Gems&Gernology VOLUME XIX SPRING 1983 The quarterly journal of the Gemological Institute of America SPRING 1983 Volume 19 Number 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL 1 The Gems & Gemology Most Valuable Article Award Richard T. Liddicoat, Ir. FEATURE 3 Art Deco: The Period, the Jewelry ARTICLES 1. Mark Ebert 12 The Cap50 Topaz Deposit, Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil Peter C. Keller 21 Harry Winston: A Story Told in Diamonds Laurence S. Krashes 30 Padparadscha: What's in a Name? Robert Crowningshield NOTES . 37 A New Classification for Red-to-Violet Garnets AND NEW W. William Hanneman TECHNIQUES 41 A Response to "A New Classification for Red-to-Violet Garnets" D. Vincenl Manson and Carol M. Stockton REGULAR 43 Gem Trade Lab Notes FEATURES 50 Gemological Abstracts 57 Book Reviews 59 Gem News ABOUT THE COVER: Art Deco, which predominated in Europe and the United States in the 1920s and 1930s, is perhaps the most distinctive style of jewelry to have emerged in the 20th century. These two pieces-a platinum, yellow gold, diamond, and blue sapphire brooch (l9I16 in. high x 1 in. wide; 3.9 cm x 2.5 cm) and diamond and onyx in platinum bar pin (2% in. x 1/4 in.; 5.4 cm x 0.6 cm)-illustrate the symmetry, materials commonly used, and color combinations that are among the many characteristics of Art Deco described in the article by Mark Ebert in this issue. lewelry courtesy of Richter's of Palm Beach and Ebert-Richter. Photo " 1983 Harold and Erica VM Pelt-Photographers, Los Angeles. Composition for Gems & Gemology is by Printed Page Graphics, Fullerton, CA. The color separations are by Effective Graphics, Compton, CA. Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD. "'1983 Gemological Institute 01 America. All rights reserved. ISSN 001 6-626X EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Editor, Gem Trade Lab Notes STAFF Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr. Alice S. Keller Chuck Fryer I660 Stewart St. Associate Editor Editor, Gemological Abstracts Santa Monica, CA 90404 Peter C. Keller Dona M. Dirlarn Telephone: (213)829-2991 Associate Editor Editorial Assistant Editor, Book Reviews D. Vincent Manson Sally A. Thomas Michael Ross Contributing Editor Subscriptions Editor, Gem News john 1. Koivula lanet M. Fryer, Manager Stephanie Dillion Lisa Schmidt, Assistant Manager PRODUCTION Art Director Cover Design GIA Photographer STAFF Susan Kingsbury Peter Johnston Mike Havstad EDITORIAL Robert Crowningshield C. S. Hurlbut, Jr Kurt Nassatl REVIEW BOARD New York, NY Cambridge, MA Bernardsville, Nl Pete Dunn Anthony R. Kampf Glenn Nord Washington, DC Los Angeles, CA Los Angeles, CA Dennis Foltz Robert E. Kane George Rossman Sanra Monica, CA Los Angeles, CA Prrsadenri. CA Chuck Fryer John Koivula John Sinkankas Santa Monica. CA Santa Monica, CA San Diego, CA Sallie Morton Son lose, CA SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in the U.S.A. are priced as follows: $22.50 for one year (4 issues), $60.00 for three years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are: $32.00 for one year, $85.00 for three years. Special annual subscription rates are available for all students actively involved in a GIA program: $17.50 U.S.A., $27.00 elsewhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entered. Single issues may be purchased for $6.00 in the U.S.A., $8.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issues of C7&G are also available for vurchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and the purchase of single copies or back issues to the Subscriptions Manager. MANUSCRIPT Gems d Gemology welcomes the submiss~onof art~cleson all aspects of the field. Please see the Suggestions for SUBMISSIONS Authors for preparing manuscripts in the Summer 1981 issue of the journal or contact the Managing Edltor for a copy. Letters on articles publrshed In Gems d Gemology and other relevant mattels are also welcome. COPYRIGHT Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the llmits of U.S. copyright law for private use of patrons. lnstmctors are permitted to photocopy isolated articles for noncommerc~al AND REPRINT classroom use without fee. For other copying, reprint, or republication permission, please contact the Managng PERMISSIONS Editor. Gems el Gemology is published quarterly by the Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educat~onal organrzation for rhe jewelry ~ndustry,1660 Stewart St., Santa Momca, CA 90404 Any oplmons expressed In slgned artrcles are understood to be the vlews of the authors and not of the publrshers. THE GEMS & GEMOLOGY MOST VALUABLE ARTICLE AWARD RICHARD T. LIDDICOAT, Jr. Editor-in-Chief nce again the ballots for the most valuable article in the 1982 issues of Gems d 0 Gemology have been read and tabulated. We very much appreciate the time that our subscribers took to participate in the balloting. The comments on the ballots were particularly gratifying in their expressions of satisfaction with the joumal. It is with great pleasure that I talze this opportunity to compliment Alice Keller on her magnificent effort as managing editor of Gems ed Gemology. The winning article for 1982 was "The Jade Enigma," by Jill Hobbs, which appeared in the Spring issue. This is the second time that Ms. Hobbs has placed first in the balloting, and we congratulate her on her accomplishment. The next most appreciated article was Dr. Edward Gubelin's comprehensive discussion of "The Gemstones of Pakistan: Emerald, Ruby, and Spinel," which appeared in the Fall issue. The article that placed third also appeared in the Fall issue: gemological Properties of Chatham Flux-Grown Synthetic orange Sapphire and Synthetic Blue Sapphire," by Robert E. Kane. In recognition of their achievements, Ms. Hobbs, Dr. Gubelin, and Mr. Kane will receive cash awards of $500, $300, and $100, respectively. Brief biographies of the authors appear on the following page. At this time, I would like to say a few words to thank our support staff of section editors, abstracters, and reviewers, whose continued commitment to-and willingness to work for-the excellence of Gems d Gemology is invaluable. I also wish to acknowledge those people whose names do not appear on a masthead but who were willing to take the time during the past year to help with the review process that is the backbone of the joumal: Joe Borden, Edward Dominik, Bill Ken; Jean Langenheim, Joseph Leavitt, David Morrow, and Ray Page. One of the comments that we read most frequently on the ballots was the fine quality of the photographs published in the journal. We are fortunate that so many good photos are provided by the authors themselves, by gem photographer Tino Hammid, and by GIA staff photographer Milze Havstad. We wish to make special note that all of the cover photos for 1982 and many of the superb shots inside those issues were donated by the team of professional photographers, Harold and Erica Van Pelt. Our sincerest thanks for their invaluable contribution. GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 1 THE WINNERS JILL M. HOBBS After four years as a lecturer in the Colored StoneslGem Identification Department of GIA's Resident Program and one year as assistant manager of the Home Study Department, Ms. Hobbs is currently assistant executive director of the GIA Alumni Association. In this position, Ms. Hobbs has primary responsibility for developing the association's special Gemology Update classes, which teach the latest developments in synthetics, treatments, and sources through lectures and lab sessions. Ms. Hobbs is a native of Washington State. She is a graduate gemologist and received her B.A. from the University of California at Los Angeles. EDWARD J. GUBELIN One of the leading gemologists in the world, Dr. Giibelin not only has developed his own gemological research laboratory, but also has published innumerable articles and given many lectures on all aspects of the field. He is particularly well known for his expertise in inclusions in gemstones; his book, The Internal World of Gemstones, is already a classic. In addition to his current research activities in Lucerne, Switzerland, Dr. Giibelin is honorary professor at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa. Dr. Giibelin was born in Lucerne and completed his studies at the universities of Zurich and Vienna. He is both a certified gemologist and a fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. ROBERT E. KANE Mr. Kane is supervisor of the Gem Identification Department at the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory in Los Angeles. His research specialty is the separation of natural and synthetic gemstones, on which he has written extensively. He is also a contributing editor for the Gem Trade Lab Notes section of Gems d Gemology. Mr. Kane, a native of Albuquerque, New Mexico, left his jewelry manufacturing firm there in 1977 to obtain his Graduate Gemologist diploma in residence at GIA. He has worked at the Gem Trade Laboratory exclusively since his graduation from the program. 2 Editorial GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 ART DECO: THE PERIOD, THE JEWELRY By J. Mark E bert Although the Art Deco period extends rt Deco is the term applied to the design movement roughly from 1910 to well into the 1930s, A that predominated in Europe and the United States it was primarily a product of the in the 1920s and 1930s until the beginning of World War "Roaring '20s." This was a wonderfully 11. The earliest manifestations of Art Deco were seen decadent era. It was an age of Prohibition around 1910, growing out of the Art Nouveau genre, but and cocktail parties, of flappers and the the movement established its momentum primarily dur- Charleston, of racketeers and G-men, of nouveau riche and credit spending.