Herbs for the Gourmet Gardener a Practical Resource from the Garden to the Table by Caroline Holmes
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Herbs for the Gourmet Gardener A Practical Resource from the Garden to the Table By Caroline Holmes The rise of the slow food movement the realms of both the garden and the and the return to home gardens mean kitchen, addressing the cultivation, cooks are donning gardening gloves storage, and preparation of more than as often as oven mitts. Modern cook- sixty herbs. Practical growing tips, ing is heading back to its roots, with fascinating histories, nutritional infor- home cooks embracing local ingredi- mation, and classic recipes appear ents and down-to-earth recipes. With alongside botanical illustrations more and more of us discovering the drawn from the Royal Horticultural delight of preparing and eating fresh- Society’s cherished collection. With ly harvested food, Herbs for the Gour- both familiar varieties and novel op- met Gardener is the indispensable tions, Herbs for the Gourmet Gardener guide to what to grow, cook, and eat. will inspire you to create a world of A feast for the eyes and the table, new shapes, colors, and tastes. this user-friendly resource traverses Publication date For a review copy or other To place orders in the United September 22, 2014 publicity inquiries, please States or Canada, please contact: contact your local University $25.00, cloth Lauren Salas of Chicago Press sales 978-0-226-17283-5 Promotions Manager representative or contact the 224 pages University of Chicago Press University of Chicago Press [email protected] by phone at 1-800-621-2736. 200 color plates, 6 x 9 773-702-0890 CONTENTS CONTAINERS 104 Sweet bay Laurus nobilis 106 TOPIARY 108 How to use this book 6 Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium 40 Lavender Lavandula angustifolia 110 Introduction 7 Greater burdock Arctium lappa 42 Lovage Levisticum officinale 114 Growing herbs 8 MEDIEVAL HERBS 44 Lemon balm Melissa officinalis 116 Cooking with herbs 11 Horseradish Armoracia rusticana 46 Mint Mentha 118 A short history of herbs 12 Tarragon Artemisia dracunculus 48 Bergamot Monarda didyma 121 Orache Atriplex hortensis 50 Sweet cicely Myrrhis odorata 124 EDIBLE HERB FLOWERS 52 SEASONAL HERBS 126 ROMAN HERBS 18 Borage Borago officinalis 60 ABOVE: The flowers of the garden Myrtle Myrtus communis 129 Ground elder Aegopodium podagraria 20 nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) have Pot marigold Calendula officinalis 63 a peppery taste and can be used as a Basil Ocimum basilicum 131 Garlic Allium sativum 23 substitute for capers. Caraway Carum carvi 66 Marjoram Origanum majorana 134 Chives Allium schoenoprasum 26 Chamomile Chamaemelum nobile Oregano Origanum vulgare 136 Savory Satureja montana and S. hortensis 180 Lemon verbena Aloysia citrodora 29 formerly Anthemis nobilis 68 HERBES PROVENÇ ALES 138 CUPS 182 HERBS AT NIGHT 31 Good King Henry Chenopodium bonus-henricus 71 Lemon-scented geranium Pelargonium crispum 140 Dandelion Taraxacum officinale agg. 188 Dill Anethum graveolens 33 MORE THAN GREEN LEAVES 73 Perilla Perilla frutescens 142 Thyme Thymus 191 Angelica Angelica archangelica 35 Cilantro Coriandrum sativum 76 Vietnamese cilantro Persicaria odorata Lime Tilia cordata 195 FINES HERBES 38 Saffron crocus Crocus sativus 78 (syn. Polygonum odorata) 144 Fenugreek Trigonella foenum-graecum 198 Cumin Cuminum cyminum 80 Parsley Petroselinum crispum 145 Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus 200 Turmeric Curcuma longa 82 VICTORIAN HERBS 147 PROPAGATION 202 Lemongrass Cymbopogon citratus 85 Anise Pimpinella anisum 150 Nettle Urtica dioica 206 Salad arugula Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa 88 Purslane Portulaca oleracea 152 Ver vain Verbena officinalis 208 Eryngo Eryngium maritimum and E. foetidum 90 Roses Rosa 155 Sweet violet Viola odorata 210 Fennel Foeniculum vulgare 92 Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis 160 Ginger Zingiber officinale 213 Sweet woodruff Galium odoratum 95 VITAMINS AND MINERALS 164 HERB FLAVORS 216 Hyssop Hyssopus officinalis 97 Sorrel Rumex acetosa; also R. scutatus 168 THE BOUQUET GARNI 99 Sage Salvia officinalis 170 Juniper Juniperus communis 102 Bibliography 220 Elder Sambucus nigra 174 Index 221 Salad burnet Sanguisorba minor LEFT: Cumin (Cuminum cyminum) is one of many herbs that are prized for their seeds, which are used in both food and medicine. (formerly Poterium sanguisorba) 178 Picture credits 224 INTRODUCTION GROWING HERBS A GUIDE TO HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE he first foray intoHerbs for the Gourmet are excellent short-term plants for new gardens: Cover seeds with T Gardener will reveal beautiful botanical allow the more expensive shrubs and perennials ach herb description includes brief growing top, loose soil illustrations of 60 herbs, all of which were drawn by space to develop, and while they are doing this, Einstructions. Outlined on the following pages Scatter the seeds artists to aid identification. Herbs are ideal plants infill with the grays, greens, and scents of annual is more detailed information that will increase your Add another for all levels of gardeners and cooks. Many herbs are and perennial herbs. chances of success. layer of compost so easy to grow that the beginner gains confidence, The properties that herbs bring to food their growing skills promoted by the taste of are those of fresh taste, fragrance, and RAISING FROM SEEDS Firm down fibrous potting home-grown flavors. Conversely the gourmet cook aroma. The journey to the table just Many herb seeds will self-set when they fall from compost to make may find themselves drawn to gardening. For the requires someone armed with a the plant if the earth is firm and they are just a solid base ABOVE: Setting herb seeds to grow in tray. experienced gardener, the palette of the colors and sharp thumbnail or scissors to covered lightly with soil or leaves. Replicate this scents of herbs means that their use extends beyond forage the herbs for gourmet in the ground by forking the soil over, then the herb plot into borders, lawns, and pots. Herbs rather than gourmand use. gently pressing the soil down and raking the when it comes to potting on. Label the seed tray The subtle difference between surface flat. Water so that the soil is moist. with the name of the herb sown, since it is easy to gourmet and gourmand can be Decide whether to sow in rows or scatter sow get trays mixed up. counted in calories, the latter and cover seeds. Lastly, cover with dry compost Germination can vary, and some seeds come comes to play when you fold or soil because this seals in the moisture under up more reliable and more quickly than others. herbs into cream, butter, and the seeds and avoids unnecessary watering. Some need the warmth of a sunny windowsill or seriously rich sauces. When using a seed tray, start by filling it with propagator to germinate, while others will be perfectly Rather than trying to group three-quarters of seed or fibrous potting compost. happy on the shelf of a cool glasshouse or in a cold them by use, flavor, or family, Then firm down, add more compost, water, sow frame. Some seeds, especially if they are old, may they are listed in this book by seeds, and cover with the remaining compost. Such show a low rate of germination. On sprouting, the their Latin names in alphabetical careful preparation makes it much easier for the first seed leaves are soon followed by the first and order. The herbs are tiny seed root to make its first foray into the second “rough” leaf stages. At this stage, thin the interleaved with feature growing medium before unfurling its first seed crop, removing all the weakest seedlings and spreads on cooking, salads, leaves. If the seed bed is poorly prepared, the seed’s any that you do not need, in order to prevent and flowers, not forgetting initial root may waste precious resources in gaining overcrowding. This is the best time to transplant the a short history of herbs. a secure foothold, resulting in weak top growth. seedlings into individual pots before growing them Seeds should be covered by their own depth in on and eventually planting them into their final soil, so very fine seeds should have almost no soil positions. The thinned seedlings do not have to be LEFT: Three widely used culinary Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, cover. It is important to distribute them evenly wasted: they can be eaten as a salad or garnish. Rosmarinus officinalis, sage, because crowded seedlings will be liable to fungal If sowing into gravel or a wall, find crevices Salvia officinalis, and thyme, Thymus vulgaris. infection (damping off ) and difficult to manage where moisture will be retained. If building a 8 HERBS FOR THE GOURMET GARDENER GROWING HERBS 9 drystone wall, set the stones to slope upward on in which you choose to plant your herbs, give them a Large and vigorous annual herbs, such as angelica, in a mixed outer hedge. For topiary, many herbs the outside to encourage the rain to run back into head start by creating a planting hole filled with good lovage, and sweet cicely, tend to like a relatively tolerate clipping into a simple ball or more exotic the wall to the herb roots, rather than just washing fibrous compost. A generous quantity of horticultural moist but well-drained soil. Make a virtue of this shapes (see p.108). Regular clipping is essential the foliage. If raising in a seed box you might also grit dug into the soil will also help to improve by having a corner of “jungle herbs.” Bergamot and to keep the hedges or topiary in good shape. consider microsalads, i.e. sowing densely and cutting drainage, which most herbs appreciate. Altogether, mint also thrive with good levels of soil moisture. If you are prepared to live with a gappy hedge at first and second rough leaf stage. You need a great this creates a healthier root run for surviving the two for the first two or three years, young one- or deal more seed but the resulting “mustard and cress” extremes of drought and waterlogging.