FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM / FESTIVAL PROGRAMME

20.–26. februar 2017

Ljubljana, Domžale, Celje, Nova Gorica, Mojstrana INFORMACIJE IN PRODAJA ORGANIZATOR / VSTOPNIC / ORGANIZER INFORMATIONS AND TICKETS SALE Največji tovrstni festival v Sloveniji poteka že od leta 2007 in je tudi član Mednarodne zveze gorniškega filma (International Alliance for Mountain Film). Poslanstvo festivala je vsako leto predstaviti bogat filmski program iz gorskega sveta ter ga obogatiti z Ljubljana – Cankarjev dom obfestivalskim programom: predavanji, razstavami Prešernova cesta 10, 1000 Ljubljana in pogovori. Organizator festivala je Društvo za T: +386 1 2417 300 gorsko kulturo. E: [email protected] The festival, which is the biggest of its kind in Slovenia, has been a member of the International Alliance for Mountain Film (IAMF) since 2007. Each year, it showcases a rich selection of films about mountains, which are complemented by Celje – Mestni kino Metropol a diverse accompanying programme: lectures, Stanetova 15, 3000 Celje exhibitions and round tables. The festival is organized T: +386 40 296 701 by the Mountain Culture Association (Društvo za E: [email protected]. gorsko kulturo).

Domžale – Mestni kino Domžale Ljubljanska 61, 1230 Domžale T: +386 1 722 50 50 E: [email protected]

Nova Gorica – Kulturni dom Nova Gorica Bevkov trg 4, 5000 Nova Gorica T: +386 5 335 40 16 E: [email protected]

Mojstrana – Slovenski planinski muzej Triglavska cesta 49, 4281 Mojstrana FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM NA SPLETU / T: +386 8 380 67 30 FESTIVAL PROGRAMME ONLINE: E: [email protected] WWW.GORNISKI.SI NIVES MEROI & ROMAN BENET: PREDAVANJA / TRIJE MAKALUJI

LECTURES THREE MAKALUS

Nova Gorica, Mojstrana Gorica, Nova MARTINA ČUFAR POTARD: Ljubljana, Domžale, Celje, Domžale, Ljubljana, MAMA Z JEKLENIMI PRSTI

STEELY-FINGERED MOM

20.–26. februar 2017 februar 20.–26.

FESTIVAL PROGRAMME PROGRAMME FESTIVAL FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM / PROGRAM FESTIVALSKI Plezalni par, ki je v skupni navezi že 30 let, sodi med najuspešnejše v italijanskem in svetovnem alpinizmu. To velja predvsem za himalajske vzpone na osemtisočake v neoporečnem slogu. Njuni vzponi namreč vedno potekajo Martina Čufar Potard pleza že 28 let, skoraj tri četrtine brez kisika in višinskih nosačev, večkrat pa tudi po novih svojega življenja. Leta 2007 je predavala na prvem smereh ali v manj znanih stenah. Zato so nekateri vrhovi gorniškem filmskem festivalu, predvsem o svoji 17-letni zahtevali od njiju kar nekaj poskusov, med takšnimi je tekmovalni karieri, med katero je postala tudi svetovna zagotovo , na katerega sta priplezala šele tretjič. Med prvakinja. Po končanih tekmovanjih jo je želja po novih številnimi podvigi je bil najtežji in najpomembnejši podvig plezalnih pustolovščinah vodila v ZDA (Yosemite, Indian v njunem življenju zagotovo vzpon na 15. osemtisočaka, kar Creek), Mehiko (El gigante), pozimi v topla plezališča južne je bila Romanova bolezen. Potrebovala sta pet let in dve Francije in Španije ter nenazadnje v granitne stene nad presaditvi kostnega mozga, da sta lahko prišla do vrha in Chamonixom, kjer od leta 2009 tudi živi in kjer sta si z nato spet nadaljevala pot od tam, kjer sta se zadnjič ustavila. možem Nicolasom ustvarila družino. Seveda zdaj kot mama 17. maja 2014 sta stala na vrhu Kangčendzenge, 12. maja dveh fantičev, 5-letnega Tommyja in 2-letnega Paca, potuje 2016 pa, še vedno skupaj, dosegla vrh Makaluja. Ob sliki in manj, a prav nič ne ustavi njene velike strasti do plezanja. pogovoru z gosti bo predstavljena tudi Nivesina knjiga Ne Septembra je namreč uspela preplezati svojo drugo smer pustim te čakati, ki je v slovenščini izšla pri Mohorjevi založbi. z oceno 8c. Med predavanjem bo občinstvo odpeljala v poči in na tradicionalno plezanje v Ameriki in granitu nad This climbing couple with thirty years of history between Chamonixom, v previsne kapnike Verdona, razložila, kako je them is one of the best in and worldwide, especially biti plezalna mama, in zbrane zastrupila s svojo ljubeznijo do when you think about all of the eight-thousanders they skale. Pozor, protistrupa ni. climbed in impeccable style. All their ascents were carried out without supplemental oxygen and altitude porters, and Martina Čufar Potard has been climbing for twenty-eight often they climbed new routes or less known faces. Due to years – almost three quarters of her life. In 2007 she gave their pure style, some of the summits required more than a lecture at the first mountain film festival focusing on her one expedition, such as K2, which they climbed on their seventeen years on the competition circuit, which included third attempt. But the most difficult and the most important an overall world cup win. When she stopped competing she achievement of their lives was the battle with their 15th eight- traveled to USA (Yosemite, Indian Creek) and Mexico (El thousander: Roman’s illness. It took them five years and two Gigante), she’s visited numerous warm crags in the south marrow transplantations to reach the top and continue on of France and Spain during winters, and she also went to their path. On 17 May 2014 they stood atop , Chamonix, where she’s been living since 2009 together and on 12 May 2016 they were again together on the summit with husband Nicolas and their two children. With two young of . The couple will also talk about Nives’ book Non ti boys to take care of, she of course travels less these days, farò aspettare, which was published in 2015. but her passion for climbing remains undiminished and she’s managed to climb her second 8c route a couple of months JANEZ VOLKAR: ago. Her talk will take the audience to the cracks and trad NOŠAK PRED 40 LETI climbing of the USA, the perfect granite above Chamonix, NOSHAQ FORTY YEARS AGO and the overhanging tufas of Verdon. She’ll shed some light on being a climbing mom and infect everyone with her love of the rock. Beware, there is no antidote.

JERNEJ KRUDER: ZGODBA DVEH SVETOV STORY OF TWO WORLDS

V nemirno deželo Afganistan se nas je šest Slovencev skupaj s sedmimi poljskimi prijatelji podalo pred štiridesetimi leti. Cilj prve poljsko-jugoslovanske odprave je bil 7492 metrov visoki Nošak. Težave poljskih organizatorjev in velike podražitve prevozov in nosačev so »odplavile« aklimatizacijske ture. A ko smo se lotili hriba, smo bili sorazmerno hitro na vrhu. Vsi. Shujšani in utrujeni smo se Jernej pleza skoraj vse življenje. Začel je na majhnih umetnih vrnili v dolino in začeli enomesečno potovanje s tovornjaki, stenah v Celju, ampak kmalu opazil, da plezanje ponuja veliko avtobusi in vlaki domov. Po 89 dneh smo bili spet med več. Začel je tekmovati, plezati v skali in raziskovati vse oblike domačimi in prijatelji, zadovoljni z uspehom in bogatejši za INFORMACIJE IN PRODAJA ORGANIZATOR / športnega plezanja. Nikoli mu ni zmanjkalo izzivov. Njegova mnogo izkušenj. Življenje je nekatere člane »poneslo« še više ORGANIZER paradna disciplina je vedno bilo balvansko plezanje, kjer se in dlje, nekateri so dopolnili svoje življenjske cilje, nekaterim VSTOPNIC / je na tekmovanjih dotaknil samega vrha, v skali pa prav tako pa je pristriglo peruti … INFORMATIONS AND preplezal enega najtežjih balvanskih problemov. Biti samo TICKETS SALE Največji tovrstni festival v Sloveniji poteka že od leta balvanski plezalec mu ni zadoščalo, zato se je odločil, da svoje Forty years ago, six Slovenian and seven Polish climbers 2007 in je tudi član Mednarodne zveze gorniškega meje preizkusi tudi v večraztežajnih smereh in smereh, ki traveled to a turbulent Afghanistan. The first combined potekajo nad vodo – tako je jeseni opravil prvo ponovitev expedition of Polish and Yugoslav climbers had set their sights filma (International Alliance for Mountain Film). smeri Es Pontas. on Noshaq, 7,492m. The problems of Polish organizers and Poslanstvo festivala je vsako leto predstaviti bogat unexpectedly high prices of transportation and porters made filmski program iz gorskega sveta ter ga obogatiti z Jernej has been climbing for as long as he can remember. any acclimatization impossible. But once we started up the He started on small indoor training walls in Celje but soon mountain, there was no stopping us. All of us reached the Ljubljana – Cankarjev dom obfestivalskim programom: predavanji, razstavami realized that climbing can be so much more. He entered summit and we quickly returned to the valley to prepare for Prešernova cesta 10, 1000 Ljubljana in pogovori. Organizator festivala je Društvo za competitions and started climbing outside, where he the month-long, grueling ride home on the backs of trucks, gorsko kulturo. explored all forms of sport climbing and never ran out of buses, and trains. After eighty-nine days we were reunited T: +386 1 2417 300 challenges. Bouldering has always been his favorite, though, with our friends and family, satisfied with our ascent and full E: [email protected] and he’s experienced the most competitive success in this of new experiences. Some of the expedition members went The festival, which is the biggest of its kind in discipline, as well as climbing some of the hardest problems on to even higher summits, while others felt that they’ve had Slovenia, has been a member of the International in the world. But it wasn’t enough, so he ventured further and enough. began pushing his limits in multi-pitch climbing and deep- Alliance for Mountain Film (IAMF) since 2007. water soloing, where he’s recently grabbed the coveted JERNEJ ŠČEK: Each year, it showcases a rich selection of films second ascent of Sharma’s Es Pontas. ONKRAJ MITA – EMILIO COMICI about mountains, which are complemented by BEYOND THE MYTH – EMILIO COMICI ROBERT SCHAUER: Celje – Mestni kino Metropol a diverse accompanying programme: lectures, GAŠERBRUM IV Stanetova 15, 3000 Celje exhibitions and round tables. The festival is organized IV T: +386 40 296 701 by the Mountain Culture Association (Društvo za E: [email protected]. gorsko kulturo).

Tržačani od nekdaj plujemo po Alpah ali, če hočete, plezamo po Jadranskem morju. Mešamo zalive z dolinami, otoke z Domžale – Mestni kino Domžale vrhovi, ribiške taverne z gorskimi kočami. Trst je obmorsko Ljubljanska 61, 1230 Domžale Avstrijec Robert Schauer je vrhunski alpinist, ki je preplezal mesto z avtentično gorsko tradicijo, ki so jo pisali velikani nekatere najtežje smeri na svetu, med drugim tudi severno klasičnega in modernega alpinizma. V mestu brkljavih zgodb, T: +386 1 722 50 50 steno Eigerja pozimi in pet osemtisočakov, med katerimi nasilnih odporov in tihih stikanj so okovi objektivnosti vedno E: [email protected] najbolj izstopa prvi avstrijski vzpon na Everest. Njegov resnici preozki. največji dosežek je zagotovo prvi vzpon prek zahodne stene Emilio Comici je alpinistična legenda, na katerega so se – Gašerbruma IV v alpskem slogu leta 1985. Leto pozneje je kot na oprimek – obesili mnogi. Skozi njegova dejanja in ustanovil mednarodni filmski festival v Gradcu, ki je lani besedo, mimo interpretacij življenjepiscev, prek ganljivih praznoval trideset let. Na predavanju bo govoril o svojem videoposnetkov in redkih fotografij bomo onkraj mita pristopu k alpinizmu in prvih osemtisočakih: Gašerbrumu I srečali nagonskega atleta, vizionarja volje, učitelja plezalske in Nanga Parbatu, seveda pa ne bo mogel mimo vrhunskega umetnosti, esteta direttissime, lahkotnega plesalca vertikale, vzpona prek mogočne zahodne stene Gašerbruma IV, visoke poslušnega idola režima. Daimon Comici med ljubeznijo in Nova Gorica – Kulturni dom Nova Gorica skoraj 3000 metrov. S poljskim soplezalcem Voytekom sovraštvom. Bevkov trg 4, 5000 Nova Gorica Kurtyko sta Sijočo steno preplezala v alpskem slogu, vzpon People of Trieste have always sailed in the Alps and climbed T: +386 5 335 40 16 in sestop sta trajala kar deset dni. Njuna smer iz leta 1985 še vedno ni ponovljena. in the Adriatic Sea. We combine bays and valleys, islands and E: [email protected] peaks, fishing taverns and mountain huts. Trieste is a seaside Austrian native Robert Schauer is both an expert city with an authentic tradition, which has mountaineer, having completed some of the world’s most been written by the giants of classical and modern alpinism. difficult climbs – including a winter summit of the Eiger In the city of countless stories, violent resistance, and silent North Face, the Gasherbrum IV - West Face, and five of connections, the shackles of objectivity have always been too the world’s 8,000 meter peaks - (3 times), tight for the truth. Hidden Peak, , Makalu and , and Emilio Comici is a legend of alpinism and many have held on an expert filmmaker. His company, Robert Schauer Film to him like a handhold. Examining touching video footage Mojstrana – Slovenski planinski muzej Productions, has produced or co-produced mountain and and rare photos and exploring the man’s actions and words, Triglavska cesta 49, 4281 Mojstrana FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM NA SPLETU / adventure films for Austrian and international television and foregoing interpretations of biographers, we’ll go beyond T: +386 8 380 67 30 FESTIVAL PROGRAMME ONLINE: Austria’s tourist board, and a number of documentaries, the myth to find an instinctive athlete, visionary, teacher including Focus on Karakorum for the Discovery Channel. of the art of climbing, direttissima master, gentle dancer in E: [email protected] WWW.GORNISKI.SI He is the founder and director of the international Mountain the vertical realm, and obedient idol of the regime. Daimon and Adventure Film Festival in Graz, Austria. Comici between love and hate. PONEDELJEK / SREDA / ČETRTEK / PETEK / MONDAY, 20. 2. WEDNESDAY, 22. 2. THURSDAY, 23. 2. FRIDAY, 24. 2. LINHARTOVA DVORANA, LINHARTOVA DVORANA, LINHARTOVA DVORANA, LINHARTOVA DVORANA, CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA

18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 Ti, 6' Ama Dablam, izsanjane sanje, 80' Anapurna III - nepreplezan jugovzhodni greben, 13' Nagrajeni filmi Thyself Ama Dablam, Dreams Unfolded III - Unclimbed Awarded films Dežela Udegov, 26' Kangčendzenga, 19' 20:00 20:00 Strana Udehe Kangchenjunga Čudovita narava - navadni kameleon, 3' Nagrajeni filmi Sveta (ne)sveta reka, 60' Iz oči v oči, 13' Our wonderful nature - The common Chameleon Awarded films Holy (un) Holy River Face to Face Plošča, 10' Ogledalo, 39' 20:00 The Block KOSOVELOVA DVORANA, Mirror Wall Šerpa - Spor na Everestu, 96' Bazni tabor pod Everestom, 15' CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Sherpa - Trouble on Everest E.B.C. 5300m 20:00 Domovina smučanja, 53' Predavanje / Lecture 18:00 KOSOVELOVA DVORANA, To the Origin of Skiing Martina Čufar: Mama z jeklenimi prsti Predavanje / Lecture CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Martina Čufar: Steely-fingered mom Jernej Kruder: Zgodba dveh svetov Jernej Kruder: Story of two Worlds 18:00 KOSOVELOVA DVORANA, 20:00 Legendarni Drenovci, 50' CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Predavanje / Lecture Legendary founders of the Dren Society Robert Schauer: Gašerbrum IV Sfinga, 20'(retrospektiva) 16:00 Robert Schauer: Gasherbrum IV Sfinga Hombi, z mislimi na nebu, 26' Hombi, his Mind in the Sky 20:00 MESTNI KINO METROPOL, Jean Troillet, še vedno pustolovec, 54' Neznano, 4' KOSOVELOVA DVORANA, CELJE Jean Troillet, toujors aventurier The Unknown CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Kul očka, 11' 18:00 18:00 Rad Dad 16:00 Prva makedonska transverzala, 35' Nagrajeni filmi Bigmen, 18' Bartas, 44' First Macedonian Traverse Awarded films Bigmen Bartas Prečkanje Islandije, 52' 20:00 Igrišče odraslih otrok, 47' Raziskovanje Pamirja, 52' Crossing Iceland Nagrajeni filmi La cour des grands Aspirations of the Pamirs 20:00 Awarded films 18:00 Divja Albanija - V deželi orla, 44' SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ, Monte Sarmiento, 27' Wild Albania – In the Land of the Eagle SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ, MOJSTRANA Monte Sarmiento Dolomiti - V hramu junakov, 52' MOJSTRANA Seznam, 47' The Dolomites – In the Heroes’ Garden 18:00 La Liste 18:00 Divja Albanija - V deželi orla, 44' MESTNI KINO METROPOL, Predavanje / Lecture Wild Albania – In the Land of the Eagle 20:00 CELJE Janez Volkar: Nošak pred 40 leti Dolomiti - V hramu junakov, 52' Mar Alvarez, brez logotipov, 8' Janez Volkar: Noshaq Forty Years Ago The Dolomites – In the Heroes’ Garden Mar Álvarez. No Logo 18:00 Brette, 11' Mar Alvarez, brez logotipov, 8' KULTURNI DOM Brette Mar Álvarez. No Logo NOVA GORICA TOREK / Jezdeci viharjev, 20' Brette, 11' Riders on the Storm TUESDAY, 21. 2. Brette 18:00 Mladi upi 27' Jezdeci viharjev, 20' Nagrajeni filmi Young Guns LINHARTOVA DVORANA, Riders on the Storm Awarded films CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Mladi upi 27' MESTNI KINO METROPOL, Young Guns CELJE 18:00 SOBOTA/ Sir s sedmimi skorjami, 25' 18:00 Cheese with Seven Rinds SATURDAY, 25. 2. Čudovita narava - navadni kameleon, 3' Nosačeva svoboda, 58' Our wonderful nature - The common Chameleon KD FRANCA BERNIKA, Freedom under Load Plošča, 10' DOMŽALE 20:00 The Block Vse poti vodijo na Škotsko, 9' Bazni tabor pod Everestom, 15' 18:00 All Roads Lead to Scotland E.B.C. 5300m Nagrajeni filmi 20:00 Fanta v Bugabujih, 18' Domovina smučanja, 53' Awarded films Vse poti vodijo na Škotsko, 9' Boys in The Bugs To the Origin of Skiing All Roads Lead to Scotland Pesem za jutri, 26' 20:00 20:00 Fanta v Bugabujih, 18' A Song for Tomorrow Nagrajeni filmi Anapurna III - nepreplezan jugovzhodni greben, 13' Boys in The Bugs Dodova sreča, 28' Awarded films Annapurna III - Unclimbed Pesem za jutri, 26' Dodo’s Delight Kangčendzenga, 19' A Song for Tomorrow KULTURNI DOM Kangchenjunga Dodova sreča, 28' KOSOVELOVA DVORANA, NOVA GORICA Iz oči v oči, 13' Dodo’s Delight CANKARJEV DOM, LJUBLJANA Face to Face 18:00 Ogledalo, 39' SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ, Nagrajeni filmi 16:00 Mirror Wall MOJSTRANA Awarded films Cape Wrath Ultra , 31' Cape Wrath Ultra SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ, 18:00 20:00 Langtang, 52' MOJSTRANA Sir s sedmimi skorjami, 25' Nagrajeni filmi Langtang Cheese with Seven Rinds Awarded films 18:00 18:00 Nosačeva svoboda, 58' Predavanje / Lecture Vse poti vodijo na Škotsko, 9' Freedom under Load Jernej Šček: Onkraj mita – Emilio Comici All Roads Lead to Scotland NEDELJA / Jernej Šček: Beyond the Myth – Emilio Comici Fanta v Bugabujih, 18' KULTURNI DOM SUNDAY, 26. 2. Boys in The Bugs NOVA GORICA 20:00 Pesem za jutri, 26' KD FRANCA BERNIKA, Dadyaa, 16' A Song for Tomorrow 18:00 DOMŽALE Dadyaa Dodova sreča, 28' Čudovita narava - navadni kameleon, 3' Hiša Nime Gyalmu, 17' Dodo’s Delight Our wonderful nature - The common Chameleon 18:00 Gyalmu’s House Plošča, 10' Nagrajeni filmi 3000 skodelic čaja, 59' The Block Awarded films 3000 Cups of Tea Bazni tabor pod Everestom, 15' E.B.C. 5300m 20:00 SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ, Domovina smučanja, 53' Nagrajeni filmi MOJSTRANA To the Origin of Skiing Awarded films

18:00 20:00 Čudovita narava - navadni kameleon, 3' Vse poti vodijo na Škotsko, 9' SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ,

Our wonderful nature - The common Chameleon KULTURNI DOM All Roads Lead to Scotland MOJSTRANA Plošča, 10' NOVA GORICA Fanta v Bugabujih, 18' The Block Boys in The Bugs 18:00 Bazni tabor pod Everestom, 15' 19:00 Pesem za jutri, 26' Nagrajeni filmi E.B.C. 5300m Predavanje / Lecture A Song for Tomorrow Awarded films Domovina smučanja, 53' Nives Meroi & Roman Benet : Trije Makaluji Dodova sreča, 28' To the Origin of Skiing Nives Meroi & Roman Benet : Three Makalus Dodo’s Delight