for the Gourmet Gardener A Practical Resource from the Garden to the Table By Caroline Holmes

The rise of the slow food movement the realms of both the garden and the and the return to home gardens mean kitchen, addressing the cultivation, cooks are donning gardening gloves storage, and preparation of more than as often as oven mitts. Modern cook- sixty herbs. Practical growing tips, ing is heading back to its , with fascinating histories, nutritional infor- home cooks embracing local ingredi- mation, and classic recipes appear ents and down-to-earth recipes. With alongside botanical illustrations more and more of us discovering the drawn from the Royal Horticultural delight of preparing and eating fresh- Society’s cherished collection. With ly harvested food, Herbs for the Gour- both familiar varieties and novel op- met Gardener is the indispensable tions, Herbs for the Gourmet Gardener guide to what to grow, cook, and eat. will inspire you to create a world of A feast for the eyes and the table, new shapes, colors, and . this user-friendly resource traverses

Publication date For a review copy or other To place orders in the United September 22, 2014 publicity inquiries, please States or Canada, please contact: contact your local University $25.00, cloth Lauren Salas of Chicago Press sales 978-0-226-17283-5 Promotions Manager representative or contact the 224 pages University of Chicago Press University of Chicago Press [email protected] by phone at 1-800-621-2736. 200 color plates, 6 x 9 773-702-0890

Contents CONTAINERS 104 Sweet bay 106

TOPIARY 108 How to use this book 6 cerefolium 40 Lavender angustifolia 110 Introduction 7 Greater burdock Arctium lappa 42 Levisticum officinale 114 Growing herbs 8 MEDIEVAL HERBS 44 balm Melissa 116 with herbs 11 Armoracia rusticana 46 Mint 118 A short history of herbs 12 dracunculus 48 Bergamot 121 Orache hortensis 50 Sweet Myrrhis odorata 124 EDIBLE 52 SEASONAL HERBS 126 ROMAN HERBS 18 Borago officinalis 60 Above: The flowers of the garden Myrtle Myrtus communis 129 Ground elder podagraria 20 nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) have Pot marigold officinalis 63 a peppery and can be used as a Ocimum basilicum 131 Allium sativum 23 substitute for . Carum carvi 66 majorana 134 Allium schoenoprasum 26 Chamaemelum nobile Origanum vulgare 136 Savory montana and S. hortensis 180 Lemon citrodora 29 formerly Anthemis nobilis 68 HERBEs PROVENÇ ALES 138 CUPs 182 HERBS AT NIGHT 31 Good King Henry Chenopodium bonus-henricus 71 Lemon-scented geranium Pelargonium crispum 140 Dandelion Taraxacum officinale agg. 188 Anethum graveolens 33 MORE THAN 73 142 191 35 Cilantro Coriandrum sativum 76 Vietnamese cilantro odorata Lime Tilia cordata 195 38 crocus Crocus sativus 78 (syn. odorata) 144 Trigonella foenum-graecum 198 Cuminum cyminum 80 Petroselinum crispum 145 Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus 200 Curcuma longa 82 VICTORIAN HERBS 147 PROPAGATION 202 Lemongrass citratus 85 Pimpinella anisum 150 Nettle Urtica dioica 206 arugula Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa 88 Purslane oleracea 152 Ver vain 208 Eryngo Eryngium maritimum and E. foetidum 90 Roses Rosa 155 Sweet violet Viola odorata 210 Foeniculum vulgare 92 Rosmarinus officinalis 160 Zingiber officinale 213 Sweet woodruff odoratum 95 AND MINERALS 164 HERB FLAVOrS 216 Hyssop officinalis 97 Rumex acetosa; also R. scutatus 168 the 99 Sage 170 Juniperus communis 102 Bibliography 220 Elder nigra 174 Index 221 Salad burnet Sanguisorba minor Left: Cumin (Cuminum cyminum) is one of many herbs that are prized for their , which are used in both food and medicine. (formerly Poterium sanguisorba) 178 Picture credits 224 Introduction GROWING HERBS

A guide to how, when, and where

he first foray intoHerbs for the Gourmet are excellent short-term for new gardens: Cover seeds with T Gardener will reveal beautiful botanical allow the more expensive and perennials ach herb description includes brief growing top, loose soil illustrations of 60 herbs, all of which were drawn by space to develop, and while they are doing this, Einstructions. Outlined on the following pages Scatter the seeds artists to aid identification. Herbs are ideal plants infill with the grays, , and scents of annual is more detailed information that will increase your Add another for all levels of gardeners and cooks. Many herbs are and perennial herbs. chances of success. layer of compost so easy to grow that the beginner gains confidence, The properties that herbs bring to food

their growing skills promoted by the taste of are those of fresh taste, fragrance, and Raising from Seeds Firm down fibrous potting home-grown flavors. Conversely the gourmet cook aroma. The journey to the table just Many herb seeds will self-set when they fall from compost to make may find themselves drawn to gardening. For the requires someone armed with a the if the earth is firm and they are just a solid base Above: Setting herb seeds to grow in tray. experienced gardener, the palette of the colors and sharp thumbnail or scissors to covered lightly with soil or leaves. Replicate this scents of herbs means that their use extends beyond forage for gourmet in the ground by forking the soil over, then the herb plot into borders, lawns, and pots. Herbs rather than gourmand use. gently pressing the soil down and raking the when it comes to potting on. Label the tray The subtle difference between surface flat. Water so that the soil is moist. with the name of the herb sown, since it is easy to gourmet and gourmand can be Decide whether to sow in rows or scatter sow get trays mixed up. counted in calories, the latter and cover seeds. Lastly, cover with dry compost can vary, and some seeds come comes to play when you fold or soil because this seals in the moisture under up more reliable and more quickly than others. herbs into cream, butter, and the seeds and avoids unnecessary watering. Some need the warmth of a sunny windowsill or seriously rich . When using a seed tray, start by filling it with propagator to germinate, while others will be perfectly Rather than trying to group three-quarters of seed or fibrous potting compost. happy on the shelf of a cool glasshouse or in a cold them by use, flavor, or , Then firm down, add more compost, water, sow frame. Some seeds, especially if they are old, may they are listed in this book by seeds, and cover with the remaining compost. Such show a low rate of germination. On sprouting, the their Latin names in alphabetical careful preparation makes it much easier for the first seed leaves are soon followed by the first and order. The herbs are tiny seed to make its first foray into the second “rough” stages. At this stage, thin the interleaved with feature growing medium before unfurling its first seed crop, removing all the weakest seedlings and spreads on cooking, , leaves. If the seed bed is poorly prepared, the seed’s any that you do not need, in order to prevent and flowers, not forgetting initial root may waste precious resources in gaining overcrowding. This is the best time to transplant the a short history of herbs. a secure foothold, resulting in weak top growth. seedlings into individual pots before growing them Seeds should be covered by their own depth in on and eventually planting them into their final soil, so very fine seeds should have almost no soil positions. The thinned seedlings do not have to be left: Three widely used culinary Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, cover. It is important to distribute them evenly wasted: they can be eaten as a salad or garnish. Rosmarinus officinalis, sage, because crowded seedlings will be liable to fungal If sowing into gravel or a wall, find crevices Salvia officinalis, and thyme, Thymus vulgaris. infection (damping off ) and difficult to manage where moisture will be retained. If building a

8 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Growing herbs 9 drystone wall, set the stones to slope upward on in which you choose to plant your herbs, give them a Large and vigorous annual herbs, such as angelica, in a mixed outer hedge. For topiary, many herbs the outside to encourage the rain to run back into head start by creating a planting hole filled with good lovage, and sweet cicely, tend to like a relatively tolerate clipping into a simple ball or more exotic the wall to the herb roots, rather than just washing fibrous compost. A generous quantity of horticultural moist but well-drained soil. Make a virtue of this shapes (see p.108). Regular clipping is essential the foliage. If raising in a seed box you might also grit dug into the soil will also help to improve by having a corner of “jungle herbs.” Bergamot and to keep the hedges or topiary in good shape. consider microsalads, i.e. sowing densely and drainage, which most herbs appreciate. Altogether, mint also thrive with good levels of soil moisture. If you are prepared to live with a gappy hedge at first and second rough leaf stage. You need a great this creates a healthier root run for surviving the two for the first two or three years, young one- or deal more seed but the resulting “ and cress” extremes of drought and waterlogging. Hedging and topiary herbs two-year plants will establish better but while you pickings are classed as superfoods. Ideal for formal edible designs, any of the following wait, interplant the spaces with annuals or biennials. Many annual herbs are available by mail order as Where to grow herbs would be suitable grown as hedging or Classed by its flowers, the largest “herb” in this plug plants. If space and time are at a premium this The general rule is a sunny, sheltered spot because topiary: hyssop, lavender, myrtle, and dwarf book is Tilia cordata, the lime or linden tree. Apart is an excellent way of stocking up your supplies. that is what most herbs like best and it also captures rosemary for low hedges; bay, myrtle, and rosemary from in grand avenues, a single specimen or row in Many cultivated varieties of herbs () are their wonderful fragrances. The cook’s essential and provide an evergreen backdrop perfect for larger a smaller space could be pleached (see p.197). not available as seed. In these cases, only a rooted favorite herbs need to be grown near the kitchen hedges; while bay, elder, and roses could be planted cutting, offshoot, or division will guarantee that the door, either in the ground or in tubs, since only a Edging herbs characteristics of the parent herb are propagated dedicated enthusiast goes out by flashlight to gather There are soft, cushion-forming herbs that will edge (see Propagation, p.202). in fresh herbs from the garden. Large and less and spill over paths or gravel. Many will also frequently used herbs can be dotted about the provide fresh spring leaf color and dried Planting herbs garden or used to form a decorative herb garden. heads through the winter. For long-term interest, Most of the herbs profiled in this book are temperate A sunny site is defined as receiving seven or plant perennials; for seasonal interest, plant hardy and are best planted in the spring. Seek out more hours of sun per day, weather permitting. annuals. Good perennials include chives, dwarf specialist growers for maximum choice. Apart from Some herbs such as garlic and chives like their tops hyssop (Hyssopus aristatus), oregano, sage, winter the Internet, one of the best ways to peruse the market in the sun but their roots in moisture-retentive soil. savory, and thyme. The tidiest annual is bush basil, is to go to a major gardening or flower show. The “Mediterranean” herbs such as basil, hyssop, but it needs a warm climate to grow well outdoors. When buying, look for healthy, disease-free marjoram, oregano, savory, and thyme as well as herbs and check that they are not root-bound, i.e. nasturtiums, will thrive in hot, dry summers. This Tender herbs the roots are bursting out of the pot. If you do buy a will be essential if you want to grow a clipped These are typically herbs from subtropical and herb plant like this, take it out of the pot and gently myrtle or rosemary hedge. tropical regions, requiring generally warmer ease the roots apart, then trim back to healthy root Shady sites are defined as those not exposed to temperatures and freedom from all frost. Examples nodes. This encourages the herb to create a new midday sun. Receiving no more than four hours’ include cumin, fenugreek, ginger, lemongrass, efficient root system. Soak any new herbs for up to sunshine per day, this can be helpful with lemon verbena, scented geraniums, turmeric, and an hour in a bucket of water (preferably of collected semitender shrubs like bay and possibly myrtle, Vietnamese cilantro. This may well mean growing rainwater) before planting. although the latter flowers best in a sunny location. under glass in cooler temperate climates. Their Nutrients and water are drawn from the soil by Other shade-loving herbs include mint, sorrel, individual requirements are described under their the hairs on a root. Fibrous soil or potting compost sweet cicely, and sweet woodruff. Shade from trees separate entries. encourages their development and shortens the time is usually better than shade from buildings because Below: Although this is a fig tree, the principles of encouraging a straight trunk and supporting it, can equally be applied to bay, for a herb to establish itself. So whatever the ground it allows water to percolate down to the ground. myrtle, rosemary, and even scented geraniums.

10 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Growing herbs 11 ROMAN HERBS Across the Roman Empire, their citizens grew and ate herbs from the shores of the Mediterranean to Tasting notes those of the North Sea as well as North and Classical roots and bacchanalian bounty —the seeds were as important as the leaves, Culinary herbs mentioned roots, and flowers. Roman courtyard gardens have by Pliny the Elder

been recreated in and the United States in a Half of the herbs in this book appear in typical arrangement of rectangular beds, sometimes Pliny’s Historia Naturalis, pictured below. Many have uses beyond the kitchen but including a vine-covered outdoor triclinium. This there are some surprising omissions from is effectively three sloping stone couches faced in his list which include the following: concrete that are arranged to form three sides of a Culinary Aniseed, basil, chervil, chives, square. Cushions and fabrics were laid out on the cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, couches for the comfort of the prone diners and lovage, marjoram, mint, myrtle, often a small ledge was created around the inner edge parsley, purslane, arugula, for a glass of wine. The food would be laid out on a saffron, sorrel, and thyme. Also bay, hyssop, and rose (only for dining board that could be carried to the center for wine and medicinal purposes) each course. In larger gardens this central area might be a water feature on which baskets of food would be Medicinal Cumin, orache, rosemary, and violet. The following were also floated from one diner to another—the grandest used medicinally: aniseed, being the Canopus at Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli. basil, chervil, cilantro, dill, The Roman gastronomer Apicius wroteDe Re fennel, garlic, lovage, myrtle, parsley, purslane, arugula, Coquinaria (On Cookery), which is divided into saffron, and sorrel 10 books that include many herbs. Under his instruction, “field herbs” could be served raw, with Wine Juniper, lavender, and sage he excesses of Roman feasts are recorded above: The Roses of Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema. broth, oil, and , or as a cooked dish by adding The Egyptians introduced the Romans to roses, Cleopatra had in contemporary writings and colorfully the sails of her barge washed in rose water, while the Romans cumin seeds. He viewed spiced , as well as the T had them rained on banqueters. portrayed in paintings such as The Roses of usual aromatic herb seeds, as an elixir for life. He Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema. The recommended parsley seeds as a substitute for those Emperor Nero, who reigned from AD 54–68, with roses. One fateful night he and his guests were of lovage and his recipes also included seeds of started the fashion for strewing rose across all so intoxicated that the order to stop the gentle marjoram, arugula, and thyme. Both bay and myrtle the floor of his banqueting hall; further petals were rain of rose petals was never given. Many slumped berries were also used in sauces and forcemeats. The rained gently down from the ceiling during the and slumbering inebriates simply suffocated under a recipes for mortaria are preparations of fresh herb course of the evening. The scent was believed to deep blanket of petals. The extravagance was nearly leaves pounded in a mortar such as cilantro, fennel, enhance enjoyment and to mask the of wine in matched by Alma-Tadema when he had regular lovage, and mint, often with and vinegar or the guests’ hair. During his four-year reign in the supplies of rose petals sent from the French Riviera broth. Although harder work, pounding herbs, early 3rd century, the Emperor Heliogabalus (or during the winter of 1887/88 so that he could paint rather than processing them, does create a more Elagabalus) took excess to new heights, not least the event in orgiastic detail. aromatic taste.

18 19 Cilantro a contrasting and cooling flavor as side dishes for ll early records relate to seeds not hot spicy foods. In Indian recipes, hara dhaniya leaves, which, once dried, could be stored A Tasting notes C oriandrum sativum and kothmir are the terms used for fresh leaves. for year-round use and were easily carried by Slice tomatoes with red bell peppers and cilantro travelers. Fresh leaves in Britain were only Cilantro varieties to try leaves served in plain with or without available to home gardeners and were praised for their leaves th Common names: Coriander, cilantro, Chinese garlic. Excellent as a “bite” in green salads or by Beeton during the 19 century. The name The distinctive taste of cilantro is well parsley, Indian parsley added to guacamole or houmous. Add to cold “cilantro” was originally introduced by Hispanic known but it varies. The young top leaves chicken. Warming and cilantro leaf communities into the United States while at the are more strongly aromatic. As leaves Type: Annual mature, the texture changes and when tastes and looks good. same time better leaf-forming varieties became mixed with stems will impart their flavor Climate: Half-hardy, unheated glasshouse, The Indian words for whole and ground available. A distillery in Cornwall, England, now in cooking. The seeds must always be fully mild winter coriander seeds are dhania, sabut, and pisa. Apart produces Tarquin’s , which boasts an array of ripe or they will have a fetid aftertaste. from curries, the seeds can be added herbs among which they promote “… also Why not try these: Size: 18–35in (45–90cm) to sweet pie toppings along with finely grated lemon-sherberty coriander seeds from , “Calypso” British bred. Seed producers Origin: Western Mediterranean orange peel. When harvesting is complete, pull up rather than the hot and spicy Moroccan variety." claim that it can be cut back three times and continue to the plants and cut off the small roots to chop into Other names such as Chinese parsley and Indian History: There is evidence dating back to the late supply a succession of leaves and sauces. parsley are indicative of the popularity of its leaves Bronze Age (about 2000 BC) that cilantro was as well as being slow to bolt. in Asian cooking. one of the first flavoring herbs to be introduced “Confetti” Fine, feathery-leaved with a Seed varieties, as opposed to those grown for from the Mediterranean into Britain. The good flavor. It can be sown leaf production, can be sown as an annual plant successionally into September. name is said to derive from the Arabic koris among perennials. Their white umbelliferous It is also recommended for or “bed bugs.” If the seeds are harvested flowers are tinged with pink and create a splendid windowsill pots. too early or too green they do have a massed effect until seed formation. The flowers “Leisure” Popular for quantity as it distinctively fetid smell. However, allowed become luminescent by moonlight so are ideal for is slow to bolt. It has a to fully ripen they become aromatic and good flavor and its flowers, the night garden. To create an ornamental haze of orange scented. when they come, are very greens and good aroma, mix the seeds with those attractive. Cultivation: Scatter sow directly from of caraway and chervil, then scatter sow and grow “Santo” Also slow to bolt. Has high spring onward, thinning to 8–12in in blocks. Alternatively, mix with carrot seeds to leaf production and rapidly spacings. Late summer sowings will provide help deter carrot root fly. Although cilantro is still a reaches maturity. In the right pickings until the first frosts especially in a good leaf variety, the choice has widened. That said, conditions it takes 55 days cold frame or with some protection. during periods of intense dry heat all varieties will from sowing to harvest. run to seed very quickly. “Slobolt” Has the most distinctly Storage: Harvest seeds when paper-dry and pungent flavor that is brown, then store in airtight jars. Freeze popular for Chinese, Thai, LEFT: It is worth growing whole leaves and break off as required. separate plants for seed and Mexican cooking. It is and leaf to ensure plentiful slow to bolt. Preparation: The distinctively aromatic supplies of both. The seed-bearing crop can be leaves and young stems of cilantro add sown in among flowers.

76 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Cilantro 77 Orache yll in The Gardener’s Labyrinth (1577) Hsuggested sowing in a “wel dressed and A triplex hortensis dunged earth” in December. If the soil is not frozen it would be interesting to experiment. Orache lost its popularity in Europe with the introduction Common names: Orache, mountain , of spinach in the 17th century. arrach The white-and-pale green-leaved varieties are the more tender, but for ornamental effect Type: Annual look for red- or pink-tinged varieties, such Climate: Hardy, cold winter as var. rubra. Pinch out the tops to stop flowering. In dry weather, orache bolts 1 Size: 24in–3 ⁄2ft (60cm–1m) rapidly and has an unpleasant taste. If you Origin: Asia only want occasional pickings, grow as colorful border plants in rich soil and harvest fresh

below: Apart from young leaves. green there are striking There are closely related coastal varieties red forms, such as History: The Romans noted that only cultivated the deep red var. rubra, varieties should be eaten. According to Pliny, wild that still grow wild in the UK, especially which can be grown among flowers. Coastal forms could cause “dropsy, jaundice, and pallor.” southwest Scotland, such as the spear or varieties are more halberd-leaved orache, A. prostrata syn. succulent. The leaves were cooked with meat and eaten raw. A. hastata; frosted orache, A. laciniata; and Cultivation: Although tolerant of both high Babbingtons orache, A. glabriuscula. They salinity and alkalinity, to ensure are found on and above the high tide line, succulent leaves, sow direct typically in decomposing seaweed bands— into a rich moisture-retentive replicating this might prove challenging if you soil from spring onward, thinning live inland. The young leaves are succulent and along drills spaced at 24in. This can salty, hence their American name of sea be repeated until late summer. purslane, and are at their crunchy best at first and

Storage: It is not worth storing orache; just second rough leaf stage. Older leaves can be save seeds for next year’s crop. stripped from the stems and treated like spinach. Mark Williams of Galloway Wild Preparation: Orache is traditionally cooked Foods recommends mixing them with with sorrel to counteract its acidity, and they smoked haddock in a tart, wilted over are useful in combination for white sauces served monkfish, and with wild mushrooms. Away with fish. If tender, use orache leaves (var. from the coast, A. patula is known in Scotland rubra) for a more decorative dish. Use only fresh as common or inland orache. ABOVE: The orache plant goes to seed quite readily. Its seeds should be saved for the next crop, air dried, and stored in a young leaves for salads. paper bag in a cool, dry place.

50 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener ORACHE 51 Lavender Climate: Hardy, average winter he Romans used lavender to deter bed bugs. sweetened with lavender sugar before going to his first 1 English lavender started to be developed wife, Josephine. In the past L. angustifolia has been Size: 19 ⁄2–40in (50–100cm) T L avandula angustifolia commercially in the 17th century, at the same time as known as L. vera and L. officinalis, all more commonly Origin: Atlantic Islands, Mediterranean plants were taken to America, where the Quakers called Old English Lavender. The oils and flowers farmed lavender and other herbs. The English are used to scent soaps, bags, and . History: The Greeks named it Nardus, believing Common names: Lavender, English lavender, Romantic poet John Keats poetically captured the it came from the Syrian city of Naarda, and it true lavender—there are myriad cultivars of scent and blue flowers with the joy of deep sleep in is one of the plants also known as Spikenard. the old English variety, , clean sheets: “And still she slept an azure-lidded sleep, The Egyptians used it for mummification and ranging in size and flower color. There are In blanched linen, smooth and lavender.” Old writers . Lavandula is derived from the Latin Tasting notes celebrated names such as “Hidcote,” “Hidcote praise its virtues as a decorative plant for the garden as lavare meaning “to wash.” Not only did the oils Pink,” and “Munstead.” well as attracting bees and smelling sweet. Historical in lavender add fragrance to the wash, but they Lavender-scented sugar recipes for distillation, oils, and comfits were intended Type: Evergreen are also an repellent. Lavender-scented sugar is an easy way of for medicinal use. On a culinary note, Napoleon infusing a perfumed tone into . Cultivation: Lavender can be raised from seed would drink a hot cocktail of coffee and hot chocolate but sometimes does not come true to type. Preparation time: 5 minutes, plus 1–2 weeks for standing Sow seeds in spring, direct into the soil or seed Serves: makes 10oz (280g) Kilner jar 1 boxes, then thin or transplant to 12–19 ⁄2in apart. Alternatively buy named varieties from You will need: a specialist nursery. • 2oz (55g) lavender flowerheads

Storage: Lavender leaves and flowers dry • 8oz (225g) superfine sugar, plus some extra excellently. Dry in sugar (see box) or store in an for topping up

airtight can or jar away from the light. Flowerheads Mix the lavender flowerheads with the sugar. can be infused in oil or vinegar (see p.75). Select a dry glass jar and simply layer the Preparation: The leaves can be used as a flowers and sugar alternately.

substitute for rosemary when cooking lamb Cover tightly and leave in a warm room (not with garlic. Use both leaves and flowers in ice in full sun) for 1–2 weeks, occasionally giving the jar a shake. cream, sorbets, and cookies. Chop finely and add to marzipan candy. The flowers will give Before using, sift the sugar, then return the a highly scented flavor. A tisane of lavender flowerheads, and top up with more sugar. flowers is said to ease headaches, insomnia, and gum problems.

left: The lavender-covered hillsides of Provence in are seas Above: The taste of lavender has a and fragrance that matches of purple when in flower and the heady scent is an integral part Crane’s portrayal of Perdita in A Winter’s Tale. Lavender flowers on of the local cuisine. cakes and desserts can make an equally dramatic stance.

110 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener LavendEr 111 As a native of Mediterranean hillsides, lavenders like sunny, well-drained sites and calcareous soil. In Tasting notes England, the low rainfall of Norfolk seems to meet Lavender varieties to try these requirements, assisting with the successful

The leaves and flowers of the lavenders listed below can be used in cooking, for both their scent and flavor. production of commercial lavender. However, lavenders do not like summer humidity, extreme L. angustifolia Traditional gray-green bush with “Loddon Pink” Soft pink flowers, growing winter cold, or winter damp, which can make rich lavender-blue flowers. Leaves to 18in, drought hardy, good growing lavender difficult in some areas. 3 evergreen in warm winters, foliage for hedges. Space at 12–15 ⁄4in. TheL. angustifolia forms are the best for culinary and flowers highly aromatic, Introduced in the 1950s. growing up to 4ft. purposes and can be grown as a low hedge or path Fields of lavender “Munstead” Introduced in 1902 and named edging in a sunny position. There are many more “Alba” Smaller lavender with gray-white for the Munstead wood Between 1946 and 1989 Deeside Lavender leaves and white flowers. Sweetly gardens of Miss Gertrude decorative but they are neither as aromatic, could boast that it had the most northerly fragrant but more tender, Jekyll who made quantities nor suitable for consumption. If you want to ensure lavender fields in the world. They were planted growing to 24 x 24in. of pot-pourri from her the variety, propagate from tip or heel cuttings, and developed on two acres in Banchory, scented roses and lavender in northeast Scotland, by Andrew Inkster. Inkster “Blue Ice” The flowers appear to be frosted which will root well. The former in early summer the early 20th century. Large, was a chemist and entrepreneur. He established with their pale mauve florets blue-lilac flowers contrast and the latter in early fall. Lightly prune that the light, sandy soils of Deeside—near peeping out from woolly . with small leaves. Flowers the bushes as soon as the flowers the River Dee in Aberdeenshire—probably in Ideal for a white or night garden. good for lavender sugar. start to fade, then trim back conjunction with the very long summer days, 1 Grows to 24 x 29 ⁄2in. Grows 24 x 24in. produced a lavender oil that was superior in again in early spring, being careful quality to other commercial extractors, but L.a. “Elizabeth” The dark lavender-purple florets L.× intermedia Also known as Bud French not to prune into old wood yielded less in quantity. have a royal blue appearance, “Grosso” Lavender—popular on both sometimes described as “shocking because lavenders do not reshoot sides of the Atlantic with a In its heyday, over 25,000 visitors a year violet,” are very fragrant, on readily from the bare stems. naturally globular habit; trim flocked to walk along Scottish fields strong stems set against evergreen after flowering and then in Lavender will also tolerate air of purple lavender mirroring those silvery foliage appearing in late spring for shape. Flower pollution, but be careful to of Provence. The British National summer. Good for hedges, as a spikes unusually plump. Both Collection of Lavenders is held at specimen, or clipped into a cone. clean the leaves and leaves and flowers are highly the University Botanic Gardens, Grows 18 x 24in. flowers of plants growing aromatic. Good for topiary, Cambridge; in their of spot planting, and containers. in polluted areas before The Lavandula, its former “Hidcote” Deep purple flowers; as the 1 1 Grows to 18–29 ⁄2in x 18–29 ⁄2in. Director Tim Upson and Susyn name suggests, it is taller than consumption. Lavender and Andrews identified a of the original compact “Hidcote”; roses grown together evoke L.× intermedia Old-fashioned, tall elegant lavender that is specific to Banchory, also there is the supposedly “Seal” lavender; strong, long stems the traditional English which had been developed improved “Hidcote Superior,” and pale well-scented garden. commercially by Inkster. In 2001, 1 1 growing to over 3 ⁄4 x 3 ⁄4ft. lavender flowers. Ideal as a an especially hardy lavender from Ensure you keep it well pruned Need hi res and specimen or for tubs and pots. cutout Banchory was named for Inkster’s to stop it becoming woody. Grows to 35 x 35in. Left: Lavandula angustifolia is the old home, Lavandula “Torramhor.” traditional highly fragrant lavender and parent of many cultivars. The leaves infuse an aromatic, summer taste into barbecues or cookies.

112 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener LavendEr 113 to hold the flower stem and then gently pinch Below: Marigold petals, such as the pictured Calendula EDIBLE HERB FLOWERS officinalis, can be used to run red gold through salads, the center and lift the flower off. rice, and dishes, imparting a subtle, herby flavor. One time-consuming suggestion is to put the A bouquet garni of blossoms flowers in ice cubes. To do this effectively, you need to half fill the sections of an ice cube tray with here are Chinese recipes for flowers as food water and allow each flower to float on top Tdating back to 3000 BC. Roman cooks and One do and one don’t and place in the freezer. Once the cubes have writers such as Apicius used rose petals, lavender started to freeze, top up with water and freeze Do Pick the flowers early when the florets, and violets. Herb flower shapes and colors dew has dried but before the bees again. That way you achieve a centrally placed give texture and fragrance to the garden and to start to forage. Freshly picked, they flower. They can also be crystallized for cakes food. Edible flowers can be arranged in an “ice” can be stored in an airtight plastic (see box on p.59). container in a cool place until plate on which you serve cold food and this is a needed. good way of keeping the dish cool and making it Calendula Don’t Avoid adding flowers to the salad attractive. Line a dish with water and submerge This is a herb defined by its flowers. The whole before dressing it, as the oils and all or any of the herb flowers listed, freeze until spoil their bloom; sprinkle marigold flowerhead has been used as a poor thoroughly frozen to preserve, then remove from them over at the last moment. man’s saffron and you are better off using turmeric the freezer and arrange on food just before serving. or the real thing. However, the golden petals sprinkled through salads make great eye candy. Basil Bergamot They can also be baked in bread. The flower colors range from white to striated The flowers can be gently infused in milk where purple, depending on the variety. They also have they will impart a lightly scented orange flavor. Chamomile more intense flavors than the leaves. Slice large Sprinkle over fruit salads. The flowers are the only culinary part of this herb, tomatoes or put cherry tomatoes in a ramekin, noted especially for their use in relaxing tisanes. then cover with basil flowers and . Bake Borage in a hot oven for 10 minutes to infuse flavors. Its sky-blue star flowers with fine black centers Chives Also good when crystallized (see box on p.59). make them one of the prettiest to use. Flowering The best tastingAllium flowers are those of sprigs can be added to gin and tonic or pitchers of chives, whether purple, pink, or white with tiny Pimms, sparkling elderflower, or simply water. firm opalescent at their centers. If you want to use the flowers in green or Firmly holding the flowerhead in your hand, fruit salads, they taste best if you remove the twist at the base and the florets will all separate. hairy sepals, which come away easily when the Sprinkle in salads for a delicious mild crunchy flower is ready. The best way to achieve this is scallion taste. Coriander Seeds Pick when young. You can tell at a glance if The underlying orange peel taste of the seeds is they are passed their best as the central florets will more distinct in the fresh creamy white flowers, Left: The influence of the Roman cook and writer Apicius have darkened in color and look shriveled, and so use them to decorate sweet orange salads or continues. This image shows a kitchen of delights featured in a 1709 version of his recipes. the taste will be harsh, dry, and hot. sauces. Also add to stir-fries.

52 53 Lemon verbena Tasting notes Growing suggestion

Aloysia citrodora Whether in the ground or a pot, make sure you Herb bread place lemon verbena so that you gently brush past it on a regular basis. The lemon scent is Herb bread can be made the same way as garlic gloriously refreshing. bread. Delicious with soup or cheese and salad. Common names: Lemon verbena, Herba Louisa

Preparation time: 10 minutes Type: Deciduous shrub Cooking time: 5–10 minutes Serves: 1–2 people Climate: Half-hardy, unheated glasshouse, similar to bay leaves. Pour boiling water over fresh

You will need: mild winter or dried leaves for a tisane. Leave to infuse into syrup to pour over fruit or add to desserts. • 1 baguette or French loaf Size: 10ft (3m) Add leaves to the base of a cake • 2 of crushed garlic (optional) Origin: Argentina and Chile mixture before baking, then peel

• ½ tsp off. Add them to a finger bowl History: 17th-century Spanish explorers introduced when eating seafood. • 4oz (100g) soft butter lemon verbena into Spain from South America Above: Once a clump of chives has flowered, harvest them and where it was named for Princess Louisa of Parma, cut them back to the base to encourage new fresh spikes. Wash • Handful of chives, coarsely chopped, plus any and use scissors for a fast preparation straight to the plate. or all of the following: chervil, fennel, lovage, hence Herba Louisa. The word Aloysia is actually a marjoram, oregano, parsley, and thyme corruption of “Louisa.”

All are rich in sulfur. Chives are a companion plant Cultivation: A tender, small deciduous tree that Preheat a conventional oven to 400°F (200°C / for , roses, and apples but should not be gas mark 6 / fan 180°C). thrives in dry warmth. Lemon verbena flowers grown with peas and beans. abundantly in regions with a Mediterranean climate. Chop the herbs and mix in the with butter. It can be grown outdoors in colder regions, where it

Chives for the young gardener Make wide diagonal cuts into the loaf and is less likely to flower. spread garlic butter evenly into each cut. Given the right conditions there can be a magic Any leftover butter can be spread along the Storage: Dry the leaves when flowering, the time endlessness to chives, which makes them the perfect top of the loaf and spread only between cuts. of their strongest aroma. plant for a child or indeed group of children to Wrap in foil and cook for 5 minutes or more. hone their horticultural skills. Just follow the Preparation: The leaves and flowers are not suitable To test whether it is done: the butter will be ABOVE: The flowers of lemon verbena are very similar to those of general sowing instructions (see p.8) straight into absorbed into the loaf and the herbs should still for consumption but are perfect for infusing a vervain but only appear in very warm, sheltered situations. Tisanes individual pots—the small shiny black seeds should be green but hot, almost falling out of the bread. sherberty-lemon flavor. Remove before serving, made from the leaves and flowers are often called lemon vervaine. be scattered over the surface and lightly covered. The pots can be kept on a windowsill for several months before needing repotting, or be grown in different dishes including any of their own. The “The only species of this genus known in Britain is A. citriodora, a garden container, or planted out in the ground. flowerheads are pretty and the individual florets … a half-hardy shrub, with panicles of small pinkish-white flowers, The young gardener can then harvest the fine are a gentle introduction to the more forceful taste and very fragrant leaves, which fall off in winter.” trimmings to add the final touches to a host of of scallions. The Ladies Companion to the Flower Garden, (1846) Mrs. Jane Loudon

28 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Lemon Verbena 29 ntroduced into England in 1784 as Verbena HERBS AT NIGHT I triphylla, it was renamed Aloysia, then , and is once more . Its common citriodora Aloysia Scent and savor by moonlight name derives from the penetrating lemon scent of its lanceolate shiny leaves that is released without crushing, and verbena-like flowers. In fact, it is the summer’s evening in the garden can be Below: Nasturtiums will scramble colorfully with a plenitude of edible source of verbena oil. Not to be mistaken for Lippia A enhanced in several ways. First, an flowers from late summer until the first frosts. graveolens, Mexican oregano, and L. micromera, area enclosed by a canopy, trees, climbers, Jamaican oregano, both tender herbs with a or a courtyard ensures that the distinctive taste of origanum. warmth lasts and contains Aloysia should be planted in a rich but light soil the fragrance from scented that is well drained, warm, and sheltered—a south- plants. The senses of sight or west-facing wall is ideal. In colder areas it will and smell work closely grow well in a pot, but keep it virtually unwatered together, whether in the after the leaves drop in fall. It thrives outdoors in fading light or by moonlight—silver, English coastal locations such as the Isle of Wight white, gray, purple, and pale pink leaves and East Anglia. The parchment-like quality of its and flowers radiate attractively. There are many herbs that will draw the eye and reward with their scent. At a distance both angelica Above: Lemon verbena is gloriously lemon scented. As you brush and burdock add texture to the night vision. past, it releases a fragrance that is perfect for a refreshing tisane. Finally, don’t forget lemongrass for its mosquito- deterring properties. trunk and branches in winter make it hard to believe that it is still alive, but stay confident and Drawing in the eye you will be rewarded by the sight of the new bright Purple sage is best planted in blocks between green buds. As the first buds start to swell in late paving, among plantings or in pots. spring, start regular watering and, if necessary, Use “Blue Ice” lavender for attractive mounds re-pot. It roots well from cuttings of young wood with gray-green to silver of the leaves and flowers, taken in early summer. Be mindful to take these adding architectural notes. Plant so that you cuttings as early as possible to give them the brush past them to release the scent. Crush leaves maximum amount of time for root development around seating as the scent deters . Highly before the fall. The newly rooted lemon scented, mint and its white variegated forms are flowers of the trailing “Moonlight” will gleam at will need protection until well established. Prune equally invaluable. Wipe wooden surfaces with night. Also beautiful in the night garden are the to shape in early summer and keep the prunings to leaves to deter flies. white-flowering forms of chives. You can snip the dry—the glorious lemon scent is wonderful about The white mottle-leaved types of nasturtium leaves and flowers of chives to sprinkle over tapas the house or on barbecues. such as “Alaska” and the pale butter-yellow or suppers.

30 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener 31 Mint took prompt action to put a stop to such attentions. She metamorphosed Menthe into Tasting notes M entha a scented herb thriving in the damp soils around the entrance of the underworld. Mint varieties to try

Cultivation: Mint is rightly classed as a thug. The distinctive taste of mint can also strike up interesting variations from fruity to confectionery, Common names: Mint sweet scents to high perfumes that match its wide selection of leaf and stem colors. Given a good, moist soil it will rampage across

Type: Herbaceous perennial your plot. However, it is an invaluable culinary M. australis Native Australian mint M. × piperita Known as lemon mint, herb. So either grow it alone in suitable conditions, has a strong f. citrata M. Eau de Cologne mint Climate: Hardy, very cold winter scent and was used for and bergamot mint. As the or lift it every other year, cut back to new tea by Aboriginal peoples. common names suggest, Size: 12–35in (30–90cm) vigorous roots, and replant. Grow mint in a large Colonial settlers used it in this cultivar is highly scented pot and submerge in soil up to just below its rim. lieu of European varieties. and perfect for sorbets and Origin: Eurasia, Africa Indian desserts. Storage: Pot up some roots for the glasshouse or M. × gracilis Known as Gingermint or History: Legend recounts that a young nymph, redmint—attractive, red- M. smithiana Red raripila mint with windowsill to have fresh leaves in winter. Dry or × Menthe, caught the eye of Pluto, the god of the tinged stems and leaves attractively purple-tinged freeze leaves before flowering. Use flowering underworld. Pluto’s jealous consort Persephone with a sweet scent, ideal ovate leaves that are sweetly stems for mint vinegar (see p.75). for sorbets. There is also scented. Good for tisanes and a yellow striated form sorbets. Attractive in salads. Preparation: Sprigs of mint can be used in “Variegata.” M. spicata Formally M. viridis, the pitchers of cold drinks, as a digestive tisane, or M. × piperita Digestive peppermint for classic mint boiled with new potatoes. The many scents of with purple-tinged , it has long, bright green mint can be infused to make a refreshing mint leaves from which oil of leaves. The variety crispa is sorbet (see p.59) and finely chopped fresh mint peppermint is extracted. more ornamental and equally useful in sauce and salads. transforms a chilled summer pea soup and M. × piperita A sweet-scented foliage provides aromatic contrast in hearty ham and “Chocolate” that literally shines in M. suaveolens Downy-leaved applemint, dried-pea soups. The classic cooling side dish for a sunny situation in as the name suggests, has a moisture-retentive soil. gentler minty, slightly fruity hot curries, Raita, combines , mint, and It is also said to be deer taste. It is preferred by many for yogurt. Added to blackcurrants after cooking, resistant. mint sauce but is too downy mint acts like a secret ingredient that magically for salads. “Variegata” has enhances the flavor of the fruit; sprinkle over a marginal white markings. salad of fresh orange slices; or add to cold chocolate mousses or ice creams.

“‘Do you mean to say,’ said my father, ‘that they really eat mint with lamb?’ I said they did, and that it was delicious. He shook his head thoughtfully. Left: All parts of mint above the ground can be used. Classic combinations are young, fresh leaves in salads and in yogurt, ‘What a funny country,’ he said.” or bruised stems for infusions and vinegars. Myself, My Two Countries, (1936) X.M. Boulestin

118 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Mint 119 int thrives in moist soil and partial shade. Two mints that are no longer used for Bergamot M The Roman poet ubliusP Ovidius Naso culinary purposes are the best for called mint the “herb of hospitality,” a perfect deterring flies and insects when M onarda didyma description for a plant that infuses refreshing eating—very important for coolness into hot or cold water. Along with this, enhancing the gourmet experience the Romans believed it increased intelligence and of meals al fresco and inside Common names: Bergamot, bee balm, stimulated the appetite. The Old Testament records where there are no fly screens. monarda, Oswego tea that tithes of mint, anise, and cumin were paid by Pennyroyal, M. pulegium, Type: Herbaceous perennial the Pharisees. The flavor of mint itself seems able appears regularly in old to metamorphose to suit its culinary host, from recipes but it is a strong Climate: Hardy, average winter British mint sauce with lamb, to peppermint tea abortifacient and has other Size: 24–59in (60–150cm) in , to Vietnamese salads. contraindications; its overwhelming peppermint Origin: scent has a detrimental effect History: The common name relates to the on the flavor of foodstuffs. Its leaves, which have the fragrance of the virtue lies instead in its deterrent value: flies , the zest of which is used simply avoid any area where pennyroyal has been to flavor Earl Grey tea. The American botanist crushed. It likes a shady moist spot. Gather some John Bartram recorded plants growing by Lake leaves and wipe them over the table or gently crush Oswego in 1744. He sent seeds to the merchant the stems before arranging them in small jars near the Philip Collinson living in London, where its food to be served. It is short lived but vigorous, low scarlet shaggy flowers soon made it a popular growing with attractive mauve flowers set against garden plant. purple-tinged green shiny leaves. The tiny leaved Cultivation: Sow the perennial herbaceous above: Bergamots are excellent for flavoring drinks—hot and Corsican mint, M. requienii, will colonize gaps and cold, water, milk, or punch. The scent is redolent of the bergamot joints in paving, forming a green “mortar” covered in species in spring in a cold frame; transplant orange for which it is named. a haze of tiny mauve flowers. Like pennyroyal, it when large enough to handle. Established prefers shade and will certainly not thrive in plants can be divided in the fall. It will thrive full sun, and has a strong peppermint scent. in any soil, preferably in full sun, but grows Preparation: Pour boiling water over fresh or best if the ground is mulched and dug over dried flowers to make Oswego tea; it yields a with manure or garden compost, as this deep red color. Alternatively, steep in syrup and improves the moisture retention. Divide pour over red . Pour hot milk over leaves, every three years. stand for 5 minutes, strain, and drink. Leaves add left and Above: Watercolor of mint by Pierre François Ledoulx, c. 1790. There is a vast a fragrant seasoning for game and other meat variety of mint to explore—try peppermint Storage: Dry leaves and flowers, then store in dishes, including goat. The gently fragrant lemon (Mentha × piperita), spearmint (M.spicata), a dry place away from dust and light. applemint (M. suaveolens), or Eau-de-Cologne bergamot (M. citriodora) makes a good tisane or mint (M. × piperita “Citrata”) to give a subtle twist to the flavor of food and drinks. infusion for fruit salad.

120 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Bergamot 121 “[The Indian women in Oneida] engaged in carefully collecting and icolás Monardes (1493–1588) had been the preserving the flowers in baskets. They use them in the shape of a tea, Nfirst to publish details of the medicinal flora Tasting notes and call the plant O-jee-che—the fiery or flaming plant.” of North America in 1571. The lengthy title was Professor Benjamin Smith Barton of Philadelphia, (1807) shortened to Joyfull Newes out of the New-Founde Bergamot: a feast for the eyes from , (1979) Joan Parry Dutton Plants of Colonial Williamsburg World in its 1577 English translation. Bartram was The flavor of bergamot is more or less a also in correspondence with , who constant, but the range of flower colors decided to immortalize Monardes’s contribution by provide decorative choices. Britain’s national collection of monardas holds 87 cultivars creating the name Monarda. The common name of including ones raised from European and Oswego tea stems from its use as a brew by both the American suppliers. Native Americans and colonists. The popularity of Red “Adam” has red flowers, fragrant Oswego tea increased after the 1773 American foliage, and withstands dry conditions nonviolent protest against the British, known as the better. Grows to 35in tall. “Boston Tea Party.” Jekyll recommended drifting “Cambridge Scarlet” is a reliable the red forms of bergamot through summer old variety. herbaceous borders for additional color. “Fireball” has deep red globe-shaped The annual, tender, lemon or lemon-scented flowers set against dark green fragrant bergamot, M. citriodora (sometimes also known foliage. Compact 14 x 24in. as lemon mint), should be sown directly into “Jacob Cline” has showy, large, long the ground in spring and they prefer sandy soils. flowering red blooms. The fragrant The plant has paler green leaves with soft purple foliage is one of the best for mildew flowers and luminescent, almost white, . resistance. Pinch or cut back in early summer to get a second flowering. It is especially attractive to bees and butterflies. Grows to 47in tall. Bergamot leaves are subject to powdery mildew, so ensure the bergamot is not under stress by keeping Pink/ Favorites are “Beauty of Cobham” the soil moist and mulching with well-rotted Purple which has pale pink flowers, while those of “Croftway Pink” are deeper. organic matter; some varieties are more resistant than others. The wild bergamot,M. fistulosa, has “Blaustrumpf” or “Blue Stocking” has deep lilac to purple-colored flowers and a much broader growing range that makes it fragrant foliage. Grows to 5ft tall. invaluable for many American gardeners. The mint-leaved bergamot or Oregano de la Sierra, “Purple Rooster” is an American cultivar with imperial purple flowers set against M. fistulosa var. menthifolia, as the common name clean, mildew-resistant foliage. Grows suggests, has a strong flavor of oregano and is to 35in tall. popular with chefs in the southwest United States. Left: Oswego tea made from bergamot White “Schneewittchen” or ‘Snow Maiden” was a popular North American It has gray-green foliage and pale lavender flowers. has whorls of long-lasting, tufted white alternative to black tea, especially flowers set against green bracts. following the uprising known as the Boston Tea Party in 1773.

122 Herbs for THE gourmet gardener Bergamot 123 HERB FLAVOrS Aniseed Gingery Apart from its namesake, the anise (Pimpinella Apart from the qualities of ginger, its taste can be ), the fresh green seeds of sweet cicely taste gently appreciated in gingermint, × , SIMPLE AND COMPOUND anisum Mentha gracilis like traditional aniseed balls. There are anise and a cultivar of rosemary “Green Ginger” whose variations to be found in the leaves of chervil, normal resinous taste has additional spicy notes. he art of simpling is learning and identifying The young fresh fennel, and sweet cicely. The anise basil Ocimum( Tthe individual properties of one herb or leaves have the best basilicum “Horapha”) carries the flavor in both its Cool simple; the art of cooking is knowing when to zing but the stems reddish purple leaves and flowers and has a dwarf The cucumber qualities of the green and golden use the flavor of one herb, or a compound of can be used on form called “Horapha Nanum.” purslanes make them invaluable cooling additions complementary aromatics. It is as important to barbeques or when to a salad—green, mixed, , or rice. The identify and use a simple variant of lemon as it is to broiling or baking Perfume lemon tang of the small, buckler-leaved sorrel combine them, as described under salads, fine herbes, fish. Almost as Fragranced food is redolent of Middle Eastern makes a refreshing contrast with cold fish salads. bouquet garni, or herbes Provençales. The list below vigorous and useful is the lemon mint, Mentha × cuisine where rose petals and rosewater are acts as a flavor-first guide to the individual aromatic piperita f. citrata which gives a new twist to frequently used, and the sun-ripened herbs used Smoky qualities that herbs provide in each mouthful or sorbets and Pimms. The American cultivar in Provençal food are imbued with a characteristic Smoking salmon and other fish is a delicious infusion in cooking. “Hillary’s Sweet Lemon” was named for the woody perfume. Apart from , especially tradition, and there is something similarly smoky former US Senator Hillary Clinton. the orange-scented Thymus fragrantissimus, the but more aromatic in the difference between the Lemon There are several cultivars of lemon-scented aromatics of hyssop and lavender are key leaves and seeds of dill. French tarragon imparts a Most of the lemon-scented herbs indicate in their thyme, Thymus pulegioides , which often prove to ingredients in Mediterranean summer perfumed more smoky flavor when cooked than when raw. common names that they have this property, not be longer lived than the common thyme. Apart dishes. The heady, sweet muscat grape taste of forgetting the lemon vinegar taste of sorrel leaves. from the reliable cushion-forming type, there are elderflowers and orangey of bergamot The lemon fruit with its thick rind and many the gold-leaved “Archers Gold” and “Aureus” as leaves are excellent infused into drinks. And segments within seems to equate with the myriad well as the delicately candid white variegated let us not forget the elusive perfumes of the notes of lemon in woody and soft herbs. The “Silver Posie” and “Silver Queen.” humble sweet violet. quintessential lemon-scented herb has to be Basil and bergamot, both tender annuals, lemongrass, where all parts of it can be consumed have a delicacy of scent that matches their Hot and peppery for this taste, acting deliciously either as a main cultural requirements. There are several lemon This description links four very different herbs. component in a dish or as a mere flavoring. The : the Ocimum basilicum “Mrs. Burns’ There is the -hot and peppery bite in the favorite for my sense of smell is the gloriously Lemon” of Mexican parentage; and “Sweet leaves of salad arugula, whereas nasturtium scented lemon verbena, where every part exudes Dani,” of which the pure and clean -lemon leaves and flowers have more of a dry the fragrance of the finest lemon bath products. flavor is described as being “like a growing field pepperiness. Horseradish sauces are marketed Its leaves and bark impart a citrus fragrance to tea, of lemon drops.” Also, there is Indonesian on scales of hotness and it is at its hottest when Left: The flavor of the true aniseed seen here is tisane, and pot pourri. Kemangie (Ocimum × africanum) and the Thai simply served with vinegar. The flowers have a replicated in many herbs, each providing their own The easiest and hardiest must be , lime basil (Ocimum americanum). The light gentle afterburn. Freshly grated ginger has a taste variation on a theme— Melissa officinalis, which has plenty of attractive green-leaved and mauve-flowered is the only that heats you up when it is cold and conversely chervil, fennel, French tarragon, sweet cicely, as cultivars: “All Gold,” “Aurea,” and “Gold Leaf.” lemon-fragranced bergamot (). cools you down in hot weather. well as the basil “Horapha.”

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