Gems&Gernology

VOLUME XIX SPRING 1983

The quarterly journal of the Gemological Institute of America SPRING 1983 Volume 19 Number 1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

EDITORIAL 1 The Gems & Gemology Most Valuable Article Award Richard T. Liddicoat, Ir.

FEATURE 3 Art Deco: The Period, the Jewelry ARTICLES 1. Mark Ebert 12 The Cap50 Topaz Deposit, Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil Peter C. Keller 21 Harry Winston: A Story Told in Diamonds Laurence S. Krashes 30 Padparadscha: What's in a Name? Robert Crowningshield

NOTES . 37 A New Classification for Red-to-Violet Garnets AND NEW W. William Hanneman TECHNIQUES 41 A Response to "A New Classification for Red-to-Violet Garnets" D. Vincenl Manson and Carol M. Stockton

REGULAR 43 Gem Trade Lab Notes FEATURES 50 Gemological Abstracts 57 Book Reviews 59 Gem News

ABOUT THE COVER: Art Deco, which predominated in Europe and the United States in the 1920s and 1930s, is perhaps the most distinctive style of jewelry to have emerged in the 20th century. These two pieces-a platinum, yellow gold, diamond, and blue sapphire brooch (l9I16 in. high x 1 in. wide; 3.9 cm x 2.5 cm) and diamond and onyx in platinum bar pin (2% in. x 1/4 in.; 5.4 cm x 0.6 cm)-illustrate the symmetry, materials commonly used, and color combinations that are among the many characteristics of Art Deco described in the article by Mark Ebert in this issue. lewelry courtesy of Richter's of Palm Beach and Ebert-Richter. Photo " 1983 Harold and Erica VM Pelt-Photographers, Los Angeles. Composition for Gems & Gemology is by Printed Page Graphics, Fullerton, CA. The color separations are by Effective Graphics, Compton, CA. Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD.

"'1983 Gemological Institute 01 America. All rights reserved. ISSN 001 6-626X EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Editor, Gem Trade Lab Notes STAFF Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr. Alice S. Keller Chuck Fryer I660 Stewart St. Associate Editor Editor, Gemological Abstracts Santa Monica, CA 90404 Peter C. Keller Dona M. Dirlarn Telephone: (213)829-2991 Associate Editor Editorial Assistant Editor, Book Reviews D. Vincent Manson Sally A. Thomas Michael Ross Contributing Editor Subscriptions Editor, Gem News john 1. Koivula lanet M. Fryer, Manager Stephanie Dillion Lisa Schmidt, Assistant Manager

PRODUCTION Art Director Cover Design GIA Photographer STAFF Susan Kingsbury Peter Johnston Mike Havstad

EDITORIAL Robert Crowningshield C. S. Hurlbut, Jr Kurt Nassatl REVIEW BOARD New York, NY Cambridge, MA Bernardsville, Nl Pete Dunn Anthony R. Kampf Glenn Nord Washington, DC Los Angeles, CA Los Angeles, CA Dennis Foltz Robert E. Kane George Rossman Sanra Monica, CA Los Angeles, CA Prrsadenri. CA Chuck Fryer John Koivula John Sinkankas Santa Monica. CA Santa Monica, CA San Diego, CA Sallie Morton Son lose, CA

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in the U.S.A. are priced as follows: $22.50 for one year (4 issues), $60.00 for three years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are: $32.00 for one year, $85.00 for three years. Special annual subscription rates are available for all students actively involved in a GIA program: $17.50 U.S.A., $27.00 elsewhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entered. Single issues may be purchased for $6.00 in the U.S.A., $8.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issues of C7&G are also available for vurchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and the purchase of single copies or back issues to the Subscriptions Manager.

MANUSCRIPT Gems d Gemology welcomes the submiss~onof art~cleson all aspects of the field. Please see the Suggestions for SUBMISSIONS Authors for preparing manuscripts in the Summer 1981 issue of the journal or contact the Managing Edltor for a copy. Letters on articles publrshed In Gems d Gemology and other relevant mattels are also welcome.

COPYRIGHT Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the llmits of U.S. copyright law for private use of patrons. lnstmctors are permitted to photocopy isolated articles for noncommerc~al AND REPRINT classroom use without fee. For other copying, reprint, or republication permission, please contact the Managng PERMISSIONS Editor. Gems el Gemology is published quarterly by the Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educat~onal organrzation for rhe jewelry ~ndustry,1660 Stewart St., Santa Momca, CA 90404

Any oplmons expressed In slgned artrcles are understood to be the vlews of the authors and not of the publrshers. THE GEMS & GEMOLOGY MOST VALUABLE ARTICLE AWARD

RICHARD T. LIDDICOAT, Jr. Editor-in-Chief

nce again the ballots for the most valuable article in the 1982 issues of Gems d 0 Gemology have been read and tabulated. We very much appreciate the time that our subscribers took to participate in the balloting. The comments on the ballots were particularly gratifying in their expressions of satisfaction with the joumal. It is with great pleasure that I talze this opportunity to compliment Alice Keller on her magnificent effort as managing editor of Gems ed Gemology.

The winning article for 1982 was "The Jade Enigma," by Jill Hobbs, which appeared in the Spring issue. This is the second time that Ms. Hobbs has placed first in the balloting, and we congratulate her on her accomplishment. The next most appreciated article was Dr. Edward Gubelin's comprehensive discussion of "The Gemstones of Pakistan: Emerald, Ruby, and Spinel," which appeared in the Fall issue. The article that placed third also appeared in the Fall issue: gemological Properties of Chatham Flux-Grown Synthetic orange Sapphire and Synthetic Blue Sapphire," by Robert E. Kane.

In recognition of their achievements, Ms. Hobbs, Dr. Gubelin, and Mr. Kane will receive cash awards of $500, $300, and $100, respectively. Brief biographies of the authors appear on the following page.

At this time, I would like to say a few words to thank our support staff of section editors, abstracters, and reviewers, whose continued commitment to-and willingness to work for-the excellence of Gems d Gemology is invaluable. I also wish to acknowledge those people whose names do not appear on a masthead but who were willing to take the time during the past year to help with the review process that is the backbone of the joumal: Joe Borden, Edward Dominik, Bill Ken; Jean Langenheim, Joseph Leavitt, David Morrow, and Ray Page.

One of the comments that we read most frequently on the ballots was the fine quality of the photographs published in the journal. We are fortunate that so many good photos are provided by the authors themselves, by gem photographer Tino Hammid, and by GIA staff photographer Milze Havstad. We wish to make special note that all of the cover photos for 1982 and many of the superb shots inside those issues were donated by the team of professional photographers, Harold and Erica Van Pelt. Our sincerest thanks for their invaluable contribution.

GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 1 THE WINNERS

JILL M. HOBBS After four years as a lecturer in the Colored StoneslGem Identification Department of GIA's Resident Program and one year as assistant manager of the Home Study Department, Ms. Hobbs is currently assistant executive director of the GIA Alumni Association. In this position, Ms. Hobbs has primary responsibility for developing the association's special Gemology Update classes, which teach the latest developments in synthetics, treatments, and sources through lectures and lab sessions. Ms. Hobbs is a native of Washington State. She is a graduate gemologist and received her B.A. from the University of California at Los Angeles.

EDWARD J. GUBELIN One of the leading gemologists in the world, Dr. Giibelin not only has developed his own gemological research laboratory, but also has published innumerable articles and given many lectures on all aspects of the field. He is particularly well known for his expertise in inclusions in gemstones; his book, The Internal World of Gemstones, is already a classic. In addition to his current research activities in Lucerne, Switzerland, Dr. Giibelin is honorary professor at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa. Dr. Giibelin was born in Lucerne and completed his studies at the universities of Zurich and Vienna. He is both a certified gemologist and a fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

ROBERT E. KANE Mr. Kane is supervisor of the Gem Identification Department at the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory in Los Angeles. His research specialty is the separation of natural and synthetic gemstones, on which he has written extensively. He is also a contributing editor for the Gem Trade Lab Notes section of Gems d Gemology. Mr. Kane, a native of Albuquerque, New Mexico, left his jewelry manufacturing firm there in 1977 to obtain his Graduate Gemologist diploma in residence at GIA. He has worked at the Gem Trade Laboratory exclusively since his graduation from the program.

2 Editorial GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 ART DECO: THE PERIOD, THE JEWELRY By J. Mark E bert

Although the Art Deco period extends rt Deco is the term applied to the design movement roughly from 1910 to well into the 1930s, A that predominated in Europe and the United States it was primarily a product of the in the 1920s and 1930s until the beginning of World War "Roaring '20s." This was a wonderfully 11. The earliest manifestations of Art Deco were seen decadent era. It was an age of Prohibition around 1910, growing out of the Art Nouveau genre, but and cocktail parties, of flappers and the the movement established its momentum primarily dur- Charleston, of racketeers and G-men, of nouveau riche and credit spending. These ing the years immediately following the First World War. were merely some of the manifestations Although Art Deco is commonly associated with the jew- of the social trirmoil that resulted from elry designed and produced during this period, the move- the extreme disillusionment that ment itself was far reaching, embracing all types of art followed the "war to end all wars," a . forms, everyday commodities, and even structures. violent reaction to and rejection of the This article examines Art Deco both in terms of the strict Victorian ideals that had prevailed. era in which the movement took hold and the distinctive Eat, drink, and be merry! The gospel jewelry that is so representative of this design style. The according to Freud! Sexual revolution! events that contributed to the development of Art Deco Women were emancipated - are discussed, as well as the characteristics of the fine voting, smoking, and drinlzing. The jewelry produced during this period. Also important to "modern" woman saw herself as sophisticated, worldly, even jaded, with any discussion of Art Deco are the materials used, the brazenly short skirts, plunging neclzlines, types of pieces popular at that time, and the designers short hair, and the "flagrant" rzse of who nurtured this innovative style. The movement itself 1 rouge, lipsticlz, and other cosmetics. virtually died with the outbreak of World War IIj yet it These, then, were the times that is now undergoing a revival as one of the most unique stimulated the Art Deco movement, the episodes in the development of design in the 20th century. period and the jewelry. THE ORIGINS OF ART DECO The Art Deco movement drew inspiration from a variety ABOUT THE AUTHOR of different sources (see box). However, the excitement Mr. Ebert is president of ~bert-~ichter,Inc., a generated by the early visits of Sergei Diaghilev's Russian Los Angeles - based buyer and supplier of diamonds and estate jewelry. Ballet to Paris (the first of which was in 1909) is widely Acknowledgments: The author thanks Richter's of considered to have marlzed the beginning of the Art Deco Palm Beach and Richter's of Nashville for the style. Diaghilev's production of "Scheherezade," which loan of a number of the pieces used to illustrate made its debut in 1910, is often cited as a major influence. this article. Thanks are also given to Cartier, Inc., of New York City, who kindly allowed the use of The sets and costume designs were bold and exotic, using several of the photographs from their book intensely vivid color combinations such as red and black, Retrospective Louis Cartier (1982). blue and green (Retrospective Louis Cartier, 1982); the Y983 Gemological Institute of America flavor was distinctly Oriental-both exciting and inviting.

GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 3 The enthusiasm with which these revolution- this "industrial monster," the Art Deco move- ary designs and color schemes were received had ment was, in a sense, an attempt to form an al- a significant impact on the decorative arts of the liance between art and industry, man and ma- period. The influence and popularity of the Rus- chine. For the first time, efforts were made to sian Ballet continued to be strong well into the produce designs that could be adapted to mass 1920s. During this period, leading avant-garde art- production. In fact, the movement derives its ists of the day, such as Matisse and Picasso, were name from the "Exposition des Arts DCcoratifs et commissioned to work on the sets and costum- Industriels Modemes" (Exposition of Decorative ing. Thus, the public was initiated, by way of the Arts and Modern Manufacturers) held in Paris in theater, into a number of important and serious 1925. The artistic instigators of this uneasy alli- art movements-expressionism, futurism, and ance were successful beyond their dreams. Their cubism-all of which contributed to the devel- designs were applied to everything from toasters opment of the Art Deco style (McClinton, 1975). to ocean liners, from architecture to ceramics, Also during this period, the opening of King from graphics to boolzbinding, from furniture to Tutankhamen's tomb (1922)produced an affinity jewelry. That such a distinctive style could have for all things Egyptian. This influence was partic- had such universal application is one of the fas- ularly noticeable in the decorative arts, in archi- cinating aspects of the Art Deco movement. tecture, and in jewelry. Europe in the 1920s also The central theme of Art Deco was geometry, saw a heightened interest in anything Negro: jazz symmetry, and boldness of both design and color. music, American Negro dances, and African art Yet the movement was flexible enough to incor- were all in fashion. porate the ancillary influences of Egyptian, Afri- Concurrently, many artists and designers had, can, American Indian, and Oriental art as well as albeit begrudgingly, accepted the rapid spread of accommodate itself to the functionalism of in- industrialization and mass production. Whereas dustrial design. Both the spirit and affluence of the design movements of the late 19th and early the 1920s (Allen, 1931) allowed for the broad 20th centuries had been attempts to escape from growth and development of this unique design

4 Art Deco GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure I. The sophisticated lady in The Red Hat (Gordon Conway, 1929) embodies the sleek confidence of the emancipated female of the I920s, the peak of the Art Deco movement. From the prints and &;'wings collection of the American lnstitrlte of Architects Foundation, Washington, DC. style. And in jewelry in particular, the newly em- The motifs of Art Deco jewelry are quite di- boldened female of the postwar era (figure 1)wel- verse. They range from the colorful "fruit salad" comed the radical designs and bold color combi- flower baslzet (figure 2) to the Egyptian scarab, nations that Art Deco represented. from the ziggurat to the lightning bolt, from the Hollywood-style palm tree to the sleek grey- CHARACTERISTICS OF hound, from the Aztec pyramid (figure 3) to var- ART DECO JEWELRY ious Oriental forms (figure 4). Although early Deco In fact, the art of jewelry design and jewelry mak- jewelry tends to favor the more formalized floral ing lent itself well to the philosophy and design motifs, and the movement accommodated a wide ideals of the Art Deco movement. This becomes variety of themes, the vast majority of the jewelry obvious when we study the general characteris- designs tend to be very geometric and symmet- tics and specific motifs and color schemes of Art rical, reflecting the influence of cubist geometry Deco jewelry. It is important to bear in mind, on the movement as a whole. however, that not all jewelry that was produced Color is also important in characterizing Art in the 1920s and 1930s was of the Art Deco style, Deco jewelry. The bold whiteness of platinum and that not all Art Deco jewelry has the same combined with diamond or crystal is a funda- characteristics. In fact, some purists prefer to think mental scheme of Deco jewelry (figure 5). Infu- of this period as encompassing two separate and sions of color into this scheme were generally distinct movements: Art Deco (c. 1909-1925) and dramatic. Black and white was a favorite coinbi- Art Moderile, or Modernism (c. 1925-WWII). nation: blaclz onyx or blaclz enameling with dia- However, we shall treat the post-1925 influences mond or crystal or both (figure 6).The fruit salad as merely an ongoing development of an already motif represents a popular extreme of this predi- existing style, rather than as a whole new move- lection: several colored gemstones-usually ruby, ment: early Art Deco jewelry tends to be more sapphire, emerald, black onyx, and possibly tur- graceful and feminine; later Art Deco jewelry is quoise or coral-often combined with diamonds. more austere and geometric. Clearly, Art Deco was not a subtle style.

GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 5 Edwardian (the conservative design style that co- incided with the reign of King Edward of England, approximately 1901-1910). Early Art Deco jew- elry adopted some of the more austere character- istics of the highly stylized and graceful Art Nou- veau designs, but tended to formalize these mo- tifs (Battersby, 1969).The free-flowing curves and naturalistic floral motifs of Art Nouveau became the more precise curves of perfect circles and ovals and the very stark, formalized flower rep- resentations of Art Deco. Later Art Deco jewelry was, to some extent, a reaction against the soft natural lines, pastel colors, and floral excesses of the highly feminine Art Nouveau style. The pas- tels were replaced by vivid colors and bold color combinations. The soft natural lines were re- placed by harshly geometric and symmetrical motifs. Asymmetry and curvilinear designs were out; symmetry and rectilinear designs were in. The Edwardian design movement was not rad- ical like Art Nouveau or Art Decoj in fact, Ed- wardian jewelry was in the mainstream of con- Figure 2. This Cartier brooch (1927)-with servative fashion and formal attire in the early carved and cabochon emeralds, rubies, and 20th century. Art Deco, particularly early Deco, sapphires, as well as faceted diamonds- borrowed directly from some of the more popular represents the "fruit salad" motif commonly motifs of Edwardian jewelry: the garland, the bas- used in Art Deco jewelry. Photo courtesy of ket of flowers, and the bow motif, to name a few. Cartier, Inc., New York, NY. Edwardian jewelry influenced Art Deco jewelry in two other significant ways: (1)it provided the Early Art Deco jewelry was significantly influ- basis for the materials that would be used in Deco enced by the two design periods that immediately jewelry, and (2)it introduced the techniques with preceded it-Art Nouveau (the "radical chic" de- which these materials would be worked (Becker, sign movement of the turn of the century) and 1980).Edwardian jewelry was made primarily with

Figure 3. The pyramid design on this jabot pin by Cartier (c. 1920) was a popular motif of Art Deco jewelry. The sapphire, black onyx, diamond, coral, and platinum used serve to illustrate the bold color combinations of the period. The pin measrlres 10.2 x 2.3 cm. Photo courtesy o/ Cartier, Inc., New York, N Y.

6 Art Deco GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 diamonds and platinum-numerous small dia- monds mounted in an invisible setting of plati- num, using "lznife wire" setting and millegrain- ing techniques with precise open-work designs. Art Deco jewelry designers used these materials and setting techniques as a starting point in their styles. MATERIALS USED IN ART DECO JEWELRY As mentioned above, the basic materials used in fine or precious Art Deco jewelry were platinum and diamonds. Platinum was favored for three main reasons: its great strength (thus enabling a gem to be securely set with a minimal amount of metal), its lasting high luster (resistance to tar- nish) and its malleability (enabling the imple- mentation of designs with precise and intricate shapes and outlines). White and even yellow gold were often used as more affordable alternatives during the Depression years of the 1930s. Diamond was the gemstone of the period, and it was used in a variety of ways. Large soli- taires were very much in vogue, as were items made from numerous small diamond:. The "lznife- wire" and millegrain setting techniques of the Edwardian period eventually gave way to pave setting. Early in this period, Tolkowslzy (1919) published his dissertation on the "proper" propor- tions of a modern round brilliant-cut diamond, and, although most of the diamonds used in Deco jewelry were what are now considered "Old Eu- ropean" cuts, they were often "well cut" Old Europeans. Probably because of the cubist or geometric influence in the design of Art Deco jewelry, new cuts or shapes of diamonds were being discovered, implemented, and popularized: baguettes and emerald cuts, triangles and shield cuts, and pear and marquise shapes, to name a Figure 4. This lninaudikre by Cartier (1924) few. demonstrates the era's fascination with strong Colored gemstones also played an important colors and Oriental motifs. Made from paneled wood and gold, this piece is encrusted with role in Art Deco jewelry. The most popular of jewels and enamel work. It measures 12.1 x 6 these were rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, al- x 1.9 cm. Photo courtesy of Cartier, Inc., New though just about any and all colored gems were York, NY. used (e.g., blaclz onyx, rock crystal quartz, jade, turquoise, coral, and mother-of-pearl). When worn as center stones, these gems were usually of fine quality and faceted. As accent stones, colored also widespread. We do not lznow whether such gems appeared in the form of cabochons, carved synthetics were originally used to deceive, to leaves or calibre-cuts (again, see figure 2). increase the ease in matching size or color, or The use of flame-fusion synthetic corundum perhaps simply because of the limited gem iden- (both synthetic ruby and synthetic sapphire) was tification techniques available at that time.

Art Deco GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 7 this wide flexible bracelet of diamond (approximately 25 ct total weight) and platinum. Photo by Tino Hammid. Bracelet courtesy of Richter's of Palm Beach.

Frequently, however, an exquisite Art Deco piece (again, see figure 4). This use of enameling prob- will be found to contain synthetic accent stones. ably resulted from the Oriental influence on Art Pearls-both natural and cultured-played a Deco as well as the carryover from Art Nouveau. prominent role in the jewelry of this period. Cul- No discussion of the jewelry of the Art Deco tured pearls were first successfully marketed on period would be complete without malzing men- a large scale during the 1920s and quiclzly became tion of costume jewelry. The famous French cou- very fashionable. Pearls were used in a variety of turiere Coco Chanel is credited with malting cos- ways: in chokers or long strands, as a contrast to tume jewelry not only acceptable, but also chic colored gems (figure 7), to complement diamonds, (Becker, 1980).The popularity of costume jewelry and in the ever-popular sautoir. during the Art Deco period prompted a number Enameling was also prominent in Art Deco of innovations in jewelry materials. For example, jewelry, although it was much less popular than advancements made in the field of plastics, par- it was during the Art Nouveau period. CloisonnC ticularly the use of balzclite plastic, were adapted was the most common type of enameling used, to costume jewelry. Various types of imitation with red and black being the most popular colors pearls also became popular. Other materials often

Figure 6. The bold blaclz- and-white color scheme favored by many Art Deco designers is evident in this I. plal~num,diamond (abolrt 1 2 ct total weight), crystal, and black onyx bow pin. Photo by Tino Hammid. I Pin courtesy of R~chter'sof Nashville.

8 Art Deco GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 - -4 .I Pigurs 7, Pmb, dimon& adsmmdd$ provide a smbg combha* this

862 ct Phato murimy of C&I, lac., New YO&* MY. used in costume jewelry include aluminum, POPULAR TYPES OP chrome, marcasite, gIass, and hin nest one. It i~ in- Aaq DECO ,JEWELRY terestmg to note that for the most part dethis The specific typ~of fewdry rbat axe hi&ly h- period the public did not regard these costume voted a,+mnversdyI . wuely dmmd dm, jewels as cheap imitations, but rather as "frankIy a particular era often3 je Cct rhe wnWm .of fake" ornaments: fun, daytime jewelry. When, in that perid During the Art Reerr era, me were the 1930s, they began ta be viewed &d used the cameos, chat&h&8,tiam, diathm, atudmany merely as ddiret imitations>they quickly lost their other pieces meal of the Victorian period that popularity. dmm&akd the 19th centmy (Flower, ~951).The

GEMS & GEMQU3GY Spring 1983 9 Figure 8. A typical item of the Art Deco period is the double-clip brooch. This platinum, diamond (approximately 7 ct total weight), and blue sapphire brooch is a good exumple both of this type of jewelry and of the use of bold, contrasting colors. Note the symmetry of the brooch: if the piece were bisected horizontally or vertically, each half would be a mirror image of the other. Photo by Tino Hammid. Brooch courtesy of Richter's of Nashville.

liberated woman of the 1920s wanted no relics of Also popular were long-chained pendant watches the repressed Victorian female. The short hair and lapel watches, suitably jewel encrusted. The styles popular during this period also signaled an French firm of Cartier is appropriately credited abrupt end to ornate hair combs and large hat pins with the design and manufacture of some of the (Lesieutre, 1974). most exquisite time pieces of this period. The plunging neclzlines of the 1920s lent As the coclztail party became the popular form themselves well to long pendants and other long of entertaining, so did the coclztail ring become neclzlaces. The sautoir, a long neclzlace made up a particularly fashionable piece of jewelry. Also of numerous strands of pearls or colored beads, during the 1920s, some normally mundane acces- and ending with one or two tassels, was particu- sories became indispensable jewels for the woman larly fashionable. The short hair styles, which ex- of fashion. Articles such as compacts, minaudikres posed the ears, favored ornate earrings, often long, (again, see figure 4)) cigarette cases, and cigarette jeweled, and dangly. The short-sleeved or sleeve- holders were often elaborately jeweled symbols less dresses paved the way for a flood of bracelets for the liberated woman of the era. and a variety of bracelet styles. Bangle bracelets became very popular and often were even worn on the upper arms. Flexible platinum and dia- IMPORTANT DESIGNERS OF mond bracelets were also extremely fashionable ART DECO JEWELRY (Arwas, 1980), with styles ranging from the thin, Although a great deal of Art Deco jewelry was single straight row of diamonds in platinum to mass produced, the finest jewels of this period the wide (up to two inches, 5 cm] platinum and were individually designed and hand crafted by diamond styles that often contained more than 25 some of the most famous jewelry houses and in- et of diamonds (again, see figure 5). These plati- dependent designers of all time. A great number num and diamond bracelets were frequently ac- of these were found in Paris. It is generally be- cented with colored gemstones. lieved that the Art Deco movement originated in Perhaps the item of jewelry that is most typ- France and achieved its greatest creativity there, ical of this period is the double-clip brooch (figure whereas the movement was popularized and the 8). The two identical clips could be attached to- jewelry mass produced in the United States. Rene gether and worn as a single brooch, but more fre- Lalique, who is lznown primarily for his Art Nou- quently they were worn separately as decorative veau jewelry and objets d'art, was also an impor- clips on the lapels or belt of a dress or on the ever- tant designer of Art Deco jewels. His designs were popular cloche hat. Also particularly popular dur- mainly of the early Art Deco style, and he worlzed ing this period was the jabot pin (see figure 3). primarily in colored transparent glass, rock crys- Wristwatches became increasingly fashion- tal quartz, and enameling. Several other leading able during the Art Deco era. Usually they were designers also managed to survive the transition made in platinum and pavC set with diamonds from Art Nouveau to Art Deco. Henri Vever, Paul and other accent stones or enameling (figure 9). Brandt, and Georges Fouquet are among those

GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 who made significant contributions to both of these major design movements. The list of important French designers and jewelry houses that were both innovative and pro- lific in the Art Deco style is too long to discuss each one in detail. Jean Fouquet (the son of Georges Fouquet), Gerard Sandoz, Raymond Templier, Jean Desprks, Mauboussin (particularly in the early Deco motifs), Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels (a relatively young firm at the time), Lacloche, Chaumet, and, as mentioned earlier, Louis Cartier (who specialized in cloclzs as well as the wristwatches he popularized) are but a few of the many important French names in Art Deco jewelry (Lesieutre, 1974). However, not all of the leading Art Deco jew- elers were French. Georg Jensen, a Danish silver- smith and sculptor, produced some very creative jewelry and silverware designs. He worlzed pri- marily in silver and less expensive gemstones, and his designs tend to reflect the early Deco style. There were also some important American jewelry houses, foremost among which was Tif- fany and Co. Tiffany produced some highly styl- ized ArtSDeco jewelry as well as a number of cloclzs and objets d'art. Black, Starr and Frost as well as Marcus and Co. also made significant con- tributions*tothe Art Deco style. Figure 9. Wristwatches gained popularity Luclzily for the collector or appreciator of the during the Art Deco era; diamonds and platinzrm were typical decorations. Photo fine jewelry of the Art Deco period, many of the courtesy of Cartier, Inc., New York, NY. designers signed their pieces. However, it does not follow that a signed piece of Art Deco jewelry is necessarily fine and desirable and an unsigned DCcoratifs in Paris. Even today, the popular ap- piece less fine or less desirable. Often the con- peal of this distinctive art form is evident in the verse is true. The finest of Art Deco jewelry com- response to the "Retrospective Louis Cartier" ex- bines the finest gemstones available, the best hibit of Art Deco jewelry and time pieces held in worlzmanship, and the most interesting designs. Los Angeles earlier this year. CONCLUSION With the onset of the Depression, both the de- mand for fine jewels and the creative spirit nec- REFERENCES essary to stimulate innovative designs in jewelry Allen F.L. (1931) Only Yesterdny. Harper & Brothers, New York. were significantly weakened. The outbreak of Arwas V. (1980)Art Deco. Harry N. Abrams, New York. World War 11-when by necessity function re- Battersby M. (1969) The Decorative Twenties. Walker & Co., placed form-signaled an abrupt end to the Art New York. Becker V. (1980) Antique nnd Twentieth Century Icwellery. Deco era. Although there was an attempt in the NAG Press, London. 1940s to revive this creative spirit, it was short Flower M. (1951) Victorian Iewellery. Duell, Sloan and Pearce, lived. To this day, there has been no design move- New York. Lesieutre A. (1974) The Spirit and Splendor of Art Deco. Pad- ment as all-pervasive, enduring, or creative as Art dington Press, New York. Deco. Yet interest in the Art Deco period essen- McClinton K.M. (1975) Art Deco: A Guide for Collectors. tially lay dormant until the 1960~~when its re- Clarkson N. Potter, New York. Retrospective Louis Cartier (1982). Cartier, New York. vival was highlighted by the commemorative ex- Tolkowsky M. (1919)Dinmond Design. E. & F.N. Spon, Ltd., hibition "Les AnnCes '25" at the Musee des Arts London.

GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 11 THE CAPAO TOPAZ DEPOSIT, OUR0 PRETO, MINAS GERAIS, BRAZIL By Peter C. Keller

For over 200 years, the only ltnown f all the colored varieties of topaz, the most sought source of imperial topaz has been a small 0 after is the deep, rich sherry to red topaz most com- mining district near Ouro Preto. One of monly known as "imperial" (figure 1). Imperial topaz the oldest and most productive mines in comes from one small mining district just west of the the district is the Capdo do Lana. This colonial city of Ouro Preto, in Minas Gerais, Brazil article examines the history of the Ouro [figure 2). Preto district as well as the geology of the Today there are at least a dozen topaz mines in the area and occurrence of the topaz. Special attention is focused on the relatively Ouro Preto area. The most important of these are the sophisticated recovery methods used at Vermelhao mine, on the outslzirts of the city, and the Boa the Capfio do Lana mine. Also discussed Vista, Jose Correa, and Cap50 do Lana mines, near the is the gemology of this most prized color village of Rodrigo Silva, about 15 km west of Ouro Preto. variety of topaz. This article focuses on the Cap50 do Lana mine, both because it has been recognized as the first to produce im- perial topaz (Bastos, 1964) and because it has been one of the most prolific producers of this gem material. In ad- dition, for the last several years, the Cap50 do Lana has been one of the most mechanically sophisticated gem mines in Brazil. The author visited the mine on three occasions in 1978 and 1979 in conjunction with his participation in a documentary film entitled Gems of the Americas, which was coproduced in 1980 by the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County and the Gemological Institute of America. ABOUT THE AUTHOR LOCATION AND ACCESS Dr. Keller is director of education at the Ouro Preto is located about 285 airline kilometers north Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, California. of Rio de Janeiro, in the Serra do Espinha~omountain Acknowledgments: This study would have been range in the southwest corner of the state of Minas Ge- impossible without the complete cooperation of rais, Brazil. Once the capital of Minas Gerais, it is only the Capao mine owners, Wagner Colomboroli, 97 lzm by car from the modem-day capital, Belo Horizonte. Fernando Cello Gon~alves,and Edmar Evanir da Silva, who wenl out of their way to help. Dr. D. Vincent Manson and Dr. George Rossman both Figure 1. Rough and cut imperial topaz from the Ouro offered a great deal of technical advice, and Ruth Palchick did a superb job in the typing of Preto area, Minas Gerais, Brazil. The crystal (6 cm high) the manuscript. Pholo not credited were taken by and cut stones (19.21 und 17.78 ct, respectively) are the author. This study was made possible by a courtesy of Pala International, Fallbrook, CA. grant from the Deulsch Foundation. Pl~oto 1982 Harold d Erica Van Pelt- "1983 Gemological lnslitute of America Photographers, Los Angeles.

12 Capso Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 L - ">SF- Figure 2. A view over the colonial city of Ouro Preto, Minus Gerais, Brazil.

Access to Ouro Preto from Belo Horizonte is scientific description in 1833. Other important very easy via BR-3, the modern highway that 19th century reports include von Spix and von leads north from Rio de Janeiro. One takes BR-3 Martius (1824) and Gorceix (1881). about 33 km south from Belo Horizonte to the There has always been a great deal of interest famous iron-mining town of Itabira. From Itabira, in the mode of occurrence of the topaz. The first another unnumbered, but paved, highway leads detailed account was by Derby (1901).Because of southeast about 64 lzm to Ouro Preto. the highly decomposed nature of the rock in the The Caplo do Lana mine is located near the region, he called hls study one in "mud geologyu- village of Rodrigo Silva, about 15 lzm west of "an attempt to reconstruct from earthy materials Ouro Preto (figure 3). Access from Rodrigo Silva the original rock types from which they were de- may be very difficult in the rainy season, which rived." Derby observed that the topaz crystals usually lasts from December through May, be- were singly terminated and concluded that they cause of washouts of the dirt road. originally grew in open cavities. By the beginning of the 20th century, the de- HISTORY AND PREVIOUS WORK posits were no longer active; in fact, many thought The early history and production of topaz in the that they had been exhausted (Bauer, 1904). In Ouro Preto area is known only through the early 1908, however, Atkinson reported that the old to- records of the Portuguese royal court. According paz mines of Boa Vista and Saramenha in the to Rolff (1971), the earliest reference to the de- Ouro Preto district had been reopened. At that posits was in 1751, when "Brazilian rubies" were time, at least some of the mining was in alluvial reported found near Vila kca, the original name deposits, for Atkinson reported that the topaz oc- for Ouro Preto. Currently, Brazilian ruby is the curred in a gravel bed at a depth of about 5.5 m. name occasionally applied to topaz from this lo- Bauer (1904)provided some of the only known cality that has taken on a red color as a result of early production figures for the area. He stated heat treatment (which will be addressed later in that at one time as much as 18 hundredweight this article). The official discovery of topaz in the (about 2,016 lbs, or 916 kg) of topaz per year was Ouro Preto area is dated 1768, when the royal mined near Ouro Preto, but the average annual court in Lisbon marlzed the event with a splendid production was only 7 to 8 hundredweight. He celebration (Rolff, 1971). went on to note that the Boa Vista and Cap50 do Not long thereafter, mineralogists began vis- Lana mines were the most productive in the re- iting and studying the topaz deposits. In the early gion, and that as many as 50 people were working 19th century, Mawe (1812) included the area in in the mine at Caplo. his pioneer travels of Brazil. Eschwege visited the Production figures for the 20th century remain deposits in 1811 and 1812, and published the first very spotty, as accurate records are still not kept.

14 Caplo 'Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 3. The Capdo do Lana mine, near the vill age of Rodrigo Silva. This is one of the most mechanized gem mines in Brazil.

GEOLOGY AND OCCURRENCE belt extends from the Saramenha mine, about 4 The mining district is situated in the Ouro Preto km west of the city, to the Olaria mine, about 25 quadrangle of the Quadrilatero Ferrifero in south- lzm to the west of Ouro Preto. The majority of the em Minas Gerais; this region is best lznown as mines are clustered in the central area of the belt one of the great iron-producing areas of the world. between the villages of Dom Bosco and Rodrigo The region was mapped and studied in detail by Silva. The hills may be part of a large anticline a joint Brazilian-American effort just after World (Rolff, 1971). War 11; the findings were published by Johnson The topaz occurs in remnant hydrothermal (1962)and Dorr (1969). quartz-potassium-feldspar veins in the highly de- All of the roclzs in the region are strongly composed country rock. The potassium feldspar weathered, most to a depth of 50 m or more, thus is now totally altered to lzaolinite. Other minerals producing thick lateritic horizons (Dorr, 1969). found in the veins include euhedral quartz and The region is underlain by granitic gneisses, gran- euclase, and sub- to anhedral hematite and rutile. ites, and similar coarsely crystalline rocks; as The origin of the imperial topaz has been a well as by three series of metasedimentary rocks subject of speculation and debate for over a cen- of Precambrian age with a minimum aggregate tury. The question aslzed most is whether the thiclzness of about 14,000 m (Dorr, 1969). crystals are of pegmatitic origin. Gorceix (1881) The entire Ouro Preto quadrangle is underlain noted the association of topaz with quartz as an by roclzs of the Precambrian metasediments be- indication that the deposits were pegmatitic, and longing to the Minas series. The Minas series con- was later supported in this view by Boa Nova sists principally of a sericitic phyllite heavily (1929). The main argument against a pegmatitic charged with fine hematite and a ferruginous origin is the fact that the topaz occurs only in a quartzite. The Minas series was intruded about narrow stratigraphic horizon within the Minas 2700 million years ago by a granitic batholith that series. Pegmatite dilzes normally cut across stra- metamorphosed and domed and fractured the sed- tigraphic units. Johnson (1962), however, points iments; a second intrusion occurred about 1300 out that pegmatitic solutions could have been lo- million years ago. One or both of these intrusions calized to one of the stratigraphic horizons by the was probably responsible for the fluorine-rich differential competence of the beds during the hydrothermal solutions that invaded the roclzs emplacement of the dilzes. through fractures and gave rise to the distinctive The most recent research into the origin of the topaz mineralization around Ouro Preto. topaz was done by Olsen (1971).Olsen concluded The topaz mineralization is limited to a chain that fluorine-rich solutions that invaded the Minas of hills that forms a belt 20 lzm x 6 lzm running series during one of the early intrusive episodes east-west, just west of the city of Ouro Preto. This actually replaced the phyllites and that the topaz

Capio Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 15 Figure 4. Large earth- moving equipment initially strips away the deeply weathered country rock, which is now essentially a lateritic clay that contains remnant pockets of lzaolinite and topaz.

Figure 5. High-pressure water cannons put the formed as a result of the replacement of preexist- topaz-bearing clay into solution so that the ing kaolinite. Geochemically, this theory is plau- "heavies" can be separated from the lighter sible, and Olsen presents chemical equations to clays. The slurry is then washed down a substantiate his conclusion. Such a complex hy- concrete sluice to a concrete apron below. pothesis is not necessary, though. If, as the earlier researchers thought, there were fluorine-rich peg- matite-like fluids invading the Minas series, fill- ing cracks formed when the rocks were domed by the granitic intrusions, quartz-feldspar veins with localized topaz pockets could have resulted. With the deep chemical weathering of all rock units in the region, the enclosed veins and pockets would also be weathered, leaving lzaolinite and quartz "veins" in the lateritic clay soils and localized "nests" or poclzets of topaz. These poclzets of to- paz in what appear to be pegmatite-lilze veins are exactly what we observe at the Cap50 do Lana workings today.

MINING METHODS AT CAPAO DO LANA The mining and recovery methods currentiy used at the Cap50 mine are among the most sophisti- cated of any gem mine in Brazil. The method is essentially hydraulic, with high-pressure water cannons used to separate the topaz and other "heavies" from the tons of laterite clay matrix. The water is supplied by a large reservoir con- structed above the mine site. Initially, large bulldozers and other heavy

16 Cap30 Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 6. Final washing of the "heavies" before they are sorted by hand. Photo by D. Vincent Manson. earth-moving equipment strip the deeply weath- Figure 7. Hand sorting the residual "heovies" ered country rock (figure 4) and deposit it, along for topaz. with any remnant tbpaz-bearing vein material, into large dump truclcs. These dump truclzs then transport' their cargo to a large, cc~ncrete-lined washing pit. Here, over two tons of ore at a time are hit with a high-pressure water cannon. This action puts the entire load into a muddy solution which then runs down a long concrete sluice (fig- ure 5), through a sieve, onto a concrete apron. The muddy slurry runs off into a stream below. The topaz, quartz, hematite, and any other "heavies" are left on the concrete apron where they are washed again with another high-pressure water cannon (figure 6).The remaining "heavies" are then shoveled into a sieve box about 2 m in di- ameter where they are rinsed one last time before about half a dozen sorters come in with small in- struments to carefully pick through the remain- ing material for topaz (figure 7). After the hand- sorting is completed, the topaz is placed in a bag and the remaining residue is washed into the stream below, where a number of independent miners, or garimpeiros, wait to rework the ma- terial with simple sieves and shovels in hopes of finding topaz that has been overloolted (figure 8). Each day approximately 900 tons of ore are processed, yielding an average of about 9 ltg of to- paz, of which only a small percentage is gem qual- ity. The average yield at Cap50 is approximately 50 ct of topaz per ton of ore mined. It is important to note that all mining ceases during the rainy

CapPo Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 17 season, which generally lasts from December THE IMPERIAL TOPAZ through May. FROM OUR0 PRETO Not all of the topaz is recovered using the The topaz from the Ouro Preto district varies highly sophisticated methods described above. from pale yellow to a dark reddish sherry color Frequently, the bulldozers expose a lzaolinite vein (figure 9). In rare instances, dark red crystals, re- while scraping the surface. These veins are easily ferred to in the early literature as "Brazilian ruby," seen, as the pure white kaolinite contrasts with are observed in nature. These reddish stones are, the dark, chocolate brown clay. It is the sole re- however, commonly produced artificially by a sponsibility of one of the oldest and most trusted heating process called "pinking" (Webster, 1975). miners to follow the bulldozers and, when a vein The pinking process involves the packing of yel- is exposed, carefully search for any topaz pockets low topaz in an inert material such as magnesite, using only a knife. Working very slowly and care- or even sand, and then slowly heating the stones fully, he obtains yields that are often surprisingly to 450"-500°C. The yellow fades at these elevated large. These crystals also are usually in much bet- temperatures, but as the stone cools, a pink to red ter condition than the crystals subjected to the hue appears. The color has been considered per- harsh treatment of the water cannon. Apparently, manent. In experiments at GIA, however, Dr. D. though, the high production that results from the Vincent Manson has found that the color stability mechanized mining compensates for the greater may be variable. Care must be taken not to apply incidence of damage. too much heat, or to heat the topaz too rapidly,

Figure 8. Garimpeiros work with simple sieves below the main mining operation at Capdo in hopes of -orovering an -.l~rlookedtopaz. Photo by D. Vincent Manson.

18 Capao Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 9. A representative sample of fine imperial topaz from Ouro Preto, 5.75-38.53 ct. Photo " 1982 Harold d Erica Van Pelt; . courtesy of Ides R. Sauer, Brazil: Paradise of Gemstones, Rio de laneiro, 1982.

= 9 to avoid fracture. It is interesting to note that a chromium absorption band on the spectroscope is usually not seen in a stone before it has under- gone the "pinking" process, but will be quite ap- parent in the same stone following the process (Webster, 1975). Recently, there has been a great deal of con- Figure 10. Reputedly the largest imperial topaz cern in the industry regarding artificial gamma crystal in existence today, this 27-cm long, irradiation of gemstones to induce color. Imperial 5-cm wide crystal is part of the collection of topaz has been part of this concern. Nassau (1974) the Los Angeles County Museum of Natural exposed 31 samples of pale to medium yellow to- History. Photo by Larry Reynolds. paz to gamma irradiation for 5 to 30 minutes and found that while 14 of the 31 samples did not a topaz parcel in a window for a day or two and change significantly, 17 did acquire a distinct then compare the exposed sample with the rest brownish overtone which when combined with of the parcel before they buy it. the original yellow color yielded a rich "imperial Gemologically, the imperial topaz from the color." Nassau noted, however, that the irradia- Ouro Preto area differs significantly from topaz tion-induced color was not stable and that the derived from granitic pegrnatities elsewhere. In stones faded to their original color when heated addition to its distinctive color, the Ouro Preto gently at about 200°C for a few hours, or when topaz generally exhibits a lower specific gravity exposed to daylight for one or two days. To pro- (3.53 versus 3.56) and a higher refractive index tect against such unstable stones, many dealers (1.63-1.64 versus 1.61-1.62) than the more com- in Rio de Janeiro routinely place a sample from mon topazes. According to Webster (1975))this is

Caplo Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 19 Atkinson (1908)noted that there was a specimen in the museum in Rio de Janeiro that "was of beautiful color, transparency, and was absolutely flawless." The specimen weighed nearly 2000 g. Rolff (1971)reported a crystal in the Mineral Mu- seum of the School of Mines in Ouro Preto that was 20 cm long and 10 cm in diameter. He also reported seeing a crystal in Rodrigo Silva that was 30 cm long and 5 cm in diameter. The latter is probably the same crystal that is now housed in the gem collection of the Los Angeles County Museum of Natural History (figure 10).This crys- tal, considered the largest found in recent times, measures 27 cm x 5 cm and weighs approxi- mately 1800 g. Faceted imperial topaz of large size is exceed- ingly rare. The 129-ct stone at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC, is one of the larg- est known. The American Museum of Natural Figure I I. A large (57.35 ct) imperial topaz History in New York has a red imperial topaz that from Ouro Preto. Stone courtesy of Geminas weighs 71 ct. Figure 11 illustrates an attractive Llda., Belo Horizonte, Brazil. Photo :'o 1983 57.35-ct imperial topaz seen at the 1983 Tucson d Harold Erica Van Pelt-Photographers, show. Los Angeles. CONCLUSION due to a richness in hydroxyl in the Ouro Preto Ouro Preto has been the only source of imperial material versus a relatively high fluorine content topaz for over 200 years. Of the many mines that for topaz from elsewhere. The topaz from Ouro have been active during this period, Cap50 do Preto also shows a weak absorption doublet at Lana stands out, for both the quantity and quality about 6820 A. The Ouro Preto topaz commonly of production. Because of the relatively high de- contains tube-lilze inclusions running the length gree of sophistication of the mining methods used of the c-axis of the crystal. today at CapGo, production of imperial topaz there Imperial topaz crystals vary greatly in size. has never been greater. The apparently large ex- Most commonly they are less than 2 cm in length, tent of the deposit suggests that imperial topaz although very large crystals have been reported. production has a very bright future.

REFERENCES Atkinson A.S. (1908)Report on topaz in Brazil. Minernls Year- Minas de Ouro Preto, Brazil, Vol. 1, pp. 15-38. book, p. 842. Johnson R.F. (1962)Geology and ore deposits of the Cachoeira Bastos F.M. (1964) The topaz mines of Ouro Preto. Lapidary do Campo, Dom Bosco and Ouro Branco Quadrangles, lot~rnnl,Vol. 18, pp. 91 8-920. M.G., Brazil. U.S. Geological Survey Professional Paper Bauer M. (1904)Precious Stones (translation of 1896 Gerinan 341 B. text!. Charles Griffin & Co., London. Mawe J. (1812) Travels in the Interior of Brozil. London. Boa Nova F.P. (1929)Jazida da blenda. Servico Geol. e Miner. Nassau K. (1974) The effects of gamma rays on the color of do Brazil, Relatorio Anual do Director, Ario 1928, pp. 157- beryl, smoky quartz, amethyst, and topaz. Lopidnry lour- 171. nol, Vol. 28, pp. 20-40. ~erby0.~.(1901) Topaz near Ouro Preto, Brazil. American Olsen D.R. (1971)Origin of topaz deposits near Ouro Preto, lournal of Science, Series 4, Vol. 11, pp. 25-34. Minas Cerais, Brazil. Ecoi~omicGeology, Vol. 66, pp. 616- Dorr J.V.N. (1969) Physiographic, stratigraphic and structural 631. development of the Quadrilatero Ferrifero, M.G., Brazil. Rolff A. (1971)Brazilian imperial topaz. Lapidary lournal, Vol. U.S. Geological Survey Professional Paper 641A. 25, pp. 1556-1562. Eschwege W.L.V. (1833) Pluto Brnziliensis. G. Reimer, Berlin. von Spix 1.B.. von Martius C.F. (1824) Reise in Brasilien. Gorceix H. (1881)Estudo geologico das jazidas de topazios da ~inich.. Provincia de Minas Gerais. Annnes dn Escola Federal de Webster R. (1975)Gems, 3rd ed. Arehon Books, Hamden, CT.

20 Capao Topaz Deposit GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 HARRY WINSTON: A STORY TOLD IN DIAMONDS By Laurence S. Krashes

In conjunction with the celebration of ifty years ago, the now-legendary Harry Winston the 50th anniversary of Harry Winston, F founded the jewelry firm that bears his name today. Inc., the author hos investigated and The specialty of Harry Winston, Inc., is diamonds. But npclated many of the "na~ned"diamonds not just diamonds: Some of the most important diamonds handled by the late Harry Winston during in the history of gemology were cut, bought, or sold by his long career. Forlrteen of the more Harry Winston. interesting pieces are described here, As part of our celebration of the firm's 50th anniver- some for the first time. r sary, we have gone through the files at Harry Winston, Inc., to update and expand the reports on those stones that originally appeared in the GIA Diamond Dictionary (Copeland, 19641, and to add material that has surfaced recently to the public record. The following account is provided to introduce the personage of Harry Winston and to bring up to date some of the "named" diamonds whose history now bears his imprint.

HARRY WINSTON, 1896-1978 Called by some the "king of diamonds" (Tupper, 1947) and by others "the Tavernier of the 20th century," Harry Winston was indeed the most prominent diamond mer- chant of his time. Like the 17th-century French gem dealer and adventurer Tavernier, Mr. Winston traveled all over the world in search of the biggest and best in dia- monds and other fine gems. Born in New York, Harry Winston started in the jew- elry trade at the age of 15 in Los Angeles, where his father had moved for his health and had subsequently opened a jewelry store on Figueroa Street. A resourceful purveyor ABOUT THE AUTHOR of gems even in his early years, Mr. Winston would carry Mr. Krashes is assistanl lo the vice presidenl 01 his father's wares from one saloon to the next, selling to the Relail Dilision at Harry Winston, Inc., New newly affluent oil prospectors. York, NY. ' This resourcefulness became a hallmark of his busi- The diamond histories recounted here will appear ness acumen when he returned to New York with his logether with the slories 01 many other named diamonds in an upcoming book about Harry father. Still only in his late teens, Mr. Winston used the Winston by Mr. Krashes. $2,000 he had saved while in California to set up a one- ';I983 Gemological lnslitule of America man firm, the Premier Diamond Company, in a small

Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 21 office at 535 Fifth Avenue. Recognizing the dif- pable hands of his son, Ronald, who now oversees ficulties of breaking into the tightly controlled over a thousand employees in a dozen countries. diamond market, he decided to look beyond the The tradition on which the House of Winston was conventional sources of fine gems to the then un- built continues. The "named" diamonds that fol- conventional: estate jewelry. low represent but a small portion of this tradition. The key to the success of this venture was to establish good working relationships with the THE ARCOTS bankers in his area. Harry Winston got off to a These two pear-shaped diamonds, which origi- shaky start, however. With a jaunty cap on his nally weighed a total of 57.35 ct, were first re- head, he arrived late at his first loan hearing. The corded as having been given to Queen Charlotte bankers took the young man (only 5'1" tall) for a of England in 1777 by the Nawab of Azim-ub- messenger boy, and he was ordered to return to duala, ruler of Arcot, India. his boss with the message that the man was to On Charlotte's death in 1818, she specifically appear in person if he expected to get his money. named the Arcot diamonds in her will, directing Mr. Winston finally got the loan, but for several that they be sold for the benefit of her four sur- years thereafter he was accompanied to such viving daughters. Purchased by Rundell, Bridges meetings by a tall, white-haired, distinguished- & Co., Crown Jewellers, the stones were held by looking gentleman, who handled the formalities that firm until 1927, when, as part of the sale of while Mr. Winston quietly guided the transac- the company, they were offered at auction in Lon- tions. don. The Duke of Westminster bought them for Eventually, the bankers grew both to admire f 11,000' and subsequently had them set in ear- Mr. Winston's knowledge of diamonds and trust rings for his duchess. his judgment, thus firmly establishing him in the In 1930, the Parisian jeweler Lacloche mounted banking community. Using the Social Register the Arcots in the so-called family headpiece of the and Who's Who, he proceeded to offer his services Westminsters, together with 1,421 smaller dia- to the wealthy in the disposition of fine jewelry. monds and a 26.77-ct central round diamond. In Within five years after he opened his one-man June 1959, the third Duke of Westminster decided company, Harry Winston was involved in trans- to sell the headpiece, including the Arcots, at actions in which as much as a million dollars Sotheby's. In one of the largest single-item sales changed hands (Ross, 1954). up to that time, ownership of the headpiece was Among the estates Harry Winston handled transferred to Harry Winston for $308,000. Mr. were Arabella Huntington (widow of the rail- Winston removed the two Arcot Diamonds and road magnate Collis P. Huntington, and later of had them recut so that each would be flawless. his nephew, H. E. Huntington), Emma T. Gary The 33.70-ct pear shape was recut to 31 -01 ct and (widow of the former chairman of the board at sold as a ring in 1959; the 23.65-ct pear shape was U.S. Steel, Judge Elbert T. Gary), Mrs. I. W. Killam recut to 18.85 ct and sold as a ring in 1960. (the wife of a Canadian financier, whose jewelry included the Briolette of India as well as the THE BRIOLETTE OF INDIA Crown of Charlemagne diamond), and socialite This legendary 90.38-ct diamond (figure I)may be Evalyn Walsh McLean (owner of the Hope dia- the oldest on record, perhaps older than the Koh- mond and the Star of the East). i-Noor. Legend states that in the 12th century Over the years, Mr. Winston also purchased Eleanor of Aquitaine, the first Queen of France and had cut some of the finest rough stones to and later Queen of England, brought the stone to emerge from the ground, including the Jonker, the England. Her son, Richard the Lionhearted, is said Niarchos, the Winston, the Star of Independence, to have taken it on the Third Crusade. Word of and the Star of Sierra Leone diamonds. His cus- the stone next appeared in the 16th century, when tomers spanned royalty as well as leading busi- Henry I1 of France gave it to his mistress, Diane ness and professional figures the world over. And - his love of beautiful jewels was such that he 'Editor's note: It is the policy of Gems & Gemology would go virtually anywhere to find them. not to quote the current prices of gemstones. Prices on the named diamonds described here are included With the death of Harry Winston in 1978, only as part of the historical record of these unique management of the company passed into the ca- pieces.

22 Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure I. The Urioleite of India, a 90.38-ct stone Figure 2. The original Bruce Winston diamon that may be the oldest faceted diamond on record. a 59.25-ct emerald cut. de Poitiers. It can be seen in one of the many por- THE DEAL traits of her that were painted while she resided SWEETENER at Fontainebleau. In 1974, Harry Winston and Harry Oppenheimer, After disappearing for four centuries, the stone head of the DeBeers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., surfaced again in 1950, when Harry Winston pur- concluded an agreement whereby Harry Winston chased it from an Indian maharaja. It was then would purchase a lot of rough diamonds for sold to Mrs. I. W. Killam of Canada and later re- $24,500,000. The transaction-the largest in- purchased by Mr. Winston following her death dividual sale of diamonds in history-took less about 10 years later. The Briolette of India was than a minute. When Mr. Winston aslzed Mr. Op- sold again in Europe in 1971. penheimer, "How about a little something to sweeten the deal," Harry Oppenheimer pulled a THE BRUCE WINSTON 180.80-ct rough diamond out of his poclzet and HEART SHAPE rolled it across the table. Harry Winston piclzed In 1969, Harry Winston fashioned a 59.25-ct em- the stone up, smiled, and said, simply, "Thanlzs." erald cut (figure 2) and five smaller diamonds This piece of rough was cut into five gem dia- from a piece of rough that weighed 205.70 ct. The monds. The largest was a D-flawless 45.31-ct em- large emerald cut was sold in 1970 and repur- erald cut, which was aptly christened "The Deal chased by Harry Winston, Inc., in 1980. At that Sweetener." The others were an emerald-cut dia- time, to improve the quality of the diamond, the mond of 24.67 ct and three par-shaped diamonds firm had the stone recut to a unique heart shape of 10.80 ct, 4.19 ct, and 1.45 ct, respectively. All of 40.97 ct (figure 3).It was sold that same year of these stones were sold that same year to clients to a client in Europe. of the firm.

Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 3. The Bruce Winston diamond recut to a 40.97-ct heart shape.

24 Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 THE HOPE In 1908, the diamond was purchased by Sultan The 45.52-ct dark-blue Indian stone lznown as the Abdul Hamid I1 of Turkey for $400,000. Legend Hope (figure 4) is undoubtedly one of the world's continues that the dealer who handled the trans- most famous diamonds, with a history heavily action was thrown over a precipice while motor- veiled by superstition and tragedy. ing with his wife and child, and all were lzilled. Jean Tavemier, the French adventurer and gem And that in Turkey, it was worn by Zobeida, the merchant, discovered the rough diamond (called, Sultan's favorite, who later was executed by her in its rough state, the Tavernier Blue and believed master. to have weighed about 112 ct) in southwest India In 1911, Pierre Cartier acquired the Hope in in 1642. He subsequently brought the stone to Paris and sold it for $154,000 to Edward B. Mc- France, where, Winston records indicate, King Lean, then owner of the Washington Post, as a gift Louis XIV gave him a title and a fortune for it. for his wife. Despite the diamond's previous his- But Tavernier's son squandered the fortune, and tory, Mrs. McLean laughed at the legend that had legend has it that when the old man, at 80, re- grown around it. She often wore the Hope at par- turned to India in quest of new wealth, he was ties with her 94.80-ct pear-shaped diamond, the lzilled by wild dogs. Star of the East. When she was not wearing these Tavernier was only one of the many who leg- end claims handled the lovely blue gemstone and Figure 4. The legendary 45.52-ct Hope diamond later suffered grave misfortunes. Louis XIV, who was donated to the Smithsonian Institution by had a 69.03-ct stone cut from Tavernier's blue Harry Winston. Photo 1981 Harold d Erica rough, supposedly wore the diamond only once, Van Pelt -Pl~otographers, Los Angeles. and shortly thereafter died from smallpox. Louis XV never wore the Great Blue, as it was then called. Hedid loan it to one of his ,mistresses, Countess DuBarry, who was beheaded in the French Revolution. It was passed down to Louis XVI and wom by his queen, Marie Antoinette; they, too, were both beheaded. Princess de Lam- balle, a friend of Marie Antoinette, also was said to have worn it; she was lzilled by a mob during the French Revolution. The diamond was stolen from the French Treasury in 1792. Recut to 45.52 ct, it turned up in London in 1830 and was purchased by Henry Philip Hope, a banker, for f 18,000. Henry Hope 1 died without marrying. The nephew to whom he left the stone in 1839 (Henry Thomas Hope) sub- sequently willed it to his grandson-the son of his daughter-on the condition that he adopt the official name of Hope. In 1894, the new Lord Hope married May Yohe, an American actress, who later had a glass model made of the large blue stone for a stage comeback, which proved unsuc- cessful. Lord Hope subsequently went bankrupt and his wife left him for another man. (May Yohe died in Boston in the 1940s; her only income at the time was a $16.50-a-week WPA job. She blamed the diamond for her bad luck.) In 1906, Lord Hope reportedly was forced to sell the Hope diamond to help pay off his debts. During the next few years, the Hope changed hands several times.

Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 25 two superb stones, Mrs. McLean lzept them in her He talked animatedly for some time, but favorite hiding place: the cushions of her sofa. eventually grew quiet enough for me to drop Perhaps it is just coincidence that in the years off to sleep again. Then his voice broke in on after Mrs. McLean acquired the Hope, her son was my slumber: 'I wonder if that plane arrived lzilled in an automobile accident, her husband safely?' died, and her daughter, Mrs. Robert R. Reynolds, I couldn't resist it. I fished the cablegram was the victim of an overdose of sleeping pills. from my pocket and handed it to him, saying nothing. He gazed dumbly at me, and didn't Following Mrs. McLeanfs death in 1947, Harry open his mouth again that night. Winston purchased her entire jewelry collection. In 1958, he presented the Hope diamond to the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC, as a THE JONKER gift to the nation. In January 1934, a 726-ct diamond was found in Mr. Winston, it should be added, demon- an alluvial deposit on the farm of Jacobus Jonker strated little concern about the infamy that sur- at Elandesfontein, near Pretoria, Republic of South rounded the Hope diamond and carried it with Africa. The stone was of unusually fine color and him across the Atlantic on several occasions. He purity. It was purchased by the Diamond Produc- especially enjoyed recounting the following story ers Association for $315,000 and later sold to about his personal experience with the legend of Harry Winston for a reported $700,000. A mar- the Hope: quise and l l emerald cuts were fashioned from it. A few years ago I traveled to Lisbon with The largest stone, called the Jonker diamond, my wife. Since our two sons were quite young was a 66-facet emerald cut that weighed 142.90 at the time, we decided to return home on sep- ct; it was recut in 1937 to 125.65 ct with 58 fac- arate planes, as people with children often do. ets, to give it a more oblong outline. It was arranged that my wife would leave Lis- The Jonlzer was sold to Farouk while he was bon .for New Yorlz on the Friday evening, and still King of Egypt. After he went into exile in that I would talte a plane on the following day. 1952, the location of the stone became a mystery My wife's plane took off on schedule, and until 1959, when rumors appeared that Queen landed at Santa Maria (in the Azores1 for the Ratna of Nepal was wearing it. It has since been usual refueling. herd some slight' engine confirmed that the late Farouk did sell the great trouble caused a delay of two or three hours. diamond to the little country in the Himalayas While waiting for repairs to be done, the pas- sengers chatted among themselves, and the for a reputed $100,000. In 1974, the Jonlzer was fact that Mrs. Harry Winston was on the plane sold in Hong Kong to an unidentified business- was soon ltnown to all. One man went as far man for US$4,000,000. as to refuse to continue the journey and aslted The next two largest stones were emerald cuts to be booked on the next plane. that weighed 41.30 ct and 30.70 ct, respectively. On the way to the airport the next day I They were both sold in 1940. The 30.70-ct stone was handed a cablegram from my wife an- was repurchased by Mr. Winston in 1951 and sold iiouncing her safe arrival. I hastily crammed again in 1952. it into my pocket with other papers. Climbing The Maharaja of Kapurthala bought two of the aboard the plane, I took a sedative and settled smaller diamonds cut from this same piece of down, glad to notice that the adjacent seat was rough, and the other seven were purchased by pri- vacant and I could sleep in peace. I awoke from vate gem collectors. The smallest of the 11 stones a pleasant nap when we touched down at Smta Maria to refuel, and got out to stretch my legs cut from the original piece of Jonlzer rough was for a while. sold in October 1975, at the Sotheby Parize Bernet When we reboarded the plane to take off auction in New Yorlz, for $570,000. for New York, I found that the seat that had been vacant was now occupied. Its occupant THE NIARCHOS was bubbling over with a story about his es- cape from traveling on the same plane as the A 426.50-ct diamond of exceptionally fine color wife of the owner of the 'Hope diamond.' was found in the Premier Mine, Republic of South 'I'm not superstitious,' he said, 'but why Africa, in 1954. At the time, the late Sir Ernest should I tempt fate? I decided then and there Oppenheimer (Chairman of De Beers Consoli- to change planes and here I am, safe and sound.' dated Mines, Ltd., the owner of the Premier Mine)

26 Harry Winston: Diamonds GElMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 5. The Nur-ul-Ain tiara. The name, which means "Light of the Eye," is derived from the central stone in the piece, an approximately 60-ct oval rose-pink diamond. Photo by Varouj Yazejian, Photo Vahe, Tehran. valued it at $300,000. In 1956, this piece of rough historically as the Darya-i Nur) in 1934 (Meen was sold to Harry Winston as part of an $8,400,000 and Tushingham; 1968).The original Darya-i Nur parcel. Mr. Winston had it cut into a 128.25-ct was said to have been in the possession of the first D-flawless pear-shaped diamond with 58 facets Mogul emperor of India. In 1739, Nadir Shah of on the crown and pavilion and 86 facets around Persia invaded India and sacked the capital of the girdle. In 1957, the large stone was purchased Delhi. The treasure of over 1,000 years of Indian by Stavros S. Niarchos, Greek shipbuilder and in- history, including the Darya-i Nur, was then dustrialist, for a reputed $2,000,000. A 40-ct em- brought to Persia. erald cut and a 30-ct marquise were also obtained The Nur-ul-Ain is mounted in platinum sur- from the same rough. rounded by yellow, pink, blue, and colorless dia- monds above a border of undulating baguettes. NUR-UL-AIN TIARA Among the many additional treasures in this tiara On the occasion of the marriage of his late are a 10-ct yellow pear-shaped diamond directly Imperial Majesty Muhammad Reza Pahlavi above the Nur-ul-Ain, and a cushion-cut pink dia- Aryamihr Shahanshah and the Shanbanou Farah mond of approximately 19 ct on the left top of of Iran in 1958, several important pieces of jew- the tiara. elry were created by Harry Winston. The Nur-ul- Ain tiara (figure 5) ranks among the finest pieces THE STAR OF THE EAST in the world. The name Nur-ul-Ain, which means The Star of the East is believed to have been orig- "Light of the Eye," refers to the central diamond inally the Ahmedabad, a 157.25-ct rough diamond of the tiara, an approximately 60-ct stone that is purchased in India in the mid-17th century by considered the largest oval rose-pink diamond in Tavernier, the French gem merchant. He later had the world. it cut to a 94.78-ct pear shape and reportedly dis- The Nur-ul-Ain is thought to have been cut posed of it in Persia. It then resurfaced in the 19th from the original Darya-i Nur (meaning "Sea of century in the possession of Sultan Abdul Hamid Light"). The Darya-i Nur, perhaps the most cel- I1 of Turkey, who also owned the Hope diamond. ebrated stone of the Iranian Crown Jewels, is a In 1908, the Star of the East was purchased by crudely fashioned 176-ct rectangular pink dia- Mrs. Evalyn Walsh McLean, who later acquired mond. Reportedly, the Nur-ul-Ain and Darya-i the Hope as well. Nur, as we currently know them, were both fash- Harry Winston acquired the Star of the East ioned from the same 300-ct faceted stone (known from Mrs. McLeanls estate in 1949, and in 1951

Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 27 Within 24 hours after the faceting was com- pleted, the diamond was sold for $4,000,000- making it the most expensive diamond sold up to that time. It was set as a pendant to a V-shaped necklace with 38 pear-shaped diamonds totaling 29 ct and 35 round diamonds totaling 31.50 ct.

THE STAR OF SIERRA LEONE Ths, the third largest rough diamond ever dis- covered, was found on February 14, 1972, at the separator plant of the Diminco Mine at Yengema, Sierra Leone. At 969.80 ct, it is the largest alluvial diamond ever discovered. Harry Winston pur- chased the "Star of Sierra Leone" in 1972. He cut it into 17 diamonds with a total weight of 238.48 ctj 13 of the stones were flawless. Originally, the largest stone was a 143.20-ct emerald cut, which proved to be flawed. Mr. Winston felt he wanted something special, so he ordered it recut; the re- sult was a flawless 32.52-ct emerald cut. Six of the other flawless stones were used in the Star of Sierra Leone brooch. Arranged like the petals of a flower, there are five marquise dia- monds of 4.29 ct, 3.92 ct, 3.73 ct, 2.97 ct, and 2.86 Figure 6. The Star of Independence, a 75.52-ct ct, and a pear shape of 3.25 ct. The brooch was D-flawless diamond fashioned in the spring of sold in Europe in 19 75. 1976 from a 204.10-ct piece of rough. Ultimately, the largest stone recovered from the rough was a flawless pear shape of 53.96 ct. It sold in 1975 as the pendant to a V-shaped neclz- he sold it to King Farouk of Egypt for $1,000,000. lace that also contained 98 brilliants weighing a At the time of Farouk's overthrow (1952), the total of 40.83 ct. stone still had not been paid for. It took Mr. Win- ston several years of litigationto obtain access to a safe deposit box in Switzerland to reclaim the THE VARGAS Star of the East. With a rough weight of 726.60 ct, the Vargas qual- The stone was resold in 1969. In 1977, the ifies as one of the largest diamonds ever found. It owner asked Mr. Winston to remount the dia- was discovered in 1938 in the San Antonio River, mond to be worn as a pendant to a V-shaped dia- municipality of Coromandel, Minas Gerais, Bra- mond necklace. Two D-flawless pear-shaped dia- zil, by a native prospector and his partner, a farmer. mond drops of 28 ct each can also be attached to It was named in honor of the then-president of the necklace. The Star of the East may be worn Brazil, Getulio Vargas. The partners sold the stone as a drop to a fabulous dog collar of 142 round to a broker for about $56,000, after which it diamonds, weighing a total of 173.78 ct, as well. changed hands several times. Harry Winston pur- chased the stone in 1939 for approximately $600,000. In 1941, he had it cut into 29 stones; all THE STAR OF INDEPENDENCE of the important ones were emerald cuts. In 1975, Harry Winston purchased an extraordi- The largest stone cut, which weighed 48.26 ct, nary piece of rough weighing 204.10 ct. The rough is now known as the Vargas diamond. It was sold was cut into a 75.52-ct D-flawless, pear-shaped to Mrs. Robert Windfohr of Ft. Worth, Texas, in diamond (figure 6) in the spring of 1976. In honor 1944. The diamond was repurchased by Harry of the American Bicentennial, it was named the Winston in 1958, and recut to a flawless 44.17 ct. Star of Independence. It was sold again in 1961.

28 Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Seven of the other emerald-cut diamonds- The Weekend diamond was sold shortly there- 30.90 ct, 29.95 ct, 25.33 ct, 24.35 ct, 24.30 ct, after to a well-married American client. 23.10 ct, and 17.91 ct-were used in a fantastic diamond bracelet made in 1947 for an Indian ma- THE WINSTON haraja. Two additional emerald-cut diamonds, A 154.50-ct colorless rough diamond was found weighing 22.91 ct (sold in 1946) and 19.43 ct (sold in the Jagersfontein Mine, Republic of South Af- in 1944), were set as rings. In 1968, the 19.43-ct rica, in 1952. In 1953, Harry Winston purchased diamond was repurchased by Mr. Winston and the rough in London for $230,800. It was subse- recut to a flawless 19.24 ct. It was sold in 1970, quently cut to a flawless 62.05-ct pear shape and repurchased in 1974, and sold again in 1976 to an sold to a "certain King of Saudi Arabia." It was American client. later returned to Mr. Winston who, in turn, resold it shortly thereafter to a private owner in Canada. THE WEEKEND At the death of the Canadian owner, the diamond In 1965, Harry Winston fashioned a D-flawless was repurchased by Harry Winston. It was recut marquise diamond of 20.63 ct. At first the stone at that time due to a slight bruise to a D-flawless was not looked upon with any special regard, as 61.80 ct. Mr. Winston matched it with the 58.60- Mr. Winston was responsible for cutting over 100 ct Louis XIV diamond and sold the two as a pair diamonds in the 20-ct range. Then late one Friday of earrings in 1964. In November 1981, they were afternoon, several months after the stone was auctioned in Geneva, Switzerland, with a final mounted as a ring, a customer well known to Mr. price of $7,300,000. Winston arrived at our salon. The gentleman was accompanied by a beautiful, statuesque blond who clearly was not his wife. Without much fanfare, he selected the above-mentioned stone. now in^ the man could well affofd to pay, Mr. REFERENCES Winston gave him the stone on memo. Mr. Win- Copeland L.L. (1964)The Diamond Dictionary. Gemological Lnstitute of America, Santa Monica, CA. ston always delighted in relating how, the follow- Meen V.B., Tushingham A.D. (1968) Crown Iewels of Iran. ing Monday morning, the customer ieturned the University of Toronto Press, Toronto and Buffalo. diamond, saying: "Thank you, I had the most Ross L. (1954)The big stone: a profile of Harry Winston. New Yorker, May 8. wonderful weekend of my life. I'll make it up to Tupper H., Tupper E. (1947)King of diamonds. Cosmopolitan, you soon." Hence, the Weelzend diamond. April.

Harry Winston: Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 29 PADPARADSCHA: WHAT'S IN A NAME? By Robert Crowningshield

For over 100 years, reference has been ome years ago the Gem Trade Laboratory in New made to a unique sapphire, the color of a S York was asked to identify a natural, rather intense lotus blossom, the padparadscha. Yet the pinkish orange sapphire as "natural sapphire, variety pad- precise hue represented by this rare stone paradscha" and we obliged. After all, it seemed to fit the has been a subject of discussion, and description for the term which appears in GIA1sown cor- often controversy, ever since the term respondence course, and we had seen such stones only was first introduced. In an effort to establish some grounds for a common rarely. understanding, the author reviews the Then one day about five years ago we were aslzed to historical references to the padparadscha call a dark brownish orange stone "variety padparadscha" sapphire, examines the modern usage of at the insistence of a jeweler's customer, who was buying the term, and states GIA's current it in an expensive ring. The jeweler, who had originally interpretation of the trade name purchased the stone as an "African padparadscha," lost padparadsc ha. the sale when the laboratory report merely stated "nat- ural brownish orange sapphire." From this point on, we agreed that we would no longer use the term padparad- scha on our reports, especially since other definitions were found to be different from that given in GIA1s courses. The experience prompted us to do some research into the history, derivations, and general understanding of the term in the trade. The results of this investigation are summarized here.

I-IISTORY ABOUT THE AUTHOR Just how the romantic term padparadscha came about, Mr. Crowningshield is vice president of the Gem when it was first used, and by whom is an interesting Trade Laboratory, Inc., New York, Gem study in itself. Many have never questioned that the term Identification Department. was derived through the Gernlan language from padma- Ackrtowledgments: The author is indebted to GIA ragaya (padma = lotus, raga = color), the yellow-pink Librarians Dona Dirlam, Santa Monica, and Lillian Oriental lotus (nelumbo nucifera), which is illustrated in Hensel, New York City, for their assistance in searching the literature. Special thanks also go to figure 1. However, some in-depth library research has Ralph Esmerian. Roland Naftule, :he American come up with conflicting, but interesting, results. Museum of Natural History, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Natural History for their The earlies~referenceto the term in gemological lit- cooperation in the preparation of the erature is found in Keferstein (1849).On page 13 of Min- photographs. eralogia Polyglotto, under "Our Ruby," he states that the "1 983 Gemological Institute of America term padmaraga in Sanscrit refers to lotus color or

30 Padparadscha GEMS 8: GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 rose red. On the next page, Keferstein notes that the term also appears in Bengali: padmaraga and padmaragmani, "mani" being the suffix for stone. It is interesting to note that this earliest descrip- tion of the padparadscha color is for some variant of red, probably toward pink, and not for orange, which seems to be a strictly modem develop- ment. (Holland 118981 also uses the term pad- maraga for the finest color ruby.) Embrey and Fuller (1980) state the following for the first ref- erences to the term, the ones most commonly cited. Padparadschah, A.K. Coomaraswamy, Ad- ministration Reports, Ceylon, for 1904, part 4 Mineralogical Survey, 1905, p. El6 (Padmara- Figure I. The Oriental lotus (nelumbo nucifera] gaya). M. Bauer, Edelsteinkunde Leipzig, 2nd from which the term padparadscha was Edit. 1909, p. 363 (patparachan]. R. Brauns, adopted. Photo Miguel Rodriguez. Kunstliche Schmucksteine, Handwijrterbuch der Naturwissenschaften, 1913, vol. 8, p. 968 [Padparadschah). German corruptions (with editions of his text Gemstones illustrates this other variations] of the Sinhalese padmara- frustration: "Padparadschah, padparadscha or gaya, from padma, lotus and raga, colour. A other corrupt form of the Sinhalese word, pad- trade name for reddish-yellow gem corundum, maragaya (lotus-color), has been introduced for now used more especially for the artificially the yellowish aurora-red gem material from Cey- produced material. 8 lon, but has become more commonly used for the Here we see at the tum of the century the deriva- synthetic material of similar tint. There is no real tion of the term from the Sinhalese word pad- need for this fantastic term, and it may be hoped maragaya, again meaning lotus color, but now that it will pass into disuse." pertaining to a reddish yellow gem, rather than Unfortunately, Smith's hope has not been re- simply red. alized. In recent years, possibly due to the influ- It is appropriate to note at this point that a ence of gem investment houses, requests for the healthy lotus blossom is, when about to open, a Gem Trade Laboratory to use the term on reports beautiful rosy red color. As the flower opens, one have increased. Perhaps if the synthetic sapphire sees that the tips of each petal are pink shading had never been produced and if Sri Lanka (Ceylon) into yellow, with the future seed pod in the center were still the only source of these very rare colors a bright yellow. Completely open flowers fade of sapphire, the term would not be the problem considerably so that the tips of each petal are pale that it has become. With the discovery of fancy- pink shading into white. Possibly the early colored sapphires in East Africa (figure 2)) espe- descriptions of lotus color vary because the cially Tanzania, there has arisen the desire on the blossoms vary. However, early descriptions do part of dealers to use the term as a variety of sap- not mention orange, though reddish-yellow is phire because it is passingly familiar everywhere. mentioned. Thus it seems that rather than eliminating pad- In 1909, Max Bauer, the dean of gemological paradscha from the language, the trade is foster- writers, used the term patparachan for "reddish ing its use. yellow" gem corundum.' In his 1932 edition, by which time synthetic corundum of this color was plentiful, Bauer spells the term padparadscha, 'Prior to 1909, Bauer along with most gemologjcal writers followed the common practice of using the the spelling we continue to use today, and de- term Oriental, to indicate that a gem under cribes it as "orange to reddish yellow." discussion was in fact corundum, in conjunction The meaning of the term padparadscha with the name of a common stone or other material to indicate color. Thus his "Oriental amethyst" is continued to be a cause for confusion, however. purple sapphire and "Oriental hyacinth" is orange An entry in G. F. Herbert Smith's 1940 and earlier sapphire.

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 31 Had the term been used consistently only for within the capability of others to manufacture reddish yellow natural gem sapphires (after first orange to orange-red flux-grown synthetic stones. establishing what that color is!), it might have This would probably tempt the use of the term graduated from being a trade name to a bona fide for marketing them. variety name alongside ruby, amethyst, emerald, Some purists insist that the term must be re- and alexandrite. As we see in table 1, however, served exclusively for Sri Lankan sapphires of a later writers have attributed the name to a be- delicate pinkish orange color. Others, citing the wildering description of colors. Significantly, the definitions of some authors (again, see table 1) popular perception of the color as reddish yellow which state merely orange, or, in some cases, shifted dramatically when Kunz (1915) quoted brownish orange, as well as orange-red, have up- Claremont's 1913 description of what he calls set purists by merchandising fancy-colored sap- padparasham: "It is a most rare and delicate phires from East Africa under the term African orange-pink hue, the various specimens showing padparadscha. many different blendings of the pinlz and orange." Although the majority of definitions cited here mention orange as a requirement for using the term, the modifiers make it virtually impos- MODERN USAGE sible to visualize any one color as "right." For in- OF THE TERM stance, "light, bright orange," "yellowish aurora- In our own time, the red-orange and brown-orange red," "intense, rnedium slightly reddish orange," to yellowish orange stones from Tanzania, as well and "somewhat brownish orange," are a few of as orange, orange-yellow, and orange-brown heat- the variations. "Salmon pinlz" further muddies treated or surface-diffused natural sapphires (see the water. Perhaps one reason for the wide range Nassau, 1981, p. 129), have further complicated of descriptions is the extreme rarity of fine orange- the nomenclature. Meanwhile, in addition to the toned stones from Sri Lanlza, with the result that flame-fusion synthetic material introduced by a many authors have not had the chance to expe- number of manufacturers some years ago, Kyo- rience a wide range of these stones or have based cera International, Inc., of Kyoto, Japan, is now their observations on the rather more common, marketing a nearly pure orange synthetic sap- but still rare, synthetic stones. At one time the phire (method of synthesis unknown) under the reason given for the scarcity of fine natural pad- name "Inamori grown padparadscha" (figure 3). paradscha sapphires was that they are so valued Chatham Created Gems, Inc., has made and plans in the Orient (where saffron is a holy color in to offer a flux-grown orange-colored synthetic many places) that they never reach the West. It sapphire as "Created padparadscha" (illustrated would appear, however, that just plain rarity may in Kane, 1982, p. 141). Similarly, it is probably be the real reason.

32 Padparadscha GEMS 8i GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 TABLE 1. A chronological listing of the use of the term padparadscha in the available literature. Color Reference Color Reference 1. Reddish yellowa Coomaraswamy, 1904 22. Orangea Giibelin, 1968 ("padmaragaya") 23. Reddish to somewhat Sinkankas, 1968 2. Reddish yellowa Bauer, 1909 brownish-orangea 3. Reddish yellowa Brauns, 1913 24. Orangy yellow to Parsons. 1969 ("padparadschah") orangea 4. Rare and delicate Kunz, 1915; after 25. Orange (more orange Feasey, 1970 orange-pinka Claremont, 1913 than pink)a 5. Orange-yellowb Michel, 1928 26. Orangea CIBJO, 1970 6. Orange to reddish Bauer, 1932 27. Gorgeous orangea Desautels, 1971 yellowa 28. Rare orange-redc Mason and Packer, 1973 7. Light bright orange a Gravender, 1933 29. Subtle pink-orangec Arem, 1973 8. Salmon pinkb Spencer, 1936 30. Intense orangy pink Bank, 1973 9. Orange to orange-red Juergens, 1939 (P 33)" with tints of browna 31. Light orangy yellow to Shipley, 1974 10. Yellowish aurora red Smith. 1940 yellowc (p 222)" 32. Slightly reddish Liddicoat, 1975 (and Peculiar reddish orangea earlier editions) yellow (p. 143)b 33. Orangea Webster, 1975 11. Orangeb Kraus and Slawson, 1947 34. Touch of pink in its McNeil, 1976 12. Peculiar orange-pinkc Webster, 1947 orangea (as opposed 13. Golden red (p. 103)" Pearl, 1948 to Tanzanian stones Orange (p. 252)C so labeled) 14. Rare orangea Foshag, 1950 35. Pinkish orangep Anderson, 1976 15. Tangerine coloreda McNeil, 1950 36. Orange pinka Schumann, 1977 Orange 'to pinkish I 37. Yellow with totally Arem. 1977 orangeb reflected tones of 16. Reddish yellow Schlossmacher, 1954 pinka (p. 1153" 38. Rare orange-yellow to Hurlbut and Switzer, 1979 Orange (p. 124)" orangea 17. Reddish yellowc Weinstein, 1958 39. Oranaeb- Nassau. 1980 18. Yellow-orange or Cavenago-Bignami 40. Tangerine coloreda Chernush, 1980 tangerine (p. 357)" Moneta, 1959 41. Pinkish orange ("an Newman, 1981 Orange-tangerine unnecessary term")" (p. 804)" 42. Intense, medium GIA Colored Stones 19. Orangea Weber, 1959 slightly reddish course, 1983 20. Orangea Baerwald and Mahoney, orangea 1960 21. Orange (p. 180)b Anderson, 1964 1 Peculiar brownish orange (p. 305)'-'

"Relers to natural sapphires. bRelers to synthetic sapphires. "Refers to both natural and synthetic sapphires

IMPORTANT EXAMPLES OF phire." Another stone in this collection, weighing STONES LABELED PADPARADSCHA 6.5 1-ct, is labeled "Padparadscha sapphire." An- A few collections of precious stones on public other stone nearby, of 16.36 ct, is called simply view have one or more sapphires that the cura- "Orange sapphire." (All three of these stones are tors have labeled padparadscha. An 11.95-ct illustrated in the Spring 1977 issue of Gems d stone from the Hixon Collection at the Los An- Gemology, pp. 270-271.) Not in the Hixon Col- geles County Museum of Natural History is la- lection but part of the museum's general collec- beled "Pink padparadscha-a bi-colored sap- tion is a rather flat pinkish orange sapphire in a

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 33 Figure 3. A synthetic sapphire marketed by Figure 5. The large orange sapphire (precise Kyocera International, Inc., in Kyoto, lapan, as weight, 100.18 ct) in the Morgan Collection at "lnamori grown padparadscha." This stone the American Museum of Natural History in weighs 1.05 ct. Photo by Tino Hammid. New York. Photo by Tino Hammid.

erate "bow tie." In the "bow tie" area the color appears yellowish orange, while the ends appear intense reddish orange. This Morgan sapphire was the standard that one collector used years ago as a guide in selecting a 40-ct stone that he consid- ered the "crown jewel" and most valuable stone in his collection. Unfortunately, when his estate was critically examined, the stone was found to be synthetic. However, not every lznowledgeable collector and dealer considers the Morgan stone to be a "true" padparadscha. One astute collector complained that it was too orange at the ends and yellow in the middle with none of the tantalizing pinkish orange he looks for. Figure 6 is a 30-ct pinkish orange natural sapphire that most quali- Figure 4. This approximately 14-ct stone, donated to the Los Angeles County Museum of fied dealers and many observers at GIA and the Natural History in 1955 as a "padparadscha GIA Gem Trade Lab have agreed satisfies their sapphire," was only recently determined to be understanding of the term. a Verneuil synthetic. Photo by Mike Havstad. CONCLUSION It has been suggested that the GIA, in cooperation ring which many people feel is "true" padparad- with other trade and educational organizations, scha color (figure 4). However, while we were pre- should make an effort to standardize the term paring a photo for this article the stone was de- padparadscha with the aim of establishing cri- termined to be a Vemeuil synthetic. teria by which a true variety of corundum could Figure 5 is the 100-ct orange sapphire in the be established. Morgan Collection of gems at the American Mu- Unfortunately, no tests that a gemologist can seum of Natural History in New York City. This make are helpful. The stones from Sri Lanka that stone is perhaps the largest and finest orange Sri resemble the above-noted 30-ct stone fluoresce Lankan sapphire on public display anywhere. It and have chromium absorption lines in the spec- has been used locally in New York as the "master trum but no iron lines. Similar pinkishlbrownish padparadscha" by some gem dealers and collec- orange stones from East Africa have an iron line tors. It is a superb stone-the outstanding gem in and weak chromium lines but have very weak to its display case featuring numerous other fancy- no fluorescence. Clearly, no set of chemical or color sapphires. It is oval in shape with a mod- physical constants exists to make the determi-

34 Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 6. This 30-ct pinkish orange sapphire was believed by many observers from both GIA and the trade to agree with their perception of the term padparadscha. Photo by Tino Hammid. Figure 7. The term padparadscha has also been applied-and many feel aptly-to this 1126-ct nation. One half-joking suggestion is that if we sapphire crystal found recently in the Ratnapura district of Sri Lanka. Photo 1983 are convinced of the derivation of the term as Tino Hammid. coming from the Sinhalese words meaning lotus color, we could have a master lotus blossom-or two. (A dying blossom would further allow the If the term is to have merit today, it will have to brown shades of sapphires to qualify!) However, be limited to those colors historically attributed we have no evidence that an orange variety of lo- to padparadscha and found as typical colors in Sri tus exists. Lanka. It is GIA's opinion that this color range In spite of the confusion in the literature re- should be limited to light to medium tones of garding the descriptions of the term, lznowledge- pinlzish orange to orange-pinlz hues. Lacking del- able veterans of the gem trade are in better agree- icacy, the dark brownish orange or even medium ment than this article so far indicates. For brownish orange tones of corundum from East instance, all dealers who were shown the slide Africa would not qualify under this definition. reproduced in figure 6 agreed that it was an ex- Deep orangy red sapphires, lilzewise, would not cellent rendition of their understanding of the qualify as fitting the term padparadscha. color of a padparadscha. All of those we spolze This new description will replace that given with who saw the spectacular 1126-ct pinlzish in the current GIA Colored Stone course when it orange sapphire crystal from Sri Lanlza pictured is next revised. Because of the subjectivity of the in figure 7 also agreed that the color was aptly term, however, the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory, referred to as padparadscha. Inc., will continue its policy of not using pad- It is clear that the term padparadscha was ap- paradscha on identification reports, treating it plied initially to fancy sapphires of a range of in the same manner as the trade grades Kashmir colors in stones found in what is now Sri Lanlza. sapphire and Siberian amethyst.

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 35 REFERENCES Anderson B.W. (1964) Gem Testing, 7th ed. Temple Press Juergens H.P. (1939) Gems, a Classification According to Books, London. Color. National Jewelers, Chicago. Anderson B.W. (1976) Gemstones for Everyman. Faber and Kane R.E. (1982)The gen~ologicalproperties of Chatham flux- Faber, London. grown synthetic orange sapphire and synthetic blue sap- Arem J.E. (1973)Man Made Crystals. Smithsonian Institution phire. Gems d Gemology, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 140-153. Press, Washington DC. Kraus E.H., Slawson C.B. (1947)Gem and Gem Materials, 5th Arem J.E.(1977) Color Encyclopedia of Gemstones. Van Nos- ed., McGraw-Hill, New York and London. trand Reinhold, New York. Kunz G.F. (1915)The Magic of Iewels and Charms. J.B. Lip- Baerwald IM., Mahoney T. (1960) The Story of jewelry. Abe- pincott Co., Philadelphia and London. lard-Schuman, London and New York. mason A,, Packer D. (1973)Illustrated Dictionary of lewelry. Bank H. (1973)From the Worlcl of Gemstones. Pinguin Verlag, Osprey lJublishing, Readingberkshire, England. Innsbruck, Austria. ~McNeilD. (1950)The jewelers' Dictionary, 2nd ed. Jewelers' Bauer M. (1909)Edelsteinkunde, 2nd ed. Bernhard Tauchnitz, Circular-Keystone, Radnor, PA. Leipzig, Germany. McNeil D. (1976) The jewelers' Dictionary, 3rd ed. Jewelers' Bauer M. (1932)Edelsteinkunde, 3rd ed. Bernhard Tauchnitz, Circular-Keystone, Radnor, PA. Leipzig, Germany. Michel H. (1928)The Poclzet Book for lewelers, Lapidaries, Brauns R. (1913)Kunstliche Schrnucksteine. Handwcj'rterbuch Gem 14Pearl Dealers. G.L. Herz, NY. der Naturwissenschafien, Vol. 8, p. 968. Nassau K. (1980)Gems Made by Man. Chilton Book Co., Rad- Cavenago-Bignami Moneta S. (1959) Gelnlnologia. Ulrico nor, PA. Hoepli, Milan, Italy. Nassau K. (1981) Heat treating ruby and sapphire: technical CIBJO (1970)List of Gem Names, 1st ed. Association of Swiss aspects. Gems d Gemology, Vol. 17, No. 3, pp. 121 -13 1. Jewellery & Precious Metals Trades, Berne, Switzerland. Newman H. (1981) An Illustrated Dictionary of lewelry. Chernush A. (1980) Dazzling jewels from muddy pits enrich Thames and Hudson, London. Sri Lanka. Smithsonian, Vol. 11, No. 3, p. 69. Parsons C.J. (1969) Prncticol Gem Knowledge for he Ama- Claremont L. (1914) Singhalese gems. The jeweler and the teur. Lapidary Journal, San Diego, CA. Metalworker, p. 395. Pearl R.M. (1948)Poptllnr Gemology. John Wiley & Sons, lnc., Coomaraswamy A.K. (1904)Administrarion Reports. Quoted New York. in A Manrlal of New Mineral Names, P. Embrey and J. Schlossmacher K. (1954) Edelsteine und Perlen. E. Schweiz- Fuller, eds., Oxford University Press and the British Mu- erbart'sch Verlagsbuchhandlung (Erwin Nagele), Stuttgart, seum of Natural History, 1980, p. 266. Germany. Desautels P. (1971)The Gem Kingdom. Ridge Press Random Schumann W. (1977)Gemstones of the World. Sterling Pub- House, New York. lishing Co., New York. Embrey P., Fuller J. (1980)AManual of New Mineral Names, Shipley R.M. (1974)Dictionary of Gems d Gemology, 6th ed. 1892-1978. Oxford University Press and British Museum Gemological Institute of America, Los Angeles, CA. of Natural History, London and Oxford. Sinkankas J. (1968) Van Nostrand's Standard Catalogue of Feasey P. (1970)Rubies and Roses. Charles E. Tuttle Co., Rut- Gems, 1st ed. Reinhold Co., New York. land, VT. Smith G.F.H. (1940)GemsLones. Methuen & Co., London. Foshag W.F. (1950) Exploring the world of gems. National Spencer 1.L. (1936)A Key to Precious Stones. Blackie & Son, Geographic Society, Vol. 98, No. 6. London and Glasgow. Gemological Institute of America (1983) Colored Stones Weber A. (1959)The jeweller. Eng. trans., Weber & Cie, Ge- Course, Santa Monica, CA. neva, Switzerland. Gravender M.F. (1933) Fascinating Facts about Gemstones. Webster R. (1947)Gemmologists Compendium. N.A.G. Press, Gemological Institute of America, Los Angeles, CA. London. Giibelin E. (1968) Die Edelsteineder Insel Ceylon. Giibelin Webster R. (1975)Gems, 3rd ed. Newnes-Butterworths, London. Lucerne, Lucerne, Switzerland. Weinstein M. (1958) The World of /ewe1 Stones. Sheridan Hurlbut C.S. Jr., Switzer G.S. (1979) Gemology, John Wiley House, New York. & Sons, New York.

36 Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 NOTES AND NEW TECHNIQUES

A NEW CLASSIFICATION FOR RED-TO-VIOLET GARNETS By W. William Hanneman

The recent article by Manson and Stockto17 on the shown in figure 1. The data points represent the classification of red-to-violet garnets should be ''trees." Now, let us loolz at the forest. welcomed by all gemologists. With this work, the The blaclz line connecting the pyrope and Gemological Institute of America hrrs opened the subject for review and revision. The following article almandine end .members defines the positions presents nn overall view of pl.evio~rsred-to-violet we would expect for all pure garnets comprising garnet classification schemes and proposes N new the pyrope-almandine solid-solution series. Points one that is well within the capabilities of every lying off the line result from either experimental gemologist. error or the presence of "other factors." Specifi- cally, if we disregard analytical error, points lying above the line suggest the presence of a substance having a positive effect on R.I. and a lesser posi- The major problem confronting gemologists with tive or negative effect on S.G. In this case, the respect to garnets has been that of "not being able cause may be chromium and calcium substi- to see the forest for the trees." The modem ten- tuting for aluminum and magnesium, respec- dency in gemology is to make more and more tively. Points lying below the line suggest the measurements on more and more specimens. This presence of something that effectively lowers the accomplishes the characterization of more and R.I. relative to the S.G. Such an effect could be ' more individual trees. Development of a useful produced by manganese substituting for iron or classification scheme for garnets requires that we by the presence of inclusions. stand baclz, loolz at the entire forest, and decide Because their statistical analysis indicated a what it is that we wish to accomplish with our high correlation for R.I., S.G., pyrope content, and classification. almandine content, Manson and Stoclzton divided In regard to the red-to-violet garnets, the data the red-to-violet garnet series into three groups: reported by Manson and Stoclzton (1981) repre- pyrope, pyrope-almandine, and almandine. The sent a prodigious effort. A plot of their data relating divisions between groups were arbitrarily set at refractive index (R.I.)to specific gravity (S.G.)is ratios of 60% pyrope:40% almandine and 60% almandine:40% pyrope, as determined by micro- probe analyses. Data points in figure 1 are color ABOUT THE AUTHOR coded to reflect this scheme. The lack of a clear boundary for pyrope, as well as the presence of Dr. Hanneman is a research analytical chemist and founder of Hanneman Gemological Instruments, Caslro several serious divergences, indicated that this Valley, California. approach was not completely successful. "1983 Gemological Institute of America Be that as it may, Manson and Stoclzton devel-

Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 37 1.84 - 1.79 - Almandine I 1.83 - 1.78 - 1.82 -

1.81 - 1.77 - 1.80 - X ua, Pyrope- C Almandine x 1.79 - 1.76 w - u Y C -0 -w 1.78 - I .- 5 1.75 - I1I -s' 1.77 - 1.76 - 1.74 Pvrope 1.75 - 1.73 1.74 - 3.6 3.7 3.8 -3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 Spec~ficGravity 1.73 -

1.72 - Figure 2. Graphical representation of refractive index and specific gravity limits for pyrope, Ill11 pyrope-almandine, and almandine garnets as 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 proposed by Manson and Stockton. The Specific Gravity lavender areas, although lying between the Anderson and Manson-Stockton lines, ore Figure 1. Data reported by Manson and undefined. Note overlap of areas. Stockton (1981) relating refractive index to specific gravity and color coded to indicate tively, they form the limits of the red-to-violet vntin nf nvvnno.nlmnnrlino nr Aoiorminorl hw 'UC'" V, yy'VyY.u'II'u"L.'"" UU L.wCw'A""'"U Yy garnet forest. The lower line, labeled Manson- microprobe analyses. Red indicates a ratio Stockton, can be considered a "base line." All of greater than 1.5:1, black indicates a ratio the garnets studied by these workers lie above between 1.5:1 and 1:1.5, and blue indicates a ratio less than 1:1.5. Lines labeled Anderson this line. The upper line, labeled Anderson, was and Manson-Stockton define an area within derived from B. W. Anderson's diagram of the which natural red-to-violet garnets have been pyrope-almandine series, which was reproduced described. Chrome pyrope values reported by by Webster (1975, p. 149). This line can be con- B. W. Anderson (1942) and Manson and sidered an expression of the upper limit of the red- Stockton (1981) ore designated by red squares. to-violet garnets, as determined experimentally by Anderson. The fact that it does not coincide oped what they stated to be a "more specific def- with the theoretical pyrope-almandine line indi- inition of the widely accepted terms pyrope, cates the influence of other factors in "real-world" almandine, and rhodolite for meaningful gemo- garnets. logical ~lassification.~'These authors proposed For nearly 50 years, the Anderson scheme has replacement of the term rhodolite as a garnet been in use practically everywhere except in group by the term pyrope-almandine, and set R.I. the United States. The scheme employs three and S.G. limits as illustrated in figure- 2. In order divisions-pyrope, pyrope-almandine, and alman- to evaluate this new definition, it is useful to dine-precisely those now advocated by Manson reexamine tneir1. aata (asI reproaucea* 3. in rigureC. 11., and Stoclzton. This author accepts without res- and relate it to previous publications of B. W. ervation the Manson-Stockton recommendation Anderson 11 947.. 19801 and R. Wehster 11 975) that the term rhodolite, as it has been used by U.S. gemologists, be replaced by the termpyrope- almandine. The question to be addressed here is COMPARISON OF THE B. W. ANDERSON whether the newly proposed Manson-Stoclzton AND MANSON-STOCKTON SCHEMES scheme presents sufficient advantages to displace Two red lines have been drawn in figure 1. Effec- the B. W. Anderson scheme.

38 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 1.79 - 1.79 - Almandine Almandine (iron spectrum)

1.78 1.78 - r

1.77 1.77 - Xw u u Pyrope- c , AlmandinePyrope- C - 1.76 - 1.76 - Almandine w > .-- ,- - (iron spectrum) 0 L 0 m m r 51.75 5 1.75 a a -- Pyrope (iron spectrum) bnrome 1.74 /Pyrope 1.74 - Pyrope (dlromium r, spectrum) 1.73 , I ' 1 I II I I I 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 Spec~ficGrav~ly Spec~ficGravity

Figure 3. Graphical representation of refractive Figure 4. Graphical representation of proposed index and specific gravity limits for pyrope, scheme for the classification of the red-to-violet pyrope-almandine, and almandine garnets as garnets on the basis of refractive index and proposed by B. W.Anderson. The lavender visible spectrum. All colored areas lie between areas, although lying between the Anderson the Anderson and Manson-Stockton lines. and Manson-Stockton lines, are undefined.

It appears reasonably safe to postulate that pyrope-almandine ranges: i.e., R.I. = 1.751 to almost all red-to-violet garnets likely to be 1.752, S.G. = 3.81 to 3.86. These deficiencies are encountered by a gemologist will have R.1.-S.G. unacceptable in light of the fact that the divisions coordinates somewhere between the Anderson are purely arbitrary, and there is no fundamental and the Manson-Stockton lines. Therefore, the characteristic that dictates that there should be merits of any classification scheme ought to be any divisions at all. related to how well that scheme covers all the Now, if neither of these schemes can be judged possibilities. The R.I. and S.G. limits for the fully satisfactory, there is room for improvement. Anderson and Manson-Stockton schemes are In the following paragraphs an alternative scheme graphically illustrated in figures 2 and 3. The lav- is presented. ender areas represent "possible" R.1.-S.G. coor- dinates that are not covered by the schemes and BACKGROUND FOR PROPOSED are potential sources of problems for gemologists. GARNET CLASSIFICATION SCHEME It is evident that neither scheme covers the entire If one's concern is limited to only the red-to- range of possibilities. violet garnets, the assumption can be made that If it is accepted that the purpose of a classifi- the red color is due to the presence of iron andlor cation scheme is to enable the gemologist to make chromium. It is generally accepted that the iron a decision on the basis of his test results, the pres- is associated with the almandine end member and ence of an undefined area or an area of overlap is the chromium with the pyrope. Consequently, undesirable inasmuch as it makes any such deci- irrespective of their calcium or manganese con- sion impossible. The Anderson scheme (figure 3) tents, all red-to-violet garnets have traditionally could be improved by changing the arbitrary limits been considered members of the pyrope-alman- of S.G. from 3.95 to 4.00 for the pyrope-almandine dine series. mixture, and from 3.80 to 3.85 for pyrope. The The spectral characteristics of the red-to-violet Manson-Stockton scheme (figure 2) suffers from garnets are well described in the Manson-Stockton a gap in R.I. values between 1.774 and 1.779. In article. However, since pure pyrope garnet is col- addition, there is an overlap in the pyrope and orless, it is the iron (almandine)that produces the

Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 color and the spectrum that is the hallmark of the In the final analysis, this scheme is little more pyrope-almandine series. than the B. W. Anderson scheme with the S.G. Spectral evidence also indicates that pyrope limits removed. The problem of differentiating forms another series in which chromium substi- chrome pyrope from red spinel has been fully cov- tutes for aluminum and produces a red color. ered by Anderson (1980). Mineralogically spealzing, one might call this a The remaining problem is that of assigning a pyrope-lznorringite series. However, gemologi- classification to those low R.I. (<1.750) garnets cally speaking, this series does not appear to be that show spectral bands due to both chromium very extensive and this author proposes that its and iron. The criterion for malting this distinc- gem members be classified under the color variety tion is based on the results of Manson and chrome pyrope. This nomenclature is believed to Stoclzton and is as follows: If the three iron be gemologically consistent with varieties such absorption bands at 504, 523, and 571 nm can be as chrome tourmaline and chrome diopside. With observed with a hand spectroscope, the stone its intrinsic chromium content and unique should be classified as pyrope; chrome pyrope absorption spectrum, chrome pyrope deserves will exhibit absorption bands at 675 and 687 nm, recognition as a distinct variety and should not and will absorb virtually all light below 570 nm. be buried in the pyrope-almandine series. If sufficient chromium is present to mask at least Finally, the determination of physical con- two of the iron bands, the stone should be clas- stants should provide information on which to sified as a chrome pyrope. base a decision as to classification. Both R.I. and S.G. measurements reflect the same elements of SUMMARY composition. Anyone who has tried to identify Because of gaps and overlaps, the Manson- gems by S.G. measurements is well aware of the Stoclzton scheme for red-to-violet gamets cannot difficulty of obtaining accurate results as well as be considered acceptable. A different interpreta- the problems caused by inclusions. The R.I., how- tion of their data leads to the B. W. Anderson ever, is determined more easily and precisely. scheme, which is already in use outside the United Consequently, the scheme proposed here employs States. The S.G. limits of this scheme, however, R.I. determinations only, without S.G. are too narrow. Given the problems of deter- mining S.G. measurements, a simplified scheme PROPOSED RED-TO-VIOLET based on R.I. and spectral considerations has been GARNET CLASSIFICATION SCHEME presented. The "official" recognition of the color Acceptance of the preceding ideas leads to the variety chrome pyrope is recommended. conclusion that the red-to-violet garnets could be classified into two categories: pyrope-almandine EPILOGUE series and chrome-pyrope color variety. Insofar as If any revisions to garnet classification schemes neither the colorless pyrope nor the almandine are to be accomplished, it is imperative that input end members are known as gems, it would be rea- be received from many sources and a consensus sonable simply to call all the members of this reached. In an attempt to encourage a dialogue on series pyrope-almandine mixtures for the pur- this subject, D. V. Manson and C. M. Stoclzton, poses of a gemological classification. They are all whose work was discussed above, have been characterized by a typical almandine (iron)spec- invited to comment on this paper. Their response trum. Tradition, however, militates against this, follows. so the old divisions are retained. The proposed scheme is very simple. Chrome pyrope is characterized by its chromium spec- REFERENCES trum and by R.I. values below 1.750. Members of Anderson B. W. (1942) Gem Testing for Iewellers. Heywood the pyrope-almandine series are characterized by 8: Co., London. Anderson B.W. (1980) Gem Testing. Buttenvorth & Co., their iron spectrum. Pyrope exhibits an R.I. of London, pp. 328-329. 1.750 or less, while almandine exhibits an R.I. of Manson D.V., Stockton C.M. (1981) Gem gamets in the red- 1.780 or more. Specimens exhibiting interme- to-violet range. Gems d Gemology, Vol. 17, No. 4, pp. 191-204. diate R.I. values are designated pyrope-alman- Webster R. (1975) Gems. Buttenvorth & Co., London, pp. dine. The scheme is illustrated in figure 4. 145-152.

40 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 A RESPONSE TO "A NEW CLASSIFICATION FOR RED TO VIOLET GARNETS" By D. Vincent Manson and Carol M. Stockton

The comments by Dr. Hanneman on our initial ogical classification. While "deficiencies" in our garnet article (Gems e?) Gemology, Winter 1981 ) data may present difficulties, they nonetheless are appreciated. We would agree with his assess- represent observed facts and, unlike a scheme, ment that the article is a discussion of "trees," cannot be changed at desire. Additional data may since it was intended to be primarily a report on fill "gaps" in our data or may contradict current data obtained to date. Indeed, in the final sen- assumptions, but the ideas presented thus far are tence of our article, we stated that "the precise based on the information currently at hand. role of color in the classification of all gem gar- We would briefly like to point out that in our nets, as well as the roles of the other properties article we did not recommend discarding the term examined in this study, must remain unresolved rhodolite nor did we equate it with the term until we have completed the examination of gar- pyrope-almandine. In fact, the only comment we nets in the other ranges of color and chemical ventured on this Subject was that "rhodolite, ac- composition." Since, as Hanneman, points out, cording to the original definition of the variety, "the merits of any classification scheme ought to falls within the region to which we would also be related to how well that scheme covers all the apply the term pyrope. " This original description possibilities," we intend to reserve our conclu- and its reference were included in our article. sions as to the gemological classification of any The creation of a classification system re- and all garnets until we have examined samples quires an understanding of the nature and purpose of as many different types of gem garnets as we of classification itself. Fundamentally, a classifi- reasonably can. Only after an adequate sampling cation is a means of describing as many relevant of "trees" can we stand back and consider the for- characteristics of a material as is both possible est as a whole. and practical. While various scientific techniques We would agree with Hanneman's statement make it possible to observe and measure many that "all red-to-violet garnets have traditionally gemstone properties, the availability of tests and been considered members of the pyrope-alman- instruments to the gemologist on a day-to-day 1 dine series." However, we do not believe that basis places practical limitations on the useful- such an idea should be accepted purely as an act ness of this information. Deciding what is and is of faith, without confirmatory evidence. (In fact, not relevant to gemology is ultimately a lzey is- our article presented, among the other data, two sue. We are not yet convinced of the irrelevance red stones that each contained more spessartine of chemical composition among the garnets. than either pyrope or almandine; please refer back Vital to any discussion of classification is the to our figure 11.) In any case, gem garnets have clear and unambiguous use of certain terms, not previously been characterized in adequate de- including group, series, species, and end mem- tail from the gemological point of view. There- ber. In our articles, we used these terms consis- fore, we have been documenting properties of a tently according to their established mineralogic large collection of gem garnets to determine meaning. whether and to what extent the data support or However, one term of particular importance contradict traditional gemological and mineral- to gemolgy is variety, a level of classification where the differing needs of gemology and min- eralogy require special attention. In our final ar- "7983 Gemological lnslitule of America ticle on garnets, we will present a gem garnet

Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 41 classification based on all the data we have gath- volved in a valid classification system that covers ered. The ideas expressed by Hanneman are not all gem garnets. unreasonable if one wishes to devise a classifi- cation system for a portion of the garnet "forest," such as the red-to-violet garnets. However, input Editor's Note: Dr. Hanneman has indicated his inten- from many sources will be essential to reach a tion to continue this discourse after the final classifi- consensus among gemologists on the issues in- cation article is published.

The Gemological Institute of America wishes to extend its sincerest appreciation to all of the people who contributed to the activities of the Institute through donations of appropriate gemological materials. We are pleased to acltnowledge many of you below: Pat Adams F. P. Heffelfinger John Y. Ng A. E. Alexander [estate]' Elise T. Hinrichs Ama Nishtar Benjamin 0. Anderson Lee C. Hunt Gail Osterman G. Andrasko Industrie de Pierres Scientifiques Dr. and Mrs. John F. Parker, Jr. Dr. Pranab Bagchi Intergold' James Patrias Robert Bartlett Jim Jewelers Anlte Pierre Artur Birltner Dr. J. Ronald Johnson Bill Pinch Donald E. Booth Robert E. Kane Bill Piper Kirk A. Brelsford Dr. Peter C. Keller Charles Prosch Laurence' D. Broussard Prof. Paul 0. Knischlca John Ramsey Carter F. Buller Sam Koulish Alexander Rosen Jerry Call Dr. Neil D. Kravetz Royal Azel, Inc. Thomas Chatham Jeffrey J. Kurtzeman J. Royston Carl Chilstrom Dorothy J. Lapon Dr. Phillip M. Saclts Crystal Earth Bill Larson Irwin M. Schaeffer Crystal Optics Research, Inc. Richard Larson Bert Scism Richard T. Daniels Charles L. Leavitt, Jr. Dr. Kurt Servos' D. Sandra Dixon Andre Light Daniel Sheggrud Daniel J. Dulce Patricia H. Lineberry Dr. James Shigley' Gary Evangalides Michael Lohman David B. Sigler Everts Jewelers Annette ~Martucci Neal Spadaro Dr. and Mrs. Joseph Farrar John McVicltar Theodore F. Spall, Jr. Dr. Jaclt Fine Mr. and Mrs. Frank Melanson Theodore F. Spall, Sr. Mr. and Mrs. Si Frazier' Michael Menser Texoma Distributors Jeff Gendler Paul B. Merltel Robert Van Dyke Dr. James P. Gills Frank Miley Frank D. Walker' Kenneth E. Gordon Shin Minyano' W. B. Wewegama T. J. Gray Russell F. Morrison Raymond L. White Dr. E. J. Giibelin Allan C. Mulder Georgc Woolverton M. F. Guinn Dr. Kurt Nassau Judge Pearce Young Dr. William L. Harville John D. Newlon Dr. Arnold Zultow

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42 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 EDITOR Chuck Fryer GIA, Santa Monica CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Robert Crowningsh~eld LAB NOTES Gem Trade Laboratory, New York Karin N. Huwit Gem Trade Laboratory, Sanla Monica Robert E. Kane Gem Trade Laboratory, Los Angeles

ALEXANDRITE, Cat's-Eye terrnined that the stone had been "painted." Recently brought to the Santa Mon- Recently, a round pink diamond ica laboratory for identification was the fine 4.02-ct cat's-eye alexandrite weighing more than 3 ct (figure 3) was submitted to the New Yorlc lab- illustrated in figure 1 as it appears when viewed with incandescent oratory for a full quality analysis. The stone showed strong blue fluo- light. In addition to the very distinct rescence when exposed to long-wave change in color from red to blue- ultraviolet radiation, so it was not green (in natural or fluorescent light), surprising to see a distinct 4155 the transparency of this stone was "cape" line with the hand spectro- exceptional as a result of the high scope. When the stone was being clarity; the majority of the fine Figure 1. Cat's-eye alexandrite needles causing the chatoyancy were graded for clarity, however, we re- as seen in incandescent light, alized that the color was in fact due concentrated in a layer at the base 4.02 ct. to a coating-possibly an enamel. of the cabochon. Another interest- Using a technique developed years ing feature of this stone was the ago by Eunice Miles (whereby thc bluish appearance of the eye when stone is illuminated with both the viewed in fluorescent illumination. fluorescent overhead light of the microscope and diffused transmit- ted light created by placing a white DIAMOND tissue over the light well under- Cawed Diamond neath), some of the pavilion facets showed dark marginal lines paral- Very flat diamond crystals are a real leling the edges of the pavilion mains problem for diamond cutters, who and a few "craters" where the coat- frequently must sacrifice consider- ing was rejected, probably due to able weight to achieve anything ap- dirt. At 63 x magnification (figure 4), proximating proper proportions in a the coating could be seen readily on faceted stone or else must malce an the girdle. In all such cases, it is es- unsatisfactory shallow stone, a "fish- sential to examine the surface of the eye." One innovative solution seen Figure 2. Carved fish-shaped stone carefully to avoid overlooking in the New York laboratory was a diamond. The stone weighs the presence of a coating and inad- thin crystal that had been carved in 2.87 ct and measures 18.38 vertently pronouncing the color the shape of a fish (figure 2). The mm x 8.95 mm x 2.26 mm natural. natural surface characteristics of the thick. Figure 5 shows a beautiful 3.31- crystal even resemble the scaly ap- ct "salmon" pink, heart-shaped dia- pearance of a fish. One would as- mond, brought into the New Yorlc sume that in the case of this 2.87-ct Pink Diamonds lab, that the cutter says came off the stone, the weight retention was Some time ago in New York, we wheel as intense a pink as he had excellent. heard of an attractive pink diamond ever seen. The owners were over- that lost its color when the stone joyed when they saw the stone after ?)I983Gemological Institute of America was boiled in acid. Later it was de- it had been boiled out. When viewed

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 43 Figure 4. Pink coating on girdle of diamond shown in figure 3. Magnified 63 X.

:igure 3. Pink diamond, 3 ct. Figure 5. IJink heart-shaped diamond, 3.31 ct. EMERALD Magnified I0 x. through the table toward the shoul- Imitation Emerald ders of the stone, totally reflected Submitted to the Los Angeles labo- areas were actually red. Within a ratory for identification was the oratory and reported in the Summer few days, however, the red had dis- matched set of jewelry shown in fig- 1982 issue of Gems d Gemology, appeared and in its place was a more ure 6, which consists of a necklace, pages 102 and 103. Indications are common brownish pink. Boiled in a pair of earrings, and a combination that the treatment on this stone is acid, the stone temporarily regained ring and pendant. The client ex- some type of paint (perhaps a trans- some of its exciting red color, only plained that when the combination parent glass paint), although similar to lose it again in a few days. Later, ring and pendant was recently steam results have been obtained with the stone was heated to a much cleaned, the center stone lost a con- green cement or plastic. higher temperature in an alcohol siderable amount of color. Subse- flame; the red again returned, but quent testing showed that all of the Tubules in Emerald only temporarily. green stones were untreated natural Recently encountered in the New We are told that this behavior is emeralds with the exception of the Yorlz lab was a 1.57-ct flux-grown not unusual with yellow diamonds. center stone in the combination ring synthetic emerald that had all the Frequently stones appear intense and pendant, which proved to be a properties of a flux-grown syn- yellow while hot from the wheel but natural beryl that was coated with thetic-low refractive index and assume a more normal color when a green substance that imparted birefringence, low specific gravity, finished and offered for sale. This is most of the color to the stone. and red fluorescence to ultraviolet the first time such a color change in Examination of the treated stone radiation-but atypical inclusions naturally colored pink stones has under the microscope readily re- (figure 7). A few spicules somewhat been reported to us. vealed a green coating in most of the resembling those seen in hydro- We are reminded of another pink surface fractures and cavities. The thermal synthetic emeralds, though diamond, a magnificent 16-ct pear steam cleaning had apparently re- without the crystal caps on the ends, shape, which turned an ordinary moved the green surface treatment were present, but some inclusions brown following exposure to long- from most of the stone, leaving small were darker and more tubular. By and short-wave ultraviolet and then amounts only in these areas. coincidence, we received for testing X-radiation in rapid succession. When the stone was tested with at the same time a high-property Gentle warming in the light well of a cotton swab saturated with ace- natural emerald which also had sev- a Gemolite for a few minutes re- tone, a very noticeable green stain eral long tubules (see figure 8) as stored the pink color. A series of appeared on the swab. Also, the well as numerous needles with ran- small rough pink diamond crystals green coating could be flaked off very dom orientation seen near the girdle. were later exposed in the same man- easily with a sharp point such as the ner. Fewer than half of the 16 spec- pin end of a brush probe. In addition, imens responded to the irradiation the coating melted when a thermal FLUORITE AND and warming in the same way. reaction tester was used. ROSE QUARTZ NECKLACE Clearly, all pink diamonds do not This stone was treated in a man- respond alilte to irradiation and sub- ner very similar to that used on sev- The New Yorlz laboratory received sequent warming. eral stones seen recently in the lab- a neclzlace that was reminiscent of

44 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 pin to represent a "sham"-roclz leaf. Buff top-cut stones have a cabochon crown and a faceted pavilion.

OPAL Cat's-Eye Opal Not too long ago, we examined in the New ~orlz~laboratory a rough specimeil of banded, translucent, brownish to green material that we tentativelv identified as common opal, with no play of color. Later, we were allowed to examine and pho- tograph a 1.5-ct chatoyant orange- brown cabochon (figure 11)) said to have been cut from a clear band of this material. Testing by X-ray dif- I fraction in the Santa Monica lab es- tablished the presence of cristobal- ite. A cristobalite diffraction pattern superimposed on an amorphous baclzground indicates that the ma-

Figure 7. Tubriles in a synthetic emerald. Magnified 30 x.

Figure 6. The large stone (11.68 mm x 8.90 mm x 6.50 mm) in the Figure 8. Tubules in a natural combination ringlpendant at the center of this suite is coated emerald. Magnified 37 X. beryl; the other sknes are nnturnl emeralds. the pink and green grossularite gar- GARNET AND GLASS net strand pictured in the Summer DOUBLETS 1982 issue of Gems d Gemology. Figure 10 illustrates the first non-+-.- However, testing proved this one to faceted garnet-and-glass doublets consist of round pale green fluorite seen in our New Yorlz lab. They are beads alternating with rose quartz buff-topped, green, heart-shaped beads (figure 9). We were surprised stones with garnet cabochon tops I that there was no damage or cleav- and green glass pavilions set with a age evident in the fluorite beads. natural red spinel and diamond in a (

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS h GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 45 ing approximately 32 mm x 38 mm, seen recently in the New York lab and shown here in figure- 12. The fossil had been cleaned so carefully from its host rock that it could be definitely identified as the species Phacovs rana. Mounted with care, it could be successfully worn in jewelry. Other examples of the gemolog- ical use of fossilized organisms in- clude amber, the multi-colored fos- silized ammonites found principally in the Province of Alberta (Canada), petrified wood, and opal sometimes found replacing either animals or plants.

PEARLS Cultured Button Pearls Figure 9. Fluorite and rose quartz necklace. The beads are A 3%-inch (9 cm) long, antique- approximately 8 mm in diameter. appearing bar pin set with what seemed to be nine variously colored button pearls and two old-style-cut pear-shaped diamonds proved to the New York lab that appearances alone can be deceiving. The pearls, which resembled the American freshwater pearls seen in abundance 35 years ago, fluoresced to X-rays. The X- radiographs, too, suggested that most of the pearls were of natural origin; however, several showed centers that we associate with tissue-nucleated cultured pearls. Figure 13 shows one Figure 10. Pin set with three of each type. buff-topgarnet and glass Our client kindly volunteered to doublets as well as a natural submit more than 100 half-drilled red spinel and a diamond. loose button pearls from which we were able to select buttons to match Magnified 10 X. Figure 11. Cat's-eye opal, the colors of those on the bar pin approximately 1.5 ct. (figure 14).X-rays of the loose pearls terial is opal. Thls is the first cat's- showed freshwater tissue-nucleated eye opal of this type seen by the lab. several fractures. Such stones must cultured origin. We have yet to learn be examined very carefully before by what process these symmetrical Treated Opal the color is pronounced natural. button pearls, with such flat un- A section of oolitic opal is shown on worked bases (as shown by the pearls page 104 of the Summer 1982 issue on the left side of figure 14)) could of Gems e3 Gemology. It is very PALEONTOLOGICAL be cultivated. similar in appearance to a dyed GEMOLOGY (sugar-treated?]oolitic opal seen re- Pearl Mysteries ce*tly in New York. Each of the Aficionados of fossils will appreci- A hank of more than 30 strands of round dots of the oolitic structure ate the perfection of the calcareous small, variously colored, very ba- had absorbed the black dye, as had replacement of a trilobite, measur- roque pearls came into the New York

46 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 laboratory recently (see figure 15). They are unlike any we have ever seen here before. The darker-colored pearls fluoresced when exposed to long-wave ultraviolet radiation, sug- gesting natural color, saltwater ori- gin. Whether the pearls are natural sac pearls or, as their irregularity suggests, some form of blister pearl, l is not known to us. The possibility that they are the result of some type of cultivation exists. We would wel- come information from our readers. Some months ago, at the New York laboratory, we were asked to identify a number of white button I pearls set in a platinum and dla- Figure 14. Loose freshwater tissue-nucleated cultured pearls mond necklace. X-ray fluorescence arranged to show the various colors and the flat, r~nworkeddrilled indicated freshwater origin and the bases. appearance and X-radiograph of the pearls indicated that they were natural. When the buttons were removed from their settings and X- rayed, however, the faint but char- acteristic central voids of tissue- nucleated freshwater cultured pearls appeared on the radiograph.

32 x 38 rnm, suitable for Figure 15. A hank of small baroque pearls (largest is nhout 3 mm). mounting in jewelery.

Figure 13. X-radiograph This same group of button pearls, do not know, since we do not know showing the structure ranging up to 9.5 mm in diameter, the method of cultivation of either associated with a natural is shown backside up in figure 16. type. pearl (left) and a tissue- Note that half of them have a pe- The fact that we have only re- nucleated cilltrlred pearl (right). culiar, unnatural "balloon tire" or cently been shown such symmetri- "doughnut" appearance in contrast cal freshwater tissue-nucleated but- to the flat baclzs of the drill-hole side ton shapes in quantity suggests that of the multicolored small buttons they are grown purposefully and are shown in figure 14. This, of course, not, so to speak, accidental. On a could not be seen in the mounted short visit to pearl farms on Lalze pearls. Why there is a difference, we Biwa in Japan, the New Yorlz Lab

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 47 absorption lines visible in the spec- troscope, thus eliminating the pos- sibility of apatite. Nor did the stone show any reaction to ultraviolet radiation. The indications were that the material was quartz. Using X-ray diffraction methods, we were able to prove conclusively that the material was indeed quartz. This was cer- Pigure 16. Drilled tissue- tainly one of the nicest quartz cat's- nucleated cultured button eyes this laboratory has ever en- pearls viewed backside up. countered. The weight estimation formula suggested that the stone Figure 18. Reflection from the weighs approximately 19 ct. separation plane of a ruby and Notes editor saw nothing that would synthetic ruby assembled indicate a process for producing stone. Magnified 10 X. such consistently well-shaped buttons. Possibly they are of Chinese or Ten- RUBY AND SYNTHETIC RUBY nessee River origin. Again, we would ASSEMBLED STONE of a synthetic stone that owes its - coloring to cobalt rather than iron. welcome information from knowl- Figure 18 shows the reflection from edgeable readers. the cement joining the portions of a 2.5-ct, very thin, natural and syn- thetic ruby doublet submitted to our UNCLASSIFIED ODDITIES New York lab for identification. Had QUARTZ, A Rare Cat's-Eye Back in the Summer 1971 issue of the separation plane been less ob- ' ed A translucent, oval, brownish green. vious, the deception might have been Gems Gemology, we published a cat's-eye cabochon set in a ring was more successful. Since most stones picture of an unusual broken cabo- received in the Santa Monica labo- of this type consist of nonfluorescent chon that proved to be opal. We said ratory for identification and weight . Australian greenish to blue sapphire then that "we have never seen any- estimation. Figure 17 shows this at- crowns cemented to strongly flu- thing even closely resembling this tractive stone, which closely resem- orescent synthetic ruby pavilions, material." Several months ago, one bled a fine cat's-eye chrysoberyl. The exposure to ultraviolet radiation is of our Canadian readers with a long refractive index, taken by the spot usually a quick means of detection. memory sent us an item she thought method, was 1.54 or 1.55 with The top and bottom of this stone resembled the one in the photograph weak birefringence. The optic figure fluoresced almost equally. Inclu- in that old back issue. could not be obtained because of the sions in the natural section could be The item shown in figure 20, as many parallel tube-like inclusions seen easily and the stone might have received in Santa Monica, appeared throughout the stone which caused been accepted as natural without the chatoyancy. There were no question if examined carelessly. Pigure 19. Color-change natural spinel, 12.45 ct, shown Pigure 17. Cat's-eye quartz SPINEL, with Color Change- in incandescent light. ring, approximately 19 c t. The Santa Monica lab had the op- portunity to examine a most un- usual natural spinel. The 12.45-ct oval mixed cut displayed a change of color from dark blue in daylight to purplish blue in incandescent light (figure 19). The most remarkable characteristic was its absorption spec- trum. In addition to the usual iron lines, there were absorption bands centered at 5400 A, 5800 A, and 6300 A. These bands are generally I present in the absorption spectrum

48 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 igin, we have no idea what creature created it, or how it was formed. Those of us in the Santa Monica lab must confess, once again, that "we have never seen anything even closely resembling this material."

t..

Errata: On page 230 of the Winter Figure 20. Broken concretion 1982 issue of Gems & Gemology, the absorption spectra .for .parisite showing a bead-like core I approximately 13 mm in and siderite we].; inadvertently re- diameter. Figure 21. Striated structure of versed in printing. The spectruin in the sclrface of the bead-like figure 8 is actually parisite; that core shown in figure 20. shown in figure 9 is siderite. to be a broken concretion of some Magnified 63 x. sort measuringapproximately 13 mm in diameter. The thin outer covering structure of the surface of this inner was light beige in color, with a rough bead. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS texture to it. The concentric layers A hot-point test, judiciously ap- Andrew Quinlan, from the New York labo- inward were translucent and light plied, evoked an odor of burning hair, ratory, supplied the photos for figures 2 - brown in color, and surrounded the indicating an organic origin. Our 5, 7- 16, and 18. Shane McClure, from the Los Angeles lab, is responsible for figure semitransparent, nearly spherical, reader found the object in a can of 6. Chuck Fryer supplied the photos for fig- bead-lilte core. Figure 21, talten at tuna fish purchased as pet food. Al- ures 20 and 21, and Tino Harnmid pro- 63x, shows the very finely striated though we ltnow it is of organic or- vided the photos for figures 1, 17, and 19.

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The highlights of gemology in 1982-in over 250 Whether you're a hobbyist or a professional, we beautifully illustrated pages. think you'll find the information indispensable and the full-color photography unequalled. Send $19.50 issues Of GEMS The complete set Of four today ($22.50 outside the US., surface mail), and we & GEMOLOGY touches on virtually every major issue will ship your set immediately.The GIA Alumni in gemology today. The identification of jade Association discount will be honored. Also, a 10% simulants . . . the identification of artificial color in discount will be given for orders of three or more diamonds. The heat treatment of corundum: rubies sets sent to a single address. and blue sapphires in Bangkok, "golden" yellow sapphires in Chanthaburi. Major gem localities, old Already a subscriber? Chances are some of your and new: Sri Lanka, Thailand, Pakistan. New issues have had a lot of wear. Why not order a brand synthetics, new microscope techniques, new methods new, carefully wrapped set for your bookshelf? Or for for cutting diamonds, new information on color- a friend? To order your sets, please contact: change stones. And much, much more. Sally Thomas, The comprehensive index at the end of the GEMS & GEMOLOGY, volume leads you quickly and easily both to sought- 1660 Stewart Street, after articles and to the dozens of items carried in the Santa Monica, CA 90404. much-acclaimed Lab Notes section. Tel. (213) 829-2991, X 251. And what we don't cover in our features, we tell Please allow 4 to 6 weeks for delivery in the U.S., you about in the Gemological Abstracts, Book Canada, and Mexico; 8 to 10 weeks for delivery Reviews, and Gem News sections of every issue. elsewhere.

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 49 GEMOLOGICAL ABSTRACTS

Dona M. Dirlam, Editor

REVIEW BOARD Gary S. Hill Gary A. Roskin GIA, Santa Monica Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Los Angeles Miriam K. Cybul Jill M. Hobbs Michael L. Ross GIA, New York GIA, Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica Stephanie L. Dillon Steven C. Hofer Andrea L. Saito GIA, Santa Monica Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica Bob F. Effler Karin N. Hurw~t James E. Shigley GIA, Santa Monica Gem Trade Lab, Inc , GIA, Santa Monica Joseph 0.Gill Santa Monica Frances Smith Gill & Shortell Ltd., San Francisco Noel P. Kr~eger Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Los Angeles Caroline K. Goldberg GIA, Santa Monica Carol M. Stockton GIA, Santa Monica Ernest R. Lalonde GIA, Santa Monica Joseph P. Graf GIA, Santa Monica Barbara J. Taylor Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Shane F. McClure Asian Institute of Gemmological Los Angeles Gem Trade Lab, Inc , Los Angeles Sciences, Los Angeles Fred L. ,Gray Mark W. Patterson Evelyn Tucker

GIA, Santa Monica f GIA, New York Anchorage, Alaska Elizabeth R. Hardy M~chaelP. Roach Kerry J. Werner GIA, New York Andin International New York GIA, Santa Monica

COLORED STONES these inclusions are rutile (TiO,), but their small size Asterism in Sri Lankan corundum. Th. G. Sahama, in most corundums has usually precluded detailed Scf~weizerischeMmerdogische und Petrographische study. This article presents further data on the nature Mitteilungen, Vol. 62, 1982, pp. 15-20. of these rutile needles as they occur in a heavily in- cluded bluish corundum crystal from the Elahera area The occurrence of asterism, or star effect, in some gem- of Sri Lanka. quality corundum has been ltnown since antiquity. Two possible modes of origin have been suggested This optical phenomenon is due to light reflecting from for these rutile needles in corundum: (1)exsolution of a precipitate of needle-lilte inclusions in a regular ar- the rutile from a pre-existing corundum-rutile solid- rangement in the basal (0001) plane of the corundum solution phase with falling temperature, and (2)mutual host crystal. It has been recognized for some time that crystallization of both corundum and rutile in a regular arrangement. The latter explanation may be appropri- ate for the heavily included ciystal examined in this study, but the evidence is not wholly conclusive. This section is designed lo prov~deas complete a record as possible of the recent literature on gems and IES gemology Articles are selected for abstracting solely at [he d~scretionof the section editor and her reviewers Ferroaxinite-another new gem from Sri Lanka. H. A. and space :im~lationsmay require that we include only Hanni and 1M. Gunawardene, loirrnal of Gernmol- those art~cles[hat w~llbe of greatest interest to our readership ogy, Vol. 18, No. 1, 1982, pp. 20-27. Inquiries for reprints of art~clesabstracted must be The title of this article may be somewhat misleading addressed to the author or piiblisher of the original because ferroaxinite is not a newly discovered gem- malerial stone. What is new is its cliscovery in Sri Lanlta. Ax- The reviewer of each article 1s identified by h~sor her iilite is a rather com~lexcalcium aluminum borosili- init~alsat the end of each abstract Guest reviewers are cate in which the calciuin is frequently partially identified by their full names replaced by iron, manganese, and inagnesiuin. The rel- ' 1983 Gemological lnstiliite of America ative content of these elements can vary considerably.

50 Gemological Abstracts GEMS 8: GElMOLOGY Spring 1983 Depending on which element is dominant, three end- amount of light transmitted by the stone] cover the member compositions can be described: ferroaxinite, other. manganaxinite, and magnesioaxinite. The ferroaxin- The categories for clarity are flawless, nearly flaw- ite found in Sri Lanlta has a very high iron content less, lightly included, moderately included, very in- which could be responsible for its specific gravity ex- cluded, and highly included. Unfortunately, the au- ceeding the recorded range for this material. The au- thors do not adequately describe what distinguishes thors hypothesize that the source of this material is in one category from the next. For example, the color of the southern part of the island, most probably the Tis- inclusions as it affects clarity is only discussed for the samaharama district, where general conditions are con- flawless and nearly flawless categories. ducive to the formation of axinite. The form and craftsmanship section of the article The article includes three tables listing the mea- depicts the most desirable cabochon form, but docs not sured properties of the sample stones and three pho- describe a system for evaluating the shape of cabo- tomicrographs of inclusions to illustrate the similarity chons. In short, the article presents only a discussion of inclusions in Sri Lanltan stones to those found in of, rather than a system for, the quality grading of green Brazilian material. These consist mainly of liquid jadeite. IMH feathers with two-phase fillings reminiscent of inclu- sions in tourmaline and topaz. SFM The ruby rush. I. A. Mumme, Australian Lapidary Magazine, OctoberlNovember, 198 1, pp. 13- 18. Hornbill ivory. G. Brown and A. J. Moule, lournal of In 1886, jewelers and mineralogists in Adelaide, Aus- Gemmology, Vol. 18, No. 1, 1982, pp. 8-19. tralia, incorrectly identified as rubies some red genl Brown and Moule make an important contribution to crystals discovered by David Lindsay on a surveying the study of the organic substance known as hornbill expedition near the Harts Mountain Range. From that ivory. Although the clear, concise description of horn- moment, the great ruby rush was on. The news spread bill ivory, the derivations of its various names, and the quickly, and before too long intense mining operations short synopsis of its use are noteworthy, the chief con- were being carried out. Bad news for all, though, came tribution of the article is in the description of the ap- some months later from England: the red gemstones pearance of this material under the microscope. Lindsay had uncovered were not rubies, but garnets. The authors examined blocks of hornbill in three I11 a fascinating, but brief, historic account of the directions: vertically along the long axis of the beak Great Ruby Rush of 1886, I. A. Mumme lets us ex- (longitudinal section), vertically across the beak (cross amine those hard times as miners searched in vain for section), and horizontally. Six photographs illustrate rubies only to find out later that the gemstones were their research, including the arrangement and appear- garnets. Although no rubies were ever uncovered, min- ance of pigment granules in the hornbill casque. Thus, ing in the area continued for some years as gold and this article provides data that are both interesting and other minerals were found. Even today, amateur gem valuable for identifying hornbill ivory. IMH hunters keep Adelaide jewelers busy identifying those famous red crystals. GAR Quality grading of jadeite. D. Healey and R. M. Yu, Lapidary lournal, Vol. 36, 1983, pp. 1670-1674. Star quartz asterism caused by sillimanite. C. F. Drs. Healey and Yu discuss the factors involved in the Woensdregt, M. Weibel, and R. Wessicken, quality analysis of green jadeite. Their discussion iden- Schweizerische Mineralogische und Petrogra- tifies all key factors, but fails to place them into a sys- phische Mitteilungen, Vol. 60, 1980, pp. 129-1 32. tematic grading scheme. The evaluation factors are: The asterism or "star" effect that results from the scat- color, texture and transparency, clarity, and form and tering of light by tiny, needle-like inclusions is known craftsmanship. in many gem minerals. Asteriated corundum provides, The authors deal solely with green jadeite, colored perhaps, the best example; here, the acicular inclusions by chromium. Using the Munsell Book of Color, they have been shown to be the mineral rutile. In this ar- state that the most desirable green jadeite is 2.5G ticle, the authors report a new occurrence of asteriated 4.511 1. Color mottling is addressed only indirectly. quartz from Sri Lanlta in which the needle inclusions Texture and transparency are grouped together next. were found, surprisingly, to be sillimanite (Al,SiO,). However, the discussion concentrates on transparency, This translucent, white variety of star quartz is from which is to be determined by texture, color, and per- the Niriella area near Ratnapura. The needle inclusions fection. Healey and Yu chose incongruent terms for in this material are arranged parallel to the (0001)plane classifying jadeites of differing transparency. From best of quartz in three sets which intersect at a 60" angle. to worst, pieces would be categorized as glassy, icy, The identification of sillimanite was made by both coarse fibrous, and challty. To judge transparency, the qualitative X-ray fluorescence microanalysis and trans- authors recommend directing diffused white light onto mission electron microscopy methods. The sillimanite a metal plate with holes in which a stone covers one needles are elongate along their c crystallographic axis hole and neutral density filters (selected to match the and average about 20 nm in thickness. In the (0001)

Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 51 plane, the [001] direction of sillimanite is parallel to territory on Borneo Island. One of 11 staff members on the [loo] direction of quartz. The star quartz from this the tour, Maeda describes the locality, transportation, area occurs in sillimanite-bearing metamorphic rocl

52 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 amenable to systematic analysis and presents certain straddle the Burma-Thailand border, guided the author observations concerning this type of diamond occur- through this extremely lawless rcgion. At first hand, rence. Nordland observed the scene at an SSA-controlled vil- The hardness, structural stability, and chemical in- lage where the insurgents levy "duty" on the gems and ertness of diamond all suggest that once crystals are opium smuggled through their territory. After the stones released from their priinary source rock they should are registered at the SSA customs hut, the smugglers tend to persist in the sedimentary record and thus be cross the border into Thailand where the stones are subject to transport by fluvial and marine processes. sold in the presence of an SSA agent. He then escorts Diamonds originating in rather restricted source areas the seller back into Burma to pay the duty. can be transported and distributed across regions of Nordland's description of the open-air gem markets tens of thousands of square lzilometers. During trans- and the gun-toting miners and dealers seems lilze a port, they suffer abrasion and breakage, which lead to con~binationof the Oriental bazaar and the American the attrition of the larger crystals. From a study of dis- Old West. The article's gemological content is that of tribution patterns, the author demonstrates how dia- a layman writing for laymen. Eleven photos, nine of monds are sorted by size, shape, and quality during them in color, plus a map, illustrate this worthwhile downstream transport. With greater transport there is article. RFE a reduction in size and a complementary increase in quality in a diamond population as the poorer quality diamonds are destroyed. INSTRUMENTS AND TECHNIQUES These observed effects are of considerable relevance Distinctioi~of natural and synthetic rubies by ultravi- to the diamond industry, because they allow predic- olet spectrophotometry. G. Bosshart, Iozrrnal of tions to be made that can serve as the basis of explo- Gemn~ology,Vol. 18, No. 2, 1982, pp. 145-160. ration for new diamond occurrences at primary sources The author analyzed the absorption spectra of 94 nat- as well as alluvial deposits. IES ural and 46 synthetic rubies using a spectrophotometer. The natural stones studied were from Burma, Sri Lanlta, GEM LOCALITIES Kenya, Tanzania, Thailand, Paltistan, Can~bodia,Bra- zil, and Australia; the synthetic stones were from pro- Gem quality gahnite from Nigeria. B. Jaclzson, Iournal ductions by Verneuil, Chatham, Kashan, and Knischlza of Gemmology, Vol. 18, No. 4, 1982, pp. 265-276. processes. Jackson describes a new locality for gem-quality gahn- The author compares the spectra of the various sam- ite (ZnA120,),a species within the spinel mineral group. ples, focusing on the center position, width, and profile Octahedral crystals of cuttable size (up to 1 cm in di- of the absorption minima in the ultraviolet (UV) re- ameter) occur in a complex pegmatite near the town of gion. The distribution of these data is presented on a Jemaa, Nigeria. This material is moderately abundant graph that separates into natural and synthetic rubies. at this locality, but the full extent of the pegmatite de- The author concludes that since there is no overlap of posit is not currently known. The author discusses the the two populations, this is a valid method for sepa- chemistry and properties of gahnite from this area. It rating rubies. Therefore, in instances where chemistry, is interesting to note that although no change of color fluorescence, inclusions, or other indicators are not was found in material exposed to X-rays, a distinct conclusive, the author recommends a thorough UV change from blue to green did occur when the material investigation. SCH was heated in an oxidizing atmosphere above 1000°C Energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry: A non-destruc- for one hour. This change is interpreted as resulting tive tool in gemmology. W. B. Stern and H. A. from the oxidation of the small amount of iron present Hanni, Io~~rnalof Gemmology, Vol. 18, No. 4, in the gahnite. 1982, pp. 285-296. A majority of the gahnite crystals are rich in inclu- sions; columbite, hematite, zircon, mica, and a trans- One of the most promising of the various new analyt- parent mineral thought to be beryl are among those ical techniques being used to solve gemological prob- identified thus far. Two-phase inclusions and other lems appears to be X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy types of negative crystals are also abundant. Pho- (XKF).A sample is exposed to a beam of primary X-rays, tographs and further details of the inclusions are which results in each of the chemical elements in the provided. IEs sample giving off secondary X-rays, or "fluorescing." These secondarv X-ravs can be described in terms either On the treacherous trail to the rare ruby red. K.Nord- of their wavelengths or their energy, thus leading to land, Asia, Vol. 5, No. 3, 1982, pp. 34-41, 54-55. two principally different spectroscopic applications. In Rod Nordland, the Asian correspondent for the Phila- conventional wavelength-dispersive (WDS) XRF, the delphia Inquirer, recounts his adventures in the noto- secondary X-rays are scattered by wavelength by an ap- rious Golden Triangle. Members of an insurgent group propriate medium (a crystal of some substance) and are known as the Shan State Army (SSA),whose activities detected sequentially by a movable goniometer. In en-

Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Sprlng 1983 53 ergy-dispersive (EDS) XRF, the secondary X-rays are becomes incandescent and radiates energy in the form separated by a detector into distinct energy levels si- of both heat and light. multaneously. Since the dispersing power of a detector Luminescence is the general term used to describe in an EDS system is more limited than that of a WDS an energy-release phenomenon taking place at temper- analyzing crystal, special computer programs are needed atures below 550°C, where a material absorbs one form to refine the X-ray energy spectrum produced by the of energy and then re-emits this energy in the form of sample. visible light. A number of external sources for this ab- XRF methods have great potential usefulness in sorbed energy are recognized. In thermoluminescence, gemology in that they provide a rapid and nondestruc- the emission of visible light is due to heating. This ar- tive means of chemically analyzing gem materials. The ticle reports preliminary results from a study in which inherent features of the EDS-XRF configuration would a single crystal of elbaite tourmaline was gradually appear to make it the more applicable of the two sys- heated from 50°C to 475°C. The authors mesent ther- tems to gemology. The authors of this article demon- moluminescence spectra as well as emission spectra for strate the value of this technique by illustrating the the sample taken before and after it was exposed to X-ray energy spectra of natural and synthetic ruby, X-radiation, which presumably also produced some emerald, and alexandrite, and also several samples of color change in the crystal. coral. They discuss how differences in the detected ele- Unfortunately, the authors offer little in the way of ments in the samples give some indication of the explanation of these observed changes in either the provenance of these gem materials. They suggest that thermoluminescence or emission s~ectrumof elbaite. the XRF method will be employed on a widespread ba- They do indicate that further studies are in progress to sis in the future for gemstone identification. IES understand this behavior. IES

Optical absorption and electron spin resonance in blue and green natural beryl. A. R. Blalc, S. Isotani, and JEWELRY ARTS S. Watanabe, Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, The Chester Be'atty collection of Chinese carved rhi- Vol. 8, 1982, pp. 161 -166. noceros horn cups. J. Chapman, Arts of Asia, Vol. Some green beryl is known to change to blue on heat- 12, NO. 3, 1982, pp. 73-83. ing. The authors of this article report spectroscopic On his death in 1968, Sir Alfred Chester Beatty left his data on two gem beryls from Brazil. that display this collection of Oriental art, one of the finest ever assem- color-change behavior. bled by a Western co~ledtor,to the people of Ireland. The crystal structure of beryl consists of silicate tet- Chapman, who is the Far Eastern curator of the Beatty rahedra in six-membered rings which are arranged to Library and Gallery of Oriental Art in Dublin, Ireland, form long, open channels. These rings are further linlzed describes one group, a unique collection of 200 rhinoc- by Be2+ and A13+ ions. Impurity constituents can sub- eros horn cups. stitute for these ions, can be located interstitially be- The author praises Beatty's remarkable ability to tween them, or can occur within the open channels. select quality pieces as he discusses cups from the early Water molecules occurring in the channels are oriented 12th to the late 19th centuries. Photographs of 28 carved either perpendicular (type I) or parallel (typc 11) to the horns (seven in color) are keyed to the text, illustrating direction of a channel. Infrared spectra indicate that the different forms as well as motifs used by the Chinese type I water is predominant in blue beryl, whereas type carvers. Chapman concludes by reminding us how rare II water is found in green beryl. The green-to-blue color these exquisite carvings are, even in good collections change noted during heating results from a reduction of Chnese decorative arts. KI w in valence state of the trace amounts of impurity iron. Editor's Note: Chapman has another article on an un- This article illustrates some of the methods of in- usual rhinoceros cup in the August 1982 issue of vestigation used and types of data that are needed to Connoisseur. understand the causes of color in gem minerals and the behavior of these minerals in response to treatment Enamelling on gold: A historical perspective. D. Buck- processes. IES ton, Gold Bulletin, Vol. 15, No. 3, 1982, pp. 101- 109. - Thermolu~ninescence in elbaite. T. Calderon-Garcia For more than 3,500 years, gold has been the preferred and R. Coy-Y11, Iorlrnal of Gemmology, Vol. 18, base metal for enameling. Because of its properties and No. 3, 1982, pp. 21 7-221. its compatibility with glass, gold does not require the Any material with a temperature above that of absolute special preparations needed with other metals. zero (-273°C) radiates energy as a result of the thermal In this article, Buckton describes the three ways vibrations of its constituent atoms. At temperatures enamels are applied to metals, touching on how eco- less than 550"C, this radiation of energy occurs chiefly nomics have shaped the historical development of as heat; whereas above this temperature, the material enamel from a poor man's substitute to a desirable dec-

54 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 orative element. While discussing the various tech- point the serious jewelry historian but not necessarily niques, their origin and execution, Buclcton develops distract the general reader. Even though the handsome, the historical aspect of his theme with dates and places if nonrepresentative, photographs do much to rescue of introduction and the subsequent diffusion of artistic the piece, the author presents what amounts to a re- influence. These events are not discussed chronologi- write of her previous work on the subject, which ap- cally, however, and it takes concentration by the reader peared in Retail Jeweller in 1979. Her readers have to put the picture into perspective. come to expect something fresher from this prolific and From this article, richly illustrated with photo- exuberant writer. Neil Letson graphs of pieces from museums worldwide, the reader discovers that techniques have not changed greatly and St. George triumphant. B. Livie, Connoisseur, Vol. 212, that this art form is now and will be in the future "an NO. 850, 1982, pp. 67-70. attractive medium for artists and craftsmen." This article focuses some long overdue attention on a Archie V. Curtis historical obiet d'art that is little Icnown outside of Germany. l he St. George reliquary in the treasure Netsuke: the wondrous toggle. S. O'Neill Dorn, Mu- room of the Munich Residenz is a dazzling summation seum, Vol. 3, No. 1, 1982, pp. 30, 32-33. of late 16th-century goldsmithing, enameling, and lap- Sylvia Dorn has paclced a tremendous amount of in- idary arts. Bruce Livie, a Munich gallery owner and art formation about netsuke into this article. It is partic- historian, devotes most of his article to the historical ularly valuable to the collector because she traces the background of this piece. A full-page color photo, plus origin of the netsuke, its history as a collector's item, four small closeups of various details, supplement the and the successive increases in price since netsukes verbal description. became popular. The gold equestrian figure of St. George slaying the Although people have been collecting netsukes since dragon was commissioned by Duke Wilhelm V of Ba- they were invented, netsukes didn't really catch on as varia in 1586. Supporting this figure and housing the an investment until the late 1960s. alleged relic of the saint is an elaborate silver gilt base, In the 1890s, the average cost of a netsuke was un- which was commissioned by Wilhelm's successor and der one dollar. By the 1950s, most netsukes sold for less finally completed in 1641. The figure and base stand 50 than a hundred dollars outside of Japan. Within the cm (about 20 inches) high and are richly decorated with country,, . the netsuke still counted for little. Earlv last pearls, rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and enameling. year, however, a collector paid a record auction price Sections of the composition include the horse carved of $78,000 for a single piece. from brown and white chalcedony, and a rock crystal Dorn concludes with a discussion of the Dresent sword brandished by the armored figure of St. George. production of netsulce and with some advice for today's Of particular gemological interest is Livie's brief in- collector. She feels that those who seek what has be- ventory of the numerous gemstones used in this work. come known as best-requiring a signature, rarity, sub- Readers fascinated by the human and historical ele- ject, and pedigree-are competing for comparatively ments behind precious objects will find' this article few pieces. Yet there are countless numbers of inter- worthwhile. Mr. Livie shows how this reliquary re- esting" netsuke outside the mainstream market that flects the aesthetics of the German courts in the early offer exciting possibilities for collections based on new baroque era as well as the religious and political fervor materials, subjects, and techniques. ET of that time. BFE Pique jewelry. V. Becker, Art d Antiques, Vol. 5, No. Soul in jade. D. DeVoss, Connoisseur, Vol. 213, No. 6, 1982, pp. 42-45. 851, 1983, pp. 86-91. PiquC work was an exacting and difficult technique of In publishing David DeVossls article on Thailand's inlaying gold or silver on tortoiseshell and ivory. Its priceless "Emerald Buddha," Connoisseur presents what application to jewelry developed, flourished, and dis- is probably the first photograph printed in the West of appeared in the Victorian eraj according to the author, that country's most sacred religious talisman. It is a though, it is currently gaining 20th century admirers. 2,000-year-old statue of Buddha, so venerated that only While this may be true as regards piquC work as a col- the reigning king may touch it, yet seen by thousands lectible, the extreme difficulty of the technique makes each day who conre to worship at its golden shrine. it unlikely that there will ever be a revival of this Inaccurately termed "emerald," the statue is ac- charming minor art form. tually a water-smooth carving, 19 in. wide and 26 in. The author correctly gives credit to the definitive high (48 cm x 66 cm) of a "rare jade found only in Si- series of articles on piqd work written with authority beria and along the China-Burma border." Legend dates and style by the passionate collector Major Herbert C. the strangely luminiscent figure to about 493 B.C., and Dent and published in the Connoisseur in 1920. Since its tumultuous history and awesome religious signifi- there is, sadly, nothing new on the subject, an element cance far outweigh its enormous intrinsic value. of repetition creeps into the present article to disap- Last year the city of Bangkok and its hundreds of

Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 55 Buddhist shrines and temples underwent a massive res- changes the pattern of tiny voice tremors, a phenom- toration in connection with celebrations marlting the enon that is recorded on the audio tape and can be de- bicentennial of the present royal dynasty. Central focus tected when charted on paper by the PSE instrument. of the project was the $10 million refurbishing of the After comparing PSE and the polygraph tests, and Grand Palace and the Royal Chapel which houses the then highlighting the conflict between the two indus- "Emerald Buddha." tries, the author concludes that the most important While the description of the statue itself leaves aspects of the polygraph are present in PSE, that is, the some technical gemological cluestions unanswered, the fear of facing the machine and the necessity of having article and the dazzling photographs add significantly a competent examiner. to a limited body of information on this unique jeweled Thomas concludes with a discussion of the paper- object. Neil Letson and-pencil tests, which are less expensive than either the polygraph or PSE. She reports specifically on the RETAILING worlzing principles behind, as well as the effectiveness The care and maintenance of gems. F. C. Bonham, and rating systems of, two well-ltnown written tests: PreciozlStones Newsletter, Vol. 5, No. 7, 1982, pp. the Stanton Survey and the Reid Report. A LS 14-17. Mr. Bonham provides simple, easy-to-follow guidelines SYNTHETICS to the basic care and maintenance of fine gems. He ar- New frontiers in diamond synthesis. J. Collings, Op- gues that the value, as well as the beauty, of the stone tima, Vol. 30, No. 2, 198 1, pp. 102-109. may be maintained and enjoyed through intelligent Although the title suggests an article on synthesis, this care and wear. As a useful guide when cleaning stones, Mr. Bon- is actually a history of diamond use other than as a ham provides a gem maintenance chart. This guide in- gemstone. Dianlonds have served as engraving tools cludes the Bonham Durability Scale, whereby the au- since 350 B.C. (India)and as cutting tools and abrasives thor has assigned each stone an overall durability value for nephrite since slightly later [China).Diamonds had based on. the Mohs hardness scale an# a predetermined these limited applications until modern times, when chemical stability value. Depending on a gem's indi- more sophisticated techniques were applied to the pro- vidual properties, stones with a "Bonham Durability" duction of inetal alloys, thus requiring the attributes of diamond to work them. Collings gives a fascinating rating 0,f 7.5 or higher may be washed in an ammonia solution. Less durable stones should be cleaned with account of the history of this interrelationship. In the warm water and a mild soap. 1930s the industrial use of diamonds was further stim- Steam and ultrasonic cleaners should be used only ulated by armament production, which coi~tinued through World War 11. by professional jewelers. Stones already damaged or with the potential for cleavage may be harmed further In 1947 DeBeers, under the leadership of Sir Ernest if such cleaners are used improperly. Also, the mount- Oppenheimer, established the Diamond Research Lab- ing should provide protection responsive to the gem's oratory to study the physical properties of diamonds, individual nature. Fragile stones should sit low in the investigate better retrieval methods, and develop new mounting in order to avoid blows from direct contact. applications for diamond tools as well as support re- Gems highlighted for additional consideration in- search at the university level. Allmana Svenslta Elec- clude emeralds, opals, and pearls. Chemically sensitive trislza Alttiebolaget (ASEA) reported the first synthetic geins and those with perfect cleavage also require extra diamond production in 1953, and the General Electric protection. Coinpany announced a successful synthesis in 1955. As As a gemologist, Bonhain stresses the inlportance the denland for industrial diamonds grew, the number of understanding a gem's physical properties before of natural diainonds was insufficient and large-scale proper care can be applied. The article outlines a basic production of synthetics resulted. DeBeers Industrial common-sense approach to the maintenance of gems. Diamond Division eventually obtained their own man- ufacturing facility [Debid]. World demand is now esti- ER H mated at 110 million carats annually; almost 90% of Employee screening. Part 11, an industry under seige. this is satisfied by synthetic products, largely produced 1M. E. Thomas, Goldsmitl~,Vol. 161, No. 7, 1982, by General Electric, Debid, and Eastern Bloc countries. pp. 27-29. Although there has been a steady 10% growth in de- This second of two articles on employee screening dis- inand annually, competition has resulted in extremely cusses psychological stress evaluation (PSE)and paper- low selling prices for many of the easily produced par- and-pencil honesty questionnaires. ticles. New composite materials such as cubic boron The worlzing principle behind PSE involves the nitride, amber boron nitride, syndite, and amborite are change in voice frequencies under psychological stress; ~neetingpresent industrial needs. The possibility of in stressful periods, the autonomic nervous system, developing similar desirable materials, not now essen- rather than the central nervods system, suppresses and tial, is far from being fully explored. ERL

56 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 DIAMOND CUTTING, ested in becoming as lznowledgeable 2nd Edition as possible in this field. By Basil Watermeyer, 404pp., illus., GARY WEISSBROT published by Centa~lr,South Africa, BOOK M. Weissbrot d Son 1982. US$27.50* Los Angeles, CA The second edition of Basil Water- meyer's Diamond Cutting, like the REVIEWS JEWELRY ON DISPLAY, first edition published in 1980, is a unique book. In all my reading on ~MichaelRoss, Editor 2nd Ed. and about the diamond trade, there By Mariann Coutchie, 87 pp., illus., has always been an emphasis on the published by Signs of the Times, lore of the trade and a modicum of tually sitting at the cutting bench. Cincinnati, OH, 1982. US16.95 * information on the actual process- It is at this point not just a basic Competition for consumers' dollars ing of the stones. At best, a thor- primer but more a detailed manual, and current econon~icconditions oughly written, encyclopedic account giving step-by-step instructions for have made training an absolute must of the diamond industry would have every phase of cutting-from the for the jewelry retailer and whole- a short, usually very outdated chap- decisions regarding what shape to saler alilze. To excel in today's com- ter on design and cutting. Water- cut, right down to the finer ad- petitive market, jewelers must be meyer's book handily takes care of vanced points of polishing. One ex- up-to-date on new simulants and the lack of written material on this ainple of this is Watermeyer's ex- treatments, but they should also heretofore little unclerstood and ex- cellent advice that a small girdle extend their ltnowledgc to include otic profession. facet be placed on an imperfection marketing and display. In his introduction, Mr. Water- to protect the stone during the gir- A very important and frequently meyer explains how diamond cut- dling process. neglected area of gemological train- ting has always been a secretive pro- Since the book is written by a ing is the jewelry store itself. Win- cess, the skills being well-guarded cutter, the terminology throughout dow and counter displays can, by secrets passed on begrudgingly from is that of the cutter, not of the gem- themselves, cffectively market mer- master to apprentice. This not only ologist, although the author does chandise, and should be given top ensured the mystique of the cutter malze an effort to list the various priority by the retailer. Even the but also, more significantly, restricted terms for a given subject. An ex- most beautiful pieces will hot sell any advances in technology. (Until ample of this confusion in termi- unless they are presented to the cus- very recently-and to some extent nology is the author's discussion on tomer in a pleasing manner. Yet it even today-much diamond cutting the swindling of a stone, referring to is surprising to note how many jew- was done in the same manner as it the improved weight recovery gained elers and sales personnel have no was accomplished in the Middle by undetectable deviation from a formal training or experience in jew- Ages.) Watermeyer and his well-or- normal malze. A student of GIA, elry display. ganized and thorough text represent however, uses the term swindling MariAnn Coutchie is one of the a significant break in this tradition. solely to indicate a diamond with a country's leaders in the art of store The book covers every aspect of very spread table, which is actually planning and jewelry display. Not processing diamonds, from the iden- only one of many ways to save only was she the author of GIA's tification and classification of rough, weight-and not an undetectable Jewelry Display Course, but she has to the detailed operation of auto- one. also written her own boolz, Iewelry matic cutting machines and the To round out the book, there are on Display. The second edition of fashioning of new, innovative cuts. a few final chapters on weights, the the boolz includes updated infor- The last subject is covered in excep- three Cs, and the world's largest cut mation on lighting, planning, and tional detail-probably due to the diamonds. A chapter on new devel- display props; it is an excellent ref- fact that the author invented the opments is an important addition to erence guide and handbook which Barion cut. The subiects not cov- the second edition, especially as it details types of composition, themes, ered, for example, radiation bom- covers new faceting techniques for and color coordination. Accentuated bardment to affect color, are few and fancy-shaped diamonds. But the most with more than 130 black-and-white relatively insignificant. welcomed addition is an extensive photographs highlighting window In general, the various chapters, index at the end of the volume. ideas, window signs, and award- which are well illustrated with pho- In summary, as much as I feel winning displays, the boolz contains tographs and detailed diagrams, will that the information covered in this serve to enlighten people unfamiliar esoteric boolz will benefit any stu- with cutting processes. Yet Water- dent or participant in the diamond meyer also goes into detail that will industry, it is best recommended to 'This book is avnilable for prlrchase at probably not be understood by, or of diamond cutters and others in the the GIA Bookstore, 1735 Stewart any use to, anyone who is not ac- industry who are seriously inter- Street, Santlr ~Monica,CA 90404.

Book Reviews GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 57 87 pages of helpful hints and crea- specimens. Of special interest to the history of glass engraving and tive suggestions. The presentation those collecting mineral specimens continues with discussions of cur- of the material is well balanced and from these localities are the crystal rent methods of engraving, how to flows gracefully from one topic to drawings found throughout the book. photograph and display engraved glass, the next. Most of these were talten from the and how to pack glass for safe trans- Two areas of consideration not Atlas der Krystallformen, by Victor port. It concludes with a lengthy discussed at length in the boolt, Goldschmidt, which was published chapter describing the worlt of 30 or however, deserve serious attention in nine volumes between 1913 and so modern-day glass engravers in by the displayperson. First, security 1923. The text is also well illus- the United Kingdom, United States, in windows and counters must be trated with maps, black-and-white Canada, and Australia. scrutinized, and second, precautions photographs, and drawings of loca- Ostensibly a how-to-manual, the about placing light- or heat-sensi- tions, and black-and-white and color boolt falls well short of this mark. tive materials in the window should plates of fine gem and mineral spec- The discussions of how to choose be examined. The displayperson must imens. Most of the location photo- glass to engrave, what tools to use, not only be trained in artistic dis- graphs were talten in the early 1900s, how to set up a worlt space, and es- play procedures, but should also have so their quality is sometimes poor. pecially how to do diamond-point some concrete gemological ltnowl- And although the old photographs engraving, drill engraving, acid etch- edge as well. evoke the classical nature of these ing, and gilding, are cursory and While this boolt may not give localities, current photographs of the could serve only to whet the appe- you all of the answers to the intri- areas still being mined would nlalte tites of interested readers-certainly cacies of window display, it cer- the text more useful. not to instruct them in actual tech- tainly is a valuable tool for the Since this is a text of classic lo- niques. In great contrast, the discus- novice salesperson and experienced calities, many deposits are not cov- sions of how to photograph, display, displayperson alilte. ered, and some readers may be dis- and transport glass are overly de- NOEL KRIEGER appointed that their favorites were tailed, long, and tedious. *. Instructor, GIA . not included. A couple of examples The boolt is illustrated with 59 of omissions are the ruby deposits black-and-white plates randomly of Thailand and Cambodia and the grouped into three clumps, posi- CLASSIC MINERAL nephrite deposits of China. How- tioned haphazardly in the text with LOCALITIES OF THE ever, there are enough gemstone de- no relation to specific topics being WORLD: ASIA AND posits described to warrant space for discussed. Individual plates are never AUSTRALIA this book on every gemologist's explained by the author or specifi- By Philip Scalisi and David Cook, shelf. Among the most notable are cally referred to in the text. 226 pp., illus., published by Van Burma's rubies and iadeite, Kash- The chapter on contemporary glass Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, mir's sapphires, ~ndia's dia'monds, engravers is irrelevant and pointless. 1983. US$29.5Og the gems of Sri Lanlta and of the The worlt of each craftsman is su- Ural Mountains (U.S.S.R.), and Aus- pcrficially described in a paragraph This is the first in a series of vol- tralia's opals. or two and generally not illustrated umes describing the classic mineral This boolt is a pleasure to read. in the plates. And it seeins doubtful localities of the world. It was writ- It will be enjoyed by the casual reader that you will find an opportunity to ten as a reference manual for anyone as well as the researcher. We can view this handiwork firsthand, since interested in gems or minerals: from look forward to the other volumes most of these engravers live in re- the professional gemologist or min- in this series. mote hamlets scattered across the eralogist to the amateur or hobbyist. GARY HILL globe. The boolt is divided into two There are four appendixes-de- parts: the first includes Japan, China, Resident Colored StoneslGem Identification Instructor, GIA signs (motifs) to trace, some sup- Burma, Sri Lanlta, India, Afghani- pliers of tools and equipment, where stan, Iran, and the U.S.S.R.; the sec- to see exhibits of engraved glass, and ond deals with Australia. For each 13 boolts for further reading-all locality there is a brief geographical GLASS ENGRAVING By Barbara Normon, 190 pp., illus., sltetchy, random, and incomplete. description and a discussion of his- Gems d Gemology readers will torical development, including dis- published by Arco, New Yorli, NY, 1981. US$25.00* find little in this boolt to enrich their covery and subsequent mining, fa- lives. At best, a mild interest in glass mous specimens, and some gemstone According to the introduction, Glass engraving might be piqued. lore. The geology of the deposits is Engraving is intended as a guide to briefly described, as is the charac- future glass-engraving hobbyists. The JENNIFER PORRO teristic crystallography of typical boolt begins with a brief overview of Los Angeles, CA

58 Book Reviews GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Stephanie Dillon, Editor

DIAMONDS Council in Antwerp is conducting a retraining school. DeBeers reports that world sales of diamond jewelry The aim is to teach techniques for additional cuts that rose in 1982 to 33 million pieces from 32 million pieces are currently in demand in the world market. in 1981, and Christmas sales of jewelry exceeded ex- pectations. Botswana. "Orapa House," Botswana's new sorting Interest in medium- and higher-grade diamonds is headquarters, has been opened in Debswana, so that picking up, and small polished diamonds are in short the nation's growing diamond production can be sorted supply, according to Antwerp dealers. and priced within the country. Orapa, Letlhakane, and A new diamond imitation has been circulating dur- Jwaneng, Debswana's mines, are expected to produce ing the past year. It is a doublet consisting of a diamond 9.5 million carats of gem and industrial diamonds by crown and a cubic zirconia pavilion. The difference in 1985. girdle textures is immediately evident in the case of loose stones. In the case of mounted stones, however, China. This past fall, the geological bureau of Shandong British gemologist Alan Hodgkinson suggests the fol- province recorded the discovery of a 96.94-ct diamond lowing tests: (1)look for a "picture frame" effect as the at the Chenjiafu diamond placer mine near Tancheng. table facet is reflected off the junction plane; (2) hold Two other large diamonds were found in that area in a pin over the table-the pin will reflect from the table 1979 and 1981 they weighed 158.79 ct and 124.27 ct, and from the junction plane as well; (3)use a fiber-optic respectively. In addition to these stones, numerous dia- light to pinpoint the reflection from the table and junc- monds of over 10 ct and large quantities of chrome-con- tion plane (Retail leweller, June 3, 1982). taining gem garnets were found in the same location. According to the bureau, a general survey of the area Australia. A new company, Argyle Diamond Sales Ltd., is being conducted to search for the as-yet-undiscov- will be marketing the 95% of Argyle diamonds pro- ered primary deposit. duced for Conzinc Riotinto Australia and Ashton Min- ing Ltd. Initial mining of alluvial diamonds is expected Guinea. Production of diamonds and gold in the Baule to produce 5 million carats annually until mid-1985, Basin of Guinea is scheduled to start in early 1984. when operations will commence at Kimberlite pipe Aredor, a joint venture of the People's Revolutionary AK1. The pipe should produce 2.9 million tons of kim- Republic of Guinea (SO%),Bridge Oil of Australia (45%), berlite over a 20-year period, at a rate of 20 to 25 mil- Industrial Diamond of London (2.5%), and Simonius lion carats per year (four to five tons of material). Min- Vischer of Switzerland (2.5%), is expected to process ing in the area is foreseen for possibly 40 years. The 400,000 cubic meters of diamond-bearing gravels per deposit at Ellendale is not yet considered economically year and to maintain that level of production for 14 feasible. Four hundred and forty workers will work the years. The rate of diamond recovery is estimated at 0.05 mine. ct per cubic meter. Up to 80% of the diamonds are Exploration in Western Australia during the three purported to be of gem quality. months prior to September 30 yielded 139,000 ct of diamonds. One hundred and twenty-six thousand car- Israel. Ramat-Gan's net diamond exports for 1982, ats were produced from 50,000 tons of ore, the largest which had been predicted to reach $800 million, rose crystal weighing almost 12.2 ct. to $900 million before the year's end. Exports to Hong Kong, the U.S., and japan increased, while net imports Belgium. Despite the recession, the import of dia- (primarily of small stones) rose nearly 30%. monds into Antwerp, chiefy rough, maintained through As a result of a labor dispute in Israel's diamond fac- the first 10 months of 1982 a 6% increase over the com- tories, workers are receiving a 10.9% pay increase ret- parable period of 1981. roactive to September 1, 1982. The increase met the Twenty percent of Antwerp's 8,000-member dia- approval of the nation's manufacturers, labor unions, mond work force are unemployed, and a similar num- and government. ber are only partially employed, according to industry figures. To increase the competitiveness of this cutting Japan. As of April 1, 1983, the 3.1% customs duty on center, the Industrial Committee of the Diamond High polished diamonds has been abolished. Leading bene-

Gem News GEMS A GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 59 ficiaries of the action are Israel, Belgium, and India, topaz have been located in northern Pakistan. Topaz which combined represent 73% of Japan's annual pol- occurrences at Katlang, in the Mardan district, are cur- ished diamond imports. rently under study. Diamond jewelry sales in Japan reached $3.2 billion The Santa Terezinha deposits in the Brazilian state in 1981, over five times the amount recorded for 1971. of Goias, discovered within the past two years, may be Figures for 1982 are expected to be on a level with 1981. mined only by native Brazilians, by order of the gov- ernment. To date, the largest reported clean stone is a Portugal. Illicit diamond traffic in Portugal is estimated 60-ct crystal. at 1.5 million carats. The Angolan government, suffcr- ing the loss of revenues from its Diamang mines, has Pearls. Japan's export of cultured pearls decreased con- requested help from Portugal in curbing the smuggling. siderably during 1982; records for the first eight months show a 14% drop when compared with the same period Singapore. South Asia Diamond Company, the Singa- for 1981. pore polishing plant organized in the Kallang Basin in- Small Uiwa and Keshi pearls are difficult to obtain, dustrial estates, completes its first year's operation but medium-sized pearls are in sufficient supply. It is with an output of 1,250 to 1,500 ct per month. The not presently lznown what quantities the spring Biwa company polishes diamonds with computerized ma- harvest will yield. chines. The staff of 40 worlzers has been trained by cut- Chinese freshwater cultured pearls are plentiful. ters from Britain, Belgium, and Israel. Quartz. An amethyst deposit has been discovered in the Brazilian state of Goias, 35 lzm from the Santa Ter- South Africa. A diamond weighing 64.94 ct was re- ezinha emerald mines. covered in the latter part of 1982 at the Octha Mine Demand for fine, large amethysts is reportedly near Sendelingsdrift on the Orange River. It has been strong. Supplies of commercial grades from Africa and speculated that the crystal would yield a round brilliant South America are adequate (see the following section of at least 26 ct. The color of the rough is estimated at on "Tucson" for a description of amethysts from an- F or G and the clarity at flawless to VVSI. other new source in Brazil), although Zambian exports USA:.visitors to the Crater of Diahonds State Parlz, have been interrupted for political reasons. Park County, Arkansas, found approximately 1,300 Fine citrines are also showing increased popularity; diamonds-the majority of which are suitable only for supplies in all sizes and grades are plentiful. industrial use or as mineral specimens-in 1982. The mining is considered a recreation; 68,000 people visited Taaffeite. In December, the discovery of another taaf- the park during the year. feite was reported. The 2.41-ct specimeml was included in a parcel of assorted rough purchased in Thailand. Venezuela. Venezuela's annual output, down from The stone is colorless, waterworn, and irregular in 800,000 to 750,000 ct in 1981, is expected to drop to shape. The ordinary ray has an R.I. of 1.717, and the less than 500,000 ct for 1982. Approximately 21% of extraordinary, 1.720, with a birefringence of 0.004 and the production is of gem quality. a specific gravity of 3.59. There are iron oxide stains in cracks, and the crystal contains small planes of liquid COLORED STONES and crystal inclusions. Only about 50 specimens of Cat's-eye Chrysoberyl. A large quantity of cat's-eye taaffeite have been identified to date. chrysoberyl was discovered on a ranch in central Zim- Topaz, Radioactive Irradiated. The Brazilian govern- babwe, close to the Sandawana emerald deposits. In- ment is investigating unauthorized irradiation of gem- asmuch as most cat's-eye material comes from second- stones at its two nuclear reactor facilities following the ary deposits-decomposed pegmatites or alluvials-this recent discovery that some irradiated topaz exhibited discovery may lead to the actual source of the stones. excessive levels of radioactivity. Stones irradiated by high-energy electron beams or by gamma radiation do Emeralds. Machinery made in the area of Ramat-Gan, not retain appreciable radioactivity and are quite safe Israel, is being used by the Israel Emerald Cutters As- for jewelry use. Stones that have been treated in atomic sociation to produce large quantities of emeralds in cal- piles, however, are exposed to neutron radiation, which ibrated sizes. The new equipment improves cutting ef- can cause lasting radioactivity. American gem dealers ficiency while increasing the yield from rough stones. are concerned that Brazil may end all irradiation of In 1982, three emerald deposits were discovered in stones to curtail the supply of irradiated topaz-in the Paltistan, at Charbagh, Malzad, and Gujar Killi in Swat. interests of economics as much as of health. The Guiar Killi emeralds will be mined by o~en- it *. . methods. Existing emerald mines at Mingora, Swat, Tourmaline. The Himalaya Mine in Southern Califor- will be modernized. Deposits of aquamarine and golden nia is continuing to produce pink, green, and bicolored

60 Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 Figure 1. These star sapphires and cat's-eye chrysoberyls are representative of some of the fine gems seen at the February 1983 Tucson gem d and mineral show. Upper row, left to right: 70.26 ct, 63.07 ct, 78.52 ct. Lower row: 12.08 ct, 17.08 ct. Photo " 1983 Tino Hommid. tourmalines. The crystals are generally one-half to two Sri Lankan rubies and sapphires were seen in abun- inches (1-5 cm) in length, although some are three dance. In recent months, fancy-colored sapphires have inches (7.5 cm) or longer. A substantial proportion of been more readily available in the Far East, although the material is recovered as gem "pencils." The average blue stones, particularly in calibrated sizes, have been yield for one month is 100 to 200 pounds of all quali- scarce in fine quality. ties. Approximately 80% is bead material, 10% fine Attracting a great deal of attention was a 1,126-ct bead, 8% cabochon, and 2% suitable for faceting. The pinkish orange sapphire crystal (illustrated on page 35 largest stone cut from a Himalaya crystal thus far is a of this issue) reported by its owner to have been re- 75-ct bicolor. cently removed from Ratnapura in January. It was ex- pected to yield a cut stone of at least 200 ct. The same Synthetics. The Ramaura Created Ruby, introduced concern displayed four translucent deep blue star sap- this year at the February Tucson show, is being pro- phires, in weights ranging from 70.26 to 87.06 ct, and duced and will soon be marketed in Southern Califor- several fine cat's-eye chrysoberyls [see figure 1). nia. It has been manufactured in a range from dark red Yogo sapphires were also seen. These lighter and to lighter red with pink overtones, and in orangy to brighter blue sapphires, mined in Montana and pro- purplish hues. Flux grown, it displays characteristic moted by a Denver-based firm, will be marketed in fin- flux inclusions, in addition to growth zoning and some ished jewelry pieces throughout the U.S., Europe, and color zoning. The manufacturer reports that the ma- Japan by the end of 1983. terial will be doped to produce a characteristic fluores- Spinels, especially in reds and pinks, have been cence. This synthetic will be discussed at length in an plentiful in Bangkok, and were shown by numerous article currently being prepared for Gems eG Gemology. dealers. Topaz was in good supply, especially in rough In the experimental stage is a hydrothermal emerald form, and several faceted imperial topazes were on with mid-range optical and physical properties. It is display. nonfluorescent and close to inclusion-free. There was a great deal of tourmaline, including in- dicolites and rubellites. Rubellites from last year's dis- covery in Ouro Fino (near the souther11 tip of Minas TUCSON, 1983 Gerais, Brazil) were displayed, including a 48.32-ct fac- Initiated in 1955 by the Tucson Gem & Mineral Soci- eted oval-shaped stone. Approximately 85% of the fac- ety, what began as a two-day show for eight small min- eted stones from the mine's yield are smaller than 4 ct. eral dealers has become a two-week event involving There have been, however, a number of 9-ct stones; the hundreds of dealers gathering from around the world oval stone, lznown as the Princess of Ouro Fino, is the to exhibit gems and mineral specimens in eight hotels largest yielded by the mine. The fine red material, of in addition to the Tucson Community Center. There exceptional clarity, was found in two pockets, both of was more activity at Tucson in 1983 than has been seen which are now depleted. there the past two years, and participants hoped the Emeralds were plentiful. Two ~articularlylarge attitude presaged an improved business climate for stones, one of 44.07 ct and the other of 47.30 ct, were jewelers and gem dealers in the months to come. shown by different companies. What is reported to be

Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 61 a number of both were shown. (The tanzanite mine is closed, and the Tanzanian military has halted mining of the dumps. However, the Tanzanian government is in the process of taking over the mine, and should be releasing more material in the near future. A number of Kenyan tsavorite mines have closed; the cost of pro- duction-gasoline- for vehicles is a serious considera- tion-became prohibitive.) A new find of aquamarine, displayed in rough form, came from Hunan, China. The crystals were less than 10 cm in length, and of a medium blue reminiscent of Pakistan material. There were a number of fine Burmese peridots, in- cluding one of 77.5 ct. Another dealer had six stones of 40 ct each, all cut from the same crystal. A fine 14.74-ct alexandrite exhibited a color change from plum to olive green. There was also an intense green 4.35-ct faceted demantoid, which displayed an easily eye-visible horsetail inclusion under the table. Amethyst was seen in quantity. Fine-colored ame- thyst has been coming from Para State, Brazil, since last summer. The material is intense, with red over- tones, and is found in crystals of up to 40 ct. Many deal- ers were also displaying synthetic amethyst. - - Sugilite was abundant en cnbochon and in carvings, Figure 2. This 667-ct Muzo emerald crystal (2% as well as in a few faceted stones. in. high. x 1 '/z in. wide) was on dis~layat the A golden yellow fluorite of 1,031 ct was displayed Tucson Community Center. Stone property of in the main show at the Tucson Community Center. It is reported to be the world's largest faceted eye-clean Allan Caplan, New York, NY. Photo @ 1981 Hnrold, d Ericn Vnn Pelt-Photogrnphers, Los fluorite. Angeles, CA. Also on exhibit at the main show were some sizable crystals of spodumene and tourmaline from a pegrna- tite discovery made a year ago in Nuristan, Afghani- stan. Morganite in feldspar, quartz in feldspar, and one of the finest emerald crystals known to exist today lepidolite mica were also found in the pegmatite. Ap- was on display at the Tucson Community Center (see proximately 25% of the spodumene and tourmaline has figure 2). The 667-ct deep-green crystal came from the been cut into stones. Some of the tourmaline was sent Muzo mine in Colon~bia. to China for carving. It is reported that the mine own- In spite of repeated reports concerning the rarity of ers were able to smuggle the bulky material out of the tanzanites and tsavorites, especially in substantial sizes, country despite the Russian occupation.

AGTA Design Contest submitted must be colored stones, GASA The American Gem Trade Associa- and no more than 20% may be dia- The Gemmological Association of tion has announced the first com- n~~nds.Awards will be n~adeduring South Africa has been established in petition to promote the design of the AGTA Fair and Conclave in Johannesburg. The president is colored-stone jewelry. The contest Tucson, Arizona, February 1984. Arthur Thomas; Ian Campbell is open to participants throughout Rules and applications are available (founderof the Rhodesian Gemmo- the world from students to profes- from the AGTA Spectrum Award logical Association) is secretary. sional jewelry designers. At least Commission, P.O. Box 32086, Phoe- 80% of the gems in the finished piece nix, AZ 85064. The deadline for en- tries is July 29, 1983.

62 Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983