ye! i’m leavin’ it©

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Issue 17 – November 6 - December 3 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!

Three reasons why Icelanders will miss McDonalds

McDonalds employees are happy.

McDonalds burgers contain real beef.

Ronald McDonald loves children. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 2

Editorial | Haukur S Magnússon On-line News Editor ye! i’m leavin’ it© Paul Nikolov YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Issue 17 – November 6 - December 3 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! Three reasons why Icelanders will miss McDonalds [email protected]

McDonalds employees Haukur’s 17th Editorial are happy. Art Director: Now Is A Great Time To Believe In Nothing McDonalds burgers Hörður Kristbjörnsson contain real beef. [email protected] So, they’re throwing this National Assembly support this experiment, and I really do hope Repeated exposure to all this begets an Design: event next weekend. The idea is to round up Ronald McDonald it provides some results we can work with. urge to turn on, tune in, drop out. To retreat loves children. Jóhannes Kjartansson a random selection of 1.500 folks and attempt Because frankly, we need all the fucking help to slackerdom, to empty cynicism, partying [email protected] to siphon from them an idea of Icelanders’ we can get here. Right. Now. and bullshit (as if my generation could retreat Photographers: shared core values, beliefs and ambitions for Let me elaborate: I cannot imagine that even further into those areas – I suppose it’s Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com Cover Illustration by: the future of their nation, so as to decipher anyone that has been closely following the possible). To abandon all ideas of seeking Julia Staples / juliastaples.com what sort of society the people wish to build. discourse in Iceland – whether it takes place social justice, of building a fair society, of any Hugleikur Dagsson They then plan on devising how we can best in Alþingi, in the news, on blogs or at the bar sort of vision for the future. Sales Director: Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. achieve these shared goals and visions for a – is able to do so without turning hopeless, To lock the doors, pull the drapes, shut the Aðalsteinn Jörundsson mutual future. apathetic or outright nihilistic. blinds and try and forget about the rest of the [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine The organisers pledge to make the outcome Every politician seems to be working world. Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík [email protected] easily accessible and publicly available, so strictly under the M.O. of securing and If you cannot turn down the static, maybe www.grapevine.is Distribution: politicians and authorities can consult with safeguarding PARTY INTERESTS and their create some of your own. [email protected] [email protected] it when forming policy. The idea is to try and own position, of gaining or retaining power, I seriously hope this National Assembly Published by Fröken ehf. Proofreader: build a better society, one that reflects the of scoring points and winning arguments. event yields some results. Or that something Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Jim Rice shared goals and ideas of its citizens. Of course there are exceptions. They are not yields some results. Anything at all. That we Association - www.saf.is I don’t know about the methods they plan many. can once again instil faith in our people that Press releases: on using, and I’ve no idea if this assembly Every pundit seems intent on ignoring someone out there isn’t solely motivated by Editorial: [email protected] will produce valuable – or indeed any – what every other pundit has to say, to type self-preservation and the will to power. +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Submissions inquiries: results. In fact, some of the terms they’re louder than the next one, to align him or For if we carry on the route we’ve been Advertising: [email protected] using to promote the event (‘Open Source herself with a faction of choice and upholding treading for the past year, future generations +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Subscription inquiries: Government,’ and ‘The Wisdom of the Crowd’ their line or their PARTY INTERESTS without of Icelanders may become even more cynical, Publisher: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] for instance) sound like empty catchphrases or any attempt at discussion at all. Of course jaded and indifferent than the current ones. +354 540 3601 / [email protected] General inquiries: [email protected] vapid pop psychologies. there are exceptions. They are not many. And that would be totally uncool, I guess. Publisher: I’m not really sure what to think about Of course this isn’t news to anyone over Learn more about the National Assembly at Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson any of this. I have my doubts. I still gladly the age of twelve. www.thjodfundur2009.is Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, [email protected] Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Editor: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Haukur S Magnússon Valur Gunnarsson Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 Journalist: times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from Catharine Fulton / [email protected] November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this Contributing Writers: magazine may be reproduced in whole or Sigurður K Kristinsson in part without the written permission of Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine Haukur Már Helgason is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and Valur Gunnarsson at key locations along road #1, and all major Bob Cluness tourist attractions and tourist information Dr. Gunni centres in the country. Rebecca Louder Samuel Knight Mistakes, Regrets Hugleikur Dagsson Last issue, we inadvertently attributed Lóa’s Paul F Nikolov review of the graphic novel Dungeon to Étienne Ljóni Poisson Hugleikur Dagsson. Sorry, Lóa. Satu Rämö Aðalsteinn Jörundsson We also left out the names of some of the Bóas Hallgrímsson restaurants the Bedroom Community crew recommended. They were as follows: Sturla Editorial Interns: Mio Þórisson’s favourite is Boston; Valgeir Louise Petersson / [email protected] Sigurðsson’s is 101 Hotel. Michael Vladimir Zelenko / [email protected] You may not like it, but at least it's not Are You A ‘Blogger’? Do You ‘Blog’? sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík www.grapevine.is Food Editor: Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions Sari Peltonen expressed are the writers’ own, not the If so, Grapevine wants you. Maybe. advertisers’).

We hear blogging is all the rage these days. We hear blogs can provide the modern individual with a refuge for contemplation and joy, that they are fine places to get a daily dose of studied discourse Snorri Helgason and enlightening commentary on day to day issues, as well as profound questions that have haunted Don’t Let Her man for aeons. MUSIC & snorrihelgason NIGHT We hear blogs are great places to get informed on such varied topics as The Arts, Politics, The LIFE Download the track of the issue Don’t Entertainment Industry, Gossip, Vast Global Conspiracies and People’s Lives. Let Her at www.grapevine.is You will know Snorri Helgason from his outstanding We hear you can make some money off blogs, too. TRACK OF THE ISSUE songwriting for Sprengjuhöllin (not to mention his singing and guitar work in that same band). Having toured the world twice We want in on all this sweet, sweet money... er... discourse. So as of RIGHT NOW, we are calling out Download your over and released two well received albums within the confines free copy at to active bloggers that blog in English and are based in Iceland or write about Iceland-related topics. grapevine.is of Sprengjuhöllin, Snorri is now hard at work finishing his first We wish to post their blogs on our web-site, www.grapevine.is, so we may score advertising cash and solo album, to be released this month via Borgin Records. We promote enlightened dialogue within our community. got a sneak preview of the, frankly, strangely titled I’m Gonna Put My Name On Your Door, and we are happy to report that If you believe your blog does not suck, and that it should be featured on our site, do drop us a line to the record sounds all sorts of excellent. [email protected]. Our free track of the month, Don’t Let Her, is one of the album’s standout songs, a soulful monster of a country ballad that brings to mind vintage Gram Parsons or even Wilco. Try it It would be great if you could use “HAPPY BLOG” as a subject line. Thanks. out for yourself!

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09-17 re-04 - 09:00 all year the golden circle SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT Don’t miss out on the fascinating experience the Golden Circle gives you. On this tour, you can walk around the world-famous Geysir area, a geothermal field where hot springs are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble. Visit the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall along with a visit to Þingvellir national park, the original site of the oldest existing parliament in the world. There the great Atlantic rift is clearly visible, a rift that is slowly pulling Iceland apart along tectonic plates. Book now on www.re.is price isk 8300 Book now by calling 580 5450 price 9800 isk

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relax at re-81 - 09:00 re-62 - 21:00 the Blue lagoon take a Walk on northern lights tour all year FLEXIBLE the ice side Winter 21-24 all year 09-19 SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT There is no better way to start or end your On a chilly Icelandic winter night there Iceland adventure than by bathing in the Want to see and feel something completely is nothing more breathtaking than the famous Blue Lagoon. different? Why not take a walk on a glacier Northern Lights. Relax on board a bus and experience a surface that you have with us and we will take you to a place For our very flexible schedule please refer never been able to walk on before! Take a where you can enjoy this phenomenon to our brochures. tour with us and try something new - dancing around the sky.

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This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusi- Get to know the capital with an expert Take a ride to the top of the world on asts. On this tour we take you around by your side. We take you around a snowmobile and see the amazing the area where one of the Icelandic Reykjavík with a guide and show you the Sólheimajökull from above the larger Sagas took place - along with enjoying highlights of the city. The tour ends at Mýrdalsjökull glacier and be pleasantly spectacular landscape. Come and follow the National museum of Iceland where surprised by the magnificent views.

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Authorised by BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is Icelandic Tourist Board What? No Free Beer?

Sour grapes Yes, there's no free beer for this issue's MOST AWESOME LETTER, even though the guy that wrote it probably needs a cold one more than most people out there. We're sorry about and stuff this lack of free beer. What happened is that our deal with the kind, kind sponsors that provided us with free cases of beer Say your piece, voice your opinion, expired last month and we haven't been send your letters to able to locate any more free beer. [email protected] We're still looking, though. If you read this and you happen to be in the beer business, why not drop us a line? The first one that does will secure this nifty space to get his name out. We also pledge to start vocally liking your particular brand of beer 4 more than any other brand of beer out there. Letters

MOST AWESOME LETTER: Hello Grapevine, they pick up every publication or download Dear Grapevine, As a concerned citizen who has had the dis- it on-line, and they write us letters telling us pleasure of reading your rag of a publication, how much they enjoy the various contribu- something has been bothering me for a I have to express my disconcertion over the tions of our devoted and lovely contributors. while now. I am an immigrant from Africa THE OFFICIAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE repeatedly offensive and racist comics pro- So I don't see why we need to break our and have lived in Iceland for four years. duced by the inept Hugleikur Dagsson. I backs getting you to like us. You clearly have I always thought of Iceland as a country feel that it is in extremely poor taste to pub- a problem with us, and that's fine. People of equal opportunities until recently.Let me lish this lowbrow tripe, and it is an insult to are different, and there are different media cut the drama and say what is on my mind the intelligence of not only the readership of outlets to serve their tastes. So my initial re- and possibly minds of other foreigners, if this paper but the editorial staff to allow this sponse to you was to simply point out that not only those from Africa. to continue. Hugleikur´s newest comic in you were free not to read our paper that you If you have been to the Immigrations of- which he repeateldy uses the word 'nigga' didn't like. Nothing wrong or disrespectful fice or have a friend who has,you know how is deplorable, and I immediatley lose all re- with that. well protected this nation is against unwant- spect for this paper in allowing that shit to Then you retort with a big FUCK YOU ed foreigners.One has to meet a number of be printed. It is outrageously racist and he and accuse me of not showing you or your things in order to be granted a visa or per- should be ashamed of himself. Either fire views respect? Now. This strikes me as odd mit, work or resident. him, or continue to be the most disrepected, and slightly unnerving. Why. Ehrm. Yeah. Recently, I had to renew my residence amateursh paper that this fine country has Just think about it for a second. Who's being permit, as usual I presented all that was re- ever seen! disrespectful here? I do show respect for my quied of me, including three payslips from Iceland’s largest booking service • maps and readers, as does the rest of the Grapevine's the last three months.The receptionist asked brochures • tourist information for all parts of Iceland Sincerely staff and contributors. You have a whole me if I had lost my job and i was glad to in- Joel Fridfinnson lot of people here doing a whole lot of work form her i was still blessed with one. • money exchange • VAT cash refund • Internet and IP every day (and often at night and on week- I waited for three months as always, but P.S. If you would like to continue this debate ends), for little pay, so our readers may have this time i did not get any answer, so i decid- Phone Centre • multilingual and knowledgable staff feel free to email me at jbfridfinnson@ho- something to read. And if they send us com- ed to keep waiting, I thought to myself ''too tmail.com ments or suggestions on how things might many foreigners, a lot of files for those guys be better done, we generally try and listen to take care of.” Dear Joel, hard. After four months, i decided to contact And if they want to submit contributions the office. I met a kind lady at the reciption Feel free not to read our rag of a publication. of their own, we happily accept them and who informed me I did not have enough often publish them. This paper really isn't money to get my permit renewed. You Best, anything except the sum of its readers and should have seen the expression on my face contributors (often interchangeable posi- as i tried to explain to the lady that i had been Haukur S Magnússon tions) and the advertisers that enable us to earning the same amount of money for all print the thing. the years I have been here but had no prob- We do respect our readers greatly, and lem renewing the permit. Hello Haukur, we work hard to please them. But if they She didn’t let me take up more of her want their opinions/rants acknowledged, time since she had finished telling me what Thank you for totally disregard to the point regarded and responded to in a respectful the problem was.So, as it was i needed more of my email, and FUCK YOU, show some re- manner, they better show some fucking re- money to renew my permit. I wondered to spect for your readers in regards to the rac- spect when they give them, and not act like myself if anyone would explain to me when ism that your paper appearently promotes. sugar-crashed three year olds in a shopping this new rule had been put into action and if mall (or whatever). it was why it had to be now when the country By the way in your futue editorials, if you are So fuck you too, sir. is in a finacial crisis. going to write in english, maybe take a fuck- Now, to address the points of your e- As i drove home, a friend who is current- ing english language course. mail, so as to show you the respect you ap- ly dating an American lady called to inform parently deserve: me about how the Lord had been so good to JOEL -The Reykjavík Grapevine is not racist, has his girlfriend in regards to her permit. He never been racist and will never be racist. told me that on her visit to the Immigra- -Hugleikur Dagsson is not racist, has never tions office, she had been told that she only been racist and will never be racist. needed to apply for a renewal of her permit a Look, Joel, -The world we live in, and the art that seeks few days before the old one expired.Also she you've got to lighten up a second here, man, to reflect it, aren't dualistic, black or white, had to acompany the application with just and cut us some slack. What the hell did we right or wrong. Thankfully, both are much one payslip. Being that they are my friends, ever do to deserve such an impolite, intoler- more complex than that. A rose is not always I know for a fact that she earns as much as i ant and generally angry message from you? a rose. do. I honestly thought you were one of my -No, I will not fire Hugleikur Dagsson. I was happy for them but kept wonder- friends kidding around initially. Alas. -Fuck you too. ing whether some laws applied to only Af- Now. I seriously considered your initial Finally, about my 'futue editorials.' I ricans or some officals simply dealt with comments, even though you made them would love for them to be more proper and each file as they please. I do not want to give Accommodation · car rental · sightseeing very hard to take seriously (folks that want to in better English. If you would maybe give you the impression that I need special treat- bestow friendly advice - or any advice - upon me a 'fucking english language course' so I ment, but I am not the only African that has FREE whale watching · horse riding · hiking you generally don't start by telling you how will sound less 'amateursh', then that would had the same experience. Is there some of- Booking Service glacier tours · jeep safari · golf · sea angling much you suck and how everything you do be great. I 'appearantly' haven't mastered the fice that can explain how or maybe why ap- sucks; why would you care what such people 'english' language as well as your fine self. plications are handled differently? skiing · cycling and mountain biking · fishing and hunting think?), and I do admit that I was concerned PS - if you ever feel like growing up and I will understand if you can not print bird watching · kayaking · river rafting helicopter tours pre-publication about using Hugleikur's having a calm, adult conversation about this letter but atleast you or someone else strip with the word 'Nigga' in it. these issues and others that concern you, who has seen it has his mind thinking and tours to Greenland You never want to toy with being racist. you can feel free to write us again. We en- above all, I have told someone. and the Faroe Islands That's not cool. So yeah, I did consider the courage discourse of all kinds. strip prior to publication, and I did give your Momo letter some thought when it arrived. But then I remembered one thing: Dear Momo, -We strive to maintain and uphold artis- Hi. tic and expressional freedom, so long as it is thank you for your letter. Of course we’re not slanderous or willfully damaging. I visited Iceland in September and enjoyed printing it – yours is a story that needs to Reading Hugleikur's comic, it is very reading your paper. The articles were well- be heard. It is baffling and saddening, and WELCOME CARD clear that it is not in any way meant to dis- written, the art work fantastic. However, makes us question some of the ideas we’ve parage or slander any particular race, creed missing from your paper (or indeed any fostered about our home. or gender. He is clearly using words and local source that I could find) were classi- Even worse is the fact that this isn’t the See more and save more phrases common to 'gangsta rap' music to cal music listings. I know there was some first word we get of local authorities’ unfair WELCOME CARD INCLUDING depict the absurd personalities of the made- going on (including an opera performance or inconsistent treatment of immigrants or when visiting Reykjavík. CITY BUS TRANSPORT, 2009 - 2010 FREE ADMISSIONS, up wannabe-gangstas in his comic. There and several recitals) but from your paper it would-be immigrants (not to mention asy- DISCOUNTS OFF TOURS, SHOPPING, AND SERVICES

2009 are untold examples of this in arts and litera- would seem that rock and club music were lum seekers). It’s all kinda nauseating, re- . Free admissions and discounts AVAILABLE FOR 24, 48 AND 72 HOURS. off tours, shopping and services ture throughout the ages. So we let it slip, the only things worth covering--or even ally. and I am happy we let it slip. It was a funny listing! We urge others out there that have simi- for 24, 48 or 72 hours. HBS 47798 10 8 comic (and if Hugleikur's sense of humour You owe your readers and visitors--not lar stories to share them with our readers.

S 4 is not your bag, then that's fine, too. Lots of to mention local and visiting performers--a Let’s spread the word. Great value for money. WELCOME CARD SIA.I A other folks out there like it fine). little better coverage! (I'd move there and do The Welcome Card can Now, again, you start your letter with it for you, but from your article on immigra- ÍSLENSK be purchased at: saying you had the "displeasure of reading tion, that appears not to be an option.) The Centre, major hotels, museums, our rag of a publication," and then close it by tourist information centres and saying we may yet continue to be the most Damon Miller "disrespected, amateursh paper that this Washington, DC, USA Hlemmur and BSÍ bus stations. fine country has ever seen!" (sic!) That is, if we fail to follow your demands Dear Damon, and fire our good friend and long-time con- tributor Hugleikur Dagsson. thank you for your letter and your kind It seems to me that you already view our words. We must say, you are absolutely right. publication (sorry, rag) with great animosity We do list classical events when we get word and distaste, so why on earth would I consid- of them, and we have reviewed them on oc- er doing something as drastic as firing our casion, but the rock- and clubsters just seem resident comic just because you don't like more promotion savvy, that is, they always let what he has to say? If he's gone, we're still us know when they are doing stuff. a rag, we're still disrespected and we're still That said, we will from now on try to list Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] 'amateursh' (whatever that means) in your classical and opera events better and give eyes. them the coverage/exposure they deserve. www.visitreykjavik.is Ehrm. So. Yeah. There are plenty of people out there that like our paper just fine, Sales Office and Bus Terminal

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Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17­ — 2009 Even though undergoing 'extreme inflation' is probably a pretty bad deal, it would still be kinda cool to see what they'd put on a hundred trillion ISK note. And think of all the job openings for designers and illustrators? 6

Article | Currency Opinion | Sigtryggur Baldursson

in cash and the envelope was as thick as a leather wallet. It was a jolly good Topological Travelogue time. You felt like a king but the many krónas were swiftly washed away as It’s a tad sad that topics of friend, the brilliant Icelandic saxophonist and prices kept getting higher. “ discussion on band tours tend recent knitwear fashion mogul Jóel Pálsson, Hyperinflation loomed on the to get increasingly scatological told me this one a few years ago. Some years horizon and the government was as they progress. Maybe it’s the ago, he was lounging in a seedy jazz joint forced to take a number of stabilizing ever-smelly toilet on the bus or the persistent in lower Manhattan, listening to one of his measures: a temporary suspension smell of morning farts that tends to linger heroes blow the horn, as one does. During the on the top floor of the tour bus, incidentally intermission, he wandered down to the men’s of wage indexation, a ceiling on where the folks do their sleeping. toilet to relieve himself of a few beers, also as wage increases and a compensatory The worst instances involve a still one does. social security and tax exchange to morning, as they are called, when you wake As he is standing by the urinal tending protect individuals. In early 1990, up sweating in your coffin. This happens to the business at hand, an older man of a historic agreement was reached: when you don’t have air blowing into your indiscriminate age enters the men’s room and wage increases would be severely bunk, which is screened off with curtains and takes a stance by the urinal right next to our limited nationwide in exchange for normally very cosy when properly ventilated. man. He was obviously drunk, and his state Inflated Crowns the government’s promise to curb However, sometimes the engine is turned indicated he had probably been that way for inflation. Miraculously, it worked. off—effectively shutting off the air supply. The quite a while. He had on a very dirty white “She’s fat, she’s thin, she’s fat, she’s thin – I mean, bus may have been sitting in a location in front suit, stained to perfection, and mumbled an Inflation dropped to reasonable of a venue for hours or local staff might have incoherent sax solo as he proceeded to relieve come on, pick a body and go with it!” - Jerry Seinfeld on figures and remained that way until bungled the ever important power cable that himself. As everyone knows, the unwritten Oprah, Saturday Night Live, 1992 2008, when the króna and the Icelandic is supposed to be sitting outside the venue, law of men’s rooms states that you never economy went to hell in a hand basket. ready to hook up to the bus, so as to keep the stand right next to a guy at the urinal if it can “The króna fell like a stone” Ólafur air flowing. be avoided. Personal space and all that jazz. I know where yams come from. I can best example of hyperinflation might Ísleifsson, assistant professor at God help you if the above fails, and the The man in the white suit is obviously in his name every country through which be Hungary during the summer of Reykjavík University’s business school, sun has been shining on the top of the bus for own little world, which happens if you drink the Danube runs. I can even bake 1946, when the post-war government recently said. He wasn’t exaggerating: hours. You wake up in something resembling enough. a quiche from scratch. But when it crumpled under an inflation rate the króna lost half of its value in a a cross between a sauna and a foul crypt. Jóel minds his own business, making an Seeing as bus toilets are merely designed effort to not look at the guy next to him. The comes to monetary policy, financial of 41.900,000,000,000,000%—the matter of days. Inflation reared its ugly indexation, so-called external shocks highest ever recorded. The value of for number one rather than number two, guy lets out a huge fart while urinating and head again and topped out at over 18% queues tend to form for the venue toilets humming and Jóel tries hard not to breathe, and wage formation, I feel like a the Hungarian pengo doubled nearly as Icelanders wearily celebrated the beached whale. A rotting beached every 13 hours and led to the printing when people rise to their feet in the morning. concentrating on looking at his shoes. This arrival of 2009. These gatherings naturally tend to bring out leads him to notice the man’s shoes are of a whale. Asking around for answers of the largest banknote denomination stories connected with the matter at hand, tattered brown variety, and around the left led to the realisation that the general ever issued: the 100 quintillion “Ch-ch-ch-changes, Just and so the stories come like laxative. one a small yellowish-brown puddle is slowly population is equally informed about (100,000,000,000,000,000,000) pengo Gonna Have to be a Different I will spare you the details, but will include forming. At this disgusting revelation, Jóel these subjects—which is to say not note. Man” a wonderful story that is nicely unconnected loses his concentration and sneaks a look at all. We are a pod of putrid beached While the Icelandic króna has to the bus at hand, yet takes the cake so to at the man next to him, who is ready for that “The basic economic lesson is that a whales. This is dangerous in a country never reached such eye-gouging speak in stories of this sordid, often comical look and says with a demonic grin: “I gambled, free-floating currency in the smallest that has experienced one of the most extremes, the history of Iceland’s nature. and I lost!” That phrase has since become a currency area known to man— severe economic collapses in modern currency is volatile enough to lead a No matter how lofty you want to get, you classic amongst my travelling companions. consisting of 300,000 people—is a history—a country where money and number of experts to question whether can always laugh at a good poo story. My Áfram veginn! recipe for disaster,” Ólafur commented. the economy sometimes feel like the the country shouldn’t abandon it “I think that history suggests quite only relevant topics of conversation. altogether. strongly that we would have been Comix | Review I tried to address the issue by Twelve volumes and counting, with no end in better off if we had accepted the offer starting from a familiar, but too-often “And My Time Was Running sight, Fables by Bill Willingham is probably in 1993 to get into the fast track for EU Vertigo’s finest on-going series. It tells the empty locale—my wallet. My question Wild” membership. If we had had the Euro, story of a particularly special community of was simple: How come I have 3 grand Throughout the post-war period, the economic collapse of 2008 would immigrants in New York—namely, characters in my pocket and still feel like a pauper? Iceland’s inflation has been well not have happened.” out of fables. Snow White, Prince Charming, above the average of other members Looking ahead, assistant professor Beauty, Beast, Pinocchio, the big bad wolf “I’m Much Too Fast to Take OECD (the Organization for Economic and basically every other one you can think Katrín Ólafsdóttir, Ólafur’s colleague that Test” Co-operation and Development, a of. These fine people have been disguised at the University, goes one step further: The simplest answer to that question collection of democratic, free-market as New Yorkers for over a century now, ever “I don’t think there’s a future for the is inflation, or the steady rise in economies). From 1945 to 1973, yearly since an unknown adversary forced them out króna. Absolutely not. the general price of goods and inflation hovered in the moderate 10– of the fairytale lands. We should do whatever we can to It’s like if all your favourite fairytale services and the subsequent erosion 15% range. change the currency to the Euro—the characters were produced by HBO. Sex, of a currency’s purchasing power. All that changed in the early 70s. sooner, the better... Yes, we would have violence and soap opera. And above all: The general consensus between With a population of just over 200.000 less economic growth, but we’d also be wonderful characters. That’s all a good story economists is that inflation is not and an economy dependent on more stable." needs, really. Fantastical characters that altogether a negative phenomenon, but export trade, Iceland was particularly feel like real people. You know, like in Buffy. With a recent poll indicating less a natural by-product of the economy vulnerable to the oil crisis of 1973. Willingham’s ability to make you care about than a third of Icelanders wanting to and dependent on wages, prices for Import prices grew and inflation whether Snow White and Bigby Wolf end up join the EU—much less adopting the goods and interest rates. Inflation has followed fast on its tracks. A second together, or whether Prince Charming will Euro—that switch might be easier both pros (debt relief, the balancing of oil shock in 1980 only exacerbated the one day outgrow being a douche, is close imagined than realized any time soon. to magic. Pick up the first volume now, and labour markets) and cons (purchasing situation. A fall in the fish catch of 1982 Until then, we might as well indulge in it’s pretty much guaranteed that you’ll be power and investment uncertainty). was the third wheel of an inflation all the zeros in our pockets. spending your last dope money on the twelfth Most countries aim for low inflation, tricycle wildly out of control. Although volume within a month. somewhere in the 1%–3% range. the government cut two zeroes off the Absolutely But that’s not all. For those of us who Extreme inflation, on the króna in 1981 in order to maintain “We are a pod of putrid can’t get enough of contemporary fantasy, other hand—otherwise known as some sense of normalcy, no substantial there’s also a Fables spin-off. Jack of Fables “hyperinflation”—tends to have policy steps were taken to address the beached whales” Fable-ous! (up to 6 volumes now) follows the Loki / Han Solo / trickster type of the Fableverse: Jack catastrophic effects. Commonly issue. Fables and Jack of Fables defined as a cumulative inflation By the early months of 1983, (the one from Jack and the Beanstalk). A By Bill Willingham narcissistic con-man who’s hard to love but rate of 100% over three years, inflation was pushing 100%. Bjarni and various artists even harder to loathe. His exploits are not as hyperinflation is characterized by a Brynjólfsson, editor of the Iceland beautifully written as the Fables, but a fun, central bank printing successively Review, recalled the era in a 2008 fun, fun addition to a lovely, well crafted, good greater denominations of currency, opinion piece: old fashioned comic book universe for people Michael Zelenko Hugleikur Dagsson rendering previous bills worthless. The “I remember getting a weekly pay who like their entertainment smart. WHAT? Welcome to Iceland Here’s how to find WHO? WHERE?

People Businesses Maps Direction

Quick guide to the information you need while enjoying your stay www.ja.is EXPECT HANG OVERS...

THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 Are you feeling all blue now that the sun has pretty much left us to rot? Why not do something constructive about it? Form a band, take up skateboarding or write us a nice article - the choice is yours. 8

Article | Seasonal Affective Disorder Opinion | Étienne Ljóni Poisson Opinion | Paul F Nikolov When The McDonald's Sun Stops Leaves Shining Iceland Iceland is not the best I have to place in the world to visit admit, it's during the winter. Especially been a little surprising if you crave long, sunny seeing the reactions to the days with still winds and a nice crisp, news that McDonald's have closed dry cold. Where I come from, winter their doors in Iceland. One popular is hell—it snows so much that you right-wing TV show host on FOX News actually cannot get to school. We have made quite a big deal about it, using temperatures like -20° C, snow is black this as the sign of a failing economy. from pollution, and it just goes on and That's right, guys – when an American on for months. Living in a country fast food chain can no longer compete where people are still relatively new to against the hundreds of other tastier this sort of hellish winter-infinitum (we hamburger joints in any given country, only got there about 400 years ago— then that country is clearly in a state of you guessed it: Canada) means that no complete and utter financial collapse. one is ever happy and people complain When I first came to Iceland, all of the time. And that doesn’t make there was a McDonald's in downtown things any easier. Reykjavík. When it closed down, and When I came to Iceland, all set to was replaced by the restaurant Hressó, spend my first winter here, I thought: I thought, “Wow, good for Iceland.” “Yes, this will be so much easier...” The consumers decided they'd rather SADland Oh, how I erred. eat domestic food than what passes Winters in Iceland are much for food at McDonald's. In fact, the The Winter Blues unleash the fury milder, this is true. They have amazing McDonald's that's now gone has been northern lights, beautiful white snow replaced by a new restaurant called Imagine a morning in the middle of seasonal beast, and should watch out for winters, there is still a bit of time to see and swans. Indeed it is not so much Metro, which serves much the same December. Your alarm clock goes off, signs of it rearing its ugly head. some light in the middle of the day. The the temperature that affected me, but fare that McDonald's did, only all the beckoning you to get out of bed and get So if you just moved here from, oh I exposure to vitamin D is important in the the overwhelming feeling that I just ingredients are domestic, even the your ass to work. You pull up the blinds don’t know, let’s say Florida, you might be production and release of serotonin from kept missing the little sunshine I was packaging. This will even create some hoping the morning light will wash over in for a boring, awful treat. our neurotransmitters, so use your lunch offered, day after day. new jobs. you and perk you up. Except it’s pitch As for actual Icelanders, they seem hour to go to an outdoor pool, go skating You see, when winter came and Isn't that a good thing? I mean, black out there, and it will remain so, all to have some luck. A study conducted in on the weekends and ditch your curtains the days started getting shorter (what regardless of Iceland's economic fucking day long. What is one to do? How 1999 shows that as a general population, entirely. Icelanders call skammdegi), I had no situation, the fact that at least the is one to proceed? Icelanders have a fairly low prominence If exposure to the little daylight there way of knowing that these would be fast food industry has taken this tiny It’s pretty tempting to throw oneself to get SAD compared to other high is isn’t sufficient, the most common the last minutes of sunshine I would baby step from imported to domestic back into bed and cocoon under the latitudinal countries. In addition, a and non-invasive form of treatment is see for weeks. The darkness took is encouraging. And even though blankets, but the truth is we must forge concurrent study of Canadians of purely light therapy. Using a full spectrum such a toll on me that my sleep cycle unemployment has been steadily ahead. For many, though, that is much Icelandic descent in Manitoba showed light bulb, one is to sit and stare into the was turned around completely (which dropping since April, we could still use easier said than done. They truly cannot that they had less frequency of having light for 30 minutes to 2 hours a day, means I didn’t really go to school— all the job creation we can get. find neither the willpower nor physical seasonal affective disorder than other depending on the bulb’s intensity and don’t worry, I got away with it). I was Come to think of it, maybe fast food strength to fight the darkness. Canadians, even in Manitoba. So there the severity of SADness. Andrés tells sleeping until 2 pm, and by then, if is the answer to Iceland's economic This is a small idea of what it’s like may be a genetic tolerance for darkness in me that specialists are unsure why this it wasn’t grey, the sun was already troubles. Close Domino's, replace with to live with seasonal affective disorder Icelandic blood. treatment is so successful, but it seems disappearing. For four weeks, I did not yet another Icelandic pizza chain. Close (SAD), a debilitating mood condition that Speaking with Andrés Magnússon, that the stimulation of the optical nerve see any sun. And I went insane, and it KFC, replace it with the resurrection of can affect up to 10% of the population a psychiatrist at Landspítali hospital, resynchronizes the body clock, improving was no fun. I felt like that guy from The Akureyri's legendary Crown Chicken. in countries in high latitudes, such as he told me that the prevalence of SAD sleep patterns and energy levels. Shining. I watched all the worst movies Close TGI Friday's, Ruby Tuesday's, Iceland. The condition is thought to be in Icelanders is uncertain, although One should consider medical from the 90s, I almost exclusively ate Taco Bell, go right on down the brought on by a decreased amount of it seems to be no worse than in more treatment by a specialist if they have rice, and I didn’t come out of my room. list, replace them all with good ol' daylight and the suppression of serotonin southern locations, such as the North- a prior psychiatric condition or mood It was difficult, but the following Icelandic fast food. Sure, we won't get produced in the brain. Eastern United States. According to him, disorder that is exacerbated by the spring was the best I have ever seen. any healthier, but the jobs created to The most common symptoms are the condition seems to be an increasing seasonal change. For example, Andrés I didn’t expect darkness to have so supply these restaurants – instead of an increased need for sleep, increased problem the more north one goes up to a says that a person afflicted by manic much power over how I felt and what I importing goods – will surely help. appetite and feeling generally miserable. certain latitude, but it seems to taper off depression can be strongly affected by the did, but it did. Now I know. I go to the And then who knows? Maybe Other common symptoms can include around the 50° mark. Still, he does not seasonal change, and this can have heavy gym, I go out to cafés, I do my best to Iceland can start exporting fast food cravings for carbohydrates, increased think that there is absolute immunity repercussions. If shit gets really rough, see my friends, I go out as soon as it chains to other countries. Sharing our stress, irritability, social reclusion and to it, and many Icelanders become don’t suffer in silence. Turn that winter gets sunny (even slightly cloudy will do fast food with the world is arguably a lack of interest in sex. Some extreme plagued with lethargy and have difficulty frown upside down! it) and I’m careful about when I go to a more noble cause than setting up cases can even trigger manic episodes functioning in the darkened months. sleep and when I wake up. investment firms and online banks. and suicidal feelings. Sounds fun, right? So my words of advice to those No matter how bad things get, the How to COPE of you who plan on staying over the demand for food served in paper bags Who gets bummed out? If you suspects you are experiencing winter are as follows: Wake up early seldom wanes. In general, women are two to four times SAD, that is to say, a depression in direct and do everything you can to catch the Man, I hope the government's likelier than men to be affected. Young relation to the change of season with no sun. It will be your best friend. taking notes here. Climbing obesity adults are more vulnerable than the depression during other seasons, then Do not underestimate its power. rates and cholesterol levels be middle-aged. Those with a history of there are several ways to power through. damned, forget exporting clean, clinical depression in their family are at Andrés recommends that one simply renewable energy – fast food is clearly risk. People who have never been exposed tries to expose themselves to as much the future of Iceland's economic to long and consistent periods of darkness natural daylight as possible. Although REBECCA LAUDER JULIA STAPLES comeback. are also more prone to falling prey to the this is a bit of a challenge in Icelandic HallgriMs CHurCH sunday nOVEMBEr 22nd 2009 - 4 PM day Of sT. CECilia

st. CeCilia oratorio By Á s k e l l M Á s s on

WOrld PrEMiErE OnE HOur Of ExCiTing nEW MusiC TO CElEBraTE sT. CECilia, THE PaTrOn sainT Of MusiC COMMissiOnEd By THE friEnds Of THE arTs sOCiETy Of HallgriMs CHurCH

Text by Thor Vilhjálmsson

S o l o i S t S : Þóra Einarsdóttir soprano Bragi Bergþórsson tenor Ágúst Ólafsson bar ytone Bjarni Thor Kristinsson bass HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223 Motet Choir of Hallgrims Church Chamber Orchestra of Hallgrims Church, two organs

C o n d u C t o r : Hörður Áskelsson

Admission: 3.500 isk / Eur 20 · Box officE At HAllgrims cHurcH tEl. 510 1000 · www.listvinafelag.is »Free Classifieds: You can advertise in our classifieds for free at www.grapevine.is. Category like housing available, housing wanted, job openings, job needed. » www.grapevine.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 In late October, Grapevine dispatched journalist Haukur Már Helgason to Athens, Greece, so he could provide our readers with insight on the situation faced by our asylum seekers when we dispose of them. Read his full report in our December issue. 10

Report | Global Concerns Article | Immigration Bringing Nour Home Collectives organise to challenge recent deportations

The Icelandic government's hasty processed, the Norwegian Embassy in and unfortunate move to deport four Greece (Iceland has no Greek embassy) refugees seeking asylum two weeks ago advised Nour that he might still need came as a shock to both the refugees a visa to return, adding another layer and the Icelanders working on their of uncertainty. Nour is currently still behalf. In mid-October, 19-year old awaiting the arrival of his Iraqi passport Nour Al-din Alazzawi, whose story the in Athens. Grapevine profiled this summer, was "The chances are pretty high that arrested in his home after a 14-month [Nour] will be coming back very soon," period of limbo and given 15 minutes to Stefánsdóttir says, claiming it is a matter pack his belongings. The next morning, of days, not weeks or months. police escorted him onto a plane and Meanwhile, a separate collective accompanied him on his flight to Athens, has been working on keeping the Greece. Hearing word of the deportation, refugee issue in the spotlight. Initially a Wali Safi, an Afghani-refugee with branch of the international organization a girlfriend and stepchildren here in No Borders, the nameless collective Iceland, went into immediate hiding. is composed of roughly 100 activists Until the Ministry of Justice re-opens his updating each other and running www. case and grants him asylum, Wali writes, this.is/refugees, a website dedicated "I must remain in hiding." to tracking refugee conditions within For activists and sympathizers here Iceland. Along with raising funds, the Machine Gun Democracy in Reykjavík, the event was a call to collective also aims to raise awareness Letter from Athens arms—a reminder of the severity of through demonstrations, marches and the refugee situation. The Hljómalind benefit concerts, including one planned If you are not from the their explicit identity. The reason, this don’t directly attack a group of people Collective, born out of the now defunct for the 14th of November at Grand Rokk. part of the world that time around, was an anti-racist concert when they hold an anti-racist gathering Kaffi Hljómalind—where Nour worked Living conditions at the refugee implicitly denotes itself to be held in that square that same is what the Icelandic Ministry of Justice from July 2009 until the cafe's recent hostel in Keflavík are trying, they say, as “the first world,” then night. Less than a year ago, the fascists and Human Rights has in mind when closing—banded together with the with asylum-seekers often rubbing whatever brought you here, whether occupied this same square and kept it it says that reports and pleas issued stated goal of assisting Nour during his shoulders with young travellers on you are a migrant worker in Europe or long into the year, beating and knifing by the Red Cross and the UN Human stay in Athens and bringing him back to vacation. Even though the refugees are a refugee, there is a 50% chance that those foreigners and leftists who Rights Committee in 2008 and 2009 Reykjavík for good. Helena Stefánsdóttir, free to leave, their meagre stipends leave your first destination within the zone dared enter the square. They did so in are already outdated – so there is no one of the original owners of Kaffi them isolated for all practical purposes. was Greece. cooperation with police authorities. need to fear for the asylum seekers we Hljómalind and a founding member of Uncertainty about their asylum status There is also a good chance that The leftists’ intentions to throw dispose of on the streets of Athens. the collective, was in a state of disbelief only compounds their insecurity. you have left Greece at least once, an anti-racist concert precisely in that There are no animals in the when she heard of the deportation. "He Members of the collective try to alleviate tried going somewhere else, but then square were to reclaim the place and its picture above, except in the perverse was one of the best people we ever had the situation by visiting the refugees, bumped into the Dublin agreement, surrounding area for all its inhabitants mind of machine-gun endowed state at Hljómalind," she said. cooking meals, spending time with them and realize why the Greek police and visitors. The fascists showed up bureaucracies. In the foreground of Stefánsdóttir set up a bank account and creating personal connections. scanned your fingerprints. You were at 1 PM. This time, however, things the picture is Nour-aldin Al-azzawi. where people could donate money that Nour's case is not unique, but it then shipped back to Greece. Greek had changed, even if only slightly. He is a man. Since a large group very night. By the next morning, the is important. The publicity "raises authorities told you can stay, give you After October’s elections, a left wing of state-acknowledged people have collective had gathered 100.000 ISK to the problem to a personal level," show up by the gate of the Immigrant government is now in charge in testified to this, the Minister of Justice send to Nour. By the time Helena came Stefánsdóttir said, while holding a Office once per month, to verify that Greece. ‘Nominally left wing,’ say the and Human rights decided last week home from wiring the money, another packet of immigration papers meant you are still hanging in there, get a activists, furious about increased police to let Nour enjoy the benefit of her 70.000 ISK had been raised. The four for the Ministry of Justice. Instead of stamp, and wait. Forever, according to presence in their neighbourhoods. doubt, at least temporarily. Meanwhile, original owners subsequently met with approaching each case individually, "we statistics. Police presence – it’s actually more nonetheless, the state doesn’t dare turn the Minister of Justice and asked for put refugees, criminals and gangsters You sing the blues, the Dublin- as if the city is under siege. On a casual the machine off—the Deportation assistance. The minister agreed, and under one hat." agreement-international-fingerprint- walk through anarchist stronghold Dogomat 2000 keeps on shouting: has since been guiding the collective database-I-have-no-passport-got-no- Exarchia, you will see a gang of four Out! as they arrive. Out! through the immigration process in job-got-no-home-and-they-won’t-let- to five policemen every 3-4 minutes, order to bring Nour back. me-unite-with-my-family-blues. sporting full armour. Now, before the Although Nour recently received It is quite possible, then, that concert, the police never escapes your permission from the Icelandic you sometimes sleep by the wall line of vision, in at least a kilometre’s HAUKUR MÁR HELGASON government to stay in Iceland while surrounding the Immigrant Office, radius from the square. Apart from HAUKUR MÁR HELGASON his immigration and work papers are Michael Zelenko since it sometimes takes days to get to those armoured packs that visibly do speak with anyone in there, and if you not differ much from an army, the are caught on the bus without a ticket, concert would seem like a sweet little Opinion | Valur Gunnarsson you already know by experience that neighbourhood gathering. Inside the the police might bang your head to the square you can even forget the tension pavement several times, for a laugh, no surrounding it. On the way home, Why I Don’t Want to Grow Up matter how you plea. however, you remember that there is a Your wakeup call will be when the war. This was strategic music. To celebrate my 33rd generation since has taken their lead. office-workers arrive, since you are There is a long tradition in Greece birthday, I went to see the Coming-of-age stories of the kind that sleeping in their parking lot. You will of fascists and police fighting side by GI Joe movie. What’s wrong Nick Hornby specialises in used to be then line up or loiter by the gate, where side against subversive groups. Athens with this sentence? Sure, the about teenagers, then 20-somethings. a man stands with a machine gun – last boiled over after police shot and movie was crap, but I knew that going in. Now they deal with 35 year olds trying to not by his side – but ready in his hands, killed a 15-year-old boy, an anarchist, Still, I felt compelled to see it. This may find their way. finger by the trigger, replying to those in Exarchia in December 2008. sound like an alcoholic after another Why? who address him: What do you want, drink, wondering why he expected a Perhaps the reason is rather simple. asshole? Change? different outcome this time. But see it I As the hippies knew, we are living in The photograph above is from your The new socialist government seems did. a morally bankrupt society. Capitalist own reality show, where you struggle intent on keeping up right wing Being in your mid-30s, childless, and employers, from the banks to the for the right to have rights. You who policies on refugees. It means they are still going to see movies based on 80s advertising agencies, force everyone to thought Europe was what they show left in limbo, as mere bodies on the toy franchises is indicative of a larger do things they don’t really like doing. To you on TV. streets, bereft of all civil rights. If the trend: our basic refusal to grow up. Why be true to our natures, to be curious and more centrist parties of the coalition is this? Sure, your hair falls out, your creative, we either have to stay in school Wow, real fascists! government have little trouble leaving hangovers last three days instead of as long as possible or pursue a career in Greek politics take place on the street. the square in Exarchia to the fascists, three hours and you keep moving closer the arts, which will most likely fail. Both On Monday, November 2, a group of the Communist party obviously has to death. Still, it’s not all bad. Is it? pursuits best become the young. Small neighbourhood fascists occupied the a reputation to defend. This time, Last year in Estonia I went to see wonder then that artists, actors, and square Agios Panteleimonas in Central the police were sent in to remove the Rambo IV. Apart from Sly’s botched rock stars are the biggest heroes of our Athens. Fascist is not a slanderous fascists. Which they did. According to face job, my biggest surprise was that culture. They are the lucky few who have name imposed by their opponents, but a witness, “they know each other by I was twice the age of everyone else in So the question remains. Why are we managed to get paid, as Springsteen nicknames, so it wasn’t really any hard the cinema. This rarely happens to me so afraid to grow up? When did being said, “a king’s ransom for doing what fighting, but you know, bumping and in NATO countries. What gives? Then it young stop being the means to an end comes naturally.” Accountants, who do 1. Nour-aldin Al-azzawi, 19, recently pushing.” hit me. Estonians my age grew up in the and start becoming an end in itself? nothing but count money, should be the deported from Iceland, leads the There were clashes also with the Soviet Union. They weren’t saturated by Youth culture started, as everything superstars of capitalism if the system felt journalist around the wall of the Im- concert’s promoters and its audience. Cold War Hollywood culture as we were. did, with Elvis. Small wonder that people natural to us. It doesn’t, and so we rightly migration office. Another Iraqi de- There were incidents. But all in all, And so, they aren’t stuck in it anymore. are reluctant to grow up (and out) when see them as the most boring people ported from Iceland did not have the according to most witnesses, the police They grew up. When they go to the they see what happened to him. Still, about. good fortune of friends in Iceland was neutral this evening, and kept the cinema, they see adult movies. No, not youth culture really took off in the 60s. For those doomed to adulthood, and Greece, and no place to stay, fascists from disrupting the gathering. those. You know what I mean. Almost as soon as the 60s were over, nothing awaits but debt, mortgages and headed back to Iraq, where his Most of the organizers and guests In Eastern Europe, people over 20 get people started getting nostalgic about and dreary jobs. Small wonder that life is threatened, rather than play were surprised, almost shocked. “It’s offended if you say they go to school. them. Just listen to (or have someone most people think of their school years dead outside the fences in Europe. historical,” the told me. “This has not They instantly correct you, pointing out translate) the song “Öll mín bestu ár” as the best time of their lives. Learning Nour-aldin has kept in touch with his happened for, I don’t know, many, that they go to “the University” or “the from 1976. All together now, “Árið 69, something new every day is in our friends and campaigners through many – many – years.” Institute.” School is for children. We, þegar Trúbrot var og hét...” nature. Facebook, which is making it a bit Perhaps the fact that 1.000 however, quite like the idea of going to The 60s generation was the first harder for governments everywhere policemen armed with guns and gas to ‘disappear’ people. school. It makes us feel young. that refused to grow up, and every The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17­ — 2009 Ólafur Hauksson is the man responsible for bringing those responsible for the biggest messes of our financial crisis to justice. That's a pretty hefty job, right there. 11

Interview | Financial Crimes Article | Housing Refilling 101 Making use of the abandoned spaces in Reykjavík

Up until a year ago, Reykjavík was in the had originally planned to covertly take spaces throes of a serious building boom. Projects all a week at a time, quickly set up their display, over town planned to tear down the old and throw one big party and move on to another put in new shopping malls and high-rises. location. They busted their way into the locale Tenants of older buildings were being forced on Hverfisgata in June, cleaned and white- out by rising rent prices and the owners were washed it in one week and threw an opening chomping at the bit of sweet deals being party, where a dozen cops showed up asking offered to them for their properties. them to shut off the music and get the party- When the shit hit the fan last October, goers out. They boarded up that night and the construction industry took one of the came back the next day with fresh plans. first big hits on the chin. From one day to “We started to look into the prospect the next, the money was gone and projects of making it ongoing,” Pretty Boy Geoffrey were immediately put on ice. Businesses all Thor Huntingdon-Williams told me, “we were throughout downtown were going bankrupt getting quite attached to the place and we and closing up shop, buildings that were sold didn’t want to leave, basically. There was no to be demolished stood vacant and forgotten. one who was ripping us out, so we said ‘okay, However, some people began to see the let’s just stay here a bit longer.’” potential for the phoenix to rise from the The group then contacted Central City flames of these deserted shells. Groups of Director Jakob Frímann Magnússon, who artists and creatively inclined individuals already knew the guys from their involvement began appropriating spaces into workshops with the Reykjavík graffiti scene. With his and galleries. This did not necessarily fly over help, they managed to get the go-ahead from Special Prosecutor: too well with building owners and obstacles the building owners to occupy the space rent were thrown in the path of those trying to free and properly open a gallery. The group Investigation progressing, maturing bring new life into the quickly dying city did a second clean up of the space, working centre. I recently spoke with two of these day and night until they finally opened their Ólafur Hauksson, the Special Prosecutor have been charged, this will not entice Though it might seem a bit odd industrious individuals about their projects doors on Menningarnótt, which Geoffrey feels in charge of investigating the financial him to act rashly. that Hauksson's team must rely on and the challenges they faced. went very well. crimes that helped bring Iceland’s “You have to be thorough. We cannot information provided to it by people with banking system to its knees, has said afford to have cases thrown out in court.” some connection to the old banks, he Doing it by the book Bust in vs. call ahead Hlín Helga Guðlaugsdóttir, managing director So which method is simpler and most that his office is making progress in its The October 1st raid of accounting firms described the new banks’ information as of the Aurora Design Fund, set up the Design effective? It seems as though the going about inquiry, though it still faces challenges KPMG and PricewaterhouseCooper's ‘helpful.’ “Glitnir, for example, has hired March in March 2009. She told me that the the legal process of finding the owners and in its quest to bring criminal bankers to Reykjavik offices, for example, has not yet auditors to run over everything to see if group targeted empty, abandoned spaces all requesting permission for use of the spaces justice. yielded leads to other monetary mischief. money was loaned illegally. Kaupþing has along Laugavegur with the aim to bring new can be a pain in the ass, but the pay off is To date, although about seven or eight “There is a huge amount of information done the same,” he said, adding that the life to the street that was rapidly losing air worth it. Hlín stressed this point to me as cases have either already been wrapped to go over,” Hauksson said. “It is much old Landsbanki winding-up committee and show that these spaces could be used well. After gaining the mayor’s approval and up or dismissed in court. Hauksson says too soon to give information about that.” has also cooperated. for something else. However, over the course speaking to people on the city council about that his team has worked on roughly As the name suggests, forensic of January to March, more and more empty her new project on Laugavegur, she placed fifty cases in total. With a report from accounting is a painstaking process. How far does this spaces were cropping up and it started to look fresh calls to the building owners she had like they bit off more than they could chew. spoken with to prior to her project and was Alþingi set to be released in February Pesky journalists aren't much of a rabbit hole go? “It was so difficult,” Hlín told me, “when we met with an overwhelming positive response. about financial crimes in the run-up help either to a man whose job it is to Just how long the Special Prosecutor's started there were thirty designers wanting to “I’m pro-activism, but I think there is a line to the kreppa, it would not be a stretch be as discreet as possible for as long as office will remain in existence is unclear, do something, and there were five or seven where you have to have credibility to make to say the number of cases that land on possible. Has the Special Prosecutor been though more will be known when empty spaces. By the time we did it in March, good things happen,” she says, “Taking a Hauksson's desk may grow in the coming working with Russian law enforcement? parliament issues its report in February. there were thirty.” space might be a good and necessary means months. “The institution is expanding “There have been news stories abroad At first, the Special Prosecutor's office The group went about acquiring these to communicate what you believe in and make and growing with the workload,” he said, that we haven't commented on,” he said, was only supposed to cover the time spaces by contacting the building owners a statement, but I think that if you want to adding that three new prosecutors have in a possible reference to a 2006 Danish just before and after the collapse. It has to borrow the space, but were immediately build something up, I believe in getting direct challenged. “It was quite difficult to get them dialogue and selling your ideas.” recently joined the team at its Laugavegur newspaper report that Icelandic banks since broadened its investigation, and the to lend the spaces for a couple of days,” she She also suggests that a young artist office. were helping Russians launder money. office may still exist after February 1st, says, “finding the building owners by going without a degree and no money can build Not surprisingly, one reason that the 2011, when a review by the Alþingi on the through real estate agents to talk to them, legitimacy by grouping with other artists and Special Prosecutor's office is expanding What about [former Kaupþing executive] status of the Special Prosecutor's office that was the headache.” Hlín attributes getting a spokesperson. is because investigations have taken Sigurður Einarsson, who, according to the will take place. the reluctance of building owners to lend Hlín does see the other side of the coin on a global scope. Akranes resident Guardian, has been named as a suspect Much of Hauksson's work is currently them the space to indifference. “I think they though. “In some cases I think it’s necessary Hauksson has already been to London, and is currently in London? Are you focused on stock market manipulation couldn’t be bothered in a way,” she goes on, “I to take over houses,” she goes on, “Some where he met with British officials from worried he may try to avoid extradition? facilitated by illegal loans, though as think they were also afraid that we would do houses are really neglected, in really bad the Serious Fraud Office (SFO). Though “We haven't given any information about the investigation matures, even the something and mess it up. Some of them were shape and people are just letting them rot. instantly positive and understood that it was They don’t care about the property, they care he was unable to divulge too much individual's statuses and who has been privatization of the banks themselves an opportunity, but others just didn’t see the about the land, so they let them rot so they can information about where in the world the asked to come in for questioning,” he may come under his scrutiny. Hauksson, point.” get permission to build earlier.” This was the investigation will lead him, Hauksson replied. “Most of those we have requested however, will have to wait on orders from Eventually it all came together and the case with Gallery Bosnia’s space. The building revealed that Luxembourg—that bastion to come to Iceland have appeared.” above to see where the inquest is going. group got eight spaces up and running, all was a run-down eyesore that the owners of financial integrity—is a real place Thus the responsibility of being “It is a matter that will be touched upon of which they worked hard to clean and give were neglecting, according to Geoffrey, and of interest for the Special Prosecutor's Iceland's top cop in charge of going by the Parliament committee's report,” a fresh coat of paint. They then threw an despite a few snags with the law, he says they office. Hauksson's partner-in-crime, Eva after arguably the country's most hated he said in closing. opening party which led into a walk along ultimately didn’t face any real hassles when it Joly, also told national broadcaster RÚV criminals in its history does not seem to Laugavegur to visit all their locations. Hlín tells came to getting permission to use it. that the Norwegian State Prosecutor has get to Hauksson, who has been working me that she received lots of positive feedback He also points out that his group didn’t offered assistance. Both the British and in law enforcement since 1989. “Pressure from people who were glad to see the street take their space to make a political statement, alive again. Reykjavík mayor Hanna Birna but rather they went about this route to make Norwegian assistance were described by in this line of work isn't a new thing,” Kristjánsdóttir paid a visit to the event as well. something beautiful out of something that Hauksson as being “very positive.” he exclaimed with a chuckle when A couple of days later, Hlín was asked by was rotting away. asked if he found it difficult to maintain the city to continue a project to revitalize “I’m not squatting and we’re not waving “Heavy burden” objectivity in such troubled times. Laugavegur’s empty spaces. She worked with black flags,” he says, “it’s not a political The Special Prosecutor’s office has But there is only so much that designers to split them into small groups that manoeuvre. We just wanted to make already been successful in recovering Hauksson and his team of financial would occupy spaces together and has now something nice and do something fun.” One some tainted assets. Hauksson said that cops can do. The Special Prosecutor's stepped back from the project, but continues thing both Geoffrey and Hlín agree on is that a “serious amount” of cash in connection mandate does not include a fact-finding to oversee the situation in 101 and assess if people need to take initiative to transform to Kaupþing’s takeover of Sainsbury has mission. Whistleblowers are welcome they need to become more proactive. these spaces into worthwhile endeavours, and not let abandoned space go to waste. already been recovered, for example, but to directly tell the Special Prosecutor's “We took it.” some assets may never be recovered. office anything they might know, which Not everyone has chosen to go about the “A heavy burden of proof is on the state they can do either by phone or online, but most legal means of acquiring space. A before it can make a decision [to freeze information comes to the office primarily group of young street artists, The Pretty assets],” he explained. Though some of from the Financial Services Authority Boys, recently opened the Gallery Bosnia at the money may be sufficiently hidden and task forces established by the new Samuel Knight Hverfisgata 34. The group had taken notice of Rebecca Louder or spent by the time criminal financiers banks. JULIA STAPLES the amount of abandoned space in 101. They ÞÓRSTEINN SIGURÐSSON MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Prescribing with love Hafnarfjörður Theatre for 800ISK. 20:00 Dance Performance “Crazy Sódóma music for your live Love Butter”. 22:00 Stereo Hypnosis CD Re- Kaffi Zimsen lease gig. experience 22:00 Movie night. Thorvaldsen Nordic House 20:30 Salsa & Mojito night. Free sal- How to use the listings 20:00 Classical Concert with sa lessons and mojitos for 1000ISK. Venues are listed alphabetically by day. participants from music schools in For complete listings and detailed Reykjavík. 13 information on venues visit Prikið FRI www.grapevine.is 23:00 Hangover Cinema presents: La Haine. Bakkus 22:00 DJ Arni Sveins 6 9 B5 FRI MON 22:00 Live DJs. Bar 11 Bakkus Café Rósenberg 22:00 Óli Dóri. 22:00 DJ Laufey 22:00 Þóra Bjórk album release Café Rósenberg B5 show. 22:00 Varsjárbandalagið. 22:00 Live DJs. Kaffi Zimsen Bar 11 Celtic Cross 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 DJ Biggi Maus. Café Rósenberg Cultura 22:00 Mogaðon. 10 22:00 House DJs. Celtic Cross TUE Den Danske Kro 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Halldór Gunnar Fjallabróðir Den Danske Kro Cultura & Sverrir Bergmann. 22:00 Troubadour Maggi. 22:00 House DJs. Dubliner Den Danske Kro Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur. 22:30 Live Music. English Pub Dubliner 22:00 Live music. 22:30 Live Music. 11 Grand Rokk English Pub WED 21:00 Grapevine Concert. 22:00 Live Music. Hemmi & Valdi Hemmi & Valdi Bakkus 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 Rafskinna DVD-Magazine – Hressó Hitt Húsið Örvar Þóreyjarson Smárason in 22:00 Silfur, DJ Elli. 19:00 Ljósvaki, Bróðir Svartúlfs, Ennimánaskin 2. Jacobsen Ramses and Nóra. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Ekkert Rugl. Hressó 22:00 Jagúar. Kaffibarinn 22:00 Troubadours Eyþór and Andri, Den Danske Kro DJ Bjarni. 22:00 DJ Casanova. 22:00 Pop-quiz. Jacobsen Kaffi Zimsen Dubliner 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:00 TræAngular featuring Casa- 22:30 Live Music. nova, Ben Sol and Diddi Luv. Nordic House Kaffibarinn 20:00 World Music Festival: The Kaffibarinn 22:00 Grapevine Night - Daníel 22:00 DJ Kári. World Music Safari Explosion. Ágúst (Gus Gus) DJs. Prikið Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 DJs Kocoon and Introbeats. 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Sódóma NASA 12 THU 22:00 Pulling Teeth (USA), Bum- 21:30 Ljótu hálfvitarnir and mer, Celestine, Plastic Gods, Hvanndalsbræður. B5 Gone Postal. Prikið 21:00 Live Music. 22:00 Árni. Thorvaldsen Bakkus 22:00 Live DJs. Salurinn Kópavogur 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic

21:00 The 2009 Guitar Festival: Bar 11 Gitarveizla Bjössa Thor. 22:00 Kreppa Nights with live music. 14 Sódóma Beer and shots for 400ISK. SAT 22:00 Jack Live: Who Knew, Biggi Café Rósenberg Bix, Sing For Me Sandra. Bakkus 22:00 Myrra Rós and Elín Ey. Thorvaldsen 22:00 DJ Maggi Leggo Cultura 22:00 Live DJs. B5 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 Live DJs. Den Danske Kro Bar 11 22:00 Scandinavian Night with 22:00 DJ Biggi Maus. 7 Troubadour Raggi. SAT Café Rósenberg Dubliner 22:00 Varsjárbandalagið. 22:30 Live Music. Bakkus Celtic Cross 22:00 DJ The Hand that Rocks English Pub 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Live Music. the Cradle. Cultura B5 Hitt Húsið 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 Live DJs. 19:00 Ljóðatónn and Sykur. Den Danske Kro Bar 11 Hressó 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur. 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and Dubliner Vignir. Café Rósenberg 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Mogaðon. Jacobsen English Pub Café Rót 22:00 CoxButter Night. 22:00 Live Music. 13:00 Classical Dance School Per- Kaffibarinn Grand Rokk formance 22:00 Ívar Pétur. Celtic Cross 21:00 Benefit Concert: Legal aid for Kaffi Zimsen refugees. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 Hemmi & Valdi Cultura ISK. 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 House DJs. NASA Den Danske Kro 20:00 Finlandía Vodka Cup. 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur. Prikið Hresso 22:00 Menn Ársins, DJ Elli. Dubliner 22:00 DJ Moonshine, large beers 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Music & Entertainment | Venue finder Hafnarfjörður Theatre 20:00 Dance Performance “Crazy Amsterdam Dubliner Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma Love Butter”. Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 & Valda Hemmi & Valdi Apótek English Pub Laugavegur 21 | F5 22:00 Local DJs. Austurstræti 16 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | E3 Næsti Bar Hressó B5 Glaumbar Ingólfstræti 1A | E5 22:00 Menn Ársins, DJ Fannar. Bankastræti 5 | E4 Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Óliver Jacobsen Babalú Grand Rokk Laugavegur 20A | F5 22:00 Ladies Night with Óli Ofur. Skólavörðustígur 22 | F5 Smiðjustígur | E5 Ölstofan Kaffibarinn Vegamótastígur | F5 23:45 Kangos Stein Massiv & Batterí Highlander FKNHDSM DJs. Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Lækjargata 10 | F3 Prikið Bankastræti | F5 Kaffi Zimsen Bar 11 Hressó 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Laugavegur 11 | E5 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Rósenberg Klapparstígur 25 | F6 Prikið Barbara Hverfisbarinn 22:00 DJ Danni.. Laugavegur 22 | F6 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Sódóma Reykjavík Sódóma Bjarni Fel Jacobsen Tryggvagata 22 | D3 22:00 Duplex: Retro Stefson, Nolo + Austurstræti 20 | E4 Austurstræti 9 | E3 Sólon guests. Boston Kaffi Hljómalind Bankastræti 7A | E4 Thorvaldsen Laugavegur 28b | F6 Laugavegur 23 | F6 Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live DJs. Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Austurstræti 8 | E3 Hverfisgata 18 | E5 Hafnarstræti 18 | E4 Vegamót 8 Café Paris Kaffibarinn Vegamótastígur 4 | F5 SUN Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | F5 Balthazar Karamba Café Rósenberg Hafnarstræti 1-3| D3 Laugavegur 22 | F6 22:00 Misery Loves Company. Den Danske Kro Celtic Cross London/Reykjavík 22:00 Troubadour Raggi. Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Dubliner Dillon NASA 22:30 Live Music. Laugavegur 30 | F6 Þorvaldsenstræti 2| E3 Jacobsen Celtic Cross 22:00 Gianni Vitiello a.k.a Digi- 01:00 Live Music. 26 talverkehr (DE) and FKNHNDSM. Cultura THU Kaffibarinn 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 Captain Fufanu, Rabbi Ba- Den Danske Kro B5 nanas and Alfons X live. 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur. 21:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen Dubliner Bar 11 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Kreppa Nights with live music. NASA English Pub Beer and shots for 400ISK. 00:00 Techno.is 22:00 Live Music. Bakkus Nordic House Hemmi & Valdi 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic. 15:00 World Music Festival: The 22:00 Local DJs. Café Rósenberg World Music Safari Explosion. Hresso 22:00 Thin Jim and the Cast- Prikið 22:00 Ímynd, DJ Bjarni. aways. 22:00 DJ Deluxxee. Jacobsen Cultura Sódóma 22:00 Kári, Funky Moses and 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 BB & BLAKE CD Release gig. Arnar Ingi. Den Danske Kro Thorvaldsen Kaffibarinn 22:00 Troubadour Magni. 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 B Ruff & Gísli Galdur. Dubliner Kaffi Zimsen 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. English Pub 15 SUN Prikið 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 They call him Mr. D... Hitt Húsið Café Rósenberg Sódóma 20:00 Draumhvörf. 22:00 Svavar Knútur and Mijó. 22:00 TBA Hressó Den Danske Kro Thorvaldsen 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and 22:00 Troubadour Raggi. 22:00 Live DJs. Vignir. Dubliner Iceland Symphony Orchestra 22:30 Live Music. 21 19:30 Romantic Favorites, Kaffi Zimsen SAT conducted by Rumon Gamba with 22:00 Movie night. Inessa Galante soloing. Prikið B5 Kaffi Zimsen 23:00 Hangover Cinema presents: 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 The Big Lebowski. Bar 11 ISK. 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri. Prikið 16 Bakkus 22:00 Gin´n´Juice Night. Polyester MON 22:00 DJ Öfull Pimp Prospect and Eazy-E Tribue Café Rósenberg with Erp and Sesar A. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Ðonin Balurs and Jazz Sódóma 22:00 Dúó Hórpuverk. Group. 22:00 Eldhúsparty FM957. Dubliner Celtic Cross Thorvaldsen 22:30 Live Music. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Mojito Night. Mojitos for Kaffi Zimsen Cultura 1000ISK and beer for 500ISK. 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 22:00 House DJs. Den Danske Kro 27 17 22:00 Live Music. FRI TUE Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. B5 Café Rósenberg English Pub 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 Hjaltalin. 22:00 Live Music. Bar 11 Den Danske Kro Grand Rokk 22:00 DJ Matti. 22:00 Troubadour Maggi. 21:00 Deep Jimi and the Zep Bakkus Creams. 22:00 DJ Kári. 18 Hemmi & Valdi Café Rósenberg WED 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 Ljótu Hálfvitarnir. Hresso Celtic Cross Bakkus 22:00 Dalton, DJ Bjarni. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Kino Klúbbur presents “Home Jacobsen Cultura Movie” by Chris Smith 22:00 Chicago Warehouse. 22:00 House DJs. Café Rósenberg Kaffibarinn Den Danske Kro 22:00 Jóm Múla (Hjaltalin) 23:45 Maggi Legó. 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur. Den Danske Kro Kaffi Zimsen Dubliner 22:00 Pop-quiz Night. 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:30 Live Music. Dubliner Prikið English Pub 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Puff Daddy Night with Gísli 22:00 Live Music. Kaffibarinn and Benna. Hemmi & Valdi 22:00 FKNHDSM DJs. Sódóma 22:00 Local DJs. Prikið 22:00 TBA Hressó 22:00 Fight Night. Thorvaldsen 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and 22:00 Live DJs. Vignir, DJ Fannar. 19 Kaffibarinn THU 22 22:00 Alfons X. SUN Kaffi Zimsen B5 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 21:00 Live Music. Café Rósenberg Prikið Bakkus 22:00 Bóka Upplestur and Ljóa. 21:00 V.I.P. Night with Danna. 22:00 DJ set Two Step Horror. Cultura Sódóma Bar 11 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 Kimono + guests. 22:00 Kreppa Nights with live music. Den Danske Kro Thorvaldsen Beer and shots for 400ISK. 22:00 Troubadour Raggi. 22:00 Live DJs. Café Rósenberg Dubliner 22:00 Árstíðir. 22:30 Live Music. 28 Cultura Hallgrímskirkja SAT 22:00 House DJs. 16:00 World Premiere of St. Cecilia Den Danske Kro Oratorio. B5 FRIDAY 13 NOVEMBER 22:00 Troubadour Magni & Hre- Prikið 22:00 Live DJs. imur. 23:00 Hangover Cinema presents: Bar 11 >> Grapevine Concert Dubliner The Thing. 22:00 DJ Gulli Ósama. 22:30 Live Music. Bakkus English Pub 23 22:00 DJ Ívar Pétur SATURDAY 14 NOVEMBER 22:00 Live Music. MON Café Rósenberg Hitt Húsið 22:00 Ljótu Hálfvitarnir. >> Benefit Concert: 20:00 Boba and guests. Café Rósenberg Celtic Cross Legal Aid for Refugees Hresso 22:00 Tom Hannay. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Gummi, Richard Scobie. Dubliner Cultura Iceland Symphony Orchestra 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 House DJs. 19:30 Schumann and Brahms, Kaffi Zimsen Den Danske Kro SATURDAY 21 NOVEMBER conducted by Eva Ollikainen with 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 22:00 Halldór Gunnar Fjallabróðir >> Deep Jimi and the Zep Creams Antti Siirala soloing. & Sverrir Bergman. Jacobsen 24 Dubliner 22:00 Weirdcore Night. TUE 22:30 Live Music. SATURDAY 28 NOVEMBER Kaffibarinn Café Rósenberg English Pub 22:00 Alfons X, Stereo Hypnosis 22:00 Live Music. >> Gæðablóð live. 22:00 Lána, Koi and Hjórvar. Den Danske Kro Grand Rokk Concert to Celebrate the Release Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Troubadour Maggi. 21:00 Gæðablóð: Debut album 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for Dubliner release concert. of their Debut Album 490ISK. 22:30 Live Music. Hemmi & Valdi Prikið 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 DJ Árma, large beers for 25 Hressó 800ISK. WED 22:00 Ímynd, DJ Fannar. Sódóma Kaffibarinn 22:00 Eldhúsparty FM957. Bakkus 22:00 Sexy Lazer. Thorvaldsen 22:00 Kino Klúbbur presents Euro- Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Mojito Night. Mojitos for pean Premiere “Modus Operandi” 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 1000ISK and beer for 500ISK. by Frankie Latina. Prikið Café Rósenberg 21:00 V.I.P Night with Introbeats, 20 22:00 Kristinn. Didda Fel and Homies. FRI Den Danske Kro Sódóma 22:00 Pop-quiz. 22:00 Iron Maiden Tribute gig. B5 Dubliner Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live DJs. 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Live DJs. Bar 11 Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Matti. 23:45 DJ Indjáni. Café Rósenberg Prikið 22:00 Þórir Baldurs and Jazz 22:00 Poetry Night with Dóra DNA. Group. MUSIC gogoyoko presents: 12 NOVEMBER/ Nov. DECEMBER

– continued – Stereo Hypnosis - Grapevine 29 SUN Album Release Concert Café Rósenberg Sódóma Reykjavík 22:00 22:00 Bóka Upplestur and Ljóa. Den Danske Kro 1.000 ISK Movie Nights Grand 22:00 Troubadour Raggi. Amicable father-son ambient project Dubliner Stereo Hypnosis invite you to their Bakkus 22:00 22:30 Live Music. Hafnarborg release concert, in exchange for a Every Wednesday, Free 20:00 The Reykjavík Trio. measly 1.000 krónur. This admittance Prikið fee comes with an alcoholic beverage Seems there’s a whole lot of various 23:00 Hangover Cinema presents: to warm you up and if you add another, movie nights popping up at venues Rock around Reykjavík. Perhaps there is a The Cable Guy. pathetic thousand-krónur bill, you'll get their latest CD, Hypnogogia, too. And need to fill the void of independent film 30 if that isn't enough for you, they'll be screenings since the movie theatres MON joined by Ruxpin & the West End happy in this town only tend to show lame Café Rósenberg pin DJ AnDre! If you're still not happy, blockbusters. Or maybe it’s because 22:00 Ellen Kristjans album release well, then you're just ungrateful. C'mon! darkness is dawning upon us and the concert. Don't be like that, they're awesome! AJ need to snuggle up with popcorn and a Dubliner movie is growing greater. Whatever the 22:30 Live Music. reason, we’re loving it. Kaffi Zimsen Latest to join the movie night 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. bunch is Bakkus. Every Wednesday 22 the groups Rafskinna, Kino Klúbbur 1 TUE Nov. and Slash & Gore Video take turns presenting quality films. Among the Café Rósenberg movies coming up is Modus Operandi 22:00. Reynir Sig and Jazz Band. by Frankie Latina which will be screened Den Danske Kro by Kino Klúbbur on November 18. It’s 22:00 Live Music. been raved about since its premiere and Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. received critical acclaim from all over. Lights On The Highway And it’s all for free! LP 2 WED God’s Song Hallgrim’s Church 17:00 Bakkus 3500 ISK Snorri Helgason 22:00 Slash & Gore Video Night. Café Rósenberg No trip to Reykjavík, or Iceland for that commissioned an hour long piece to 22:00 BUFF. matter, is complete without a visit to celebrate St. Cecilia, the patron saint of Den Danske Kro Hallgrim´s Church. Perched atop one of music. The resulting oratorio, written 22:00 Pop-quiz Night. the tallest hills in the city, the shiny white by Askell Másson and featuring four Markús Bjarnason & Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. church resembles a tiara, or a rocket soloists, a choir, an orchestra and two Kaffibarinn ship taking off. Either way, this church is organs promises to be one of the few The Diversion Sessions 22:00 Bedroom Community 18 - awesome in almost every regard. events we’re comfortable labeling mind- Ben Frost & Valgeir Sigurðsson. But there’s awesome, and then there’s blowing and family friendly. MZ fucking awesome. The Friends of the 3 Arts Society Hallgrímskirkja have Prins Póló THU B5 22:00 Live Music. Bar 11 22:00 Kreppa Nights with live music. Beer and shots for 400ISK. Café Rósenberg 22:00 BUFF. Cultura 22:00 House DJs. Den Danske Kro 22:00 Scandinavien Night with Troubadour Raggi. Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Hafnarborg 12:00 Lunch Time Concert with Grand Rokk Antonia Hevesi and Dísella Lárusdóttir. Iceland Symphony Orchestra 22:00 19:30 Chopin & Beethoven, conducted by Robert Spano with Ástríður Alda Sigurðardóttir soloing. Kaffi Zimsen Friday November 13 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 ISK. Sódóma 22:00 Eldhúsparty FM957. 1.000 ISK Thorvaldsen 22:00 Mojito Night. Mojitos for 1000ISK and beer for 500ISK.

Go Out, Kinda Hressó, Den Danske Kro, Café Rosenberg, and More 6 All Month! (November) Nov. November strikes Iceland and with it comes the urge to hibernate: night falls quickly, the bars quiet down, and taking it easy – or cosy – starts sounding terribly appealing. But sitting at home is dull, your cat keeps shitting on the floor and you're tired of surfing the filth, trash and idiocy of the Internet. What to do? Well, it's time to take a 2009 Guitar Festival lesson from the Cold War. Salurinn Kópavogi 21:00 While some historians may have you believe there were only two sides to the Cold War – the Soviets, and, well, the rest of the world – this is untrue. Take Tito's 2500 ISK Yugoslavia, which considered itself an unaligned state and practiced what was For those who do in fact enjoy venturing labeled "a third way." out of the Reykjavík 101 area and are So this month, the Grapevine suggests you adopt the "third way." Don´t build into guitars – this is for you. The 2009 yourself an impenetrable cocoon, but don´t rage like a freak either. Compromise Guitar Festival will be held at Salurinn in instead, and come see one of Reykjavík´s renowned troubadours! Acoustic the suburb of Kópavogur and is lead by melodies, warm voices and rambling lyrics: this is what winter's all about. Hressó, none other than Björn Thoroddsen, one Den Danske Kro and Rósenberg all feature troubadour performances regularly. Grab of Iceland's leading jazz guitarists. The a beer, get cosy, and enjoy time away from your filthy cat. MZ country’s finest and most famed jazz, blues and rock guitarists join forces to please the crowds. LP 6 14 13 14 Nov. Nov. Nov. Nov.

Pop in at the Laxness residence Young Art Festival 2009 (Unglist) Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Various Locations in Reykjavík Permanent Exhibition 500ISK Did you know that the home and Free workplace of legendary Icelandic The Young Art Festival is an annual event dedicated to those youngsters who live author Halldór Laxness is open for all? and breathe creativity. This cultural feast takes place just over a week at various Visitors can explore the unchanged 13.-14. nóvember 2009 locations in Reykjavík and it is organized by Hitt Húsið, the cultural centre for young home of the Nobel Prize winner people. and take a stroll in its beautiful Í Norræna Húsinu The schedule is diverse with music, design, fine art, happenings and theatre countryside surroundings. Laxness’ Another World Jazz frá Ghana DK all mixed together and served by young artists. You can discover classical dance, literature reflects the cultural, political Dida Indie etnó popp GRL compete in an art marathon or a theatre competition, check out a fashion show…it’s and intellectual movements that Multicultural MusicDj Nad JeeExtravaganza Bollywood dans tónlist NO all there for your likings and it’s all for free! LP transformed the world at the time and Helgi og Hljóðfæraleikararnir Óttalaus þjóðlagatónlist IS The Nordic House ShavaFriday Bhangra tónlist20:00 frá Punjaband SaturdayFI 15:00 at the museum the tale of his life is Skrå Óttalaus þjóðlagatónlist ÁL Young Art Festival 2009 Schedule: told through photographs and video Tickets: 2500ISK Trans-NationsFestival Pass: Cora tónlist 4500ISK frá Gambíu DK footage. The mere twenty minute The Nordic House has been more conspicuous in recent times than ever before. Friday November 6 trip to Gljúfrasteinn in the valley of The good institution has hosted vast segments of art festivals such as RIFF, Iceland Hitt Húsið 1-5 pm Mosfellsdalur is well worth it. LP Airwaves and Sequences. In November, this pack of energetic event hosts will offer Art Marathon us some new fruit from their grand basket: a multicultural music festival that takes The fabulous art marathon will start here. Participants are given info about the place over the course of a weekend. marathon. Nice prizes are given away for the best artwork from our friends at Some of you readers might immediately get hung-over when a music festival Myndlistarskólinn í Reykjavík and Lucas art products. is mentioned, with Airwaves but a fortnight in our past. Don’t be alarmed – this is Hitt Húsið 3pm not one of those drunken hipsterfests. This is actually a very interesting event, as it Black & white are colours! combines the North and the South: The World Music Safari Explosion. Some people state that black & white are not colours but photographer Birta Rán The fest boasts of an interesting fusion line-up of Nordic Artists that all play Björgvinsdóttir disagrees. She has recently been working on this theme of black & music styles originated in the Southern hemisphere. Every performer originates from white; the gray of everyday life and the beauty of winter. a more Southern country and is (or was at one time) an immigrant to the North. This Hitt Húsið 8pm phenomenon is of course brought to life late in Icelandic wintertime to cheer folks Musicbox #1 up and let them enjoy a taste of art derived from warmer climates, as well as to show Concert at Unglist 2009 how these expats have incorporated Scandinavian elements into their music. Ljósvaki, Bróðir Svartúlfs, Ramses and Nóra To Build a Room Some interesting acts in the line up include Finland’s Shava and DJ Nad of One’s Own Jee from Norway. Shava plays Bhangra in Finnish and has been described thusly: Saturday November 7 “Shava, Shava! The Sound of Finnish Bhangra: What you get when you fuse Finnish Café Rót 1-2:30pm Reykjavík Art Museum rap style chanting with Pun...” Foaming cup of coffee November 7 – January 31 DJ Nad Jee also plays Bhangra, but infuses in with rougher beats and touches Students from the Classical Dance School will be performing. Free even on Indian pop-culture songs. Be sure to bring your dancing shoes, ‘cause you Café Rót 8pm might be lured into the groove into a crazy evening of Bhangra, Bollywood, beats Beat&Brass Högna Sigurðardóttir, who turns 80 and beer. SKK Beat&Brass is a musical buffet loaded with goodies: jazz, improvisation, this year, is widely-recognized as the experimental and whatever the moment will give us. first woman to practice architecture in Iceland. An internationally-acclaimed Sunday November 8 master, Sigurðardóttir is known for Borgarleikhúsið (The City Theater) 2pm addressing her structures as integral And now we dance wholes and this approach has distinct There is obviously no resession among the new & young dancers in Reykjavík; ramifications: accessories, furniture, creativity and power will be all over the place...and now we dance! flora and the surrounding environment The Nordic House 8pm are all harnessed to create beautifully Classic Young art geometric buildings. Although Classical concert with participants from various music schools in the city. Sigurðardóttir resides in France, some of here best works are right here in Monday November 9 Iceland. Dómkirkjan 8pm A recent donation of her works Students from LHÍ perform the beautiful piano quartet nr.3 by Brahms. will be on display alongside a complete catalogue at the Reykjavík Art Wednesday November 11 Museum until the end of January, 2010. The Icelandic Opera House 8pm Stop by on the 14th at 14:00 for a panel The Theatre Competition – Theatre Sport discussion. MZ Welcome to Leiktu Betur, the acting improvising competition of the collages in Reykjavík. The main goal is to entertain and be entertained.

Thursday November 12 Hitt Húsið 8pm Musicbox #2 Concert at Unglist 2009 Bárujárn, Ljóðatónn, Sykur and Me, the Slumbering Napoleon.

Saturday November 14 The Hall of Skates in Laugardalur 8pm Fashion show from Reykjavík Technical College.

This spring, audiences were left deeply moved by actress/director Margrét Vilhjálmsdóttir’s presentation of her Spirit of Place and Narrative experimental theatre piece Orbis Terræ – ORA. She’s doing it again. Reykjavík Art Museum Premiering at an industrial warehouse Hafnarhús André Kertész in Grótta today, Vilhjálmsdóttir's latest multimedia epic, Hnykill, will run until October 29 – January 3 December and is sure to poke, provoke Free and raise a number of questions with All round artsy character Egill the viewer. Sæbjörnsson is known for his unusual Ma France Dealing with themes such as the fusion of music, sound, video and subconscious, perception, dreams vs. installations. This time he graces reality and the human mind, Hnykill is The Reykjavík Art Museum with his presented in a similar fashion to Orbis 26 September 2009 – 17 January 2010 exhibit “Spirit of Place and Narrative,” Hnykill Terræ, where each audience member a display of his works dating from Bygggarðar 5, Seltjarnarnes is individually lead through the world 2006. The exhibit features a dialogue crafted by Vilhjálmsdóttir and the 20:00 between characters or objects that participating team of actors, musicians express events or time and Egill November 6, 9, 13, 15 and 22 and visual artists. Check out Hnykill explores the thought of each person for some true food for thought in Admission 3.000ISK knowing what will cross his or her path November – more information available Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. 411 6390 · www.photomuseum.is through prior knowledge. It’s an exhibit at www.facebook.com/hnykill- Opening hours 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends · ADMISSION FREE that will get you thinking. LP listafelag. Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI

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UR GARÐ DA AN GR Maritime Museum 1 2 3 Th4e 5 Old Harbour Old Depart for whale and puffin watching tours from the old Harbou ST r MAPAU harbour, a lively area, offering MAP an assortment of restaurants ÁNAN and activity centres Places We Like AMÝR AR GA 1 Á Næstu Grösum TA NÝL 15 Laugavegi 20b END Old 6 U Harbour GAT Á Næstu Grösum is an allGU vegetarianR A Area restaurant right in theESVE city centre that MN features a friendlyFRA atmosphere and R U R fair prices. There is always at least G ÁNA VEST RG 4 Future one vegan soup on offer and the daily ATA UR GE B GAT IR Concert GARSTÍ BÁRUG A SG special portions are big and alwaysR A Hall AT TA satisfying. There is even some organicBO A A Reykjavík wine on offer. RA ÖL AT D Art U SG I ÆÐ GA I Museum BR TA 2 Hemmi og Valdi ÆG ÆT Main TR POSTERS YG Laugavegur 21 Tourist GV 7 ASTR Info AG Down AT VINYL The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi A D Taxi Town was probably 2008’s most surprising GARÐ 17HAFNAR I 3 S SÆBR crowd pleaser. The cosy hangout TÚNG A ST 8 K ATA ÆT US RÆTI ÚL R TUR DVD advanced from being a toasty retreat, T ST The AG AU Open S RÆ T A where you could get cheap beer and AL Austur I Culture TA T mon–fri: 11–19 I National have a quiet chat, into being a chock- AÐ völlur T House sat: 11–18 Park 10 Theatre CD RÆ full concert venue and an all-nightATA G KIRK party place. And believe me,A the new JUST BA 13 LIND AUT LL RÆ N 5 HVE ÍGUR AR Skyline SÆBR TI K T VA STH.ST ASTR GA Hverfisgata 82 · sími 551-1195 atmosphere is brilliant. SKK Icelandic ATA 12 RF S TA Ó G IS Vesturbæjar P ÆT G Parliament ATA AR HOFS SÓ E AR I

Swimming LV J TI “Financial

A PP WE ALSO BUY ∆ L K 2 Pool LAG I UR RÆ 9 LA 3 AT LÆ T ÍG VINYL · DVD · CD Habibi A ÆT K District” A S R ST Hafnarstræti 18 AT TS Lauga A ST TI NS T RG City OL vegu14 r HR AT FS 1 A ÚN This small restaurant offers up a H V ART INGB Hall Taxi RÆR BORG concise menu of delicious Arabic ÐU RG LaÓL ugavegur T 18 SU Up NA ÞING NG cuisine, from shawarma toRA kebabs and INGÓLReykjavík’s mARSain shopping SK U AR falafels. The staff is really friendlyT and and culture AÐstreet, featuring TJ T Ó Town HVE The F LA RF accommodating of requests to kick a wide rangGS e of bars, bistros, Tower GUR IS R V R G cafes and restaurants. U ATA EGUR E ÖR up the spiciness or tone it down if the VE B ÍG A L UV ÐU T AU

customer so desires. Habibi seriously ÁS City TA GA

KJ ST AS VEGU

Pond UF G ÚN hits the spot after hours of partying GA R SKÚL R E I S ÍGUR T KK TISG R AT (or any other time of day) so it’s LA AG ÍK IN A AT ATA convenient that the place is open until ÞÓ A Hlemmur NÓ FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT RSG UR Bus 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday. CF National ST ÍG West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA ST B of Iceland VIT S A Side UR G N 4 Krua Thai NJ RR EL ÁLSG HÁ A TÚN ∆ Tryggvagötu 14 IM AT AT NO A BARÓ S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BE BI R Swimming This is the best affordable Thai food on kirkja GÞÓ offer in Reykjavík. Rice is always fluffy, BALDURSG RUG Pool Church ATA LAU SÓLE the spicy kick is just right and the GUR G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV spring rolls are always crispy cylinders AT GA TÍ EG AG AR UR YJ AG RS of deliciousness. The servings are BR ARÐ AR The Einar hearty too, so you’re bound to leave NJ RÁ A GA Jónsson satisfied. CF H Sundhöllin Museum UÐ TA Swimming S A K University R Pool RA IPHOL S AT GU KIPH of Iceland BERG OL RG SSTÍ Hljómskáli T T EI ÐU ÚN Ristorante \Bar Park ST R BARÓN ÍK 5 Kaffitár SU University HR AÐ East AT SG of Iceland INGB ARST AT UT NÓ Bankastræti 8 Park L T R A RA Side AU RÆ AU B AU Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a FÁ A I T TI SV BR comfortable little café with a great RR selection of coffee, tea and baked EGUR RS HÁ NO TEIGSVE goods on offer. Since Kaffitár is also S NA GUR a big-name Icelandic roasterie the GUN Miklatún caffeinated beverages on the menu Nordic House ÍGUR Culture Center Park are quality. The wi-fi makes this a nice FLÓK VA AG place to sit and chill with your laptop TNSMÝR ÁRST A R TA as well. CF ARVE GA ÐA 7 8 9 GUR ML Kjarvalsstaðir Kolaportið PizzaTA King Kaffibarinnn A HR AU 6 R National Sægreifinn GA INGB Tryggvagata 19 HafnarstrætiAR 18 BergstaðastrætiBS 1Í RA Museum UT T Verbúð 8, Geirsgata RÐ Coach Reykjavík’s massive flea market is a ToA be honest, this isn’t the best pizza Weekends are somewhatTerminal overrated at AU Down by the Reykjavík harbour, NJ wonderful place to get lost for a few up for grabs, but it’s cheap, not pre- Kaffibarinn if you ask me. Don’t get me BR

Sægreifinn fish shop and restaurant Ð Í hours, rummaging through stall upon heated (like at various other pizza wrong, they can be brilliant if you’re AR is truly a unique establishment. The HR L stall of potential treasures. There places downtown), and the guys are completely pissed, the DJ is fresh and ÝR menu features various fish dishes IN AH are heaps of used clothing, knitwear rather cool. Their pizzas are always the crowd is full-blooded,GB still the M R U (including most of the “crazy Icelandic AU NG and other yard-sale type goods from bulletproof, and they offer various weekdays are better. ItT doesn’t matter B food” you’ll want to tell your friends LA ÓLS decades of yore, and a large food great offers on top of it, which you when you pop in, you’re always treated TAÐ INGL you had) and a rich portion of the best MIK ARH section with fish, meats and baked should definitely check out. SKK like a pal rather than a customer, and LA LÍ KR lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. Good BR Ð goods. Check out the vintage post you should always expect get caught in AUT food and welcoming service make this Kringlan cards and prints at the table nearRey thekjav ík some shenanigan, whether it’s a crazy Shopping

place a must-try. Domestic

army surplus. CF Monday bender or a wacko Tuesday... Center∆ ∆ Airport well... bender. SKK

Tel +354 577 60 50 www.sixt.is Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI

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UR GARÐ DA AN GR Maritime Museum The 6 7 8 9 10 13 Kisan Old Harbour Old Laugavegur 7 Depart for whale and puffin For a map of outside downtown watching tours from the old Harbou Reykjavík check out links on This store is incredibly cool. It’s ST r AU harbour, a lively area, offering www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic stocked with really unique and quirky an assortment of restaurants clothes, outerwear, accessories and ÁNAN phonebook website www.ja.is MÝR and activity centres handbags, plus they have an adorable AR section of kids clothes, kitschy vintage GA toys and books and even interior TA NÝLE design items. Wicked place; definitely ND Old U Harbour worth a visit. CF GAT GUR A Area ESVE MN FRA R U R G ÁNA VEST RG Future ATA UR GE 14 Barbara GAT IR Concert GARSTÍ BÁRUG A SG R A Hall Laugavegur 22 AT TA BO A A Reykjavík At Laugavegur 22, above Karamba, RA ÖL AT D Art Barbara serves up a lively atmosphere U SG I ÆÐ GA I Museum BR TA for Reykjavík’s gay community and ÆG ÆT Main TR YG anybody else who just wants to dance Tourist GV and have a good time. The first level is ASTR Info AG Down AT made for dancing and is often packed A Taxi Town with sweaty bodies, while the second GARÐ I HAFNAR level of the bar offers a place to sit, S SÆBR TÚNG A ST K ATA ÆT US RÆTI ÚL drink and chat and another in which to R TUR T ST The AG AU S RÆ smoke. CF T A AL Austur I Culture TA T I National AÐ völlur T House Park Theatre ATA RÆ G KIRK A JUST BA LIND 15 SushismiðjanAUT LL RÆ N HVE ÍGUR AR Skyline SÆBR TI K T VA STH.ST ASTR GA Icelandic ATA RF S TA Geirsgötu 3 Ó G IS Vesturbæjar P ÆT G Parliament ATA AR HOFS SÓ AR I

Swimming LV J TI This is a seriously great place to“Financial

A PP ∆ L K Pool LAG I UR grab a quick and quality sushi lunch. RÆ LA AT LÆ T ÍG A ÆT K District” A S Pre-prepared boxes of maki and nigiri R ST AT TS Lauga are reasonable priced and really well A ST TI NS T RG City OL vegu14 r HR AT FS 11 A made, amply filled withÚN deliciously H V ART INGB Hall Taxi RÆR 16 BORG ÐU RG LaÓL ugavegur T 18 fresh ingredients. The indoor seating SU Up NA ÞING NG area is limited to some stools and RA INGÓLReykjavík’s mARSain shopping SK outward-facing wall-mounted U AR and culture AÐstreet, featuring T R TJ T Ó Town HVE The LA RF tabletops but there are a couple of a wide rangGS e of bars, bistros, Tower GU IS R V R G tables and chairs set up outside the cafes and restaurants. U ATA EGUR E ÖR VE B ÍG front door for those wanting to watch A L UV ÐU T AU

City ÁS TA GA the ships and tourists in the harbour KJ ST AS VEGU

Pond UF G ÚN GA R SKÚL R E I S ÍGUR T while they eat. CF KK TISG R AT LA AG ÍK IN A AT ATA ÞÓ A Hlemmur NÓ FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT National RSG UR Bus 16 Boston ST ÍG West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA ST B Laugavegur 28 of Iceland VIT S A Side UR N NJ RR EL ÁLSG Like an older sibling to the fabledHÁ A TÚN ∆ IM AT AT NO (now deceased) Sirkús, Boston is a A BARÓ S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BE warm and mellow second-floor bar BI R Swimming kirkja GÞÓ on Laugavegur that plays host to the BALDURSG RUG Pool Church ATA arty party crowd. The baroqueLAU wall SÓLE GUR G A TA BRAUTARdressingsHOLT and deep, rich colouredAV AT GA TÍ EG AG AR décor make this bar feel pretty swank,U R YJ AG RS BR ARÐ but Boston also serves up some AR The Einar NJ RÁ A reasonably priced food earlier in the GA Jónsson Sundhöllin Museum UÐ evening, so it’s not too swank. CF TA Swimming S A K University R Pool RA IPHOL S AT GU KIPH of Iceland BERG OL RG SSTÍ 17 Hljómskáli T Austur T EI ÐU ÚN Park ST R BARÓN Austurstræti 7 ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT SG of Iceland INGB ARST AT UT Sleek andNÓ shiny, this new restaurant Park L T R A RA Side and bar is a straight-up boutique AU RÆ AU B AU FÁ A T TI hot spot for stylish kids and trendy SV BR RR professionals alike. Appropriate for EGUR RS HÁ NO TE formal business meetings but casual S NA IGSVE GUR enough for the roll-out-bed-at-5pm

GUN crowd, they serve up ample, satisfying, Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR modern dishes at reasonable prices. Culture Center Park FLÓK This is also one of the rare places to VA AG TNSMÝR ÁRST A get a full breakfast all day long! It’s R TA ARVE really fucking good too. RL GA ÐA GUR ML 11 12 Kjarvalsstaðir TA 10 Santa Maria AU Prikið A HR Grái Kötturinn National GA INGB R 18 Karamba AR BSÍ HverfisgataRA 16a Laugavegur 22 BankastrætiMuseum 12 UT T RÐ Coach Laugavegur 22 A Terminal Super relaxed and cozy diner/café On Laugavegur, Santa Maria offers Prikið is one of those places that AU NJ below street level. This place makes a fairly extensive menu of Mexican shape-shifts. It’s a warm café with Hotspot in town Karamba is a colourful BR Ð Í the best hangover breakfast ever (the dishes and drinks at a really photographs of their senior frequenters AR L and eclectic bar on Laugavegur with HR truck!) and any-other-day breakfast as reasonable price – possibly some on weekday mornings, a hung-over ÝR IN AH a comfortable atmosphere, typically GB well. It’s a nice and relaxing place to of the best in the city. The décor is hangout on weekend afternoons, and M R great music and a chill crowd. This is U AU NG T eat and increase your caffeine intake colourful and welcoming, the portions during nights it’s filled to the brim a goodB place to relax or to do some LA ÓLS and chill with friends or with some are generous and the service is fast with what remains of Iceland’s hip serious drinking.TAÐ Plus, their decors INGL MIK ARH reading material. CF and friendly. Recommended. CF LABRhop scene. Go there in daytime for the are done strictly byLÍ Grapevine-friendlyÐ KR cheapAU burgers; enter at night for some Reykjavík T artists, such as Lóa (who does our Kringlan

Domestic OTT hip-hop debauchery, old skool comics), Hugleikur Dagsson (who Shopping

and the latest bangers alike. SKK Center∆ ∆ Airport illustrates the monster column) and Bobby Breiðholt (who’s done a lot of nice illustrations for us); they are truly a sight to behold. CF ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

atides” (1984), “Les fiancées du Pont Mac Donald” (1961) and ”Paris, je Cocktail pleasures and t’aime” (2006). Visual stimulation 14 1pm Gerðuberg Cultural Center Through the years How to use the listings Folk artist Sigurbjörg Sigurjónsdót- Venues are listed alphabetically by day. tir exhibits pastel, watercolors and For complete listings and detailed painted china in Boginn. Ongoing until information on venues visit January 3. www.grapevine.is

14 3pm Reykjavík Museum of Photography Alliance Francaise presents “Paris OPENING á l´Affiche!´” NOVEMBER A free screening of “Quai Bourbon” (1986), “Au Père-Lachaise” (1986) and ”Le Ballon Rouge” (1956). 6 3pm Hitt Húsið 21 1pm Black & White Are Colours! Así Art Museum Exhibit featuring the works of pho- Luminous Flux tographer Birta Rán Björgvinsdóttir. Exhibit featuring the works of Jóhanna Ongoing until November 17. H. Þorkelsdóttir. The artist studies light in various forms and how it affects us. 7 11am In the darkness of the arctic winter Hafnarborg (Hafnarfjörður Cen- she invites guests to a photosynthesis tre of Culture and Fine Art) at the museum. Ongoing until Decem- The Selection ber 13. Exhibit featuring Icelandic photo- Halldór Ragnarsson graphs 1866-2009 by 13 Icelandic Installation by Halldór Ragnarsson in photographers. A curator’s talk with Gryfjan. Ongoing until December 13. Einar Falur Ingólfsson will be held on November 15 at 3pm. Ongoing until 21 10am January 3 2010. Reykjavík Art Museum Where is the clock? Kjarvalsstaðir Paintings and installations by Davíð Steinunn Þór Halldórsson. An artist’s talk will be Exhibit offering a look at designer held on November 22 at 3pm. Ongoing editions of unique garments not previ- until January 3 2010. ously displayed in Iceland. Ongoing until January 31 2010. 7 4pm Stoneworks Nordic House At this workshop, guests are invited to Icelandic Printmakers Association try their hands at projects related to 40th Anniversary design, weaving methods, and cloth- Exhibit featuring the works of forty ing. Ongoing until January 31 2010. members of the Icelandic Printmakers Association. Showing new prints rang- ing from lithographs to digital prints. Ongoing until December 5. ONGOING 7 4pm Reykjavík Art Museum ASÍ Art Museum Kjarvalsstaðir October 24 - November 15 Högna Sigurðardóttir – Matter and Gunnfríður Jónsdóttir Spirit in Architecture An exhibition of the works of sculptor Iceland is a dish best served cold The first retrospective of the works of Gunnfríður Jónsdóttir. architect Högna Sigurðardóttir, the Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture first woman to practice architecture in Museum Iceland. Ongoing until Januay 31. Permanent Exhibition: The Shape of Line. A new retrospective of works by 7 3pm Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Reykjavík Museum of Photography focuses on abstract works from 1945 Alliance Francaise presents “Paris onwards. á l´Affiche!´” May 01- April 30 2010 A free screening of “Les dites Cari- RHYTHM- Ásmundur and Our Age Art | Venue finder 551 1166 - www.bogf.is 101 Gallery Gallery Ágúst Tue–Sun 11–17 Hverfisgata 18A | F6 Baldursgata 12 | F9 www.listasafn.is Thu–Sat 14–17 and by appoint- Wed–Sat 12–17 The National ment www.galleriagust.is Museum Suðurgata 41 | www.101hotel. Gallery Fold C9 Open daily 10–17 is/101hotel/101gallery/ Rauðarástígur 14-16 | J9 natmus.is/ Artótek Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Tryggvagata 15 | D5 Sun 14–16 The Nordic House Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri www.myndlist.is Sturlugata 5 | C11 Tue–Sun 12–17 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Gallery Kling & Bang www.nordice.is/ www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ Hverfisgata 42 | G7 Artotek Thurs–Sun from 14–18 The Numismatic Museum Don’t let the rough ASÍ Art Museum this.is/klingogbang/ Einholt 4 | K9 Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. Freyugata 41 | G10 Gallery Turpentine Tue–Sun 13–17 Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 Reykjavík 871+/-2 Árbæjarsafn Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat 11–16 Aðalstræti 17 | D6 exterior fool you! Kistuhylur 4 www.turpentine.is Open daily 10–17 The Culture House Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Reykjavík Art Gallery Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Gerðuberg 3-5 Skúlagata 28 | H6 Open daily 11–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 Scheduled Busses www.thjodmenning.is Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík Art Museum Dwarf Gallery www.gerduberg.is Open daily 10–16 Linienbusse Grundarstígur 21 | H8 Hitt Húsið www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Opening Hours: Fri and Sat – Gallery Tukt Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- 18–20 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E6 ture Museum Sigtún Linjebussar www.this.is/birta www.hitthusid.is Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17 | The Einar Jónsson Museum i8 Gallery E5 Bus régulier Kjarvalsstaðir Eiriksgata | G9 Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Flókagata | Tue–Sun 14–17 Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and K11 Áætlunarbílar www.skulptur.is by appointment. www.i8.is Reykjavík City Theatre Listabraut 3 Fótógrafí Living Art Museum Skólavörðustígur 4a | F7 Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Reykjavík Maritime Museum www.fotografi.is Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Grandagarður 8 | C3 Gallery 100° 13–22. www.nylo.is Reykjavík Museum of Pho- Bæjarháls 1 Lost Horse Gallery tography www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ Skólastræti 1 | F6 Tryggvagata 16 | D5 Open weekdays from Weekends from 13–19 and by Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun Our busses are warm 08:30–16:00 appointment on weekdays. 13–17 www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavi- Gallery Auga fyrir Auga Hafnarborg kur.is Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Strandgötu 34, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Gallery StartArt Hafnarfjörður Laugarnestangi 70 on the inside! Laugavegur 12B | G7 The National Gallery of Tue–Sat 1–17 Iceland www.startart.is Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 This exhibition showcases contempo- funded by Kristnihátíðarsjóður (the rary artists that tackle similar issues Millennium Fund). Finds from some of as Ásmundur did in his time, but in a these excavations are on display in an ART context of a new age. exhibition suitable for the whole family. The Culture House The Numismatic Museum GALLERIES & MUSEUMS Permanent Exhibition: Permanent exhibition: Medieval Manuscripts The Central Bank of Iceland and the Taste the March 28- January 10 2010 National Museum of Iceland jointly ICELAND::FILM operate a numismatic collection con- This exhibition traces for the first time sisting of Icelandic notes and coins. the development of Icelandic filmmak- Ráðhús Reykjavíkur best of ing from its origins around 1904 to the Dulin Himintungl year 2008. Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama September 16 - December 1 photos of Iceland. Postal History and Transport Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Iceland ... September 25 - November 25 Permanent exhibition: Goðar Íslands and Múmíumúsin The Settlement Exhibition Sigurður Gunnarsson and Kristín Elva Reykjavík Art Museum Rögnvaldsdóttir exhibit their works. Hafnarhús October 12 - November 31 September 17 - January 3 2010 Flora Islandica The Crated Rooms in Iceland The Culture House exhibits the book A new installation by world-renowned Flora Islandica, containing 271 draw- artist Yoshitomo Nara in collaboration Icelandic ings by Eggert Pétursson. with Hideki Toyoshima. The room- The Library Room sized installation, which consists of Gourmet Fiest Current exhibitions: shipping crates and billboards, places August 12 - ongoing Nara’s iconic images in a new and Starts with a shot of the infamous National Archives of Iceland - 90 unexpected context. Icelandic spirit Brennívín years in the museum building. 29 October 2009 – 3 January 2010 Commemorating the 100th anniversary Egill Sæbjörnsson – Spirit of Place Smoked puffin with blueberry of the Culture House. and Narrative “brennivín” sauce Sheepskin, Saffian and Shirting The narrative side of Egill Sæbjörns- Exhibiting the tools and equipment son’s work comes to the fore in this Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa used in book binding. exhibition which displays works featur- Exhibition Series: ing dialogue between characters or Lobster tails baked in garlic Paintings by Hulda Viljálmsdóttir. objects that convey unfolding events Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce The Einar Jónsson Museum or time. Permanent exhibition: The work of 29 October 2009 – 3 January 2010 Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina sculptor Einar Jónsson.. D14 Ryan Parteka Gallery Ágúst In D14, Ryan Parteka intends to Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce October 24 - December 12 capture the metaphysical dimension Chocolate cake with berry compoté Photos from Iceland 1930-1945 characteristic of the German land- In this exhibition Unnar Örn has scape painter Casper David Friedrich’s and whipped cream worked with a collection of photo- (1774-1840). graphs taken by the late Sigurdur Reykjavík Art Museum Guttormsson between 1930-1945. The Kjarvalsstaðir photographs are a rare insight into September 12 - November 8 living conditions and architectural Blink history of Iceland in the years around The exhibition explores the role of 1940. visual illusion in Icelandic art from Gallerí Tukt the middle of the 1960s until today. October 31 - November 16 Included are paintings and sculptures Crude Visions by the artists Eybor Guðmundsdóttir, Exhibit featuring the works of Óskar Hreinn Friðfinnsson, Ólafur Elíasson, Bragi Stefánsson. JBK Ransu and others. The way artists Our kitchen is open Gerðuberg Cultural Centre use colors, lights and shapes in a October 17-January 3 variety of media to create a feeling of to 23:30 on weekdays Where Pleasure Lives disorientation is examined. Curated by RESTAURANT- BAR Exhibition on Halla Einarsdóttir’s life Helgi Már Kristinsson and 01:00 on weekends Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík and poetry. September 12 - November 8 October 31-January 3 Blinkworks Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Art Exhibition Blinkworks is an educational, family- Art in the life and fiction of Kristín oriented workshop in the North Gal- Marja Baldursdóttir. lery in conjunction with the exhibition October 31 - January 3 Blink. Guests are invited to try their The world of Karitas hand at enjoyable projects related to Exhibition based on the books by op-art, optical illusion, and science. Kristín Marja Baldursdóttir about the Reykjavík Maritime Museum artist Karitas. Current Exhibitions: More Iceland For Less Money Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Living Museum by the Sea; Arterial Gljúfrasteinn was the home and for Country and City; From Poverty to workplace of Halldór Laxness (winner Abundance; The Shark – Light and Life of the Nobel Prize for Literature in Energy; Hidden Craftsman. Explore the unique volcanic 1955) and his family for more than half The Reykjavík Museum of Photog- a century. It has now been opened to raphy and arctic nature of Iceland the public as a museum, unchanged September 26 - January 17 2010 GOLDEN CIRCLE DAY TOUR from when Laxness lived there. André Kertész - Ma France Living Art Museum Exhibit of André Kertész’s photographs The museum is closed for restoration of France. Daily departures: 08:30 and will open on a new location in October 22 - December 15 Duration: 8 hours. January 2010. MYICELAND Price: 8.000 ISK Exhibit featuring the results of French National Gallery of Iceland Professional Guidance. October 30 - January 3 photographer Grégory Gerault’s many Svavar Guðnason visits to Iceland. The exhibition is a retrospective of Boutique STEiNUNN the works of Svavar Guðnason, one November 5 - November 30 THE BLUE of Iceland’s most prominent painters Snow Queen through his close connection with Exhibit featuring Özden Dóra’s head- LAGOON BUS Danish abstract art between 1936 and pieces. The collection is mainly in- spired by Icelandic winter landscapes. 1946. Please book in Advance The National Museum Tónlistarsafn Íslands Permanent exhibition: November 3 - November 17 Price: 5.000 ISK The Making of a Nation Guitar Exhibition Includes Blue Lagoon Icelandic jazz, rock and blues guitars Heritage and History in Iceland is Admission intended to provide insight into the on exhibit. history of the Icelandic nation from the Settlement to the present day. January 31 - November 30. Encounters. Archaeological excavations at many locations around Iceland have been

Outside Reykjavik | Venue finder

Keflavík Stykkishólmur Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Vatnasafnið / Library of Water Sláturhúsið www.sudsudvestur.is Hafnargata 22 Akureyri Seyðisfjörður 230 Reykjanesbær Akureyri Art Museum Skaftfell 421-2225 www.listasafn.akureyri.is www.skaftfell.is Kaupvangsstræti 12 Austurvegur 42 Hafnarfjörður 600 Akureyri 710 Seyðisfjörður Hafnarborg 461 2610 472-1632 www.hafnarborg.is Strandgata 34 Populus Tremula Hveragerði 220 Hafnarfjörður poptrem.blogspot.com/ LÁ Art 585-5790 Kaupvangsstræti 12 www.listasafnarnesinga.is 600 Akureyri Austurmörk 21 Borgarnes 210 Hveragerði The Icelandic Settlement Centre Kunstraum Wohnraum 483-1727 www.landnam.is Ásabyggð 2 Brákarbraut 13-15 600 Akureyri 310 Borgarnes 437-1600 Mývatn Mývatnsstofa Call: +354 511 2600 • Mail: [email protected] • www.bustravel.is F D For your mind, body and soul

ART PICKS

– continued –

Watch Le Movie For Le Free Reykjavik Museum of Photography 15:00 November 7 & 14 Free

Trade in your pylsur for some crépes this month during Alliance Francaise´s screening of films that celebrate Paris, the city of lights. Twenty-five short films and one feature will be screened at the Reykjavík Museum of Photography, located on the fifth floor of the city library, over two consecutive Saturdays. The event kicks off with two shorts by Agnès Varda (the mastermind behind Cléo from 5 to 7) before launching into Paris je t'aime, the 2006 film composed of 18 short works crafted by 21 different directors- Crazy Love Butter -including the Coen brothers, Gérard The Hafnarfjörður Theatre - November 7 – 8 20:00 Depardieu, Wes Craven and more. One week later screenings 1500 ISK resume with two shorts from 1986 – The Hafnarfjörður Theatre is famed covered undertone which is hidden in Quai Bourbon and Au Père-Lachaise- for its innovative work. Carrying on daily situations. -and wrap up with the children's this tradition, the dance performance Steinunn and Brian are a dance classic, Le Ballon Rouge (1956). The Crazy Love Butter brings together couple well worth watching and they story of a boy and his trusty, helium- choreographers Steinunn Ketilsdóttir promise to deliver more than just filled companion is a heartening tale and Brian Gerke who have made a the performance itself – there’ll be and equally well-suited for adults. name for themselves by mixing dance partying, DJs and a whole heap of fun. Watching this boy chase his balloon and theatre in quite the clever way. LP around town is so god-damn adorable This particular performance is a trilogy it makes you stop and re-evaluate your on love, where Steinunn and Brian will drunken, good-for-nothing, put-on- perform three duets: “Crazy in Love deodorant-instead-of-bathe, don't- with Mr. Perfect,” “Love always, Debbie even-call-your-mom-on-her-birthday and Susan” and “The Butterface.” The lifestyle. What happened to us? We works are all about love in one way or used to be so cute. MZ another and there is an emotionally

Food & Drink | Venue finder

3 Frakkar D6/E6 Grái Kötturinn Jómfrúin Pisa Sushibarinn Baldursgata 14 | F9 Bæjarins Beztu Hverfisgata 16A | G7 Lækjargata 4 | E6 Lækjargötu 6b | E6 Laugavegur 2 | F7 Aktu Taktu Tryggvagata | E6 Grillhúsið Kaffi Hljómalind Pizza King Svarta Kaffi Skúlugata 15 | K8 Brons Tryggvagata 20 | E5/ Laugavegur 21 | G7 Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 Laugavegur 54 | H8 E6 Alibaba Pósthússtræti 9 | E6 Kaffitár Pizza Pronto Sægreifinn Veltusund 3b | E3 Café Cultura Habibi Bankastræti 8 | F6 Vallarstræti 4 | D6 Verbuð 8, Geirsgata Hafnarstræti 20 | D5 | D5 American Style Hverfisgata 18 | G6 Kaffivagninn Pizzaverksmiðjan Tryggvagata 26 | E5 Café Loki Hamborgarabúlla Grandagarður 10 Lækjargötu 8 | E6 Tapas Tómasar (“Bullan”) | D1 Vesturgata 3B | D5 Argentína Steak- Lokastígur 28 | G9 Prikið house Geirsgata 1 | D5 Kebabhúsið Bankastræti 12 | F6 Thorvaldsen Café Paris Austurstræti 8 | E6 Barónstígur | I8 Austurstræti 14 | E6 Hlölla Bátar Austurstræti 2 | E6 Ráðhúskaffi | D7 Ingólfstorg | D6 Austurlanda- Café Roma Kofi Tómasar Tjarnargata 11 Tíu Dropar hraðlestin Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Hornið Frænda Santa Maria Laugavegur 27 | G7 Hverfisgata 64A | H7 Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 Laugavegur 2 | F7 Domo Laugavegur 22A, | F7 Tívolí Á Næstu Grösum Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 Hótel Holt Krua Thai Segafredo Laugavegur 3 | F7 Laugavegur 20B | G7 Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Tryggvagata 14 | D5 Lækjatorg | E6 | F7 Vegamót B5 Veltusundi | E6 La Primavera Serrano Vegamótastígur 4 Bankastræti 5 | F6 Eldsmiðjan Humarshúsið Austurstræti 9 | E6 Hringbraut 12 | I3 | G7 Ammtmanstígur 1 | E7 Bakkus Bragagata 38A | G9 Lystin Við Tjörnina Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Fiskmarkaðurinn Hressó Laugavegur 73 | H7 Shalimar Templarasund 3 | E7 Austurstræti 20 | E6 Austurstræti 4 | E6 Basil & Lime Aðalstræti 12 | D6 Mokka Vitabar Klapparstíg 38 | G7 Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Skólavörðustígur 3A Silfur Bergþórugata 21 | Babalú Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Fish & Chips | F7 Pósthússtræti 11 | E6 H9 Tryggvagata 8 | E5 Skólavörðustígur 22A Garðurinn Nonnabiti Sjávarkjallarinn | G8 Klappastigur 37 | G7 Indian Mango Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Frakkastígur 12 | G6 Balthazar Glætan book café O Sushi Sólon Hafnarstræti 1-3 | Laugavegur 19 | F5 Lækjargata 2A | E6 Bankastræti 7a | F6 F D For your mind, body and soul

REVIEWS Shop And Eat: FYRIR INDIAN, HEALTHY, CAKE! AF MATSEÐLI 2MÁNUDAGA-FIMMTUDAGA 1

3 x Indian 1 Shalimar sushismiðjan A firm favourite among the Grapevine staff for years, Shalimar’s old slogan “Where hot means hot,” still bears some truth to it. RESTAURANT Austurstræti 4 BAR & TAKE AWAY 2 Austur-Indía Félagið OPIÐ TIL 22:00 Austur-Indía Félagið has been the crème de la crop of Icelandic-Indian restaurants for the past 15 years. And if Harrison Ford likes it, it must be good. Reservations recommended. Hverfisgata 56

Food For Thought 3 Austurlanda Hraðlestin celery and carrots, heavy thick stock A take away chain with brilliant Indian. Eat and drink like the locals Garðurinn and a homey, slightly yogic vibe—decide Everything on the menu is good, Tandoori Lamb and Tikka Masala downright great. for yourself if that is a good quality or at the original Icelandic Bar, the home of nostalgia Klapparstígur 37 Several locations, see www.hradlestin.is not. Hverfisgata 64a What we think: Interesting The lasagne came with a side concept, healthy food salad of good rucola and less appealing Flavour: Healthy oily, crunchy carrots. It was thick and Ambiance: Calm hearty comfort food for autumn lunches Service: Friendly and Airwaves hangovers (though I’m sure you all know what Chinmoy might have thought about those), but the flavours were slightly blunt. While I 3x Healthy Garðurinn (‘Ecstasy’s Heart Garden’) is adore Garðurinn’s eclectic idea, healthy 4 Maður lifandi Lobster Lamb Whale Puffin Wild game a small family run vegetarian restaurant, food need not mean less delicious The organic market on Borgartún has a great selection including fresh fruit and veg. There calm and serene enough to make even food—often quite the contrary. A good is also a lunch restaurant with dish and soup our conversation about movie classics example of this was pudding, a raw of the day. Anonymous Rex and Mega Shark vs. health ball (heilsukúlur) with mixed dry Borgartún 24 Giant Octopus seem spiritual. fruit rolled in sesame seeds for all its The owners spend their time organic and spelt ingredients: delicious and big enough to feed the three of us. 5 FrÚ Lauga more virtuously, practicing meditation A rare treat on the island—a farmers market - sARI PELTONEN together with the staff of the health stocking products of the season. Located shop next door and following the in Laugardalur, open Wednesdays through principles of Sri Chinmoy—a Bangladesh Saturdays. Doors are open 12-6pm, but go born meditation guru whose thoughts early—the store gets busy and the goods and obituaries are also available for go quickly. For information on new batches, Pósthússtræti 9 101 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 [email protected] lunch reading. Faithful to Chinmoy’s check them on Facebook. principles, neither meat nor alcohol is Laugalækur 6 on offer, and the TV screens a strict diet of relaxation tapes. 6 Jurtaapótek The menu is simple—a soup (650 A herbal pharmacy with a huge selection of ISK for half a portion / 900 ISK for a full all kinds of natural remedies. A great place one) and a portion of the day (900 / to pick up Icelandic herbs such as angelica, 1.450 ISK), or a shared dish-soup set for yarrow and Icelandic moss—or the topical hit- product mimír, which at 2140 ISK could help 1.500 / 2.200 ISK. to counter even the swiniest of flues. On our visit, the soup was basil Laugavegur 2 and the portion of the day lentil lasagne. I ate my two male dates under the table, trying both soup and lasagne, while they were perfectly stuffed on just the lasagne. The soup had fresh basil with 2x Cake! 7 SÚfistinn Home-made monster cakes—think meringue, chocolate and immense sugar rushes. Star of the moment is the all-Icelandic granola cake. Iða bookstore, Laekjargata.

8 Sandholt Passion cheese cake to die for, plus a good assortment of buns, rolls, chocolate and ice cream to drool over. Sandholt is a good bet for stocking up ahead of a picnic in the park. Laugavegur 36

For full restaurant and food listings and venue finder visit www.grapevine.is for detailed information.

Grapevine food review key method: When the bill arrives, the reviewer presents a written statement, previously signed by the restaurant management, 0 God-awful allowing the reviewer and one companion a Awful meal on the house for review purposes. Passable. Much room for improvement Using this approach, we aim to best Good, but not great. preserve the reviewer’s objectivity (and the Really rather good restaurants’ consistency), within the humble Extraordinary means of a free newspaper. The Grapevine does not favour foie gras over fast food. Restaurants are reviewed The food is rated in three categories: for what they are; both burger and beluga Fast food: Pizza, pylsa and kebab, food on can be extraordinary in their own right. the go (0-2000 ISK) In all evaluations, the food is key: Does it Mid-range: Everyday eateries, sit-in. (mains taste good? Is it properly prepared? Are 2000-4000 ISK) the ingredients fresh and of high quality? Fine dining: Fancy, expensive-type food. Secondary considerations include setting, (3-course dinners 6000 and up) service and value for money. To best judge the restaurant experience, All opinions expressed are the critic’s the Grapevine conducts its reviews anony- own. SP mously. The sole exception is the payment The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 12

The History of Icelandic Rock music | Part 13 The spontaneous brilliance of Stuðmenn

while Jakob went to London with his pals finally came true. Originally, the idea had in the heavy rock group Rifsberja. The been to make a film based on either of idea was to check out all the possibili- their first two albums, but when it was ties the big city had to offer. Alas, noth- finally made, the storyline and dialogue ing came out of Rifsberja’s London trip was mostly improvised on the spot. “We except poverty and near-hunger. Jakob try to stay true to the modus operandi The same core players are involved in got a gig, though, playing with old blues that worked well for us making music, to three of the best Icelandic bands from the dog Long John Baldry, while the rest of let the moment take over, to be spontane- seventies, Stuðmenn, Spilverk þjóðanna the group had to leave when their visas ous. We do not rehearse a lot, and we try Shawerma and Þursaflokkurinn. All are veritable in- expired. to get the Stuðmenn humour and mirth stitutions of Icelandic rock history. In the Fast forward to 1974. For some rea- on film,” said Valgeir at the time of filming. Shish Kebab newest ‘Best Icelandic albums list,’ pub- son, a label named ÁÁ records saw That’s exactly what happened. The Falafel lished in 2009, those three bands have a commercial potential in Stuðmenn and film, Með allt á hreinu (aka ‘On Top’), ordered two singles from the group. Thus was premiered to glowing reviews right Humus total of thirteen albums on the top 100. While Spilverk þjóðanna (‘Plaything of Valgeir met Jakob in London to record before Christmas in 1982. When the film Baklawa the Nations’) and Þursaflokkurinn (‘The four songs with Cliff Richard’s rhythm finally left theatres, almost half the nation, Band of Titans’) are kind of serious, Stuð- section on hire in the studio. The singles 115.000 people, had seen it. Long since menn (‘Funmen’) are anything but. did OK in Iceland, and thus Stuðmenn a classic and one of the most loved Ice- -EVERY BITE IS A REAL TASTE Like many good bands, Stuðmenn were on the agenda again. Next up was a landic films, Með allt á hreinu follows the were conceived as a joke. In locally infa- whole album recorded in London in early antics of Stuðmenn whilst on tour in Ice- PARTYSERVICE spring 1975. Valgeir’s Spilverk friends land, and the band’s on-going feud with I bring the grill to you! mous artsy college MH, guitarist/singer Valgeir Guðjónsson and keyboardist came along, and Icelandic musicians liv- real life girl group, Grýlurnar (appearing Jakob Frímann Magnússon, along with ing in London at the time (and playing as ‘Gærurnar’ in the film). two friends, decided to form the corniest with Change, an Icelandic band trying to Fired up with this wondrous suc- band they could imagine. The year was break through) put in their share. Famous cess Stuðmenn went into overdrive—and 1970, and their sole objective was to en- musicians like Chris Speeding and Bill somehow the band is still running on that tel: 445 4445 Bruford dropped by as well. The resulting tank. Stuðmenn have long since hit pay Veltusund 3b, v.Ingólfstorg tertain their classmates at an upcoming dance. In the age of long hair, astrology LP, Sumar á Sýrlandi (‘Summer in Syria’), dirt with various monster hits and played and 20 minute guitar solos, Stuðmenn became an instant classic when it was re- gigantic concerts for large portions of the was the corniest band name they could leased in Iceland in the summer of 1975. nation. The band has also had various think of. The band dressed accordingly “For the first time,” reviewers would flops on their hands, including two poorly in old black suits and skinny ties, slick- say, “a truly original Icelandic pop tone received sequels to the Með allt á hreinu. ing their hair back with brilliantine. This has been found.” The album contains Tellingly, the youthful magic of the band’s was some years before American Graffiti, songs that have lived with the nation ever earliest work has never been matched. In so looking like it was 1959 was a spunky since, and the lyrics are funny in a clever their most tiresome moments, the group move. and tongue-in-cheek kind of way. The has been accused of severely flogging a Their fellow students got the joke and band played wearing masks, as it initially dead horse. the first gig was a hit. The Stuðmenn joke presented itself as a secret group (like Jakob is the only original member of lingered on, but the members wanted to KISS). All the members were unknown, Stuðmenn – “Every Icelander’s group,” do more contemporary music. Valgeir though, so nobody thought much of it as the band is fondly nicknamed. Stuð- formed the folk group Spilverk þjóðanna when the masks eventually came off. menn’s last moderate hit came recently, with Sigurður Bjóla and Egill Ólafsson Stuðmenn followed suit in 1976 with when they went for milking the Icesave- (later to be the front man of Stuðmenn), a nostalgic concept album about an debate with a song called... “Icesave”. amusement park that had been a Reykja- Next up: Spilverk þjóðanna and Þur- 1. Stuðmenn promote Tívolí in 1976 vík attraction in the fifties. The band pro- saflokkurinn. - Dr. Gunni 3. Stuðmenn’s core members Val- moted the album with an outdoor gig in geir, Egill and Jakob in 1984, promot- the centre of Reykjavík. During the con- By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki ing their second movie, Hvítir mávar cert’s climax, an aeroplane flew over and allir í stuði? (Rock in Iceland). A revised update (aka ‘Cool Jazz and Coconuts’). showered caramels over the crowd. The of the book is forthcoming in 2010. 4. Stuðmenn in 2005: During Tívoli album was considered another pop the heights of the “good years” masterpiece and sold well. However, the (“góðæri”), Stuðmenn performed members weren’t interested in making at the Royal Albert Hall in London. further Stuðmenn albums. The Spilverk Tel +354 577 60 50 The place was full of Icelanders— þjóðanna people were to make few mas- no doubt getting ready to take over terpieces in the years to come and Jakob www.sixt.is the British Empire—and a Queen Frímann concentrated on his solo career, Elizabeth look-alike was brought on playing fusion influenced synth pop. stage for fun. The third and last Stuðmenn mas- 5. The Sumar á Sýrlandi and Tívolí terpiece happened in 1982, when an old albums dream of the members, of making a film,

Nicelanders | Elo Vázquez and Óttar Norðfjörð The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17­ — 2009 13

Music | Album Reviews

GusGus Worm is Green Ben Frost 24/7 (2009) Glow (2009) By The Throat (2009) gusgus wormisgreen theghostofbenfrost Saying that the GusGus party An album that’s moody, dark and On By The Throat, artwork and has come to an end would be loves to stay there... music unfolds like a Scandinavian premature and unfair, but this is thriller. still their weakest record to date. One of the interesting things about Arkranes (apart from the road out On Ben Frost's new album, artwork The core members of GusGus have of it) is the variety of music that is and music unfolds like a Scandinavian ruled the Icelandic club scene for an coming from there. Such as Worm is thriller. Headlights claw their way into obscenely long time (15 years?). And Green with their new album, Glow. the nothingness, ambient werewolves the miraculous thing is that they've Their downtempo electronic sound slice through shadows and echo the by the sea stayed that course without altering is reminiscent of Massive Attack nervous swells of secret instruments their sound nor updating their image and groups such as The Knife and bark by guttural bark. Blood-soaked and a delicios lobster in any significant way. The sound that Fever Ray. Whereas other Icelandic snowbanks feed crystallized plasma at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri started out cutting-edge, became de- electro bands like Bloodgroup and into porous ice. pendable and finally retro devil-may- FM Belfast aim to lift the spirit and Ben's music has always been care with their 2002 parasol-pink drug- get you moving, Glow feels more like cinematic but lately he’s been pop-meisterwerk Attention, managing the flipside of a weekend comedown ploughing into it with a mad fever. to sidestep the purgatory of obligatory in an abandoned farm on a snowy Between composing for miniseries embarrassing obsolescence. January morning. Their opening and Australian thrillers, it seems he But with their recent move to Kom- track “Hopeful,” for example, has an may be slipping away from us. It’s a pakt it seems they felt the need to oppressive baseline that is lifted by pity, since he’s one of the most visual impress their po-faced brethren with the lilting vocals of singer Guðridur (and visceral) musicians working out Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir lacklustre results. I applaud them try- Ringsted. The rest of the album of Iceland these days. If nature is a ing out new things; the male catalogue contains a mix of soft pianos, deep playground to Sigur Rós, then to Ben model image is spot on, and on-and- synths, minimal clicky percussion and it’s a battlefield. His Iceland is the off member Daníel Ágúst is still is a whispered vocals. However there isn’t kind of arid plane where religion is masterful singer. But the ratio of play- a lot of variety in the tracks and the born—desperate chants to smother an ful to stern is off, and they come off as album does feel to be stuck on the unforgiving climate. distant. Where are the grooves? Even same tempo and minor key throughout. His music doesn't pulsate or tick—it Add This Song takes off as a rohypnol That’s not to say that it’s bad but flows and merges. It’s the sound of rager but peters out into the krautrock sometimes it wouldn’t hurt to let the clenching and unclenching, of tension swamps that seem to claim most musi- sunshine in and expand their sound. and release. Sounds are fed, sustained cians eventually. - BOB CLUNESS and brought to slaughter. - RAGNAR 24/7 is a hit-and-miss attempt at EGILSSON following the experimental sideroads of their first album and finding that they double back to a giant neon sign point- ing at Nasa, saying "GusGus – stop fid- dling and get back to dominating!” - RAGNAR EGILSSON Reykjavík Downtown Hostel

Professional, friendly Caterpillarmen and passionate. Adopt a Monkey (2009) Stereo Hypnosis Hypnogogia (2009) Available via www.Gogoyoko.com We’ll be here, to arrange the stereohypnosis most exciting excursions at Iceland in Psychedelic Monkey Trafficking Shock Horror! Best enjoyed whilst lying on the the best price, and offer you Lady and Bird floor, staring at the ceiling. local advice on how to get La Ballade of Lady and There are some truly evil people the most from your stay in out there. You had a man Like Josef Father-son duo Stereo Hypnosis was Bird (2009) Fritzl who kept his daughter and formed in 2006 by Jafet Melge (Óskar this wonderful city. ladyandbirdband their children hidden from the world Thorarensen) and Beatmakin' Troopa in a basement for eighteen years. (Pan Thorarensen). The pair are Intimate songs with a rich, big And there is apparently a monster in based in the remote island of Flatey sound on top. Reykjavík right now who kidnapped 4 in Breiðafjörður, where they mix and young men from birth, kept them in a record their music. This latest offering Lady and Bird is the collaborative basement and only gave them access of theirs offers an almost abstract project of singer-songwriter Keren to early Pink Floyd, King Crimson and experience. Ann Zeidel and Barði Jóhannsson of Can records. The bastard must be Ambient, at times bordering on Bang Gang. Their latest album is taken stopped! But as for his “victims,” they dark, there is an elusive quality to from a live concert they performed became Caterpillarmen and they´ve the music that makes it difficult with the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra created their debut EP. to pin down. It is nonetheless an in 2008, and contains both original To say it reeks of late 60s/early interesting album, progressing slowly compositions and reworked tracks 70s prog rock would be a massive but surely across the flat plains of form Bang Gang’s latest album, understatement. With sprawling some enigmatic other world. The Ghosts From The Past. The result is Hammond organs, spidery guitar outfit's name, Stereo Hypnosis, is a mix of lush, textured pop songs lines and a thumping bass, it creates very apt, as although their music that gain an extra dimension from a weirdly British picture of old BBC is down tempo, there is something having the weight of a full orchestra children’s programmes, occult mysteriously compelling about it, behind them. Old tracks such as One Aristocracy and psychedelic tea. which keeps it engrossing. It could More Trip sound like adult fairytales That’s not to say it´s perfect. Some of be the combination of slow, rhythmic with a large streak of melancholy, the songs have some jarring changes beats with a measured progression of while the opening track Malmo Lives in pace and tone. Now The Man carefully woven samples and loops, or wouldn’t sound out of place in a Pedro Can Can Can’t Not Cat should have the way that one track slides almost Almodovar thriller. There are one or been split into two songs. And the 12 seamlessly into the next. If you want two flat moments though. Sailor and minute opus of Idle Hands/Monkey something very earthy and down- Widow, for example, has a Beatles style See, Monkey Do doesn’t really sound tempo to listen to, give it a go. “oompah” chorus that makes me fast OPUS enough to grab me. But wait ‘til - Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir forward to the next track. these guys discover 70s Krautrock and Overall, however, this is a great Komische. They´re going to blow our Reykjavík Downtown Hostel album for losing yourself on a winter’s fucking heads off! - BOB CLUNESS Your dream location in downtown Reykjavík night. Possibly naked with chocolate smeared over yourself, although that’s Vesturgata 17 ❚ 101 Reykjavík ❚ Tel. +354 553 8120 optional... - BOB CLUNESS [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 By now, we're pretty sure the inspiration for The Terminator, Rambo I-IV, John McClane and popular TV show Yes, Prime Minister came 18 from Iceland, too.

Article | Espionage Shopping | Rebecca Louder Iceland’s Greatest Spy: The Real James Bond Fresh Stock The new crop of shops in 101

Say, have y’all noticed how many new garnered international attention with stores have sprouted from the soil over his wild designs and effortless, high the last few months? Who woulda thunk street-fashion. After a year of planning, we would get such a great retail harvest he opened his own flagship outlet last during this economic drought! Shucks. month on Laugavegur. Located above There are all sorts of cool stores opening another new store, women’s footwear up on the main drag, selling everything shop Manía, Mundi sells versatile, unisex from clothing to books, music, footwear clothing geared for colourful people who and god-knows-what. I reckon you should like to have fun with their wardrobe, as go out there and take a gander at all the well as two other local brands. goods. Here are a few of the juiciest picks.

Nikita Eymundsson Laugavegur 56 Skólavörðustígur 11 This purely Icelandic line of women’s Raised from the ashes of a true Kreppa streetwear was started by designer Heiða Kasualty, the new Eymundsson shop on Birgisdóttir in 2000 and rapidly took off Skólavörðustígur opened up in August to now being sold in about 1.500 stores in in the remnants of the old SPRON bank. thirty countries. The line has been sold Unlike its monolithic sister-store on Aus- in various shops in Reykjavík but they turstræti, the new shop is one cosy level have finally opened up their first flag- with couches and tables in two corners of ship store, right on Laugavegur. It opened the place and an adorable patio outside. with a huge bang in late September, host- The whole place feels much more like a ing the GusGus album release show in library than a bookshop. Plus, they’ve got their backyard skate park. Full of quirky, the old Mál and Menning staff, sell cof- classy and comfortable gear, their designs fee, have free wireless and are open until could be worn as easily at a club as on the 10pm. That totally kicks the library’s ass! slopes. A lot of it is pretty gender neutral too. Look for the bright pink shop.

You’ve seen him in the movies. Most Stephenson left to Canada in the twenties think they could have spared a bullet for famously, he has been played by Sean and next appeared in London. There, the father of advertising). Dahl later Connery, Roger Moore and lately Daniel he patented a technique to transmit wrote a history of the British Security Craig. There he appears as Bond, James photographs through the wireless. He Coordination, which was first published Bond. He appears under his own name became filthy rich, setting up companies only ten years ago. Lucky Records in A Man Called Intrepid, played by such as General Radio, General Aircraft, Hverfisgata 82 Havarí David Niven. He also appears in the Sound City Film (which make more than Founding the CIA After running his own vinyl booth at the Austurstræti 6 Ian Fleming biopic Goldeneye (not to half of all British movies in the period), At the outbreak of war, the US Army Kolaportið flea market, Ingvar Geirsson Opened by Svavar Pétur Eysteinsson and be confused with the Bond film of the Shepperton studios, Earls court cinemas, and Navy had their own intelligence decided it was high time to open up a real Berglind Häsler of the band Skakkaman- same title). There, William Stephenson is and Prest Steel, which manufactured cars services, and the FBI specialised in vinyl store in Reykjavík. Located on Hver- age, this new fair-play music shop is a portrayed as the real M to Ian Fleming’s such as Jaguar. internal intelligence. However, the US fisgata (adjacent to Laugavegur), this new collaborative effort between four impor- James Bond. There is much to suggest, was lacking a unified organisation to spy shop houses a collection of 20.000 used tant entities in Icelandic indie: Kimi Re- however, that Stephenson is not only the Fooling Roosevelt abroad. Stephenson helped set up the LPs, 8.000 twelve-inch records, as well as cords, Kimi co-label (or whatever) Borgin, model for M, but also for Bond himself. Through the course of his activities he Organisation of Secret Services, OSS, an extensive collection of new and used gogoyoko.com and Skakkapop. They have Fleming’s own career as a WW2 spy befriended Winston Churchill, then which later became the CIA. “Wild” Bill CDs and DVDs. The man also buys mu- set up a cohesive space in which they can is somewhat less than glorious. The a Member of Parliament, who was Donovan, the founder of the CIA, later sic and movie collections, large and small, pool their efforts and support each oth- inspiration for the first Bond novel, almost a lone voice in warning against said that he learned all there was to know so go get rid of all those old Limp Bizkit ers’ endeavours. The store opened up in Casino Royale, came from when Fleming the German arms build-up. On his from Stephenson. Bill Donovan (renamed and Staind albums once and for all. Best mid-September, right before the Réttir was stationed in Spain in World War II. frequent travels to Germany as a steel Bill Sullivan) is played by Robert De Niro of all, the store has the extremely humane festival, for which it served as ticketing He decided to trick Nazi spies into losing manufacturer, he witnessed the build- in the 2006 film The Good Shepherd. opening hours of 11am to 9pm. Party on. headquarters and a daytime off-venue a large amount of money in a poker game. up first hand and became alarmed. After After the war, Stephenson retired location. In addition to CDs and records, Fleming, however, lost the game, and had the outbreak of war Stephenson moved to Jamaica. His neighbour there was one can purchase band T-shirts and art to live with the German agents being to a to New York, where he became head of none other than Ian Fleming, who made by local musicians. Expect lots large extent bankrolled by His Majesty’s the British Security Coordination in the bought a house he called “Goldeneye” of in-store appearances and stuff until government through him. In the book, of Western Hemisphere. His main task for the purpose of writing spy novels in. Christmas. course, Bond later wins the game. was to mobilise the US government Stephenson and Fleming undoubtedly and population for intervention. One of shared many a drink, Stephenson’s Fighter planes and can his major coups is to present Roosevelt favourite being a dry martini, shaken, not openers with a document showing German stirred. Fleming later remarked: “James Stephenson’s war record is more plans to take over South America. This Bond is a romanticized version of a true impressive. He first entered service in convinced Roosevelt, on Stephenson’s spy. The real thing is Bill Stephenson.” Mundi World War I as an infantryman in the recommendation, to move US troops to There are many stories about William Laugavegur 12 Canadian Army. His service number was Iceland. The document was later proven Stephenson. These often contradict one Always on the cutting edge of Reykjavík’s 007. He later moved on to the Royal Air to be a forgery. As Stephenson would later another and Stephenson, the master style scene, young designer Mundi has Force, shooting down 12 enemy fighters say: “Nothing deceives like a document.” of disinformation, is not the most (18 by his own account). A statue of him Stephenson played a part in securing reliable source. One aspect he repeatedly as an Ace stands outside City Hall in the lend-lease aid for the British, and downplayed was his Icelandic origin, Comic | Hugleikur Dagsson Winnipeg. However, his impact in World along with the Americans set up the probably because this did not go too well War II was to be far greater. training facilities Camp X in Southern with his new status as a member of the William Stephenson was born in 1897 Ontario. It was here that saboteurs were British upper classes. Many books have (1896, by his own account) in Winnipeg to trained to destroy German attempts to been written about him, both before Sara Guðfinna Johnston, an Iceland-born make a nuclear bomb in Norway, and and after his death in 1989 (a date not Canadian, and William Hunter Stanger, to assassinate Heydrich, one of the contradicted by himself, for once), who hails from the Orkney Islands. His architects of the Holocaust, in Prague. including The Quiet Canadian from father died when William was four years He is even credited with having a hand in 1963, Wild Bill and Intrepid from 1996 old (as a soldier in the Boer War, by his breaking the German enigma code. and The True Intrepid from 1998. One account), and the child was adopted by Hans Kristján Árnason, who is version of his story, the documentary The West Icelanders Vigfús and Kristín. currently making a documentary on True Intrepid, will be released on DVD in During the final months of World Stephenson, calls Camp X “the world’s early November in Iceland. The package War I, Stephenson was shot down and first terrorist training camp.” One story will also include the radio broadcast “The captured by the Germans. He escaped has it that Ian Fleming trained at the West-Icelander William Stephenson: from captivity with a can opener stolen camp. In any case, Fleming worked with Hero or Villain?” from 2001, by historian from his captors. After the war, the Stephenson in World War II, as did writer Vigfús Geirdal. good man patented the can opener. The Roald Dahl and one of the fathers of business he sets up around the patent at modern advertising, David Ogilvie (with the end of the war proved to be a failure, so all the people killed in World War II, you’d VALUR GUNNARSSON gogoyoko presents: Grapevine Fresh colours Grassroots & design Awesome young talent and upcoming artists - check Grapevine.is for info!

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Travel | Sólheimajökull

crevasses while wondering when the though—it just might take a while. In next volcanic eruption will take place. 1952, an American airplane with five Under Mýrdalsjökull lies Katla, an crewmembers onboard crashed down active volcano. She has been showing on Eyjafjallajökull. One body was signs of unrest recently, and geolo- found at the scene of the accident. The gists have voiced concerns that it could glacier brought in the remaining bod- erupt anytime in the near future. ies over ten years later. Pieces of the Brilliant Hike On The Rocks The most active volcano in Iceland, aircraft have been appearing gradually Hekla, also stands nearby. It has erupt- since then. “For how many gin and tonics you Nobody agrees with the sentiment. what he is doing. ed over 20 times since 874. Scientists Even though over ten percent of could get ice from this glacier?” asks We are standing in front of Sólhei- Okay, up we go… walking like a say she is preparing herself for yet an- Iceland is covered by ice, it should one co-traveller as our group of hikers majökull, an outlet glacier of Mýrdal- duck. other eruption. not be taken for granted that the gla- makes its way towards Sólheimajökull, sjökull, the fourth biggest glacier in Just after we have taken our first 50 Along the way we see layers of ash ciers will stay there forever. Due to the an outlet glacier in Southern Iceland. Iceland. When I spot the boxes full of steps or so we bump into a bunch of that past eruptions of the nearby volca- changes in climate and rise in tem- “Uhm… that’s a tough one,” pon- ice axes and crampons, I begin to won- tourists trying to explore the glacier— noes have left behind. The colour spec- peratures, glaciers begin to diminish. ders our glacier guide for the day, der whether we are going to march with sneakers on! Their feet are slip- trum changes from white to clear blue Currently, the average receding rate of Björgvin Hilmarsson from Icelandic across the entire glacier ice cap instead ping on the icy surface rather worry- and black, with the ash creating strong Sólheimajökull is around 100 meters a Mountain Guides. of setting off on a nice, relaxing three- ingly. The grandpa of the group looks contrasts. year. “I guess it’s possible to calculate hour hike. like he is about to trip and fall in a mat- “I know the glaciers in some other “Now is the time to go to a glacier, an approximate value. On the aver- First we try on the crampons and ter of seconds. There is a small hole in countries are whiter than here in Ice- while they still exist.” age, Sólheimajökull is 270 metres are given a short lesson on how to walk the ice close by... I decide not to look. land. But I’m proud of my colourful Safe and easy nine-hour 'Take a thick. It is about eight kilometres long, on the ice. Calmly our guide advises them to step glaciers, and having the volcanic ash Walk on the Ice Side' trip was provided and over a kilometre wide at its wid- “Walk with your legs wider apart down slowly. Without crampons and all around makes them special,” our by Icelandic Mountain Guides and est point. And one cubic meter of ice than normally—as if you had been ice axes, situations can get out of hand guide states. Reykjavík Excursions. Tour includes should do for quite a lot of G&Ts.” horseback riding for a week. Lean pretty quickly. Then, all of a sudden, we hear a bus guide and experienced glacier I am on cloud nine: there is no backwards with your feet pointing The breathtaking glaciers can be strong, thunder-like sound. A new guide services, pick-ups from Reyk- wind, no rain. It was raining in Reyk- straight ahead when walking down- fatal if you attempt to go there on your crevasse just formed somewhere. Gla- javík hotels at 8:30am, and stops in javík from where we embarked on our wards. When walking uphill, spread own without proper equipment and a ciers are constantly changing. They Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss water- journey three hours ago. It also rained your legs and walk like a duck. A duck guide. On the way up we take a block are expanding and melting. Water- falls, 19.900 ISK. Glacier hike, without in Hveragerði, Selfoss looked grey and that has been horseback riding for a of ice and drop it into one of the cracks holes and pipe-like passages form a transport, is 9.500 ISK. Minimum age: gloomy as always. But as soon as we week,” our guide explains. in the ice, and it takes a while until we sort of plumbing system inside the 10 years. had driven past Seljalandsfoss and More rules follow. The guide al- hear it hit the bottom. Deep holes in glacier, from where the melted water Wear warm clothes and good Skógafoss, a miracle happened. The ways goes first. If he disappears, do the ice, so called cold-runs, and cre- pools on the surface and ends up as a shoes. Besides crampons and ice axes, skies cleared. not attempt to trace him. If you drop vasses dozens of metres deep are sim- glacial river. Constantly flowing water guides have extra shoes, gloves and “I’m sorry for all this sunshine… your ice axe and you see it gliding ply not good places to fall into. is forming new ice sculptures daily. waterproof trousers you can borrow. Especially you guys from Australia, away, do not go after it. Yet somehow, the feeling of danger Like life, glaciers never stay the same. I’m sure you are pretty bored with all “It’s easier for me to go down a is fascinating. I am a two-hour drive Because of the constant changing, a the sun and would rather like to expe- crevasse to pick up an axe than to go from Reykjavík, walking on a glacier lost ice axe or even an airplane can dis- rience some strong winds and pouring picking up an axe and you,” Björgvin amidst a wonderland of ice sculptures, appear into the glacier for decades. A Satu Rämö rain,” says our guide, grinning. explains, laughing. He seems to know discovering hidden openings and deep glacier usually gives back what it takes, JULIA STAPLES

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Travel | Viðey Travel | Waterfalls Tres Foss Dettifoss v. Gullfoss v. Goðafoss: which foss reigns supreme?

This country sure has a lot of water: trapped in glaciers, flowing from gla- ciers, trickling down mountainsides, raging through canyons. And all that water sure is something nice to look at. But what watery spectacle is the nicest to look at? The most magnifi- cent? Which foss is the mother of all fosses*? Yoko’s Tower of Power How peaceful is a column of light?

I like Yoko Ono. In fact, I like Yoko peaceful, for lack of a better word. Ono far more than I’ve ever liked John Back at Magnússon's pad, we write Lennon. I once worked in a museum peace wishes on little cards meant to and watched Ono’s “Cut Piece” almost be buried under the tower, drink hot every day. I appreciated the way she felt chocolate and listen as our tour guide it necessary to include the audience in weaves history and humour, extract- her work and wondered at the small ing laughter with rehashed zingers. but revealing results of that dialogue. Back to the boat and back to town be- 1. Dettifoss Iceland would adopt Christianity and I was thus looking forward to see- fore 23:00—all in all, a peaceful, pleas- Without a doubt, Dettifoss is one im- promptly threw all his Norse idols into ing the Imagine Peace Tower. A five- ant and painless tour. pressive foss. The thing is huge, at the waterfall on his land. You know, minute boat ride later, I stepped off In Reykjavík, however, things are 100 metres wide and 44 metres high, that’s probably why this foss’ name the pier and onto Viðey Island. It’s a a bit more complicated. I live down- carving out the gorgeous Jökulsárgljú- translates as “waterfall of the gods.” rugged crop of land, but handsome town, where I can see the Imagine fur canyon with its powerful surge of Another major selling feature of this too, featuring two 18th century struc- Peace Tower every time I go out for a water. In fact, Dettifoss is the wateri- foss is that despite being fairly close to tures: one of the oldest churches in beer. It’s always there, burning bright est foss in all of Europe, spewing 200 Mývatn and Dettifoss, Goðafoss is not Iceland and the stately residence of between houses and trees. It frustrates cubic metres per second of the wet congested with all you tourists, so it Treasurer Skúli Magnússon, which is me: unlike her other work, Ono’s stuff. While unrelated to the foss, this can be appreciated in peace. used these days for weddings, banquet Imagine Peace Tower doesn’t need well-visited tourist attraction not far celebrations and the communal eating my participation, it’s a blinding mono- from Mývatn is made all the more en- 3. Gullfoss beautiful foss. It may not have made as of sheep heads. The guided tour by- logue I can’t silence. joyable by the hilarious signage above The most visited foss in Iceland, Gull- massive a dent in the earth and it may passed all this at first, opting instead A few days ago I stepped outside the restroom sinks warning of a water foss is just a hop and a skip from Reyk- not be accompanied by some seriously for the Imagine Peace Tower. my house for a smoke and saw what shortage in the area, despite there be- javík and is one of three attractions tasty meat soup, but Goðafoss is so Despite resembling a death laser, every foreigner dreams of seeing in ing a raging waterfall right there. How of the famed Golden Circle—in fact, spectacular it could bring a tear to the there is something calming about the Iceland: the glowing ribbons of the delightfully ironic. Gullfoss translates to “golden falls.” eye of even the most cold-hearted tour- Imagine Peace Tower from up close. northern lights. Seeing them in Reyk- From a distance this mid-size foss ap- ist traveller there. Apologies to the los- Six powerful beams shoot through javík is rare, and seeing them this 2. Goðafoss pears to not be a foss at all, instead the ing fosses and to the fosses that didn’t the ground, bounce off 45-degree mir- bright is rarer still. I grabbed my coat While it is a relatively small foss, Hvítá river seems to just vanish. But even make the list, you’re all very nice rors, join nine more lights, and launch and ran to the shore, the darkest place Goðafoss makes up for what it lacks in upon closer inspection tourists—and too. into the sky forming a brilliant white I could think of. Sitting on the break- size in pure natural beauty. Here the there are always a lot of those—notice column. The base structure, known ers with the city at my back, the north- Skjálfandafljót river tumbles 12 me- that this multi-level foss is just ob- *Foss means waterfall and fosses is not as the ‘Wishing Well’ is panelled by ern lights were brighter and faster tres over the horseshoe-shaped ridge, scured by the curved canyon that it has the actual plural of foss. But it sounds opaque glass with the words ‘Imagine than I’d expected. But I couldn’t help with one main powerful chute and a carved out over the centuries. Another fun. Peace’ etched in 24 languages. Born thinking that without a gigantic beam gentler trickle reaching around to the high point of this foss is the ample and out of a conceptual artwork known of light shooting aimlessly at the sky, right of it, where the river is shallow delicious lamb soup available for con- as the ´Light House, ´ I wonder if the they would’ve been brighter and fast- and dotted with mossy rocks peak- sumption on site. Gullfoss and meat tower wasn’t an intergalactic weapon er still—that sometimes, Reykjavík ing up through its surface. Goðafoss soup is a recipe for good times. after all, but a beacon of hope. At the might be a more peaceful place with- is also special for its role in Iceland’s So which foss is the best foss? It’s instruction of the guide, the tour- out the Peace Tower. history—after spending some time a tough decision and all fosses have ists joined hands in a human chain their pros and cons, but this round wrapped in fur and deep in thought, Catharine Fulton around the Wishing Well and respect- Michael Zelenko Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði decided that goes to Goðafoss. Goddamn, that’s one Catharine Fulton ed a minute of silence. It was all very...

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www.airiceland.is VESTMANNAEYJAR [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 ContactContact AirAir IcelandIceland oror travel agentagent for for reservation. reservation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 Even though they're no journalists, we think these artists did a pretty good job of interview- ing one another. Perhaps they'll invite us to make some art for them in the future? 18

Art | Interview Music | Aðalsteinn Jörundsson also a bunch of stuff that I’m upload- works on display there, it was a little ing to gogoyoko.com. It’s so easy to put bit like sharing a conversation with Ás- stuff up there. Soon, you can find a mundur. I'm No few of the homemade records that I’ve been releasing in fifty copies, some And your forthcoming show at Haf- rarities and also my first record, The narborg? Expert #1 International Rock ‘n’ Roll Summer of The show is divided in two. In the first Egill Sæbjörnsson hall, I am working with prints of my The Gerðuberg paintings, or a specific pattern that ap- What is Donald Judd doing in your peared in one of my works. The inner Matinée Series new exhibition? hall features little clusters of paintings In one of the works in the exhibition that are unusually shaped. We’ll see if Apparently there are no mandatory I’ve put up a “fake show” with red that works. rock show-like delays at a classical walls and all sorts of items and arte- In the paintings, I am trying out lunch hour concert, so luckily I arrived facts. It is meant to look like a typical new things, even though the methods just in time. Pianist and curator Nína museum display. Two walls in the hall may look familiar to some. The idea Margrét Grímsdóttir took the stage, then start talking about the items on is to simplify the works, so that the welcomed the audience and explained display. They are thus like props on a spectator may clearly discern the first the day's concept: a non-verbal poetry stage. The Donald Judd sculpture is stroke, so the idea is transparent. I am or instrumental song music. This, she one of the items they talk about. It also also publishing a book of my works said, was a popular style in the 19th has, for instance, a poster of the Harry that’s called Ofhlæði/Overload and century, where locating an unsung Potter film, a doll of “The Internet will be out on the Ok bæ(!)kur imprint. melody is required of the listener. A Kid” and a videocassette of The Matrix good concept, a kind of musical audi- film, a framed spider, a quartz spear Do you have a studio for painting? Do ence participation. In Grímsdóttir's from the stone age, a cornet, etc. you think it’s important to have one? delivery of Mendelssohn's Liede ohne Yes, I’ve got a really nice studio. It’s Worte, op. 19 no 1, though, I experi- After all the wandering, is there any- downtown and serves me really well. enced trouble placing the melody, but thing you miss about Reykjavík? It’s totally imperative for my creation the song itself was pleasantly played, I have to say, I think Reykjavík is an to have a workshop. I’ve got so many short and delightful. Maybe I just incredibly beautiful city. During the materials; paint, wood, my books and didn't connect with the piece. Maybe economic boom years, a lot of the music. It’s like a home away from it is best unsung, anyway. houses downtown were worked on home. Or as I called it when I lived Margrét Árnadóttir then joined and remodelled, now the houses in there: STUDIOHOUSEAPPARTMENT. with her cello and together they played Þingholt remind me more and more Beethoven's variation in E flat major of Kardimommubærinn. For a per- When will Iceland’s economy start re- on Mozart's Bei mannern, WoO 46, son that’s raised in Paris, where the covering? Why? or, in layman's terms: Mozart's Magic average building is seven stories high, It will, if we take up different values Flute – Beethoven Remix. Really nice, and most of the houses were built 120 and attitudes. It became evident that actually. This is a song originally writ- years ago, it’s like visiting a magic city. endless greed did not work out. We ten with lyrics, since it is a part of the I’ve lived abroad for almost fifteen have one of the best social welfare famous opera, and I could definitely years, eleven of them in Berlin, and systems in the world, so we shouldn’t hear the poetry coming from the have started viewing Reykjavík in a complain, just keep our calm and we’ll Cello. Árnadóttir did it justice, play- completely different light. sail through this. ing both passionately and technically That doesn’t mean that all is for- proficient. Nína, however, felt stiff and Artist Vs. Artist Are you in good spirits? given, I want to see some people pun- possibly under-rehearsed. Not that she Egill Sæbjörnsson meets Davíð Örn Halldórsson I think being in good spirits is a fun- ished for their actions. And the arro- made any obvious mistakes, but I felt damental thing. When so much is gance of some of the politicians that her delivery was not as confident as Egill Sæbjörnsson and Davíð Örn one apartment, then it would move to happening, as is the case now, you are got us here is embarrassing. This time Margrét's. Halldórsson are both prominent another one on Tuesdays. You had no in really good spirits. Not a question. around, Icelanders should not forget I may not be a Mendelssohn fan young artists that have been raising money, resided in coal heated apart- so easily. That’s what seems to plague and given Margrét's and Nína's deliv- eyebrows all over for a while now. With ments and if you went out to eat it was Egill Sæbjörnsson’s exhibit, Spirit of us, we’re always so quick to fucking ery of Romance Sans Paroles, op. 109 good reason, too, as their art is, in all for a döner that set you back around Place and Narrative, is on display at the forget. neither are they, but since the title honesty, pretty damn good. Lucky for 150 krónur. They’ll make that movie Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús un- actually translates as 'A Song without us denizens of Reykjavík, then, that eventually. til January 3 2010. What kind of music do you listen to? Words' they probably felt it should be both artists are displaying their works I’ve also envisioned a sci-fi flick In music, I am a total novelty whore, on the program. in the area this month. To celebrate set in Reykjavík and would be around Egill asks Davíð... that is, I like to follow what’s going on The headlining number, the occasion, we got them to do brief the band The End and their theories and take in new things constantly. So I Beethoven's Sonata in A-major, op. QnA sessions with one another. on the end of the world. It was to be What are you showing now in Ásmun- try and read up on what’s going on and 69 is a good piece. I've been listen- based on the lives of Dóri and Maggi darsafn? What is the works’ state of buy a lot of music, I don’t really know ing to it on Grooveshark for a couple Davíð asks Egill... from the band and their music, they mind? how to download. I have a big record of weeks, and Grímsdóttir and Árna- are great musicians. It’s a co-exhibit where several Icelan- collection that is very important to dóttir worked it well. Obviously this If you had the opportunity to write and Dóri had a lot of theories on the end dic artists display works based on the me, I always listen to my music when one had been rehearsed the most, but direct a full-length feature film, what of the world, and he wrote a book about works of Ásmundur Sveinsson and I work and I am certain that it is a big I feel I would have gotten better into sort of film would you make? it. He also thought he was Frodo from Ásmundarsafn in general. My work is part of my creative process. it if Grímsdóttir had done a couple of I was recently thinking of how fun it Lord of the Rings at some point. This based on a piece entitled Pýramídísk warm up exercises before the gig, as would be to make a movie that’s set would be a true story biopic based on abstraksjón (“Pyramidic Abstrac- Davíð Örn Halldórsson’s exhibit of the stiffness was apparently getting in Berlin around 1998, when I was in Dóri’s imagination and the awesome tion”), I painted a single little painting paintings and installations, Hvar er in her way again, which really put a the process of moving there. They had singing talents of Maggi. I want Brad on the wall there. klukkan?, opens in Hafnarborg, Haf- damper on an otherwise good delivery. a lot of underground bars and a great Pitt to play Dóri. The world is FILLED My painting is called “dos pyrami narfjörður, on November 7. The Gerðuberg Matinée Series is music scene that later begat artists with stories. I could write an endless dos” because there are four pyramids a regular occurrence with free admit- like Peaches, Gonzales, Mignon, The amount of scripts, I think. in the installation and I am trying to tance—I urge you to check it out this Puppetmastaz, Angie Reed, Kobrakill- work with the same train of thought winter. A full schedule may be found ers and even Feist. They would open I heard you had a bunch of new songs as Ásmundur, mixing the two-dimen- at www.gerduberg.is clubs at the tram conductors’ bath- – will you be releasing them in the sional and the three-dimensional. It room facilities on Rosenthaler Platz, coming seasons? was a lot of fun getting to work within and on Monday’s they’d open a bar in No question. I’ll try. It’s so fun. There’s the context of Ásmundarsafn and the Haukur S Magnússon JULIA STAPLES

The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2009 Our correspondent seems less than thrilled with Sequences' opening weekend. Maybe you don't agree, or maybe you haven't had the chance to form an opinion. The festival's still going 20 on - check out the schedule at www.sequences.is and go see some art right now.

Art | Sequences Real-time Art Festival Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl

talk with Egill Sæbjörnsson and Macia Moraes. The two shared a relaxed and nice chat about the elements in Egill’s READ THIS COLUMN work. It was actually really good. Egill managed to wear a wig and eyeliner without being pretentious, and his ideas DON’T READ THIS where utterly interesting, the way he tries to put our presence into a larger scale of time and ideology. Well done! Afterwards COLUMN NOW READ Egill walked the audience through his show, and it was great. His piece The I recently saw a Norwegian they are there to guide us, and yet they Mind is mixed media of theatrics, sound sketch on Youtube about can so easily be used to fuck with our and images, all brimming with meaning. the invention of the book. heads—when they leave the realm of I loved it! A medieval man has just got- the expected. Do not finish this sen- The honorary artist of the festival, ten his first book and can’t seem to get tence. Before proceeding with the ar- Magnús Pálsson, was next up. His it to work, so he has to ask for help. A ticle, go back to the previous sentence operetta, Taðskegglingar, was surely help desk employee shows up to guide (which you obviously finished, you the main event of the weekend, as was him through this new state-of-the-art fool!) and read it again, this time with- indicated by the mass of people lining up technology, showing him how to flip out finishing. Do not read the following to see it. the pages back and forth, read from sentence. If all goes well you should not The Icelandic sound poetry choir left to right etc. The dim-witted book- be reading this. Then jump to this sen- performed the piece to a packed room owner has trouble understanding the tence and continue from there. Technical Difficulties of spectators. It was boring. It took too instructions and the irritated help desk For an Icelandic example I’d recom- long, and it was hard to follow. There employee asks if he never considered mend Sigurður Pálsson’s Nokkrar verk- My weekend at Sequences 2009 was a pretty cool scene where everything consulting the manual. legar æfingar í atburðaskáldskap (tr. A clicked, when the group formed into an The manual, of course, is another few practical exercises in performance The Sequences festival was formally suspended. But I did not like it so much. airplane with suiting soundscapes. The book. poetry) from Ljóð námu völd. launched a week ago, on Friday October From the Maritime museum I went rest was just incoherent and confusing. Instructional poetry is a modern Italian-American poet and artist 30th. I had heard that major sponsors to see The Spartacus Chetwynd Mime Magnús Pálsson is for sure a major day verse form in which the reader is Vito Acconci once wrote a famous in- had been backing out throughout last Troupe. I was excited to see them. The figure in the world of performance art in told to do certain things in a certain structional poem, which contrary to year due to the financial crisis. I don’t name of their piece got to me, Feminism: Iceland, but still this was not as good as it order, often “ridiculous” things which most instructional poems could easily know if this is true, but it would certainly Little Tales of Misogyny. But at the should have been. cannot be done or don’t seem to serve a be followed. So easily, in fact, that not explain some things. My experiences at House of Ideas, my friends and I waited Halldór Úlfarsson was next on the “purpose”. One of the most famous ex- doing what it says proves to be impos- the festival led me to believe that it was around for forty minutes before giving schedule. His work in the Icelandic amples of such poetry is to be found in sible even for the most agile readers, the severely understaffed—at times it also up and leaving. We did not want to be late Graphic Gallery, entitled Almost Yoko Ono’s book Grapefruit. most cunning minds: seemed unorganised and chaotic. for the airing of the video instillations at Nothing, was interesting, a circling video “Make all the clocks in the world fast “READ THIS WORD THEN READ Due to prior engagements, I missed the Regnboginn movie theatre. camera and a monitor videotaping the by two seconds without letting anyone THIS WORD READ THIS WORD out on the opening night celebrations. I When we got there, we sat around in room, looping it in time. This set quite a know about it” it says in one of the po- NEXT READ THIS WORD NOW” etc. later heard that the best thing on offer the dark for 25 minutes before hearing a nice scene, and the artist’s presence was ems. “Decide not to use one particular etc. was Sigurður Guðjónsson's live event, voice in the dark saying the show was not not to spoil it. syllable for the rest of your life. Record This is the pataphysical, the sphere consisting of a gigantic video projection, happening due to technical difficulties. The last event on my list was things that happened to you in result of beyond the merely metaphysical. Like men smashing rocks and the great death Turns out we missed the only thing that S.C.O.U.R.G.E by Melkorka Huldudóttir that,” says another. in the book-manual-book problem of metal band Severed Crotch. had actually been screened. at Dwarf Gallery, a tiny Basement One of the most quoted sayings of our medieval reader mentioned ear- See now. Three events visited, in Þingholt. The piece was nicely conceptual poetry is from the philoso- lier, instructional poetry deliberately Waiting around on a and three suffered from technical overwhelming in the very fitting room. pher Ludwig Wittgenstein: “Do not breaches the social code of messag- Saturday afternoon difficulties. That is understandable. A black helmet connected to tubes giving forget that a poem, although it is com- ing. It undermines the trust we natu- On Saturday my art walk began by the Technology will sometimes fail you. Not out a mechanical breathing sound while posed in the language of information, rally put in the imperative, and thereby harbour, at the beautiful Maritime so understandable, though, is the fact different lights lit up the small space, the is not used in the language-game of manages to rid us (at least partially) of Museum, which I was visiting for the that not a single representative of the artist sticking her head into the helmet giving information”—I’m even pretty our ridiculous obsession with obeying first time. I was there for a performance festival was to be found at any of these and pulling it back out repeatedly. sure I’ve let it grace these fine pages of everyone that sounds like an author- by a couple of Danish artists that call events. No one stepped forth and told the the Reykjavík Grapevine in some ear- ity, while simultaneously entertaining waiting audience what was happening or themselves Prinz Gholam. The event Lazy artists lier column. Instructional poetry takes us with the sweet, humorous sound of why they were waiting was supposed to start at 14:00. Half The last thing I managed to fit into my this idea to task and uses the language chains breaking. This is not cool. Sequences is a major an hour later, nothing had happened. Sequences schedule was Páll Haukur of information to give information (i.e. cultural event, and there was nobody Nothing at all. Björnsson’s This Dumb Region of the instructions) which deviates from the Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl’s third novel, Gæs- there to represent it. In my book, that is A person I assumed to be one of the Heart, which turned out to be one the thinkable and thereby (literally) bends ka (Kindness), has just been published by seriously amateurish. artists walked around in circles, looking weekend’s highlights. His companions reality. Mál & menning. What saved my Saturday at all stressed. Nobody said a word. The picked me up in a shady looking car, the While Yoko Ono provides the reader Sequences was the Parfyme group. In 25-strong audience said nothing, and driver put on his driving gloves and his with well nigh impossible tasks, Cana- the programme, the group says that they for a moment I found myself thinking: cohort put a portable DVD system in my dian poet Darren Wershler-Henry, in work with "immediate actions carried “Wow, art can be so hard to understand, lap. The drive began and so did the piece. his book The Tapeworm Foundry, feeds out – without too much planning." The this is so post-modern! A happening It is in some ways a road film, these video the reader with ideas for art-works and event seemed super organised and that imbues in the viewer a feeling of recordings of Venice-scapes. His take on poetry books, some possible and oth- together compared to the other events inferiority and insecurity.” death, travelling, the repeating patterns ers impossible and many borderline: visited. Their post office was a friendly This was not the case. After poking in reality and God. I loved it! “find the threads in redhats andor litter place to visit, the postmen were all around with a TV set for quite a while, This about sums up my experiences keyboard with milletseed so that exotic smiles and their concept is a great one. talking about technical difficulties and at the first weekend of Sequences. I songbirds might tap out their odes to a Write your friend in the countryside a scolding a six year old for treading too wish I could have made more of it. Then nightingale andor transcribe the letters line, they deliver it on a gigantic postcard, near the TV, the artist finally set the again, not so much. I witnessed too pressed onto the platen when stalactites videotaping the journey and bringing it piece in motion. It consisted of these two many things that led me to believe that drip on the homerow keys andor recon- back in a week. I loved it! Danes doing physical therapy exercises performance art is the platform of choice struct the ruins of a bombedout capital for twenty some minutes. “Suspended for lazy people, or those just plain not i.” time and absorption are central in our Sunday at the Reykjavík Art ready for other things. The imperative form of instruc- performative work,” I read about this Museum tional poetry is a dizzying tool which piece. It is true, that is what it is. It My Sequences Sunday began at the Bóas Hallgrímsson can easily send the reader spinning. felt self-absorbed, and time sure was Reykjavík Art Museum, at an artist JULIA STAPLES Instructions are made to make sense,

ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS A LOOK INTO NATURE Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The Story of the Icelandic Museum of Natural History

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU- Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) SCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is

Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 17 YOUR FREE COPY

Page 8: Sharing our fast food with the world is arguably a more noble cause than setting up investment firms and online banks. No matter how bad things get, the demand for food served in paper bags seldom wanes. Paul F Nikolov thinks Icelanders should go on the offensive in The Fast Food Wars. Imagine Peace Tower Page 10: Greek politics take place on the street. On Monday, a group of Imagine Peace Tours from Oct, 9th–Dec, 8th, every evening at 20.00 neighbourhood fascists attempted to occupy the square Agios Pan- The tour is dedicated to Yoko Ono’s IMAGINE PEACE TOWER that gives light and teleimonas. Fascist is not a slan- power to the realization of World Peace, which was John Lennon’s lifetime wish. derous name imposed on them by their opponents, but their explicit identity. The Grapevine went to Greece, where they have some pretty real fascists.

Page 24: Stephenson and Fleming un- doubtedly shared many a drink, Stephenson’s favourite being a dry martini, shaken, not stirred. Fleming later remarked: “James Bond is a romanticized version of a true spy. The real thing is Bill Stephenson. Turns out James Bond is based on an Ice- lander. Who’d have thought it?

Page 28: I’ve also envisioned a sci-fi flick set in Reykjavík and would be around the band The End and their theories on the end of the world. It was to be based on the lives of Dóri and Maggi from the band and their music, they are great musicians. Egill Sæbjörnsson on the movie he wants to make.

Page 11: You have to be thorough. We can- not afford to have cases thrown out in court. We are all pretty glad Special Prosecutor Ólafur Hauksson is being thorough. Pick up from your hotel, guided tour and sailing: Reservation is necessary: Page 27: Adult 30 € / 5000 ISK tel. 555-3565 or on www.elding.is Despite resembling a death laser, Child (7–15 years old) 20 € / 3500 ISK We recommend to dress warmly. there is something calming about Child (0–6 years old) FREE the Imagine Peace Tower from up close. Adventures from Reykjavik harbour Grapevine checked out the Peace Tower up close.

gogoyoko presents: Grapevine Grand Rock Lights On The Highway, Snorri Helgason, Markús Bjarnason & The Diversion Sessions, Prins Póló Grand Rokk 22:00 / Friday November 13 / 1.000 ISK Grapevine Grassroots Awesome young talent and upcoming artists - check Grapevine.is for info! Hemmi & Valdi 21:00 / Friday November 27 / FREE