AIRWAVES DAILY2005 ISSUE 3 of 3 GRAPEVINE SUNDAY Grapevine Airwaves 2005 {  } Sunday October 23 – Issue 3 of 3 Sunday.schedule

A special bonus day of fabulous music, Reykjavík Art Museum free for anyone with a festival bracelet. Gaukur á stöng

NASA Gaukur á Stöng Pravda The National Theatre New Radio (US) The Rushes (UK) Sign Grand Rokk Pétur Ben Plus many special guests.

In no specific order, starting at20:30. (Doors open at 20:00.)

EDITORIAL CONSUMER NOTICE

Why Music Journalists Aren’t the Absolute Lowest Form of Life… at Least, Why Our Music Journalists Aren’t

By BART CAMERON As I write this editorial, I am waiting for Christian Hoard of Rolling Stone to Keep your issues return from his second round of concerts in the evening. He left here smiling ear to ear, putting a cigarette back into his mouth after having just coughed All three issues combine to form one, ultra-powerful Airwaves keepsake. Use the cover to Issue up a sizeable amount of discharge, his eyes blood red from an infection Three, Sunday, as your outer folder. Then place Issue One, Friday, inside, followed by Issue Two, compounded by lack of sleep. On the way out the door, he said “Thanks again Saturday, and then the bulk of Issue Three, Sunday. for this.” And he was serious. christian, Bart, Genevieve, and Patricia used vacation from prominent publications to fly thousands of miles and work like dogs for absolutely no pay Okay, it ain’t simple. But life ain’t simple. on two-hour deadlines; this is to say nothing about the ungodly hours that our six other full-time festival journalists, and 35 other employees—most of them temporary—worked to put out a daily magazine for a relatively obscure music festival. why did they do it? Talking with the range of other journalists and industry people at this year’s festival, I heard more than once that Iceland is hip and full of beautiful people. The world, New York and London want Iceland, I’ve been told. but anybody who would say something like this could never write for The Grapevine. We’re not huge fans of vague stereotypes and generalizations, and the idea that a whole country can become hip suggests that countries might become unhip—say with a natural catastrophe or economic depression. our writers spent time covering the music here because it is viable art, and because the art humanizes a people that are easily overlooked. Returning to Christian Hoard, who has now strolled into my office screaming about Þórír, I should point out that he came to my attention because of his work on The Mountain Goats, a band from that bleeding edge cultural hotspot Ames, Iowa. Hoard had been able to convey the excitement of listening to John Darnielle’s lyrics—breathing in someone else’s culture, while connecting at a basic human level. And Hoard and all of our writers have hopefully shared their excitement about making these connections in the last few days working here.

one final note: Good riddance to Mr. Blasengame. Being the second best writer named Bart for my own damned paper was flat out humiliating.

TUNE IN

A helpful sponsored reminder: RÁS 2 99.9 FM will offer live concert coverage of this year’s Airwaves, just as they have done of every Iceland Airwaves since 1999.

They will be covering the following venues: Wednesday: Grand Rokk Thursday: Reykjavík Art Museum and Nasa Friday: Reykjavík Art Museum and Gaukur á Stöng Saturday: Reykjavík Art Museum

MASTHEAD GRAPEVINEAIRWAVESDAILYSUNDAYOCTOBER232005

Published by: Edtior: Bart Cameron On cover: Juliette and the Licks Fröken ehf. Photo Editor: Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon Cover photo by: Árni Torfason Faxagata 2, Art Direction: Thanks to: Mr. Destiny and Icelandair Faxaskála við Faxaport Hörður Kristbjörnsson Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. 101 Reykjavík Gunnar Þorvaldsson Copies: 15.000 Tel: 540-3600 Layout: Þorleifur Kamban Proofreader: Erika Wolfe Walkman er alæta á tónlist Þú getur hlaðið 100 gargandi góðum lögum inn í nýja Walkman símann.*

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are in bands themselves, so maybe they Don’t you think that in putting The Opposition Enters want to hear something different, and do up chicken wire you were kind of something different. asking for it? All of Rass: Yes, yes. Decade Two So you think the other musicians in Óttar: We also had one show where the the scene are supportive? audience ended up tearing down the Óttar: Yes. We’ve never owned any chicken wire. An Interview with RASS instruments, for example. Equipment has Björn: We wanted to try it out. We’ve never been a problem. never done it again.

What you were saying earlier Are you hoping that the political about 15 songs in 20 minutes seems message in your songs will inspire By Paul F Nikolov Photo: GÚNDI Óttar: The lyrics are maybe only eight like a strong influence from early people to act? words or so. 80s hardcore punk. Björn: We’re not trying to force anything >>> This year marks the ten-year Þórgeir: I only go up to ten. Óttar: That might be part of it. But it’s on anybody, but maybe our lyrics get anniversary of the creation of punk outfit Óttar: They’re usually pretty simple. It’s also that the songs are so old that we get people talking about things they don’t Rass (Ass). After playing about one show our strength, especially for our audience tired of playing them. normally think about. a year for many years, their first album, of below five. Björn: Yeah, we just want to get them Óttar: Obviously the reason is to say Andstaða (Opposition), released earlier Björn: They’re very to the point. Basically over with. something. But as Icelandic musicians this year, has made quite an impact and against something. Óttar: Well, they’re simple songs, so why we’re not used to being listened to as put the band on stage about two dozen Óttar: That’s the philosophy that’s been play a simple song for three minutes? much, so it’s not a very serious political times this year. What accounts for the built up over the years. The politics of Everyone’s going to get bored by it, statement. Which is why we’re a bit taken recent surge of interest? The Grapevine opposition. especially us. I would say some of the aback when somebody is listening. The spoke to Rass to find out. <<< best songs on the album are the shortest motive is very important. It seems as though there’s been ones, the ones under a minute. And also Why did it take you ten years to a resurgence in recent years of because there’s just one political lyrical And what would you say the motive write one album’s worth of songs? bands playing louder and faster. concept to each song, usually with the is? Óttar: We had been in bands with a very How do you account for that? same line being shouted, and there’s only Óttar: The motive is opposing; being in strict structure of writing songs and Björn: I think it comes in waves. Maybe so long you can do that. opposition even if there are only two making albums and so on. So the first people are getting a bit tired of the lo-fi people listening. idea was to do the opposite of that. We shit. One of the things I’ve always liked never rehearsed and didn’t have a set list. Þórgeir: The krúttkynslóð (the “cute about going to a punk rock show >>> Rass played Reykjavík Art Museum Before going on stage we’d talk about generation,” an appellation given to many is the high energy, which can often on Saturday, Oct. 22. <<< what issue the song was about and maybe modern Icelandic musicians, including inspire some interesting behaviour in what key, and then we’d go out onstage Múm and Sigur Rós). in people. What’s the craziest thing and do it. But then over a period of ten Óttar: You have so many slow bands out you’ve seen going on in the crowd years we started to remember some songs there that if you want to get through, you at one of your shows? ¬ Singer Óttar of Rass, who also serves as a vocalist in from our previous concert. have to do something else. Björn: (to Óttar) How about that show at the party band Doctor Spock, is a book buyer for the Björn: Which was maybe a year before. Þórgeir: Icelandic bands are supposedly Grand Rokk when we were playing behind Mál og Menning bookstore. He is also a novelist. We played only once a year for a long influenced by elves. We’re not influenced chicken wire? People were throwing beer ¬ The Rass album Andstaða received the best review time. Now when we play these songs, what by elves, OK? bottles at us and everything. the Grapevine has ever given to a new release. seems like improvization is more like us Björn: You get tired of playing the same Óttar: There’s a beautiful moment that trying to remember the songs. chord for a whole minute. Why not have 15 we caught on video where someone threw songs in 20 minutes? a beer bottle and it stuck in the chicken The lyrical content is pretty Óttar: I think it’s also because often the wire, by its neck. That was really nice. minimal. same people coming to the concerts AIRWAVES 2005 Í SKÍFUNNI!

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Skífan Laugavegi open until 22 every day · Skífan Smáralind Mall · Skífan Kringlan Mall · www.skifan.is { 54 } Sunday October 23 – Issue 3 of 3 INTERVIEW

You need to be in a tuxedo Life After the Prom Gowns to play punk rock. Halli: Yeah, maybe it brings out the punk in me. An Interview with Æla Sveinn: If you’re going to play punk you could at least look good. Halli: I think I might be in a new costume for the Airwaves show, By Paul F Nikolov Photo: GÚNDI actually dancing when we were but I can’t say what it will be. It playing, and we were playing could be anything. >>> Æla (Vomit) is a punk band during another band’s break. The from Keflavík – the birthplace band asked us to leave after two So it could be a prom of Icelandic rock – and are songs, but it was a really good dress? known for their explosive live show. Halli: Well – performances, as well as their tendency to stand on chairs Halli, I noticed that you Maybe a toga? while playing. The Grapevine like to play standing on a Halli: Let’s just say I’m not sat down with Halli, Sveinn, chair. going to be one of the brides Ævar and Hafþór to give our Halli: Always. If you’ve got in Brúðarbandið (a band known readers an idea of what to expect something special about yourself, for wearing wedding gowns on from their show during Iceland you have to point it out. But it’s stage). Airwaves. <<< also an extension of the stage. I’ve fallen quite a few times. What should the foreign Is it true you formed your Sveinn: I have no idea why he press coming here for band for beer? uses a chair actually. It started Airwaves know about the Halli: We decided to play a show out he brought a chair to Icelandic music scene? in Sandgerði, because you’d get rehearsal and played on it. Halli: That the bands who play a case of beer if you played. So here are playing from the heart. we decided to form a band. Is this a special chair you You don’t make any money bring with you, or do you playing music here. They’re not For a case of beer? use whatever chair is in it for the money. Halli: Yeah. And that’s about it. available at the show? Sveinn: Most of the Icelandic Sveinn: But it had to be a punk Halli: I use whatever chair is bands playing try to do whatever band. there. It would be a lot of trouble they want to do. They don’t have Halli: It was the Sailor’s Day to always bring our own chair. anything to lose. bands in Sandgerði. And as you But I’ve considered getting a I]Z8jaijgZ=djhZ probably know, Sandgerði is a big designer to make me a special >>> Æla play Grand Rokk on sailor town. chair. We were all playing on Saturday, Oct. 22. <<< BZY^ZkVabVcjhXg^eih":YYVhVcYHV\VhVcYdi]ZgZm]^W^i^dchXVhia^\]i chairs at the Sandgerði show. dc>XZaVcY»hXjaijgVaXdcig^Wji^dchVcYgZaVi^dchl^i]i]ZldgaYViaVg\Z# And sailors love punk Sveinn: And we’ve played a lot of lll#i]_dYbZcc^c\#^h rock? concerts where we were wearing ¬ Æla is from Keflavík, the birthplace of Halli: No, actually we decided dresses and he (pointing at Halli) rock in Iceland, and the home to the UN :m]^W^i^dchVgZdeZcYV^an NATO base — these two facts about Kefla- [gdb&&Vbid*eb to form a punk band to shock as was wearing a tuxedo. He always many people as we could, both wears a tuxedo. vík are not coincidental. with loud punk music and with a Halli: I think that’s just because loud stage performance. when you put on a show, it’s supposed to be festive. I’ve tried Hence the name. So how did playing in my regular clothes and =kZg[^h\ViV&*"&%&GZn`_Vk†`"IZa/ (*)*)*&)%% the sailors react? I just don’t get the same feeling. Sveinn: There were people

{ 56 } Sunday October 23 – Issue 3 of 3 INTERVIEW

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of the Bands. I have to say, We Remember Who as a spectator, I was taken aback by the Jakobínarína attitude. You seemed so Threw Us Out cocky, that it was off- putting. What am I not An Interview with Jakobínarína getting? Gunnar: It’s our reputation. The band in second place, Hello By Bart Cameron with help from Iggy when? Norbert, they were a good typical Sniff of Singapore Sling Sigurður: Since always. indie band. We Painted the Walls, photo: julia staples they were good. And Iggy, you’ve had a Iggy: Are you a typical indie >>> Since winning the Icelandic straight edge member of band? Battle of the Bands this Singapore Sling. Gunnar: No. year, a little has changed for Iggy: Never. Jakobínarína—they have free But the complaint is that practice space, and more Þórír. the Manchester influence people know them. The youth Iggy: Oh. That was just a… well, is too strong. and energy that got so much he played for last Airwaves. He’s Sigurður: It’s really cool. attention during the competition a strange guy. Gunnar: I don’t listen to that has continued to attract fans, but many Manchester bands. A little the same youthfulness has kept He’s straight edge and Joy Division, but not much. We them from being fully involved promising. I think sobriety like it, but we don’t think let’s in the scene. Gunnar, Hallberg, helps. copy that. We just play what Sigurður and Heimir sat down Iggy: It’s difficult being straight comes to our heads and people with the Grapevine to discuss life edge and being a troubadour like say it’s like the Manchester after the battle. <<< him. Cat Power, she drinks like a scene. I don’t think so. Laugavegur 70 bottle or two of whiskey before www.hsh.efh.is she gets on stage. And even then It has to be difficult, as a Another young band from she might break down and run young band, to not sound Hafnarfjörður—what is off stage. like your influences. that town doing to develop You almost have to plan so many young musicians? Which kind of happened against it. Lada Sport, Úlpa, Sign, Pan. when she played in Iggy: So did you see Happy Gunnar: We got a free practice Reykjavík for Innipúkinn. Mondays play when they came space… after we won. Gunnar: We were kicked out of here? J]qcbYn‰c&&&&&& Iggy: Hafnarfjörður? Have you Innipúkinn. Gunnar: (Laughing) That would heard the new Sign album? be when? l`jgm_`[Yl¢k]q]k Sigurður: We’re playing with Hard core. Was it the Iggy: In 1990. them on Monday at a student straight edger? Were you Gunnar: I missed it. I think I was ;mdlmjYdoYdcklgjql]ddaf_ party in Hafnarfjörður. being punk rock? one. Iggy: That’s right; that is a weird Gunnar: No, we were underage. oal`;mdlmjYd;gehYfagf:ajfY place. People out there have How many of you were in concerts on Mondays. Quick statement of ages. the womb? Wait a second, =ph]ja]f[]J]qcbYn‰c\goflgofl`jgm_`l`][Yl¢k And we’re playing a show this Gunnar: (Pointing) 15, 16, 19, 15, the timing is close, this ]q]kZq^gddgoaf_alkhYl`k&:alkYf\ha][]kYZgml Friday at Kaffi Hljómalind, a 17. And our keyboardist is not could explain the sound. benefit show against animal here, and he’s young, too. Iggy: If you’re that young, do you l`]hYklYf\l`]hj]k]flg^J]qcbYn‰c¢kYdd]qk$ cruelty. Iggy: You’re a six piece. So who have trouble playing at bars? klj]]lkYf\alkh]ghd]&L`][YlakYoYc]o`]fgl`]jk plays the tambourine? Hallberg: Our first gig, at Bar kd]]h$l`]j]^gj]]Yjdq`gmjkYj]fgl]p[dm\]\ What? are you vegetarians? 11, we got thrown out. But after Do we have members of the Silence. that, we haven’t had too much straight edge movement trouble. >> Jakobínarína played Grand Eafaeme2Logh]jkgfk =%eYad2ZajfY8ZajfY&ak (Laughing) No. Rokk on Wednesday, Oct. 19. <<< gj0&(((AKC& L]d&20.*0(+) Sigurður: I am straight edge. You guys referred to the Jakobínarína, turning: Since bad bands at the Battle

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LAUGAVEGUR 55 Grapevine Airwaves 2005 { 66 } Sunday October 23 – Issue 3 of 3

SWIM The Most Fun You Can Have in Reykjavík with Your Clothes Off

BY BART CAMERON Laugardalslaug Reason we like it: With an Olympic-sized pool, pool. First things first, if you’re reading this, then you know English and are Laugardaslaug is also located next to the youth Typical Quote: Lífið er dásamlegt. (Life is therefore suspect: if you decide to go to any pool in Iceland, you’ll have to take hostel, next to World Class gym, and next to good.) off all your clothes and scrub your crotch in front of a bunch of other people one of the best hot dog stands in town. The before entering the pool. If you aren’t public enough about scrubbing yourself, crowd is diverse; you are most likely to strike up Open weekdays from 06:45 to 20:30, Saturdays people will think you’re a modest Englishman, American or Frenchie, and they’ll a conversation with a tourist here. But you are and Sundays from 08:00 until 17:30. yell at you. So be prepared to do some parading. also most likely to see people who really enjoy their gym time. Vesturbæjarlaug What would be so fun that it would be worth shoving your wedding tackle Reason we don’t live here: Odd tendency Reason we like it: Located near the University about in front of a mass of strangers? (That is assuming you don’t just enjoy for locals to swim using FLIPPERS and other of Iceland, and in the historically open-minded the aforementioned act.) Well, it’s swimming in geothermal pools (all pools in devices. Locker room is often overcrowded, and but working class neighbourhood of Vesturbær, Reykjavík are heated by geothermal energy). swimming 50-meter lengths can be daunting. this pool has a reputation among some as a gay Typical Quote: How do you like Iceland? pool. We have seen nothing to suggest that any Why is swimming fun? A few key reasons: 1) By standing in warm water, one can pool is more gay than any other, but there are be outdoors in any temperature or weather and still enjoy physical comfort. Open on weekdays from 6:50 to 22:00, fewer homophobe types, which is nice. Want to watch Northern Lights, you’ll be fine. Want to look at a sunset, you’re Saturdays and Sundays from 8:00 to 20:00. Reason we don’t live here: This pool is golden. Want to just get a little sun despite the bone-chilling cold, all good. especially popular for young parents, and the 2) Warm water relaxes most people. It’s a basic thing. And there aren’t many Seltjarnarnesslaug children can intrude a little on the tranquillity. negative side effects to standing in warm water for hours. 3) If you go to the Reason we like it: Salt water pool with a very Typical Quote: When the hydrogen bus leaves effort of swimming, (not usually done by Icelanders), it makes your heart feel local crowd, this is the most relaxed pool in in six months, something will have to be done good. 4) Locals go the same pool regularly, and they go there sober. Relaxed town. Except on Sundays, when unruly ocean to show that we’re committed to reform. and warm, they often speak with each other. The pools are the place to get a swimmers crash the pool after their chilling feel for your local community. Atlantic swim. Open on weekdays from 6:30 to 22:00, Reason we don’t live here: The pool Saturdays and Sundays from 8:00 to 20:00. Here is a list of our favourite pools, with reasons we like them, reasons we is frequented by locals, and none of us don’t live there, and typical quotes from a day at each pool. live in Seltjarnarnes. If we move to that neighbourhood, we will definitely live at this

Seltjarnarnesslaug

Laugardalslaug &&"&&H`aV\ViV &&"&&AVj\VkZ\jg DeZcBdcYVn";g^YVn/%."') DeZc')]djgh HVijgYVnHjcYVn/&%"')

&&"&&8dckZc^ZcXZHidgZ 9dlcIdlcGZn`_Vk†` ™;gZh]anWV`ZYeVhig^Zh ™;gZh]Xd[[ZZ ™HVaVYWVg Grapevine Airwaves 2005 { 68 } Sunday October 23 – Issue 3 of 3

EAT Grapevine Guide to Vegetarian Eating… You Murdering BASTARD

BY PAUL F NIKOLOV Not too shabby, especially with unlimited bread and hummus to go along with it. Across the street is Kaffi Hljómalind, which advertises itself as a nonprofit As most fruits and vegetables have to be imported, they tend to organic café. Meals there hover around 1000 ISK while offering sidewalk dining be more expensive than locally raised, grass-fed meat-makers. in nice weather, which makes for great people-watching as this restaurant is on But it is possible to eat vegetarian in Iceland. Laugavegur. Not only can you watch people from your perch at Hljómalind, you can judge them as inferior, both for eating meat, and for eating for profit. Shopping Beyond the cosmic vegetarian block, in the more distant but just as worthy On the low end of vegetarian shopping, there’s always our favourite standby, Borgartún, is Maður Lifandi, a combination vegetarian restaurant/health food Bónus. At the time of this writing, whole wheat flour is going for 68 ISK/kg, store. The vegetarian dining is consistent there, but most of the clientele— loose potatoes for 47 ISK/kg, and onions are going for a laughable 1 ISK/kg. A typically a rush around lunch and early dinner – are interested in the organic kilo of onions for a single króna – don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t live chicken, said to be the only not sugar-saturated chicken in Iceland. the high life in this country. On the higher end is Heilsuhúsið. This corner store The most traditional way to eat vegetarian in Iceland, though, is to eat at is a hybrid of vegetarian shop, vegan shop, gourmet shop, miniature library an Asian restaurant. Shalimar, a North Indian restaurant, has an extensive and small pharmacy. Here you’ll find more than the standard bird-and-rabbit vegetarian menu. There you can eat your fill for between 1200 ISK and 1500 food fare of most vegetarian shops: for those uncertain how to eat healthier ISK. A little further west is Krua Thai, which we personally consider to be – vegetarian or otherwise – there are a few shelves of books on the subject the best Thai restaurant in town: large portions and limitless rice, with most to choose from. The current meat alternative – soy meat – is for sale there meals under 1000 ISK. Smack-dab in the middle of downtown is Indokína, a for 350 ISK/500g. Organic fruits and vegetables are also available, but with combination Chinese-Vietnamese restaurant with a number of soy, noodle and grapefruits going for 622 ISK/kg and oranges for 422 ISK/kg, you might be vegetarian dishes that are all reasonably priced. better off just eating the pesticides on regular fruit and hoping for the best. Bónus, Laugavegur 59, 562 8200 Maður lifandi, Borgartún 24, 585 8700 Dining Out Heilsuhúsið, Skólavörðustígur 12, 568 9266 Shalimar, Austurstræti 4, 551 0292 Through some New Age twist of fate, three of Reykjavík’s vegetarian Grænn Kostur, Skólavörðustígur 8, 552 2028 Krua Thai, Tryggvagata 14, 561 0039 restaurants are located within a few seconds’ walk from each other. Á næstu grösum, Laugavegur 20b, 552 8410 Indokína, Laugavegur 19, 552 2399 Grænn Kostur boasts heaping portions of both vegan and vegetarian fare Kaffi Hljómalind, Laugavegur 21, 517 1980 with most meals under 1000 ISK. Two blocks away is Á Næstu Grösum, a restaurant that might change their menu now and then but always has the same prices: 1200 ISK for lunch, 1490 ISK for dinner, and 550 ISK for soup.

LOOK Napoleon Banggangomite

BY BART CAMERON

This summer, an exhibit from the Culture House, The Road to Zion, displayed just how much of an impact Icelanders have had in the American West, with 28,000 ancestors in Utah alone. Maybe this is the reason that a recent film from Idaho, Napoleon Dynamite, seems so incredibly Icelandic. Perhaps it is filmmaker Jared Hess’s dedication to landscape in contrast with a closed and isolated society. Or perhaps it is just that the title character, played by Idaho native Jon Heder, looks and talks exactly like one of Iceland’s most famous exports, Barði Jóhannsson of Bang Gang. The love interest of Napoleon, Deb, also bears a striking resemblance to another famous Icelandic singer. It’s the journey, not the destination

The best and easiest way to get to know the rugged beauty of Iceland is simply to have your own car. We are your car rental experts in Iceland.

Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, ÍSLENSKA AUGLÝSINGASTOFAN/SIA.IS HER 29862Ísafjörður, 10/2005 Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir. +354 50 50 600 • www.hertz.is worm is green Villi wears: black jeans by Henrik Vibskov, customized hoodie by NOKI @ KRON black Doc martins from SpÚÚtnik. Dúdda wears: Junya Watanabe dress from Nakti Apinn, flower hairpiece by Thelma @ Kron and red suede shoes from Spúútnik Photo by Gúndi Stylist: Anna Clausen design [email protected]

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