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Land of Fjords & Seas of Plenty

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Land of Fjords & Seas of Plenty NorwayNORDKAPP LOFOTEN TRONDHEIM WRECKS KRISTIANSAND 25 X-RAY MAG : 10 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Wild diving at Europe’s top Text by Arnold Weisz NordkappTranslated by Peter Symes Top side photos by Arnold Weisz and Stein Johnsen Underwater photos by Stein Johnsen With little regard to the abun- Diving at 71°10’21”N dance of awesome dive sites The expectations were sky high around the island of Magerøya, when we first rolled off the Zodiac it’s the diving in Nordkapp, the and plunged into the big blue Northern Cape, that everybody under the towering 307m high asks for, not just for the sake of Nordkapp plateau. The owner having been there-done that at of Nordkapp Dykkersenter (dive center) Hugo Salamonsen is a native Are you a connoisseur of from Finnmark, the northernmost region in nature diving and open Norway, and as is typical oceans? Nordkapp is here, he wasn’t unduly burdened by modesty. the place for you. From He was going to show us some real diving, dam- the town of Honningsvåg mit—and disappoint us, you have access to the he did not. Below the almost verti- magnificent gullies off cal cliffs, we decended into an indescribable Nordkapp, drift dives in wild and beautiful natu- the Magerøy Sound and ral underwater world. One gully followed after cave diving in the Tufjord another in a very varied terrain. At a depth of 17- just to name a few. 18 meters, we couldn’t feel the ocean swell Europe’s most northern point, but anymore, and swimming along also because of the fantastic ter- the wall, we come across big hol- rain below the vertical cliffs. lows encircled by kelp forest. A King crab has taken refuge under an sea anemone clinging to the steep Vertical cliffs of Nordkapp, top of Europe rocky underwater cliffs of Nordkapp INSET: A hermit crab sports the latest fashion in sea anemone decor 26 X-RAY MAG : 10 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Nordkapp Our senses are go out the way we constantly being entered and con- bombarded here. clude this dive by The visibility is excel- doing a little round lent, and above in the kelp forest. us, we see how the From a depth of surf is breaking and only a few meters, slamming into foam we make our final as it hits the rocks. ascent while look- We enter a gully, ing up at the steep where a squadron cliff, which is the of coalfish swiftly very fringe of conti- sweep across the nental Norway. kelp, flying low in formation. We enter another gully mov- Spooky night diving is trying to hide but is given away by its ing forward in a jerky fashion as the We were also able to make a couple rolling eyes scanning my every move- swell above makes the water pulsate of great night dives on this trip – which ment. I suddenly get goosebumps as down here. Some times it is necessary is not really possible during the high a dark shadow in front of me moves. to grab hold of a kelp stalk, to stay put season when the midnight sun provides The beam of my torch cuts through the when the current recedes outwards. 24-hour daylight. Great night dives can water like a sword and strikes a wolf fish In the narrow gullies, we encounter be done only a few minutes drive from right in the forehead. It just lies there dense beds of sea anemonae. The Honningsvåg, and it is absolutely worth- munching on sea snails with its impres- colourful ten- while spending some hours down there sive dentures. “Bon appetite,” we can’t tacles sway one evening rather than hanging out in help murmuring to ourselves before we with the cur- the pub. press on with our dive. rent. Here Swimming around in the shallow and there, a kelp forest in the soothing darkness of Cave diving curious squat the inner fjord is a unique experience. In Tufjorden, on the island of lobster pokes You are never quite sure what you are Magerøya’s west side, we find a cave. its head out going to encounter next. You sweep At a depth of 4-5 meters, there is an to see who is the surroundings with the beam of your opening taking one about 80 meters coming to visit. torch, and suddently something blinks into the mountain. A good deal of this The path back. An enormous cod comes closer passage is rather narrow, so diving here starts to get to investigate matters and see who should be reserved for high tide and quite narrow, or what is intruding in on his peaceful calm seas. Otherwise, the swell would so we turn evening. probably send you tumbling around out around and On the light sandy bottom, a plaice of control like clothes in a dryer. The King crab rules below the waves around CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Reindeer graze on the plains; A snail carries its Nordkapp INSET: Spines of a nudibranch home with it on one large foot pad; Brilliant sea anemone sways in the current 27 X-RAY MAG : 10 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Nordkapp The innermost parts of this cave opens up but the entrance and exit weather has a great into a spacious cavern with 5-6 meters up makes for quite an exciting deal to say when to the ceiling and a big space of air. and special underwater swim it comes to diving This dive is not for the claustrophobic. for those who have a propen- around Magerøya. After a while in the dark, you start wonder- sity for this kind of adrenaline But it is always pos- ing whether there might be a dragon lurk- rush. sible to find dive sites ing in the shadows while you frantically fin The less experienced can that are sheltered so your way back to daylight. still get their kicks by restrict- you can dive any time The cave itself is not all that spectacular, ing themselves to the first 10-15 meters of of year. Perhaps, you will have to endure the entrance where there is still daylight a bumpy ride to the site or lashing rain or and direct access to the open sea. In the wind. According to Hugo you don’t get far opening to the cave, it is still possible to in these parts if you are not prepared to be marvel at the polished rockface and the flexible around your comfort requirements. play of light on its surface without having to It is not a place for whiners. venture into the realm of absolute darkness. On the other hand, the Arctic Ocean And the diving outside the cave is not might, all of a sudden, show off and bad either. Lots of kelp and a very varied present its most pleasant side when the topography that descends into the depths sea is dead-calm, like a blue rug, while the as you travel into the fjord. Below the sun shines from a deep blue sky. But be southern cliffs, the sea bed is strewn with advised: bring with you clothing for all types boulders covered with dense beds of sea of weather and seasons. If you are properly anemone. dressed, you will always be able to enjoy the magnificent sceneries up here—regard- Four seasons less of what the weather throws at you. This There is no point in denying that the is Northern Norway at it’s best and worst. LEFT: Giant Sunstar graces the rocky reef under Nordkapp; INSET: Crimson tentacles of a sea CLOCKEWSIE FROM TOP LEFT INSET: Red striped shrimp on kelp; Entering the cave at anemone Tufjorden; fish heads hang on lines for the birds to feed; INSET: Striated red scallop 28 X-RAY MAG : 10 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Nordkapp Nordkapp is locat- ed at the top of Europe On top of Europe with 250 HP outboards. Even in Nordkapp rises 307 meters out of the Arctic Ocean a bigger swell, these boats have and 200,000 tourists find their way here in order to no problem travelling at speeds claim that they have made it to the top of Europe. up to 30 knots with a group of They want to experience the midnight sun from the divers on board. most northern point in Europe. Well, that is what Each boat takes up to 10 per- they think. sons, and most trips are day trips The most northern point is, in fact, Knivskjellodden, where provisions and air are a little futher to the west. However, Nordkapp is brought along for a full day’s far more impressive than the little lame and boring outing with 2-3 dives each. The tongue of land to the northwest. dive center has at least 10 com- The cliffs at Nordkapp is impressive and a must- plete sets of rental equipment, see even though it costs a whopping NOK 185,- drysuits and lamps for hire. Airfills (about USD 30). It is still worthwhile. Aside from the are offered to both 200 and 300 astonishing view itself, there is a museum, restau- bar. If you are missing a piece rant, chapel and Omnimax movie theatre. of equipment, you can prob- Honningsvåg isn’t just pictoresque, it is also a working fishing port The 17-minute long movie is made by Ivo ably find what you need in the Caprino and gives a fantastic presentation of what well-stocked dive shop.
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  • Værøy Kommune Elektro På Værøy Rådhuset, 8063 Værøy Tel

    Værøy Kommune Elektro På Værøy Rådhuset, 8063 Værøy Tel

    Værøy Municipality Text– Erling Skarv Johansen Photos– Leif Arne Olaussen and Erling Skarv Johansen A vibrant coastal community Life on Værøy In the middle of the open sea, near the fabled Moskstraumen Maelstrom, lies the island of Værøy – an active and intriguing fishing village with a rich history, midnight sun, white beaches, bird nesting cliffs, rapidly changing weather and a distinctive landscape. Surrounded by the sea, skerries and spectacular mountains, 750 people live here on the island, which is often referred to as „a hidden gem“. The landscape of Værøy could very well be prescribed as a cure for what ails you! A modern and vibrant island community Thriving cultural life Sørland is the island‘s main centre, and here you will find shops A wide range of clubs and associations ensures that there is and a café, local clothing designs and handicrafts, in addition to always something happening on Værøy at any given time. There a post office, school, day-care centre and doctor. Good transport is an activity for everyone here, regardless of age – whether it be connections are very important in a modern society, and we have spinning, skating, scouting, soccer, Christian Sports Contact, se- natural gas ferries and helicopters that go to Bodø every day. The nior dancing, fitness training, a youth club, a male choir, a female power grid on the island is buried underground together with fibre choir, the local radio or home arts and crafts! cable to the island, which provides very good coverage that opens up new opportunities. Stolt leverandør av tørr sk og lute sk fra Værøy www.brodreneberg.no www.brodreneberg.no People dare to take a chance here! On Værøy, there are many creative commercial actors, and the municipality is one of the country‘s most productive.