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Laima Vaikule: the Truth About Animals and Humans White Nights LLaimaaima Vaikule:Vaikule: TThehe TruthTruth aboutabout AnimalsAnimals andand HumansHumans WWhitehite NightsNights inin St.St. PetersburgPetersburg CCôtesôtes dduu RRhônehône WWineine LLegalegal AAdvicedvice advertising Contents 4 Calendar & Editor’s Choice What to do in Moscow in June 10 June in Russian History 12 Books, Music, and Film Storks’ Nest by Laura Williams, Laima Vaikule’s Greatest Hits, films to see in English in Moscow 16 Art History Lidia Masterkova’s oeuvre 18 Weekend Getaway White Nights in St. Petersburg 20 Day Out in Moscow The real Varykino: Boris Pasternak’s summer dacha 22 Moscow Metro Feature Ray Nayler on the Ring Line (that’s the Brown Line to you and me) 24 Cover Story Pop diva and animal lover Laima Vaikule talks to Passport 28 Outside Moscow Dachas: Where have all the city-dwellers gone? 30 Outdoor Fun The sculpture garden at the Central House of Artists 32 Real Estate Red October Chocolate Factory 34 Travel On the way to Beijing: Buryatia 36 Outlook 38 Wine & Dine Drink: Cote du Rhone wines Eat: Else Cafe Listings 46 Columns Jonathon Curtis on being a young expat in Moscow Lipp Service: Linda on the horsey set Fred Flintstone: Why buy a Zhiguli? Daniel Klein’s Legal Line 52 Out & About 56 The Last Word American Center director Marisa Fushille Letter from the Publisher e city’s fountains are gushing and the smell of oil-based paint from all the spring owers — ing over all those nice freshly painted fences and wrought iron, a sign that summer is getting into full gear. So put that coat in mothballs those socks. It’s time to go outside! In this issue Passport takes a breath of fresh air and enjoys the great outdoors: We review Storks’ Nest, a new book by Laura Williams about her experiences living on a wildlife preserve in Russia (page 13). Read the history of that great Russian summertime institution, the dacha en meet Laima Vaikule (page gure in this part of the world since Soviet times, but when she’s not singing, Vaikule is active in animal welfare issues. Laima spoke to Passport about her recent trip to Archangelsk to protest the brutal treatment of harp seals by John Ortega fur hunters and about our responsibility to animals. Owner and Publisher Along the way, you can learn about the Moscow metro’s Ring Line (page 22) and take in dinner (restaurant review, page 42) and a movie (Vladimir Kozlov examines the recent in Buryatia (page 34) as he continues his journey to Beijing (where he will arrive in time for the Olympics), plus White Nights in St. Petersburg (page 18), the Red October Chocolate Factory (page 32), and Lenin’s teeth (page 51). So plant yourself under a shady tree, buy an ice cream from one of the vendors who have popped up along with the tulips, and turn the page! Do you have a story you’d like to tell? Do you have a story you’d like to read? Passport wants to hear from you! Send comments, ideas, suggestions, requests to [email protected] Passport is looking for an advertising manager. Great opportunity! Send resume and cover letter to [email protected] Owner and Publisher Designer Accounting and Legal Services John Ortega, +7 (985) 7842834 Andrey Vodenikov Vista Foreign Business Support Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 9337822 [email protected] [email protected] Editor Copy Editor Contributors Isabelle Hale Charles Borden, Maria Barleben, James Blake, Jonathon [email protected] Linda Lippner Photographers Curtis, Piers Gladstone, Ross Hunter, Daniel Klein, Linda Deputy Editor Lippner, Vladimir Kozlov, Claire Marsden, Neil McGowan, Alex Gorov, Alevtina Kashitsina, Anna Kulyagina Ian Mitchell, Ray Nayler, Olga Slobodkinavon Br mssen [email protected] Sergei Koshkin, Ruslan Sergeev, Alexei Zhukov, Alexander Zorin Arts Editor Alevtina Kashitsina Webmaster Alexey Timokhin [email protected] [email protected] Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77 Office 013, 1st floor 18639. 08.10.04 109316 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 (495) 6200888 Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat 93 Mir Street, 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia Tel/ Fax: (495) 2212677 www.passportmagazine.ru 2 June 2008 ESa^SOY ZPVSMBOHVBHF /bAOdO\beSQ][PW\SeSabS`\[O\OUS[S\babgZS eWbVZ]QOZY\]eZSRUSO\Rc\RS`abO\RW\UEWbVO QZSO`dWaW]\O\RORWabW\QbWdSO^^`]OQVeS^`]RcQS SfQS^bW]\OZ`SacZba 8FBSFSFBEZUPEPUIFTBNFGPSZPV 1SPKFDU.BOBHFNFOU Moscow Office 2AYMOND&aDEL $POTUSVDUJPO.BOBHFNFOU TEl: +7 495 783 73 60 %FTJHO EMail: rAYMONDfADEL SAVANTINTERNATIONALCOM $PTU.BOBHFNFOU St. Petersburg Office *OWFTUNFOU$POTVMUBODZ SERGEY3VESHKOV TEl: + 7 812 703 57 75 EMail: SErGEySVESHKOV SAVANTINTERNATIONALCOM wwwsaVANTiNTERNaTiONalCOM Russia & CI3s5NITED+INgDOMs#ENTral & EASTERN%UrOPEs"ALTICSs3OUTH%ASTERN%UROPE ADVERTISEMENT Monday Tuesday Wednesday Th ursday Friday GO DANCING Latino Non-Stop B2 Club MUSIC 20:00 Garou (Canada) ALEXANDER PUSHKIN’S (Also on June 9, 16, 23, 30) State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 BIRTHDAY DANCE FESTIVAL Th e Ten Tenors MUSIC BALLET STOMP Edinburgh Fringe Festival in Moscow Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 19:00 23456Tchaikovsky’s Th e Nutcracker MDM Damascus by Traverse Th eatre Muz-Tv Awards (Also on June 6) Olimpiisky Sports Complex Moscow State Stanislavsky & 19:00 Meyerhold Th eater Center PJ Harvey (UK) Nemirovich-Danchenko Musical Th rough June 8 19:00 19:00 MKhAT im. Gorkogo, 20:00 MUSIC Th eater, 19:00 EXPO (Also on June 5) (Also June 26, 27) www.britishcouncil.ru FESTIVAL Leningrad (Russian rock) Aquatec 2008 International Spotlight Singapore B1 Maximum MUSIC Crocus Expo FESTIVAL Poetics of Space 21:00 Piazzola Quintet Th rough June 6 Spotlight Singapore Khokhlovskaya Manufaktura Art FESTIVAL Tango Nuevo Open10:00 – 18:00 “Generation/s” Center Spotlight Singapore Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center International House of Music Th rough June 22 Jam Session 19:00 Rorschach Test 19:00 DOM Cultural Center, 21:00 EXPO Word of Leon Tatyunjan’ EXPO FESTIVAL OPERA Arts in Design Proun Gallery Seafood Russia 2008, Crocus Expo Summer Open Air at Hermitage George Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess David Gill Collection Th rough June 28 Th rough June 6 Spleen (Russian rock) International House of Music Heritage Gallery, Th rough June 30 Except Mondays Open 10:00 – 18:00 Hermitage Garden, 20:00 19:00, also on June 7 DANCE MUSIC Kostroma National Dance Show SPORTS Arkhangelskoye Mansion Cosmos Hotel Concert Hall Tennis Starts at 14:00 MUSIC 91011121319:30 Moscow Open Mayor’s Cup Th rough June 14 Four Brothers and Virtuosi of Th rough September 15 Luzhniki Stadium KIDS & PARENTS Moscow 10:00 “Dancing Fountains” Show International House of Music BALLET VVTs, Stone Flower Fountain 19:00 Shostakovich’s Th e Light Spring OPERETTA For schedule and tickets visit BALLET MUSIC Bolshoi Th eater, 19:00 Off enbach’s La Vie Parisienne www.vvtsproduction.ru Minkus’ La Bayadère Okean Elzy (Ukraine) EXPO Moscow Operetta Th eater BALLET Bolshoi Th eater B1 Maximum Jeans show 2008. 19:00 Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake 19:00 20:00 Expocenter, Open 10:00 – 18:00 Bolshoi Th eater, 19:00 Th rough June 11 FESTIVAL FESTIVAL FESTIVAL MUSIC OPERA Art Music @ International Open Art Music @ International Open Art Music @ International Open Concert honoring Rimsky-Korsakov’s Th e Tsar’s Bride Book Festival Book Festival Book Festival Irina Maslennikova’s 90th birthday Bolshoi Th eater Vaclav Koubek (Czech Republic) Sebastien Tellier (France) Gudrun Gut (Germany) Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center 19:00 Central House of Artists Central House of Artists Central House of Artists 19:00 20:00 20:00 20:00 GO DANCING 16SPORTS 17 18 19Back to the Future: ‘70s and ‘80s Disco 20 Russia Premier League Football B2 Club Moscow v. Pyatigorsk 22:00 Luzhniki Stadium (Also on June 22, 27) BALLET 17:00 Prokofi ev’s Cinderella MUSIC MUSIC OPERA Stanislavsky & Nemirovich Jazz Piano EXPO Edelweiss Jazz Quintet Verdi’s La Traviata Danchenko Musical Th eater B2 Club Rosmould International B2 Club Stanislavsky & Nemirovich- 19:00 21:00 Crocus Expo 21:00 Danchenko Musical Th eater OPERA Open 10:00 – 18:00 19:00 Premiere Th rough June 19 MUSIC MUSIC Marriage and Other Horrors MUSIC MUSIC Serj Tankian (US) Summer Open Air at Hermitage A fantasy performance dedicated to Kylie Minogue (Australia) Neschastny Sluchai (from Russia) B1 Maximum Chaif (Russian rock) the Nikolai Gogol’s 200th birthday Olimpiisky Sports Complex Central House of Artists 20:00 Hermitage Garden Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center 19:00 19:00 (Also on June 19) 20:00 19:00 (Also on June 2) SPORTS 2008 Inteco Russian Open Golf Championship Le Meridien Moscow Country Club EXPO through June 27 23Shoe Show 24www.russianopen.ru 25 26 27MUSIC Manezh Renee Fleming Open 10:00 – 18:00 MUSIC International House of Music Th rough June 25 Dmitry Khvorostovsky (Russia) and 19:00 Angela Georgiu (Romania) MUSIC Tchaikovsky Conservatory Wolfgang Holzmair, baritone 19:00 MUSIC Featuring pianist Russell Ryan and MUSIC Tarkan (Turkey) the Rakhmaninoff Trio Crowded House (New Zealand) Olimpiisky Sports Complex Tchaikovsky Conservatory B1 Maximum 19:00 19:00 THEATER 20:00 OPERA Master and Margarita OPERA MUSIC MUSIC W.A. Mozart’s Cosi Fan Tutte (in Russian) Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin Sex Pistols (UK) Masterpieces of organ music Stanislavsky & Nemirovich- Th eater at Yugo-Zapadnaya Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center Luzhniki Sports Complex International House of Music Danchenko Musical Th eater 3019:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Saturday Sunday VENUES B2 Club Khokhlovskaya Manufaktura Art Center FESTIVAL 8 Bolshaya Sadovaya MKhAT im. Gorkogo Edinburgh Fringe Festival in Moscow (495) 650-9909, M. Mayakovskaya 22 Tverskoy Bulvar, (495) 203-6222 “Presumption” by Th ird Angel Th eatre (UK) www.mxat-teatr.ru, M. Tverskaya, Meyerhold’s Th eater Center Tchaikovsky Concert Hall 19:00 BAZAAR 4/31 Triumfalnaya Ploschad Hermitage Garden Indian Women’s Association Summer Bazaar Festival of Irish Cinema (495) 232-5353, M.
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