EASTERN CAMBODIA 275 Lom Boeng Yeak © Lonely Planet Publications Province Mondulkiri Sen Monorom
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© Lonely Planet Publications 275 Eastern Cambodia Eastern Cambodia is home to a diversity of landscapes and peoples, shattering the illusion that the country is all paddy fields and sugar palms. There are plenty of those in the lowland prov- inces, but in the northeast they yield to the forested mountains of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri, both up-and-coming ecotourism areas. This is a vast region, stretching from the dragon’s tail where the borders of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam meet, to near enough the dragon’s mouth where the mighty Mekong continues its journey into the delta and on to the South China Sea. The river and its tributaries snake through the land, breathing life into the fields, blanketing the landscape in dazzling greens and providing a livelihood for millions of people. If it is a walk on the wild side that fires your imagination, then the northeast is calling. The rolling hills and lush forests provide a home to many ethnic minority groups known as Khmer Leu (Upper Khmer) or chunchiet (ethnic minorities). With different dialects, lifestyles and looks, these people are a world away from their lowland Khmer neighbours. Pepper- ing the area are thundering waterfalls, crater lakes and meandering rivers. Trekking, biking, kayaking and elephant rides are all activities beginning to take off in this remote corner of Cambodia, making it a must for adrenaline seekers. The ‘Wild East’ atmosphere doesn’t stop there. This is also home to rare wildlife such as tigers, leopards and elephants, although the chances of seeing some of these are about as likely as the kouprey – a wild ox and the country’s national symbol – still living in the forests. The Mekong is home to dwindling numbers of the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin, which can be viewed year-round near Kratie. Do the maths: it all adds up to an amazing experience. HIGHLIGHTS Catch a glimpse of the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin in the Mekong River near Kratie ( p288 ) Experience a different Cambodia with a homestay Boeng Yeak Lom in Mondulkiri ( p298 ) and learn about the life of River the hardy Pnong people Mondulkiri Province Dive into the crystal-clear waters of the crater lake Kratie of Boeng Yeak Lom ( p296 ) in Ratanakiri, the best Mekong natural swimming pool in the country, surrounded Sen Monorom by lush forest EASTERN CAMBODIA Kompong Cham Learn how to be a mahout for the day at the Elephant Valley Project in Mondulkiri ( p302 ) Soak up the charms of Kompong Cham ( p280 ), a bustling town on the Mekong and gateway to his- toric temples, lush countryside and friendly locals ELEVATION: 5-1500M POPULATION: 6 MILLION AREA : 68,472 SQ KM 276 EASTERN CAMBODIA lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SVAY RIENG PROVINCE 277 0 50 km History For those already in Cambodia, Phnom EASTERN CAMBODIA 0 30 miles In the 1960s Vietnamese communist forces Penh is the usual gateway to the region, sought sanctuary in eastern Cambodia to escape with a host of reliable roads fanning out to the fire power and might of the US army, and the major cities, plus irregular flights be- much of the area was heavily under the influence tween the capital and the popular province of the Vietnamese. Prince Sihanouk became in- of Ratanakiri. creasingly anti-American as the ’60s progressed, As overland travel takes off in Cambodia, THAILAND LAOS River ὈὈὈ it is possible to reach almost any destination and cut a deal to tacitly supply the Vietnamese communists with weapons from the Chinese, in the region in one day, unthinkable just Mekong via the port of Sihanoukville. By the end of the a few years ago. A round trip from Phnom decade, as the USA began its bombing raids Penh to Ratanakiri by land can take just six Virachay National Park days (if you set a fast pace). Mondulkiri is Preah Vihear and incursions, the Vietnamese communists Temple more straightforward and, with good con- Choam had moved deep into the country. Following Muang Khong Hat Xai Siem Pang ὈὈ Ksant KhunὈὈὈ the overthrow of Sihanouk, Lon Nol demanded nections, a round trip can be done in four Nakasong Voen Kulen Prum Tep Voen Kham Sai that all Vietnamese communist forces withdraw days. But be aware that you still sometimes Wildlife Sanctuary PREAH Ta Veng Kachon VIHEAR Kong from Cambodia within one week, an ultimatum end up stranded in the wet season. Ko Chheuteal Dom Kralor RATANAKIRI Kulen Thom O Svay NH78A Andong STUNG Meas they could not possibly meet, and open war Tbeng Meanchey Chaeb Tonlé TRENG Getting Around San Ban Lung O Yadaw Le Tanh erupted. In just a few months, much of eastern Tonlé Boeng Yeak Eastern Cambodia is one of the more remote Lom Bokheo Cambodia fell to the Vietnamese communists Stung Thala Boravit parts of the country and conditions vary NH19 and their Khmer Rouge allies. ὈὈ ὈὈὈLumphat Stung Treng Sen widely between wet and dry seasons. Getting O Pong Moan During much of the rule of the Khmer Tonlé around the lowlands is easy enough, as Rovieng Rouge, the eastern zones were known to be Lumphat Srepok many of the roads have been upgraded and Phnom Wildlife more moderate than other parts of the coun- Sanctuary Dek NH7 try and it wasn’t until 1977 that Pol Pot and buses, minibuses and taxis ply the routes. the central government tried to impose their National Highway 1 (NH1) to Vietnam is NH64 River Koh Nhek Mondulkiri in fine shape all the way to the border. NH7 MONDULKIRI National will on the east. Militarily, eastern Cambodia ὈὈὈὈὈForest has been rebuilt all the way to Stung Treng To Siem Reap was independent and strong, and the crack- KRATIE and the Lao border. KOMPONG Mekong Srepok down provoked what amounted to a civil THOM Sambor Wilderness The northeast is a different matter, as Area Kompong Thom Phnom Prech war between Khmer Rouge factions. This Sandan Wildlife Sanctuary Phnom Namlier tussle lingered until December 1978, when the punishing rains of the wet season leave Kampi Wildlife Phnom Sombok Sanctuary many of the roads in a sorry state. A good NH6 Bou Sraa the Vietnamese invasion forced the Khmer Phulung road can turn bad in a matter of months Tonlé Sap Kratie Waterfall Sen Monorom Rouge leadership to flee to the Thai border. River Baray Putang Dak Dam and journey times become hit and miss. ὄὄ ὈὈMimong Ὀ The east became one of the safest areas of Waterfall Spoe Tbong Mekong River Romanear the country during much of the 1980s, as Kompong NH71 Stung Snuol NH76 Waterfall Chhnang Phnom Pros & Trang Chhlong Wildlife Phnom Srei Sanctuary Khao Si Ma the Khmer Rouge kept well away from areas Wat NH73 NH5 Prasat Kuk SVAY RIENG PROVINCE Hanchey KOMPONG that were close to the Vietnamese border. Yeay Hom Snuol CHAM Trapaeng Skuon Prey NH7 Kompong Cham Sre These days the region is experiencing Chor Bridge Suong Loc Ninh an economic renaissance as the rubber in- Chub ext‘sÃayerog ὄὄUdong NH6 Krau ὈὈNH7 Ὀ dustry bounces back and staple commodity This small province occupies a jut of land Memot Trapeang Thlong prices soar. sticking into Vietnam, an area known as PHNOM NH11 Xa Mat the parrot’s beak. During the Vietnam War, PENH Getting There & Away American forces were convinced that this NH4 NH1 Prey Veng Takhmau PREY Eastern Cambodia is home to several im- was where the Vietnamese communists’ KANDAL VENG portant international border crossings be- version of the Pentagon was situated. While Neak Luong SVAY Tay Ninh NH21 Neak Ba Phnom VIETNAM Tonlé RIENG tween Cambodia and its neighbours. The there were undoubtedly a lot of Vietnamese NH3 Luong Ferry NH2 NH1 Mekong River border at Dom Kralor–Voen communists hiding in Cambodia during Bassac Kompong Svay Rieng Moc Bai EASTERN CAMBODIA Suong Kham shared with Laos to the north is an much of the war, there was no such thing Banteay Bavet Takeo Kaam Chakrey Chiphu ever-more popular route for adventurous as a Pentagon. In 1969 the Americans Samnor Khanh travellers. East of Phnom Penh are plenty began unauthorised bombing in this area Binh TAKEO Vinh Xuong Tani Mekong of border crossings with Vietnam, includ- and in 1970 joined forces with the South Chau Doc HO CHI MINH CITY ing the old favourite Bavet–Moc Bai crossing Vietnamese for a ground assault. (SAIGON) Phnom River on the road to Ho Chi Minh City, and the Svay Rieng is considered one of Cambodia’s Den Tinh Bien evocative Mekong River crossing at Kaam poorest provinces because of the poor quality Gulf of Samnor–Vinh Xuong. See p328 for more on of its land. Most of the population eke out Thailand EASTERN CAMBODIA border crossings in this region. a subsistence living based on farming and 278 PREY VENG PROVINCE •• Prey Veng Book your stay online at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com PREY VENG PROVINCE •• Neak Luong 279 fishing. There is really nothing to attract visi- difficult because taxi drivers prefer the more Mittapheap Hotel (012 997757; r US$3-10; a) the ferry. From Neak Luong, it is possible to tors here, which is why 99.99% zoom through lucrative option of taking foreigners all the Occupying a prime position on the central continue east to Svay Rieng (64km), north to it on their way to Vietnam. way to Phnom Penh. Stuff yourself into a taxi crossroads in town, this is the elder states- Prey Veng (30km) or south to Kaam Samnor with other travellers and ask to be dropped men among Prey Veng’s hotels. The friendly (45km), gateway to Vietnam and the Mekong SVAY RIENG off at Svay Rieng (US$2).