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Galerie Noir Sur Blanc, Ben Rahal (store), 75, 80, 87 76, 86 Bergé, Pierre, 26, 40 Index in Guéliz, 76 Bhous, 45, 125 Index See also Accommoda- Islamic Art Museum, Biking, quad, 98 tions and Restaurant 15, 26, 74 Birkemeyer, Frédérique, 91 Khalid Art Gallery, Bob Music, 40, 80, 94 indexes, below. 38, 70, 80, 86 Boccara, Charles, 76, 140, La Qoubba Galerie, 141 A 69, 80, 86 Borj el-Berod, 153 Access-Able Travel Source, Matisse Art Gallery, Botanical gardens 167 76, 86 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, Acrobats, 63 Ministerio del Gusto, 26, 40, 74, 101, 102 Actor’s (club), 125–126 38, 39 Nectarome, 156 Adhan, 3, 21, 61 Musée de Marrakech, Bou Ahmed, 11, 168 African Chic (bar), 114, 133 8, 29, 32, 45, Bô-Zin (supper club), 120, Agafay Desert, 98 68–69 127 Agdal Gardens, 59, 101, Arts and crafts tour, 24–29 Brahim, Ahamed, 87 168 Assalam aleikum, 49 Briouatte, 113 Ahmed el-Mansour, 12, 33, Assouss Argane, 80, 87–88, Brisara, 113 43, 57, 58, 69, 168 149 Bristow, Joanna, 90 Aïcha des Gazelles (festival), Atika (store), 75, 89 Buggy raiding, 98 160 Atlas Karting, 98 Buses, 153, 163 Air travel, 162 Atlas Mountains, 99, 101, Business hours, 165 Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, 157, 163 3–4, 8, 46, 67–68, ATMs, 165 C 145, 168 Au Fil D’Or, 39, 50, 80, 90 Café Arabe, 111, 124 Ali Ben Youssef Mosque, Authentic Morocco, Café des Épices, 166 67, 68 153, 158 Café des Négociants, 124 Allegiance Day, 166 Avenue Mohammed V, 77 Café du Livre, 166 Almohads, 168 Aya’s (store), 27, 90 Café Extrablatt, 16, 120, Almoravid monument, 8 124 Alouites, 168 B Cafés, 124, 125 Amentis (supper club), Bab Agnaou, 13, 43, 57, Caftan (festival), 160 120, 127 168 Caidals, 127 Amir, Noureddine, 91 Bab Debbagh, 66 Calèches, 7, 12, 61, Amlou, 149 Bab Doukkala mosque, 71 163–164 Andalusian gardens, 11 Bab Hmar, 97 Calligraphy, 45 Antiques, 80, 86–87 Bab Jdid, 101 Calling codes, 167 Apartment rentals, 164–165 Babouches, 7, 26, 28, 51, Camel rides, 4, 22, 23, 97, Architecture 80, 90, 91, 144, 152 153 Ali Ben Youssef Badi Palace, 33, 57, 160, Caravan routes, 168 Mosque, 68 168 Carpets, 71, 75, 80, 87 Gare de Marrakech, Bahia Palace, 4, 11–12, 44, Carpet Souk (Criée Berbere), 77, 163 55, 160, 168 7, 20, 28, 50 Koubba Ba’adyin, Balloon flights, 98 Car rentals, 162 8, 45, 46, 68 Banks, 165 Carriages, horse-drawn, Koubba Fatima Bars, 124, 125 102, 163–164 Zohra, 61 Bartering, 51 Casino de Marrakech, 78, Koutoubia, 3, 7, 21, Bathhouses, 22. See also 133 43, 61, 77, 168 Hammams Casinos, 78, 133 Théâtre Royal, 76, Bazar Ben Allal, 87 Celebrity Marrakech tour, 134, 160 Beaches 36–41 COPYRIGHTEDtour of, 42–46 at Essaouira, 151, 153MATERIALCell phones, 161–162 Argan oil, 80, 87, 88, La Plage Rouge, 4, 40, Ceramics, 28, 55 89, 149 120, 128 Chamber of the Twelve Art galleries and museums Nikki Beach, 4, 34–35, Pillars, 43, 58 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, 128 Chater, Nourredine, 76 32–33, 44, 45, Beach parties, 128 Cheno, Bruno, 128 55, 145 Beghrir, 113 Cherakaoui, Larbi, 76 in Essaouira, 152 Benacher, Mustapha, 16 Chez Ali (supper club), Galerie 127, 76, 86 127–128

116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 174174 110/9/090/9/09 110:400:40 PMPM 175 Index Children Cyber cafés, 101, 166 E camel rides for, 22, 23 Cyber Park, 16, 26, 77, 78, Ebookers (website), 142 gardens for, 7, 32, 34, 101, 160, 166 Église des Saints-Martyrs, 78 76, 78 Eid al-Adha, 166 in Green Marrakech, D Eid al-Fitr, 166 101 Damgaard, Frederic, 152 Electricity, 165 hotels catering to, Dancers, High Atlas, 160 Electronics, 51–52 141–143, 145 Dar al Baida pavilion, 101 El Hiba, 169 at Koutoubia, 21, 61 Dar Charkia, 90 Embassies, 165 restaurants for, 110, Dar Chérifa, 32 Emergencies, 165 111, 117 Dar el Bacha Palace, 70, Ensemble Artisanal, 15–16, shopping with, 20, 80, 112 26, 77, 80, 91 89, 91, 93 Darj w ktarf motifs, 7, 43, Entertainment. See Jemaa water parks for, 99 58, 61 el Fna Chouf, 69 Dar M’Nebhi Palace, 29 Es Saadi Gardens and Chouf Fountain, 46, 69 Dars, 27 Resort, 41, 127 Churchill, Winston, 169 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, Essaouira, 4, 29, 99, Ciel d’Afrique, 98 32–33, 44, 45, 55, 145 148–155, 160 Cigognes, 141 Day trips and excursions, Essaouira Bay, 153 Cinema, 39, 133, 161 148–158 Eurolines, 163 Cinéma Eden, 133 Essaouira, 148–155 Exchange rate, 166–167 Cinéma Le Colisée, 39, 133 Oukaïmeden, Cinema Mabrouka, 133 156, 158 F Circuit de la Palmeraie, 102 Ourika Valley, Faith, 169, 170 Circus, open-air. See Jemaa 156–158 Fashion, 38, 39, 50, 75, 80, el Fna Dentists, 63, 165 89–91, 160 City Hall (Hôtel de Ville), 77 Derbs, 13, 144, 164 Fatima hand, 46 Climate, 160, 161 Derb Zaouiat Lakhdar, 67 Feast of the King and the Clubs, 125–127 Diamant Noir (club), 114, People’s Revolution, 166 Consulates, 165 120, 126, 165 Feast of the Throne, 166 Coopérative Artisanal des Diffa, 29, 97 Festivals, 152, 160–161 Marqueteurs, 152 Dining. See also Restaurant Fez, 168 Cornes de gazelle, 62, 75, Index Film, 39, 133, 161 94, 113, 155 best bets, 104 Fish auction, 150 Cornut, Théodore, 151 in Essaouira, 150, 155 Flint, Bert, 27, 55 Cosmetics, 87–89 in Jemaa el Fna, 4, 63, Foundouk al Mizane, 29, 53, Côté Sud, 75, 91 118 80, 92 Coustal, Philippe, 117 maps, 105–109 Foundouks, 20, 70 Crafts, 92–93, 152 in Setti Fatma, Foundouk Sarsar, 38, 53 arts and crafts tour, 157–158 Foundouk Tiwtiw, 29 24–29 at supper clubs, Fountains, 46, 53, 69 best bets, 28, 80 127–128 4L Trophy rally, 161 at Ensemble Artisanal, Dirham, 166–167 Fragrances, 89 15–16, 26, 77, 80, 91 Disabilities, travelers with, French language, 170–173 at foundouks, 20, 29, 167 French occupation, 169 38, 53, 70, 80, 92 Djinn, 152 Friendship Festival, 160 in foundouks, 20, 29, Dobry, Yann, 89 Fruit and Nut Souk (Souk 53, 70 Doctors, 165 Kchacha), 49 at Place des Ferblan- Doors, decorative, 44 Full-day tours tiers (Tinsmith’s Dress, appropriate, 169 one day, 6–9 Square), 13, 21–22, Dried-fruit carts, in Jemaa el two day, 10–13 26–27, 56–57 Fna, 63 three day, 14–16 in Ville Nouvelle neigh- Drinking water, 118, 165 Furans, 4, 56, 67 borhood, 75 Driving, 153, 158, 162–164 Credit cards, 165 Dromedary rides, 4, 22, 23, G Criée Berbère (Carpet 97, 153 Galerie 127, 76, 86 Souk), 7, 20, 28, 50 Dune buggies, 98 Galerie d’Art Damgaard, Crosby, Stills, and Nash, Dyer’s Souk (Souk Seb- 152 169 baghine), 7–8, 52–53, 87 Currency, 162, 166–167 Galerie Noir Sur Blanc, Customs, 165 76, 86

116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 175175 110/9/090/9/09 10:4010:40 PMPM 176 Garden of Paradise, 102 Health, 165 J Gardens Herbal remedies, 20–21, Jad Mahal (supper club), Agdal Gardens, 59, 50, 57, 80, 87–89, 152 128 Index 101, 168 Herboristerie Palais El Jamade (store), 28, 55, 93 Andalusian gardens, 11 Badia, 57, 80, 88 Jardin’Art (festival), 160 at Bahia Palace, 55 Hideous Kinky (film), 38, 53 Jardin el Harti, 76 Cyber Park, 16, 26, 77, High Atlas, 34, 161 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, 26, 78, 101, 160, 166 High Atlas dancers, 160 40, 74, 101, 102 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, Hiking, 157 Jbel Attar, 158 32–33, 44, 45, 55, Historical sites Jbel Toukal, 157 145 Ali Ben Youssef Med- Jellabahs, 7, 28, 89, 90, 91, Es Saadi Gardens and ersa, 3–4, 8, 46, 144 Resort, 41, 127 67–68, 145, 168 Jemaa el Fna, 3, 8–9 Jardin el Harti, 76 Bab Agnaou, 13, 43, dining in, 4, 63, 118 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, 57, 168 entertainment in, 26, 40, 74, 101, 102 Bab Doukkala 21, 134 Koutoubia Gardens, mosque, 71 festivals in, 160, 161 7, 32, 61, 101 Borj el-Berod, 153 lodging in, 144, 146 Menara Gardens, 12, Chouf Fountain, 46, 69 map, 63 34, 101, 168 Dar Chérifa, 32 walking around in, Nectarome, 156 Dar Si Said, 55 60–63, 164 at riads, 4, 35 Koubba Ba’adyin, 8, 45, Jewelry, 28, 29, 39, 50, 51, Gare de Marrakech, 77, 163 46, 68 80, 93, 152 Gay and lesbian travelers, Koubba Fatima Jewelry Souk, at Essaouira, 165 Zohra, 61 152 Gifts, 28, 71, 80, 91–93, 152 ramparts, 43, 62, Jewish quarter (Mellah Gili, Xavier Arnaud, 110 151–152 neighborhood), 54, Ginseng, 88 ramparts at Essaouira, 56–57, 59, 168 Glaoui, Hassan El, 76 151–152 Jnane Tamsna, 102 Gnaoua and World Music Saâdian Tombs, 12, Jones, Robert Trent, 97 Festival, 152, 160 43–44, 58, 168 Juice carts, in Jemaa Gnaoua musicians, 62, 63 Hivernage neighborhood, el Fna, 63 Golf, 97 4, 16, 78, 101 Gommage, 170 Holidays, 165–166 K Grand Balcon du Café Homosexuality, 165 Kasbah Mosque, 57–58 Glacier, 63, 120, 124 Horse-drawn carriages, Kasbah neighborhood, 54, Grand Hotel Tazi (bar), 62, 102, 163–164 57–59, 144, 164, 168 120, 124 Horse riding, 98 Kechmara (lounge), 114, Grand taxis, 158, 164 Hot-air balloon flights, 98 120, 124 Green March, 169 Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), 77 Kefta, 113 Green Marrakech, 100–102 Hotel Les Jardins de la Kessa, 170 Guéliz, 4, 15, 71, 75, 76, Koutoubia, 134 Khalid Art Gallery, 38, 70, 165 Hotels. See Lodging 80, 86 Guelsa, 22 Khamsa, 46 Guetta, David, 126 I Khettara, 102 Guides, 13, 66 Île de Mogador, 149, 150 Kingdom of Heaven (film), Imilchil Marriage Festival, 38, 152 H 161 King Mohammed’s Birthday, Haggling, 51 Immunizations, 165 166 Hammam Ben Youssef, 67 Independence Day, 166 Kite-surfing, 99, 151 Hammams, 8. See also Spas Institut Français, 134 Koran, 102 Es Saadi Gardens and Insurance, 166 Kosybar, 3, 13, 120, Resort, 41, 127 Intensité Nomade, 75, 124–125, 134 etiquette and services, 80, 91 Koubba, 8, 68 22, 170 Internet access, 166 Koubba Ba’adyin, 8, 45, at hotels, 140–146 Islamic Art Museum, 15, 46, 68 La Maison Arabe, 16, 26, 74 Koubba Fatima Zohra, 61 38, 134 Islamic faith, 46, 102, 169, Koutoubia, 3, 7, 21, 43, 61, Harira, 4, 111, 113 170 77, 168 Hassan II, 169 Islamic New Year, 166 Koutoubia Gardens, 7, 32, Healers, 63 61, 101

116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 176176 110/9/090/9/09 10:4010:40 PMPM 177 Index L Manifesto of Independence, Mouassine neighborhood, Labor Day, 166 166 4, 64, 70–71, 144, 164 La Casa (bar), 125 The Man Who Knew Too Mouhalabieh, 110–111 Ladeuil, Cyril, 154 Much (film), 40, 41 Moulay Bouzerktoun, 151 La Maison Arabe, 16, 38, Marabouts, 69 Moulay Hassan, 101, 168 134 Marathons, 161 Moulay Ismail, 58, 168 La Maison du Kaftan Marché Central, 75 Moulay Yazid, 168 Marocain, 38, 91 Markets, 75. See also Souks Muqarnas, 44, 45 La Mamounia (hotel), 40, Marrakech Musée de Marrakech, 8, 29, 62, 78 culture of, 169–170 32, 45, 68–69 La Mamounia Casino, 133 favorite moments in, Museums, 27, 55. See also La Plage Rouge, 4, 40, 120, 3–4 Art galleries and 128 history of, 168–169 museums La Qoubba Galerie, 69, maps, 2 Music 80, 86 as The Red City, 43 festivals, 152, 160 La Sultana Spa, 3, 33 “Marrakech Express” venues for live, 114, Late Rooms (website), 142 (song), 41 133–134 Laurent, Yves Saint, 4, 15, Marrakech International Musical instruments, 40, 52, 26, 40, 74, 101 Film Festival, 39, 161 80, 94 Lawrence, Kati, 90 Marrakech International Musicians, Gnaoua, 62, 63 Lawrence Bar, 125 Magic Festival, 23, 160 Mustapha Blaoui (store), 71 Lazama Synagogue, 56 Marrakech Marathon, 161 Leather goods, 51, 66 Marrakech Popular Arts N Le Chesterfield (bar), 125 Festival, 160 Narongsak, Khun, 110 Le Comptoir Darna (supper Mashrabiyya, 45 Nectarome, 156 club), 4, 16, 23, 78, 120, Matisse Art Gallery, 76, 86 Neighborhood walks, 48–78 128 Mawlid al-Nabi, 166 central souks, 48–53 Leroy, Christophe, 115 Mechoui, 49, 113 Jemaa el Fna, 60–63 Les Bains de Marrakech, 22 Mechoui Street, 49 Kasbah and Mellah, L’Escale (bar), 125 Medersa, 168 54–59 Le Tanjia (supper club), 120, Medina, at Essaouira, 152 north of souks and 128 Meknès, 168 Mouassine, 64–71 Le Théâtro (club), 78 Méléhi, Youssef, 77 Ville Nouvelle, 72–78 Lippini, Allessandra, 39, 86 Mellah neighborhood, 44, New Feeling (club), 120, Live music venues, 114, 56–57, 59, 168 126 133–134 Menara Airport, 162 New Year’s Day, 166 Lodging. See also Accom- Menara Gardens, 12, 34, Niam, Barakat, 12 modations Index 101, 168 Nigella oil, 88 best bets, 136 Merenids, 168 Nightlife, 120–128 booking, 142 Merlons, 46 bars, cafés, and in Essaouira, 154 Miâara, 33, 56 lounges, 124–125 maps, 137–139 Mihrab, 45 beach parties, 128 L’Orientaliste, 75, 93 Minbar, 74 best bets, 120 Lost property, 166 Ministerio del Gusto, 38, 39 clubs, 125–127 Lounges, 124–125 Mint, 49 maps, 121–123 Low season, 142 Mint tea, 53 supper clubs, 127–128 Mnebhi, Mehdi, 8 Nikki Beach, 4, 34–35, 128 M Mobile phones, 161–162 Nomade Quad, 98 Mogador. See Essaouira Maâlems, 52, 92 Mohammed V, 169 Mafid, Kharbibi Moulay, 29 O Mohammed VI, 59, 169 Magical Marrakech tour, Oasiria water park, 99 Money, 166–167 18–23 Oasis. See Palmeraie oasis Monkeys, 63 Magic festivals, 23, 160 Off-road rallies, 160, 161 Montecristo (club), 120, 126 Magic Fun Afrika, 151 Olives, 49 Montreaux Jazz Festival Mail, 166 Olivier, Pierre, 111, 140 Morocco, 160 Maimoune, Ali, 152 ONMT tourist office, 167 Moroccan cuisine, 113 Maison Rouge, 75, 91, 93 Open-air circus. See Jemaa Morocco (film), 40 Maison Tiskiwin, 27, 55 el Fna Mosques, 57–58, 67, 68, Majorelle, Jacques, 15, 74 Orange oil, 88 71, 170 Malay Abdullah, 168 Oriental Spa, 41 Mouassine Fountain, 53

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Oukaïmeden, 99, 156, 158 Police, 167 Rue de Bab Debbagh, 66 Ourika Valley, 34, 156–158, Port, at Essaouira, 150 Rue de Bab Doukkala, 71 160 Postage, 166 Rue de la Liberté, 15, 75

Index Ourzaz, Said, 152 Poste Maroc, 166 Outdoor activities, 96–102 Poste restante, 166 S Green Marrakech, Priceline (website), 142 Saâdian Tombs, 12, 43–44, 100–102 Prophet’s Birthday, 166 58, 168 and sports, 96–99 Public toilets, 167 Sabra Mode, 50, 93 Puro Desert Lounge, 161 Safety, 167 P Sahara Expedition, 158 Pacha (club), 4, 78, 116, Q Sanchez, Roger, 126 120, 126, 161 Quad biking, 98 Savon noir, 16, 33, 67, 88, Palaces Qu’est-ce que vous 89, 170 Badi Palace, 33, 57, cherchez?, 13 Setti Fatma, 34, 156, 157 160, 168 Shoppers, personal, 90 Bahia Palace, 4, 11–12, R Shopping, 80–94. See also 44, 55, 160, 168 Rabat, 169 Souks Dar el Bacha Palace, Rahba Qedima, 20–21, 50 antiques and art, 80, 70, 112 Raï, 126 86–87 Dar M’Nebhi Palace, 29 Raid Buggy, 98 best bets, 80 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, Ramadan, 166, 170 carpets, 71, 75, 80, 87 32–33, 44, 45, 55, Ramparts crafts. See Crafts 145 at Essaouira, 151–152 in Essaouira, 149, 152 Palais Rhoul, 114 of Marrakech, 43, 62 fashion, 38, 39, 50, 75, Royal Palace, 58, 59 Recontres Musicales de 80, 89–91, 160 Palais des Congrès, 39 Marrakech, 160 at foundouks, 20, 70 Palais Rhoul, 114 Recycled materials, crafts gifts, 28, 71, 80, 91–93, Palmeraie, 4, 22, 23 from, 92 152 Palmeraie Golf Course, 97, The Red City, Marrakech as, in Guéliz, 15 102 43 herbal remedies, Palmeraie Golf Palace, 98 Religious sites 20–21, 50, 57, 80, Palmeraie oasis, 97, 102, Ali Ben Youssef Med- 87–89, 152 140, 144 ersa, 3–4, 8, 46, jewelry, 28, 29, 39, 50, Paradise Club, 126–127 67–68, 145, 168 51, 80, 93, 152 Parks Ali Ben Youssef maps, 81–85 Cyber Park, 16, 26, 77, Mosque, 67, 68 Shopping hours, 165 78, 101, 160, 166 Bab Doukkala Sidi Abdel Aziz el Harar, 69 Toubkal National Park, mosque, 71 Sidi Kaouki, 151 157 Église des Saints- Sidi Mohammed III, 168 Passports, 167 Martyrs, 78 Si Moussa, 11, 55, 168 Pastillas, 4, 29, 110, Kasbah Mosque, Skala de la Ville, 152 112–115, 117 57–58 Skala du Port, 149, 150 Patisseries, 15, 50, 62, 75, Lazama Synagogue, 56 Skiing, 99, 158 155 Zaouia Sidi Abdel Aziz Slipper Souk (Souk des Perez, Lynn, 144 el Harar, 69 Babouches), 20 Performing arts, 130–134 Restaurants. See Restaurant Snake-charmers, 63 Personal shoppers, 90 Index Social graces, 169 Petit taxis, 13, 164 Rhassoul, 16, 20, 38, 67, Souks, 3, 8–9, 12. See also Pharmacies, 167 87–89, 170 specific souks, e.g.: Spice Photography, 170 Riad Enija, 35 Souk Pisé, 101 Riads, 4, 35, 140–146 business hours of, 165 Place de Foucauld, 61 amenities of, 144 central, 48–53 Place des Ferblantiers in Essaouira, 154 at Essaouira, 152 (Tinsmith’s Square), renting, 142, 164–165 haggling at, 28 13, 21–22, 26–27, Riad Zitoun el-Jedid, 11, in Tnine Ourika, 157 56–57 28, 55 Souk Belaarif, 51–52 Place du 16 Novembre, Riad Zitoun el-Kedim, 28, 92 Souk Cherratine, 51 75–76 Royal Palace, 58, 59 Souk des Babouches Place Moulay El Hassan, Royal Tennis Club, 99 (Slipper Souk), 20 150 Rue Dar el-Bacha, 70–71 Souk Haddadine, 28, 52 Place Orson Welles, 150 Rue de Bab Agnaou, 62 Souk Kchacha (Fruit and Nut Souk), 49

116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 178178 110/9/090/9/09 10:4010:40 PMPM 179 Index Souk Kimakhine, 52 Tinsmith’s Square (Place Accommodations Souk Sebbaghine (Dyer’s des Ferblantiers), 13, Index Souk), 7–8, 52–53, 87 21–22, 26–27, 56–57 Caravanserai, 35, 136, 140 Souk Semmarine, 7, 28, Tipping, 9, 167 Casa Lalla, 35, 140 49–50 Tnine Ourika, 157 Dar Charkia, 136, 140 Souk Siyyaghin, 51 Toilets, 167 Dar Donab, 136, 140–141 Souk Smata, 28, 51 Toll-free numbers, 173 Dar Les Cigognes, 136, 141 Spas, 142. See also Toubkal National Park, 157 Dar Liouba, 154 Hammams Tourist information, 160, Dar Ness, 154 in hotels, 141, 142, 144 167 Dar Sholmes, 136, 141 La Sultana Spa, 3, 33 Tours, guided, 156, 157 Es Saadi Gardens & Resort, Les Bains de Mar- Trains, 77, 163 41, 136, 141 rakech, 22 Treks, at Setti Fatma, 157 Grand Hotel Tazi, 124 Oriental Spa, 41 Trouillet, Laetitia, 90 Hotel Les Jardins de la Special events, 160–161 Koutoubia, 134 Special interest tours, U Jnane Mogador, 136, 141 18–46 UNESCO World Heritage Jnane Tamsna, 136, 141, architectural elements, sites 142 42–46 Chouf Fountain, 46, 69 La Maison Arabe, 134, 136, arts and crafts, 24–29 Jemaa el Fna, 9 142 celebrity Marrakech, medina at Essaouira, La Mamounia, 40, 78 36–41 152 La Sultana, 136, 142 magical Marrakech, Urban escape acts tour, Le Caspien, 136, 142 18–23 30–35 L’Heure d’Été, 142 urban escape acts, Madada Mogador, 154 30–35 V Maison des Artistes, 154 Spice Souk, 12, 55–56, 152 VAT taxes, 165 Moroccan House Hotel, 143 Sports, 96–99 Ville Nouvelle neighborhood, Red House, 146 Storks, 3, 117, 141 4, 72–78, 144, 169 Riad 72, 136, 143 Storytellers, 63 VIP (club), 127 Riad Baladin, 154 Street entertainment. See Visas, 167 Riad Dar Attajmil, 143 Jemaa el Fna Riad Davia, 136, 143 Summer of Love, 169 Riad Eden, 143 Supper clubs, 4, 16, 23, 78, W Riad el Mansour, 144 120, 127–128 Walking around, 164. See Riad Enija, 35, 136, 144 Supratours, 153 also Neighborhood walks Riad Farnatchi, 35, 136, 144 Surfing, 99, 151 in Jemaa el Fna, 60–63, 164 Riad Hotel Assia, 144 Riad L’Orangerie, 136, 145 T near Bab Hmar, 97 Water, drinking, 118, 165 Riad Mabrouka, 136, 145 Tadelakt, 28, 89, 91, 113 Waterfalls, at Setti Fatma, Riad Meriem, 145 Tafilalet, 39, 50, 80, 94 34, 157 Riad Miski, 145 Tagine, 113 Water parks, 99 Riad Taghazoute, 146 Tanjia, 23, 112, 113, 115, Weather, 161 Riyad El Cadi, 35, 136, 146 117, 128 Websites, useful, 162, 173 Villa des Orangers, 146 Tanneries, 66 Welles, Orson, 150 Villa Flore, 16, 136, 146 Tap water, 165 White Room (club), 127 Taranne, Florence, 91 Willis, Bill, 113 Restaurant Index Taros Café, 155 Windsurfing, 99, 151 Adamo, 104 Taxes, 165 After Five, 155 Taxis, 13, 162, 164, 167 Al Ahbab, 9 Tayebas, 33, 170 Y Al Fassia, 104, 110 Tea, mint, 53 Yacoub el-Mansour, 7, 43, Amanjena Thai, 110 Telephones, 167 168 Aqua, 110 Temperatures, 161 Youssef ben Tachfine, 168 Beyrouth, 110–111 Tennis, 99 Bougainvillea Café, 39 Terrasse des Épices, 120, Z Café 16, 76 125 Zaouia, 69 Café Arabe, 111 Thami el-Glaoui, 71, 169 Zaouia Sidi Abdel Aziz el Café Argana, 61 Théâtre Royal, 76, 134, 160 Harar, 69 Café des Arts, 28 Théâtro (club), 4, 120, 127 Zellij, 4, 26, 45 Café des Épices, 21, 104 Thuya, 29 Zohra, Fatima, 61 Café du Livre, 74–75, 104 Zouak, 11, 44, 45, 146

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Cantanzaro, 111 Jardins de la Medina, 114 Le Marrakchi, 63, 104, 117 Casa Lalla, 104, 111, 140 Jnane Tamsna, 102 Le Tanjia, 23 Chez Bahia, 111 Katsura, 114 Le Tobsil, 29, 104, 117

Index Chez Chegrouni, 63, 104, Kechmara, 114, 124 Lotus Privilege, 104, 117 112 L’Abyssin, 114 Maison Arabe, 46 Chez Pascal, 104, 112 La Maison Arabe, 71, 104, Musée de Marrakech Chez Sam, 155 115, 142 Café, 69 Crêperie Mogador, 155 La Sultana, 104, 115 Narwama, 104, 117 Dar Belkabir, 112 La Table du Marché, 104, Nid’ Cigogne, 104, 117 Dar Donab, 35, 70, 104, 112 115 Pâtisserie Driss, 155 Dar Es Salam, 41 La Taverne, 115 Raja, 145 Dar Marjana, 112 La Trattoria di Giancarlo, Silvestro, 155 Dar Moha, 112–113 115–116 Taros Café, 155 Dar Yacout, 104, 113 L’Avenue, 115 Tatchibana, 59 Dar Zellij, 113, 114 Le Bis, 104, 116 Terrasse des Épices, 32, 53 Earth Café, 12, 44, 104 Le Blokk, 116 Terrasses de L’Alhambra, Grand Café de la Poste, Le Crystal, 116 63, 117–118 104, 114 Le Foundouk, 67, 104 Villa Flore, 16, 104, 118 Ice Legend, 7, 104 Le Jacaranda, 117

116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 180180 110/9/090/9/09 10:4010:40 PMPM 181 Photo Photo Credits Credits Front Matter Credits: i: © John Warburton Lee Photography / Alamy; © Fiona Quinn; © Andy Christiani.

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