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Testing Method for Specific Ingredients in Antiperspirant and Humectant Cosmetic Compositions

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Testing Method for Specific Ingredients in Antiperspirant and Humectant Cosmetic Compositions (19) TZZ¥_¥_T (11) EP 3 156 793 A1 (12) EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION (43) Date of publication: (51) Int Cl.: 19.04.2017 Bulletin 2017/16 G01N 31/22 (2006.01) (21) Application number: 15190253.3 (22) Date of filing: 16.10.2015 (84) Designated Contracting States: (72) Inventors: AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB • TOMCZAK, Douglas Charles GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO Trumbull, Connecticut, 06611 (US) PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR • AGRAWAL, Nikhil Designated Extension States: Trumbull, Connecticut, 06477 (US) BA ME • MARRIOTT, Robert Edward Designated Validation States: Bebington, Wirral, Merseyside, MA CH63 3JW (GB) • GIBSON, Oliver Lawrence (71) Applicants: Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS14 2AR (GB) • Unilever PLC London, Greater London EC4Y 0DY (GB) (74) Representative: McHugh, Paul Edward Designated Contracting States: Unilever PLC CY GB IE MT Unilever Patent Group • Unilever N.V. Colworth House 3013 AL Rotterdam (NL) Sharnbrook Designated Contracting States: Bedford AL AT BE BG CH CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GR HR Bedfordshire MK44 1LQ (GB) HU IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR (54) TESTING METHOD FOR SPECIFIC INGREDIENTS IN ANTIPERSPIRANT AND HUMECTANT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS (57) A method of demonstrating the potential for a um-containingantiperspirant salt and/or moisturiser, said moisturisation and/or antiperspirancy effect from a cos- detector substance generating a visible colour change metic composition, said method comprising contacting to indicate the presence of aluminium-containing antiper- the composition with a detector substance for alumini- spirant salt and/or moisturiser. EP 3 156 793 A1 Printed by Jouve, 75001 PARIS (FR) 1 EP 3 156 793 A1 2 Description example, with reference to the following figures in which: [0001] The invention concerns a method for demon- FIGURE 1 is a photograph of three cosmetic com- strating the potential for a moisturisation and/or antiper- positions and a substrate prior to application, spirancy effect from a cosmetic composition. 5 [0002] Cosmetic compositions contain a number of dif- FIGURE 2 is a photograph of the three cosmetic ferent ingredients to perform various functions. Some compositions immediately after application to the cosmetic compositions are intended to provide a mois- substrate, turisation and/or antiperspirancy effect to the user. It is beneficial to be able to demonstrate the potential for a 10 FIGURE 3 is a photograph three minutes after ap- moisturisation and/or antiperspirancy effect from a cos- plication of the three cosmetic compositions to the metic composition. The present invention addresses that substrate, goal. [0003] According to the present invention, there is pro- FIGURE 4 is a photograph showing a positive result vided a method of demonstrating the potential for a mois- 15 from the application of a cosmetic composition to a turisation and/or antiperspirancy effect from a cosmetic test substrate, composition, said method comprising contacting the composition with a detector substance for aluminium- FIGURE 5 is a photograph of a negative result of the containing antiperspirant salt and/or moisturiser, said de- application of a comparative cosmetic product to a tector substance generating a visible colour change to 20 test substrate, indicate the presence of aluminium-containing antiper- spirant salt and/or moisturiser. FIGURE 6 is a photograph of PEG-8 applied to a [0004] Preferably, the moisturiser is a humectant. test substrate under ambient conditions, [0005] Conveniently, the step of contacting the com- position with the detector substance comprises the ap- 25 FIGURE 7 is a photograph of PEG-8 applied to a plication of the composition to a fibrous substrate com- test substrate within a desiccator, prising the detector substance. [0006] Advantageously, the fibrous substrate is paper. FIGURE 8 is a photograph showing the results of [0007] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is an an- the application of the surfactant Tween-20 and PEG- tiperspirant composition. 30 8, [0008] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a stick, aerosol, roll-on or cream. FIGURE 9 is a photograph showing the results of [0009] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is in the the application of two cosmetic compositions to a form of a stick test substrate with two different dilutions of a test [0010] Conveniently, the detector substance is for an 35 substance, and aluminium-containing antiperspirant salt. [0011] Advantageously, the detector substance com- FIGURE 10 is a photograph showing the results of prises Chromeazurol S or xylenol orange. the application of four cosmetic compositions to test [0012] Preferably, the detector substance is for a hu- substrates for the detection of glycerol and alumini- mectant. 40 um. [0013] Conveniently, the detector substance is for glycerol. [0019] Aluminium compounds are used in many cos- [0014] Advantageously, the detector substance com- metic compositions to provide antiperspirancy effects. It prises enzymes. would be beneficial to be able to demonstrate such an- [0015] Preferably, the detector substance is for poly- 45 tiperspirancy effects in a simple and quick way. In one propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. aspect, the present invention relates to a method for dem- [0016] Conveniently, the detector substance compris- onstrating the potential for an antiperspirancy effect from es an inorganic salt and a pH indicator dye. a cosmetic composition comprising contacting the com- [0017] According to the invention, there is provided a position with a detector substance for aluminium contain- method of distinguishing a cosmetic composition having 50 ing antiperspirant salt, said detector substance generat- a moisturisation and/or antiperspirancy effect from an- ing a visible colour change to indicate the presence of other cosmetic composition, said method comprising an aluminium-containing antiperspirant salt. contacting the composition with a detector substance for [0020] To perform the method, the cosmetic composi- aluminium-containing antiperspirant salt and/or moistur- tion, which may for example be in the form of a stick, is iser, said detector substance generating a visible colour 55 contacted with the detector substance. This may be per- change to indicate the presence of aluminium-containing formed, for example, by mixing the composition with the antiperspirant salt and/or moisturiser. detector substance on a substrate surface, such as in a [0018] The invention will now be described, by way of container or vessel. Alternatively, the detector substance 2 3 EP 3 156 793 A1 4 may be present in or on a fibrous substrate, and the com- able from the Sigma Aldrich company. This particular re- position may be applied to the fibrous substrate. So, for agent contains a number of enzymes and other compo- example, the composition can be applied to the fibrous nents which can provide a visible colour change as an material, for example by applying a smear, and then the indication for the presence of glycerol in a test composi- substrate can be monitored to see whether there is a 5 tion. For this particular reagent, a colour change to purple colour change. indicates a positive result. [0021] Advantageously the method may, at least with [0027] In one aspect, a fibrous substrate can be used respect to the detection of moisturiser, be carried out in the test which may be, for example, paper or card. The ambient humidity conditions: in particular at relative hu- method can be used for compositions in the form of a midity of less than 80%, more particularly less than 70%. 10 stick and for compositions in non-stick forms, such as In one or more embodiments of particular interest the roll-on, aerosol or cream compositions. This is especially method is carried out at relative humidity of from 20 to the case for methods relating to humectants and antiper- 60%. spirant effects, particularly for glycerol and aluminium [0022] A test for the presence of aluminium can provide salts. a visible colour change to indicate the antiperspirancy 15 [0028] Other preferred moisturisers are triglycerides, potential of a product. A suitable test is the reagent such as those in sunflower seed oil. The present method Chromeazurol S obtainable from the Sigma Aldrich com- also relates to demonstrating the potential for moisturi- pany. For this particular reagent, a colour change from sation from cosmetic compositions containing such mois- orange to purple indicates a positive result. Another suit- turisers. A suitable detector substance is a reagent for able reagent is xylenol orange. 20 the presence of triglycerides. One such reagent is the [0023] Compounds such as some polypropylene gly- Serum Triglyceride Determination Kit available from the cols and polyethylene glycols are used in cosmetic com- Sigma Aldrich company. The kit contains enzymes and positions to provide moisturising properties. These par- other compounds. ticular materials are humectants. In other words, such [0029] The procedure involves enzymatic hydrolysis compounds help to retain moisture when applied to the 25 by lipase of the triglycerides to glycerol and free fatty skin of a user. The method relates to the demonstration acids. The glycerol produced is then measured by cou- of the presence of a range of moisturisers, inlcuding hu- pled enzyme reactions. mectants, such as polyethylene glycols, polypropylene [0030] Triglycerides are first hydrolyzed by lipoprotein glycols, butylene glycols, pentylene glycols, hexylene lipase to glycerol and free fatty acids. Glycerol is then glycols, isomers, dimers and trimers thereof, and other 30 phosphorylated by adenosine-5’-triphosphate (ATP) liquid "hydroxyl" humectants such as diglycerol and pol- forming glycerol-1-phosphate (G-1-P) and adenosine-5’- yglycerol. Preferably, the method involves the detection diphosphate (ADP) in the reaction catalyzed by glycerol of a polyethylene glycol, such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG- kinase (GK). G-1-P is then oxidized by glycerol phos- 8 and PEG-10.
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