©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 95

Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Crossing the neighbourhood’s always 4 Dōgenzaka (p98) Scop- (p97) Losing yourself in the lively, neon-lit main drag. ing out the all-night club crowds at ’s busiest 3 Shimo-Kitazawa (p100) scene on the sloping stretch intersection – and getting Getting lost in the tiny al- also known as Love Hotel swept along in the beating leyways of this well-loved, Hill. heart of desire, aspiration bohemian neighbourhood, 5 (p104) Check- and materialism that is which offers a picture of ing out the hip hang-outs, Shibuya. how might look if such as Fuglen, in this ‘un- 2 Shibuya Center-gai hippies – not bureaucrats – Shibuya’ neighbourhood, (p97) Eating, drinking and ran the city. favoured by young creatives. shopping your way down

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Y Y a m a DAIKANYAMA t TAISHIDŌ Ikejiri- e e# 0 1 km £# -dō 0 0.5 miles Ōhashi r SARUGAKU- i CHŌ For more detail of this area see Map p273 A 96 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Shibuya & Missed the last train? You’re Shimo-Kitazawa not alone – or stuck for Shibuya is a neighbourhood that gets a late start – after options. Shibuya has plenty all it was partying until the first trains started running for night crawlers who were in the morning. Come for lunch. Ease your way in by lured out late by the neigh- starting with the Shibuya of the future: Shibuya Hikarie bourhood’s charms but (p105), a light and airy complex connected to the train who’d rather not fork over station with views over the neighbourhood. the yen for a taxi ride home. Then head down into the fray: exit the train station In addition to love hotels and for Shibuya Crossing (p97), the epic neon-lit intersection manga kissa (cafes where that has become synonymous with Tokyo. From here, you pay by the hour to read the pedestrian traffic flows onto Shibuya Center-gai manga, Japanese comic (p97), the neighbourhood’s lively main artery, lined with books), consider waiting for shops, cheap eateries and bars. the first train at a karaoke Shibuya is, above all, an entertainment district and parlour; most offer dis- it really comes alive at night. There are dance clubs, counted all-night packages live-music venues, theatres and cinemas galore. While from midnight to 5am. weekends are the busiest, you’ll find people from all over Tokyo here any night of the week (and you may find yourself drawn back night after night). Bars and karaoke 5 Best Places parlours stay open until dawn. to Eat It’s also worth spending some time in down-to-earth ¨¨d47 Shokudō (p98) Shimo-Kitazawa, home to cafes and vintage shops, dive ¨¨Shirube (p100) bars and underground live-music venues. ¨¨Matsukiya (p99) Shibuya &Shimo-Kitazawa For reviews, see p98.A Local Life ¨Teen Culture Local teens love fashion hive Shibuya 6 Best Places 109 (p105) and the ‘print club’ photo booths at Purikura to Drink no Mecca (p105). ¨ ¨¨Good Beer Faucets (p99) Record Stores Shimo-Kitazawa and the Udagawa- chō neighbourhood of Shibuya are studded with tiny ¨¨Ghetto (p99) specialist record shops that are popular with local DJs. ¨ ¨Fuglen Tokyo (p104) Pick up event fliers here. ¨¨Womb (p100) ¨Hang-outs The neighbourhood Tomigaya (p104) is the For reviews, see p99.A centre of a hip cafe and bistro scene.

 7 Best Places Getting There & Away to Shop ¨Train The JR Yamanote line stops at . ¨¨Tokyu Hands (p105) The Keiō Inokashira line departs from Keiō Shibuya ¨ ¨Fake Tokyo (p105) Station for Shinsen, Komaba-Todaimae and Shimo- ¨¨Shibuya 109 (p105) Kitazawa. For reviews, see p105.A ¨Subway The , Hanzōmon and Fukutoshin lines stop in Shibuya. The Chiyoda line stops at Yoyogi-kōen Station (for Tomigaya); some trains continue on the Odakyū line for Shimo-Kitazawa. ¨Bus Bus No 1 departs for from the east side of Shibuya Station, on the corner of Meiji-dōri and Miyamasu-zaka.