Swimwear fabrics for 2005/06

Too Hot Brazil stripes and flowers from Apparel Ventures Fashion and Fit in swimwear

Both circular knits and warp knits have a lot to offer in the highly competitive US swimwear market.

ith the constant demand for fabric. If the fabric is inconsistent, the swimwear manufacturers to finished product is not going to fit right. be on the leading edge of Tricot is far more consistent, when Wfinding something new and compared to other knit constructions, and different in the fabrics they use, there will tricot maintains consistency. It’s a more always be a debate, depending on who you viable product. And, that’s why, for the talk to, as to which knitting process offers most part, the industry has always gone to the most advantages, or the most creativity tricots.” — circular knits or warp knits. Since the yarns used in the manufacture “Circular Knits have become more of swimwear doesn’t tend to change much important in swimwear over the last three beyond the typical nylon/ or to four years. And, we’re finally beginning polyester/spandex blends, the market is to see it happen on a more global level. dependent on other ways of diversifying You never used to see circular knits used in the product in order to make it appeal to Europe. But, when you see better lines like the consumer. La Perla, for instance, which makes a In this feature, KnitAmericas takes a look beautiful, young contemporary swimwear at the American swimwear industry — this line, using all these matte circular knits in season’s fashion trends, the fabric trends, microfibers, it’s becoming more evident the attention to fit, and what both circular that this is an important trend,” knits and warp knits have to offer in this commented Lynne Koplin, president of highly competitive market. Apparel Ventures, Inc., a Los Angeles- based swimwear manufacturer, who Changing landscape sees circular knits as a growing trend for US swimwear in today’s swimwear market. Over the last five years, a large segment of On the other hand, Al Swider, vice the swimwear business has moved towards president of sales for Hafner USA lower-price points. It’s acknowledged by Inc., a 50 year old Canadian based some in the industry that this trend began warp knitter, believes that warp when Warnaco licensed its ‘Catalina’ label to knits provide a better fit. He WalMart. explained, “In the swimwear and Koplin noted, “The move into lower price intimate apparel industries, the points really put WalMart in the swimwear most critical factor in a garment is business in a major way. And, over the past fit. The loyalty to a brand is based several years, this was followed by the entry on the fit of the garment. And, of Target, Sears, etc. As a result, the chains fit is certainly a function of the have established a well developed

Summer 2005 29 Swimwear fabrics for 2005/06

swimwear business, which has really the amount of traveling done by buying separate tops and bottoms. changed the swimwear landscape quite consumers also makes an impact. Koplin Choosing a unique top and bottom, allows considerably. Essentially, a large portion of explained, “I just don’t see people traveling a consumer to customize her suit both in a the junior business has moved into the as much on vacation this year, as they have fashion sense, and to her own size and chain store distribution.” in the past. It’s become very expensive to body type. Koplin said this continues to be As this was happening, Apparel Ventures take vacations.” the biggest growth area of the business. also experienced a transition of its own, in There are also changes in consumer She added, “I think, now more than ever terms of the brands it represented. Today, buying habits which impact business. before, a woman can put two coordinated the company, which licenses Ralph Lauren, Koplin noted, “The junior customer is not prints together — stripes, florals, Anne Klein, Rampage, and Tommy Bahama buying as much as she did a year or two geometrics. A consumer can inter-mix all swimwear labels, also produces its own ago. This could be because there’s just not of them. She can buy four pieces, and swimwear brands under the names of enough new out there in the marketplace make six or more suits out of them. This is LaBlanca and Sessa labels, which have a bit to make her want to buy. And, outside of a real advantage, particularly for the more missy look for the more mature the teenage customer, who buys a new suit younger customer, who wants to have a customer. In addition, the company also every year? I believe that the average suit that is different from her friends.” produces private label swimwear for woman maybe buys a new suit every three According to Koplin, Apparel Ventures is WalMart, J.C. Penney, and Victoria Secret. years.” selling more matte look fabrics than shiny Apparel Ventures now sells to a broad As far as the missy customer is fabrics. She stated, “Today, shine range of stores from WalMart to Bergdorf . concerned, Koplin said, “The forty-five is really coming in the form of The shift of swimwear into the mass year old woman is probably coming embellishments, and market, and the resulting price-pressures back to wanting something that putting a lot of real trendy have had a large impact on swimwear makes her look younger. But, at details on the suits — specialty stores, which were previously a the same time it’s expensive. And, rhinestones, nailheads, major avenue of distribution for swimwear. when you pay $100 on a , beading, sequins, etc. However, the specialty store retailer, which there just isn’t the frequency in All of that ‘bling’ that’s includes Nordstrom, along with the small buying. Overall, swimwear has happening in warm weather resort -based retailers become an item that the customer accessories and located in Florida, Hawaii, and southern buys only when she needs it!” ready-to-wear is California, have still been able to maintain definitely an important place in the swimwear retail Fashion trends moving into business. Because of their service-oriented The swimwear business has seen the swimwear!” philosophy, their educated sales people, same fashion trend for about the In solid and their knowledge of their customer last three years, with the key swimwear base, these specialty stores, although small, silhouettes being the bikini, the fabrics, Ruth continue to be important. halter top, and the hipster pant — Gordon, All of these market segments are now and consumers at every director of vying for a share in a swimwear business, level are merchandising which hasn’t grown much over the past few years. The result is that the U.S. swimwear business is becoming more competitive than ever, and it has spread throughout a growing umber of distri- bution channels. Going forward, it is anticipated that this competition will become tougher as the internet will continue to take market share away from brick-and-mortar stores.

Consumer buying patterns According to Koplin, the size of the overall swimwear industry doesn’t change that much from year to year anymore. She stated, “Generally, I’d say that this year’s business is probably down by about 5%, due mainly to a rough start to the season, brought on by the Florida hurricanes.” Lynne Koplin, president of In addition to the odd weather patterns, Apparel Ventures, Inc.

30 KnitAmericas Swimwear fabrics for 2005/06

for Hafner, sited the important trends in warp knits for swimwear. “Satins and luster have been important. We are doing matte/shine combinations, crinkle, and pucker looks, meshes, and tonal patterns. We see geometric and plaid influenced patterns as well,” she noted. “And, there are always ribs in the mix, which continue from season to season, although the configuration may change. We do not do printing, but we make the base cloth for the print product.” Right now the prints continue to be very retro-inspired. Koplin noted, “The print story is really coming from the 50’s and 60’s. It is much like what is seen in vintage stores today — graphic, Hawaiian- inspired florals, geometrics, etc.” In colors, both Koplin and Gordon see the same trends. The citrus brights, combined with dark inky colors. Koplin stated, “I think pink has basically run its course. It looks like the greens are doing well right now — lime greens, mint greens, and pale A selection of warp knitted tricot fabrics from Hafner USA Inc. shades. I think we’re heading into more blues going forward. Brown is still a great consumers needs. neutral. And, we’re selling black particularly Koplin explained, “We’re well this year I think, this is mainly because doing a lot more cup sizing, as the customer hasn’t updated her black suit the consumers’ bust sizes have increased in customers are asking for some sort of in a long time. Typically, we always sell recent years. For someone who has a D control product. This has become very black, but it depends on the time of year. through a DD, there’s a lot more offerings important in swimwear! We have a Darker colors are usually more important at in the marketplace. One of the main collection of fabrics that offer a range of the beginning of the swim season, which reasons the styling has shifted to halter light control to heavy control. A control starts with the cruise line in late September tops is because it’s a lot easier to fabric is not only achieved through the use into October. Then as the season accommodate a larger bust with a halter of spandex, but can also be developed progresses, you start to see more colors top.” through knit construction technology. checking in the stores.” Control has also become a major issue Fabric control can be accomplished through when discussing the fit of a swimsuit. This the machinery used in the production Importance of fit/control means, they want control in the exterior process, or it can be created in the type of The separate swimwear business continues shell fabric, not only in the support fabrics pattern notation in the fabric. There are to grow, in part because it offers the for the interior construction of the many different ways to build control into a customer a better fitting garment. And, swimsuit. product.” manufactures are responding to the Gordon noted, “Almost all of our Koplin added, “Typically, swimwear needs

Summer 2005 31 Swimwear fabrics for 2005/06

La Blanca by Rod microfibers are used along with texturized Beattie bandeau 2-piece yarns, the fabrics tend to be softer and have more of a cottony hand than the warp knit counterpart.” According to Koplin, there are also interesting techniques that can be achieved in circular knits through more diversification of fibers and textures. “Whether it’s a jacquard construction, a rib, a double knit, or a double-face fabric,” Koplin emphasized, “we focus on circular knits, because it’s a fabric that has a more sophisticated look. It’s also swimwear that can be offered at a higher price point. You won’t see much in circular knit at the lower-priced distri- bution.” On the warp knit side, in addition to the control features that warp knits provide, Swider of Hafner USA pointed to some of the unique fabric techniques that warp knits offer the swimwear manufacturer. In the same way a manufacturer can use an to solve the world’s problems! To appeal to and increases the shoulder line. I think the engineered print for a unique garment, the woman over 40, you really have to reason the halter is so good as a top is Hafner has introduced many engineered provide a solution-based product, whether because it really broadens the wearer’s placement concepts. He noted, “Take a rib, it’s through the fabric that has a high Lycra shoulder line.” for instance, it can be set up any way the content, or by offering different bust sizes customer wants it to fall on the body. We to accommodate larger breasts. Basically, Circular and warp knit fabrics work with the customers’ patternmaker so in order to make the body look thinner, the Koplin said, “We’re a company that uses that the repeats can be made wherever customer wants as much underneath as about 75% circular knits. I believe there is a they want them. It’s a way for the possible to provide support, but she still lot more innovation in circular knits today. customer to bring individuality into their needs to be able to breathe and function in They are a lot more comfortable to wear. lines.” the suit.” And, although they don’t necessarily dry Swider also mentioned some of the One of the that is generating a fast and are typically a little heavier, when advantages of warp knitting in the great deal of interest is Mainstream production of both seamed and seamless Swimsuits’ Miraclesuit. Koplin continued, patterning panels. He said, “We’re bringing “Since we live in a very fat country, the a lot of mesh looks into the market. Some customer wants a swimsuit that makes of these meshes have an athletic look to them look slimmer, and feel thinner. She them, but the hole doesn’t go all the way has discovered that the Miraclesuit, which is through the fabric. It maintains opacity, and made from a warp knit, does that — and yet gives a novelty mesh look within the that’s why it’s probably the best selling construction. We can also make the true brand at retail right now! “ athletic mesh, which has a real hole in the In addition to control, a swimsuit can also fabric. This mesh can be engineered into enhance the figure through camouflage. the tricot, so that the garment can have a Koplin explained, “There’s a lot of draping mesh panel or a ventilation panel in a going on in swimwear today. Since today’s particular place on the garment. It can fabrics have become more refined and even be engineered so that a single lighter in weight, we are now combining garment is half tricot and half mesh these fabrics and heavier weight fabric without the use of seams.” within the same garment. This gives you When it comes to swimwear, it appears the control where it is needed, basically that there are options, and that both through the tummy and the hip areas, circular knits and warp knits have their place along with providing some draping or softer in the market. It really depends on the treatments over the bust. This makes the target customer, and the design demands swimsuit more comfortable on top, draws Too Hot Brazil tropical fruit print of the manufacturer and the consumer as the eye upwards to enhance the bustline, bikini from Apparel Ventures. to which knit fabric is used.

32 KnitAmericas