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Home , Active Pass, Gabriola Island, Galiano Island, Gulf Islands, Mayne Island, Pender Island

A brsh with WORDS ANTHONY LAMBERT

NATURECanada’s Southern have an arty vibe and few visitors, but each one has its own unique character to discover. They could be your perfect 2020 escape…

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092-102_GulfIslands_Canada_SO.indd 93 05/12/2019 18:06 ur kayaks slipped silently through transparent waters towards the family of sea otters cavorting on the rocks, the two pups playing hide and seek before they slid down to hunt for sea urchins among the kelp beds. We edged along the shoreline pastO beaches littered with jumbles of trees, the tell-tale deposits of storms past, their trunks stripped of bark, bleached by the sun and polished smooth by abrasion. Beneath us tiny crabs scuttled over the sandy bed, while bald eagles circled overhead. I was in Galiano, one of the Southern Gulf Islands lying between the east coast of Island and the mainland of , Canada. Since my first visit over 20 years ago, I had been drawn back to these oases of tranquillity by their exceptional beauty and the gentle pace of island life. Here cafés are as much about meeting and talking as sustenance, and every shop is independently owned. Too small for public transport, several islands have a Car Stop scheme where you wait by a sign and the next car along will probably pull up to give you a ride and have a chat. Every meeting turns into a conversation. The islands are so peaceful that only Salt Spring and Pender have a police presence, and the most serious incident during my visits was the abduction of the community hall cat on Salt Spring by a well-meaning mainland resident who thought it needed a ‘proper’ home. There’s not only a strong sense of community but the islanders are proud of the land they live on. In 1948 the Galiano community even pulled together to help buy Bluffs Park, the island’s oldest wilderness park. Walking Galiano’s Sturdies Bay Trail up through forest to one of the islands’ finest viewpoints, the bluffs themselves, I gazed out over the silvery-grey waters of and the dark green-black upheavals of the archipelago, like giant whales breaching. Sheltered coves and deep inlets make the islands a paradise for paddleboarders and kayakers. From the water, they resemble eruptions of rock on which the trees elbow one another for every craggy foot of ground. Nearly all the islands are named after British or Spanish ships, or crew members from exploratory or mapping voyages from the late 18th century. You can understand why they made the journey. The islands are not only worth the trip for their natural beauty and temperate climate. You can hike through forests, walk along beaches, watch orcas or take in the ’s signature art by wandering through one of its many galleries.

The only question is which one to visit first. ⊲ page: Getty Images Previous Scott Jessop. by Getty Images. Illustration This page: Alamy;

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An artist’s archipelago (clockwise from far left) Orca o ; garden art on ; kayaking o ers an excellent vantage point; coniferous forest on ; sunset over Montague Harbour; (previous pages) Galiano Island Previous page: Getty Images Previous Scott Jessop. by Getty Images. Illustration This page: Alamy;

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092-102_GulfIslands_Canada_SO.indd 95 05/12/2019 18:07 ⊳ was created in 2002 by the island Best for: History community to commemorate the ‘A little hell’ is what Mayne used to be part played by the Japanese from 1900 called back in 1858, thanks to the in setting up a herring saltery, behaviour of the prospectors using it orchards and poultry farms as well as as a staging post on their way from producing milk, cream and Victoria to the after gold strawberries. Surrounding a waterfall- was discovered. Mayne’s a lot more fed pond large enough to have an serene now. The lock-up that housed island are cherry trees, acers, fuschias, miscreants can still be seen opposite rhododendrons, camellias and irises. the community hall, today housing the Organic beef, lamb, goats’ milk, island’s museum. The oldest building chickens, jams and chutneys are on the island though is said to be the produced by the island’s three farms, lighthouse at Georgina Point which, while a brewery was set up in 2016, standing 13.7m tall, has been guiding now producing a dozen beers. Hiking ships through Active Pass since 1885. trails on the island are limited, but the A more recent memorial to the possibility of several circular routes, island’s history is the Japanese some challengingly hilly, makes it Garden at Dinner Bay Park. This popular with cyclists.

The Mayne event (clockwise from this) Sunset over Mayne Island; the Japanese Garden is a memorial to the island’s history; the lighthouse at Georgina Point is a visible navigation landmark for ships plying one of the busiest waterways of Canada’s west coast Alamy; Getty Images Alamy;

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Michael Garratt & Annette Witteman Visitors to Mayne will ind that beer here is a family business. Mayne Island Brewing’s been making ales since 2016, when it was founded by Annette and Cheshire-born Michael, who worked in the wine trade before deciding it was time to slow down in the Gulf Islands. Michael’s success with home brewing spawned the idea of going pro with it – and their whole brood’s involved too. Michael looks after the brewing, artist Annette designs the labels, 14-year- old Grace hand labels the bottles, while 16-year-old Jasper runs the bottle line. You can arrange a visit and enjoy the gong-bagging Barrel Aged Brown for yourself. Bottoms up. mayneislandbrewingco.com ⊲

‘It’s a beautiful community; you’ll never meet any two people the same at all.’ Michael Garratt

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Call of nature (clockwise from this) Malaspina Galleries on Gabriola Island; Pender Island is known for its wildlife such as this turkey vulture and orca; one of the petroglyphs carved into a rock face on Gabriola

⊳ GABRIOLA ISLAND with a brickworks and sandstone Best for: Art lovers quarries supplying Victoria and Gabriola seems have always attracted Vancouver. Millstones cut from the artists. Visitors can seek out some of the sandstone were once sent as far afield 100 or so (rapidly eroding) petroglyphs as Finland for use in paper mills, but – some 3,000 years old – carved into those quarries have long fallen into its sandstone rock faces. The 4,000 disuse. Visit Gabriola Museum to current residents of the ‘Isle of Arts’ learn more about the area’s history. continue to sustain a vibrant creative Cyclists favour Gabriola for its 30km life, with arts and theatre festivals, island loop – none of the other islands and during Thanksgiving over 50 have such an extensive circuit – and it artists open their studios to visitors. is particularly rich in wildlife, with That sandstone was also central to over 250 species to be seen. Its reefs the economy. Gabriola was one of the also offer some of the best marine life

few Gulf islands to have industries, diving on the British Columbian coast. Alamy

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092-102_GulfIslands_Canada_SO.indd 98 05/12/2019 18:10 PENDER ISLAND The first settler of European Best for: Nature descent arrived here in 1886, and the Linked by a short wooden trestle pioneer homestead of Roe House at bridge, North and South Pender offer Roesland has become the island’s around 67 trails – some challenging if museum. It’s a fine example of early short, such as the climb to the 244m log construction, in a glorious summit of Mount Norman. It has the waterfront setting. Over two dozen most public beach access points of galleries welcome visitors, and the any of the islands, making it a Community Hall hosts a farmers’ hotspot for outdoor getaways. Orcas and arts and crafts market on are often spotted in the archipelago, Saturday mornings. Don’t miss the and one of the best viewpoints is bakery and café – a hub of island life Thieves Bay on Swanson Channel. – at the Driftwood Centre. ⊲ Alamy

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092-102_GulfIslands_Canada_SO.indd 99 05/12/2019 18:11 Painting a picture (clockwise from left) The island is ideal for kayaking at sunset; there are extensive forests for hiking on Galiano Island; the Tuesday Market on ; Salt Spring lamb; see orcas on Tour Galiano; the eroded sandstone forms

⊳ GALIANO ISLAND midden deposits on the Gulf Islands, Best for: Hiking the remnants of villages Long, narrow Galiano isn’t just one of over the last 3,500 years. Near Spotlight the most attractive islands off the Lower Cove are strangely eroded sandstone Mainland but, rather conveniently, it’s forms, creating caves and ‘windows’ in Rachelle Hayden also the easiest to reach too. It boasts the rock. The highest point on the Do you think monitoring orca sounds the most hours of sunshine among island is Mount Galiano at 311m, one of like a pretty wonderful use of your the islands, which gives you more several preserves held in trust by the time? Well, Rachelle thinks so too, time to enjoy the forests of Garry oak, Galiano Club and reached by four doing part-time work on behalf of the maple, cedar and Douglas fir. Even on different trails. Walking them, one Orca Squad (look them up on YouTube). a wet day, Montague Harbour is an appreciates why the majestic western This, though, is just one of her jobs here: she works idyllic place to while away the hours, red cedar was chosen as the symbol a few days a week in the bakery, does some remote PR with wraiths of mist rising from the tree of British Columbia. work, and has set up Tour Galiano to guide visitors dark conifers, a pair of geese honking When hungry, stop by the Max around the island. Ironically, Rachelle and her husband as they skim the sheltered bay, and the and Moritz Spicy Island Food moved to Galiano in order to drop down a gear or two pungent smell of seaweed and kelp. House, a truck that serves an eclectic – a common story around here – but have taken to Close by is the white shell beach at mix of German and Indonesian island life with understandable gusto. tourgaliano.ca

Oceanview, one of many similar shell takeaway next to the dock. Shutterstock Getty Images; Alamy;

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SALT SPRING ISLAND for attracting creatives; it’s a condition Best for: Food and markets that everything on sale at the market Salt Spring is the largest and most is made or grown on the island, populous of the Gulf Islands with and you’ll find potters, jewellers, over 10,000 residents. The island has woodworkers, glassblowers, far more agriculture and open fields weavers, artists and organic food than any of the other islands, with producers by the dozen. over 200 working farms. Salt Spring Sadly, you can’t visit the salt springs is also renowned for its artisan food that gave the island its name – they’re producers, and visitors are well on private property at the north end recommended to try their wares. of the island – but there are enough There’s a Tuesday farmers’ market walks to entice people away from from June to October, and over satisfying their tastebuds. Ruckle a dozen restaurants serving local Provincial Park is one of a number food. Salt Spring lamb is renowned of reserves that offer hiking trails in Vancouver restaurants, and there beside the coast or up the island’s are over 450 varieties of apple trees seven peaks – keep an eye out for growing, some feeding a cidery; otters on the shoreline and there are artisan vodkas and gins as cormorants, guillemots and eagles well as two wineries to try in the trees. Or, if you feel like Visit the Saturday market at the relaxing, head to Vesuvius Beach island capital of Ganges for a vivid on the north-west coast for the sense of the Gulf Islands’ reputation warmest swimming waters. ⊲ Getty Images; Alamy; Shutterstock Getty Images; Alamy;

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Bird’s eye view (clockwise from left) Walking along the shores of ; the wing span of a can stretch up to 2.4m; Saturna Island and ; seals and seagulls on a rock Point

⊳ SATURNA ISLAND Not to be missed is East Point Best for: Relaxation where orca pods pass almost daily in With a population of just 350, Saturna summer, and sea lions and seals are is the most easterly and heavily nearly always basking on a small protected of the Gulf Islands, which island just off the headland. Close explains why it’s also probably the by is the restored fog alarm building least spoiled. To keep it that way, with a historical display open at around half of its fabulously forested weekends. To its south is another land has been placed in the Gulf promontory reached by an Islands National Park Reserve. Within enchanting walk, descending gently this is Mount Warburton Pike, a 401m through trees to Echo Bay and peak named after an early settler from Monarch Head with a view over Dorset who was the first to write and a whale route. travelogues on ; it The Lighthouse pub beside the offers a near 180-degree panorama Village Bay dock is the perfect place over to Pender and to rest while waiting for the ferry,

Vancouver islands. having two ocean-view patios. Alamy Shutterstock;

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092-102_GulfIslands_Canada_SO.indd 102 06/12/2019 18:49 density of electric cars per head Bay. A ine restaurant is lanked by Footnotes of population in Canada, with a 20 suites and well-equipped self- growing number of charging points. catering villas. There are also smart Only Salt Spring is large enough cars for hire. Rooms from C$169 [£97]. to have seasonal scheduled buses, The new Woodstone Manor on six routes. Mayne and Pender (woodstonegaliano.com) on Galiano Southern Gulf Islands, have community buses, and Mayne, has 12 luxurious bedrooms, most Pender and Salt Spring have a ‘Car overlooking a rare open valley, and Canada Stop’ scheme – stand by the sign the only large area of farmland. The and the next car will hopefully ask restaurant boasts a Michelin-starred where you want to go. There are chef. Rooms from C$225 [£130]. few roads so it works well and is Four Winds B&B a great way to meet the locals. (fourwindsb-b.com) has views from its shoreline location on Accommodation the north coast of Saturna Island. Vital statistics You can ind accommodation as Rooms from C$150 [£87]. Population: Depending on the cheaply as £50pn, but it could also island, between 300 and 10,500 cost almost £240. Food & drink Language: English Hastings House Country House There is a wide variety of places Time: GMTœ7 Hotel (hastingshouse.com) is to east, from food trucks to ine International dialling code: +1 Salt Spring Island’s inest hotel, dining. Fabulous fresh ish and Visas: Not required by UK overlooking Ganges Harbour and shellish are on every menu. nationals for short stays. However, TOP TIP built in the style of a Sussex manor On Salt Spring, try The Food visitors travelling to Canada by Deer wander freely house by a descendant of Warren Garden for an eclectic collection air require an electronic travel and show little Hastings. Rooms from C$405 [£230]. of food carts with the emphasis authorisation (eTA). Poets Cove Resort & Spa on local organic ingredients. fear of humans Money: The Canadian dollar (C$) (poetscove.com) on South Pender For a treat, head to Hastings or cars. Drive is currently around C$1.69 to Island o’ers Lodge, Villa or Cottage House Hotel. On Pender, Jo’s slowly at all times, the UK£. rooms, all overlooking the sea. You Place o’ers all-day food with especially around can also rent paddleboards and evening dishes such as jambalaya When to go blind bends. kayaks. Rooms from C$195 [£112]. skillet and imaginative salads. April to September: The Gulf Mayne Island Resort Jazz, recorded or live, may Islands receive far less rain than (mayneislandresort.com) lies on be playing at Mayne’s Groove Vancouver, with Pender, Saturna Bennett Bay at the eastern end of Kitchen, with lots of creative and Salt Spring islands having the island, with rooms in the inn lavour combinations on the a that and in nearby self-catering villas. menu. The Crane and Robin on allows production. The Kayak rental is available. Rooms Galiano serves a great chowder average summer temperature from C$159 [£92]. and salmon tacos with a view to does not usually exceed 23°C. Galiano Oceanfront Inn & Spa die for. So does the Lighthouse October to March: The wettest (galianoinn.com) is close to the Pub right on the water at Saturna’s months are from November ferry terminal and has a fabulous dock, appropriately big on the through to February, when many waterfront position on Sturdies fruits of the sea. hotels and restaurants close. Opening up a Gulf Further reading Getting there Rocks and tide pools ● Hiking the Gulf Islands: Air Canada (aircanada.co.uk, on Galiano Island An Outdoor Guide to BC’s 00 800 669 92222) ly from Enchanted Isles by Charles Kahn London Heathrow to (Harbour Publishing, 2004). Airport, via Vancouver (from £572 ● gulislandstourism.com – the return). The shortest journey time o«icial tourism site is from around 12 hours. to the Gulf Islands from are operated by BC Ferries (bcferries.com, +250 386 3431) More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/203 Getting around Bikes are a popular way to explore the Planning guides islands, though electric assistance ● Canada Travel Guide is welcome on some of the hillier Archive article

islands. Salt Spring has the highest ● Canada Trip Planner (issue 185) Alamy Shutterstock;

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