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174 Galerie Noir Sur Blanc, Ben Rahal (store), 75, 80, 87 76, 86 Bergé, Pierre, 26, 40 Index in Guéliz, 76 Bhous, 45, 125 Index See also Accommoda- Islamic Art Museum, Biking, quad, 98 tions and Restaurant 15, 26, 74 Birkemeyer, Frédérique, 91 Khalid Art Gallery, Bob Music, 40, 80, 94 indexes, below. 38, 70, 80, 86 Boccara, Charles, 76, 140, La Qoubba Galerie, 141 A 69, 80, 86 Borj el-Berod, 153 Access-Able Travel Source, Matisse Art Gallery, Botanical gardens 167 76, 86 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, Acrobats, 63 Ministerio del Gusto, 26, 40, 74, 101, 102 Actor’s (club), 125–126 38, 39 Nectarome, 156 Adhan, 3, 21, 61 Musée de Marrakech, Bou Ahmed, 11, 168 African Chic (bar), 114, 133 8, 29, 32, 45, Bô-Zin (supper club), 120, Agafay Desert, 98 68–69 127 Agdal Gardens, 59, 101, Arts and crafts tour, 24–29 Brahim, Ahamed, 87 168 Assalam aleikum, 49 Briouatte, 113 Ahmed el-Mansour, 12, 33, Assouss Argane, 80, 87–88, Brisara, 113 43, 57, 58, 69, 168 149 Bristow, Joanna, 90 Aïcha des Gazelles (festival), Atika (store), 75, 89 Buggy raiding, 98 160 Atlas Karting, 98 Buses, 153, 163 Air travel, 162 Atlas Mountains, 99, 101, Business hours, 165 Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, 157, 163 3–4, 8, 46, 67–68, ATMs, 165 C 145, 168 Au Fil D’Or, 39, 50, 80, 90 Café Arabe, 111, 124 Ali Ben Youssef Mosque, Authentic Morocco, Café des Épices, 166 67, 68 153, 158 Café des Négociants, 124 Allegiance Day, 166 Avenue Mohammed V, 77 Café du Livre, 166 Almohads, 168 Aya’s (store), 27, 90 Café Extrablatt, 16, 120, Almoravid monument, 8 124 Alouites, 168 B Cafés, 124, 125 Amentis (supper club), Bab Agnaou, 13, 43, 57, Caftan (festival), 160 120, 127 168 Caidals, 127 Amir, Noureddine, 91 Bab Debbagh, 66 Calèches, 7, 12, 61, Amlou, 149 Bab Doukkala mosque, 71 163–164 Andalusian gardens, 11 Bab Hmar, 97 Calligraphy, 45 Antiques, 80, 86–87 Bab Jdid, 101 Calling codes, 167 Apartment rentals, 164–165 Babouches, 7, 26, 28, 51, Camel rides, 4, 22, 23, 97, Architecture 80, 90, 91, 144, 152 153 Ali Ben Youssef Badi Palace, 33, 57, 160, Caravan routes, 168 Mosque, 68 168 Carpets, 71, 75, 80, 87 Gare de Marrakech, Bahia Palace, 4, 11–12, 44, Carpet Souk (Criée Berbere), 77, 163 55, 160, 168 7, 20, 28, 50 Koubba Ba’adyin, Balloon flights, 98 Car rentals, 162 8, 45, 46, 68 Banks, 165 Carriages, horse-drawn, Koubba Fatima Bars, 124, 125 102, 163–164 Zohra, 61 Bartering, 51 Casino de Marrakech, 78, Koutoubia, 3, 7, 21, Bathhouses, 22. See also 133 43, 61, 77, 168 Hammams Casinos, 78, 133 Théâtre Royal, 76, Bazar Ben Allal, 87 Celebrity Marrakech tour, 134, 160 Beaches 36–41 COPYRIGHTEDtour of, 42–46 at Essaouira, 151, 153MATERIALCell phones, 161–162 Argan oil, 80, 87, 88, La Plage Rouge, 4, 40, Ceramics, 28, 55 89, 149 120, 128 Chamber of the Twelve Art galleries and museums Nikki Beach, 4, 34–35, Pillars, 43, 58 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, 128 Chater, Nourredine, 76 32–33, 44, 45, Beach parties, 128 Cheno, Bruno, 128 55, 145 Beghrir, 113 Cherakaoui, Larbi, 76 in Essaouira, 152 Benacher, Mustapha, 16 Chez Ali (supper club), Galerie 127, 76, 86 127–128 116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 174174 110/9/090/9/09 110:400:40 PPMM 175 Index Children Cyber cafés, 101, 166 E camel rides for, 22, 23 Cyber Park, 16, 26, 77, 78, Ebookers (website), 142 gardens for, 7, 32, 34, 101, 160, 166 Église des Saints-Martyrs, 78 76, 78 Eid al-Adha, 166 in Green Marrakech, D Eid al-Fitr, 166 101 Damgaard, Frederic, 152 Electricity, 165 hotels catering to, Dancers, High Atlas, 160 Electronics, 51–52 141–143, 145 Dar al Baida pavilion, 101 El Hiba, 169 at Koutoubia, 21, 61 Dar Charkia, 90 Embassies, 165 restaurants for, 110, Dar Chérifa, 32 Emergencies, 165 111, 117 Dar el Bacha Palace, 70, Ensemble Artisanal, 15–16, shopping with, 20, 80, 112 26, 77, 80, 91 89, 91, 93 Darj w ktarf motifs, 7, 43, Entertainment. See Jemaa water parks for, 99 58, 61 el Fna Chouf, 69 Dar M’Nebhi Palace, 29 Es Saadi Gardens and Chouf Fountain, 46, 69 Dars, 27 Resort, 41, 127 Churchill, Winston, 169 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, Essaouira, 4, 29, 99, Ciel d’Afrique, 98 32–33, 44, 45, 55, 145 148–155, 160 Cigognes, 141 Day trips and excursions, Essaouira Bay, 153 Cinema, 39, 133, 161 148–158 Eurolines, 163 Cinéma Eden, 133 Essaouira, 148–155 Exchange rate, 166–167 Cinéma Le Colisée, 39, 133 Oukaïmeden, Cinema Mabrouka, 133 156, 158 F Circuit de la Palmeraie, 102 Ourika Valley, Faith, 169, 170 Circus, open-air. See Jemaa 156–158 Fashion, 38, 39, 50, 75, 80, el Fna Dentists, 63, 165 89–91, 160 City Hall (Hôtel de Ville), 77 Derbs, 13, 144, 164 Fatima hand, 46 Climate, 160, 161 Derb Zaouiat Lakhdar, 67 Feast of the King and the Clubs, 125–127 Diamant Noir (club), 114, People’s Revolution, 166 Consulates, 165 120, 126, 165 Feast of the Throne, 166 Coopérative Artisanal des Diffa, 29, 97 Festivals, 152, 160–161 Marqueteurs, 152 Dining. See also Restaurant Fez, 168 Cornes de gazelle, 62, 75, Index Film, 39, 133, 161 94, 113, 155 best bets, 104 Fish auction, 150 Cornut, Théodore, 151 in Essaouira, 150, 155 Flint, Bert, 27, 55 Cosmetics, 87–89 in Jemaa el Fna, 4, 63, Foundouk al Mizane, 29, 53, Côté Sud, 75, 91 118 80, 92 Coustal, Philippe, 117 maps, 105–109 Foundouks, 20, 70 Crafts, 92–93, 152 in Setti Fatma, Foundouk Sarsar, 38, 53 arts and crafts tour, 157–158 Foundouk Tiwtiw, 29 24–29 at supper clubs, Fountains, 46, 53, 69 best bets, 28, 80 127–128 4L Trophy rally, 161 at Ensemble Artisanal, Dirham, 166–167 Fragrances, 89 15–16, 26, 77, 80, 91 Disabilities, travelers with, French language, 170–173 at foundouks, 20, 29, 167 French occupation, 169 38, 53, 70, 80, 92 Djinn, 152 Friendship Festival, 160 in foundouks, 20, 29, Dobry, Yann, 89 Fruit and Nut Souk (Souk 53, 70 Doctors, 165 Kchacha), 49 at Place des Ferblan- Doors, decorative, 44 Full-day tours tiers (Tinsmith’s Dress, appropriate, 169 one day, 6–9 Square), 13, 21–22, Dried-fruit carts, in Jemaa el two day, 10–13 26–27, 56–57 Fna, 63 three day, 14–16 in Ville Nouvelle neigh- Drinking water, 118, 165 Furans, 4, 56, 67 borhood, 75 Driving, 153, 158, 162–164 Credit cards, 165 Dromedary rides, 4, 22, 23, G Criée Berbère (Carpet 97, 153 Galerie 127, 76, 86 Souk), 7, 20, 28, 50 Dune buggies, 98 Galerie d’Art Damgaard, Crosby, Stills, and Nash, Dyer’s Souk (Souk Seb- 152 169 baghine), 7–8, 52–53, 87 Currency, 162, 166–167 Galerie Noir Sur Blanc, Customs, 165 76, 86 116_717110-bindex.indd6_717110-bindex.indd 175175 110/9/090/9/09 110:400:40 PPMM 176 Garden of Paradise, 102 Health, 165 J Gardens Herbal remedies, 20–21, Jad Mahal (supper club), Agdal Gardens, 59, 50, 57, 80, 87–89, 152 128 Index 101, 168 Herboristerie Palais El Jamade (store), 28, 55, 93 Andalusian gardens, 11 Badia, 57, 80, 88 Jardin’Art (festival), 160 at Bahia Palace, 55 Hideous Kinky (film), 38, 53 Jardin el Harti, 76 Cyber Park, 16, 26, 77, High Atlas, 34, 161 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, 26, 78, 101, 160, 166 High Atlas dancers, 160 40, 74, 101, 102 Dar Si Said, 11, 27–28, Hiking, 157 Jbel Attar, 158 32–33, 44, 45, 55, Historical sites Jbel Toukal, 157 145 Ali Ben Youssef Med- Jellabahs, 7, 28, 89, 90, 91, Es Saadi Gardens and ersa, 3–4, 8, 46, 144 Resort, 41, 127 67–68, 145, 168 Jemaa el Fna, 3, 8–9 Jardin el Harti, 76 Bab Agnaou, 13, 43, dining in, 4, 63, 118 Jardin Majorelle, 4, 15, 57, 168 entertainment in, 26, 40, 74, 101, 102 Bab Doukkala 21, 134 Koutoubia Gardens, mosque, 71 festivals in, 160, 161 7, 32, 61, 101 Borj el-Berod, 153 lodging in, 144, 146 Menara Gardens, 12, Chouf Fountain, 46, 69 map, 63 34, 101, 168 Dar Chérifa, 32 walking around in, Nectarome, 156 Dar Si Said, 55 60–63, 164 at riads, 4, 35 Koubba Ba’adyin, 8, 45, Jewelry, 28, 29, 39, 50, 51, Gare de Marrakech, 77, 163 46, 68 80, 93, 152 Gay and lesbian travelers, Koubba Fatima Jewelry Souk, at Essaouira, 165 Zohra, 61 152 Gifts, 28, 71, 80, 91–93, 152 ramparts, 43, 62, Jewish quarter (Mellah Gili, Xavier Arnaud, 110 151–152 neighborhood), 54, Ginseng, 88 ramparts at Essaouira, 56–57, 59, 168 Glaoui, Hassan El, 76 151–152 Jnane Tamsna, 102 Gnaoua and World Music Saâdian Tombs, 12, Jones, Robert Trent, 97 Festival, 152, 160 43–44, 58, 168 Juice carts, in Jemaa Gnaoua musicians, 62, 63 Hivernage neighborhood, el Fna, 63 Golf, 97 4, 16, 78, 101 Gommage, 170 Holidays, 165–166 K Grand Balcon du Café Homosexuality, 165 Kasbah Mosque, 57–58 Glacier, 63, 120, 124 Horse-drawn carriages, Kasbah neighborhood, 54, Grand Hotel Tazi (bar), 62, 102, 163–164 57–59, 144, 164, 168 120, 124 Horse riding, 98 Kechmara (lounge), 114, Grand taxis, 158, 164 Hot-air balloon flights, 98 120, 124 Green March, 169 Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), 77 Kefta, 113 Green Marrakech, 100–102 Hotel Les Jardins de la Kessa, 170 Guéliz, 4, 15, 71, 75, 76, Koutoubia, 134 Khalid Art Gallery, 38, 70, 165 Hotels.
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  • MOROCCO but Sometimes Creative Presence Onmoroccanshores

    MOROCCO but Sometimes Creative Presence Onmoroccanshores

    © Lonely Planet Publications 784 www.lonelyplanet.com MOROCCO •• History 785 Coast and you’ll be accompanied by a sea breeze that massages the ramparts of wonderful cities whose names – Essaouira, Casablanca, Asilah, Rabat – and atmosphere carry a strong whiff of African magic. Should you instead travel east along Morocco’s Mediterranean Coast, Morocco you’ll be tempted into enchanted towns such as Tetouan and Chefchaouen and the mountains of the Rif. If it’s mountains you love, Morocco has them in abundance, rising from the Rif into the HIGHLIGHTS Middle Atlas and on into the extraordinary contours of the 1000km-long and over 4000m-tall Marrakesh Dive into the clamour and spectacle of Morocco’s most dynamic city ( p800 ) High Atlas. And then, suddenly, everything changes. The mountains fissure into precipitous Fès Lose yourself in the exotic charms of this medieval treasure-trove of sights, sounds earth-coloured gorges, mud-brick kasbahs turn blood-red with the setting sun and the sense and smells ( p805 ) that one has stumbled into a fairy tale takes hold. Essaouira Laze by the sea in Morocco’s coolest resort ( p799 ) Morocco’s secret is simple: there is no place on earth quite like it. Chefchaouen Catch a mountain breeze in this stunning Rif town ( p792 ) Best journey Row across the river (and back a few centuries) from contemporary Rabat HISTORY Hassan II retained all effective power until ( p796 ) to old-fashioned Salé ( p798 ) Most present-day Moroccans are descendents his death in 1999. of indigenous tribes that have inhabited the The new king, Mohammed VI, has adopted Maghreb hills for thousands of years.