Vladimir Kulic: Delicious ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR ‘What’s not Histories of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] to like about Favourite - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Modernism?’ Balkan BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Foods

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Issue No. 265 Friday, December 21, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Festive Guide party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Photo: Srdjan Garcevic

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 3 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE Vladimir Kulic: ‘What’s not to like about Modernism?’ The man behind the huge critical success of the MoMA show on Yugoslav Modernist Architecture is delighted by the new appreciation being shown for what he considers masterpieces in Installation view of Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980, The Museum of Modern Art, Photo: Martin Sec concrete. New York, July 15, 2018–January 13, 2019. © 2018 The Museum of Modern Art.

to the Yugoslav coastal resorts of the The social role that architecture was er surprising place where the market Daniel PETRICK 1970s, which the MoMA show presents called on to serve in Yugoslavia What has validated Yugoslav urban plan- in detail. These resorts were built for stands out in the exhibition. Visitors see ners. Say what you want about the eople were puzzled the working classes relax in, in a shared architectural renderings and photos of grey towers but real estate prices are Zlatko Ugljen. Šerefudin White Mosque. 1969–79. Visoko, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Interior when Vladimir Kulic egalitarian space along with foreign kindergartens, gas stations, mosques, holding up well, showing it remains a view. Photo: Valentin Jeck, commissioned by The Museum of Modern Art, 2016 started studying Yugo- tourists – but Hotel Lone is so expen- mass housing projects, and workers’ desirable place to live. Although the to the river and to the parks, you know this new appreciation for his old passion. slav Modernist architec- sive that MoMA refused to pay for Kulic universities designed by premier ar- development was vilified in the 1970s ultimately, what’s not to like?” “If the exhibition pushes it even further, I’d ture in the early 2000s. and his team to stay there during their chitects. Today, by contrast, shopping and 1980s, Kulic remarks that you can A realisation that New Belgrade isn’t so be quite happy,” he concluded. “I got the question more research trip in the region. While Hotel malls and luxury apartments are the “drive downtown in ten minutes, there’s bad and that Modernist 1970s-style beach Pthan once; why in the world am I work- Lone is an act of aesthetic homage, it premier architectural projects being ample parking, you are surrounded by resorts are hip has gone along with a broad- “Towards a Concrete Utopia: Architec- ing on this? Who would even want to clearly wasn’t built for the same social built in the former Yugoslav countries. greenery, the quality of the housing er re-engagement with brutalist architec- ture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980” closes on know about this?” he recalled, “Even purpose as the Yugoslav resorts. Kulic noted New Belgrade as anoth- stock is rather high … you have access ture across the world. Kulic is pleased by January 13 in MoMA in New York City. from architects from the region.” He is unlikely to face such questions again following the critically acclaimed exhibition, “Towards a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948-1980,” at New York City’s Museum of Modern Art MoMA, which runs through to Jan- uary 13. The exhibition, which Kulic co-curat- ed alongside MoMA’s Chief Curator of Architecture and Design, Martino Sti- erli, justifies Kulic’s academic choices and makes an argument for Yugoslav Modernism’s place in the architectural Vladimir Kulic, Mejrema Zatric (curatorial advisor), and Martino Stierli (co-curator, and MoMA’s Chief Curator of Architecture and Design) at the top of mosque in Visoko. Photo: Courtesy of Vladimir Kulic canon. Kulic trained as an architect in Bel- The curatorial team met in Skopje, unified architecture, the exhibition pre- of mundane and mediocre. But then age before it is destroyed. grade during the 1990s but his interests Macedonia, in November 2015 where sents a picture of a social, political, and when you condense all of that into one Kulic had hopeful realisations while shifted to architectural history just as they made their case. Having con- economic system that created a shared place and see all of it together, it does preparing the exhibition. “From the Yugoslav architecture was itself rel- vinced MoMA that the Yugoslav project space by encouraging experimentation speak with a kind of force that is not ob- material we had to cut we could have egated to history. deserved to be more widely known, and local initiative. vious in real life.” made another exhibition of the same “What was happening in front of me they focused on how to introduce this “One of the most interesting aspects The exhibition was made possible in size, which is really incredible and with the city was far more interesting little known material to the world and of ‘Yugoslav architecture’ is this dy- large part due to the efforts of members tells you that there was an enormous than what I originally wanted to study,” make the case for the material’s sig- namic between the overall framework of the curatorial team, based in Skopje, amount of really interesting, valuable said Kulic. As the transition period went nificance. One of the biggest challenges of Yugoslav unity and its particular to preserve architectural plans from architecture produced at the time.” on, he saw that “suddenly Modernist was the sheer size of the endeavour. identities within,” said Kulic. the post-war period that state archives He wishes they could have included architecture was completely changing Kulic said he and his team asked “What this dynamic produced … is a have been simply throwing in the trash. the work of Bosnian architect Zivorad meaning, changing ownership, chang- themselves “whether it is even possible rather unusual density of architectural This “experimental preservation,” as Jankovic, who pioneered a new build- ing purpose.” to insert anything new into the canon experimentation and movements – Kulic called it, is especially important ing type combining sports facilities, Some of it, suddenly, was no more. retroactively, now 40, 50, 70 years later. very diverse kinds of architecture were in Skopje where not only the archives commercial space, and business cen- The radical changes made to the ar- When there are these small interven- produced under this umbrella of Yugo- but buildings themselves have been tres, the best known example of which chitectural fabric of the country due tions in the canon, these rediscoveries slavia.” destroyed or changed beyond repair as is the Skenderija complex in Sarajevo. 70 to wartime and post-Socialist neglect … it’s usually a single architect or a single Because Americans and other out- part of the “Skopje 2014” project to give He also designed similar complexes in Years “made it very obvious that this was building. We have an entire country, so siders now largely associate Yugoslavia the city a makeover. Novi Sad, Split, and Pristina. Young something that required attention”. the scale was scary”. with the wars of the 1990s, and because Some of these architectural render- Kulic laments that these buildings Kulic went on to get his PhD at the A further challenge was making an the architectural material was so lit- ings, effectively snatched out of the are also under threat, particularly in University of Texas where he studied argument for “Yugoslav architecture,” tle known even among architectural trash bins, were put to good use in the Sarajevo and Novi Sad, where local Yugoslav Modernist architecture and something that had been questioned historians, many visitors have left the exhibition, where an entire room is de- authorities are trying to demolish the co-authored Modernism In-Between: before. Some argued that the distinc- show surprised and enthusiastic, hav- voted to the utopian plans to rebuild buildings to capitalise on valuable real The International School of Belgrade The Mediatory Architectures of Social- tive national schools of architecture ing seen a Yugoslavia they never knew Skopje in the aftermath of the devastat- estate close to the city centres, rather ist Yugoslavia. and design in places like Ljubljana, existed. ing 1963 earthquake. than investing in what Kulic considers This book made him the obvious Belgrade, and Sarajevo, along with the To Kulic’s delight, “that’s also the im- For those who appreciate Yugoslav outstanding pieces of architecture. Wishes you all the best for the Holiday Season person to call when MoMA started decentralised nature of architectural pression that a lot of people who grew Modernism, it is painful to see the de- Whereas in some places market forc- considering a Yugoslav architectural decision-making in the country, meant up in the region had. When you put struction and neglect of these unique es are threatening this architectural and a prosperous New Year! exhibition in early 2015. At first, MoMA that nothing truly unified the country together this great amount of architec- structures, and particularly painful heritage, in other cases the market has wanted to know whether it would even and thus there was no “Yugoslav archi- ture in a single place it does end up be- when it is the state, whose responsibil- validated Yugoslav Modernism, how- Quality International Education for Leaders of Tomorrow be possible to host such an event. Were tecture,” but only “architecture in Yugo- ing shocking. ity it is to preserve cultural heritage, ac- ever. there enough archival materials and slavia.” “In everyday life these pinnacles of tively destroying heritage. Kulic hopes Kulic noted in particular the Hotel The International School of Belgrade - Serbia - Temišvarska 19 - +381-11-2069999 - www.isb.rs - [email protected] enough interesting buildings to stage a Kulic and his team disagreed. Where architecture are diluted by most of the the exhibition will convince people of Lone in Rovinj, Croatia, built in 2011. show? others have seen a lack of a nationally urban fabric, which everywhere is sort the significance and value of this herit- The hotel is a work of aesthetic homage 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 5 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

mostly focused on the Tax Office, dealing COMMENT with construction permits, introducing e- Government and sporadic and selective Coffee and changes of regulation. Other government systems have re- Serbia’s mained almost untouched. There were almost no reforms of large state-owned Connections at enterprises, like Telekom and EPS (state- Economy owned electric utility power company). Business regulation remains massive and confusing. The tax system remains non- Share Square Remains a transparent, inefficient and costly. Above all, the government has saved money by cutting public investments, while protect- Chained Balkan ing public procurements. And, when it comes to the rule of law, only opposite trends can be observed. Tiger During the process of constitutional reforms, the government missed the chance to improve the independence of For all the optimistic average. That might be good news for the judiciary. highly developed economies, but it is not Furthermore, instead of decentralizing talk of a ‘golden age’ so good for an economy whose GDP per power across the country, Serbia seems capita is only 37 per cent of EU 28 average, to be moving into opposite direction. In around the corner, based on Eurostat data. the case of the Belgrade airport conces- Serbia’s economic At that pace, Serbia is doomed to re- sion, it has limited the volume of air traffic main on the economic periphery of Eu- in Nis, the only other functional civil air- growth has been rope for a long time. port in the country. Such weak economic performance Freedom of expression, a fundamental disappointingly may not be specific only for Serbia. The mechanism for putting the government weak – and is likely wider economic situation in the Western under pressure to do things right, has Balkans is not good at the moment. All the been going through hard times. to remain so, unless regional countries are struggling with a Despite recent surge, Serbia's growth has been glacial compared Photo: Beta/ Emil Vas If a conclusion has to be made, it would number of economic issues, which mani- to countries like Romania. seem that the government’s policy on the the government fest themselves best in a massive brain including fiscal consolidation as the most becoming one of the European cham- ground has been to protect the status quo radically changes its drain of young people. common one. Faced with high and un- pions in giving subsidies to privately instead of reforming the nation. Compared with 17 Eastern European sustainable levels of public debt, 70.4 per owned companies and foreign investors. As a result, the economy continues to priorities. economies, once centrally-planned, Cro- cent of GDP in 2012, the Serbian govern- According to Talas.rs, a Serbian por- function as a basic agrarian economy in atia is the only one lagging behind Serbia ment has prioritised fiscal and macroeco- tal that focuses on economic issues, the terms of growth, where overall economic Pedja MITROVIC in terms of economic expansion. Cumu- nomic stability over growth. Serbian government has allocated 2.7 activity is heavily influenced by rain and lative growth there since 2012 was 11.5 per It has implemented tough but selec- per cent of its national GDP each year for drought. he last six years have not cent, or only 1.6 per cent a year. tive austerity measures (targeting mostly those purposes, which is the third highest Knowing that, what are the perspectives been the best in the his- All the other economies are power- those who do not vote for the govern- level in Europe, after Denmark and the of Serbian growth in the coming years? tory of Serbia’s economic ing ahead of Serbia, with Romania being ing parties), cut public sector wages and Czech Republic. And what can be done to improve national development. They are an absolute champion – 30 per cent to- pensions. Together, these constrained But, despite such massive financial economic performance? If nothing chang- not even among the best tal growth since 2012, or 4.4 per cent per consumption and undermined growth support, results have remained feeble. es, the prospects are not encouraging. if we look only at the year! efforts, but did bring public debt down to Most of the government subsidies have This is confirmed by growth projec- Guests collaborate over coffees in the lower level. Photo: Monica Starr Tyears following the collapse of Slobodan There is a lot that to learn from Roma- 55 per cent of GDP in September 2018 ac- primarily gone on low-technology facto- tions of international development insti- Milosevic’s regime. nia’s growth, starting with vigorous re- cording to Ministry of Finance data. ries whose capacities to improve growth tutions that expect long-term growth to Economic growth for 2018 is expected forms of the business environment, tax It should be noted, however, that more proved inadequate – low value-added average 4 per cent at best, while the rule of Patrons busily work and chat on both levels of the space. Photo: Monica Starr to be 4.2 per cent, according to the EBRD, code reform, tax cuts, and an increase than two-thirds of this debt reduction is production has been followed by slow thumb says that the average growth rate but only as a result of very disappointing in wages for doctors and nurses to deter actually the result of the depreciation of productivity growth. for a small and insufficiently developed growth of 1.9 per cent in 2017. them from leaving the country. the US dollar on international markets – Looking at the official 2017 data from country should be at least 5 per cent. Ryo Ragland, 33-year-old founder of Share And this is not the end of the troubles. Serbia is struggling with recovery at a and of economic growth; public debt in the National Employment Service, one Reaching the standard of living of A coworking space, Square, has lived and worked all around the globe, Leading institutions in the field, such as moment when the whole European con- absolute terms grew from 17.7 billion eu- can see that more than two-thirds of sub- Western democracies now looks just like which also runs a but studied abroad in the Balkans during college. the IMF, the World Bank and the Serbian tinent is experiencing sound economic ros to 23.9 bn. sidised jobs end once the programme a faraway dream that will not be reached Returning as an adult to Belgrade, he sought to government’s Fiscal Council, expect long- expansion. Supported by the quantita- What is important to note is that the itself ends. before 2060s, assuming growth rates do variety of courses, is create a medium to connect people and ideas in a term growth for Serbia to average just 3.5 tive easing programmes of major global Serbian government started implement- What is more interesting is that Serbia’s not change from those recorded between physical space, at a low cost, through classes. to 4 per cent in the next five years. central banks, which injected more than ing austerity measures only in late 2014, failure to boost economic recovery came 2001 and 2018. enabling Belgraders and Since December 2017, when Share Square Despite that, state officials, supported $13 trillion into global markets, according two years after it took power, while the at a time of global economic expansion. If Serbia wants proper economic growth, passers-by to connect, opened, about 2,000 people have taken classes at by the representatives of international in- to Bloomberg, growth in the European growth problems existed before that. It points to the fundamental causes of it has to radically change its economic pol- the site. Classes range from learning how to create stitutions, maintain that trends are better Union accelerated from –9 per cent in GDP grew only by 2.6 per cent in 2013 all the economic troubles Serbia is having icy. Serbia needs a new vision of where the collaborate, learn new a WordPress site to honing the craft of calligraphy. than ever, that the country is moving for- 2012 to 2.4 per cent in 2017, as measured and was disappointing again in 2014, – deep and persistent structural issues. nation is going – in effect, a U-turn. The classes run anywhere from 3 to 28 US dollars. ward fast, and that a golden age is about by Eurostat. when it dropped to 1.8 per cent, according Simply, no economic policy can work if skills – and get pumped “At classes, people can meet like-minded peo- to begin. Furthermore, growing demand from to the Statistical Office of Serbia. the structural disbalances are too large. Pedja Mitrovic, is a former graduate up on coffee. ple, they can find people who are already success- Economic expansion in Serbia has Western European countries has boosted Secondly, other countries also went While rhetoric about reform from the teaching fellow at the Faculty of Econom- ful and want to help them, and the instructors can been very weak ever since the Serbian investment, export and growth in East- through the process of fiscal consolida- government is strong and despite signifi- ics, University of Belgrade and a current make a little money, too,” says Ragland who in- Progressive Party and the current Ser- ern Europe. Yet, Serbia failed to absorb or tion but without this having any signifi- cant improvements in international com- member of the Belgrade Assembly for the Monica STARR tended the model to benefit all parties. bian President, Aleksandar Vucic, took benefit from such trends. cant impact on their economic perfor- petitiveness, little has been done to fun- Alliance for Serbia. Although Share Square is a coworking and edu- power in 2012. Why is Serbia’s economy is failing to mance. damentally improve Serbia’s economic estled between a youth hostel cational hub, people also drop by simply to hang Cumulative GDP growth has been less catch up with other Eastern European Aware of its growth problems, Serbia environment. The opinions expressed in this article and an upscale hotel on the tiny out. than 13 per cent for the whole period, countries? has over-relied on subsidies as a short- Only minor changes have been made are those of the author only and do not Koce Popovica street, near the “I come and spend time here even when I am which is less than 2 per cent per year on Several possible explanations emerge, term tool to attract foreign investments, in the work of the public administration, necessarily reflect the views of BIRN. Sava River and Belgrade bus sta- not working, just because I like the atmosphere,” tion, lies Share Square. Branded says Akinyemi. as an anti-café and coworking The patrons are not the only people who appre- Nspace, patrons come here to work and collaborate, ciate the culture of Share Square; the staff love it, Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR paying only for the time they spend. too. +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] That is not all: Share Square is equipped with a “I have heard the most amazing stories from Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight SoundLab and a CookLab, with a kitchen where people here,” says Jelena Petrovic, a Belgrade guests can take cooking courses. native and social media intern at Share Square, “No other place resembles what we do here. Oth- recalling a story she had heard about a travel- er coworking spaces have walls and cubicles,” says ler who crossed dozens of countries with only a HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU Xavier Carrera, a business development manager backpack. Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL for Share Square from Mexico, who appreciates A newcomer to Share Square, Nikola Gacic from Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 the sense of community here. western Serbia, has been testing it out as a possible HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade A variety of inviting cushions pepper the bi-lev- workspace for his electronics career. He has been Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU el building. Soft overhead lights transition through “pleasantly surprised by the coworking culture.” Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA each color of the rainbow as upbeat music plays in Everyone learns of Share Square in a different CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 the background. Guests mill around to refill their way. For Akinyemi, it was Tinder, for Carrera it was Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF coffees and pet the resident dog, Mina, while oth- a class he took, for Petrovic, it was a Facebook post Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE ers fixate on glowing laptops. and Gacic learned about it from his girlfriend’s Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 Share Square attracts people young and old, lo- friend. Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST cal and foreign. That is why Lanre Akinyemi, who But all have found a haven in the heart of Bel- MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA hails from Nigeria but works online in sales for a grade. HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 US company, loves to come here. Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 “There is a mix of international and local people Monica Starr is an alumna of the SIT Study Abroad HILTON BELGRADE that you don’t often see in other spaces here in Program Serbia, Bosnia and Kosovo: Peace and Con- Address: Kralja Milana 35 Belgrade. You see students, freelancers, and small flict Studies in the Balkans. This story was written as business owners,” Akinyemi says. an Independent Study Project in Journalism. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 7 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

YugoTour guide, Slobodan Davidovic, poses with a Yugo car while guiding a tour. Photo: Sonja Borgmann Taking a Ride to a Forgotten State

A tour of the Belgrade’s upscale Dedinje district. It was little over ten years after his death, on Shop Till You capital is designed May 4, 1980, that Yugoslavia fell apart. Sharing about the wars of the 1990s to give tourists that followed Yugoslavia’s break-up can be controversial and or even emotional ‘a taste of what it for the YugoTour staff who lived through Drop in Belgrade the period. was like to live in However, Ivanovic says their team as- DUB in Zetska 13 is a treasure trove for those looking for great antiques from Serbia. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic pires to deepen their guests’ understand- Yugoslavia’. ing of the conflict beyond the simplified version she often saw portrayed in for- by siblings Nikola and Nenad Radojcic, to Kalemegdan park, but you can prob- TRUFFLES of this pungent fungus can find it in an- Sonja BORGMANN eign media. A growing array this brand is famous for funky t-shirts, ably find more quality handicrafts and AND TIPPLES ything from oil to chocolate at Damar With tourism growing in Belgrade, Yu- some of which celebrate Belgrade in better deals at some of the increasing Truffles (Zetska 2). n oddly rectangular goTour has increasing opportunities to of style conscious very creative ways. The latest series is number of stylish concept stores in the For delicious edible souvenirs for If it is a nice traditional tipple that and pumpkin-colored do this, with more than a million tourists craft-oriented dedicated to Serbia’s rivers and Yugo- city. friends and family abroad, you can’t you are after, go for Serbian rakija (fruit car lurches down a visiting Belgrade just last year. slav typography and is already coveted Makadam, a shop/café in leafy Ko- go wrong with a jar of ajvar, a tra- brandy) or wine. Fancy bottles of rakija Belgrade waterfront The majority of YugoTour’s tourists shops, both old and by Belgrade trendsetters. sancicev Venac, has a great selection ditional pepper-based spread. It is at a slightly higher mark-up can be street, conspicuously come from Western Europe and the Unit- If you fancy more upmarket design- of local design, from traditional to mod- easy to get hold of the mass-market found at Rakia & Co shop (Terazije 42). out of place among the ed States, the guides say. new, can help you ers, Ana Ljubinkovic (Kneza Sime ern and from locally made crockery to brands, like Bakina Tajna, in any su- On the other hand, there is no bet- Asmooth traffic of more modern vehicles. Julie Steinbach, a 71-year-old retired Markovica 10) is famous for candy- pillows, all with the distinctive geomet- permarket. However, more artisanal ter place for wine than the beautiful Behind the large wheel is 23-year-old Na- teacher from California, passed through tick off the items on coloured frocks and quirky shoes, ric Pirot-patterns. homemade jars can be found at any Finovino (Pop Lukina 6). There you talija Ugljevarevic. Belgrade once when it was the capital of which celebs like Miley Cyrus and Lady If you are looking for proper an- of Belgrade’s green markets, such as can not only choose between dozens Ugljevarevic, a guide for the Yugo Tour Yugoslavia. She returned with a desire your holiday gift list. Gaga have worn. For more stripped tiques, check out DUB, a gem of a shop Bajloni, at the bottom of Skadarlija. If of producers but be guided by the ex- company, is fidgeting with the worn- “to feel Belgrade as another piece of that down, classic women’s wear, Dragana in Zetska 13. It is packed with anything you are going for homemade ajvar, tremely knowledgeable staff. However, out gear changes, preparing to pick up amazing, complicated and challenging Ognjenovic’s (Cara Lazara 9) minimal- and everything, from ornate shawls to ask the merchant if you can try some if you are content with something less American tourists for an experiential ride puzzle.” Srdjan GARCEVIC ist monochrome dresses are a good antique carpets, all made by craftspeo- first. Make sure the lid is properly showy to stock up your drinks cabinet through Yugoslav history. The founder of YugoTour, 41-year-old choice. ple all over Serbia. The knowledgeable sealed. with, head to Cerpromet’s spirits and YugoTour’s driving tours are designed Dutchman Ralph Van der Zijden, says he s there anything more festive Finally, if hats are your thing, visit owner is keen to tell the stories behind If you have a sweet tooth, Bosiljcic, wine emporium in Kapetan-Misina to educate travelers about Yugoslavia, a launched the company because he felt that excessive consumerism at some of the last remaining milliners each item. Belgrade’s last old-fashioned craft con- 30. It has an excellent range of tipples, federation created during the World War there were not enough opportunities in year-end? If Belgrade’s holiday in Balkanska street and get anything For contemporary crafts, Belgrade fectionery, at Gavrila Principa 14, is the including Serbia’s own take on cognac, II that fell apart following the fall of Com- Natalija Ugljevarevic, a YugoTour guide, prepares the Yugo car for a tour around former Yugoslavia's capital. Photo: Sonja Borgmann Belgrade to learn about the past country. lights haven’t lured you to the from a standard flat cap to a fez – all Design District (Cumicevo Sokace 28), place to go. It stocks homemade Turk- Vinjak. munism. Guides drive guests between “We try to contribute to the protection shops just yet, here are a few at low prices. For less gaudy pieces nestled between Nusiceva and Re- ish delight, a staple in Serbian homes If you want to go hipster and treat historic Yugoslav landmarks in Belgrade, the old days from fond memories passed learned to drive in. united in their fight against Nazi German of cultural heritage”, says Zjiden, who is ideas about where to make last- of Serbian ethnic wear, check out the public Square, has everything from or- since Ottoman times. some craft-beer snobs in your life with once the former country's capital, and in down in her family. Guides lead four different history tours occupation. hopeful that, by showing people are in- minuteI purchases in the city. If you feel Ethnographic Museum (Studentski ganic craft soaps (in All-Nut) to pottery In the past few years, however, Bel- local brews, head to 300 Cuda (Bal- cars from the period, the pride of many “I try to tell them everything that made about former Yugoslavia, including one The visitors then tour the former Yu- terested in Yugoslav history, the local gov- the urge to splash out rather than waste trg 13), which often stocks nice tradi- (Galerija 1250). graders have become more interested kanska 21) or to Majstor za Pivo (Zorza Yugoslav families at the time. me love Yugoslavia and understand Yu- on architecture and another on political goslav government building as well as a ernment and communities will begin to money on tacky magnets or overpriced tional sashes, or the Museum of Ap- Finally, if Yugoslav memorabilia in craft chocolates. Two of the best plac- Klemnsoa 18). They have some of the Inside the car, with its sun-bleached goslavia,” she says. developments. hotel bearing the same name, once one of remember and appreciate the landmarks airport souvenirs, treat your loved ones plied Arts (Vuka Karadzica 18), which is what you’re after, there is no bet- es for these creations are Mandarina best local and foreign craft beer cans upholstered seats and crank-down win- YugoTour’s operation manager, On the latter, the “Rise and Fall of a the most luxurious in the capital, which scattered throughout the city of nearly 2 – and yourself – to some great local de- offers a selection of medieval-style ter place than the new gift shop of (Gracanicka 16) and Valentina i Karan- and bottles. For craft gin, head to the gin dows, Ugljevarevic offers her guests 31-year-old Nina Ivanovic, whose child- Nation” tour, they take visitors through hosted Britain’s Queen Elizabeth and two million people. sign, handicrafts and delicacies. jewellery. the Museum of Yugoslavia (Mihaila fil (Gospodar-Jevremova 6), which not stall within the newly opened Beograd- Cockta, a soda once popular as a replace- hood was spent in Yugoslavia, says she significant landmarks in the creation and US presidents, Richard Nixon and Jimmy Mika Jankovica 6). There, you can only offer novel flavours but chic pack- ski Market (Zorza Klemensoa 19). You ment for Coca Cola in Yugoslavia, while wants tourists “to get a taste of what it was breakup of Yugoslavia. Carter. Sonja Borgmann is an alumna of the SIT FANCY FROCKS TO FEZES PIROT CARPETS AND find Tito-shaped piggy banks as aging as well. can buy some quality local and foreign Yugoslav dance music from the 1960s like to live in Yugoslavia because it’s really This tour begins at a concentration The tour ends at the grave of the for- Study Abroad Program Serbia, Bosnia and PARTIZAN MEMORABILIA well as postcards with photos of “the Another recent trend among Ser- bottles there and treat yourself to a nice blares from the speakers. difficult to explain it.” camp in Belgrade that operated during mer country’s leader and father figure, Kosovo: Peace and Conflict Studies in the If you are after some signature Bel- greatest son of Yugoslav peoples and bian foodies is local truffles (black and G&T at the same time – an excellent Born four years after Yugoslavia dis- For her, the Yugo cars are like time ma- World War II, where guides begin the Josip Broz Tito, whose mausoleum forms Balkans. This story was written as an Inde- grade street style, look no further than You can always find knick-knacks to nations” sunbathing and playing ten- white), which are much cheaper than way to calm your nerves after all the solved, Ugljevarevic learned about life in chines, reminding her of the vehicles she story with how the Yugoslav peoples part of the Yugoslav history museum in pendent Study Project in Journalism. DechkoTzar (Gracanicka 16). Created haggle over at the stalls at the entrance nis. those coming from Istria and Italy. Fans stressful shopping. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 9 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

It all depends on the family and loca- tion of course, but the young oak or oak branch is normally brought into the house on Christmas Day, though some take it inside on Christmas Eve. Delicious Histories of An interesting book from long ago, “Servia, Youngest Member of the Eu- ropean Family”, written by an English- man, A. A. Paton, in 1848 (available for Favourite Balkan Foods free on (www.gutenberg.org) describes these Christmas traditions in the mid- 19th Century. “At Christmas, for instance, every From ajvar peasant goes to the woods, and cuts to trilece, the down a young oak; as soon as he re- turns home, which is in the twilight; he favourite dishes says to the assembled family, ‘A happy Christmas eve to the house;’ on which a of the Balkans male of the family scatters a little grain on the ground and answers, ‘God be put the region’s gracious to you, our happy and hon- oured father.’ The housewife then lays unique history of the young oak on the fire, to which are thrown a few nuts and a little straw, and cultural exchange the evening ends in merriment.” This tradition is alive and well today. on a plate. My nephews and niece went wild when their father brought hay and an oak tree inside the house, and he, too, was Srdjan GARCEVIC welcomed enthusiastically with ker- nels and walnuts being thrown at him. hile foreign The hay is placed on the ground, rule and power which is where you have dinner on struggles often Christmas Eve. It symbolises the hay brought havoc of the stable in Bethlehem where Jesus to the Balkan was born. The dinner is “posno”, a fast- peoples, it also ing dinner, which means no meat or leftW behind a diverse cuisine in which dairy. Actually, the whole day before various influences merge and make the Christmas is “posno”. best use of the region’s fertile lands. This is a big contrast with my old While some regional specialities do home country, where the Christmas Eve not cross borders, the limits between or Christmas Day dinner consisted of a the national cuisines in the Balkans full table groaning with various kinds of tend to be blurry, with many nations food. The dinner table is shiny and peo- enjoying same foods, albeit claiming ple put on their best clothes, just like in them exclusively as their own! the American Christmas movies. Still, a glance at the history behind In Serbia, you eat fish and vegetables some the regions’ favourite dishes on the ground, on hay. Personally, I like more often than not reveals a tradition this kind of celebration of Christmas of cultural exchange that the Balkan Eve more than what we do in the Neth- peoples had, and still have, between erlands. It seems like a return to basics! each other as well as with the wider After the dinner you enjoy the even- world. ing together and after midnight you can let off fireworks or firecrackers. I thought AJVAR Serbs only let off fireworks at New Year, or when Serbia wins something in sports, Peppers arrived in the Balkans with but no, it happens for Christmas, too – to the Ottomans and quickly became a keep the evil spirits out of the house. staple of the local cuisine. The crown- Traditional Badnjak bonfire. Photo: Fabian Vendrig ing jewel of pepper appreciation in the CHRISTMAS DAY Balkans and Central Europe is ajvar, the Pork – which used to be Serbia’s main export – is enjoyed in a variety of dishes, like here at Belo Blato’s Sausage festival. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic beloved spread (sometimes classed as in Istanbul and spread throughout the after the Ottoman conquest for eco- roast is the indispensable centrepiece as sarma-sandwich, a hit at Zagreb’s Christmas morning starts with an salad), based on peppers and tomatoes. Mediterranean. But some speculate nomic reasons. Due to the Islamic of all feasts in Serbia, especially at Christmas market. old greeting: “Hristos se rodi” (“Christ is The history of this beloved dish is that it has an even more ancient origin. prohibition on pork, which Muslims Christmas. Making a good pork roast is My Eye-Opening First born”), to which you reply: “Vaistinu se murky, but one clue about how it came According to these sources, borek is an consider unclean, the Ottomans considered a great skill and is a perma- TRILECE rodi” (“He was born indeed”). to be popular is in its name. Interesting- Ottoman update of the Ancient Roman could not tax or take pigs from farm- nent topic of debates among Serbian After breakfast follows a Christmas ly, ajvar shares its etymology with “cav- placenta pie, which was made using ers, prompting Christian Serbs to de- foodies as to which restaurant does it Delicious milky sponge cake coated Christmas in Serbia lunch, which is not “posno”. There is a iar”, which itself comes from havyar, a layers of tracta (a Roman version of filo vote themselves to swine-herding. best: Stari Hrast in Arandjelovac is a in caramel, trilece or trileqe is most special baked flat breadloaf, called a Turkish word for salted roe. One theory pastry), and a mix of cheese and honey. With time, Serbs started exporting strong contender, and so is Uzelac, in commonly associated with Albania “cesnica”, which contains a coin, a ker- posits that, a long time ago, when Dan- While in contemporary Turkey pork to the Habsburg lands across the Belgrade. and Kosovo in the Balkans. While some mas very differently to back in my old lands, people used to go to church on and the social gathering, it is finally nel, a bean and a piece of the oak tree ube sturgeons swam all the way up to borek covers a whole range of dishes Danube and the Sava, and some of the source its history to a mix of cow, goat Serbs celebrate home country. Christmas Eve, but not a lot of people time to head home. inside. If you find one of these in your Belgrade, sturgeon roe was a popular based on filo pastry, in the Balkans richest Serbs at the time were swine SARMA and buffalo milk in medieval Albania, When I celebrated my first Christ- do that nowadays. bread, you will be lucky in the year to dish in Serbian homes. But at some there is constant simmering tension be- merchants. another version tells a story of globali- Christmas in mas with my Serbian family in Milo- The difference is that the gathering CHRISTMAS come. You will also eat soup, “sarma” point, sturgeon caviar production de- tween predominantly Bosnian “meat- According to one story, the leader of Sarma, or cabbage stuffed with rice sation and interconnectedness in forg- caj, a village near Kraljevo in central in church on Badnje vece in Serbia, EVE CUSTOMS AT HOME (stuffed cabbage rolls), pork and, of clined, leaving cooks scrambling to find burek-exclusivists”, who insist that the First Serbian Uprising against the and meat, is a truly international dish ing local recipes and even traditions. style – and with Serbia, I was fascinated by the cus- besides the religious aspect of the ser- course, a cake. After lunch, you relax a substitute, which made them turn to burek is only really made with meat, Ottomans and father of the Karadjord- and is proof of early globalisation dur- Again, the clue is in the etymol- a variety of old toms and traditions of this holiday in vice, is also a social gathering. After When I arrived home, more customs and enjoy Christmas with your fam- (or according to some versions, create) and “burek-inclusivists” in Macedonia, jevic dynasty, Karadjrodje Petrovic, ing the Ottoman times. Its varieties, un- ogy. Trilece is suspected to be an Al- Serbia. the service is finished, people do not and traditions were revealed to me. I’d ily next to the Christmas tree with the the pepper-based spread. Montenegro, Serbia, and Croatia, who had his first brush with the Ottomans der different names and various ingre- banised version of tres leches (“three and interesting Before I came to Serbia, I had not go home directly. They gather around already gathered that it is better not to Christmas lights, just like everywhere However to claim that ajvar is Ser- apply the name to all of varieties of the when some of them attacked the pigs dients, are enjoyed from the Caucasus milks”), a similar dessert, popular in even known that Christmas in Serbia is a huge campfire, close to the church, be a young oak tree before Christmas in else. Another interesting thing is that bian is to reignite a bitter feud between dish, which range from plain to recently he was herding. Prince Milos Obreno- to Sweden, to where the dish Kåldol- Latin America, and especially Mexico. traditions that celebrated on a different date. In Serbia which is lit with an oak tree blessed by Serbia, as so many are cut down as part the first man entering the house on Balkan countries about its origins, concocted pizza-burek. vic, the first ruler of autonomous Ser- mar was brought after King Charles XII, This dessert’s history is a proof of the it is celebrated according to the Julian the priest. of the tradition. Branches are not only Christmas Day is called the “polozajnik” which started when a Slovenian com- In Serbia, the most common vari- bia, was a swine merchant. an Ottoman ally, spent time in Moldova power of early iterations of corporate were a true calendar. This means that Serbian Or- I was surprised to get a branch of an used in church for the Badnje vece. You – which means he gets a present. So, be pany tried to patent it in Germany in ety of is round, served either plain, with Pork’s pivotal role in Serbian his- in the 18th Century. marketing. The recipe for trifle-like, thodox Christmas takes place 13 days oak tree planted in my hands, which should bring a young oak tree, or at least on time when you are invited. the late-1990s. While it probably will cheese or meat, and can be traced to tory continued into 20th Century. The In Serbia, Croatia and Bosnia, sarma milk infused dessert was apparently revelation to this after Catholic Christmas, on January I was supposed to put on the fire. The a branch, into your house, too. “Srecan Bozic!” (Merry Christmas!) never be established where first ajvar the southern city of Nis, where it dates Serbian-Habsburg trade war of 1906- (from the Turkish “roll”) is typically popularised across the Latin American 7. I was surprised to find out that “my more sparkles you get when you burn was created, the most renowned ajvar- back at least to 1498. It is most com- 1908 is called the Pig War because wrapped in pickled cabbage, which is countries when Nestlé in the early 20th incomer from the Christmas”, on December 25 and 26, is your oak branch, the more prosper- producing regions are southern Serbia monly eaten for breakfast, bought from Austro-Hungarian Empire unsuccess- traditionally more acidic than German Century put it on the side of their con- not even a public holiday in Serbia. Eve- ous your coming year will be. As we and Macedonia. In southern Serbia, a local bakery, and washed down with fully imposed tariffs on Serbia’s pork, sauerkraut, and is enjoyed at weddings, densed milk cans, to boost their sales. Netherlands. rybody is still working and all the shops gathered around the fire, I got some hot there is even a village, Donja Lokosnica, local, runny variety of yoghurt. the country’s main export, to quell New Year parties and slavas, or fam- According to some, the cake made its are open. rakija – plumb brandy – as well. This whose speciality is cultivation of long- Serbia’s rise. ily patron saint’s days. Even in Serbia, way to Albania with the popularity of Fabian VENDRIG warm beverage is known as Sumadija ish, meaty peppers, which are said to PORK Needless to say, pork’s political im- there are other versions of sarma. Some Latin American TV soap operas, which BADNJE VECE tea, after the region of central Serbia. I yield the best ajvar. portance in Serbia is matched by its cu- wrap the rice and meat mix in dock prompted Albanians to reverse-engi- hen the (CHRISTMAS EVE) really enjoyed this part of the tradition, So tight is Serbia’s connection with linary importance. Firstly, it is enjoyed leaves, called zelje, a type of leafy green neer the recipe and eventually make Dutch cel- because you get to meet friends, family BUREK the pig that its close cousin, the wild in the variety of cured meats served in enjoyed in the Balkans, while others it one of favourite Albanian desserts ebrate Christ- While the Netherlands and most and neighbours. This is especially the boar, made it onto modern Serbia’s the country, from spicy kulen sausage substitute meat with walnuts to make and spread it further. These days, tri- mas, they other countries celebrate Christmas case if the church you attend services a There is little doubt that burek, the first coat-of-arms, seen on the flag of to local prosciuttos. Then, of course, it vegan and thus edible during the lece’s popularity is increasing in Serbia usually do so Eve on December 24, in Serbia it is on small village. The church where I usu- Balkans’ favourite layered pie and the First Serbian Uprising of 1804. there are cvarci, delicious nuggets of long Orthodox Church fasts. In Croatia, as well, thanks to the large number of with family January 6. In Serbian, Christmas Eve ally go, in Cvetke, is just that kind of a hangover cure, is a direct descendant of The country’s close relationship with fried pork lard, which are enjoyed as sarma, until now reserved for sit-down Albanians and Goranis who own cake andW friends, which is just the same in is called “Badnje vece” and on Badnje church. And this makes the celebration the boreks perfected by the Ottomans these smart, chubby animals started a snack. Finally, of course, whole pork meals, has received a fast-food iteration shops around the country. Serbia. But the Serbs celebrate Christ- vece you go to church. In the Nether- even more personal. After the service 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 11 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE About town with… Getting Into the Winter

SRDJAN GARCEVIC Spirit in Belgrade

Srdjan Garcevic is a It’s official – winter writer, coordinating editor of Belgrade has started – so Insight, and the head for the skating founder of the Nutshell Times rinks and ski slopes blog and Pokre- taci podcast. – or just stroll round Traditional house in Pirot. Photo: Wikicommons/Mazbln Golubac fortress. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic MORNING some of the city’s

I am an early riser, and cosy winter mar- as I recently discovered the kets and buy some joys of working out, I like to be active as soon as I wake up. In the summer, I trinkets. love cycling or running by the Danube. How- ever, when it gets cooler, I go to the Iron Re- Fabian public Gym (Bulevar despota Stefana 68c). VENDRIG I often grab my breakfast there – a protein inter this year treat – and head for coffee at my local café – officially starts Uzitak (Hilandarska 4). on December 21, when the On weekends, my family and I have a tradi- solstice oc- tion of going for Belgrade’s best croissants curs, which is at Mandarina (Gracanicka 16) and grab- alsoW the shortest day of the year in the bing cappuccinos at nearby Koffein (Cara Northern hemisphere. For some, this Lazara 13). Every once in a while, ideally on is a time to stay inside, close to the fire, Sombor. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Novi Pazar’s Hotel Vrbak. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic cold, grey lazy days, I let myself go and have but others use this time to get out and cheese burek at my local bakery, Micic (Svet- about and enjoy winter activities. Al- ogorska 48) and wash it down with yoghurt. though the weather in recent years has not always made everyone feel like it really was winter, a range of activities AFTERNOON on offer in Belgrade can help you get Serbia’s Must-See you into the winter spirit.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS Luckily, I am quite flexible with my work, so & DECORATIONS Tourist Sites for 2019 often I can spend my afternoons doing what I love most: walking around Belgrade and One easy activity is to stroll around taking photos. My favourite route is from the city and take in all the (controver- away, while in the summer the nature was built by the Ottomans in the 15th NOVI PAZAR central Belgrade to Gardos in Zemun, past sial) Christmas decorations. Several From gigantic PIROT AND STARA park offers some of the best hikes in Century when it was one of the first ar- the Museum of Contemporary Art and the of the best are to be found in Tasma- PLANINA NATURE PARK Serbia, with many picturesque water- tillery fortresses in the Balkans. It was The unofficial capital of the Sandzak Friendship Park. I also enjoy checking out the jdan park, Oblicev venac street and, of Christmas market in central Belgrade. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic paintings to falls and rivers. also abandoned in the late 19th Century region, which hugs the Serbian border city’s galleries and museums. Eugster (Viline course, Belgrade’s main street, Knez A small town on the border with The city itself is also remarkable for but remained a popular destination with Montenegro, Novi Pazar offers a Vode BB) in the old docks usually has great Mihailova. the home to the Belgrade ice-hockey ing skiing. To practise your skiing skills, ancient fortresses, Bulgaria, Pirot punches way above its its recently renovated fortress, Mom- because of a ferry connecting it to the unique mix of traditions and architec- contemporary art, and I also like the Muse- On and around there you can find clubs Partizan, Red Star, OHK Belgrade, you can use the ski simulator, near Ada weight in terms of its cultural signifi- cilov Grad, and some of the prettiest town of Banatska Palanka on the other ture from Ottoman times, kept thanks um of Applied Arts (Vuka Karadzica 18). Christmas market stalls where you can Tasmajdan and Avala. Ciganlija (skitrack.rs). there is much cance in Serbia. Ottoman Balkan houses in Serbia, such side of the Danube. to its Bosniak majority and medieval buy small gifts for loved ones. There In 2011, the stadium had to be recon- For real outdoor skiing in Belgrade, th more to Serbia Since the 15 Century and through- as the one housing the Museum of heritage. It was the first centre of the During workdays, I often meet my friends are also stalls selling typical Christmas structed as it was in poor condition by you have to go to the Kosutnjak Park, at out Ottoman times, the town was fa- Ponišavlje (Nikole Pasica 49). medieval Serbian state of Raska. snacks. Try some traditional Serbian then. Reconstruction work finished in 17, Kneza Viseslava. There you will find SOMBOR AND BEZDAN and colleagues at Mornar (Decanska 2) for mous for the production of colourful The city’s cultural allure is under- favourites, such as grilled meatballs, April 2016. In the winters since then, the Ski staza Aleksander, or Aleksander than Belgrade and cevapi. However, if I have more time I like kilim rugs made on special looms by GOLUBAC AND RAM – Often neglected due to Novi Sad’s scored by the fact that the municipal- cevapcici, or grilled meat, pljeskavica. Tasmajdan has regained its old status ski slope. The slope is 200 meters long to go to my favourite kafanas - Mala Slavija local women, which were exported ANCIENT FORTRESSES ON hipness and Subotica’s beautiful art- ity of Novi Pazar has the largest con- Mulled wine and hot plum brandy, as the largest open-air city ice skating and a ski lift will bring you back up. Of Novi Sad. (Makenzijeva 2), Durmitor (Omladinskih throughout the former Ottoman Em- THE DANUBE nouveau architecture, nearby Sombor, centration of UNESCO-protected sites known as sumadijski caj, can be bought rink in town and is open to ice-skaters course, there needs to be some snow Srdjan GARCEVIC pire. Pirot kilims are easily recognisable tucked away in the eastern part of the in the country. The oldest of them, the Brigada 16a) and Uzelac (Pastroviceva 2). as well. There is another Christmas vil- from December 15 to February 17. to enjoy the real ski experience! After for their stylised geometric motifs and Medieval enthusiasts rejoice: Golu- Backa region, is a quintessential Panno- beautifully irregular Church of the Holy lage with market stalls near the St Sava It is much safer to skate on a proper skiing you can have lunch, dinner or n the past few years, tourism the predominance of fiery red hues, bac Fortress, which majestically guards nian town. The city’s well preserved old Apostles Peter and Paul, was originally cathedral as well. rink than on the Danube or Sava rivers, a drink at one of the restaurants next has been booming in Serbia and are increasingly coming back into the entrance to the Danube’s Iron Gates core is characterised by typical Habs- founded by the Romans in the 4th Cen- EVENING of course. These rivers used to freeze in to the ski slope. An added bonus is the thanks to the country’s better fashion in Serbia. gorge, which traces Serbia’s border with burg architecture and wide avenues, tury and became the site of the first HAVE FUN ON THE ICE the past, and it happened in the winters unusual view over Belgrade. For more connectivity with the rest of the Besides kilims, Pirot is also known Romania, will be finally fully open to lined with bodjos (hackberry trees). bishopric in present-day Serbia in the of 2012 and 2017, too, but it is no longer information, check their Facebook world. According to the Serbian for its colourful pottery, hard cheese the public in April 2019, after a through Sombor’s beautiful early 19th Cen- 9th Century, making it the oldest church Unlike most of my friends I’m not a clubber A more sporting option to get into a regular occurrence. Even when the page, aleksandarclub.skistaza, or call: Statistical Office, between Janu- (kackavalj) and distinctive “flattened” renovation financed by the EU. Al- tury baroque town hall houses Ser- in the country. and hate going out – Belgrade’s nightlife is the winter mood is ice skating. This is a rivers are frozen and the ice is thick, 011 3549740. Iary and September almost two million sausage, all of which earned its citizens though the early history of Golubac is bia’s largest painting by area which A bit further away are the old Ras completely wasted on me. popular activity in Belgrade in winter to skating is still not advisable as the ice people visited the country, a growth of a reputation for industriousness as well mostly unknown, with recent findings depicts the 1697 Battle of Senta, when fortress - which also has Roman origins If I am seeing friends, we tend to hang out judge by the number of temporary ice- is usually not flat due to the currents of SKI RESORTS NEAR TOWN about 11 per cent compared to the same as stinginess, which makes them the indicating Byzantine and even Roman the Habsburg Army decisively de- and was the first centre of the Nemanjic in Zaokret, Sprat (both in Cetinjska 15) or skating rinks. This may even come as a the river. And don’t ever skate on such time period in 2017. butt of many jokes in Serbia. presence, it was first mentioned as a feated the Ottomans in a surprise at- dynasty in the 12th Century – and two surprise, as Serbs are not usually con- big rivers alone, naturally. Even if there is no snow in Belgrade, Meduza (Gospodar-Jevremova 6). Occa- While most of those visiting the coun- Although crafts and food are the Hungarian fortification in the 14th Cen- tack. The giant canvas, which is 40 majestic medieval monasteries, Djurd- sidered an ice-skating nation compared Indoor ice-skating is possible in the there may well be some of the white sionally, we go for dinner somewhere relaxed try stay in its two main cities, Belgrade city’s main draw, its position at the tury. square metres, is the work of Hungar- jevi Stupovi and Sopocani, renowned to, say, the Dutch, Canadians, Russians, Hala Pionir (Pioneer hall), which opened stuff at the mountain resort of Di- like Majstor and Margarita (Balkanska 16) or and Novi Sad, there are many other ex- foothills of the Balkan mountain range Since then, the fortress has ex- ian-German painter Ferencz Eisenhut for their frescoes and mix of Western Norwegians, Swiss or Slovenians. on March 12 1978. The ice-skating season vcibare, in western Serbia, southeast of Cevap kod Dekija (Strahinjica Bana 71). citing sites around the country. In order make it a great base to explore the pris- changed hands multiple times be- and was commissioned for the 1896 and Eastern Roman architecture. However, ice skating in Serbia has a starts in October and lasts until Feb- Valjevo, 980 metres above sea level. to help you decide, here are four places tine nature of the Stara Planina Nature tween the Ottomans and the Habs- celebration of one thousand years of The city itself, however, retained real history to it. That more or less start- ruary, according to the website www. The highest mountain here is Mt that should be on your must-see list in Park. The increasingly popular Babin burgs. It was finally abandoned in the Hungarian settlement in the Pannon- its Ottoman-era character. The most Although I don’t do it as often as I would like ed in the Tasmajdan stadium, close to tasmajdan.rs. Recreational ice-skating Maljen, whose peak, Kraljev Sto, is 1,104 Serbia for 2019. Zub ski resort is about hour and a half late 19th Century and partially flooded ian plains. remarkable monuments from those to, I love going to the cinema, especially to the park of the same name. For many is possible on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, meters above sea level. Divcibare is between 1964 and 1972 during the con- Although ambling around Sombor times are its Altun-Alem Mosque, dat- catch some of Belgrade’s great film festivals: Belgraders it is a place that conjures Thursdays and Fridays from 8.30pm to about 115 kilometers’ drive from Bel- struction of two hydroelectric dams on can easily fill one day, the city’s other ing from the early 16th Century and the Auteur Film Festival (in November) or Fest up fond memories of the Sixties and 10.30pm. At weekends you can ice skate grade. It takes about two hours. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ the Danube. Nevertheless, even in its draw is its proximity to Bezdan, also Old (Isa-Bey’s) Hammam, which is cur- (in Feburary). I love central cinemas, like Seventies, when people came together from 11am to 12.30, from 2pm to 3.30pm There are several slopes and numer- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” diminished state, its ten towers, which called “Water Town” due to the large rently serving as a café in the summer Dvorana Kulturnog Centra (Kolarceva 4), here to skate in winter. Construction and from 8.30pm to 10.30pm. The Hala ous accommodation options. This is RESTAURANT KOVAČ protrude from a steep hill, give it a fairy- number of waterways surrounding it. and awaiting renovation. Dom Sindikata (aka Kombank Dvorana, De- of the Tasmajdan stadium began in Pionir is at 39, Carlija Caplina. an ideal place for a short break, and modern ethno restaurant tale appearance. This small town, nestled in the woods Aficionados of Socialist Yugoslav ar- canska 14) or Tuckwood (Kneza Milosa 7a). 1952. It was opened ceremonially on Temporary open-air ice-skating rinks you can even do it in a day. For current Some 40 kilometres to the west of on the border with Hungary and Croa- chitecture will love Novi Pazar’s Hotel January 24, 1954. It was built on the site will be available from December 21 on- ski conditions, check the website of Golubac rises another great fortress of tia, is celebrated for its pristine nature Vrbak, which combines modernism Another great alternative to going out for of a former quarry after which it was wards at Nikola Pasic square and at Ada the resort on: www.divcibareskiresort. yore, Ram, which received a face-lift in which, on warm summer days, makes with Ottoman motifs. named. “Tas” is “stone” and “majdan” is (near the Ada stone city monument). com. me is hitting a sauna and swimming. My 2018 thanks to funding from the Turk- it perfect for hiking, cycling and swim- However, there is much more to Novi “mine” in Turkish. These facilities are only open if the Even if you do not like skiing that favourite sport centres are Tasmajdan (Ilija ish Cooperation and Coordination ming. Pazar than its buildings: it is a lively, young In winter from 1953 to 1977, before the weather is right, so check beforehand. much, you can always walk around Garasinana 24) and Milan Gale Muskati- Agency (TIKA). The word about Bezdan’s beauty is city with amazing food. When there, Pionir ice skating hall opened in 1978, the village and enjoy the winter won- rovic (Tadeusa Koscuskog 63). If I have to Although older fortification at the slowly getting out, so make sure you make sure you taste the local variety of the Tasmajdan stadium was mostly TAKE TO THE SLOPES derland – which is an experience on same spot have been mentioned in check it out before it gets overrun by cevapi (meat balls) at Kod Jonuza (Rifata go out, then I prefer craft beer places like used for ice hockey. In 1954, 1955 and its own – and wind down in a restau- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 historical records dating as far as the weekenders from Belgrade and Novi Bucevica) or roasted nuts and seeds at Kas (Pregrevica) or Kompas (Bulevar Peka 1957, the Yugoslavia ice hockey cham- Apart from skating, other winter rant or café, dreaming of the coming www.restorankovac.com 9th Century, Ram’s present structure Sad. Prva Pazarska Spicara (28 Novembra). Dapcevica 240). pionships were held here. It was also sports are on offer in Belgrade, includ- spring. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 13 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE Party Your Way Into 2019

Photo: Pixabay

Choose your ZAPPA BARKA Dance Party, a joint project of five intimate club atmosphere with DJs Tickets: 1,800 dinars (~15 euros) at the STRAFTA CLUB house party, the party at Gajba is going VIP ones. Tickets for just the NYE party snacks, the club has booked Amon Lemon Chili is throwing a special New recreational dance schools with the Prema, Rokam and Lea Davogic. With door or through www.eventim.rs to be a lot like what you’re already used cost 1,190 dinars (~10 euros). Band, a terrific live band playing the Year’s party with the Freak Out band, outfit and get If you’re up for a party on a boat that is idea of connecting the schools and their unique energy and carefully Info and reservations: 063 8287928 Strafta Club is organizing the big to in this venue. DJ Iron and Milos Rados most popular radio hits, as well as DJ an amazing live cover band playing all far less glamorous and more alternative offering dancers a chance to explore selected R’nB and hip-hop tunes, the “Imagine 2019 Party” in downtown aka FUNKcioner are behind the decks, Hangar, Zorza Klemansoa 39 Joker, with a special surprise after your favourite hits, both domestic and those tickets. and casual than its Belgrade riverside all dance styles in one place. For 3,000 DJs are going to take you on a journey 20/44 Belgrade, right next to the serving steamy funk beats all night. 10pm – 7am midnight. foreign. counterparts, then you might want to dinars (~25 euros), which is the price of through all of the biggest dance music Beogradjanka skyscraper. The large Info and reservations: 063 333344 From intimate give Zappa Barka a shot. Music will be admission, you get unlimited drinks hits of the last few decades. Entrance is If you want to welcome the New Year foyer is transforming itself into a Gajba, Karadjordjeva 44 94, Savski Kej bb For 3,000 dinars (~25 euros) you get provided by the popular Belgrade DJs and food, a large dance podium and free like any other night in the club, but on this legendary Belgrade splav dance hall and the club itself, located 9pm – 5pm KOLOS 10pm – 6pm unlimited food (and Lemon Chili is clubs to busy Begefank and BKO, known for an eclectic great music to dance to. show up early if you want to get in. on the Sava, your hosts for the night in the basement, is where all the Price: 1,200 dinars (~10 euros) Tickets: 3,500 dinars (~29 euros) famous for amazing food) and drinks, but knowledgeable mix of genres and As for the dress code, guests are will be Sacha Mambo with Trole and craziness will be going down. There Info and reservations: 069 83 00 770 One of the most famous psy-trance acts, Info and reservations: 060 222152 as well as champagne at midnight. splavs and vibes, from hip-hop and R’nB to funk and expected to get creative in their DOT, Francuska 6 Vlada Rus. Sacha Mambo is one of will be three party stages: the Main Talamasca, is performing as part of the break-beats. The splav is popular and the selection of masks and outfits. The 10pm – 6am those special DJs who always seem Hall or Stage 1 with current club hits HANGAR 18th edition of the Star Gate New Year’s LEMON CHILI Lemon Chili, Savski kej bb Venetian-style entrance fee is cheap, so get your tickets theme is a combination of the Venetian Info and reservations: 063 33 33 44 to find strange connections between selected by Marko Intruder and DJ parties, taking place at the popular 10pm – 6pm on time if you want to go. Obviously, Carnival style and dance outfits from completely opposing styles. Expect Dulex; the Strafta Club or Stage 2 with The massively popular Matador is Kolos splav. The local Goasapiens crew One of the most colorful and cheerfully Tickets: 3,000 dinars (~25 euros) carnivals, it’s all drinks are not included in the ticket price. different eras, such as the Roaring DRUGSTORE literally everything, from cosmic afro cool alternative hits by the legendary preparing a spectacular live act for of Aquapipe, Sivi and Albert will be decorated splavs on the Danube, Info and reservations: 060 0141 341 ‘20s and the Charleston, the twist and dub to new beat, early rave and Marko Gangbanger and DJ Ognjen and the sixth edition of the Central Dance joining Talamasca for this occasion. offered on the Zappa Barka, Usce bb of the 1950s, disco of the 1970s, and For the New Year’s Party, Drugstore will new wave, post-punk, kraut and weird the Disco Room; or Stage 3 conceived Event series of parties in Hangar by the 9pm – 6am contemporary styles. There will be remain as uncompromising as ever in electronics. Trole and Vlada Rus will as a mingling venue with disco beats. Port of Belgrade, which just so happens Kolos, Bulevar Vojvode Bojovica bb last night of 2018 Tickets: 500 dinars (~4 euros) champagne at midnight! terms of styles and musical selection. be spinning their usual mix of post- to be taking place on New Year’s Eve. 10pm – 6pm in the capital. Info and reservations: 064 56 56 477 The club is opening all its rooms for disco, proto-house, garage and other Strafta, Admirala Geprata 14 For this occasion, Matador will Presale tickets available through Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59 this special night and the performers decadent club music. 9:30pm – 5am be joined by probably the most Eventim and Gigstix from 1,190 dinars DORCOL PLATZ 9pm – 5am for the night include Phase Fatale, Tickets: 1,600 – 2,000 dinars (~13-17 popular DJ in this region, Marko (~10 euros) to 1,490 dinars (~12 euros). Unlimited food and drinks JASSS, Red Light Radio Boys, Max Presale tickets at Kaldrma Bar and euros) Milosavljevic, and DJ Flooder from Info and reservations: 066 222152 This year, Dorcol Platz is organising Tickets: 3,000 dinars (~25 euros) Abysmal and DJ Soulseek and Mai 20/44: 1,000 dinars (~8 euros) Info and reservations: 062 230 017 Macedonia. something a little different – a Info and reservations: 062 832 5207 Nestor. Expect techno, synth pop and Tickets at the door: 1,200 dinars (~10 The limited set of tickets for all four BOAT 94 masquerade. Under the slogan “Let’s various eclectic jungle beats. euros) GAJBA days of the Central Dance Event 2019 welcome the New Year with dancing, DOT KLUB Club 20/44, Usce bb is already in presale via Eventim and If you’re up for a fancier, dressier party masks and champagne,” Dorcol Platz Drugstore, Bulevar 10pm – 06am Those looking for a New Year’s party Gigstix at the promotional price of to see off 2018, check out Boat 94, one is promising a magical night. The For the last party night of 2018, Dot Despota Stefana 115 Info and reservations: in a more intimate club setting should 2,790 dinars (~23 euros) for regular of the most elite splavs in Belgrade. event is being organised by The Big is organizing a big dance party in an 11pm – 8am 063 84 84 444 check out Gajba. Conceptualized as a tickets and 3,990 dinars (~33 euros) for In addition to unlimited drinks and 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 15 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

Large Sculptures at Student City Cultural Centre Sounds of Music Over the New Year Nikola Kosic and Katarina spin around the rink, it costs about one Jocic, students of the Acad- As ever, the euro to rent skates. The rink is open emy of Applied Arts, will be Arts in brief capital is putting from 10am to 10pm. displaying their larger format OPEN HEART SQUARE sculptures at the Student on a plethora of City Cultural Centre (Bulevar musical events The famed Open Heart events will Zorana Djindjica 179) on be even grander and more open this December 21, starting at to hustle in 2019, year, with the Square taking over the 7pm. Entrance is free. outdoors and Belgrade municipality of Zemun as well. The traditional Open Heart Square X Vitamin indoors, from will be located at the Student Square in Celebrates First front of the Philosophy Faculty, where pop to classical there will be musical events every night Birthday with from 6pm to 10pm until February 2. Exhibition – not to mention The locations of events will vary. Some other stuff, such will take place in Knez Mihailova Street The X Vitamin Gallery (Stu- near Obilic Square, some in front of the dentski trg 11) is celebrating as skating rinks Belgrade Cultural Centre and others in its first birthday on Decem- and foodie front of the faculty itself. ber 22 with an exhibition In Zemun, all of the events will take place at Magistratski Square. named Fem and Nem by markets. The programme will cater to children Irena Kovac. The exhibition until 3pm but will later feature an and celebration starts at NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERTS excellent assortment of live concerts 8pm. Entrance is free. over the course of January, including As always, the biggest concert events performances by the Vasil Hadzimanov Kolo Ensemble at of the New Year celebrations will take Band, the Saint Luis Band and a James Kolarac place on the streets of Belgrade, which Brown Tribute band. Nine Lesser Known people flock to with enthusiasm, If you want to head over to Zemun despite the freezing cold. This year, the on the first day of the new year, you’ll The celebrated tradi- festivities will last for three days, from be treated to the World Street Food Fest The main NYE party will traditionally take place in front of the Serbian Parliament Building. Photo: Beta/Milos Miskov tional folk music and dance Belgrade Museums to Visit December 30 to January 1. as well, where you can try breakfast, ensemble Kolo is holding The stage will once again be set up in kick into high gear again, with popular POSH SOUNDS soprano Elena Mosuk and the concert lunch and dinner options from every their traditional New Year’s Museum of Serbian Ortodox Church Photo: Srdjan Garcevic front of the parliament. On December crossover hip-hop artists Rasta and AT SAVA CENTAR starts at 9pm with the Children’s region of the country. concert on December 26 at 30, the show starts at 9pm and will Sendidah, along with Grampohonedzie Philharmonic. the Ilija M Kolarac Endow- Belgrade is MUSEUM OF JOVAN CVIJIC MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART an overview of Orthodox iconography include concerts by popular Serbian and Disciples. Another Belgrade tradition is the OPEN HEART STREET ment (Studentski trg 5) at 8 and art in general. The collection con- pop-rock band S.A.R.S. and two regular New Year’s concert at Sava Centar, THE ICE PARK home to a range Jovan Cvijic was a notable geogra- The first, and so far only, museum of tains 165 icons dating from the 15th to guests from London, Stereo MCs, and BELGRADE NEW which is for people who like to ring Another tradition that is more than pm. Tickets cost 300 dinars of specialist pher, ethnologist, head of the Univer- African art and culture in Southeastern the 20th Centuries, from Serbia, Mon- Rudimental. YEAR FESTIVAL in the New Year with good music – Once again, an outdoor ice skating 50 years old, Open Heart Street, takes (~2.5 euros). sity of Belgrade and many other things. Europe (Andre Nikolica 14) represents tenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Italy, Greece Naturally, the actual New Year’s without having to brave the cold. This rink will be set up on Nikola Pasic place in Svetogorska Street every year. museums, many This erudite man left an impressive the legacy of Veda and Zdravko Pecar, and Russia. It is the largest single collec- Eve celebration will be geared more A very family friendly option year, the title of the event is “Otmeno” Square that will be open from It is always popular among families and Graphic Collective of which are just collection of various items that he col- a couple who spent decades travelling tion of icons in Serbia, displayed in the towards locals, with popular singers for wintery fun can be found at the (Posh) and will featuring an interesting December 21 until January 29. There friends, once they’re done sleeping in Takes Over Remont lected over his life during his many across Africa on diplomatic and consu- authentic setting of an “old Belgrade” Sasa Kovacevic, Baja and Haris Belgrade Fair, which is hosting the 58th combination of blues and classical will be an accompanying programme after a long night of celebration. Gallery as fascinating travels. The museum is located in his lar missions. apartment in the heart of the city (Uzun Dzinovic taking the stage, as well as annual Belgrade New Year Festival music performances. with workshops and performances The event stems from an old old home in the Kopitareva Gradina The museum houses a remarkable Mirkova 5). Tickets cost 200 dinars (~1.5 Serbia’s most popular brass band, the until December 30. Expect musical Classical pieces will be performed in for children and more family-friendly tradition of the actors of the Atelje 212 as their larger district (Jelene Cetkovic 5). collection of religious, cult, ceremo- euros). Dejan Petrovic Big Band. performances, concerts, plenty of great the main hall. A stage will be set up in concerts from people like Lena theatre switching roles with the waiting The Remont Gallery (Marsala counterparts. The house itself is an architectural nial, decorative and everyday objects, If you’re still not sick of the streets, good and drink, an ice skating rink, the second hall where blues musicians Kovacevic, Neverne Bebe and Makao staff of the nearby Srpska Kafana every Birjuzova 7) has offered its gem, boasting a carefully curated gar- instruments and garments that they MUSEUM OF AVIATION you can head over to the stage again at children’s programmes and a huge will play – a bit of a twist compared Band. January 1 and serving them all day. venue to the Graphic Col- David GALIC den with rare plants as well as authen- brought back from Africa. As a found- around 2pm on Sunday for some light market of handmade goods and other to the jazz programme that usually DJs will take to the stage at 9pm Expect good music, good food, smiling lective, which lost their old tic furniture and home décor. As such, it ing member of the Non-Aligned Move- Located off the beaten track, outside classical music and children’s songs. excellent gift ideas offered at a discount accompanies the classical concert. The every night as well. Entrance to the Ice faces and a very crowded Svetogorska venue in 2017. The last day any culture fans is a window not only into the scholarly ment, the former Yugoslavia was on the city proper, the Museum of Avia- However, the night programme will price for the festive season. night will start with the Romanian-born Park is free, but if you want to take a Street. of the traditional year’s end will remember material that Cvijic left behind but also friendly terms with most newly in- tion is the first thing most visitors see exhibition of small prints 2018 for the fact into turn-of-the-century Serbia and dependent African countries, so the when they fly into Nikola Tesla Airport. created by the Graphic that two popular Europe. Tickets cost 200 dinars (~1.5 collection continued to grow through Located in a stunning spherical glass museums that euros). various donations and gifts. Today, in building, the museum features notable KST Masquerade Get ready for Collective is on January 12. were closed for addition to the permanent and tempo- examples of national and international Back for 45th Year ‘umble legends Uriah Heep Entrance is free. Ma very long time finally reopened – the MUSEUM OF THE SERBIAN rary displays, the museum puts on reg- civilian and military aviation, with ac- National Museum and the Museum of ORTHODOX CHURCH ular cultural, artistic and ethnographic tual aircraft (gliders, helicopters, jets) he Traditional KST Masquerade is always one of the ritish hard rock legends Uriah Heep are playing on Febru- Traditional Contemporary Art. events. Tickets cost 150 dinars (~1 euro). arranged in and around the enormous biggest winter parties in Belgrade and this year ary 5 at Sava Centre (Milentija Popovica 9) as part of a But if you have already been to both Those curious about the Serbian Or- space. Orchestra Concert at is its 45th edition. The party is on December 22 European tour promoting their new record “Living the and are seeking more high culture in thodox Church, its teachings, iconog- The permanent exhibition also in- Sava Center JEVREM at KST (Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73) and this Dream”. Uriah Heep have been around for almost 50 2019, here are some less famous but raphy and notable figures, should pop GRUJIC’S HOUSE cludes engines and various other parts T B year’s theme will be “circus-related,” so expect to see lots years and carved out one of the cornerstones of hard rock mu- equally interesting Belgrade museums into the Museum of the Serbian Ortho- of aircraft, as well as blueprints and oth- Like every year, the RTS of clowns in general. sic with their seminal album, “Very ‘eavy…Very ‘umble”. to check out. dox Church, in the Patriarchate (Kralja Known as the “Museum of Serbian er documentation. The latest addition Symphonic Orchestra and As always, most of Belgrade’s most popular local rock Together with Black Sabbath and Deep Purple, Uriah Heep Petra 5). history, art, diplomacy, and the avant- to the collection is a Boeing 737-800 bands will perform, including the Orthodox Celts, Prljavi are considered crucial in the creation of the unique British style Choir are throwing a special IVO ANDRIC This valuable collection consists garde,” Jevrem Grujic’s House (Sveto- flight simulator that visitors can take Inspektor Blaza, Nicim Izazvan, Mikri Mouse, Sevdah Baby, of heavy metal. Tickets for the Belgrade concert are available, New Year’s concert, with MEMORIAL MUSEUM of rare manuscripts, illuminated and gorska 17) is an important historic for a spin for 2,000 dinars (~17 euros). Begefank, Rahmanee, De Flow and Nemesis and many more. with prices ranging from 1,600 dinars (~13 euros) to 3,200 dinars special guest soloists and printed church books, lithographs, monument and the first building ever The regular ticket price is 350 dinars (~3 Tickets for the party cost 1,500 dinars (~13 euros). (~26 euros) depending on seating. maestro Bojan Sudjic con- The celebrated Yugoslav Nobel Prize robes, sacral items made of precious placed under the protection of the In- euros) for Serbian residents and 800 di- ducting. The concert is on winner – most famous in the English- metals, wood, leather and mother of stitute for the Protection of Belgrade’s nars (~7 euros) for non-residents. speaking word for his book Bridge on pearl, embroidery, stamps, histori- Cultural Heritage. January 14 at Sava Centre the Drina – is one of the most cherished cal documents, charters, as well as Grujic was a prominent turn-of-the- AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM (Milentija Popovica 9) at cultural figures in the region. paintings and portraits of Church dig- century diplomat, politician and mod- 8pm. Tickets cost from 800 Born in 1892 in Travnik, in Bosnia- nitaries. Tickets cost 200 dinars (~1.5 ernist, and his house was the principal One of the newest museums in Bel- dinars (~7 euros) to 1,500 Herzegovina, when Bosnia was part of euros). meeting place for Belgrade’s cultural grade, but also one of the most popular, dinars (~13 euros) depend- Austria-Hungary, Andric spent a lot of and political elite at the time. The col- the Automobile Museum is located in ing on seating. time in Serbia and Belgrade, which is MILITARY MUSEUM lection is divided into five segments: Majke Jevrosime 30, in a large garage where he died in 1975. Some 40 years fine arts, applied arts, old and rare called The Modern Garage, which in ‘Art Lowers Weight’ ago, a museum to him opened in the The Military Museum is one of the weapons, and literary and archival ma- itself represents a cultural and historic apartment where he lived from the late- oldest museums in Belgrade. It was terial. The house is a museum item in it- asset for the city. by Zarko Aleksic 1950s until his death. founded in 1878 and has been located self as well; the façade was done by the Museum founder Bratislav Petkovic The museum (Andricev Venac 8) in its current premises in the heart of Italian architect Domenico D’Andrea. has amassed an incredible collection Artist Zarko Aleksic is preserves the layout of the home that the Kalemegdan Fortress since 1956. Jevrem Grujic’s House also regularly of some 100 historic cars, about half of displaying his art installation this famous writer shared with his wife, The complex includes indoor galleries hosts temporary exhibitions by promi- which have been moved to the Automo- consisting of photographs, Milica Babic. The drawing room, study with permanent and temporary dis- nent artists, as well as balls, tea parties bile Museum. These rare old automo- Croatian Electro Hard to classify Bestbeat Play White Album Stray Dogg at KC Grad Artist Zarkoff at KC Grad Frenchman at Drugstore and the salon contain some of Andric’s plays on various military and histori- and similar events. Tickets cost 200 di- biles offer valuable insight into the his- drawings, text, and collage Turkish Dark Wave at Elektropionir work at the Studentski Grad own belongings, such as books, notes, cal subjects. The outdoor collection nars (~1.5 euros). tory of automotive technology and are Serbia’s absolute best Beatles imper- Arguably the best indie/Americana Croatian synthpop and electro Unclassifiable French producer, letters, stationery and other interesting consists of guns and cannons from 18th a must-see for every car enthusiast. The Cultural Centre (Bulevar sonators, Bestbeat, are playing a very band in the region right now, Stray Dogg musician Zarkoff is finally coming to Excellent Turkish dark wave, post-punk radio host and record label boss Ivan objects. The items are displayed in a and 20th Centuries, tanks, armed vehi- SEKULIC museum also features various items special concert at Dom Omladine are playing on December 22 at Grad Belgrade to play a live show at Grad Cul- band She Past Away will be playing a Smagghe will play Drugstore (Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179) on chronological manner that allows for a cles, cannons, and rocket launchers, COLLECTION OF ICONS such as lanterns, horns, gas pumps, post- (Makedonska 22) on December 21, Cultural Centre (Brace Krsmanovic 4. tural Centre (Brace Krsmanovic 4) on concert in Elektropionir (Cetinjska 15) Despota Stefana 115) for the first time, December 25. Entrance to real glimpse into the life and the works as well as vessels and torpedoes from ers, license plates, parking meters, as when they will play the celebrated They will promote their new album December 28, starting at 11pm. Tickets on December 29, starting at 9pm. Local accompanied by 33.10.3402 and Matej the exhibition, entitled “Art of this exceptional figure. Tickets cost World War I and II. Entrance costs 200 The beautiful collection of valuable well as various car tools and equipment. “White Album” in its entirety. The con- and play some of their most popular are available at 550 dinars (~4.5 euros) support will be provided by the electro- Rusmir. The party on January 12 starts cert starts at 8pm and tickets cost 800 older tunes. Tickets cost 500 dinars (~4 and will cost 700 dinars (~6 euros) at rock/new wave band Sputnik. Presale at 11 pm. Tickets will cost about 600 200 dinars (~1.5 euros). dinars (~1.5 euros). icons from the Sekulic Collection offers Tickets cost 200 dinars (~1.5 euros). Lowers Weight,” is free. dinars (~7 euros). euros). the door. tickets cost 1,500 dinars (~13 euros). dinars (~ 5 euros). 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 21, 2018 FESTIVE GUIDE Belgrade Insight Team Recommends Finding your way around Belgrade’s vibrant food and going out scene can be tough without a local guiding you. That is why the Belgrade Insight team decided to compile a list of their favourite hangouts to help you have a fantastic holiday season in the city!

BEST CAFE BEST FISH RESTAURANT • JaM, Knez Miletina 25 • Pekara Rankovic, Brace Kovac 50 BEST CLUB • Cvece Zla, Nevesinjska 12 • Pekara Toma, Kolarceva 6-8 • Koffein, Cara Lazara 13 / Cara • Fish Zelenis, Karadjordjeva 2-4 • Kafe Kozmeticar, Radoslava • Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Dusana 65 • Pasa, Kej Oslobodjenja 7, Zemun Grujica 25 BEST BAKERY Stefana 115 • Smokvica, Kralja Petra 73 • Saran, Kej Oslobodjenja 53, Zemun • Bistro Grad Hometown Food, • Ben Akiba, Brace Krsmanovic 6 Uzun Mirkova 5 • Lokal, Alekse Nenadovica 24 • Pekara Micic, Svetogorska 48 • KC Grad Cultural Centre, Brace • Krsmanovic 4 • Przionica D59B, Dobracina 59b BEST VEGETARIAN/LIGHT • Nasa Pekara, Kajmakcalanska 5, RESTAURANT • BEST COFFEE • Supernatural/Gastronaut Crveni Krst • Bar (non-smoking), Gospodar • Pekara Aca, Svetogorska 25 , Kosancicev Venac 2 • Koffein, Cara Lazara 13 / Cara Jevremova 23 • Mayka • Mezestoran Dvoriste, Svetogorska Dusana 65 • Pekara Rankovic, Brace Kovac 50 46 • Uzitak, Hilandarska 4 • Sarlo, Dobracina 59b BEST TRADITIONAL • JazzaYoga, Bulevar Kralja • Przionica D59B, Dobracina 59b RESTAURANT Aleksandra 48 • Lokal, Alekse Nenadovica 24 BEST SPLAV • Super Donkey, Krunska 26 • Kafeterija, Zorza Klemansoa 10 • Dzakarta/Pivnica Tosin Bunar, and several other locations • Brodic na Savi, Savski kej Studentska 1 BEST ROAST RESTAURANT • Aviator Coffee Explorer, Terazije • 20/44, Usce bb • Restoran Durmitor, Omladinskih 28 and several other locations • Slep, Usce bb Brigada 16a • Restoran Uzelac, Pastroviceva 2 • Kafograf, Bulevar Despota Stefana • Pristan, Dunavski bb • Mornar, Decanska 2 • Dascara, Svetolika Rankovica 154, 81 • Restoran Lovac, Alekse Mladenovac BEST BAR Nenadovica 19 • Kafanica, Kneza Viseslava 66a BEST CONTEMPORARY • Kafanica, Kneza Viseslava 66a • Nacionalna Klasa, Usce, Bulevar CAKE SHOP FREE COPY • Restoran Sarajevski, Cara Dusana Mihajla Pupina 4 • Zaokret, Cetinjska 15 32 • Mandarina, Gracanicka 16 • Meduza, Gospodar Jevremova 6 • Stara Hercegovina, Carigradska 36 BEST RESTAURANT GARDEN • Poslasticarnica Suma, Simina 22a • Lift, Cetinjska 15 • Dva Jelena, Skadarska 32 • Ispeci pa Reci, Gundulicev Venac Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Madera, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra BEST BEER BAR • Tri Sesira, Skadarska 29 34 Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade 43 • Fini, Svetozara Miletica 7 Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 BEST ITALIAN • Nacionalna Klasa, Usce, Bulevar • Kas Brewery, Pregrevica 4 Mihajla Pupina 4 BEST TRADITIONAL • Compass Brewery (Kompas Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic • Smokvica Molerova, Molerova 33 • Majstor i Margarita, Balkanska 16 CAKE SHOP Pivo), Kumodraska/Bulevar Peka BIRN editorial team: • Cvece Zla, Nevesinjska 12 • Campania Trattoria, Kneza Sime Dapcevica 240 Marcus Tanner Markovica 10 • Poslasticarnica Bombaj, Bulevar • Dogma Brewery, Radnicka 3 BEST INTERNATIONAL Kralja Aleksandra 208 belgradeinsighteditor@birn. • Pizzagram, Francuska 35 • Samo Pivo, Balkanska 13 FAST FOOD • Poslasticarnica Orijent, • Amici Pizzeria, Nebojsina 8 • Gunners Pub, Brace Jugovica 2a eu.com Balkanska 36 • Fat Boys, Strahinjica Bana 3 Sales & Marketing: Marija BEST NON-EUROPEAN • Poslasticarnica DJ, Svetozara • Burger House, Nikole Spasica 3 Markovica 36 BEST COCKTAIL BAR Petrovic RESTAURANT , Carice • Tel Aviv Hummus House • Poslasticarnica Zlata, Kralja +381 11 4030 302 Milice 3 / Kicevska 21 / Mihajila Milana 56 • Bar Central, Kralja Petra 59 • La Taqueria, Gracanicka 7 Pupina 10/9a • Poslasticarnica Milica, Skadarska • Kultura Bar, Kralja Milutina 4 [email protected] • Istok, Gospodar Jevremova 50 45 • Mama Shelter, Kneza Mihaila 54A Subscription & Distribution: • Marukoshi, Kapetan Misina 37 BEST SERBIAN FAST FOOD • Poslasticarnica Moskva, Terazije Goran Knezevic • Go Sushi, Svetozara Markovica 38 / 20 BEST WINE BAR Djordje Stanojevica 9b / Praska 34 • Cevap kod Dekija, Strahinjica Bana +381 63 562 265 71 BEST ICE CREAM • Pampour Wine Bar, Njegoseva 28a [email protected] BEST FINE DINING • Drama Cevapi, Dositejeva 7a • Grape Wine & Coffee Bar, Printing: POLITIKA stamparija • Mara, Novopazarska 14 , Kralja Petra 58 • Crna Ovca Dositejeva 13 d.o.o. • Madera, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra • McDek, Maksima Gorkog 6 • Sapore Sladoled, Cara Lazara 15 43 • Restoran Sarajevski, Cara Dusana • Moritz Eis, Vuka Karadzica 11 and ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade 32 BEST TRADITIONAL • Ebisu, Studentski Trg 9 several other locations Insight MUSIC PLACE • The Square, Studentski Trg 9 COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Iris - New Balkan Cuisine, BEST BREAKFAST/ BEST BUREK BRUNCH PLACE Sarajevska 54 • Gradimir – Kafana Gradimir Circulation: 2,000 • Tchaikovsky Restaurant, Terazije • Pekara Micic, Svetogorska 48 (Milesevska 42a) • Filter, Kirovljeva 10 20 • Pekara Trpkovic, Nemanjina 32 • Dva Jelena, Skadarska 32

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