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BUYING GUIDE APRIL 2012 An ancient press in Yad Hashmona, a moshav nestled in the Judean Hills near Jerusalem, speaks to the history of wine and oil making in the region. 2 ISRAEL 18 PORTUGAL 21 SPAIN 25 ITALY 41 FRANCE 47 AUSTRALIA 48 NEW ZEALAND 49 CALIFORNIA 63 WASHINGTON 71 NEW YORK 74 OTHER U.S. 75 CANADA 76 SPIRITS 78 BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WineMag.com | 1 ISRAEL KOSHER FOR PASSOVER ith the approach of the Jewish holiday Passover, the demand for kosher certification. kosher wine significantly rises, as four cups of wine per person In the past, mevushal practices truly did result in boiled wine—hardly W are ritually consumed during the holiday dinner, or seder. Most conducive to high quality. But flash-pasteurization—which involves expos- shoppers purchase kosher wines reluctantly, believing that these wines can’t ing the wine to temperatures of 71–74° C for about 15-30 seconds while compare to their usual nonkosher counterparts. Though kosher wines are moving in a continuous flow—is far less damaging to the wine, maintaining haunted by a poor reputation, recent procedural and technological advances more color and flavor than previous practices allowed. have increased the variety and quality in the category, prompting consumers This month’s Buying Guide begins with Israeli wine reviews, which are to rethink their positions and opinions. not necessarily kosher, but the majority of those imported into the Unit- Generally speaking, kosher wine must be produced according to the Jew- ed States are. You will also find reviews from Alsace, Australia, Chile, Italy, ish dietary laws, avoiding specific forbidden foods and under strict rabbini- New Zealand, Portugal, Spain and the U.S. And as always, be sure to check cal supervision. Commercially available wines must have the hechsher (seal out our online database at buyingguide.winemag.com, complete with a of approval) of a rabbi, supervising agency or organization (such as the “OU” new kosher wine search function, for even more wonderful reviews from sign of the Orthodox Union). A kosher wine labeled mevushal has under- around the world. gone an additional heating process, making it possible for non-Jews or non- L’Chaim! observant Jews to touch the finished product while still preserving the wine’s —LAUREN BUZZEO ISRAEL Golan Heights Winery 2009 Yarden but balanced, and ripe notes of peach and melon unfold 87 Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). A on the palate. A tasty ginger and clove spice develops on lush and tropical-fruit driven Chard; ripe notes of pa- the finish. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. CHARDONNAY paya, mango and apricot flood the nose and mouth. It’s abv: 15.5% Price: $18 Gamla 2010 The Reserve Chardonnay rich and heavy in the mouth, but with good enough cut Flam 2010 Unoaked Blanc (Judean (Galilee). Fresh and easy, this approachable to keep things from being too sweet or cloying. Yarden 89 Hills). A fresh and easy-drinking white made Chard exhibits bright aromas of fresh red apple, light Wines, Inc. —L.B. 86 14.5% $19 from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the Blanc citrus and dainty yellow flowers. The palate is slight- abv: Price: boasts scents of soft talcum powder, pink peony and or- ly richer and fuller-bodied, with lush flavors of wood- Segal’s 2009 Special Reserve Chardon- ange blossom against a gooseberry and white strawberry grilled apple skins and toasted brioche that transition nay (Galilee). Ripe and fruit-forward, this fruit backbone. Zippy and prickly in the mouth with a into the baking-spice laden finish. Royal Wine Corpo- 87 round Chard boasts intense aromas and flavors of tropi- mouthwatering, grassy finish. Royal Wine Corporation. ration. —L.B. cal fruit, pear and orange oil along with a hint of yellow —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $21 florals. Subtle toast and clove spice accents remains on abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Golan Heights Winery 2008 Yarden Katz- the finish. Drink now. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. 13.5% $18 Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden Sau- rin Chardonnay (Galilee). Ripe yellow abv: Price: 89 vignon Blanc (Galilee). Lime pith, green peach, apple and a hint of honeydew fill the nose and 84 Golan Heights Winery 2008 Yarden Char- plum and white clover aromas lead the nose of this Sauv mouth, along with a soft kiss of toasted oak and sweet donnay (Galilee). The light bouquet offers Blanc, and the mouth offers similarly tart and tight fla- spice. The medium weight mouth is balanced and full, 82 faint notes of toasted red apple, while in the mouth this vors. The short finish favors white grapefruit accented leading into vibrant acidity that lifts the finish. A beau- flabby wine exhibits notes of mealy flesh accented with by green grass. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. tiful dried and spiced orange-peel flavor lingers on the soft spice. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 finish. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 SPARKLING WINE Psagot 2010 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). OTHER WHITE WINES 88 A powerful yellow floral character dominates Golan Heights Winery 2005 Yarden Blanc the bouquet of this wine, with supporting aromas of Carmel 2010 Kayoumi Vineyard Single 87 de Blancs Brut (Galilee). Delicate aromas of peach pit, hard pear and delicate toast rounding it out. 88 Vineyard White Riesling (Galilee). Light toasted egg bread, baked apple and orange rind dance The palate is full and creamy, but lifted by citrus-driven and easy but attractive, with aromas of green plum, in the bouquet, while the brisk and effervescent mouth acidity and a wood-spice finish. Royal Wine Corpora- lime, green apple and a hint of petrol. Lightweight but shows more red apple-skin flavor alongside acidic notes tion. —L.B. flavorful in the mouth, with lifting acidity to the ripe of pineapple core and lime zest. Balanced and refresh- abv: 14.9% Price: $21 fruit flavors on the palate. Faint hints of orange rind ing. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. and clove appear on the finish. Royal Wine Corpora- abv: 12% Price: $25 Binyamina 2010 Reserve Unoaked Char- tion. —L.B. 87 donnay (Judean Hills). Pineapple, peach, abv: 13% Price: $26 ripe melon and sweet orange oil lead the way on this fresh, unoaked Chard. It’s easy-drinking and clean with Golan Heights Winery 2008 Yarden Viog- a medium-weight mouthfeel and a bright, mouthwater- 88 nier (Galilee). Decadent notes of buttered ing finish. Drink now. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. brioche and baked apple add depth to the orange oil Continued on Page 16 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and floral bouquet of this wine. The mouthfeel is round 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New Taylor Fladgate 2009 Vintage Port. Taylor York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2008 Cask 23 96 Fladgate’s vintage Ports are always among the Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in 97 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- legendary wines. This hugely structured wine keeps the Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and ley). One sip is all it takes to fall in love with this 100% dense, perfumed tradition very much alive. Along with Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Cabernet, which hails from the winery’s Stags Leap Dis- the power, it also has wonderful fruit, bursting out with initials appear following the note. When no initials appear trict vineyards. It’s soft, lush and opulent in blackberry, blackberry jam. Even with all the fruitiness, it needs to following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or cherry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate and smoky oak age for decades. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input flavors. Although it was aged in 100% new French oak, abv: 20.5% Price: $99 of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are the oak isn’t at all heavy. Rather, it’s perfect, adding just by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, the right touch of smoke. Really fabulous, and the tan- its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by nins define Stags Leap, so strong yet sweetly refined. If the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content you can keep your hands off it, this is a wine to cellar for cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. many years. —S.H. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.5 Price: $195 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
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