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study guide: ENGINEERED

Learning Objectives: • The features and benefits of the products you sell. • How to answer your customers’ product-related questions. • How to help your customer choose the right products. • How to increase transaction sizes by learning more about add-on sales and upselling techniques.

Module 1:

Product Knowledge:

How Plywood is Made Plywood is made with three or more thin sheets of wood (called veneers) that are bonded under heat and pressure with strong . The veneers are glued with their grains at right angles to each other for strength.

Plywood Grade Stamp A grade stamp can tell you a lot about a piece of plywood’s intended use. • Panel Grade. Refers to either the panel grade or the quality of the face and back veneers. • Thickness. Thickness of the panel. • Span Rating. On rated sheathing panels, this tells the maximum spacing between supports when the panel is used for roof or floor sheathing and laid so the long dimension runs across the supports. On , this tells the maximum stud spacing when the panel is applied vertically. • Tongue-and-. Sheathing panels may have edges along the length to stiffen the roof or floor between supports. • Exposure Durability. Refers to the glue used in the panel and tells you how moisture resistant the glueline in the panel is. It does not imply that the veneers have been treated in any way. • Mill Number. Every mill that is a member of a grading agency is assigned a unique number. The mill number tells where the panel was manufactured.

Hardwood Plywood • plywood is an appearance panel for use where engineered structural properties are not important, such as for cabinets and furniture. • It is graded according to its intended use, not according to hidden structural characteristics. • It has an outside veneer made from a hardwood such as , ash or . • The inside veneers can differ depending on the type of plywood. • One type is veneer core plywood. Panels up to 1/2” thick have three piles, or layers, while 1/2” and thicker have five or more. This type is fine for most applications, but may warp and not hold nails as well as other types. • Another type of plywood has cores of particleboard or MDF. It is used primarily in cabinet construction. This type is strong, flat and holds nails well.

1 Hardwood Plywood Grades • Plywood cores are graded according to their ability to withstand the weather. Type II is considered an interior panel and the most commonly sold type. • A-2 is the most commonly sold plywood grade. The front side is A grade, which means it is smooth and tight-cut. The veneer is also matched so the edges of the pieces appear parallel with tight edge joints, and with only small defects. The backside is 2 grade, which means the veneer does not need to be matched for color or grain. It allows a few more minor defects than the A side. • Other grades include A, B, 2, 3 and 4. A has the least defects and 4 has the most. • Common sizes are 1/8” to 3/4” thick. Sheets can be 4’x7’, 4’x8’ or 4’x10’.

Sanded Plywood • Sanded plywood is factory sanded and graded for appearance rather than for structural qualities. • It is used for many applications, from soffits to shelving, from cabinets to industrial crating. • Common sizes are 1/4” to 1-1/8” thick. Sheets are usually 4’x8’. • Sanded plywood is graded by the quality of its face and back veneers.

Sanded Plywood Grades • Here are some of the common grades of sanded plywood: • A-B grade is good for cabinets and bookshelves or where a smooth, paintable surface is needed on both sides. Front is A grade, back is B grade. Both A and B allows for defects to be repaired. • A-C grade is used in applications where one smooth side is needed. It has exterior exposure durability. Front is A grade, back is C grade. • B-C grade is for use in applications where a reasonable surface is required and economy is a major consideration. Often used for soffits. Front is B and back is C. C grade allows for some defects that aren’t filled. • C-C Plugged grade is used primarily for underlayment, where appearance is not important, but a solid base for carpet or other is. It has open defects filled and a face that is lightly sanded.

Sheathing • Sheathing is a performance-rated panel graded according to its structural characteristics rather than by its appearance. • It is manufactured and graded for strength and stiffness. • It can be manufactured as plywood, OSB or other wood-based panel. • Sheathing is used for floor, wall or roof sheathing in most residential applications. • Common thicknesses range from 5/16” to 3/4”. • Common size is 4’x8’, 4’x10’ is also available.

Sheathing Ratings • Exposure 2 rating: for interior or protected applications. • Exposure 1 rating: for Exposure 2 applications plus subflooring, roof or wall sheathing or in construction where a temporary weather exposure is necessary. • Exterior rating: for applications such as siding, , crates and for permanent weather exposure. • Structural 1 rating: for specially engineered applications that need extra strength, stiffness and shear strength.

2 Subfloor/Underlayment Panel • Subfloor/underlayment panels, sometimes called Sturd-I-Floor, combine subfloor and underlayment into a single application step. • They are graded according to their structural characteristics rather than by their appearance. • These panels are manufactured as plywood, OSB, or other wood-based panel. • They can also have tongue-and-groove or edges. • Common thicknesses range from 19/32” to 1-1/8”. • Common size is 4’x8’. • Subfloor/underlayment panels are rated by Exposure ratings: Exposure 1, Exposure 2 or Exterior.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is CDX plywood? A: CDX is one of the less expensive plywood you can buy. C and D refer to the grading of the front and back sides. They are rough and not meant for places where appearance matters. The X means it is rated for exterior use. However, it is only meant for limited exterior use. For permanent exterior use, use a panel with an exterior rating.

Q: What plywood can I use for making concrete forms? A: Try panels designed specifically for making concrete forms. These are also known as plyforms. They are filled and sanded on the face for a smooth concrete finish and oiled so they can be reused. They are exterior rated for durability and exposure to the weather.

Q: How do I keep plywood from splintering when I cut it? A: First of all, you’ll want to use a blade designed for cutting plywood, usually with small teeth. If you are using a handheld circular , place the good face, the face you want to be seen, downward. If you are using a , place the good face upward. This way, the only splintering occurs on the unseen face.

Q: What type of plywood should I use as a subfloor? A: Use plywood designed to be used as a subfloor. This kind is lightly sanded on one side and doesn’t have gaps or voids in the inner layers, making it sturdy enough to resist dents and punctures.

3 Upselling

• If customers want plywood for a fine project, such as making a piece of furniture, recommend they buy a good quality. Less expensive have thin face veneers that may sand down to the next layer. Lesser quality plywood may also split or crack along the edges when nailing or when making cuts for joints. They also may not be truly flat because of inconsistencies in the core. • A good recommendation for furniture projects is plywood with MDF layers under the hardwood veneer. The MDF gives the plywood strength when fastening and makes the surface flat. • Some sheathing products are fire-rated with a special non-combustible coating. While they are not fire proof, these products will slow the spread of fire.

Add-on Sales

• Ask if customers need any ’s pencils for marking cuts on plywood. • Suggest a blade, which has teeth specially designed to cut plywood. • Ask if your customers need any for smoothing edges after cuts. • Make sure customers have enough nails for plywood used for siding, sheathing or underlayment. • Customers using hardwood plywood for a woodworking project will likely use glue for attaching pieces. • Encourage customers to be safe when cutting plywood, by using safety glasses and ear protection.

Module 2: Engineered Beams

Product Knowledge:

Glued Laminated • Glued laminated lumber, also known as glulam, consists of wood layers, laminations, bonded with adhesives. Wood pieces are between 1” and 2” thick. • They are used in a wide variety of applications and classified according to appearance. and Industrial grades are only for concealed applications. Architectural and Premium grades are for exposed applications. • Glulams are available in stock or custom sizes. Common widths range from 2-1/2” to 10-3/4”. • There are two main types of glulams. Unbalanced beams use a higher quality lumber on the bottom (tension side) of the than on the top (compression side). Generally, these are intended for simple span operations. To ensure proper installation, the top of the beam is labeled TOP. • Balanced beams have the same lumber quality throughout. They are usually used for spans where both top and bottom will be highly stressed. • Some manufacturers offer treated glulams.

4 I- • An I-joist is an I-shaped framing member made of two flanges, one on the top and one on the bottom, and a web in the middle. • The flange can be either sawn lumber or composite. The web is usually OSB, or some other material. • May come with predrilled with holes for running plumbing and electrical systems. • I- are used for residential floor joist applications for superior strength and span abilities. They are identified by depth and by a designation such as PRI-40, which indicates joist stiffness and strength. • Use I-joist span tables to identify allowable span distances. • Manufactures may offer lengths up to 60’, which can be cut to custom lengths. • Typical depths are 9-1/2”, 11-7/8”, 14” and 16”. • Use an I-joist with a rim board, which is an engineered piece of lumber designed to provide structural support to the I-joist. It fills the space between the and the bottom .

Structural The next three types of beams we’ll talk about are known as structural composite lumber, or SCLs. This type of lumber is created by gluing together wood veneers or strands into billets, or blocks of material. Billets can be then sawed into specified sizes.

Laminated Veneer Lumber • , also known as LVL, is similar in construction to plywood. • Wood is removed from the log by peeling off the veneer. Then, wood veneers are bonded with exterior adhesives into long solid blocks called billets. • LVL is used for , headers, beams, joists, studs and columns. • It is available in lengths beyond the conventional lumber lengths, as well as a variety of thicknesses. The most common is 1-3/4”. • LVL exceeds strength properties of conventional lumber grades and has high strength in the long direction of the board.

Parallel Strand Lumber • Parallel strand lumber, also known as PSL, is made by cutting into strands. Then, the strands are laminated together with their grains parallel. • This type of lumber offers flexibility on curved surfaces. • It is often used in furniture, as well as structural applications such as beams, headers, columns and posts.

Laminated Strand Lumber • Laminated strand lumber, also known as LSL, is similar in appearance to OSB. • It is made from strands of wood up to 13” inches long. The strands are bonded with heat, pressure and . • This type is used for a broad range of applications, including headers, rim board, studs and plates.

5 Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the advantage of using glulam beams? A: Glulam beams can span long distances and they are much stronger than dimensional lumber. Glulam can also be engineered to meet specific construction requirements. They can also be left exposed as an architectural effect.

Q: How should I store glulams on the jobsite? A: Sunlight can discolor beams, so wrap them in an opaque covering, and keep them off the ground to prevent contact with moisture. In some cases, beams may be wrapped individually. Where appearance is important, you can unwrap beams after installation to avoid damage.

Q: How do I store I-joists? A: Do not store I-joists where they will have direct contact with the ground and protect them from the weather. It’s best to leave them bundled until you’re ready for installation. Always stack and handle I-Joists vertically and level. Also, remember that other than cutting to length, never make extra cuts, notches or holes in the I-joist, as this will compromise its integrity. You can make holes in the center web, just check the specifications established by the manufacturer.

Q: What is camber on a glulam beam? A: Camber is a bend or curvature in the beam built-in to correct for the load it will carry. It is usually used for long span applications and does not affect the strength of the beam. Camber is designated as “inches of camber” or as a radius. Zero camber beams are also available.

Q: How do I protect my floor joists against moisture? A: Besides making sure you take care of any drainage problems, provide adequate ventilation to the basement and use a ground cover vapor retarder in the crawl space.

Q: What type of lumber should I use for a garage door header? A: A garage door has a predictable load and span, and constructing one out of stock dimension lumber can be difficult. Try a laminated stock intended for use as a garage door header.

Upselling

• Better I-joists will have a fire resistant coating that allows them to meet fire protection code requirements.

Add-on Sales • Customers buying an I-joist will also need a rim board, which provides support to the joist. • Also ask if customers need joist hangers, nails or screws for attaching I-Joists. • Ask if customers need a saw blade for cutting lumber to the proper length. • Always recommend personal safety wear, including gloves, safety glasses and ear protection. Those working on a construction site may also need a safety hat.

6 Module 3: Engineered Panels

Product Knowledge:

High-Density • High-density hardboard, usually referred to simply as “hardboard,” is made from specially engineered compressed under heat and pressure. • Hardboard is used for underlayment, for curved forms and in industrial applications. • It is usually 1/8” or 1/4” thick and comes in 4’x8’ or 4’x10’ sheets. • Another type of hardboard is medium-density, which is used in cabinet . It is usually 7/16” thick, and comes in 4’x8’ or 4’x10’ sheets. • It is available in different grades. • Standard grade hardboard is smooth on one side with a screen back. It is not water-resistant and cuts, and nails easily. • Tempered grade hardboard is dense, water-resistant and smooth on both sides. • Most manufactures paint a bright green stripe on the edges of standard hardboard and a bright red stripe on the edges of tempered hardboard. • The Underlayment grade hardboard is less dense than standard hardboard. It absorbs glue and is easy to . It can also be embossed to look like , stucco or other materials. Underlayment grade hardboard may come pre-primed or pre-finished. It comes in 4’x4’ sheets.

Particleboard • Particleboard consists of wood particles bonded with and formed into panels under heat and pressure. • It has a smooth surface, solid core and resists warping. • However, it has little structural strength and will swell and disintegrate when wet. • Particleboard is used for floor underlayment and in manufacturing cabinets, furniture and doors. • Standard grade particleboard is primarily used in underlayment and general construction. • Premium grade particleboard is more dense and used in making cabinets and countertops. • Thickness ranges from 1/4” to 1-1/8”.

Medium Density • Medium density fiberboard, also known as MDF, consists of wood fibers bonded together with under heat and pressure. • While it looks like particleboard, it is smoother and has other characteristics that make it superior to particleboard. • MDF has smooth, tight edges that resist the flaking and chipping common to particleboard.

7 • It also holds screws well, especially on the edges. • MDF is used to make furniture, cabinets, doors, millwork and flooring, and is common in industrial and manufacturing applications. • It is available in 1/4” to 1-1/2” thickness.

Oriented Strand Board • , also known as OSB, consists of wood strands laid in three or more directionally oriented layers at right angles to each other, like plywood veneers. Layers are bonded with resin under heat and pressure. • OSB is equal in strength to engineered plywood, and stronger than particleboard because the strands are longer and more uniform in size. • OSB is used for roof decking, furniture, floor sheathing and joist building.

Structural Insulated Panel • Structural insulated panels are also known as SIPs, sandwich panels or foam core panels. • They consist of thick plastic foam sandwiched between two structural wood panels. • This construction provides insulating value with a panel that contributes to the structure’s overall stiffness. • Used for roof and wall panels, as well as floors and dormers and window bays. • Also used in place of traditional framing, sheathing and insulation in some applications. • Generally custom manufactured for specific applications.

Cross-Laminated Timbers • Made by gluing together several layers of boards stacked in alternating directions. These are then pressed into large panels. • They are usually cut to size at the mill and may even include door and window openings. • They may also come sanded or prefinished. • They are lightweight, strong, easy to install and generate almost no waste at the worksite.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Will OSB expand and contract like plywood? A: OSB has a tendency to expand and contract, although manufacturers have come out with better resins that have made them more stable. When installing OSB as a subflooring or roof decking, space the panels 1/4” apart. But in terms of strength, OSB and plywood are mostly interchangeable. Both are manufactured to the same performance standards.

Q: What should I use to fasten the subfloor? A: Use a construction adhesive to glue it to the joists, then use 8d common nails.

Q: What is the benefit of engineered lumber over solid timber? A: Engineered lumber may be available in longer lengths and is more uniform than solid timber; it doesn’t have knots, warping or cupping. Since it is engineered, it is designed for certain loads and stresses. It also uses less wood than solid timber and makes better use of our resources. Engineered lumber is tested by the manufacturer to ensure it will withstand a certain load. If you know what your load requirements are and buy a piece rated to withstand that load, then you can be sure the laminated lumber you buy is as strong as a single piece of timber. In fact, a laminated piece, especially in longer lengths, may be easier to find. Also, thick timbers are more difficult to dry properly, while laminated pieces are made from all kiln-dried material.

8 Q: What are the different types of overlaid panels? A: Overlaid panels come in two different grades: HDO, or high-density overlaid, and MDO, or medium-density overlaid panels. HDO panels come in Concrete Form and Industrial grades. The Industrial grade is used for highly demanding applications, such as highway panels and industrial tanks. MDO panels come in Concrete Form and General grades. The General grade is ideal for exterior applications where the panel will be covered with paint or other coating.

Upselling

• One of the concerns of cutting and using composite panels is that they contain . The dust created from cutting these products can be harmful to your health. Better composite panels are made with resins that have little or no formaldehyde and follow strict low VOC and environmental safety standards.

Add-on Sales • Customers installing OSB as a subfloor will need construction adhesive and a caulk gun. They will also need nails. • Customers using particleboard will want glue or specially-designed screws for holding pieces together. • Ask if customers need a new saw blade for cutting the boards. • Also ask if they need extra carpenter’s pencils for marking cuts. • Recommend a dust mask to avoid breathing the fine dust created from composite panels. Also recommend safety glasses, gloves and ear protection.

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