for the first time which had everyone using automobiles to get around. The Gibson Girl was the first fashion icon of this time that wasn’t royalty or an actual person. The Gibson Girl was created by Charles Dana Gibson and was seen wearing a shirtwaist tucked into a trumpet skirt with her hair up in a chignon style. The creation of the Gibson Girl was a step forward to the more comfortable silhouette for women. Jean Patou was an influential designer during this time period with his sportswear line in the late teens as well as his use of geometric patterns in his pieces. Women’s Day Wear Tea Gown: The Tea Gown was also Shirtwaist: The shirtwaist was a blouse. Duster: The duster was a long, lightweight known as the lingerie dress. It was a It was the feminine version of a man’s coat made of gabardine or wool introduced muslin dress, popular in which was the shirt. The shirtwaist especially came during the late 19th century for motoring. most important style of the Edwardian with a center, front placket. The duster had long sleeves and a high Era. It was soft and sexy creation of collar and enveloped the body from the flimsy chiffon or silk, loose fitting neck to the ankles. The purpose was to keep structure and extremely feminine. the dust off wearers and was usually used by cowboys. Women’s Evening Wear Cocoon Coat: inspired by the kimono, it was an evening coat often made of The Evening Gown: This evening The hobble skirt: The hobble skirt was velvet, silk, or wool with one closure at gown, created by Worth in 1910, shows full through the hips and thighs, then the straight up and down silhouette he the front. Oval shaped coat was often tapered drastically at the lower leg. It used within the designing of evening embroidered or trimmed with fur. restricted leg movement for women. gowns. Remains popular until the 1920’s. Men’s Wear Drape Suit: The drape suit, also Knickerbockers: Knickerbockers were Smoking Jacket: A man’s silk, velvet known as the sack suit, had loose, loose, full breeches which are gathered long sleeved short jacket. This jacket was comfortable jacket with no waistline, below the knee and fastened by a button or worn at home in the second half of the matching vest and straight legged buckle. These were worn for activities such 19th century. It was similar to a dressing trousers. Seen as sportswear for as golfing, hunting, and bicycling. Boys gown. During the 1920’s, it was also upperclassmen. Men would wear this would wear these on a regular basis until popular as women’s lounging attire. suit when they were going out to shop. they were mature enough to wear long trousers. Accessories Knossos Scarf: The Knossos Scarf was Alexandria Collar: a choker of pearls Beekeepers Hood: A lightweight straw a long sheer silk rectangle based on the in combination with diamonds and hat with a wide shallow crown and a ancient cretan civilization clothing. It other precious stones or a simple black wide down turned brim, often worn was worn with a very sheer piece of velvet ribbon. with veil of sheer silk. (this was worn fabric with no corset or undergarments with veil and duster, 1915) on underneath.