How You Like Dem Oysters? by Ian Mcnulty

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How you like dem oysters? By Ian McNulty A s Saints fans gear up for the season opener this The company’s weekend, black and gold will be everywhere. That includes black bowfin (a.k.a. on the raw oysters at Bourbon House in New Orleans. choupique) caviar has found wide The French Quarter seafood restaurant has always offered a acceptance, though topping of black bowfin caviar on its oysters. But for a new company founder special that kicked off Thursday and continues throughout John Burke said Saints season, the restaurant is serving them beside oysters he’s only been topped with golden-hued catfish caviar as well. marketing his catfish caviar for about a This Saints-themed seafood special is just the latest example year, primarily to of creatively wrought raw oyster platters that move beyond Louisiana chefs. Like traditional cocktail sauce and crackers. They’re adding new the bowfin variety, dimensions to the beloved local bivalve without burying the he harvests the fish locally and prepares some batches with a essence of the oyster under ketchup and horseradish. touch of ghost pepper, adding a spicy bite. “When I was growing up, my dad always told us it was a “We call that caviar with a kick,” Burke said. waste to cover a good steak with A-1 sauce,” Beyond its potential to create a Saints-themed color scheme, said Bourbon House the gold caviar makes a fine accompaniment to oysters. The proprietor Dickie eggs are larger and softer than the bowfin variety, and they Brennan. “He’d say, taste milder and a bit earthier and creamier. If you find black ‘Taste it instead, taste caviar too intense, this catfish caviar might be more your what it’s really like.’ speed. At Bourbon House, both the black and gold oysters That’s how I feel about are doused with a light mignonette sauce, made with shallots, cocktail sauce on Champagne, vinegar and Creole mustard, for a cumulative oysters, so we try to offer effect that adds exclamation points to the fresh, bracing alternatives.” pleasure of a raw oyster. The eggs for Bourbon Of course black and gold oysters beg the question of a House’s black and gold possible purple and gold combination, but Brennan hasn’t oysters come from been able to source any purple fish eggs yet. New Orleans-based Louisiana Caviar Co. “But you know LSU fans will ask anyway,” said Brennan. 144 Bourbon St., New Orleans Bourbon House 504.522.0111.

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