HICCUP IN DIOR-SLIMANE TALKS/2 GOOD AS GOLD/12-13 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • June 19, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear East Meets West NEW YORK — After his recent trip to Tokyo for a store opening, Ralph Lauren returned home with more than a few souvenirs. Much of his women’s resort collection, in fact, was inspired by the streets of the Japanese capital. The results? Traditional prints in vivid colors and racy riffs on sportswear classics, like this halter swimsuit and shorts. For more on the season, see pages 4 and 5.

Riding a Rising Tide: Buyers, Press Struggle With Boom in Resort By Bridget Foley NEW YORK — So resort’s no romp on the beach, you say? You’re not alone. The giddy glee with which the season opened back in mid-May thanks to the flamboyant arrivals here of Dior and Chanel has descended into mass exhaustion. At the same time, endless conversation about the protracted schedule and number of openings has held industry attention as raptly as would a salty sex scandal. A whiny bunch? So some might accuse. It is, after all, the job of retailers and editors to cover collections as they open. But there is no question See Escape, Page 6 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 WWD.COM Dior, Slimane Said at Stalemate be likely well received by the fashion press. It is WWDMONDAY By Miles Socha Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear understood Dior would pursue a similar strat- PARIS — If Gucci Group could bid arrivederci egy should it fail to reach an agreement with to its design dynamo Tom Ford, could Christian Slimane, and continue with modernist men’s FASHION Dior say au revoir to its men’s wear star Hedi wear, but with an aim to improve profi tability and Inspired by the vintage treasures he discovered in Japan, Ralph Lauren Slimane? reach a broader customer base. 4 created a resort line full of bright colors, embroidery and Asian prints. Sources said Dior has reached an impasse in As reported, the launch of a Hedi Slimane negotiations to renew Slimane’s contract as the women’s wear line was one subject discussed at designer of Dior Homme, and salary demands the negotiating table this time around. It could GENERAL are among the chief roadblocks. not immediately be learned if Dior is interested Designers may call it cruise or resort, but the common theme is that the The designer’s three-year contract is set to in underwriting such a venture — or if Slimane 1 season just sails on with a loose calendar. expire next month and could make for a tense might be negotiating with other parties. Aéropostale’s back-to-school preview won over analysts, who say its atmosphere at the Dior Homme show July 4 at Slimane declined all comment. A Dior 2 shift to a more sophisticated look may draw an older customer. the crescendo of men’s fashion week. spokesman had no comment. A resolution is still possible and talks contin- Negotiations to renew Slimane’s contract were Christian Dior is said to have reached an impasse in negotiations to ue, but sources familiar with the negotiations are prickly in 2001, but resulted in the designer add- 2 renew Hedi Slimane’s contract as the designer of Dior Homme. already drawing comparisons to the Ford situa- ing responsibilities for Dior men’s fragrances and Calvin Klein Collection is taking a stark turn in its fall ad campaign, with tion. Gucci Group stunned the fashion world in skin care. Dior Dermo System, a minimalist skin 14 creative director Francisco Costa having a signifi cant infl uence. 2003 when it parted ways with its famous design care program concocted by Slimane, is slated to director. arrive on French shelves this fall. Pringle has a fresh look with its ad campaign under new creative director Sources said Dior management — balking at One of men’s wear’s brightest lights, Slimane 14 Clare Waight Keller, breaking from tradition to focus on the individual. Slimane’s demands — has been quietly girding burst onto the fashion scene in the late Nineties for a possible split and refi ning a contingency with his sharply tailored, often androgynous de- plan, including a possible replacement candi- signs for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. He EYE Paris’ coolest new place to stay, Hotel Amour, is about as insider as it date. The identity of the front-runner could not signed on with Dior in 2000 after being courted immediately be learned; however, one source de- heavily by Prada Group and Gucci, which had of- 9 gets, essentially a hideaway for friends of its three high-profi le owners. scribed the choice as “wise” and one that would fered him a signature fashion house. Obituary...... 16 Classifi ed Advertisements...... 17-19 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name.

WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Aéropostale Gets High Grades for B-T-S RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 129. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- tral colors and an increased use of detailing with ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- By Jeanine Poggi and Jessica Pallay ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, a tighter, muscular silhouette. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers NEW YORK — Aéropostale’s back-to- Aéropostale’s management has in- Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and school preview last week won over creased its utilization of its Jimmy’Z C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior analysts, who say the specialty re- retail flag for interpreting leading Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance tailer’s shift to a more sophisticated fashion trends and allowing for migra- Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. look may draw an older, more fash- tion of these items into Aéropostale Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable ion-forward customer. stores. Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS The specialty retailer is also look- Until merchandise actually hits CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ing to draw in more teens with a up- store floors, it is unclear if there ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four dated store format. will be any change in price points in weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Regarding b-t-s, neutral grays, conjunction with the more mature Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. browns and burgundies will re- style, said Lyn Rhoads Walther, se- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, place lollipop colors. And while nior analyst at Wachovia Securities. and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions denim remains a key item for b-t-s, However, over the past few months, and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Aéropostale will add a variety of pant Aéropostale has scaled back on pro- our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would lengths and fabrications in masculine motions and slightly raised ticket interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise silhouettes and traditional styles. prices, pushing the company closer us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- “Aéropostale’s core customer to its competitors American Eagle SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- is growing up and the company is Outfi tters and Hollister. ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, growing up. They didn’t take ad- Wachovia Securities, which main- OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED vantage of this last year,” said Eric tained its “market perform” rat- M. Beder, of Brean Murray, Carret ing, is concerned that as the brand TUESDAY: Licensing 2006 International, New York & Co. ages in style and moves away from (through Thursday). Brean Murray reiterated an “ac- graphic Ts and bright hoodies, it is São Paulo Fashion Week (through June 26). cumulate” rating and $36 target becoming even less well defi ned. price in a research note published “I really like the way the line WEDNESDAY: Hennes & Mauritz reports second-quar- last Tuesday, citing tighter, skinnier looks, but it may not attract its ter sales and earnings. and sexier tops as a fashion driver younger customers,” Walther said. for women. Regarding the new store for- THURSDAY: WWD Technology Leadership Forum, New “Even the woman who is not fash- mat, the specialty retailer unveiled Yo r k . ion-forward or doesn’t have a lot this at the Woodfi eld Mall location Asia’s Fashion Jewelry & Accessories Fair and Hong of money to spend wants to look in Schaumburg, Ill., earlier this Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair, Hong Kong (through Sunday). good,” Beder said. “Now it’s all month. Aéropostale’s chief oper- there. They don’t have to go to an ating offi cer, Tom Johnson, said FRIDAY: Sposa Italia bridal and formalwear fair, Milan H&M for their fashion-forward that after seven years of operat- (through June 26). merchandise.” ing the current prototype, “it COMING THIS WEEK The fall line is focusing on was time to evolve the format a balanced assortment that to be more interesting, inter- is more wear-now than last active and stimulating. It puts year. Summer items including a new face on the brand.” shorts, Ts and tanks will re- The retailer’s goal was to In Brief main in stores longer, allow- bring “a sense of discovery” to ing for layering with key back- teen shoppers and offer a wide ● MALAYSIA TRADE TALKS: U.S. and Malaysian negotiators on to-school classifi cations such as zip array of sensory experiences, Friday wrapped up the first round of what Assistant U.S. Trade hoodies, denim boot-cut bottoms from the store entrance to the com- Representative Barbara Weisel described as “productive” talks and polo shirts. pletion of the shopping process. on a free trade agreement that would lower barriers to com- “Last year, the company missed The exterior of the store is shroud- merce. Weisel said during a conference call with reporters that numerous opportunities to sell ed in window-obscuring screens that there is still much work to be done. Her Malaysian counterparts warmer-weather gear (shorts, lift and fall every 15 seconds to entice have made clear that apparel and textiles are an important sec- fl ip-fl ops and screen Ts) at the be- passersby with mystery, explained tor to them. Imports of apparel and textiles from Malaysia to- ginning of the season. This year, Johnson. Inside, merchandise is taled 340.6 million square meter equivalents, valued at $728.1 Aéropostale will be fully pre- clearly displayed, between spacious million, for the year ended April 30. The next of what is ex- pared and will fl ow product in fl oor settings and additional man- pected to be four more rounds of talks this year is scheduled in season and ready for immediate nequins. The cash wrap is backlit, Washington the week of July 17. wearing throughout fall,” Beder as are lifestyle graphics throughout said in the report. the store. ● GREG NORMAN ADDS VP: Eddie Fadel has joined Greg Nor- While the greatest revolu- To complement the “active life- man Collection as vice president of merchandising. Previously, tion has been on Aéropostale’s style and environmental relation- Fadel had similar posts in development and sourcing with Ahead women’s apparel, there is also ship” of Aéropostale’s shoppers, and Ashworth Inc. He reports to Suzy Biszantz, president and a shift in men’s wear going into Johnson and his team also added chief executive offi cer, and will work with the design team man- the fall season. As with women’s More-sophisticated b-t-s skylights and stretched bunches aged by Sarah Hand McAleer, senior design director. apparel, men will see more neu- looks from Aéropostale. of bamboo from fl oor to ceiling.

4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 Near and Far INSPIRED BY THE VINTAGE TREASURES HE DISCOVERED IN JAPAN, RALPH LAUREN IS SHOWING a resort collection full of bright colors, embroidery and Asian prints. He used the playful motifs on everything from little dresses and cropped pants to halters and even swimsuits. At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey said he wants the clothes to look decorated, but down-to-earth. “The exaggerated details are almost masculine, and it feels right to contrast them with the feminine shapes and fabrics,” he said. To wit, high-waisted dresses and trapeze coats are fi nished with oversized nautical buttons and buckles. For his third resort collection, Derek Lam is staying close to home. Inspired by the New York City Ballet, he went for a variety of soft looks with built-in layers, all in a dusty palette that includes pistachio, light rose and dove gray. Embroidery also abounds, in allover treatments or smaller details, as on the shoulder of a silk jersey sweatshirt.

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren

Burberry Prorsum WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Burberry Prorsum

Derek Lam

Derek Lam PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TIM JENKINS AND ZACK SECKLER JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 Escape From Resort

Continued from page one the recent explosion of cruise/resort as part of the overall apparel business — those percentage-of-sales fi gures cited just keep escalating — has proven the pro- cess for covering it woefully inadequate. Once upon a time, resort was pri- marily an American invention, created by and for the American market. In the early Nineties, designers held shows, but it was a handful of houses, presenting typically in their showrooms to a minis- cule audience, the proverbial bells and whistles on hold until spring. That was a fashion lifetime ago. Today, the fierce demand for more and more new merch in the stores ever earlier is the industry’s driving force. Retailers demand, so fashion houses supply and with remarkable success, given an endless litany of challenges from dearth of contemplative creative time, to sit-and-wait-for-fabrics time to Italy-shuttered-in-August time. On the up side, we should all be awed by designers’ ongoing ability and willing- ness to churn out creativity on demand, and of their operations — even the min- iscule ones — for doggedly fi nding ways to deliver the goods. (It is fascinating, too, to note that consumer perception of resort is about more than delivery dates. Increasingly, retail and house executives fi nd their clients responding to clothes that haven’t been publicized ad nause- am.) On the down side, this all happens so relentlessly that with the notable ex- ception of Donna Karan, no one seems to question whether this is in fact the single best way to conduct business, or if heads and schedules are simply spinning too fu- riously to stop and question the system. Over the past several weeks, that system didn’t break down — for all the aforemen- tioned whining, its population is too profes- sional for that — but neither could its slug- gishness be disguised by the proud donning of all those of-the-moment chunky wedges to wend from one opening to the next. Resort didn’t jump up and bite all at once. Rather, over the past few years, subtle and not-so-subtle growth was met with small-picture accommodation: an- other appointment squeezed in here or there; a day or two extra tacked on to this trip or that. Now however, minor scheduling tweaks have proved patently inadequate. Those who go to the spring and fall shows expect those events to dominate their lives for a month and have long planned accordingly; this un- expected, wide swing of resort opening dates has left little time to deal properly with other aspects of business. The pre- sentations started in mid-May and con- tinue through this week, with some major design houses requiring retailers to start all over again in July for spring one. Despite the ever-increasing fashion quotient of the resort collections, be- cause the openings are so spread out and disorganized, it is more diffi cult to conceptualize the season as a whole. Other pragmatic issues have surfaced as well: out-of-town retailers must make more frequent, previously unbudgeted, trips to New York; for magazines, June has traditionally been a time to shoot. There has been no dearth of “what should we do-ing” through the comings If this is your idea of resort, chances are you and goings of what some now call this haven’t spent the last month in New York. “third season.” Not surprisingly, just BRIGITTE BARDOT PHOTO BY GEORGE W. HALES/STRINGER BRIGITTE GEORGE W. BARDOT PHOTO BY about everyone has an opinion. Many favor the establishment of a consolidated smaller operations and could change the many of those questioned liked the idea in a formal show, informal presentation market period — not to be confused with delightful breezy nature of resort fashion, of a formalized two-week market period or market appointments. a show week, which most seem not to should designers become increasingly, in New York during which Americans Consensus? Not yet. But there is want. The mass embrace of formal shows and inevitably, preoccupied with “show” and Europeans with the means to do so near-unison on one matter: the status would be unrealistic financially for elements other than the clothes. Rather, would show here as they chose, whether quo has to go. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 7 WWD.COM

To show or not to show? Is resort too long? And should New York be the capital of the The Industry at Sea season? A WWD survey. By Marc Karimzadeh

Karl Lagerfeld Sarah Rutson, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong a show could be used toward something much more “There could be a cruise week, why not? And it’s “A tighter window would obviously be easier. As customer-related. Hello, let’s talk to the customer, in- polite to go somewhere else and take the collection to soon as New York shows resort, Europe should follow stead of the press, for a change.” your audience. Cruise is about traveling, too, no?” on. Going back and forth isn’t the most cost-effective thing when we could do it all in one journey and kill Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue Sidney Toledano, Christian Dior two birds with one stone so to speak. “It’s not easy for us to get on a plane for a fash- “We plan to [show in New York] again next year. It is getting increasingly diffi cult for merchants. ion show in New York. Why should we have to travel It’s perfect timing, we had very good feedback from Merchants need to be able to take time to look at their to N.Y. for a French collection? Not every collection the retailers and we then showed the collection the businesses and not to be constantly on the road as merits a show — maybe the special ones. But I’d much following week in Paris. It shouldn’t become too many seems to be [the case] now.” rather see cruise collections in a showroom.” brands showing because it would be too long.” Michael Burke, Fendi Christopher Bailey, Burberry Michael Kors “I’m not excluding a show in the future. We do “The business has been going so well that clients “I think the chances of it organized into a tent situ- show this primarily for our U.S. customers. We try to kept asking us to sell it beyond Milan. It was just the ation are close to none. And how many small design- make it convenient for the buyers. It is fi rst and fore- right moment to expand — and I love the thought of ers can afford to have a third show? The only plus to a most a collection to be bought. It’s not just an image bringing it home to London, too.” show: It’s at one set time and tells everyone you have thing. It’s a serious business.” to be here, this is important. Roopal Patel, Bergdorf Goodman June is a huge month for shooting. Magazines are Mark Lee, Gucci “Because of budget limitations and work that needs shooting September, shooting and reshooting. To try “Cruise was conceived as an American collection, to be done in New York, not everyone can travel to to do a set fashion week in June would be diffi cult for but it has become international in scope and relevance. Europe. It helps us tremendously that Europeans are editors. The smartest thing, whether you have a show or Nevertheless, it makes sense for European houses to coming and showing here. It would be a great challenge presentation, would be to discuss a two-week time slot.” keep their shows on American soil. Cruise is becoming to coordinate the Europeans and Americans to fi t into more and more important to Gucci and to fashion.” a two-week time frame. I don’t think there should be a Alber Elbaz, Lanvin show week. It would put a lot of pressure on houses that “The beauty of the [cruise] season was that it was a Robert Triefus, Giorgio Armani don’t have the means to stage a show, when they should free season. It was kind of off-season — underground. It’s “Cruise should absolutely be formalized into a con- be focusing on the production and delivery of their fall a collection being done almost directly to the clientele. It cise time period like fall or spring. I believe that the collections because fall begins to hit now.” goes directly to the needs of women. You’re not coming buyers, press and designers would benefi t greatly from to see a fashion show, but to listen to the designer. Virginia Smith, Vogue When you do a show, you think in a different way and “What’s great about resort is that there isn’t the you become more daring and more eccentric.” pressure of a formal show, and the designers are If every season becomes so big and able to focus on great clothes. It also makes these Yves Carcelle, Louis Vuitton “ collections not as exposed as the fall and spring “We don’t feel the need for a [cruise] show now. so important, the question is, will we clothes. It makes the clothes feel more personal. A Some ready-to-wear companies have a lot of whole- more consolidated time frame is good thinking, but sale clients and need to emphasize the cruise to confuse people about what we are I don’t think we need another show week. I feel it’s outside clients. In our case, we have no wholesale, less about shows and more about market appoint- only our own distribution. I think you will see more saying? It just becomes more stuff. ments or informal presentations. The pressure sophisticated presentations for the press. [Cruise] — Derek Lam” of a full-on show is not what you want for resort. has become an economic reality today.” There’s an easiness to the clothes that everyone a coherent presentation or show. As this collection responds to.” Valerie Hermann, Yves Saint Laurent is primarily for the U.S. market, it would make more “We are doing shows with our models in our show- sense for European designers that produce resort to Roberta Meyers, Elle room. We’re doing it in a more intimate way. It’s all have it shown in New York. Both formal shows and “Walks like a duck, talks like a duck — it’s a sea- about the product and delivery, having the right prod- market appointments are fundamental. Having a tight- son. Editors and designers think so. Presumably, buy- uct in the right window of delivery. Everything which er window would bring the top people to your collec- ers do, too.” makes life easier for the customer is best.” tion at a time when they are focused on the category.” Doo-Ri Chung Marc Jacobs Loredana Nastro, Versace “Resort is not so much about trying to make a state- “The thought of a cruise show just freaks me out. “There is no doubt that resort needs to be formal- ment; it’s about having clothes that women want to I’ve already lost some sleep over it. It’s really hard ized in a more concise time period. It will work to ev- wear. For me, a show would be diffi cult fi nancially un- work to get the cruise collection together, and adding eryone’s benefi t from both a time and expense point of less I knew that the stores were going to buy it. With a show into the mix really changes the picture.” view. The fact that the Europeans are showing in New a fashion show, there’s a casting director, producer, York shows the importance that designer luxury brands DJs, models — it’s a huge production that requires a Ralph Toledano, Chloé are placing on the needs of the American market.” larger scale.” “We have to think about our design teams. We must give them some time to clear their minds and to have Vera Wang Stefano Gabbana, Dolce & Gabbana a break. By asking them to mount more shows puts “Formalizing the time frame would be helpful. “Cruise is a service that we offer to the stores and, more pressure on them. Cruise is based on real com- Everybody is complaining. This starts in mid-May and ultimately, to the fi nal consumer, who both want a con- mercial needs.” goes on and on. Whether or not to have a show depends stant fl ow of fresh merchandise. It has a lower price upon the house. It is a huge effort to put on a show.” tag compared to the runway collection, which absorbs Donna Karan the costs of the show. The clothes are defi nitely more “The press doesn’t need one more fashion week. Glenda Bailey, Harper’s Bazaar commercial hence more profi table, so if we were to The problem is not about resort being so big and “I would love if we could designate a period of stage a show — with top models, great location, fl ying spring not important any more. It’s pre-fall that’s the time in which everybody could show resort. That to New York etc. — that would automatically refl ect problem because it gets delivered in June. Spring has would help all of our diaries, and also our planning, on the fi nal price, which would be less competitive. I the wrong selling time; resort has the wrong selling because we intend to shoot resort in two weeks time don’t think the retailers care for a show if that means time. With fall coming in June, by October, when it [for the November issue]. My favorite form of presen- more expensive clothes.” actually turns fall, [stores] need another collection. tation is when it’s intimate and you get to talk to the Basically, we are killing fall. designer and the design team. When designers come Steven Kolb, CFDA We have done resort shows before. I’d love to do [a to New York, it’s an opportunity for us to see them. I “If there were an overwhelming interest to try to formal resort show] if [LVMH] gave me the money.” want to encourage that as much as possible.” put a structure in place…then it would be appropri- ate for us to do that. [A show] is a lot of extra work Ann Stordahl, Neiman Marcus Vittorio Missoni, Missoni and expense. We would advise younger designers to “Anytime a market period can be consolidated “We’re a small company and though cruise ac- take their time, and not feel pressured to do [a show] is helpful, certainly for those of us who don’t live in counts for 50 percent of our summer sales, it would because others are doing it. They should make sure to New York. But I don’t think it’s necessary to have still be too costly for us to stage a fashion show the be ready from a business and design perspective.” another week of shows. As retailers, we still have to way Chanel and Dior did. It would automatically hike write the collections and would prefer small defi lés in up the prices.” Peter Som the showrooms. I also think adding the expense of an- “It would be great if there was consolidation [of other show is a problem, and could impact designers’ Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue dates]. It would help in terms of buyers. If I had an- creativity in terms of spring.” “There is a lot of travel that costs a lot of money. other show, I’d probably lose my mind. Resort is really This has to be streamlined. The spring and fall sea- about great, beautiful, wearable clothes, and it’s more Nicolas Topiol, Christian Lacroix sons are much easier to navigate. market-focused. We have had a look-book to make “[A cruise week] sounds like something that would It’s always interesting to see the designer’s spirit sure buyers in Europe, the Middle East and Asia can make sense in the future. For a brand like ours, which as represented on the runway, but I don’t think we still see the collection. Putting on a show is defi nitely is Paris based, it could be interesting to show a cruise need another offi cial show season. The clothes must a great expense. Twice a year is pretty much what we collection in New York. Cruise is really a U.S. collec- always translate to a real woman’s needs, not a run- can do right now.” tion from its origin.” way fantasy. The production expenses in producing Continued on page 8 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 WWD.COM Resort: Fashion’s Topic Du Jour

Continued from page 7 Marco Bizzarri, Stella McCartney Candy Pratts Price, Style.com “We present resort in our New York showroom fi rst, but feel it’s im- “We used to do appointments, then John and Karl blew into town. portant for us to accommodate our clients who can’t come to the States I love the taste of it, in one way, but an appointment with Carolina by organizing a selling campaign in Milan in the weeks after as well.” is divine, to sit and have her explain the clothes. Zac did a fi lm. I do love all those experiences. I don’t think people would send editors to Peter Dundas, Emanuel Ungaro Europe then go home and back to couture. It’s not cost effi cient at all. I “The dates should be consolidated out of prevention of cruelty to do think the calendar is a bit spread. Do it as a show and get everyone journalists. I like the idea of everybody coming to New York, so you there. Intimate, in your showroom, a show. Edit your collection to 30, don’t have to go to three cities.” 29 pieces. I don’t need to see it in three colors. But give me the spirit of what you are.” Carolina Herrera “In terms of timing, everybody should show together. I like infor- Alex Bolen, Oscar de la Renta mal shows or individual appointments. That allows you to see all the “Resort is becoming an increasingly important season. An orga- clothes, and comes more easily than thinking about 1,200 people in a nized show calendar makes sense for all the buyers and the press. tent and the music and the hair and the makeup.” If it’s in Bryant Park or everyone has individual shows, that can be fi gured out. First things fi rst, let’s get a week scheduled. [We Joseph Velosa, Matthew Williamson have] made it clear to 7th on Sixth that having a resort show is a “I hope that pre-collections don’t turn into runway shows. There will top priority.” come a time when buyers will get frustrated with buying all the time. Some formalization of pre-collection sales is required. There’s also an Stan Herman, CFDA extra dynamic that clothes for a runway show need, which you would “Any time you organize something, it makes it stronger. It would have to add to pre-collections if they were shown on the runway.” take the CFDA to sit down with designers and poll them to fi nd out what their desires were, poll the publicity people for their preferenc- Mario Grauso, Puig Fashion es, and the 7th on Sixth advisory committee to see what they think.” “To consolidate the calendar is the only reasonable thing to do. The only fear about doing a show for resort is that we don’t want it to be- Mark Badgley, Badgley Mischka come not about the customer. It’s too important to the women who buy “Cruise is equally as important as spring, and actually more impor- the clothes. We can’t make it just press.” tant for sales. Unfortunately, spring is the one that gets the big show. In Dior, the future, cruise should have presentations and we should have three May 16 Buffy Birrittella, Polo Ralph Lauren collections a year.” “It must be a nightmare [for those covering the resort market]. It should be somehow reined. Resort and pre-spring are very different Oscar de Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection, women’s for us. Resort is all take-away. We don’t show pre-spring to the press. la Renta, “Imagine one more season for all of you. The reality is, what was This is designed with the runway in mind. This is the week when we June 5 resort when it fi rst started? In essence, resort is to help stores have need to show resort in order to ship and get fabrics. If the time frame more product and to keep them looking fresh. That should continue to is consolidated, it would have to be at a time that works for us.” be the focus of it.” Virginie Mouzat, Le Figaro, Paris Derek Lam “I don’t think it makes sense for European houses to show their “There is only so much merchandise anybody needs. If every sea- cruise collections in New York when their roots are here. But showing son becomes so big and so important, the question is, will we confuse defi nitely has given cruise more visibility. The clothes have become people about what we are saying? It just becomes more stuff. And per- more sophisticated and complicated, too. Not every house, though, sonally, I don’t think we need more stuff.” needs to show cruise. It’s a privilege for the chosen few.”

Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta Oscar de la Renta “New York should be smart and claim the season. There was never “Today, competition is not local but worldwide. If Chanel and Dior a response in Europe to cruise. But now magazines have started to do shows in New York….There’s no question, we need to establish a cover it, retailers are reacting. We opened for 10 days in Milan for specifi c time when everybody shows. From the point of view of ex- Europe, Russia and the Middle East, and sales were 10 times more pense [for retailers] we need to formalize a week.” than they were last year. As a retailer, you want things shown together. You cannot fl y to New York every fi ve minutes because everyone shows Robert Duffy, Marc Jacobs at a different time. The dates should be formalized.” “A resort show? I don’t want us to be an hour late again.”

Susan Sokol, Vera Wang Apparel Divisions Dan Lecca, photographer “Tightening the resort market would be great. We have buyers from “I remember a time when there were resort shows, but only by New all over the world and nobody knows when they should come. From a York designers. Then it stopped. All of a sudden, there’s this trend of business standpoint, shortening the spread would help strategically in a proper show — Chanel, Dior, Oscar, Gucci. I think the season should terms of knowing where our sales are going and getting a more focused be formalized into a week. It would be easier for everybody — retail- picture of the season sooner.” ers and press. But they don’t have to have big shows.”

Tom Murry, Calvin Klein Inc. Evelyn Gorman, Mix, Houston “We are doing a lot of things short of a runway show to better show- “I am back and forth a lot for resort because the timetable for case the pre-collections. We don’t contemplate, at this time, having a American designers is different for European designers. Resort is the runway show for pre-collections. It’s not fi nancially feasible to go from Gucci, craziest. I have three trips to New York in June, two or three in July two shows to four. There is only one way to do a runway show in our June 14 and another in August — and that’s just for resort. I wish there was a view: completely right or not at all.” concise period, but I don’t think it’s logistically possible.”

Ed Filipowski, KCD Worldwide Melanie Rickey, Grazia, a weekly British fashion magazine “Resort is so important, but this season it has almost become a bur- The success of pre-collections shows perhaps how outdated the den to the industry. Now May/June is just like September/October and runway system is. There’s no point for a journalist in having another February/March. It should be consolidated into a two-week period. My runway season. Why create another time that you have to go away, European clients are defi nitely interested in showing resort in New York when they can just send you a look book? Runway shows started at in some capacity. But I don’t think anybody wants a third major season. a time when we didn’t have the Internet, and I don’t think a runway The format for showing should be casual.” season of pre-collections would be very interesting.”

Behnaz Sarafpour Sarah Easley, Kirna Zabête “Whatever we can do to make it easier for people we can work with “Right now, I am happy with the status quo of showroom appoint- — the editors and buyers — is good. So far, the only complaint we are ments. It’s working for us. We sell a lot of smaller designers and it’s hearing is the fact that it’s very spread out. It makes sense to shorten tremendously expensive to stage another runway show. We’d be taking the time frame. From feedback we’ve gotten, it’s not so much that peo- a step backward if [the system] was limiting a lot of opportunities for ple want to see it on the runway or don’t want to see it on the runway, younger designers to do a resort collection.” but more in terms of organization. I personally don’t want to do run- way show. It’s an economical and workload issue.” Robert Burke, Robert Burke Associates “I wouldn’t be surprised if [the season] became more concise be- Lars von Bennigsen, Temperley London cause retailers, especially those who have to travel, are not going to “It would be good if all buyers came to New York. I do not think a for- want to spend two months in the market.” mal show is needed, and it would put enormous stress onto the system for fashion houses and the press. There are fi nancial implications on both Hilary Alexander, The Daily Telegraph, London sides and I am not sure that the benefi ts outweigh the costs at this point.” “I don’t think resort has much to do with the U.K. It’s more of an American-centric thing, relevant to that market. You don’t see people Stephanie Solomon, Bloomingdale’s in New Bond street walking around in resortwear, or the windows with “During this time of the year, we are really busy planning the signs saying ‘resortwear just in’. It’s more about Americans and cruises Christmas holiday season, so it’s nice to see resort more informally and winter sun. I think it’s just another way of selling. I think the bag in a showroom. We would benefi t [from a concise period]. I feel very market has been saturated, so they’re thinking ‘Great! Let’s big up re- strongly about European lines, especially those with a big American sortwear!’” clientele, showing during the resort market week.” — With contributions by WWD Staff WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 9 WWD.COM Woman on the Verge THAT LOVIN’ FEELING Paris’ coolest new place to stay — Hotel Amour — is about as insider CANNES, France — as it gets, billed essentially as a hideaway for friends of its three high- Yohana Cobo may have Yohana profi le owners. been an actress for almost Cobo André, owner of trendy Paris nightclubs Le Baron and Paris Paris, two decades, but she and restaurateurs Thierry Costes and Emmanuel Delavenne recently considers “Volver” her opened the 20-room boutique hotel at 8 Rue de Navarin, a few feet lucky break. from lively Rue des Martyrs in the popular ninth arrondissement. The Pedro Almodóvar Bringing their respective expertise and ideas, the trio decided to fi lm won its cast, including make an unconventional and artsy inn where their friends would feel Cobo and Penélope Cruz, at home. The result is a fun, simple, yet comfortable boutique hotel the Palme d’Or at last with a restaurant and bar open practically around the clock. month’s Cannes Film André, also a famous graffi ti artist, went for his favorite fl ashy Festival. But Cobo only got colors in most rooms — apple green, pink and red, with matching the part after enduring curtains and carpets or painted fl oors. There are also black Almodóvar’s usual rigorous bedrooms, a funny black-and-yellow bee-theme room, and one casting sessions — even boasting a playful display of toy-like objects. Most bathrooms are though she landed her fi rst open-concept. agent in Madrid at age two, “We wanted a bohemian feel, a very human place with a soul,” says and is a household name André, who invited a few of his artistic friends to decorate several in Spain, with a number of rooms. TV series under her belt as Artist Sophie Calle (who often incorporates beds into her work), well as a handful of feature industrial designer Marc Newson, graphic guru M&M and illustrator fi lms. Cobo’s boyishly Pierre Le-Tan each offered a signature touch. Le-Tan, for example, angular face and wiry painted directly on the walls in graphic black and white. pubescent frame made her Prices ranges from 100 euros ($124 at current exchange) to 250 perfect for the role of the euros ($310) a night for a special suite equipped with a wet bar and broody teenage daughter a terrace. Hourly rates, say for an afternoon siesta, are also offered, in Almodóvar’s fl ick, but and Internet access and movie rentals are free. it was her performance as The restaurant, which looks out onto a garden terrace, will serve Isabel in Carlos Saura’s bistro food while Alexander, a bartender André imported from New “The Seventh Day” that York, shakes the cocktails. Given André’s reputation for nightlife, grabbed the attention of public areas are expected to rock into the wee hours, which is why he Almodóvar. made soundproofi ng a top priority. “I’ve been in the — Chantal Goupil industry long enough to know how rare it is to get a lucky break,” says Cobo, who had to endure two months of screen tests before being confi rmed for his movie. “It meant two months of living on the edge of my seat,” says the actress with a grin, but she has no complaints. “To have worked with Almodóvar is the ultimate dream of any actress, and now I will have to devise another,” she says, musing that a role opposite Robert De Niro could possibly do the trick. “But I’d probably be paralyzed with fear.” Of course, her chance to walk the red carpets of Cannes meant a caboodle of couturiers offered her gowns throughout the festival. But the 21-year-old star opted for a dress by Spanish designer Carmen March. “Obviously, I didn’t want to turn up in jeans and a T-shirt, but to be frank, I really don’t care that much for fashion,” admits Cobo, adding that nevertheless, it meant a lot for her to be supporting a young designer. And now that the festival is over, the actress is focusing on English lessons and savoring her time spent on the “Volver” set. “I’d mentioned to one of the crew that I’d love to keep one of the clapper boards,” says Cobo, recalling how on the last day of shooting Almovódar whipped one out from behind his back and presented it to her. “It now has pride of place in my bedroom,” she adds of the board, etched with the time, date and title of the movie’s fi nal scene. A room at — Katya Foreman the Hotel Amour.

PARIS — The capital of foie gras is suddenly on a sushi roll with a rash of The trendy Japanese eateries. interior At Mood, a 10,000-square-foot spot located on the Champs-Elysées of Kaï. designed by Didier Gomez, the signature dishes are the Mood soup with prawns, vermicelli noodles, coconut milk and ginger and a Hong Kong-style lacquered pork served with mango. Various assortments of sushi are also available. The 290-seat, three-level restaurant is contemporary with an Asian touch — and boasts a lounge where night owls can sip cocktails until 4 a.m. Over at Wa in the fi rst arrondissement, the sushi bar is the highlight. Sushi and sashimi are made there with eel, sea urchin, sea bass or mackerel and a separate kitchen prepares tasty Franco-Japanese dishes like fried foie gras

A center table at Mood.

with sushi rice and teriyaki sauce or duck breast with mango sauce. Decorator Jean-Marie Noblet chose natural light and sheer curtains for daytime; for evenings, he went for Pop Art lighting. A few blocks away, a tiny and elegant new Japanese eatery, Kaï, is a magnet for the fashion fl ock — Nicolas Ghesquière and Pierre Bergé are regulars — as well as Japanese gourmets. For his 22-seat restaurant, owner Mister Kitada opted for simplicity and refi nement. The fl avorful, delicate food has a European touch, in the chawanmushi Kaï style with steamed foie gras or the grilled sea bass with sesame sauce. One area remains French, though: Desserts are by pastry chef extraordinaire Pierre Hermé. — C.G.

Mood: 114 Avenue des Champs-Elysées; tel: 331-42-89-98-89 Wa: 8 Rue Coquillière; tel: 331-40-26-40-01

Soy AnythingSoy Kaï: 18 Rue du Louvre; tel: 331-40-15-01-99 KAÏ RESTAURANT PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; MOOD BY XAVIER BEJOT; COBO BY JEAN BAPTISTE LACROIX/WIREIMAGE COBO BY BEJOT; XAVIER DOMINIQUE MAITRE; MOOD BY PHOTO BY KAÏ RESTAURANT 10 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Eileen West Heads Into Accessories NEW YORK — Designer Eileen West has signed her first but the accessories line is expected to generate sales of licensing agreement for accessories with Tandy Brands Eileen West $5 million to $6 million the fi rst year, according to indus- Accessories. try estimates. The collection of women’s belts, small leather goods Jane Batts, president of the women’s division at Tandy and handbags will be distributed to better department Brands, said the Eileen West accessories would be posi- stores for fall 2007. tioned as a “better-designer collection” and the products West, who is known for her romantic-looking sleep- will be merchandised in specialty packaging. Suggested wear, robes and dresses, also creates hundreds of original retail for handbags will average $200, and belts and other textile designs each year. smaller goods such as wallets and clutches will sell for “We are still at the talking stages right now, but we are $48 to $60. envisioning linings in the leather goods and handbags “We will be doing classic leather goods in classic col- that feature the EW logo,” said West, who is co-founder ors, as well as trend-driven, seasonal fashion colors,” and president of the San Francisco-based company bear- Batts said. “We want to keep the line really clean and ing her name. “I am known for details like little trims and focus on quality.” tucking, romantic looks such as ribbon treatments through West said there will be a “little preview in January” for lace, and we plan to do embossed logos on leather, lots of retailers and the media that will include a launch party. braiding, and beading on evening bags. We’ll also do some A location has not been determined. leather and textile fabrics combinations, which will be West licenses sleepwear and robes to The Komar Co., fun.” and bras and panties to The Chelsea Design Group. Her J.S.B. Jenkins, president and chief executive offi cer limited-edition dresses are produced in-house, but West of Tandy Brands, based in Arlington, Tex., said, “I am said she is exploring licensing opportunities for dresses, personally very impressed with Eileen and certainly the and bed and bath products. success with her brand. I think her involvement, coming Tandy Brands produces women’s accessories under with the right look to our design people, will be very well the licensed Docker’s, Levi’s and Totes names, as well as interpreted, fresh and distinctive.” two proprietary labels, Rolf ’s and Princess Gardner.

A fi rst-year wholesale sales fi gure was not available, MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY — Karyn Monget Boutique Show: Tight and Targeted LOS ANGELES — The Boutique Lingerie trade show in showrooms that you otherwise wouldn’t go into, so sponsored by designer Samantha Chang, in its second in- having them all in one area makes it easier on us.” stallment at the Gerry Building here, proved to be a small Among the items she ordered were short and but potent crowd-pleaser in the late fall-holiday market. fl irty separates from Underglam, Aubade and Elle Arobatherapy, Aubade, Fleur’t, Hipster Music, Huit, Macpherson, citing a trend toward mix-and-match Lavit, Panache Lingerie, Chang and Underglam exhib- items instead of matching peignoir sets. ited novelty camisoles and boy-short sets, and assort- “Samantha has an eye for a good assortment from ments of lacy looks that mimicked the softer, lighter each buyer,” said Victoria Roberts of Zovo Lingerie statement of the market’s sportswear offerings. in Seattle. “You have your appointments in the show- “I believe in creating a more exclusive environment rooms, and you go to Samantha’s show for discovery,” for intimates buyers to focus on lines without being “Ever since we’ve shown with Samantha, we’ve disturbed,” Chang said. “At the same time, I can give opened accounts with stores we’ve been trying to get The Boutique Lingerie them more attention because there are no distractions, in for months,” said Lavit designer Vivian Baril. “It’s fair was a small but so it works both ways.” a pretty and professional atmosphere, and she’s very potent crowd pleaser. Although the June market is one of the smallest in picky about whom she chooses.” Los Angeles, Chang estimated about 50 or 60 buyers Noah Walsh, a sales representative for Los Angeles- think the L.A. market is starting to diversify and people made their way to the show. based Underglam, a newcomer to the show, was im- are starting to realize L.A. is more of a fashion scene. “It’s mostly a regional market, but I still felt it was pressed with the caliber of buyers. And it’s about time somebody brought a nice lingerie important to have a small show,” she said. “I met with probably about 20 buyers from California, show to L.A. Before, buyers had to run around to differ- Judy Eisen, buyer for Cheeks boutique in Aspen, Seattle, Arizona and Jackson Hole [Wyo.],” Walsh said. ent buildings, and now it’s under one roof.” Colo., said: “A lot of the lines in the show used to be “It was a fantastic turnout, especially for a June show. I — Marcy Medina PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY

Trapeze artists sported Maidenform’s INTIMATE NOTES new Lite Bra. Left: An ad visual. FLYING TRAPEZE: Maidenform Inc. came up with a novel marketing strategy to promote the launch of its new Lite Bra Collection — an exercise on the trapeze for the media to experience the “weightlessness of Maidenform’s newest introduction,” said a spokesman. The Maidenform brand transformed the Trapeze School of New York into a forest oasis on May 27, taking cues from its new fl ora and fauna-inspired ad campaign with a green forest setting and point-of-sale visuals. More than 20 fashion magazine editors were treated to a performance by trapeze artists wearing new super-light bras. “Eighteen of the editors who attended the preview event tried their hands on the trapeze as well, and they really got into it,” said the spokesman.

SOLOMON REMEMBRANCE: More than 30 members of the Intimate Apparel Square Club and friends gathered last month to share memories of the late Sheila Solomon, an IASC member and a 40-year veteran of the innerwear industry. She was described as a “tremendous” fund-raiser and supporter of the Rusk Institute’s Pediatric Rehabilitation Center at New York University Medical Center, a main charity supported by the IASC. The ceremony in the Play Garden at the Rusk Institute, which the IASC created with the help of Solomon, represented a “celebration for a special person and a special life,” said Rosa Chamides, a friend and former IASC president. A memorial bronze leaf will be placed in Solomon’s honor at the Rusk Institute, with the engraving: “To celebrate the life of Sheila Solomon.” The IASC also presented the Rusk Institute with a donation of $335,000 toward the new Rusk Pediatric Rehabilitation Wing. The donation was made from proceeds of the organization’s 50th anniversary celebration and the annual HUG Award dinner in November, which honored Dorrit Bern, chairman, president and chief executive offi cer of Charming Shoppes. The IASC has donated $3.5 million to the Rusk Institute for various projects, including a state-of-the-art playground, music and art programs, and social activities. Fashion Uncovered PHOTO BY DONNA DEMARI WWDIntimates Section II: July 31 Close: June 26

WWDIntimates is the powerful, market-timed magazine reaching retail decision-makers across all channels of distribution. Dedicated to the hottest trends in bras, panties, shapewear, daywear, sleepwear, loungewear, at-homewear and legwear for the upcoming season, WWDIntimates offers a unique opportunity to pre-sell your line during crucial market weeks.

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Accessories Report Gold Doesn’t Cool Unde

By Sophia Chabbott Irene Judith Neuwirth Ripka LAS VEGAS — Gold is hot, but price volatility doesn’t seem to have stymied the desire for it. Many fi ne jewelers have raised prices by as $1,500 is now $2,200. But much as 20 percent because of the fl uctuat- we are projecting a strong ing cost of gold, which hit $725 an ounce season. It’s really about cre- in May and fell to $574 on Friday. Still, ating the buzz and having the buoyed by consumer demand, retailers right product mix.” are buying, albeit cautiously, for their Although many retailers are holiday inventories. keen to fi nd new design talent, At the Couture Jewellery Collection aggressively marketed brand names Mizuki & Conference, Luxury by JCK, JCK such as John Hardy, David Yurman, and Signature Salons shows here this Charriol and Judith Ripka are many month, fi ne jewelry manufacturers and stores’ bread and butter. And private retailers said they were going forward equity fi rms are taking note. with gold-intensive designs. The shows “We are getting quite a few inqui- offered many artisanal and distinctive ries from private equity fi rms about some looks. of the jewelry companies,’’ said Mitch “We are conscious of the higher price Kates, associate director of strategic ser- of gold and just continue to buy excit- vices for Kurt Salmon Associates, a retail ing, beautiful pieces,” said Stephanie Lee, consultancy. “It is an area of increasing buyer for fi ne jewelry and watches at Barneys interest.” New York, who invested in pendant necklaces. There are a few deals in the works, said com- “Clients continue to make major personal purchas- pany representatives, who spoke on condition of es. There is a tremendous interest in jewelry right now. anonymity and didn’t reveal details. We foresee a strong holiday.” Sales of gold jewelry hit a six-year high in the Most vendors and retailers projected a 5 to 10 percent gain in sales over last holi- U.S. in 2005, increasing 4.4 percent, compared with day, compared with recent years in which they experienced high double-digit growth. a 4 percent gain in 2004, according to fi gures compiled Some said the self-purchasing customer, who spends from $500 to $4,000 on a by GfK Audits & Surveys and released by the World Gold piece of jewelry and was considered a factor in the success of fi ne jewelry in Council in May. It was the 15th consecutive year of gold recent years, will be affected most by the price increases. jewelry sales increases. Still, many retailers said when gold “I don’t know if we can continue to have the double-digit increases of the goes up and is in the news, their customers want more because past,” said Larry W. Pelzel, vice president of corporate precious jewelry for they perceive it to be more precious than ever. Neiman Marcus, who bought heavily into pearls and opera-length necklaces. “Even though it’s softened [in price] a bit, gold is a buzz- “Precious metals are going through the roof. An item that last year [might have been] ing category right now,” said Harvey Rovinsky, president of Bernie Robbins Fine Jewelry, which has nine stores in Philadelphia and New Jersey. Rovinksy even bought into 24-karat gold for the fi rst time, from the likes of Gurhan and Yossi Harari, which both specialize in pure gold. “We don’t fi nd the increase in gold as a negative,” Rovinsky said. “There’s a perceived value to it.” Jim Rosenheim, chief executive offi cer of the Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., agreed: “There is room for high-karat gold jewelry.” Darrell Ross, president and ceo of the Cranston, R.I.- based Ross-Simons, which has 15 stores and a large cat- alogue business, has been trying to absorb price rises since last year and not pass them along to consumers. He remains optimistic about holiday sales. “We didn’t react as gold went to $700, now it’s at $600,” Ross said. “The ultimate price won’t be as steep as the volatility indicated in April and May. Things are settling down.” David Yurman has increased prices of some of its jewelry on a piece-by-piece basis. “I feel positive right now,” said David Yurman, de- signer and chairman of the fi rm. “Seven years ago, [jewelry] was less important. Even if clothing becomes less important, this is the time for accessories,” he said, adding that when clothing gets more minimal, people want to add a bit of sparkle. Key trends at the shows included rich, colored stones such as garnet, onyx and green tourmaline, as well as gray Tahitian pearls, complementing the moody hues shown in fall ready-to-wear. There was also a movement away from bling to more understated looks. Although pavé diamond accents were incorporated in hoop earrings, cocktail rings and other categories, and rose-cut diamonds were popular, the overall use of diamonds waned. Sautoir necklaces with large pendants were wide- spread, like those from David Yurman’s silver and diamond Tapestry collection and Kwiat’s white gold version interspersed with fobs of onyx and pavé dia- monds. Pieces with gold openwork were also domi- nant, as shown by Calgaro’s blackened silver and gold multistrand necklaces and bracelets, and at Diamonds by Erickson Beamon, whose diamond-stud- ded collars and shoulder duster earrings had a tattoo-like feel. Scott Colee layered a rutilated quartz cabochon over onyx in necklaces, earrings and rings that were set in yellow gold, to complement the dark and heavy clothes for fall. John Hardy offered sculpted silver pieces with hand-wrought fi li- gree on the backs depicting scenes from Bali, where the fi rm is based. Ray Griffi ths showed a bracelet of faceted rock crystals WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 13 WWD.COM r Price Pressure

mounted in nets of yellow gold, while Stephen Dweck offered an oversized chain-link bronze bracelet with tiny fl owers and other patterns. Other key trends included: ● The use of earth-toned stones. Madeira citrine, smoky topaz and ginger quartz gave subtle sparkle to Judith Ripka’s Ambrosia bracelet set in yellow gold, while brown diamonds gave subtle shine to Annie Fensterstock signature paisley-print- ed gold pendant, Damiani’s architectural rings and Talisman Unlimited’s hoop ear- rings. Faraone Mennella also used brown moonstones in its new men’s line. ● Pearls in untraditional settings. Mizuki strung a black Tahitian pearl pendant on a black silk cord with black diamond briolettes hanging off the pearl. S. Aufrichtig David Yurman fastened a pastel-colored strand of cultured pearls with a large gold closure, meant to look like a lace swatch. Robert Wan strung Tahitians on a multistrand black muslin collar, while Slane & Slane offered a multistrand freshwater pearl Y necklace, fi nished with a gold tassel with a yellow sapphire fringe. ● Animated characters getting the fi ne treatment. Hello Kitty by Kimora Lee Simmons made its wholesale debut, as it had been exclusive to Neiman Marcus since Andrea its inception last year. There was Tennis Kitty, Enamel Kitty and even a pink diamond Lieberman version of the famed Sanrio cat offered at Signature Salons. Nicky Hilton made an for Mouawad. appearance at Tao to launch Tweety Fine Jewelry, produced by D’Annunzio Group International. She was dressed in a requisite canary yellow dress. “It’s a Baby Boomer phenomenon,” said Doron Basha, president of Meyers USA, distribu- tor of Disney Jewelry, which launches at Bergdorf Goodman this month. “They were raised with these characters. We all look back to try to fi nd our youth.” Childhood memories are getting costly as Mickey Mouse, Bambi, Thumper and Tinkerbell jew- elry, with gold, diamonds and sapphires, wholesales from $250 to $10,000. Diamond ● Enamel details. Roberto Coin, known for its use of enamel, upped the ante by applying the in the treatment to pansy- and rose-shaped earrings and necklaces in bright pinks and reds. Soho Rough. placed gold leaf and gold dust in its signature black, red or white enamel bangles, while Julie Baker inlaid enamel fl owers in her 22-karat gold rings and hanging earrings. Ocie, a division of jewelry fi rm OGI Ltd., offered sterling silver minaudières covered in lavender, white, red and other colored enamels and fi nished with a pavé diamond and silver closure. ● Brooches, pendants and earrings in the shapes of animals. Siegelson offered an antique owl brooch in yellow gold with colored stones. Carlo Luca della Quercia Gioiellieri showed chunky enam- el cuffs in the shape of scaly serpents. Janet Mavec offered yellow-gold dove charms on necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Pade by Pade Vavra showed bracelets with a jew- eled frog set atop. ● Colored diamonds. Mimi So showed a white and colored diamond cuff bracelet, set to retail at $1 million. Christian Tse of- fered large pink, yellow and fancy blue dia- mond necklaces, earrings and rings. Manak Couture, a company that specialized in loose, colored diamonds, is pushing its own jewelry collection with plenty of the stones. Overall, retailers were busy fi lling their Mimi So orders, despite price increases, in hopes of a successful holiday season. “We reacted to the price increases by gasping, but we went in for the plunge,” said Lisa Moskowitz of J.L. Rocks, which has two stores in Connecticut. Moskowitz’s partner, Jamie Camche, added: “People notice it on small items, not on larger items, but it hasn’t stopped us from purchasing. This has been our biggest buy ever. We THOMAS YURMAN NECKLACEIANNACCONE BY had a great third quarter. When we go to the show with optimism and money in the Gurhan John Hardy bank, we’re aggressive.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 WWD.COM Calvin Klein’s New-Look Advertising for Fall By Marc Karimzadeh trend in luxury brand advertisements. “When everybody else is focused NEW YORK — Fall advertising is taking a stark on product-specifi c advertising — turn at Calvin Klein. the bag, the eyewear — in a strong For the fall Calvin Klein Collection campaign, way, and advertising has become the cinematic black-and-white images of models about product placement, we tried Natalia Vodianova and Bev Moore evoke the urban to do a feel that was more poetic, modernism associated with Thirties photography. more reflective, a little bit more The fashion house is making a clear departure sexual in a way,” Baron said. from previous seasons. For the fi rst time, Francisco There had been speculation that Costa, creative director of Calvin Klein Collection Kate Moss, who was tapped for the women’s, has had a signifi cant infl uence on the Calvin Klein Jeans campaign, would message. The images were shot by of-the-moment also return to the Collection ads, es- photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, new- pecially since Vodianova gave birth comers to Calvin. only two weeks before the fall shoot. Costa worked directly with Calvin Klein Inc.’s “We had always planned on using in-house ad agency CRK Advertising and Fabien Natalia,” Costa said. Baron, creative director of the campaign, to create “Kate is much more urban in a the concepts for the set and the styling. The addi- way,” he said. “With Kate, you see tional infl uence in the campaign was a natural step that street-wise mentality. Also, for Costa, who was named Womenswear Designer Calvin as a house, and him as a de- of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of Three ads from Calvin Klein Inc., signer, always moved on. It was al- America this month. including the stark black-and- ways about the next thing. I think “When you design a collection, you want to put forth white Collection image seen here. to go back to Collection with Kate an image that relates to it,” Costa said. “I wasn’t part of would be a mistake, because she is the past [campaigns], but it’s naturally how it should go. already in fi ve collection campaigns,” All the inspiration of the pictures comes from when we Caption added Costa, noting it’s a different started [the collection].” go here case with Calvin Klein Jeans. Costa cited the work of Man Ray and Lee Miller as for this For the better-priced Calvin his inspirations for the campaign, which shows the two Caption go Klein line, licensed to Kellwood models dramatically posing like movie stars from anoth- here for Co., the campaign was shot by Mikael Jansson on lo- er era against or on top of angular white props that have this cation in Los Angeles, featuring models Doutzen and been cropped in each photo. Gabriel Aubry in a street setting, with grainier images The campaign was photographed at Pier 59 Studios giving the ads a more cinematic feel. The bridge-tier here. It was styled by Karl Templer, with Bill Doig serv- ck Calvin Klein ads, meanwhile, were shot by Patrick ing as the set designer. Demarchelier at Pier 59 Studios. They have a multi- The previous three Collection campaigns were ple casting theme, with models including Vodianova, photographed by Steven Meisel, with spring featuring Freja Beja, Anna Mayria and Danny Beauchamp, in Vodianova in a sunny setting. poses reminiscent of the ground-breaking ck One ads “There is more of a class separation,” Costa said of from the nineties. the fall campaign. “I am not saying it’s elitist, but there is The Collection ads will break in August books and more a sense of control. With Mert and Marcus, the result will run through October. Six Calvin Klein Collection was a feel of distinction, of making it really luxurious.” portfolios featuring four- to eight-page spreads will Baron, who has contributed to many Calvin Klein im- appear in September issues of Vogue, W, Harper’s ages for the past 12 years, said he felt a sense of change Bazaar, Elle and Interview, as well as Vogue Japan. at Calvin Klein, which steered the creative decisions. Company executives declined to disclose the cost of “The fi rst thing we did was to look at what Francisco the campaign or the ad spend. CKI’s annual advertis- had done, and the feeling, which was very 1930s,” Baron ing and marketing spend is estimated to be more than said. “We wanted to do something graphic and more spa- $200 million. Overall, CKI’s number of U.S. ad pages cious. The cropping and the way it was shot was more pho- will increase by 19 percent compared with last fall. tographic. We wanted to do something more artistic, more Costa, who did not consult Calvin Klein himself on graphic, spacious, and with more precision that has a remi- the ads, indicated the importance of redefi ning what the niscence of something from the Thirties and Forties — and brand stands for. “We wanted to create more prestige, very elegant, very sophisticated, very upscale, very sexy.” with less product to make it more artistic,” Costa said. Baron also deliberately wanted to be different from the “We have to create what it stands for, which is luxury.”

Pringle’s sexy “sweater girl,” Heidi Klum fl ashing a lot ATOOSA’S ALTAR: of skin — and some cashmere — and models gathered Flattery will only Pringle’s Fresh Face around a campfi re against a natural landscape. MEMO PAD get you so far “We’re focusing on building a history around the in the magazine By Samantha Conti individual, rather than the product,” said Baron, who business. The real strivers have moved on to out-and-out is working with Pringle for the fi rst time. “We wanted idol worship — and it may be working. LONDON — Pringle is turning over a new leaf with an to show the Pringle woman as very feminine, free and Consider the case of Brianne Burrowes, a contestant edgy ad campaign — and there’s nary a baby deer or easygoing — one the customers could relate to. on the MTV reality series “Miss Seventeen.” The show campfire in sight. “And with regard to the men’s campaign, we wanted featured 17 college-age girls vying for a grand prize Pringle’s new creative director, Clare Waight to create a very masculine, but gentlemanly image. I consisting of a scholarship, an appearance on Seventeen’s Keller, is making a break from the think there’s something clean, beau- cover and, perhaps most important, a summer internship dreamy Scottish mood of past cam- tiful and elegant about these pic- at the magazine. To say that Burrowes failed to win the paigns to focus on the power of the tures, and I think it’s a good point of competition is an understatement; in fact, she quit the individual. departure for Clare.” contest three episodes in, tearfully declaring, “I’ll just go The black-and-white campaign, Baron has also designed a new ahead and get an internship on my own....I don’t want to shot by David Sims, stars mod- logo for the company, which has be affi liated with a house of liars.” els Freja Beha Erichsen and Tom been hand-drawn in black and white Prophetic words, as Burrowes is now interning at Guinness-Taylor. Keller worked along- and still says Pringle of Scotland. Seventeen, where she’ll soon be joined by the show’s side Fabien Baron on the concept. It’s more sleek than the former one, winner (and Burrowes’ on-air rival), Jennifer Steele, “We were inspired by David however, and incorporates the com- who’s been busy traveling the country giving speeches Bailey’s photos from the late pany’s two royal warrants. on behalf of the Offi ce of National Drug Control Sixties and early Seventies. We The women’s campaign will Policy. (Steele’s is a paid internship, while Burrowes is loved the individual, very British break in the September issues of receiving academic credit.) spirit of those photos,” said Keller, magazines including American, What quality did Burrowes display the other runners- who joined Pringle last year. This French, British and Russian Vogue, up didn’t? Some wonder if it wasn’t the abundant, is the fi rst ad campaign she’s over- Vanity Fair and W, WWD’s sister er, appreciation she showed for editor in chief Atoosa seen for the company. publication. Pringle has taken dou- Rubenstein. A journalism major whose stated career goal “It’s a departure from past cam- ble-page spreads in the magazines. is to be editor in chief of her own magazine, Burrowes paigns, and it was important for The men’s component will break declared on the fi rst episode, “Atoosa is, like, who I want me to make that distinction. My in the July issue of L’Uomo Vogue to be.” Another contestant added, “For Brianne, meeting point of view is radically different Pringle’s new ad for fall. and will appear in the International Atoosa was like meeting Jesus” — a comment that was from past ones at Pringle. I want Herald Tribune later this month. picked up on various blogs and featured in the show’s to make the individuals the focus. A Pringle spokeswoman said the promotional clip. Both models look very pulled-together, but there’s a ad budget has “increased substantially” compared But Rubenstein, noting she does not personally certain sense of rebellion underneath the surface, with seasons past, although she declined to reveal handle the hiring of interns, said it was Burrowes’ something a little bit dangerous, a sense of walking any fi gures. She said this season the company is also “enthusiasm for magazines” that clinched her the job. on the edge,” Keller added. branching into new markets, advertising in countries “It’s a great opportunity for Brianne, but certainly a Baron said it was a priority to make a break from such as Greece, France, Belgium and Russia, as well different experience from what Jen is getting,” she said. past campaigns, which have starred Sophie Dahl as as Scandinavia. No doubt they’re both ever so grateful. — Jeff Bercovici PHOTO BY DAVID SIMS DAVID PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 15 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 Retailers 74.10 44.17 Abercrombie Abercrombie & Fitch& Fitch 14.3 66246 57.14 0.61 35.46 18.05 Aéropostale Aeropostale 17.7 81620 26.53 0.40 34.82 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 16.5 104951 33.02 0.78 40.57 23.05 Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 27.7 56548 39.84 0.22 30.97 13.05 Bebe Bebe 19.0 33538 15.23 -0.21 S&P 500 2.26 0.68 BlueflyBluefly - 12399 1.05 0.07 34.14 15.55 Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 19.5 21588 22.70 -1.46 20.65 13.71 Caché Cache 20.0 8189 16.92 -0.34 24.83 18.10 Cato Cato 15.1 15790 22.92 0.46 23.41 11.90 Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 87.9 17247 19.78 -0.55 15.18 9.02 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 13.6 53624 11.20 0.00 49.40 27.50 Chico’s Chico’s FAS FAS 27.0 96655 29.42 0.21 67.70 33.22 Children’s Children’s Place Place 24.2 35000 60.99 0.34 31.89 23.89 CVS CVS 19.5 265991 30.19 0.98 32.46 20.38 Deb Deb Shops Shops 15.5 1114 26.70 -1.85 31.46 18.91 Dillard’s Dillard’s 17.0 105325 30.73 1.73 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 20.85 14.15 Dollar Dollar General General 13.9 178323 14.54 -0.41 28.09 10.52 Dress Dress Barn Barn 16.6 58662 23.34 -0.65 47.86 28.87 eBay eBay 39.4 787505 30.28 -0.30 27.94 19.40 Family Family Dollar Dollar 20.8 65518 24.41 0.43 39.70 28.78 Federated Federated 13.0 252768 35.10 -0.22 27.62 18.74 Foot Foot Locker Locker 14.4 69606 24.12 0.16 22.19 15.90 Gap Gap 14.5 230042 17.60 -0.19 11.85 7.24 GottschalksGottschalks 29.6 568 7.41 -0.39 47.25 15.35 Guess Guess 27.8 28484 40.60 -2.77 1.79 0.50 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 78 0.64 -0.01 20.97 12.08 Hot Hot Topic Topic 34.9 62879 12.25 -1.18 67.88 44.16 J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 15.9 112757 65.57 1.25 58.90 42.78 Kohl’s Kohl’s 22.4 236665 57.50 3.04 28.48 18.81 Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.9 139855 25.80 -0.92 30.31 6.72 MothersMothers Work Work 131.5 6416 29.32 -0.37 24.28 10.01 New New York York & &Co. Co. 13.2 17909 10.32 -0.60 42.90 30.41 Nordstrom Nordstrom 17.1 126282 35.85 -0.49 WWD STOCK INDEX ENDS WEEK UP 0.9% 27.99 18.68 Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 12.2 69813 19.21 -0.66 43.49 32.16 Regis Regis 16.7 29682 35.81 1.07 NEW YORK — Another bumpy week of trading on Wall Street left stocks mixed by Friday. In retail, mergers and 17.48 8.95 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 26204 15.65 0.02 acquisitions rumblings stirred the sector. 31.04 22.34 Ross Ross Stores Stores 18.9 72088 27.30 0.20 As a result, the WWD Composite Stock Index fi nished the week up 0.9 percent to 1,098.98 from 1,089.15, 24.64 15.04 Saks Saks 25.6 93561 15.83 0.21 while the S&P 500 shed 0.06 percent to 1,251.54 from 1,252.30. 167.95 111.64 Sears Sears 23.4 121111 155.27 -8.35 Infl ation worries continued to wear down investors, who had fl ed the retail sector before returning later in the 34.44 23.68 Stage Stage Stores Stores 15.2 10998 32.01 0.18 24.60 14.00 Stein Stein Mart Mart 15.3 12872 14.53 -0.55 week to snatch up bargains and take some profi ts during a two-day rally that bolstered the Dow Jones Industrial 19.10 13.01 Syms Syms 78.4 1481 17.66 -0.18 Average by over 300 points. An improved U.S. trade defi cit was one of the economic factors that inspired some 35.34 19.04 Talbots Talbots 12.4 31620 19.90 -0.10 investors to buy. 60.00 47.26 Target Target 17.6 250573 49.22 0.81 On the retail and fashion front, rumblings last week in WWD that a possible deal was brewing between J.C. 26.28 19.95 TJX TJX Cos. 14.7 146124 22.79 -0.22 Penney and Polo Ralph Lauren sent shares of Polo up 4.2 percent Friday to $57 from the prior day’s close. For the 20.78 5.87 United United Retail Retail Group Group 7.1 4156 16.14 0.31 33.77 17.32 Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 24.0 118242 17.54 -0.46 week, the stock jumped 3.2 percent. 50.87 42.31 Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 17.8 645022 48.31 1.18 On Thursday, sources indicated that a “dream” prospect of an exclusive line by Polo for the moderate depart- 7.04 3.89 WetWet Seal Seal - 37150 4.84 0.33 ment store retailer could be a boon to the bottom lines of both public companies, and could happen sometime 7.30 3.00 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather 16.2 10737 3.85 -0.01 in 2007. The deal could involve a wide range of products in men’s, women’s, children’s and home, and could be 34.42 21.01 Zale Zale 14.4 68198 24.60 0.73 structured similarly to Polo’s exclusive agreement with Kohl’s under the Chaps label. Vendors 50.62 41.70 Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 18.7 39061 46.68 -0.10 On Friday, investors were reminded that Penney’s chairman and chief executive offi cer, Myron E. “Mike” 38.36 24.33 Avon Avon 19.0 150216 29.93 -1.10 Ullman 3rd, was on Polo’s board and worked with president Roger Farah at Macy’s in the early Nineties. Ullman is 31.58 17.58 Benetton Benetton 37.8 496 28.66 -0.03 also well acquainted with the luxury world, having previously worked at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. 43.23 31.57 Cherokee Cherokee 18.8 2379 38.33 0.92 Investors are also keeping a close eye on Warnaco Group Inc., which was one of the top gainers in the WWD 37.40 27.62 Coach Coach 22.7 240561 29.81 1.14 Composite Stock Index for the week. Shares of the supplier fi nished the week up 8.1 percent following a report in 57.65 41.00 Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.6 12521 45.71 -1.04 25.31 17.72 Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 17.3 12513 18.00 -0.92 these pages that Phillips-Van Heusen may have Warnaco in its sights as an acquisition target, according to fi nancial 42.01 29.98 Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 24.9 46692 38.35 -0.57 sources outside the company. 25.08 14.96 Fossil Fossil 20.1 38007 17.99 -0.38 “Acquisitions are a key part of our growth. We are going to end this fi scal year with over $400 million in cash, 12.82 5.23 G-IIIG-III 25.8 1381 8.95 0.75 so we are looking for appropriate growth vehicles,” said PVH ceo Emanuel Chirico following the company’s annual 26.35 15.95 Hampshire Hampshire Group Group 11.7 169 17.30 -0.30 meeting Tuesday in New York. 38.85 31.19 IFF IFF 16.9 21344 34.76 -0.10 21.80 14.51 Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 22.1 3604 16.44 -1.06 Sources said there are no indications a deal is in the works, but fi nancial sources have been discussing how 36.10 26.47 Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 17.7 51913 31.85 -1.05 the two fi rms would be an “ideal combination.” 34.57 21.83 Kellwood Kellwood 70.8 31496 28.27 -1.25 — WWD Staff 35.29 22.80 Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 15.8 7907 23.32 -0.03 42.79 33.40 Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 13.6 31782 37.49 -0.26 8.79 4.13 MossimoMossimo 68.9 1089 7.68 0.02 WWDStock Market Index 24.98 16.49 Movado Movado 21.0 17334 23.31 1.86 Weekly % Changes Ending June 16 91.54 76.53 Nike Nike 15.4 73771 83.15 2.02 57.58 37.84 Oxford Oxford 11.2 9014 38.89 -1.86 24.25 10.04 Perfumania Perfumania 3.1 931 14.40 -2.10 Composite Retailers Vendors Gainers Decliners 26.48 18.50 Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 11.5 4925 23.16 -1.75 1098.98 1090.87 1111.68 41.50 26.75 Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 13.6 48665 35.20 -0.45 62.87 41.88 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 18.5 49455 57.00 1.78 Close Change Close Change 16.97 10.63 Quiksilver Quiksilver 18.4 59676 12.39 -0.56 G-III 8.95 9.15 Perfumania 14.40 -12.73 4.29 1.13 RevlonRevlon - 279129 1.38 -0.12 21.84 12.31 Russell Russell 24.1 22168 18.04 -0.09 Movado 23.31 8.67 Tarrant 1.84 -11.11 37.17 10.60 Steve Steve Madden Madden 21.1 26841 28.99 0.84 9.83 11.39 0.80 Warnaco 19.56 8.07 Hot Topic 12.25 -8.79 4.22 0.86 TarrantTarrant 31.3 6554 1.84 -0.23 Wet Seal 4.84 7.32 Revlon 1.38 -8.00 24.36 11.00 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 17.2 19904 16.80 -1.10 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices 66.60 50.44 VF VF Corp. Corp. 13.4 35208 65.52 0.54 of Dec. 31, 2002. Bluefly 1.05 7.14 Perry Ellis 23.16 -7.03 28.22 17.09 Warnaco Warnaco 22.8 47416 19.56 1.46 16 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 WWD.COM Old England Makes Bigger Beauty Splash Fall and Holiday Styles PARIS — Old England has put a new face on its beauty depart- ment. The French department store, Lead Mix at Dallas FIG which specializes in traditional English apparel, recently un- By Rusty Williamson veiled an updated and larger cosmetics fl oor here. The beauty DALLAS — Fashion Industry Gallery courted buyers with a mix space at the fl agship, located on of immediate, fall and holiday styles. Boulevard des Capucines, now Showrooms spotlighted trendy items. They were: beaded T- occupies 1,076 square feet — an shirts, denim, more coordinated and cleaner ensembles such as area fi ve times larger than the jackets matched with skirts or dresses, and subtle embellishment, former space. The store’s total including leather and leopard jackets with metal ring details and fl oor space is 21,600 square feet. skirts with delicate strands of pearls, crystals or beads. Executives said a larger con- Colors ranged from browns, greens and a generally dark pal- cept was created to build on in- ette for summer and early fall to a more vibrant spectrum of creasing customer demand for brights for late fall and holiday, such as orange, pink, teal, red, beauty products, which spurred white and gold. a 20 percent spike in the cate- The three-day market that ended June 4 also included an gory’s sales in 2005 versus the appearance by contemporary designer Chan Luu. prior year. A look at Old England’s revamped beauty department. “Our traffi c was up 20 percent over last year, and June is no- “Old England is not just about toriously slow,” said Elyse Wasserman, acting director at FIG. cashmere jumpers,” said Olivier hosting workshops, private con- Among fi xtures at the store is Wasserman said FIG continues to grow and evolve, with ten- Mancini, retail director of the sultations and personal appear- Miller Harris, the London fra- tative plans to open another fl oor of showrooms in 2007. The ex- store, adding beauty represents ances by brand creators and grance fi rm founded by husband- pansion would be in the basement of the building FIG occupies about 8 percent of Old England’s perfumers last month. and-wife team Christophe Michel at 1807 Ross Avenue in the downtown Dallas Arts District. turnover. “I’ve got customers now The renovated space boasts a and Lyn Harris. The brand’s Allyson Siler, owner of the Launch showroom at FIG, said who come here just for toiletries mélange of antique-style wooden black metal counter displays its buyers were enthusiastic about casual, denim and embellished and fragrance and you see them 46-unit collection, which includes styles, and the new location and size of her showroom: She come straight to that section. I 17 fragrances, as well as limited- moved to a choice corner fi lled with natural light and now has don’t remember seeing that even edition scents, shower gels, body 2,000 square feet compared with 800 square feet. three years ago.” BEAUTY BEAT lotions and candles. To maintain momentum, the “It’s great [having enough Our traffi c was up 20 percent over store wants to pique customers’ shelving, traditional glass presen- space] to be able to represent the interest with brands from France tation boxes and modern metal brand,” said Michel. The brand has “last year, and June is notoriously slow. and the U.S., as well as the U.K. units, each adapted to the brands been present in Old England since ” “We want to bring new prod- they display, against a backdrop 2004 and now ranks as the third ucts to our clients,” said Patricia of high ceilings, white pillars and best-selling beauty brand there, — Elyse Wasserman, FIG Vors, manager of the store’s fra- a deep red fl oor. behind Penhaligons and Floris. grance division, referring to a Products offered range from Compagnie Financière Riche- “June is normally one of the slowest markets, but it turned new strategy to carry brands traditional brands such as Pen- mont SA, the Swiss luxury goods out to be the second-busiest ever for me,” Siler said. that are not exclusively English. haligons, which has been carried firm, sold Old England SA to Paula Pierce, owner of Willow’s Clothing in Sisters, Ore., New arrivals on the beauty by Old England since the Nineties, Tercade SA, a holding company was among the buyers shopping FIG for the fi rst time. Pierce fl oor this year include Parfums to more recent arrivals, includ- controlled by Olivier Goldberg, shopped for tops, sweaters, sexy camisoles, jackets and mother- Delrae, of San Francisco. ing French fragrance brand The for an undisclosed sum in March of-the-bride styles for her 30- to 50-year-old target customers. Another innovation will be Different Company and Kao-owned this year. “The timing of the FIG market was perfect, and the mer- in-store events. The store began prestige brand Molton Brown. — Ellen Groves chandise was right-on for my customers, Pierce said. “I’m glad I tried FIG, and I will be back for sure.” Among her buys were lingerie-style camisoles, tops and sweaters from Salomay; Western-style dresses with rope trim from Tribute, and lace or romantic crinkled mother-of-the- bride dresses and ensembles in pink, orange and teal from a Eau de Paris variety of vendors. NEW YORK — What does Paris Hilton smell like? Cindi Browning, owner of Chantal’s, a women’s contemporary Well, a little musky for starters, as fans dis- store in Colleyville, Tex., increased her budget at least 25 per- covered Friday afternoon during Hilton’s pro- cent, citing a successful spring season and also to stock her new motional appearance at Macy’s Herald Square ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY second location in Dallas, opening in July. The 2,000-square-foot to push her second fragrance, Just Me by Paris store will be near the intersection of Preston Road and Luther Hilton. But, judging from the crowd of over 300 Lane, close to the prosperous Park Cities neighborhood. lined up along the fl agship’s 34th Street block “I bought Poleci for fall, which was just amazing,” Browning for a chance to meet the hotel heiress, the day said. “I think my customers are going to love all the art-inspired was more ode than eau de Paris. painted fl oral skirts and tops. I also bought romantic and feminine “We bought the bottle so we could meet her,” immediate gypsy T-shirts from several designers, and holiday crys- said 23-year-old Michelle Fohme, with a limited- tal-embellished dresses and leather jackets from Sheri Bodell.” edition “Paris” pass wrapped around her neck. Amy Hooper Trott, owner of A. Hooper & Co., a contemporary Only those who purchased the $49 fragrance this store in Fort Worth, increased her budget 15 percent and shopped week at Macy’s received the pass, which scored for holiday dresses in neutral tones with classic styling from them a chance to share face time with the celebu- Trina Turk, black and cream solid silk skirts from Mint by Julie tante and get her autograph. Ten-year-old Michael Mintz, printed silk tops from Burning Torch and fl utter-sleeved Cresanti-Daknis came bearing a handcrafted “I tops that can be worn over skinny jeans from several designers. Love You, Paris” poster, not to mention a half- dozen long-stemmed roses. When asked about his crush, the boy grinned and exclaimed, “She’s hot.” But, alas, security was so tight, Hilton handlers Obituary prevented Cresanti-Daknis from delivering the goods in person. “They told me they were going to give them to her later,” he said Luca Ragonese, 37, afterward. Even those without the pass got a glimpse of the heir- Paris Hilton at Macy’s Herald Square’s Bally Design Director ess vamping it up for the cam- main-fl oor Beauty Arcade. Ten-year- eras in an Empire Diane von old Michael Cresanti-Daknis and his MILAN — Luca Ragonese, a design director at Bally, has died, the Furstenberg dress, Prada heels gifts for Paris. Switzerland-based company confi rmed on Friday. He was 37. and Paris Hilton handbag in The cause of death could not be learned. the middle of the main fl oor’s Ragonese died at his home in Milan this month. He had been Beauty Arcade. She brought the publicity,” says Will Zapata, 23, who came in in charge of Bally’s women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collec- space to a grinding halt, as shoppers gawked on the 7:30 a.m. train from Connecticut. “She’s tions and the men’s footwear collection. and sales associates careened over their coun- laughing all the way to the bank.” “It is with great sadness that Bally announces the passing ters with camera phones in hand. As for the fragrance itself — with numerous of Luca Ragonese. Luca was a much-loved and valued member To be sure, there were plenty of Paris afi cio- fl oral touches as well as warmer sandalwoods and of the Bally team, and he will be deeply missed,” the company nados in the house, but not all may have been vanilla — Hilton described it as “defi nitely more said in a statement Friday. there for the best of reasons. When asked why mature” than her last scent, 2004’s fruitier Paris Ragonese had been with Bally for three and a half years. she was a fan, Nicole Reveron, 21, matter-of- Hilton. Commenting on the new name, she said, Before joining Bally, he had been fashion coordinator at factly replied, “Paris is famous for doing noth- “I was wearing the original and someone asked, Ferragamo from 1999 to 2002, and had previously worked as ing.” Others had a decidedly more silver-lining ‘What are you wearing?’ And I was like, ‘Just me.’” John Galliano’s senior assistant in Paris. approach. “All that bad publicity [of hers] is still — Venessa Lau Survivors could not be identifi ed. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 17

Accessory Company Patterns/Samples/Production Looking to increase your sales? New, Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms exciting Cold Weather category looking Any Style - Full Service for a home. Please call 856-489-5548. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186

PATTERN/SAMPLES Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 For Space in Garment Center 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, High ceilings - Excellent Condition Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Design Hell..p! Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 212-880-0410 PRODUCTIONS Industry Specialization Training Search www.manhattanrealty.com All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. in Photoshop, Illustrator, Search For Space In Garment Center Showrooms & Lofts Broadway Garment Center Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Primavision & Digital Fabric Great ’New’ Office Space Avail OFFICE PLUS SHOWROOM PATTERNS, SAMPLES, www.midcomre.com AVAILABLE TO SHARE Printing Services Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Please Call Anna @ 212-869-8386 PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Call: 212-244-1435 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. 18 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006

JONES JEANSWEAR GROUP DENIM DESIGNERS Due to our tremendous growth and new initiatives we are seeking talented denim designers at all levels of experience from Associate to Sr. Designer. If you are a motivated, intelligent, creative team player with lots of energy and enthusiasm and would like to be part of a winning team please log on to www.jny.com and apply on line to the following job requisition numbers: Associate Designer: 1838 Designer: 1640 Designer: 1642 Designer: 1688 Sr. Designer: 1687 Sr. Designer: 1007

JEWELRY DESIGN ASSOCIATE DESIGNER/SPEC TEC DESIGNERS Career defining opportunity Seeking a dynamic individual who is detail orientated, organized with our Women’sluxury life- & able to succeed in a fast paced environment. Must have a style brand. Tommy Bahama good knowledge, love of jewelry & a keen sense of fashion. Women’s is taking an est’d Mechanical drawing & proficiency in Photoshop/ brand and reinventing the Illustrator/CAD a plus. line. We have a collabora- Qualified candidates please send resumes to: tive, entrepreneurial envi- [email protected] ronment and are looking for talented Designers wanting to grow a line and manage HEAD DESIGNER categories. Contemporary women’s wear company To create a sophisticated seeks Head Designer. Must be experi- line that dresses our woman enced in better/contemporary sports- from morning to night, can- wear market. Proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop with knowledge of pro- didates must have high taste duction who is able to run design standards and exp at the room. This position is for a MAJOR Designer level. 5+ yrs exp, CELEBRITY BRAND. Must be dynam- ic and have a high energy level with a ability to see and interpret keen ability to predict incoming trends trends, and self motivated. in designer and contemporary mar- kets. Must be aware of retail environ- You’ll be defining our ment and competition. success, and we will ensure Fax resume (212)239-2766 your rewards. Strong compensation and benefits HEAD TECHNICAL package. Take the first step, we’ll DESIGNER bring you the rest of the Experienced pro needed to be respon- sible for development samples, spec way. development, grading and pattern Send resume: corrections. Also will attend fittings, review outgoing samples as well as employment@ Designer tech packages. Working knowledge of tommybahama.com various garment constructions and EOE PDM experience a must. Need to be extremely organized with good computer, verbal and written skills. Email only to: Product Development SENIOR ACCESSORIES [email protected] Assistant DESIGNER Accessory co. seeks high energy prod dev asst willing to learn! Entry level Roxy is looking for a Sr. Accessories JEWELRY PRODUCTION position req good attitude, follow thru Designer. This position is located at skills, assist in a variety of day to day the corporate headquarters, in Hun- Large accessories company seeks tasks. Must be team player and have Account Recieveable 38-40K Assistant to Vice President experienced production manager must min 2-3 years posting payments etc. Design Assistant tington Beach, CA. Must have 5 plus working knowl of Photoshop and Illus- years experience in Accessories in the have at least 3 years experience trator. Fax resume and sal req: Strong experience on Excel. Mid-town Co. Aggressive, outgoing person needed to Ladies Accessories Co seeks assistant negotiating prices and consolidating Call 973. 564. 9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy assist VP of a financing, and sourcing designer. Must have leather accesso- Junior or Better market. Must have 212-947-7601 Attn: Sam Illustrator/CAD experience, graphic shipments, must work closely with company. Candidate will be required ries experience. Duties include all logistics and sales people on prices Admin Since 1967 to prescreen potential partners, maintain phases of design and development. background is a plus. Only experi- enced candidates please. and delivery. will communicate daily records, communicate with existing Candidate must multi-task and have with factories. monitor from initial Product Development W-I-N-S-T-O-N partners, and interact with support strong sketching skills. Salary Email resume to: [email protected] order to delivery including PP and Assistant personnel. Must have strong commu- commensurate with experience. Fax TOP samples. must have knowledge APPAREL STAFFING nication skills, be organized, a self for consideration DESIGN * SALES * MERCH resume with salary req: 516-364-1143 of carding labelling and packaging full Excellent Opportunity starter, great follow through skills, and benefits all resumes confidential North N.J. based men’s formal wear ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION be computer literate. Entry level position Designer to $100K. Current exp in JR or (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Designer Assoc $60-$70K Current exp Email: [email protected] apparel co. is looking for a product with possible future advancement. in infant and toddler girls. Exp in girls twill, canvas, woven bottoms. Must development assistant. Responsibilities E-mail resume to [email protected] hang w/ Unionbay, Roxy, A&F, Hol- include design order placement, tracking or fax to 646-674-1246 creative silhouettes. Midtown co. Call Allocator 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. lister, Am. Eagle, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Merchandiser to $200K. Current exp in deliveries, monitoring sales, daily overseas Fast paced, high energy, growing private label woven missy sportswear. communication & follow up. The ideal Designer to 120K Current exp in missy Strong product devel exp dealing w/ candidate will have 3-5 years apparel Women’s Apparel Co seeks: Designer Assoc. 70-80K Current exp in young daywear dresses. Must hang w/ Robie Min 3 yrs exp w/ entering inventory re- mens bottoms. Non denim or denim ok. Casu- Wal-Mart nec. Supervise designers, experience w/strong organization & Bee, Studio One, Danny & Nicole, Dorby present line. Call 973. 564. 9236 AGCY. communication skills w/a fashion & ceipts, update EDI transmitted orders, Asst. Designers/ al inspired non-urban Fashion vision req. Must Group, etc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY check inventory, allocate orders & hang w/ Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Ameri- color sense. E-mail & computer literacy a must. Oppty for growth. sent pick tickets to whse. Follow up on Graphic Artists can Eagle Out., etc. Call 973. 564. 9236 AGCY. Designer to $125-150K Min 5-7 yrs exp Please fax or email resume to: transportation containers. Exp with Mens/Boys Sportswear Co. looking for in Jr. blouses, Jr. skirts, Jr. dresses. Operations Manager F: 201-460-0343 Wal-Mart a plus. Successful candidate asst. & Graphic designers. Must have Designer - Juniors Must hang with Fang, Eyeshadow, E: [email protected] must have data entry, strong problem 2-3 yrs exp. knowledge of illustrator/ Speechless, My Michelle, Passport, etc. Well known MFG. seeks hands-on exec solving ability, ability to handle time photoshop, must be highly motivated, Immed position for hard working crea- Inception to completion. Travel India, China, to oversee all back office functions. sensitive duties . Knowledge of Excel organized and be able to work in a fast tive designer w/ min 2-3 yrs exp in im- Europe. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. Must have min. 3 yrs Operations exp, a & AS400 exp. Great oppty for growth, paced environment. port, cut & sew, knits, wovens & sweat- proven track record in a leadership competitive compensation & benefits. Pls email resume to: ers. Proficient in Excel, Photoshop. Fast paced, high energy, growing position for MFG. Prof attitude a must. Fax resume: 212-840-5601 Attn: BM [email protected] Fax resume Roger 212-768-7856 Women’s Apparel Co seeks: No travel req. Would interface w/all Color & Testing Mg depts.: production dom. and foreign, AMAZING JOBS DESIGNER sales, design, shipping, accounting. Immediate Openings Min 3 yrs exp managing a Color & Ind. would be resp for all Admin. Inc. Edi, Belt Merchandiser Major apparel company seeks experienced Testing area includes managing a data entry, cust serv, inventory ctrl, Designer for men’s/young men’s Latino team of 5. Maintain manuals, factory personnel Mgt. & implementation •Regional Sales Managers - 65-70K Fast growing leather Accessories Co. is sportswear brand for high-end urban review customer manuals, attend of strategies, policies and practices. All •Sales Assistants - 40K looking for an energetic Belt Designer specialty stores distribution. Experience customer summits as required / some appl. will be strictly confidential. •Technical Designer - 60K with substantial industry experience. with sample making necessary. travel, work w/suppliers, review styles Email resume with salary req. to: •Assistant Designer, Boys - 35-40K Responsibilities will include merchan- Illustrator/Photoshop required. to determine care instructions and [email protected] Product Development •Merchandise Trainer - 65K dising, sales support & product devel- Fax resume (212)239-2766 critical mfg concerns. •Planner - 48-55K opment. Qualified candidates need Assistant •Blue Cherry Support Analyst - 65K strong organizational skills as well as Testing Coordinator •Licensing Coordinator - 50K Designer / Merchandiser PATTERNMAKER Polo Leathergoods, a licensee for proficiency in MS Excel, MS Word & Up to 1 year exp working with Color Polo/Ralph Lauren and a division of Email: [email protected] Photoshop. We offer competitive salary, Est’d children’s importer seeks indiv and Testing Manager, review styles, Los Angeles based Loudermilk Inc. with min 5 yrs exp. to merchandise/ Kellwood, is seeking to fill an entry- subsidized health care & a 401(K) plan. determine potential testing issues, seeks PATTERN MAKER with 5-10 level position of Product Development FASHION ASSURANCE Please e-mail resume and salary design boys 4-20 sportswear line. Prof years high end women’s wear exp. P: 201.845.6050 receiving in-house and oversees Assistant. The essential responsibilities requirements to: [email protected] in Illust/Phshp. Manage entire design preliminary testing samples & reports, Must have knowledge in construction, F: 201.712.0426 process from concept to finished of this position include: issue design evaluate the results and send out specs and grading and be creative, for finished product and hardware to product in a fast paced environment. comments. Must possess strong detail oriented, and organized. Also E-mail resume [email protected] factories as necessary, revise sketches, Apparel Staffing, Ltd. CAD Artist to $85K. Current strong exp follow up and time management skills. need SEWER & HAND STITCH with order salesmen’s samples and create wide range skill in detail sewing, hand *DESIGN*TECH*MERCH* in U4IA. Complex designs of prints, Designer/Merchandiser Great opportunity for growth and style specs. repeats. Color matching. Surface design. beading, and handwork finishing. *PRODUCTION*GRAPHIC DSGN* excellent benefit package. Contact [email protected] Qualified candidates must have a www.apparelstaffing.com Women’s or Men’s OK. Midtown Co. Leading intimate apparel company is Fax resume: 212 827 3052 Attn: SS Bachelor’s Degree in Design or Ph: (212)302-0216 Fax: (212)302-1161 Call 973-564-9236 JARAL FASHION AGCY seeking an experienced Men’s/Boy’s Designer/Merchandiser for underwear Merchandising and two years experience Graphic Artist to 65K current exp in in Product Development or Merchan- and sleepwear. (Design to target demo- boys infant & toddler. Generic. Full A/R CLERK. DESIGN ASSISTANT graphic 22-35 years old in men’s dising. Must be able to work under and time perm position. Midtown Lg. PhatFarm, BabyPhat, Enyce, pressure with extensive deadlines. We 3 + yrs. exp. Major garment manuf. Boys import apparel co seeks person 6-14 in boy’s.) Must have proven ability Kidswear co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY to forecast color, body, fabrication Akademiks, AppleBottoms offer a competitive salary with an seeks individual exp’d w/ chargebacks, to do detail flat sketching, production and excellent benefits package. cash applic., EDI & PO violations, inv. packages, and approvals. Design skills packaging trends. Exp with technical Graphic Artist to $80K. Current exp in Wanted: Boy and Girls 0 - 20 - Designers & levels), Graphic Artists & Technical Apply today! Send resume with cover disputes etc. for immediate hire. a +. Strong CAD skills req’d. Excellent computer design knowledge required. Urban Menswear req’d. Photoshop/Illust. (all Fax resumes to (212)239-8825 attn: Jacqui oppty. Fax resume: 212-695-9721 Please e-mail resumes to: Well-known licensed. FT perm. position Designers. Photoshop & Illustrator a must. letter and salary requirements to: [email protected] EOE only. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Email: [email protected] [email protected]. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 19, 2006 19

A.D. Sutton & Son TECHNICAL DESIGNER SALES EXECUTIVE - ACCESSORIES Highly detailed & self-motivated individual to formulate all new born layette size Loro Piana, a leader in manufacturing & distribution of the finest specs & technical design (new born to size 24 mos). Must understand quality textiles, ready to wear & accessories has an quality, construction, handle all fit samples & be a team player. Excel. com- outstanding opportunity available. Candidates must have a munication & computer skills req’d.MANDATORY 3 yrs of exp in infants. min. of 5 yrs exp in a luxury wholesale environment. Resp. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR include assuming national responsibility for the Accessories Who is exper in all phases of prod. from devel. to final delivery. Must be able collection - developing, building & managing overall relationships to communicate well w/ overseas offices & factories, be organized, have w/ current & new accounts. Extensive travel req’d. Must be Word& Excel knowl. Resp inc issuing po’s , approving all lab dips, strike computer proficient & have strong analytical skills. off’s, construction & quality. MANDATORY 3 years exper in infants. Please submit resume with salary requirement to: SALES ASSISTANT Vice President, Human Resources Who is highly motivated & organized to report to sales exec. Must be an excel. Loro Piana communicator & proficient on the computer. Exp. in infants a + but not nec. 711 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10022 [email protected] Salary on all above based on experience. Please email resumes to Pam Sinishtaj at: [email protected]

PRODUCTION Senior Product Manager ASSISTANT ACTIVITY KITS/TOYS/STATIONARY Warren, NJ based major mass retail Fast paced womenswear manufacturer supplier of activity kits, toys & stationary seeks assistant with min 1 yr import in need of experienced, dedicated indi- exp. Will assist prod coordinator on all viduals for sourcing, product direction issues. Excel a must. Responsibilities & development. Ability to create & included tracking price tickets, manage detailed accurate records, communications with factories, filing, spreadsheets & time lines a must. setting up inspections, and bringing Must have creative ability to interpret samples to customers. Fax resume to Igor 212-382-0237 trends. Must be hands on & have good communication & organizational skills.Experience communicating with China a must. Design experience a plus. Minimal travel required. WebPDM Manager Production Assistant Excellent Salary & Benefits. Swimwear designer / manufacturer E-mail resume & salary history to: has a great oppty for a WebPDM Hand Embroidery House seeks Prod’n. [email protected] Asst. w/good organization skills to start Manager. Candidate must be exp’d immediately. Some fashion background with WebPDM and have the req’d. Italian/French language skills pref’d. ability to manage all aspects of the Email: [email protected] initial implementation, setup, training Spec Technician and maintenance. Responsibilities Junior Sportswear Company seeks a include creation of the WebPDM PRODUCTION spec technician for imports. Must hierarchy, grade rule database & construction detail database. You will have minimum of 5 years experience. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE COORDINATOR Knowledge of patternmaking, garment work closely with the merchandisers, Fast paced womenswear manufacturer production, product mgmt & design WHOLESALE JEWELRY COMPANY construction & fit mandatory. Must in NYC seeks to hire an account execu- seeks person with min 2 yrs import be organized & have good communi - group. Must have excellent communi- exp. Will communicate daily with cation skills. Only if you have hands tive. An ideal candidate should be well cation skills to interact with overseas rounded; strengths should be in areas factories to follow-up and monitor factories & retailers. on WebPDM implementation exp, Please fax resume to: 212-696-2468 email resume w/ salary reqs to: of communication & prior sales / mar- production from initial order to delivery. [email protected] Must be very organized, proficient in Reference keting exp. Salary is negotiable. Please Excel and Word, and very detail oriented. WebPDM in subject line. EOE send resume to [email protected] Fax resume to Igor 212-382-0237 Tech Designer Big Opportunity! Men’s & boys sleepwear/loungewear Leading Childrens Mfr seeks exp sales Production Coordinator co. based in Midtown & key supplier to exec for girls 4-16 & boys 4-18 sports- all major US retailers. Duties include wear. Must have contacts w/ mid tier & Lab dips, follow up on PO’s, NY developing tech packs for overseas location. Children’s exp a plus. mass market. Branded/private label/lic suppliers, garment fit & construction merch. Fax resume 212-695-7549. Fax: Patti 973-812-1731 evaluations, lab dip /strikeoff / handloom evaluations, communicating & following LADIES/CHILDREN up with suppliers. Must be detail ori- Production Coordinator ented w/ excellent communication ACCESSORY SALES Lg childrenswear co seeks person to skills. Exp. w/ Excel, Photoshop, & Well est’d NYC accessory co seeking highly Follow up with Wal-Mart, Target, JCP Illustrator. Great work environment. motivated sales executive w/est’d contacts accts and overseas factories. Must be Pls. email resume w/ salary req. to: [email protected] w/buyer & mgmt in major dept/chain familiar w/ CTL approval procedures. stores. Excellent opportunity. Min 5 CONTEMPORARY LINE Bilingual in Chinese / English pref’d. MAXX NEW YORK year exp. Strong customer following a 2-3 yrs exp. Fax: (212) 967-8631 attn:RL must. Salary + commission. SALES REP req’d for sophisticated TECH DESIGNERS Tech Designers V.P. of SALES & MARKETING E-mail resume to: contemporary line. Must have est’d Exp in cut + sew knits/sweaters to $85K Maxx New York, a leader in contemporary fashion handbags, seeks highly [email protected] accts with specialty and dept stores. Exp in private label/Walmart to $90K E-mail to: [email protected] Production Coordinator Exp woven tops, bottoms, jackets to $85K motivated Vice President of Sales & Marketing to grow the brand. Posi- Ladies’ Outerwear / Seeking individual to handle Wm color Exp full fashion sweaters to $85K , Handbags/Accessories approvals and sample tracking from Will train in full fashion sweaters $50-60K tion resps. for overall sales licensing & marketing strategy. Candidate Sportswear overseas. Wal-mart experience a big Call 973. 564. 9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy must have knowl. of retail industry; track record of building strong teams; REPS-AGENTS plus. Knowledge of WM color systems Seeking highly motivated salesperson Major Handbag/Accessory manufacturer preferred. Individual must be detail ability to lead in a fast-paced environment w/exceptional leadership skills. who is a team player w/ est’d contacts looking for reps and agents w/ territory oriented and organized. Please fax Technical Designer/ 1 w/ buyers & mgmt in major dept/chain account or key account experience. resume to 212-239-2766. Min of 0 yrs senior level management exp.Competitive compensation package. stores. Min 5 years exp. Great customer Full US based design team, strong Production Assistant following a must. Please E-mail resume : in-line trend and fashion collection in Growing woven based women’s sports- Email resume confidentially to owner at [email protected] [email protected] stock. Please send resume, brief sales wear co. seeks a Technical Designer / history & Channels/Accts to: PRODUCTION/ Sales key acct exec $125-150K+commish. [email protected] Production Asst to organize, create tech Current exp in JR bottoms nec. This CUSTOMER SERVICE packs & track fit samples. Working with large Co. has the established store clients production & sales to ensure proper fit presently. Potential $250-300K. Must Fast growing accessories company & execution. Must be proficient in Il- SALES REPS WANTED seeks detail oriented individual for order hang with Mudd, L.E.I., Jones, Liz etc. lustrator & Microsoft Word. Ability to Call 973-564-9236 Agncy. HOT VINTAGE BELT LINE processing with our Far East manufacturer, speak Chinese a plus. Great work envi- South Atlantic, West S. Central, & tracking shipments, customer service. ronment with oppty for growth! Please SALES MANAGER California. Must have specialty store Must be computer literate with knowledge email resumes: [email protected] following. [email protected] or Outlook, Excel and QuickBooks. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Alexia Admor ® contemp NY based branded E-mail resume to: [email protected] Alexis Bittar is seeks an enthusiastic individual to join our & private label dress & tops design house Technical Design sales team. Will be a strategic thinker, plan & monitor sales seeks sales mgr. for NY team to take Sales & Sales Rep projections as well as develop & maintain strong relationships comp. to next level. WOW, what an oppt! PRODUCTION OUTERWEAR Send resume to: [email protected] Leading NYC Outerwear Co. seeks exp’d. Branded, well est’d. Apparel Mfr. seeks w/ national & international key department store & specialty or fax 212 971-9236 Sales & Sales Rep for Men’s & Ladies’ PROFESSIONALS Technical person with 6 years minimum accounts. Applicant should have 3 yrs. min. sales exp. with Outerwear, Suits, and Blazers. Close Growing Intimates co. Seeks Addt’l Sales $ Open current exp in Missy experience in patternmaking, fabrics, fashion forward product and strong retail math skills. Special occasion dresses. Relationships relationships w/Sears, JCP, and Walmart Productional ppl to Deal w/ Overseas construction, specs, and production. preferred. E-mail resume & commission Factories 3yrs + exp $40-$60K Qualified candidates, please send resume and salary w/ dept. stores + specialty stores a must. [email protected] Must be organized, able to communicate Very strong line. Call 973. 564. 9236 agcy required to: [email protected] daily with factories, work well under requirements to [email protected] pressure, and possess strong computer P/T TEMPORARY skills. Fax resume to Jodi: 212-997-9188 Account Executive Acess. Co seeks detail oriented indiv to work P/T for temporary position in Technical Design DAVID BROOKS purchasing/production. Starting Aug 1 OUTERWEAR SALES EXECUTIVE Leading better sportswear line is seeking for approx 5 months: M-F 11:00-5:30 an experienced Account Executive Must have exc computer skills: Email, Ladies import apparel co. seeks techni- HIGH-END Childrens Wear showroom with strong specialty store contacts. Word, & Excel. Fax res: 212-302-2753 cal person w/ 5 years min experience is looking for a highly seasoned, en- REQUIREMENTS INCLUDE: in pattern correction, construction, ergetic, motivated sales pro. w/ pro- •Mininum 5 years exp specs and production. Must be organ- •Regional Market Travel a must Quality Assurance Assistant ized, able to communicate w/ factories, ven track record. Must have great •Must have EXCEL & computer exp strong attn to detail and proficient in , Fast paced, high energy, growing customer service skills strong sell- •Multi-tasker Illustrator and Excel. Email resume to: •Great Customer Service Women’s Apparel Co seeks Entry Lev- [email protected] ing ability & organizational skills. el professional to work with Director of •Strong Selling Skills Wholesale experience & computer •Organized Quality Assurance & Color & Testing savvy a MUST. Great Benefits Pckg. Please Fax resume to: 212. 768. 1843 Manager on special projects. Update TECHNICAL SWEATER and file color submits, ensure that color approvals are sent, put in supply DESIGNER Please email resume to Account Executive requests, send out packages & assist Womenswear manufacturer seeks [email protected] LAGOS, one of the most successfully Dept as needed. Must be detail orient- technical sweater designer with min 2 marketed luxury designer jewelry ed, organized, dependable & strong yrs import experience. Must be proficient brands in America, has a NE based computer skills. Great opportunity for in flat sketching and specing, be oppty for an exp’d exec. 3-5 yrs success growth and excellent benefit package. Fax resume: 212 827 3052 Attn: SS knowledgeable in sweater stitches, in luxury brand sales, strong analytical yarns, and construction. Will be send background & ability to expand sales tech packs to factories for sweater ACCESSORIES/COSMETICS and profitability in our existing inde- development and follow through to pendent store business as well as RECEPTIONIST production, including generating Excellent Oppty. Seeking experienced develop new accts. Responsible for NE grades specs for bulk, making fit and sales person with chain store following. territory. Requires 75% travel. Accessory co. seeks detail oriented, Email resume to: [email protected] SALARY + BONUS + BENEFITS computer literate Receptionist. Ability trim comments, and sourcing yarns. to multi-task with some administrative Experience in contemporary market a [email protected] Pls. fax resume to(646) 349-5231 big plus. No phone calls please! EEO/AA work. Fax resume to Igor 212-382-0237

SEAMSTRESS/TAILOR Traffic Coord to $45K. Current exp in Retail/Alternations Dept. White Plains follow-up of shipments, e-mails overseas, NY seeks expert fitter, seamstress/tailor sending docs for customs clearances. in luxury retail store. Call (914) 328-0330 AS400 nec. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy WWD ACCESSORIES

FALL 2006 | ISSUE DATE: AUGUST 7 | CLOSE DATE: JUNE 21

Want it. Need it. Have to have it.

The ultimate shopping guide for sophisticated consumers, industry leaders, media mavens, Hollywood stylists and entertainment insiders who need to have the hottest accessories each season.

Bonus Distribution: Select Neiman Marcus InCircle customers and qualifi ed consumers. PHOTO BY CHARLES MASTERS

For more information on advertising in this special section, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, at 212-630-4596; Melissa Morales, account manager fine jewelry, 212-630-4588; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director, at 331-4451-1303; Kathrine Nelson, senior account executive, west coast, at 323-951-1805, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide®