FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM / FESTIVAL PROGRAMME 20.–26. februar 2017 Ljubljana, Domžale, Celje, Nova Gorica, Mojstrana INFORMACIJE IN PRODAJA ORGANIZATOR / VSTOPNIC / ORGANIZER INFORMATIONS AND TICKETS SALE Največji tovrstni festival v Sloveniji poteka že od leta 2007 in je tudi član Mednarodne zveze gorniškega filma (International Alliance for Mountain Film). Poslanstvo festivala je vsako leto predstaviti bogat filmski program iz gorskega sveta ter ga obogatiti z Ljubljana – Cankarjev dom obfestivalskim programom: predavanji, razstavami Prešernova cesta 10, 1000 Ljubljana in pogovori. Organizator festivala je Društvo za T: +386 1 2417 300 gorsko kulturo. E: [email protected] The festival, which is the biggest of its kind in Slovenia, has been a member of the International Alliance for Mountain Film (IAMF) since 2007. Each year, it showcases a rich selection of films about mountains, which are complemented by Celje – Mestni kino Metropol a diverse accompanying programme: lectures, Stanetova 15, 3000 Celje exhibitions and round tables. The festival is organized T: +386 40 296 701 by the Mountain Culture Association (Društvo za E: [email protected]. gorsko kulturo). Domžale – Mestni kino Domžale Ljubljanska 61, 1230 Domžale T: +386 1 722 50 50 E: [email protected] Nova Gorica – Kulturni dom Nova Gorica Bevkov trg 4, 5000 Nova Gorica T: +386 5 335 40 16 E: [email protected] Mojstrana – Slovenski planinski muzej Triglavska cesta 49, 4281 Mojstrana FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM NA SPLETU / T: +386 8 380 67 30 FESTIVAL PROGRAMME ONLINE: E: [email protected] WWW.GORNISKI.SI NIVES MEROI & ROMAN BENET: PREDAVANJA / TRIJE MAKALUJI LECTURES THREE MAKALUS Nova Gorica, Mojstrana Gorica, Nova MARTINA ČUFAR POTARD: Ljubljana, Domžale, Celje, Domžale, Ljubljana, MAMA Z JEKLENIMI PRSTI STEELY-FINGERED MOM 20.–26. februar 2017 februar 20.–26. FESTIVAL PROGRAMME PROGRAMME FESTIVAL FESTIVALSKI PROGRAM / PROGRAM FESTIVALSKI Plezalni par, ki je v skupni navezi že 30 let, sodi med najuspešnejše v italijanskem in svetovnem alpinizmu. To velja predvsem za himalajske vzpone na osemtisočake v neoporečnem slogu. Njuni vzponi namreč vedno potekajo Martina Čufar Potard pleza že 28 let, skoraj tri četrtine brez kisika in višinskih nosačev, večkrat pa tudi po novih svojega življenja. Leta 2007 je predavala na prvem smereh ali v manj znanih stenah. Zato so nekateri vrhovi gorniškem filmskem festivalu, predvsem o svoji 17-letni zahtevali od njiju kar nekaj poskusov, med takšnimi je tekmovalni karieri, med katero je postala tudi svetovna zagotovo K2, na katerega sta priplezala šele tretjič. Med prvakinja. Po končanih tekmovanjih jo je želja po novih številnimi podvigi je bil najtežji in najpomembnejši podvig plezalnih pustolovščinah vodila v ZDA (Yosemite, Indian v njunem življenju zagotovo vzpon na 15. osemtisočaka, kar Creek), Mehiko (El gigante), pozimi v topla plezališča južne je bila Romanova bolezen. Potrebovala sta pet let in dve Francije in Španije ter nenazadnje v granitne stene nad presaditvi kostnega mozga, da sta lahko prišla do vrha in Chamonixom, kjer od leta 2009 tudi živi in kjer sta si z nato spet nadaljevala pot od tam, kjer sta se zadnjič ustavila. možem Nicolasom ustvarila družino. Seveda zdaj kot mama 17. maja 2014 sta stala na vrhu Kangčendzenge, 12. maja dveh fantičev, 5-letnega Tommyja in 2-letnega Paca, potuje 2016 pa, še vedno skupaj, dosegla vrh Makaluja. Ob sliki in manj, a prav nič ne ustavi njene velike strasti do plezanja. pogovoru z gosti bo predstavljena tudi Nivesina knjiga Ne Septembra je namreč uspela preplezati svojo drugo smer pustim te čakati, ki je v slovenščini izšla pri Mohorjevi založbi. z oceno 8c. Med predavanjem bo občinstvo odpeljala v poči in na tradicionalno plezanje v Ameriki in granitu nad This climbing couple with thirty years of history between Chamonixom, v previsne kapnike Verdona, razložila, kako je them is one of the best in Italy and worldwide, especially biti plezalna mama, in zbrane zastrupila s svojo ljubeznijo do when you think about all of the eight-thousanders they skale. Pozor, protistrupa ni. climbed in impeccable style. All their ascents were carried out without supplemental oxygen and altitude porters, and Martina Čufar Potard has been climbing for twenty-eight often they climbed new routes or less known faces. Due to years – almost three quarters of her life. In 2007 she gave their pure style, some of the summits required more than a lecture at the first mountain film festival focusing on her one expedition, such as K2, which they climbed on their seventeen years on the competition circuit, which included third attempt. But the most difficult and the most important an overall world cup win. When she stopped competing she achievement of their lives was the battle with their 15th eight- traveled to USA (Yosemite, Indian Creek) and Mexico (El thousander: Roman’s illness. It took them five years and two Gigante), she’s visited numerous warm crags in the south marrow transplantations to reach the top and continue on of France and Spain during winters, and she also went to their path. On 17 May 2014 they stood atop Kangchenjunga, Chamonix, where she’s been living since 2009 together and on 12 May 2016 they were again together on the summit with husband Nicolas and their two children. With two young of Makalu. The couple will also talk about Nives’ book Non ti boys to take care of, she of course travels less these days, farò aspettare, which was published in 2015. but her passion for climbing remains undiminished and she’s managed to climb her second 8c route a couple of months JANEZ VOLKAR: ago. Her talk will take the audience to the cracks and trad NOŠAK PRED 40 LETI climbing of the USA, the perfect granite above Chamonix, NOSHAQ FORTY YEARS AGO and the overhanging tufas of Verdon. She’ll shed some light on being a climbing mom and infect everyone with her love of the rock. Beware, there is no antidote. JERNEJ KRUDER: ZGODBA DVEH SVETOV STORY OF TWO WORLDS V nemirno deželo Afganistan se nas je šest Slovencev skupaj s sedmimi poljskimi prijatelji podalo pred štiridesetimi leti. Cilj prve poljsko-jugoslovanske odprave je bil 7492 metrov visoki Nošak. Težave poljskih organizatorjev in velike podražitve prevozov in nosačev so »odplavile« aklimatizacijske ture. A ko smo se lotili hriba, smo bili sorazmerno hitro na vrhu. Vsi. Shujšani in utrujeni smo se Jernej pleza skoraj vse življenje. Začel je na majhnih umetnih vrnili v dolino in začeli enomesečno potovanje s tovornjaki, stenah v Celju, ampak kmalu opazil, da plezanje ponuja veliko avtobusi in vlaki domov. Po 89 dneh smo bili spet med več. Začel je tekmovati, plezati v skali in raziskovati vse oblike domačimi in prijatelji, zadovoljni z uspehom in bogatejši za INFORMACIJE IN PRODAJA ORGANIZATOR / športnega plezanja. Nikoli mu ni zmanjkalo izzivov. Njegova mnogo izkušenj. Življenje je nekatere člane »poneslo« še više ORGANIZER paradna disciplina je vedno bilo balvansko plezanje, kjer se in dlje, nekateri so dopolnili svoje življenjske cilje, nekaterim VSTOPNIC / je na tekmovanjih dotaknil samega vrha, v skali pa prav tako pa je pristriglo peruti … INFORMATIONS AND preplezal enega najtežjih balvanskih problemov. Biti samo TICKETS SALE Največji tovrstni festival v Sloveniji poteka že od leta balvanski plezalec mu ni zadoščalo, zato se je odločil, da svoje Forty years ago, six Slovenian and seven Polish climbers 2007 in je tudi član Mednarodne zveze gorniškega meje preizkusi tudi v večraztežajnih smereh in smereh, ki traveled to a turbulent Afghanistan. The first combined potekajo nad vodo – tako je jeseni opravil prvo ponovitev expedition of Polish and Yugoslav climbers had set their sights filma (International Alliance for Mountain Film). smeri Es Pontas. on Noshaq, 7,492m. The problems of Polish organizers and Poslanstvo festivala je vsako leto predstaviti bogat unexpectedly high prices of transportation and porters made filmski program iz gorskega sveta ter ga obogatiti z Jernej has been climbing for as long as he can remember. any acclimatization impossible. But once we started up the He started on small indoor training walls in Celje but soon mountain, there was no stopping us. All of us reached the Ljubljana – Cankarjev dom obfestivalskim programom: predavanji, razstavami realized that climbing can be so much more. He entered summit and we quickly returned to the valley to prepare for Prešernova cesta 10, 1000 Ljubljana in pogovori. Organizator festivala je Društvo za competitions and started climbing outside, where he the month-long, grueling ride home on the backs of trucks, gorsko kulturo. explored all forms of sport climbing and never ran out of buses, and trains. After eighty-nine days we were reunited T: +386 1 2417 300 challenges. Bouldering has always been his favorite, though, with our friends and family, satisfied with our ascent and full E: [email protected] and he’s experienced the most competitive success in this of new experiences. Some of the expedition members went The festival, which is the biggest of its kind in discipline, as well as climbing some of the hardest problems on to even higher summits, while others felt that they’ve had Slovenia, has been a member of the International in the world. But it wasn’t enough, so he ventured further and enough. began pushing his limits in multi-pitch climbing and deep- Alliance for Mountain Film (IAMF) since 2007. water soloing, where he’s recently grabbed the coveted JERNEJ ŠČEK: Each year, it showcases a rich selection of films second ascent of Sharma’s Es Pontas. ONKRAJ MITA – EMILIO COMICI about mountains, which are complemented by BEYOND THE MYTH – EMILIO COMICI ROBERT SCHAUER: Celje – Mestni kino Metropol a diverse accompanying programme: lectures, GAŠERBRUM IV Stanetova 15, 3000 Celje exhibitions and round tables. The festival is organized GASHERBRUM IV T: +386 40 296 701 by the Mountain Culture Association (Društvo za E: [email protected]. gorsko kulturo).