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Bratislava, Slovakia Pocket Guides Short Break You take the highway... The main road into the capital slices between its towering white castle and popular old centre Bratislava, Slovakia Whether palace-hopping, crypt-gazing or tasting the city at June’s Food Festival, there’s more to Bratislava than its much-visited historic centre, says Sarah Reid hile neighbouring Vienna and a Gothic fortress into a Baroque confection beloved Bratislava’s Jewish quarter suffered perhaps Prague arguably boast more of by socialites and celebrities – a six-year-old Mozart the worst during the ensuing years, being almost an initial wow-factor, Bratislava even performed in the Palffy Palace (now a gallery). completely razed during the early ’70s to build the wins hands-down for intrigue. Given the turbulent two centuries that followed, Most SNP (UFO) Bridge. Today, this is one of the Yet it can also do ‘pretty’, too. it’s a miracle that so many architectural examples city’s iconic sights – a bridge topped by a cupola The SlovakianW capital is dominated by a white of Bratislava’s heyday survived. From the ornate that appears to hover over the Danube like a flying ‘fairytale’ castle, which gazes over to its historic Slovak National Theatre to the impossibly grand saucer. Brutalist architecture fans could spend centre (known as Old Town). Here lie cobblestone Grassalkovich Palace (dubbed Slovakia’s ‘White days seeking out the bevy of similarly dramatic alleys to wander, sun-drenched squares in which House’), wandering the city reveals glimpses of an buildings that still litter the city’s urban sprawl, to sip pivo (beer), and cute cafés boasting tempting illustrious past, when it was the toast of Europe. but the most famous (Slovak Radio Tower, Freedom tortes. Such is their appeal that many visitors don’t But as the might of the Habsburgs faded, so Square) are an easy walk from the centre. venture any further. But that would be a mistake. too dimmed Bratislava’s light. In 1918, it joined the The last few years have also seen a proliferation History lures you to every corner of the capital. newly formed Czechoslovakia, only to be annexed of hip cafés and bars spring up just beyond the Over the years, Bratislava has served as a strategic by Nazi Germany 20 years later. Under occupation largely tourist-oriented Old Town, many charging base for everyone from the Celts to the Romans. it became a popular target for Allied bombs during a fraction of the prices advertised within the But it truly flourished under the 18th-century reign the Second World War. Yet its dark days weren’t historic centre. And with plenty of ruined castles, of Queen Maria Theresa of the Habsburg dynasty, over. Liberation in 1945 brought with it Soviet rule, wineries and historic villages just a short hop from back when the city (then known as Pressburg) was but while its reputation as a cultural beacon was the city – not to mention Vienna, only an hour-and- the capital of Royal Hungary. Her patronage brought diminished, the architectural legacy of communism a-half upriver – there’s no lack of day-trip options. Shutterstock a golden age, when Bratislava transformed from still defines the city’s unique appeal today. Maybe Bratislava has that wow-factor after all… ⊲ ✃ Wanderlust May 2017 |131 Pocket Guides Short Break ⊳ HERE’S THE PLAN... ■ Essential Info When to go: Year-round. Summer Where to stay: Marrol’s Boutique is best for cultural festivals, though Hotel (hotelmarrols.sk) offers river-cruise crowds also peak during a plush, Art Deco-inspired base in these months. From late November, Old Town; doubles from €119 (£102). the main square hosts one of Europe’s For something different, Dunajský more traditional Christmas markets. Pivovar (dunajskypivovar.sk) is Getting there: Ryanair (ryanair.com) a smart ‘boatel’ docked in the Danube flies from five UK airports to Bratislava that has a private brewery located from £40 return; flight time from inside; doubles from €84 (£78). Day 1: London Stansted is around two hours. Where to eat: Head out of the EXPLORE THE OLD TOWN Getting around: Old Town is both centre to find cheaper, less touristy Get your bearings at Bratislava and a section of Perspex flooring compact and walkable. Bratislava’s cafés, bars and restaurants. Several Castle. The ancient-looking castle offers a glimpse into the catacombs. tram, train, bus and trolley network blocks north of Old Town, on Kozia actually dates from the 1960s, when East of the cathedral lies ‘The can take you further afield, with cross- Street, lies Soupa Bistro (soupa.sk), it was rebuilt in a Renaissance style Watcher’, a series of quirky bronze transport day tickets from €3.50 (£3). which is perfect for a cheap-but- after lying in ruins following a fire in statues that spy on passers-by. Skulk hearty lunch. Modrá Hviezda 1811. Today, it hosts collections from by to Hlavné Námestie (pictured), the (modrahviezda.sk), on Beblaveho the Slovak National Museum (snm. city’s main square, which is framed Street, is another treat, albeit sk), though climbing its lofty Crown by pastel-hued palaces (now mostly expensive by local standards. It Tower is just as satisfying. museums). Get a feel for 18th-century serves quality Slovak dishes in From on high, look for the gold- Bratislava in the restored Apponyi a wonderfully cosy, candlelit space. plated ‘crown’ atop the 14th-century Palace (muzeum.bratislava.sk). More info: Visitbratislava.com St Martin’s Cathedral, before At the northern end of nearby (tourism information) and heading into Old Town to Michalská Street stands Michael’s welcometobratislava.eu get a closer look. The Gate, the only city gate preserved (independent city cathedral’s interior is from Bratislava’s now lost medieval top tip oddly sparse, yet its listings) are both Time your visit to catch fortifications. Finish by climbing its useful local guides. the Slovak Food Festival (1-4 crypts are bursting, five storeys for fine views of the castle. June), held in the grounds of Bratislava Castle. This free event offers a great chance to taste local beers, wines and food while soaking up the summer sun. Day 2: BEHIND THE IRON CURTAIN Day 3: LUNCH AT THE NEIGHBOURS Delve into Bratislava’s more recent Slobody (Freedom Square). Below it, Vienna is so close that it makes sense The pretty little village of Svätý Jur past with a tour of its communist-era the huge 12-tonne Fountain of Union to pop over for lunch on day three – (pictured) lies on the Small Carpathian architecture, which is unlike anything has been out of order for a decade just because you can. Simply jump on Wine Route, just 14km north of the still standing in Europe. Start at the but is a sight to behold nevertheless. one of the fast ferry services that ply capital. It makes for an easy day trip excellent Slovak National Gallery After lunch (try Orbis Street Food; the Danube during summer, though and is easily reached by bus or train. (pictured; sng.sk), across from the orbisfood.sk), head out on a tour with try to avoid Sundays, when most Once there, head to the restaurant Danube. Its severe-looking modern Authentic Slovakia in a vintage 1970s shops close in the Austrian capital. Vinocentrum, on Prostredná Street, wing was added in the 1970s and is Skoda car (authenticslovakia.com). Around 10km upriver, on the to taste a range of Slovak wines. the work of Vladimir Dědeček, the Take in the Slavín War Memorial, the Slovakia-Austria border, you’ll spot Of course, if you’d rather stay city- Slovak architect behind some of the former Iron Curtain border zone and the crumbling 9th-century ramparts of side, try soaking up the local art city’s more controversial communist- the vast concrete housing estate area Devin Castle (muzeum.bratislava.sk). scene at the edgy, modern Nedbalka era relics, including the Supreme that dominates Bratislava’s right bank Take buses 28 or 29 (from under the Gallery (nedbalka.sk) in Old Town. Court building that lies in Old Town. – building blocks of the modern city. ‘UFO’ Bridge) to explore it up close. Then let the local wines come to you Beyond Grassalkovich Palace, you End with a cocktail at the smart The site features a fine archaeological at hip wine bar Viecha (viecha.com), can’t miss the inverted-pyramid shape bar housed in the ‘UFO’ Bridge’s exhibition, but the wide, sweeping which sources its vino from regional Dreamstime of Slovak Radio Tower. This brutalist ‘spaceship’ – the viewing deck fee countryside views from the castle’s producers and has two locations, hulk looms over dilapidated Námestie is waived if you stay for a meal. medieval walls are the real highlight. both just north-east of the centre. Previous page and this 132 | Wanderlust May 2017 ✃.
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