The Inside: To Pg. 16 CONDE NAST’S NEW BUSINESS/3 FASHION LOB/14 pB WWD -T -S Accessories WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • August 25, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Strike a Pose NEW YORK — The urban market is a fountain of streetwise style this spring. Designers are showing an array of edgy separates perfect for breaking it down in the park. Here, G Unit’s acrylic, spandex and Lurex shorts and acrylic and wool sweater with Younique’s cropped denim vest, R.J. Graziano bangles, JLo earrings, a Kangol fedora and Steve Madden boots. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Settling Up at Saks Inc.: Retailer to Repay $48M To Overcharged Vendors By David Moin

LED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID LED BY NEW YORK — Saks Inc., completing an internal investigation, said Wednesday that it will reimburse vendors for more than $48 million in improperly collected

Y SONJA/FRANK ARENDS; STY Y SONJA/FRANK markdown allowances from 1996 to 2003. The company, which made the disclosure after the stock market closed, said that it also expected to restate financial results for 1999 through 2004 because Saks improperly timed the AN SERAFINO/DOP DOP; MAKEUP B AN SERAFINO/DOP recording of the overcharges. The conclusion of the inquiry by the firm’s audit committee and board and the restating of financials might help expedite

ORK MODELS; HAIR BY KRIST ORK MODELS; HAIR BY See Saks, Page17 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; MODEL: RENEE DORSKI/NEW Y DAVID PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear

™

A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated FALL’S MVP Denim Is a Versatile BTS Player

For all the moods and personalities a girl comfortable wearing because of its versatility in might want to try on this back-to-school season, dressing-up and dressing-down.” there’s a look: boho chic, casual prep, casual surf, The Monitor reveals that 95% of girls would girly romantic. And for every look, something wear a pair of nice-looking denim jeans to school. denim can go with it. Up Against The Wall offers higher-end product, There’s the all-important denim and sees premium denim jeans, though this season a high appealing to the college-age BTS school or college-bound girl might consumer. “With premium want them either deconstructed or denim comes the feeling that you embellished, or both. Or neither. have something special,” asserts There’s a return of the denim Kim Stern, buyer. jacket, and denim skirts, whether The Monitor finds that 48% of short or long. females aged 16 to 24 say they Anne Brouwer, senior partner have a need to buy back-to-school Serena Williams and Maria Sharapova bring their styles to the U.S. Open, with McMillan|Doolittle, a clothes. The average girl expects starting Monday. Page 14. Chicago-based retail consulting to spend $204.11. firm, says she expects denim to With money in hand, this fall’s FASHION remain strong for BTS and school girl will have a lot of styles For the girl who loves to mix it up, designers are offering looks with a touch beyond. Niche brands, she says, from which to choose. JC Penney’s 6 of attitude, from slouchy denim pants to bright track jackets. will continue to influence the "[Denim] is a staple with all the key Lyons points to his store’s offerings: market, although the premium looks of the season.” the preppy look with brightly looks found among niche denim colored polos, cardigan sets and GENERAL — Tim Lyons, Saks Inc. owes vendors more than $48 million, stemming from the makers are now filtering down to JC Penney rugby shirts “straight out of the 1 improper collection of markdown allowances. more accessible prices. ‘80s;” a bohemian “haute hippie” “While premium denim will continue to sell, it is look that’s “all about eclectic layering with embellished Less than a month after ending its fiscal year with a nearly 50 percent pop still a small segment of the denim business,” Brouwer tops, shrugs, tunics and shrunken jackets, along with 3 in net earnings, Coach Inc. upped its first-quarter earnings projection. says. “The looks, however, are filtering down to moderate deconstructed jeans and full, tiered skirts.” The Council of Fashion Designers of America welcomed its newest price points. While this is a new concept, the trend Lyons points out that the day-to-day look for 5 members with a party at Vera Wang’s place Tuesday night. to freshen denim and offer distinctive cuts, finishes most teens is still “casual cool”: t-shirts, jeans and DENIM: In the aggressive market for pricy denim, retailers are taking over and logos will be strong across the board.” denim skirts. 10 the sketchpad and creating their own jeans brands. Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™, found “Track jackets are another key layering piece. Calvin Klein was a boon to Phillips-Van Heusen’s second-quarter bottom that when shopping for a new pair of jeans, 58% of Attitude T-shirts with retro logos and smart-aleck 12 line, posting revenues of $39 million, a 13 percent same-period gain. young women ages 16-24 concentrate on the $25 to slogans remain a staple. And if you don’t have a Citing lusty demand for high-end watches, Swatch Group reported a 21.4 $50 price range, 24% shopped for jeans under $25, Napoleon Dynamite T-shirt yet, better hurry.” 12 percent jump in first-half net income to $222.1 million. 13% stayed in the $51 to $70 range, and 3% looked Gap’s Archambault says the junior look is more for jeans more than $70. romantic this season. ACTIVE: While the tennis is bound to produce the usual U.S. Open drama, what the athletes are wearing also will be on center court. At JC Penney, denim “just keeps on going and is “For us, it’s not boho, it’s more classically feminine,” 14 still in a growth mode,” attests Tim Lyons, she explains. “We have some preppie, but not as big spokesperson. “It’s a staple with all the key looks of a statement as it’s been. For tops, it’s all about the EYE the season. This year’s updates include deconstructed, cable knit cardigans in jewel or earth tones. College- Dishing with Candida Lycett Green, a top British gardening writer who just patchwork and embroidered age girls can just throw them on 4 published her first novel…Painting a new picture of Matisse. When shopping for a new pair of jeans, details, along with ‘80s-style which of the following price ranges do you with jeans and it looks like they retro pocket stitching. The tend to concentrate on? Would you say… tried, but not too hard. We also combination of details is what have the jean jacket, which is 16 to 24-year-old Females Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 allows teens to create their such a classic. And we have a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Less than $25 24% individual style while still fitting velvet blazer with puffed sleeves [email protected], using the individual’s name. in and looking cool.” $25 to $50 58% and darts at the chest— it’s $51 to $70 13% WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Cotton Incorporated’s Jessica almost a Victorian silhouette so FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Greater than $70 3% Paruch, trend specialist, agrees. it’s more romantic.” VOLUME 190, NO. 42. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Average $35.82 issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in “Individual expression is still Donnellan says other hot February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL important within this age group. Customization trends at Up Against The Wall include skirts, which OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill through ribbon trims, sequins, patchwork and come tiered, embellished, and colorful with western Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior appliqués are really hot for fall. Any addition for or Pan Pacific influences, and message tees, Lacoste Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. aesthetic appeal, like grommets or geometric hardware, shirts, fitted track jackets and tanks. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. gives the wearer an edge that stands out.” Old Navy is pleased with denim’s performance, Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS The trend can be found at Up Against The Wall, says Andrea Lui, spokesperson. Other trends include CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North layering and “bright colors all around, from wovens Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. the 23-unit specialty chain whose denim sales are still Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four growing, according to Paul Donnellan, vice president. to long sleeve tees to cords. Cords will be available in weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- “We’re seeing embroidery and distressing becoming colors ranging from aqua blue to fuchsia.” 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit increasingly important over basics.” Penney’s also sees corduroy as an important item www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail For girls who prefer their jeans straight up, Gap is this fall, “mainly as an alternative to denim in pants, and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. offering jeans that concentrate more on the fit than jackets and blazers,” Lyons says. “We think we have WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND the trim. good sales momentum going into the back-to- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART “Jeans are perfect for this age range and we’ve school season.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE introduced three fits: curvy, straight, and original,” This story is one in a series of articles based on findings ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. says Erica Archambault, spokesperson. “The fits are from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ really an acknowledgment of how different women’s tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, bodies can be. The rise sits just below the waist and each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the there are lots of different styles within each fit – long American consumer and her attitudes and behavior and lean, low-rise boot cut, whatever a girl wants.” regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, Must Read Paruch says denim is still a must-have for back to fiber selection and many other timely, school. “It is something that every student feels relevant subjects. Get Women’s Wear Daily anywhere, anytime. A new issue is available at 12:01 AM EST. For more information, visit wwd.com. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 3 WWD.COM Condé Nast Eyes Business Launch in ’07

By Sara James Charles H. Townsend NEW YORK — In a bold move into a new publishing sector, Condé Nast will launch a business-focused magazine twinned with a Web site in 2007, Condé Nast president and chief executive officer Charles H. Townsend said Wednesday. The title does not yet have a name or a clear focus, but it does have an editor in chief: The Wall Street Journal’s deputy managing editor, Joanne Lipman. And a publishing head: The New Yo rker executive vice president and publisher David Carey will be president of what the company is calling “the new business group.” “We really have just entered into an agreement with Joanne virtually today,” said Townsend, speaking in a phone interview Wednesday. “She and S.I. [Newhouse Jr., chair- man of Advance Publications Inc.] and Tom Wallace [editorial director of Condé Nast] are going to be developing our approach to the category.” When asked if that approach would involve lifestyle coverage of the business world, Townsend said: “I don’t necessarily think that’s the only opportunity in the category. I’m not quite sure how you do lifestyle and business to- gether, but if there’s an opportunity there, we’ll do it.” He added, “A lot of what we do will have to be serious business coverage.” “The great opportunity here is we get to create it from scratch,” said Lipman. “We don’t need to be defined by what already exists.” Discussing the timeline for the new magazine, Townsend said: “Our target is to come out full frequency, at whatever frequency we deem necessary, sometime in 2007.” As to whether that might mean a weekly or biweekly title, he said: “For the moment, we see it as a David monthly magazine, but we’ve got a year-and-a-half to two years to Carey think that through.” He added that the new business group “won’t be limited to one magazine.…We’re looking at seminars and confer- ences and a major Web presence, and wherever else this takes us.” In her tenure at the Journal, Lipman founded the Weekend Journal and Personal Journal sections and oversaw the paper’s 2002 redesign. Most recently, she has been working on the launch of the paper’s Weekend Edition. She will remain at the Journal until the debut of Weekend “We have faith in the category,” Townsend contended. “We think the cate- Edition, on Sept. 17. Assistant managing editor Edward Felsenthal will gory is going to experience recovery.” now oversee all “Business of Life” coverage at the Journal. “This is an area of the marketplace where we’ve historically underrepre- A replacement for Carey at The New Yorker has not yet been sented,” said Carey, pointing out that the new group would finally diversify named. Prior to joining The New Yorker, Carey was founding pub- Condé Nast from its solid base in beauty and fashion. “While [the business] lisher of SmartMoney, a Hearst Corp. joint venture with The Wall Joanne category’s been a tough place to be for the last couple of years, it’s traditional- Street Journal. He briefly left Condé Nast in 2001 to be president Lipman ly a very good place to be.” and ceo of Gruner + Jahr’s Business Information Group. Which is why Condé Nast has been looking to enter it for some time now. Townsend mentioned the launch at a publishers’ meeting Aug. 4 at the Modern. Earlier this summer, talk circulated within Advance that Condé Nast had tried to buy More recently, he has been telling editors and publishers within Condé Nast that the Forbes, but the price tag was too high. Townsend acknowledged that there had been forthcoming project would be bigger than — and unlike — anything the company has some talks with Forbes, saying: “We have a close relationship with Forbes.” But, he previously attempted, with a budget surpassing any of its prior launches. said, “it really was never a serious business discussion.” On Wednesday, addressing the start-up costs, Townsend said: “I’m really not in a The company also was said to have been a soft bidder in the June auction for position to share the budget, but I think that anyone intending to make their mark in Gruner + Jahr’s Fast Company and Inc. — the titles ultimately went to Morningstar this category has to be prepared to fund it properly. We are certainly prepared to fund owner Joe Mansueto for $35 million. the launch. God knows what it’s going to be.” So what else might be on the horizon for Condé Nast? Townsend said: “This is our Especially considering the current state of the category. Fortune’s ad pages are focal point. This takes us through 2007. We have Cookie coming out [from WWD’s par- down 14.5 percent year-to-date to 1,705.6 pages. Business Week is down 10.1 percent, ent company, Fairchild Publications Inc., like Condé Nast, part of Advance to 1,618.8. Forbes is down 5.3 percent to 1,771.8, Fast Company fell 12.8 percent to Publications Inc.]. We have another issue of Men’s Vogue coming out. Between Cookie 347.1 pages and Inc. slipped 2.5 percent to 563.9. All figures are according to the and Men’s Vogue and this business publication, I would say our plate is rather full.” Media Industry Newsletter. — With contributions from Jeff Bercovici

INSIDE OUT: And now, the latest evidence that celebrities are — to borrow Bonnie Fuller’s immortal formulation — just like us: V Life, the Coach Raises First-Qtr. Estimates MEMO PAD glossy Variety spin-off for and about Hollywood players, is looking for new readers among the NEW YORK — Less than a month after ending its fiscal year with a nearly 50 percent general public. The September issue, out this week, is the first that will be sold on pop in net earnings, Coach Inc. upped its first-quarter earnings projection to above an- newsstands. Previously, the two-year-old magazine was distributed only to 62,000 alysts’ estimates while also saying three of its top executives will stay on with the com- subscribers of Variety’s daily and weekly editions — that pany through at least August 2011. is, to people who have a professional interest in movies In a statement Wednesday, Coach said because first-quarter results are tracking ahead and television. Executive editor Tom Tapp said he hoped of plan, the company expects earnings per share in the period to be at least 25 cents on the expansion would allow V Life, which is also going to sales of at least $445 million. Same-store sales are expected to be up in the low teens. monthly frequency from bimonthly, to double or triple The consensus estimate of 20 analysts calls for a profit of 24 cents in the quarter end- its readership. ing Oct. 1 on sales of about $443 million. In comparison, Coach earned 17 cents a share But is that a good thing? Until now, V Life’s ability to in the first quarter of the prior year on sales of $344 million. bill itself as a true insider’s read has set it apart from Coach also said it sees fiscal year 2006 EPS of at least $1.25 on sales of about $2.1 bil- competitors such as Vanity Fair and Premiere. Won’t lion, which would be the first time the company surpasses the $2 billion mark. The Wall bringing civilians into the fold force the magazine to Street consensus is also for $1.25 with sales projected to be $2.11 billion. lower its level of knowingness? Will they be interested in On Aug. 2, when Coach reported fiscal-year 2005 earnings that jumped 48.5 percent stories about Jerry Bruckheimer’s favorite microbrews, or to $388.7 million, the company offered first-quarter EPS guidance of at least 24 cents Creative Artists Agency’s new headquarters? “I think and full-year EPS at a minimum of $1.24. there is another circle of people who are knowledgeable “We have seen robust sales continue throughout the summer and into the start of the enough and interested enough in how people at the top of the entertainment industry fall season across all business units,” said Lew Frankfort, chairman and chief executive work and play that we don’t have to change much of what we do,” said Tapp. “The officer of New York-based Coach, in the statement. “Consumers have enthusiastically minute that we start pandering to the outsider, we lose our point of differentiation.” embraced our transitional and fall offerings, including the updated Hamptons Weekend, In other words, don’t expect V Life to play in Peoria. — Jeff Bercovici Soho and Hamptons Leather collections; the new sophisticated Signature Patchwork handbag group, and the Chelsea collection in leather and Optic Signature fabrications.” MASTHEAD MOVES: With mammoth September issues finally out the door and on Regarding employment agreements with its top executives, the company said newsstands, there’s finally a brief window of time to relax, recharge and, not least, Frankfort; Reed Krakoff, president and executive creative director, and Keith Monda, restaff. With that in mind, Harper’s Bazaar has poached Stacey DeLorenzo from president and chief operating officer, each have entered into three-year extensions of Vogue to be its new director of photography, starting Sept. 12. She replaces Cary their initial five-year employment agreements. The extensions now put their agree- Estes Leitzes, who recently left to start a company that helps pair artists with ments into effect through August 2011. commercial ventures. In Style also beefed up its photo department, hiring Frankfort said the extension of the agreements underscores “our optimism and con- Michelle Thomas as senior photo editor. Thomas, who has worked as a tinued commitment toward the business.” He added that “ensuring the continuity of photographer’s rep and booking agent, will report to Bradley Young, the magazine’s this leadership will be a key factor in providing excellent results well into the future.” new photo director. Finally, Teen Vogue has made three additions to its fashion Investors liked what they heard and sent shares of Coach up 4.1 percent to close at department: senior market editor Taylor Tomasi, market editor Joanna Hillman and $33.99 in Wednesday trading on the New York Stock Exchange. associate accessories editor Sarah Kuhn. — J.B. — Meredith Derby 4 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 WWD.COM Candida Lycett Green Henri and Hilary LONDON — If there was ever an artist in need of a spin Cottage doctor, it was Henri Matisse, who was maligned and misunderstood during Hilary his lifetime and for Spurling decades after his death. Then his biographer Hilary Spurling came along Industry and helped shift many of the perceptions of Matisse, especially in Europe. LONDON — Candida Lycett Green gardens from the gut. Spurling won rave reviews for her first volume of One of England’s premier gardening writers — who Matisse’s biography, “The Unknown Matisse: The recently published her first novel, “The Dangerous Edge of Early Years 1869-1908.” The second volume, “Matisse eye® Things” (Doubleday) in the U.K. — Lycett Green learned The Master: The Conquest of Colour 1909-1954” about plants the hard way and has never really bothered (Alfred A. Knopf), has won equally fulsome praise in with Latin names, special effects or complex architecture. England, and is set for its U.S. debut this fall. “When I first started I didn’t know what I was doing — it was Her latest work tracks Matisse’s career and appalling,” she says from the window seat in the kitchen of her 18th- examines his close friendship with Pablo Picasso, century Oxfordshire cottage. “I got it all wrong. I didn’t realize that his dramatic family dynamics and the relationships when you cut down nettles, they grow back stronger,” she adds with a with his Russian models Olga Meerson and Lydia smile and a roll of her eyes. Delectorskaya. Spurling, Matisse’s only biographer, Those early mistakes clearly paid off, for outside the kitchen window relied heavily on her exclusive and unrestricted are the fruits and flowers of decades of experience: a green lawn edged access to decades of correspondence between with spring bulbs including daffodils, narcissi and camassia; trellises Matisse and his friends and family. covered in crab apple, and, off to one side, a potted garden filled with “He was always miles ahead of his time, and his irises, lavender, sage, fennel and thyme. only contemporary who understood that was Picasso,” For a specialist writer — Lycett Green cowrote “The Garden at says Spurling, who describes the two artists’ Highgrove” with her friend, Prince Charles, and other books on relationship as “very strong and fraternal.” Indeed, gardens — her own patch is homey, unpretentious and efficient. She Spurling says Matisse acted like an older brother to and her husband of more than 40 years, Rupert Lycett Green, a former Picasso, and argues the latter’s move into Cubism was Savile Row tailor, tend to the garden themselves. a response to Matisse’s earlier paintings. “They were “I believe in gardens working for you. You can get a lot of food out deeply fond of one another, and raised each other’s of a small garden; for example, from the apple, pear and peach consciousness,” she says. trees. And I wanted to make it so we could look after this garden Sadly, with regard to his without any outside help. My other gardens had been so big. We’d friend Matisse, Picasso was have to be outside constantly looking after them.” a voice in the wilderness. Lycett Green, 62, says her garden, with its hawthorn hedge and Spurling readily admits hollyhocks that climb as high as the bedroom windows in the that Matisse could have summertime, is like a child’s drawing — colorful, welcoming, done with a very good spontaneous and unfussy. publicist. The art world of In the vegetable garden at the back of the cottage, the Lycett Greens the time just didn’t get him grow lettuce, broad beans, tulips and raspberries. The gardens are and quickly dismissed his fully organic, and Lycett Green says she learned a lot from working work — especially the now- with Prince Charles, a longtime champion of organic farming. world-famous colorful Lycett Green is the daughter of England’s late poet laureate, John cutouts — as superficial and Betjeman, whose letters and prose she has edited. A mother of five, she A walkway in Lycett decorative. has spent a lifetime planting and writing books on English cottages and Green’s garden. “His entire life he suffered abuse from the art houses. Lycett Green has now made her first foray into fiction with “The establishment,” says Spurling. “They couldn’t Dangerous Edge of Things,” based on her carefree childhood in a Berkshire village not far from where she lives now. make heads or tails of what he was doing. Picasso “I couldn’t have had a better childhood,” says Lycett Green, whose bohemian mother nurtured her love of nature, was seen as the revolutionary and Matisse was taking her on journeys through the English countryside on horseback and in a horse and cart. viewed as the opposite — dull.” “My mum was a terrific wildflower expert. She was a good natural gardener — whatever grew, grew,” she says. Those preconceptions lasted for decades after Lycett Green has a similar stress-free approach to her own gardens. “In the end, what is a garden for, but for his death in 1954, and even affected the author feeling peaceful and for pleasing the senses?” herself. One prominent European art historian — Samantha Conti initially pooh-poohed Spurling’s idea for a biography of the painter, arguing Matisse would be “too dull” to write about. “But I was convinced that TIPS FOR AN INSTANT, LOW-MAINTENANCE GARDEN someone whose paintings had such power, force FROM CANDIDA LYCETT GREEN and energy was certainly not boring,” says Spurling. “It was a terrifying process, but I had to ● Box: Its instant architecture gives order to a garden, like a picture frame. back my hunch as a biographer.” ● Apple, pear, peach trees: You can live off the fruit, and a pear tree trained onto a wall looks wonderful. Other Matisse legends that Spurling set out to ● Arches: In wire or wood, they make good divisions, and you can train crab apples and pears over them. debunk in the book include talk that he was ● Water: The sound of water is idyllic and pastoral. There’s something primal — and comforting — about it. oversexed and automatically slept with his models, ● Picket fencing: This is for cottages mostly, and gives a certain childlike satisfaction. and that he had dealings with the Nazi regime in ● Terra-cotta pots: They’re like cushions on a sofa. If you group them correctly, their plants and flowers add shots of color. France. And in addition to dispelling popular ● Stone and tin: I like stone garden gnomes and tin watering cans, and I don’t like anything plastic. myths, she also made some interesting discoveries. After poring over the stacks of letters the Matisse family allowed her to read, she came to an unexpected conclusion. “He should have a second NOTO, Italy — Having previously invaded the ICI reputation as one of the great letter writers of the , S LY Hamptons, Nantucket, Aspen, Palm Beach and O 20th century. The cache of letters is astounding, and WWD the Dominican Republic, I set my sights for a T I could have written 10 books based on them,” she stcard O

summer vacation on the remote southeastern area of N says. “They are so vivid, rich, powerful and moving.” Po Sicily, known as Noto, as the guest of the fashion The author also underlines the major role that designer Luisa Beccaria; her husband, Lucio Bonaccorsi, a women played in Matisse’s life. “They were all 5 Sicilian prince, and four of their five gorgeous children. Time 200 extraordinary — his wife, his daughter, Lydia. has stopped here. There is not one crumb of plastic or inch of Unlike Picasso, who saw his women either as neon. The view is 500 acres of olive and almond trees. Twelve When they’re not, they’re asking me what I think of George Bush. goddesses or doormats, Matisse liked women who years ago, Luisa and Lucio began to not only restore the castle, They clarify that they are not anti-American, just against our could box back,” she says. but also revive the old Sicilian culture of aristocratic country life. present administration. But it’s embarrassing. I don’t want to Spurling, who has also written biographies of Ivy They rebuilt many of the very thick white stone walls, painted the defend Bush. I am also rehashing information about Tom Cruise. Compton-Burnett and Paul Scott, is clearly rooms with pastel colors, decorated with pale, simple furniture, The chef makes delicious dishes made from homegrown passionate about her subject, but after 15 years of and created interiors that float in the air on a mountain top. It tomatoes, zucchini, cucuzza, eggplant, olives, almonds, research — and two hefty volumes of prose — she takes a lot of guts to announce, “We did not hang paintings cucumber, carub, pasta, etc. We feast for the entire stay. The says she’s more than ready to move on. because none are as beautiful as our views.” There is also no air- local light wines flow like water. The perfect vacation…. “When I finished writing, I felt like I’d been conditioning or fans. A breeze always fills the long antique lace crushed by a tank,” she says with a laugh. “This curtains. You are living Visconte’s film, “The Leopard.” With biography completely occupied my life — it was other houseguests, there is a total of a dozen perfect children like a marriage that finally ended. Now, my life is plus the housekeepers. All in all, 21 people speaking in Italian. my own again. I’m in recovery.” — S.C. CETT GREEN PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS; SPURLING COURTESY OF KNOPF TIM JENKINS; SPURLING COURTESY CETT GREEN PHOTOS BY

Editor’s Note: Uberpublicist Peggy Siegal just returned from a summer jaunt to Noto, Sicily. LY WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 5 WWD.COM CFDA Newbies Chez Vera Wang NEW YORK — As college campuses across the country gear up for freshman rush, the Council of Fashion Designers of America welcomed its newest members with a party at Vera Wang’s home here on Tuesday night, and the rookies proved they can hold their own. Roll call was thankfully never taken, but the CFDA’s student body was well repre- sented, from Alice Roi to Yeohlee. Guests made themselves right at home in Wang’s perfectly appointed Park Avenue pad, with more than a few wondering aloud, “Can we see the bedrooms?” Wang’s husband, Arthur Becker, was unfazed by the onslaught from Seventh Avenue. Asked if he had any reservations about hosting the bash, Becker dead- panned, “Nah, we rent this out on weekends.” As the night wore on, the only ones who showed any signs of wear and tear were the hosts’ two young daughters, keeping a smile on despite a few boisterous guests and the snap-happy photographers. In line with most of the crowd, Doo-Ri Chung, a CFDA newcomer, was up for the party. “For them to welcome me into this feels like a big, huge fraternity,” Chung said. “It kind of kicked up what I’m doing to the next level. For me as a student, this is the most amazing thing.” She was not the only one left a little starstruck by the occasion. Derek Lam, another freshman, said, “It’s very humbling to be in a room with all these incredible designers and to still know I have a huge way to go.” Carolina Herrera Carolina Herrera, Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli, Simon Doonan and Derek Lam and Arthur Becker Nicole Miller, Marc Bouwer, Oleg Cassini, Jill Stuart and Stan Herman were other designer minglers. good,” he said. “Broadway artists have their union. With the CFDA, we feel that Herrera enthused about the newcomers, “The first we’re protected.” thing people ask about fashion is, ‘What’s new?’ So new Miller surprised her dinner companion Richard Mishaan by wearing a faces, new energy, new everything is good — I love it.” chartreuse shirtdress he designed in the Eighties. “I’ve been waiting for the Costa said the shindig was better than a class reunion. right moment to wear it,” Miller said. “Celebrating the people who are joining this group is Juicy Couture co-founder Gela Nash-Taylor’s husband, John Taylor of Duran Duran fame, could have used a little extra protection from a few Vera Wang overzealous guests. “I was standing there talking to him, thinking, ‘You are so handsome.’ I felt like a rock groupie or something,” one designer confessed. Some decamped to the outer rooms to swap secrets. As one guest admitted, “It’s nice to be in a room filled with people you like. Of course, there are always a few you don’t like.” Donna Karan’s Patti Cohen dug out a beauty product from her purse for Wang. “If it’s a rejuvenator, I’ll use it 24 hours a day,” laughed Wang, who earlier in the night de- scribed herself as “the oldest young designer.” Nash-Taylor was equally forthcoming about her attire. She was quick to note her black strapless dress is from her company’s Couture Couture dress collection, which makes its debut at retail this spring. Turning up the hem to reveal sequined netting, she said, “We never used to have anything to wear out at night. Now we do.” Her husband was impressed by the fashion scene. “I find it quite inspiring actually,” Taylor said. “They really have to deliver con- stantly. There’s a lot more perspiration in the inspiration. We could use more of that in the music industry. Musicians are allowed more time to create. The more success- ful you get, the less demands are placed on you. Major performers put out a record every three years. It’s not like the Sixties or Seventies when they would put out a record every year.” Continually interrupted by arriving and departing guests, Wang, in a necklace given to her by Alber Elbaz, said, “My biggest fear was that nobody would come and for the first half hour there were four people here. But now I’m really happy. Only in Marc Bouwer and his company Gela Nash-Taylor, Adrienne our industry would people be here in August in the middle of the week. It’s like a president Paul Margolin. Landau and Stan Herman. class reunion in the best possible way.”

CFDA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER CFDA PHOTOS BY — Rosemary Feitelberg

Street between 10th and 11th Avenues. Juelz driving his fans crazy. Leigh hasn’t revealed Santana, the hip-hop artist, was on hand, but the name of his latest play, or even its subject Fashion Scoops attendees were mostly mothers pushing matter, even though the show is set to open babies in strollers, men in suits walking next month. Despite — or maybe because of ROBERTS FOR REBECCA: She may look fabulous in vintage through on their lunch breaks and teenagers — the big mystery, all 16,000 tickets for the Valentino, sleek in Armani and oh-so-sexy in Dolce & Gabbana. sitting on the curb sketching designs in their run are already sold out. “Mike Leigh has been But when it comes right down to it, Julia Roberts is a pretty, sketchbooks. Even a class trip from the working off-site for the last 17 weeks with his sweet Rebecca Taylor girl at heart. The Kiwi designer’s breezy, Eastern District YMCA in Brooklyn walked team exploring characters, relationships, Boho fare caught the actress’ fancy while she was shooting the through. A very different scene from the one themes and ideas,” said Libby Warrington, a latest video, “Dream Girl,” for the Dave Matthews Band. the mayor’s office was afraid would emerge. spokeswoman for The National Theatre, which Reports are that Roberts told her stylist that Taylor is her new “As artists, our freedom of expression has commissioned the play. “Details of the plot are favorite designer. Of course, the star walked off the set with a been attacked,” one artist, known as Lady known only to those directly involved in the bushel of chiffon frocks, knit tanks and Pink, said, referencing the rehearsal process.” Warrington added: “It’s a beaded cardigans, but Taylor may have just mayor’s crusade against this tribute to his reputation that so many people scored herself a major front-row get for the event. “[Rudolf] Giuliani want to come and see a play without knowing upcoming fashion week. already tried, [Michael] much of the detail.” Bloomberg won’t succeed.” ECKO GETS UP: Considering all the hype As irony would have it, Lady Graffiti artist, Lady Pink, at work. DOWN THE AISLE: Must have been in the air. surrounding Marc Ecko’s Getting Up Block Pink has created patriotic murals in Queens Frédéric Fekkai proposed to girlfriend Shirin von Wulffen while Party on Wednesday, the day went off without that were funded by Queens Councilman Peter the two were attending a wedding in Sweden. The happy pair a hitch. With cans of Montana Gold spray paint Vallone, who has teamed up with Bloomberg in then flew south to warmer climes for an idyllic boat trip at their feet, graffiti artists tended to their condemning this event. When asked if she’d through the Greek islands of Patmos, Mykonos and Simi — canvases, the controversial mock subways that continue to do work for the councilman, Lady where they no doubt started plotting who would get an resulted in a lawsuit filed by Ecko against the Pink said emphatically, “Hell no!” invitation to their nuptials, which are expected in May or June City of New York on First Amendment grounds. 2006. And to keep it international, they’re planning to be Julia Roberts married in von Wulffen’s homeland of Germany. The dress, DJs spun hip-hop tunes by artists such as the MIKE LEIGH’S MYSTERY: British director Mike with Dave you ask? No prize for guessing that it probably will be by late Biggie Smalls and Onyx while a crowd, as Leigh, of “Vera Drake” and “Secrets and Lies” Matthews. Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent, where von Wulffen works. PINK PHOTO BY JASMIN CURTH PINK PHOTO BY varied as the artwork, strolled down 22nd fame, has a secret all his own — and it’s DY LA 6 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005

Street Performance NEW YORK — For the girl who loves to mix it up, especially on a hot day in New York’s Washington Square Park, designers are offering looks with a touch of attitude, from slouchy denim pants to bright track jackets.

Diesel’s cotton jumpsuit. Cecile & Jeanne necklaces, one worn as a belt; JLo bangle; Stuart Weitzman shoes. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 7 WWD.COM

10 Feet’s cotton jeans; Rocawear’s cotton tank and satin jacket. Agatha bangles; JLo earrings; Alex and Ani rings. Miss Sixty’s cotton jeans; acrylic and spandex top from Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons; Pony’s polyester and nylon jacket. R.J. Graziano necklaces; JLo ring; Agatha bangle.

Cotton jeans from YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY S AND SEBASTIAN RUBIO RALLI; BCBG Girls; Barking Irons’ cotton T-shirt; Miss Sixty’s rayon dress, worn as a shirt. Guess earrings; Noir ring; Ben Amun necklace, worn as a belt; JLo bangles; Kangol Blue hat. Polyesterlyester jacketjacket from Adidas Respect Me by Missy Elliott; Esprit’s cotton and spandex tank; Boxfresh’s cotton and linen pants. Ben Amun necklaces; Alex and Ani ring; Burberry sunglasses. L PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY SONJA/FRANK ARENDS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KIRBY ROGERSON; NEMCATACOA STREET THEATER BY NICOLAS CIFUENTE BY STREET THEATER ROGERSON; NEMCATACOA KIRBY ASSISTANT: ARENDS; FASHION SONJA/FRANK L PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY

Jones New York’s cotton jeans; David Meister’s silk and cotton tanks. Selima Optique sunglasses; Agatha necklaces; DKNY Jeans’ cotton jeans and sweatshirt; Cecile & Jeanne bangles; Guess watch; Spicy Tuna’s cotton tank. Puma glove; Nike Air Force 1 Premium sneakers Converse sneakers; JLo earrings. from Premiumgoods, 718-369-7477. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; MODELS: ELLEN HART/ELITE AND RENEE DORSKI/NEW YORK MODELS; HAIR BY KRISTAN SERAFINO/DOP DOP SALON/LOREA SERAFINO/DOP KRISTAN MODELS; HAIR BY AND RENEE DORSKI/NEW YORK TURNER; MODELS: ELLEN HART/ELITE DAVID PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 WWW.WWD.COM Denim Dish Mudd Gets Curvy With Ashanti Mudd jeans will offer juniors with curvy figures a new line of affordable but fashionable fits this fall, backed by the company’s first celebrity-driven launch campaign. Delicious Curves by Mudd will hit stores such as Filene’s, Kohl’s, Macy’s and Mervyns in November, tar- geting a portion of the 15- to 24-year-old market that has been overlooked, according to Dick Gilbert, founder and chief executive officer of the New York-based junior line. “We knew there was a huge void at the $38 to $42 price point,” said Gilbert. Ashanti, the 24-year-old R&B singer who has signed on to be the face of Delicious, said she is not only a denim lover, but understands how difficult finding the right fit for an affordable price can be. G-Star stores, like this “It’s always hard for me to find jeans that fit the one in Berlin, are perfect way without having to get them tailored,” said identicalidentical inin design.design. Ashanti. The designs are drastically different from the core Mudd product, according to Gilbert. but we also bring in something new every season.” “The point is, it’s not big, it’s curvy,” said Gilbert. G-Star Celebrates With U.S. Push In America, as in Europe, there are 12 deliveries a year. Delicious will be available in 18 styles and four to G-Star, the Amsterdam-based denim and sportswear label, “The whole system of G-Star is based on getting five washes and will feature embellishments such as is celebrating the one-year anniversary of the first G-Star fresh product delivered every month,” Gayadin said. embroidery, rhinestones and cutouts. Rises will be store in the U.S. with more openings across the country. In Europe, up until six years ago, Gayadin said there slightly higher than the core Mudd design and higher in New G-Star stores popped up this month in Boston were deliveries in just January and July. the back, so the jean fits flat against the back, rather and Chicago. A San Francisco unit is to open Sept. 22, “The sell-throughs weren’t tremendous,” he said. than standing upright and producing a gap. bringing the U.S. store count to five. G-Star opened in “Af ter two months, the staff saw the same product hang- Initial response to the line has been strong. New York in July 2004 and Los Angeles last October. ing in the stores and they weren’t energetic in selling it. “We’ve booked $2 million right out of the box from the There are 38 G-Star stores in 18 countries. G-Star Then we switched to 12 deliveries and the sell- August market,” said Gilbert. “I believe we’ll do between will open stores in California’s Orange County in throughs were unbelievable.” $18 million and $20 million in the next 18 months.” February, and in Dallas and the Georgetown section of Gayadin said the brand has a 40 percent annual Ashanti’s endorsement is that of a Washington, D.C., next August. wholesale volume growth rate worldwide. He expects denim aficionado. The collection is about 60 percent bottoms, 40 per- the wholesale volume this year to reach $500 million “I am such a jeans person,” said cent tops, and is consistent in every store. globally, with about $35 million, in wholesale, coming Ashanti, naming True Religion, Marc “The collection contains about 1,500 pieces,” said from the U.S. Wholesale prices for the collection range Jacobs and Diesel as a few of the brands Deepak Gayadin, North American manager of the from $69 to $150 for denim bottoms. All manufacturing she wears. “I have two closets and one is brand. “We have basics that come back every season, is done in Amsterdam. loaded with jeans. I even had to add Next month, G-Star will move its Manhattan-based extra shelves to hold them all.” North American headquarters from a 2,500-square- A look Fit and price were the standouts of foot Meatpacking District office to a 10,000-square-foot from Delicious, said Ashanti. space on the 11th floor of 599 Broadway, just north of Delicious “I think one of the most important Houston Street. The office will be renovated so that it Curves by things is the price point,” said Ashanti. reflects the same industrial aesthetic as the G-Star Mudd. “It’s affordable and looks hot. It’s all stores. The look will be achieved with oak, glass and about what looks right on you and not metal surfaces. having to spend two arms and two legs “We use a lot of organic styles,” Gayadin said. “We’re on a pair of jeans.” trying to give a clear look to the consumer.” —Ross Tucker —Lauren DeCarlo

In the push to integrate a more luxe aesthet- J. Crew’s Classic Approach ic to the brand, the designers behind J. Crew XOXO Adds Premium and Plus have launched a premium denim collection Contemporary brand XOXO is launching its first premium for fall. denim collection and plus sizes for fall. “We’ve been evaluating the quality across “This collection will feature better fabrics and multi- the board,” said Jenna Lyons, senior vice processed washes,” said Cindy Lang, design director for president of women’s design. “It’s been a nat- XOXO premium denim. ural progression. It has taken so long because The fall introductory collection will include a skinny there is so much competition in the market- style, a boy-cut number and a traditional boot leg, but the place, but we had to do it in the J. Crew way.” collection gets a boost, Lang said, from embellishments such The “J. Crew way” is to focus on clean, as vintage rhinestones and studs. The premium collection classic cuts and washes. The premium col- will be identifiable by a red metallic XOXO label on the back lection will offer the same bodies as the pocket. The retail price range of the collection is $69 to $99. existing collection, but in fabrics such as Some key looks include the Lauren, a loose, low-waisted Japanese and Italian denim. Styles include boy-cut style with lace trim around a hip-slung, a boot cut, a boy cut and an the top of the waistband. “It’s very ultra-low cut. Each body is available in six to soft and slouchy,” Lang said. The eight washes. Ashley, named for Lang’s daugh- “We wanted to look more old school, more ter, is a skinny leg. “It’s very sexy classic,” Lyons said. “The washes are clean and flattering,” Lang noted. The and the look is very natural and not so fash- Nicolette is the boot-leg style. iony.” The collection, which will The premium denim collection began also include premium denim shipping this month and the full collection is skirts, blazers and jackets, will be slated to be in stores by November. Retail distributed at Macy’s and prices for the premium denim range from Burdines department stores $115 to $275. The retail price range of the nationwide, in addition to select non-premium denim collection ranges specialty stores and xoxo.com. between $78 and $98. XOXO is also launching The two collections won’t have any differ- plus-size denim in the main ent back-pocket logos or hangtags. Instead, line and premium denim collec- Lyons said, salespeople will be responsible tion. For fall, sizes will range for educating consumers on the difference from 14 to 22 on bottoms and The Lindsey style, boot-cut jeans between the two lines. 1X to 3X for nondenim tops. with arrowed pocket flaps. “As far as the difference of the jeans is “For the plus sizes in denim, we’re really focusing on concerned, you can see it in the quality of the product,” Lang said. “We just want to offer our cus- J. Crew’s the denim,” she added. “We are one of those tomer some newness.” ultralow companies that don’t like to scream any- The plus-size collection will be available at Federated trouser jeans thing.” department stores, macys.com and xoxo.com. inin premiumpremium — L.D. —L.D. stonewash.

10 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 WWD.COM Denim Report Boutique Brands on the Rise By Khanh T.L. Tran make exclusive styles this fall for its nine edged the inherent conflict with retailers locations, although none will display the whose private label collections compete LOS ANGELES — Retailers are taking Scoop name on the exterior. While it’s against his products. over the sketchpad in the competitive common for stores to stock T-shirts em- Ross said he approached Hudson market for pricy denim. blazoned with their logo, retailers usually about making 400 units of the cobranded Kitson, the trendsetting Los Angeles produce private label collections after jeans for his boutique on Robertson CONDER PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE; KITSON BY JEREMY GOLDBERG boutique, has teamed separately with being in business for several years and Boulevard in Los Angeles. But Ross won’t Kitson put its name on jeans produced by Hudson. Hudson Jeans and Adriano Goldschmied’s building cachet as a brand. go as far as making his own jeans. GoldSign label to sell jeans featuring the That South Willard scored its own pri- “I don’t want to alienate my denim peo- buyer and designer for B, S & T USA Inc. Kitson name boldly on the back. The deals vate label deal is a testament that shop ple,” he said, adding that he tripled the in Los Angeles, who brokered the deal. represent the next stage of collaboration owners are not confined to the role of number of jeans labels he carried in the The process started in November 2004. between retailers and middlemen in the thriv- past year. “I want them to work with me.” Conder said they whittled a list of about manufacturers. ing jeans business. The Heeding her boss, Kitson buyer six Japanese manufacturers down to one. “It’s the new level,” said prominence of Kitson’s Christina Minisian codesigned the $195 Conder and Kays served as the fit models Kitson owner Fraser Ross. name on the cobranded jeans with Hudson, using an existing and asked a half dozen friends to try on Another example is jeans also underscores jeans body. She conjured the unicorn, the jeans. Though they haven’t yet set South Willard, a low-key the influential role retail- fluffy clouds and rainbow adorning the retail prices or financial projections, they 800-square-foot shop that ers play in the industry. back pockets after flipping through chil- said the jeans will most likely sell for since its founding in May “Kitson represents to dren’s coloring books. more than $150. 2004 has been selling art me a new generation Still, a retailer who knows what cus- The only denim that South Willard books and hard-to-find store,” said Goldschmied, tomers want might not understand denim stocks is men’s styles by New York’s Rag & labels such as Paris-based who did a similar project manufacturing, said Thomas George, Bone. Conder said South Willard will carry Bernhard Willhelm and with Barneys New York owner of E Street Denim Co. in Highland the new women’s line from that label. He Japan’s Zucca Travail on and plans others with Park, Ill., who has spent 30 years in the said he does not see competition brewing Los Angeles’ Third Street. Barneys Japan in Tokyo denim trade. between Rag & Bone and his forthcoming South Willard, collaborat- Ryan Conder of South Willard. and Selfridges in London. “For me to go out and create a jean is collection because the two lines subscribe ing with Tokyo-based The collaboration with going to take a lot of work,” he said. to different aesthetics. While Rag & Bone manufacturer Death Valley, will launch Kitson resulted in stretch velveteen pants For South Willard, the heavy lifting is refined workwear, South Willard is an its own brand of jeans for fall made of in three colors, embroidered flowers was handled by Death Valley. Boutique inconspicuous jean, he said. Japanese denim. climbing up the leg and a label declaring co-owner Conder had worked in surf South Willard’s denim will be available “The designing is more of filling a void “Kitson L.A.” on the back belt loop. Each shops for 15 years and Kays is a costume in two styles — straight cut and slimmer than reinventing a wheel,” said Danielle pair will sell for about $195. designer who oversaw wardrobe for the straight cut — and three colors: indigo, Kays, who owns South Willard with her Peter Kim, president of Los Angeles- recently released movie “Junebug.” black and faded black. All the stitching is boyfriend, Ryan Conder. based Hudson, said it makes sense for the Neither had ever designed jeans before. done with gray thread. In lieu of an osten- Other retailers have tried to cobrand hip specialty shops to venture into pri- It was their vision and style that helped tatious label, Conder and Kays stitched a and make private label collections. New vate label. convince Death Valley to handle produc- gray rectangle where a label would nor- York-based Scoop said AG, Seven For All “They made a name for the brand,” he tion for the new collection for men and mally be found and layered three rows of Mankind, James Jeans and Earl will said. Yet, as a manufacturer, he acknowl- women, said Takehiko Arima, a Japanese gray stitching on the back pockets. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 11 WWD.COM The Beat Alvin Valley Seeks Acceptance, As Is NEW YORK — Alvin Valley is ready to show consumers you shouldn’t have to make any alterations to them, his other personality. except maybe for the hem. On a personal level, it’s Embellished tank This spring, the ready-to-wear designer will launch something I’ve always wanted to say to my parents. It and jeans by As Is As Is by Alvin Valley, a contemporary collection con- was always a struggle with my parents. I wanted to say, by Alvin Valley. sisting of what he calls “straight sportswear.” ‘I don’t want to change. You take me, ‘as is.’” “There are two personalities to me,” Valley said. As Is by Alvin Valley will be distributed to 300 spe- “There is one that dresses up and socializes where cialty and department stores worldwide, including money and creativity have no limits. But I also wanted Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. to dress the customer who’s on the street. I don’t want Additionally, freestanding As Is by Alvin Valley bou- to be a designer whose clothes are only seen at gallery tiques will begin sprouting up within 18 months. He’s openings. I wanted to do a collection that was very tai- hoping to open storefronts in cities such as New York, lored. It’s cool and fresh.” Los Angeles, Miami and Las Vegas. An advertising cam- Valley wanted to take the appeal of his rtw collection to paign consisting of print ads in fashion magazines and a wider audience. Riding the success of his tailored pants, billboards is also being considered. Valley sought to create a collection around his pants that Valley said he expects the wholesale volume for As took women beyond the hours of “9 to 5,” he said. Is by Alvin Valley to “A lot of the buyers [of the rtw collection] were say- reach $10 million in its Alvin Valley ing, ‘You’ve already won people over, but not everyone first year. can afford a $1,400 jacket,’ ” Valley said. “By the second year, Part of the demand, he said, came from department we should reach $20 mil- stores that wanted to carry his collection but felt lion wholesale,” he said. restricted because of prices. The challenge, Valley “Clearly, department stores have the most problems said, lies in commercial because they are divided by floors and price points,” success. Valley said. “Being commercial is So, with pants at its core, he created a collection of much more challenging blazers, blouses and sweaters at a lower price point, than being a successful roughly 50 to 75 percent below the Alvin Valley exclusive designer,” he Clothier Collection. As Is by Alvin Valley will launch at said. “To be a successful the Fashion Coterie trade show here next month. exclusive designer, all I “The collection is trend-driven and driven by fit,” have to do is sell one he said. “I’m giving people what they are already look- dress and make one ing for. We’re not working like a lab and experimenting. woman happy.” We’re giving the customer exactly what she wants.” The brand is owned The collection consists of roughly 12 to 20 styles of by Valley and his busi- pants in fabrics such as cotton, Italian wool and cash- ness partner, Richard mere and wool, with a wholesale price range between Rosenthal, but Valley $110 and $175. Pants feature Valley’s famously long 38- said, “We’re in the final stages of closing a deal with inch inseam. Jacques Moret. I’m really focused on making Alvin “It’s really long,” Valley quipped. “It’s absurd, but Valley a brand and a permanent part of the American you can always cut a [pair of pants]. You can’t make it fashion language.” longer.” Joey Harary, founder and president of Jacques Blazers wholesale between $245 and $325, and Moret, said it was “just a matter of days” before the coats, in wool and cashmere, have a wholesale price deal was completed. “We’re very excited about it. We range of $275 to $425. plan on seeing a tremendous amount of growth with “It’s contemporary, but it’s a higher-end contempo- the brand,” Harary said. rary,” he said. “I didn’t want to skimp on fit. You should Valley has no plans to stop with the contemporary feel like you’re getting it at a reasonable price. We market. He said, “I would love to follow up with a

wanted to keep it crisp and luxurious.” masstige collection. Who knows? Maybe Sears will call.” STEVE EICHNER LLEY PHOTO BY The name, he said, has two meanings: “First of all, — Lauren DeCarlo VA

“New York” written in Arabic on a Reading Between the Cultural Lines Rana Hajjar tank. NEW YORK — Rana Hajjar’s T-shirts spark political debate “When you study design, you’re aware of everything,” as well as knowing smiles. Some see them as canvas for elab- Hajjar said. “You graduate a different person.” orate graphic design. Hajjar said architecture and fashion design share many Hajjar’s Ts are different because the names of international similarities, among them, “the pursuit of simple, clean lines,” cities are written in Arabic across the front. noting that designer Tom Ford has a degree in environmental “I wanted to make Arabic hip, without being too ethnic,” architecture from Parsons School of Design. Hajjar said over dinner in the East Village, In 1999, she moved to the U.S. and began her near her home. “I wanted to try to find people “Brooklyn” career as an architect. Last September, she had like me who grew up in the Middle East, but written in the idea to create a line of T-shirts as a way to were trying to find something cool and funky, Arabic on a acknowledge her roots. Initially, she sent a few from a design point of view.” Rana Hajjar shirts to friends, but then requests for more The shirts come in women’s, men’s and T-shirt. styles kept popping up. Hajjar was convinced children’s styles. In what she has dubbed to create a full line by her friend and now busi- “The City Collection,” short- and long- ness partner Nicola Montrucchio who, like sleeved Ts and tanks are available in green, Hajjar, is an immigrant and first-generation orange and blue, and feature New York, New Yorker. Brooklyn, Dubai, Paris, Los Angeles, San “The world is changing,” said Montrucchio, Francisco, Beirut and London written in a native of Turin, Italy. “You want to have Arabic in Hajjar’s own hand. something from your roots.” “I wanted to modernize Arabic calligra- Hajjar hopes that with Montrucchio’s help phy,” she said. “It’s not at all traditional. she will be able to take the company to the next People are attracted to a design.” level. Her collection, she said, will always have Hajjar put her graphic design skills to the Arabic words or phrases on them, but she wants test and created a updated form of the traditional script. to expand it to include handbags, scarves and sexy tops adorned Her full-time job, however, is as an architect at a lower with Arabic poetry. Manhattan firm specializing in commercial design. Late The collection is sold at the boutique Artez’n in Brooklyn nights and weekends, she is the creative director of the Rana and on the Web site ranahajjar.com. The wholesale price Hajjar collection. range of the collection is $12 to $18. Hajjar expects the Born in Beirut, Hajjar, 34, moved with her family to Dubai, firm’s wholesale volume this year to reach $100,000. where she spent her youth. Later, she moved to Montreal to “The possibilities really are endless,” Hajjar said. study architectural design at McGill University. — L.D. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 WWD.COM McDonald’s Is His Kind of Place: Calvin’s Strong Sales Buoy PVH in Quarter Herchcovitch to Redo Uniforms NEW YORK — Calvin Klein was a boon to Phillips-Van Heusen once again. By Mike Kepp While PVH’s bottom line for the second quarter ended July 31 on an earnings-per-share basis was dragged down by the costs of a sec- RIO DE JANEIRO — Top Bra- ondary stock offering, the company delivered robust sales on strong zilian designer Alexandre Herch- performances in its dress shirt, sportswear and Calvin Klein-li- covitch, branching out in many censed businesses. directions, has inked a deal with PVH’s Calvin Klein licensing segment posted royalty and other McDonald’s to redesign the uni- revenues in the quarter of $39 million, a 13 percent gain over the forms of its employees in Brazil prior year’s $34.6 million in revenue. The Calvin Klein business — the first such contract the also clocked a 15 percent jump in operating earnings to $16 million multinational corporation has from $13.9 million in the prior year, the company said in its quar- ever signed. terly report after the market closed on Wednesday. In addition, Herchcovitch will For the second quarter, net income almost doubled to $23.5 design a collection of T-shirts to million from $13 million as sales rose 18 percent to $443.5 million be sold in Brazil and abroad from $375.9 million. On a per-share basis, the bottom line using McDonald’s characters. dropped 33.3 percent to 16 cents a share in the quarter from 24 Part of the profits from the sale cents in the prior year. of the shirts will go to McDon- For the six months, net income rose to $48.5 million from $14.6 ald’s institute for children with million in the prior year as sales increased 21.4 percent to $915.6 cancer in Brazil, he said. million from $754.2 million. On an EPS basis, net income came in at McDonald’s in Brazil hand- 67 cents a share for the six months, which compares with 13 cents in picked Herchcovitch for the task, the same period last year. rather than ask for Brazilian de- Excluding the cost of its stock offering, PVH’s second-quarter signers to submit competitive EPS was 43 cents, which was ahead of analysts’ consensus estimate bids. “We wanted Herchcovitch of 41 cents. And excluding the prior year’s restructuring and other from the start because his clothes charges, such as the cost of exiting its footwear business, PVH said have the young, modern look that EPS was 28 cents in the quarter ended Aug. 1, 2004. appeals to us and our employ- The stock offering-related charge recorded in the most recent ees,” said Flávia Vigio, corporate quarter was $14.2 million, and included an “inducement payment” communications officer for of $12.9 million as well as $1.3 million in other related costs, the firm McDonald’s in Brazil. “Herchco- said in a statement. vitch is the first designer McDon- Mark Weber, chief executive officer of the New York-based com- ald’s in any country has hired to pany, said in a statement he was pleased with results, and that design its employee uniforms.” PVH’s business model “is working and we will continue to focus on None of the McDonald’s the significant growth opportunity presented by the Calvin Klein headquarters in the other 119 brands, where growth in licensing revenue will drive operating countries, except for the United margin expansion.” States, is planning such a uni- The firm’s apparel and related products segment, which includes form redesign, said Vigio. In dress shirts and sportswear, experienced an 18.3 percent surge in June, a month after Herchco- net sales in the second quarter to $397.6 million from $336.1 million vitch signed his contract, in the same period last year. McDonald’s USA “coincidental- Weber said due to the sales performance in the quarter, PVH’s ly,” said Vigio, had a similar 2005 EPS is expected to be in the range of $1.75 to $1.80, which is idea and asked designers there above analysts’ consensus EPS forecast of $1.74. to submit bids to redesign its Alexandre Herchcovitch with McDonald’s staff in its current uniforms. PVH is holding a conference call with analysts today. uniforms. The designers who — Arthur Zaczkiewicz were approached ranged from dom, has already met with a Herchcovitch is dabbling. In Tommy Hilfiger to Sean Combs. group of 30 McDonald’s employ- 2002, he became the creative di- Vigio added that hiring Herch- ees to get their feedback. He has rector for Cori, an older-women’s covitch is in line with the chain’s already decided the uniforms brand that doesn’t compete with international “I’m lovin it” cam- will all feature the same colors, his own younger label. Also in paign aimed at making the the cuts will be different for that year, he signed a five-year Swatch Profits Rise McDonald’s experience a positive men and women to reflect their contract with Grendene, Brazil’s one for customers and employees. body shapes, and that all uni- biggest plastic shoemaker, to “We want the Herchcovitch- forms will be united by the same make footwear for its Melissa 21.4% in First Half designed uniforms to create a stylistic concept and will skew brand. Since 2003, he has de- youthful, modern identity so young, modern and casual. signed Melissa low- and high- PARIS — Citing lusty demand for high-end watches, Swatch that our employees, whose aver- “I’m leaning toward a light- wedged sandals, boots and high- Group reported a 21.4 percent jump in first-half net income to age age is between 18 and 21, colored, polo-shirt look for the heeled pumps that have sold 267 million Swiss francs, or $222.1 million, and voiced confi- will like wearing them,” he said. basic cashiers-servers uniform 600,000 pairs. dence for a strong second half. “We also want the uniforms to that will come in four sizes for In 2004, Herchcovitch signed a Reinforcing a bright outlook for hard luxury, the Swiss firm be more comfortable and practi- men and five sizes for women,” contract with Olimpykus, a Bra- also reported a spike in sales of components and movements to cal than our current ones.” said the designer. “What I know zilian sneaker maker, to design third parties, and rising consumer demand — even in sluggish Until now, the uniforms for for sure is that the tie and but- the uniforms that all the Bra- Europe. most of the 34,000 employees in ton-downed, long-sleeve look is zilian athletes, expect for soccer For the first half ended June 30, group gross sales climbed 6.1 McDonald’s 1,100 outlets in not an option.” players, wore to the Olympic percent to 2.08 billion Swiss francs, or $1.73 billion. Excluding Brazil, mainly servers-cashiers, Because Brazil’s climate Games in Athens in 2004. the impact of currency, the increase stood at 7.5 percent. Dollar have been three different-sized, varies from temperate to rain- And this year he signed a figures have been converted at average exchange rates in the unisex, button-down shirts in ei- forest tropical, Herchcovitch deal with Tok & Stok, a furniture corresponding period. ther blue check or burgundy, will develop a uniform material and housewares chain, to design In a statement, Swatch said it was “very confident” about its along with black trousers and with textile manufacturers — a collection of porcelain dish- prospects for the rest of 2005, mentioning the possibility of “a caps. Different items are current- he’s already met with Rhodia ware (plates, bowls, mugs and new record high for group sales.” ly provided by three suppliers. and DuPont — that will be a mix crystal glasses), as well as sofas Analysts said the numbers were largely in line with expecta- Herchcovitch’s job is to de- of cotton and polyamide. He and ottomans, all using print de- tions, and they cheered what management cited as a clear up- sign uniforms for all 15 McDon- wants the material to breathe signs from his past collections. ward trend in July and August. ald’s workstation positions, from better and be more wear resist- He also signed a deal this year In a research note, Goldman Sachs’ Jacques-Franck Dossin manager (a three-tiered posi- ant than the current McDonald’s with Motorola to design an said the figures suggest an improved product mix at Omega, now tion) and cashier-server, to grill uniforms, a mix of cotton and Alexandre Herchcovitch-label strong in mechanical watches. However, he called “disappoint- and maintenance workers. The polyester. mobile phone and cover and ing” a drop in gross margins owing to currency effects, an in- overhaul will require designing Herchcovitch plans to have expects to sell 12,000 such units crease in diamond prices and weakness with the Swatch brand, 60 items, ranging from man- the designs ready by the end of by the end of 2006. which is nevertheless slated for further retail expansion. agers’ ties and tailored jackets September and McDonald’s will “I just feel that if you’re a The firm, whose nameplates also include Breguet, Longines to maintenance-workers’ over- hire a manufacturer to begin fashion designer, as I am, it’s a and Rado, said operating profits rose 9.3 percent to 293 million alls to belts, caps and costumes turning them out by December. challenge to expand your styling Swiss francs, or $243.7 million. for employees to wear during The uniforms are expected to horizons, whether it means de- Led by the upper price category, gross sales of finished McParties — in-house parties last six years before they are re- signing Olympic and McDonald’s watches increased 7.2 percent to 1.55 billion Swiss francs, or for kids. designed again. uniform or dishwares and mo- $1.29 billion, an 8.9 percent gain at constant exchange. Herchcovitch, whom McDon- The McDonald’s contract is bile phones,” said Herchcovitch. — Miles Socha ald’s has given total design free- just one new area in which “Af ter all, it’s all design.” WWD DNR CEOSUMMIT Nov. 2–4, 2005, The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, New York City

A peer-to-peer meeting for CEOs managing the challenge of change

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Sponsored by: 14 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005

Active LifestyleX U.S. Open: Brands Ready the Big Serve

By Melanie Kletter Nicole Andy Roddick NEW YORK — A high-stakes competition for fashion — as well as tennis — supremacy Vaidisova opened the will be played out at the U.S. Open starting Monday. helped design new Lacoste The two-week tournament at the National Tennis Center in Flushing, N.Y., is one the Reebok shop in Macy’s of the most glamorous spectacles in sports and more fashion and beauty companies dress she will this week. than ever are trying to cash in on the cachet of the event. wear at the Nike, Lacoste, Tag Heuer, Adidas and Parlux are among the firms attempting to U.S. Open. leverage the Open’s appeal to affluent consumers. Polo Ralph Lauren is the tourna- ment’s new apparel sponsor and the company has ambitious marketing plans, includ- ing special collections and a 3,000-square-foot store on site. (See related story.) “There is a lot riding on the Open, both for the corporate sponsors as well as the ath- letes,” said Tracy Evans, an agent at Athlete Source, a sports marketing agency in Pacific Palisades, Calif. “It provides companies with a significant amount of exposure.’’ The tournament is projected to draw more than 600,000 visitors during its run, making it the best-attended annual event in the sports world. Just as important to the apparel and beauty companies, the average spectator has an income in excess of $150,000 a year, according the the U.S. Tennis Association, which organizes the event. At the Open, multimillion-dollar sponsorship contracts are born and die, new fash- ion trends emerge and business deals are cemented in luxury suites serving cham- pagne and lobster. Trends from the Open usually trickle down to retail, though for the biggest athletic companies, such as Nike and Adidas, tennis represents a small part of overall business. “I think anything that tennis celebrities are wearing certainly gives direction to the fashions at the grassroots level,” said Maria Stefan, president of Ellesse USA, which makes tennis and other apparel. “We live in a celebrity-driven culture, people always look at what TURNER LABERGE/GETTY DAVID ROBERT IMAGES; RODDICK BY CLIJSTERS PHOTO BY the stars are wearing, especially if they are winning. The Open is an aspirational event.” Heineken, Sprint and Continental Airlines. Star players, from Serena and Venus Williams to Maria Sharapova, as well as Citizen has been a sponsor of the Open for 13 years and the company recently Roger Federer and Andy Roddick, are young, successful, well-spoken and attractive, extended its partnership through 2010. Alyson Gottlieb, Citizen’s director of public placing them on the A-list of marketers. relations and advertising, said Citizen supplies the courtside clocks and score- Topping it all off, the tournament — broadcast on the CBS and USA television networks boards, and also has a luxury suite. — is the last of tennis’ annual Grand Slam events and unfolds in the business and media “The U.S. Open is one of our largest marketing initiatives and we tie it in a lot capital of the world, luring starlets, corporate and political big shots and other athletes. with our retail partners,” Gottlieb said. “It’s also a great way for us to entertain The players’ attire also will take center court. The Open has generated some mem- our retailers.” orable fashion moments — Serena Williams’ denim and leather outfits last year and The women’s competition is dominated by champions from the past, along with Anna Kournikova’s short, body-hugging dresses — and athletic firms use the matches some up-and-coming Russian players. Among the leading players, in addition to the to showcase their latest innovations in technology and style. Many of those looks are top-ranked Sharapova and Williams sisters, are Lindsay Davenport, Justine Henin- then introduced in consumer collections that are sold and marketed around the Hardenne, Kim Clijsters, Amelie Mauresmo, Elena Dementieva and last year’s Open Open, and often are available at retail in following seasons. winner, Svetlana Kuznetsova. For the second consecutive year, Lacoste will have a 1,200-square-foot store at the ten- Many of the apparel looks on tap for players seem slightly more subdued and nis center and a special collection of Open-themed looks available. Lacoste is also now feminine, with less of the razzle-dazzle sometimes on display. While the the sponsor for Roddick, who is featured in the company’s new advertising campaign. Sporting Goods Manufacturers Association doesn’t break out sales of tennis “The Open has become a major marketing strategy for us,” Robert Siegel, chair- apparel, a source there estimated tennis sales are about $1 billion. Overall man of Lacoste USA, said in an interview. “Lacoste has a long history with tennis. athletic apparel sales last year were an estimated $38 billion. While we are not a performance brand, we are a sports lifestyle brand and this is our Fila’s Tournament collection is primarily white with simple color absolute target market.” blocking. Patti Gallagher, Fila’s global product manager for tennis ap- The fashion world takes advantage of the Open’s New York City venue to stage events parel, said the collection comprises high-performance fabrics that wick that feature players with whom they have endorsement deals, often in the millions. moisture and also have sun protection, and will be worn by all of the Fila- Lacoste had an event with Roddick at Macy’s Herald Square on Tuesday to introduce sponsored players, including Clijsters. its new men’s in-store shop, and he is slated for a soiree tonight for “The U.S. Open is a great opportunity for us to debut a new the annual Taste of Tennis fund-raiser. collection,” Gallagher said. “We test new product and materials Sharapova, who stunned the tennis world by defeating with athletes during the off season or during practice to ensure it Serena Williams for the Wimbledon title last year, has been meets all of our performance and fit specifications.” stumping for sponsors Nike and Tag Heuer, and made an ap- The Tournament collection is available now for consumers at se- pearance on the “Today” show. She is scheduled at an event lect stores, and retails for about $45 to $75. tonight for Parlux to bow her new fragrance. For more than 20 years, Fila was the Open’s apparel spon- Serena Williams has appearances set for today for cosmetics sor, until Polo took over this year, but Gallagher said: “While brand Flirt and this evening with Range Rover. Adidas has a soiree we are no longer the sponsor, tennis is our heritage and this planned at its Manhattan flagship this afternoon with Andre Agassi is one of the most important categories in our company now. — the company’s newest sponsored athlete — and Federer and We are still sponsoring other sporting events and we are ex- other players are scheduled at a party for Vogue Men tonight. panding our presence internationally.” On Friday, the Women’s Tennis Association and the Tennis Sharapova likely will be the most closely watched woman play- Channel are hosting “Grand Slam ’O5,” a fete for some women er. The stylish 18-year-old is a media darling and has racked up an players where they will be treated to hair and makeup stylings, as impressive roster of sponsors, including Nike, Tag Heuer, Prince and well as designer frocks from Bill Blass and diamonds from Kwiat, Motorola. At an event this week, Sharapova showed one new look she before they head to the WTA kick-off party. will be wearing, a fitted light blue A-line dress with yellow piping. The Open is also a major event for sponsors such as Tiffany & Co., Nike also is outfitting Serena Williams, known for her flashy style on the Citizen and Macy’s, as well as Lexus, American Express, IBM, court, and Davenport, who usually sports more subdued looks. Williams has toned down her attire for this year’s Open. She is slated to wear a white-and- purple spandex and polyester dress with a pleated skirt. Davenport, meanwhile, is planning to sport a crewneck tank top and matching Nike Sphere skirt. These items are also all available at retail at Niketown and other stores. Nike also will have a 1,700-square-foot shop at the Tennis Center. Adidas is outfitting Henin-Hardenne, who is slated to wear looks from the company’s tennis competition collection, which includes ClimaCool technology, said a company spokeswoman. Adidas also is planning a guer- rilla marketing campaign in which some of its employees will be run- ning around New York acting as a tennis team to draw attention to the tournament and drive shoppers to the store, the spokeswoman said. Proceeds from some sales will go to Agassi’s foundation. Reebok no longer has an endorsement deal with Venus Williams, but she has continued to wear the brand on court, in- Maria cluding her win at Wimbledon this year, and is expected to sport Sharapova it again this time around. Reebok also will outfit its sponsored players, such as Nicole Vaidisova and Mauresmo, both of Fila-sponsoredila-sponsored athleteathlete KimKim ClijstersClijsters will wear this whom helped design their looks. Mauresmo will appear in a will sport a look from the blue number violet Rbk branded tennis tank top and skirt, while Vaidisova company’s Tournament collection. from Nike. will wear a pink tennis dress, said a Reebok spokeswoman. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 15 WWD.COM Estée Lauder Courts Williams By Julie Naughton

NEW YORK — Serena Williams doesn’t mind being seen as a flirt. A Flirt cosmetics creator, that is. For the next year, the tennis whiz and fledgling fashion de- signer will serve as guest color creator for the cosmetics brand, which is produced by the Estée Lauder Cos.’ BeautyBank divi- sion and distributed exclu- sively at Kohl’s stores. Her new role will be unveiled in a BEAUTY BEAT press conference, scheduled for Chelsea Piers today. And Williams has wasted no time in put- The new Polo store at the U.S. Open site ting herself to work: She’s already whipped up a trio of lip gloss- was designed to resemble a tennis club. es that will be sold at Kohl’s beginning in February. “I’m a total beauty junkie,” Williams said in an exclusive phone interview from her California home on Tuesday. “I think I’ve tried every product in the book.” Lauren Brings American Touch to the Open That intensive course in makeup was useful when she turned to creating her first color cosmet- By Marc Karimzadeh ics products. “Being in fashion [with her signature apparel line, Aneres, launched last fall], it was im- NEW YORK — It will be difficult for portant to me that the colors harmonize with tennis fans to miss the fashion flavor spring 2006 trend influences — I didn’t want to Polo Ralph Lauren is bringing to the make lip glosses that didn’t work with clothes. U.S. Open. After we focused on the trends, I just jumped in and Lauren is the first American fashion got my hands dirty mixing them all up.” And her firm to be the Open’s official apparel hands didn’t exactly get the worst of it: “My bed- sponsor, and as part of the long-term spread has a ton of lip gloss on it now!” she said partnership with the U.S. Tennis of her favorite mixing venue. Association, the company is embarking The glosses will each be packaged into exotic on initiatives that will take place gemstone-hued pendants that are designed to do throughout the tournament and beyond. The store is double duty as necklaces. Prices have not yet been Spectators will find a Polo boutique located in the finalized for Williams’ first collection, although in the Louis Armstrong Stadium near Louis Armstrong most products in the Flirt line are in the $10 to $12 the East Gate entrance, which had a stadium. range. However, multicolor palettes designed by soft opening this week. The 3,000- the last guest creator, actress Mila Kunis, sold this square-foot store features the designer’s signature navy blue and past spring for $25 each. white awnings, and staying with the tennis theme, is designed to re- The working names for Williams’ glosses are semble a tennis clubhouse with white as its main color scheme. Peach Sunrise, Strawberry Rush and Caribbean Features include white lacquered wood and a large triptych illustrat- Dream. She is particularly partial to the latter, a deep ing a stadium, replete with cheering visitors. purple gloss. “I love purple — it’s such a royal The space also has several large plasma screens to view live coverage color,” she said. “But normally, I’d look at a of the matches, mixed with recurring 30-second Polo commercials. The gloss this color — because it appears store’s exterior features a Jumbotron screen that will show a 30-second Polo to be very dark in the packaging — spot. The moving images on the screens are and not try it. But this one goes designed to give the space a sense of move- Throughout the Open, Polo will on very sheer and beautiful.” ment and energy reminiscent of the event. distribute terry wristbands. It’s a perfect match with “With an estimated 600,000 visitors com- color directions for fall, ing through the tennis center, we wanted the store to be able to accom- she said. “I can’t wait to modate a large amount of traffic as comfortably as possible,” said Wayne try on all these purple Meichner, president of the Polo Retail Corp. clothes,” she said. Industry sources said the store is bound to generate significant sales She’s also expecting volumes, given the footfall at the tournament. They estimated the store womanly looks — “not could have more than 100,000 transactions during the weekend of the girly looks, there’s a tournament’s fortnight. Serena distinct difference,” she The store will offer a selection of Polo Ralph Lauren merchandise, Williams has said — to reign supreme in stores this including the Open’s official stretch cotton mesh T-shirt designed by toned down fall, and said she believes the Indian in- Ralph Lauren. The shirt, at $85 retail, has the USTA logo embroidered her style for fluence on fashion will continue. on the right sleeve and an embroidered, Polo-player icon on the chest. the Open Speaking of clothes, Williams’ fash- In addition, the on-site Polo store is also a launchpad for the compa- this year. ion line, Aneres, has just gained a new ny’s expanded Heritage Collection. While this tennis line has been a Polo general manager, Kenneth Zimmerman — staple, the company has updated it for the U.S. Open by adding about 25 and with that task out of the way, Williams is turning her atten- styles, including a mesh tennis dress with a racerback and a pleated skirt tion to a different dream: planning a runway show. “When you and the U.S. Open logo on the back, for $165 retail; a cricket halter ca- come to New York, you have to make sure that all of the influ- New items were added to the bleknit sweater dress, for $450, and a terry group with a hooded top for ences and pieces are perfect, and I think that they are — but I Heritage Collection. $95, skirt at $65 and pants for $95. was too nervous to do [a runway show] this season,” she said. The new pieces from the Heritage collection will also be available at Polo boutiques on Madison She’s not ruling a show out for next season, though. Avenue and Bleecker Street in Manhattan, as well as in East Hampton, N.Y., and New Canaan, Conn. Williams will — unlike former Flirt color creators Michelle Shoppers will take home a special duffel bag with an oversized Polo player on one side and the Branch and Kunis, each of whom held a one-season role for the Open’s logo on the other. brand — will serve in the color creator role for a year. She’s al- Polo also has two in-store shops selling its U.S. Open merchandise at Bloomingdale’s here, said a ready started developing her fall 2006 beauty line, although she company spokeswoman. declined to give details. “You’ll have to wait and see,” she teased. “By bringing our lifestyle sensibility to the U.S. Open, Ralph Lauren will redefine the way the The self-proclaimed beauty junkie is also not ruling out a sports enthusiast shops,” said David Lauren, Polo’s senior vice president of advertising, marketing deeper foray into the beauty world. “I’ve always wanted to do my and corporate communications. “We are reinventing ourselves yet again, furthering our status as the own cosmetics,” said Williams. In the past, Williams and her sis- leader in luxury sports apparel.” ter, Venus, had had a spokesperson deal with Avon, although it The company is also looking beyond the boutique to give visitors a taste of the brand’s lifestyle didn’t include creator duties. “One of the reasons I was excited mantra. Lauren designed uniforms for line judges, umpires and ball boys and girls that are mostly to work with the Estée Lauder Cos. was because it is such a huge navy with accents of white and red, and a version of Lauren’s signature Polo-player icon. company — and they already produce so many of the brands that Throughout the tournament, line judge boxes will feature the Polo Ralph Lauren brand promi- I use and love, like MAC and La Mer. There are a lot of things I nently, and the video and electronic message boards will continuously air a 10-second Polo spot in- would like to do in this business, and I thought it was important side the stadiums. There will also be a 30-second Polo radio spot that will run on USTA radio and be to align myself with Lauder,” she said. Could that include, per- an audio feed on open.org. haps, a signature fragrance? “There are a lot of opportunities,” Visitors to the Open will even be able to take home limited-edition U.S. Open terry wristbands she said cryptically, adding that while she has other projects in that Polo representatives will be giving away during the two weeks. They are available in white with the works, it is premature to discuss them at the present time. a navy Polo pony motif or pink with a blue Polo pony. For now, Williams is thinking of her tennis game, regularly visit- “With this initiative, Polo Ralph Lauren is bringing a new level of luxury to the tennis arena in a ing a physical therapist to strengthen an injured ankle. way that has never been seen before at the U.S. Open or any sporting event,” David Lauren said. POLO PHOTOSPOLO BY TALAYA CENTENO 16 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 WWD.COM The National Retail Federation has estimated that b-t-s spending will reach $13.39 billion this year, down from $14.79 billion last year. WWD reported earlier this week that TheWWDList sales have been sluggish, due to high temperatures and soaring gas prices. Still, many retailers put their b-t-s goods out early this year, hoping to cash in on the Bohemian and Western fads of the season. Look-Look Inc., a research, marketing and trend firm specializing in youth culture, has provided the top fashion accessories female students are planning to purchase this b-t-s season. DeeDee Gordon, co-president of Look-Look, Styles of the Students said, “Jewelry has been so popular among younger people — the quality is better these days, and the products are closer to what’s happening on the runway.” — Cecily Hall Top back-to-school fashion accessories females plan to purchase this year. JEWELRY Percentage of female students who plan on purchasing for back-to-school: 44 Claire’s Stores, an accessories retailer that targets teens and young adults, features a section on its Web site titled “Bohemian Beat.” Wooden rings, 1 feathered brooches and chunky beaded necklaces and bracelets can all be found at claires.com. Marla Schaefer, co-chairman and co-chief executive officer of Claire’s, told WWD that in addition to Bohemian styles, customers also like gold earrings and extra-long necklaces.

PURSES Percentage: 43 Hobo bags and oversized totes are the way to go for back-to-schoolers this fall. Reason number one: They’re in fashion this season. Reason number two: 2 Oversized bags can potentially fit schoolbooks and supplies, eliminating the need for a separate backpack or shoulder bag. Trendy retailer Urban Outfitters offers both the bags and totes, while Wal-Mart features hobo bags and oversized crochet bags with sequins on its Web site.

SNEAKERS Percentage: 40 “American Idol” winner Carrie Underwood has been spotted in a slew of Skechers’ new sneaker ads for fall. The Manhattan Beach, Calif.-based company 3 signed her in July. Underwood, a longtime wearer of the brand, succeeds Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears as the new face of Skechers. Other recent ads feature action shots of students in private-school uniforms wearing Skechers sneakers, to target those heading back to school.

BELTS Percentage: 38 Oversized, colorful and bejeweled belts have hit the junior sections of department stores like Macy’s. Sash belts are also featured at macys.com. Belts 4 have been seen accompanied with jeans, skirts or dresses, all in an effort to live up to the popular Bohemian theme. For b-t-s, Aéropostale’s collection includes studded leather and metallic jeweled leather belts, both retailing for about $25.

BACKPACKS/MESSENGER BAGS Percentage: 37 Target features backpacks on one of its latest television advertisements, where kids of all ages show off various styles available — as a remake of Sir 5 Mix-A-Lot’s “Baby Got Back” plays in the background. In addition to backpacks, sling bags from C9 by Champion and messenger bags from Mossimo are hot items for the discount retailer. An added bonus for Target shoppers: Students can conveniently pick up all their school supplies there, too.

HAIR ACCESSORIES Percentage: 30 Colorful headbands, sequined head wraps and hairpins adorning butterflies or oversized flowers are all the rage at Claire’s Stores this year. And 6 Philadelphia-based Urban Outfitters is featuring its line of hair scarves for fall: Often adorned with sequins or prints, the collection is mostly made of silk or cotton.

DRESS SHOES Percentage: 28 “For young people who like to dress up, outfits have to start with the footwear,” said Gordon, of Look-Look Inc. Hot shoe brands like Mudd and 7 Unlisted will provide ideal options for those choosing to get gussied up on their first day of school. J.C. Penney Co. Inc. offers choices under the Mudd and Arizona lines, while Nordstrom Inc. sells dressy numbers via the Unlisted and Steve Madden brands, among others.

SCARVES KERI LEARY/GETTY IMAGES OVES BY Percentage: 23 American Eagle Outfitters features fall scarves on its Web site, ranging from $6.50 to $15.50. The AE Striped Campus Scarf is made of cotton and is 8 versatile in its range of uses: Young women can use it as a head wrap or neck scarf indoors or out, or they can tie it as a sash or belt around the waist.

HATS/CAPS Percentage: 20 Old Navy’s trendy straw cowboy hat is so popular that it’s out of stock at the moment on the retailer’s Web site. Instead, females can snatch up various 9 newsboy caps, available in tweed and corduroy; some contain oversized sequined flower pins. Another popular item available is a vintage-style hat, made of 100 percent wool, whose brim can be worn down or flipped up.

WATCHES * Percentage: 18 Students looking to buy a watch at Nordstrom will be impressed with the selection. The Seattle-based department store’s selection is extensive for 10 juniors, featuring watches from brands such as DKNY, Fossil, Diesel and Anne Klein.

IPOD/PDA/LAPTOP/CELL PHONE CASES * Percentage: 18 “IPod cases have remained at the top of our polls over the past couple of years, but this year it’s surprisingly low,” Gordon said. “Getting a camera 11 phone isn’t as special these days. Buying an iPod isn’t as special, either. The techy products are too mainstream now — so the demand for accessories to accompany those products is going down.”

GLOVES Percentage: 13 It’s a hard time of year to imagine purchasing gloves, but 13 percent of respondents still planned to buy them for the school year. Perhaps because of 12 heightened awareness or interest in knitting, items like gloves and scarves have become trendy accessories to make as well. “Knitting is big as a hobby these days — it’s a favorite pastime of lots of young people,” Gordon pointed out. PHOTOS: JEWELRY BY HARRY TAYLOR/GETTY IMAGES; BACKPACK BY REBECCA EMERY/GETTY IMAGES; HEADBAND BY JULIE FISHER/GETTY REBECCA EMERY/GETTY IMAGES; GL IMAGES; HEADBAND BY BY IMAGES; BACKPACK HARRY TAYLOR/GETTY PHOTOS: JEWELRY BY SOURCE: LOOK-LOOK INC., BASED IN HOLLYWOOD. FEMALE STUDENTS WERE ASKED TO SELECT ALL APPLICABLE FASHION ACCESSORIES THEY PLANNED TO PURCHASE FOR BACK-TO-SCHOOL. *INDICATES A TIE. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 17 WWD.COM

R. Brad Martin

Saks to Reimburse Vendors $48M Continued from page one general merchandise level, were escort- merchandising divisions improperly col- and for the third quarter of fiscal year the Birmingham, Ala.-based retailer’s ed out of the Saks’ Fifth Avenue flagship. lected markdown allowances from ven- 2001 there were understatements of ap- plan to sell off its department stores and Saks has been accused of improper dors totaling about $20 million. Although proximately $11 million. possibly its Saks Fifth Avenue division vendor charges in two lawsuits this year. the company never disclosed which divi- Saks said it will take disciplinary ac- for which it received bids this week. Saks Onward Kashiyama filed a suit in sion, it is believed to be the bridge area. tion against one current SFAE associate still faces investigations by the U.S. Manhattan federal court against Saks The company said that the overcollec- concerning this activity. The associate was Attorney for the Southern District of Inc. and its Saks Fifth Avenue unit, alleg- tions resulted from “falsification, by mer- not identified. So far, a handful of upper New York and the Securities and Ex- ing more than $9 million in deductions chants in the one SFAE division, of infor- and middle management executives at change Commission. and credits not agreed upon. Inter- mation delivered to vendors.” Saks Inc. and Saks Fifth Avenue have The company said its Saks Fifth national Design Concepts sued Saks al- The supplemental inquiry disclosed been either fired or financially penalized. Avenue division owes vendors $26 million leging breach of contract and fraud stem- last June involved investigating the tim- Management’s supplemental inquiry for markdown allowances during the ming from chargeback and vendor al- ing of recording of inventory markdowns identified evidence at SFAE of incorrect 1999-2003 fiscal years, and another $8.2 lowance practices. and vendor markdown allowances at timing of recording of vendor markdown million during the 1996-1998 fiscal years. An advanced round of bidding for the Saks Fifth Avenue. allowances that affected the quarterly re- In addition, vendors will be paid interest department stores was conducted this It also involved whether there had porting periods for fiscal years 2003 and at the rate of 7.25 percent annually, total- week. Speculation has focused on several been any overcollections of markdown 2004. Consequently, gross margin and op- ing about $14 million for the improperly private equity firms being interested in allowances in any Saks Fifth Avenue erating income for the first quarter of fis- collected markdown allowances. purchasing both the stores and Saks Fifth merchandising divisions that were not cal year 2003 were overstated, and for Saks previously said that it owed $20 the second quarter of fiscal year 2003 million to 12 vendors, including three The company said its Saks Fifth Avenue division were understated by about $3.3 million. owned by the same corporation. The Gross margin and operating income three are believed to be Dana Buchman, owes vendors $26 million for markdown allowances for the third quarter of fiscal year 2003 Ellen Tracy and Juicy Couture, which were overstated, and for the fourth quar- are owned by Liz Claiborne Inc. during the 1999-2003 fiscal years, and another ter of fiscal year 2003 were understated Important bridge labels include Elie by an estimated $4.4 million Tahari, Eileen Fisher and Lafayette 148. $8.2 million during the 1996-1998 fiscal years. In Gross margin and operating income Tahari and Fisher executives could not be for the first quarter of fiscal year 2004 reached for comment. Deirdre Quinn, pres- addition, vendors will be paid interest at the rate of were overstated, and for the second ident of Lafayette 148, said the company is quarter of fiscal year 2004 were under- not anticipating any payment from Saks. 7.25 percent annually, totaling about $14 million stated, by approximately $4 million. Sources speculated that contempo- Gross margin and operating income for rary sportswear also has been affected. for the improperly collected markdown allowances. the third quarter of fiscal year 2004 were Key contemporary vendors at Saks in- overstated, and for the fourth quarter of clude Theory, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Avenue, including Cerberus Capital the subject of the initial probe, and fiscal year 2004 were understated, by ap- Cynthia Steffe, Diane von Furstenberg, Management and Texas Pacific Group, whether there had been any inappropri- proximately $6 million. Earl Jean, Seven For All Mankind, Juicy which this year purchased the Neiman ate billing, logistics or transportation Saks will post these quarterly over- Couture and DKNY. Marcus Group. In addition, it is believed chargebacks. The inquiry did not find stated and understated amounts in re- The scandal resulted in the ouster of that Bon-Ton, the York, Pa.-based regional overcollections in either respect. stated quarterly reports for fiscal years three senior executives on May 9: Donald department store chain, wants to partner Saks also examined loyalty programs 2003 and 2004 to be included in the foot- Watros, chief administrative officer of with an equity player on a bid. Bon-Ton and other promotional activities and de- notes to the financial statements in the Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises; Brian would operate the department stores. termined these activities did not result annual report on Form 10-K for the fiscal Martin, a senior vice president of Saks Other private equity firms, such as in improper collections. year ended Jan. 29, 2005. Inc., and Donald Wright, chief accounting Blackstone Group and Bain Capital But the audit committee’s supplemen- Saks said it believes the incorrect tim- officer of Saks Inc. Martin is the brother Partners, could be interested. tal inquiry did find evidence at Saks ing of recording of markdown allowances of Saks Inc. chairman and chief execu- Saks Inc. in July sold off its southern Fifth Avenue of improper timing of did not affect annual results for fiscal tive officer R. Brad Martin. group of department stores (Proffitt’s and recording of inventory markdowns dur- years 2003 or 2004. In addition, the audit committee said McRae’s) to Belk Inc. for more than $620 ing the fiscal years 1999 and 2001, lead- The company expects that its restate- the bonuses of several executives, includ- million, leaving it with the northern group, ing to overstatements of gross margin ment work will be completed, and the ing R. Brad Martin and the chief finan- consisting of Carson Pirie Scott, Bergner’s, and operating income for the second 2004 Form 10-K will be filed, on or short- cial officer, Douglas Coltharp, “should be Younker’s and The Boston Store. quarter of fiscal year 1999. In addition, ly after Sept. 1. The company also ex- reduced or eliminated.” The internal investigation was first for the third quarter of fiscal year 1999 pects that its quarterly reports on Form The fallout hit the merchandising disclosed by Saks in March. In May, the there was an understatement of $14.5 10-Q for the fiscal quarters ended April team on May 13, when eight buyers in the company said that, during the 1999-2003 million. For the second quarter of fiscal 30, 2005, and July 30, 2005, will be filed bridge department, possibly up to the fiscal years, one of six Saks Fifth Avenue year 2001 there were overstatements, on or shortly after Sept. 30. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005

JR TEXTILE DESIGNER DONNA KARAN HOME Leading Home Textile Importer located in mid-Manhattan is Retail Sales Analyst offering an exciting, diversified growth opportunity in our rapidly PATTERN/SAMPLES growing in-house Textile Design Studio. Very talented and Donna Karan Home,aleading upscale home fashions Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast highly motivated junior designer experienced in the home company, seeks Retail Sales Analyst with 1 to 3 years work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 fashions industry, needed. Computer textile design knowledge experience. Position is based in our NY office and would required. Seeking qualified candidates having 2+ yrs profes- work with prestigious department store accounts. Seeking a PATTERNS, SAMPLES, sional experience. Should be able to take designs from concept strong team player with superior analytical, planning and PRODUCTIONS to full color product reality through CAD proficiency in Illustra- communication skills. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. tor, Photoshop, Freehand or proprietary textile design software Please send resume to [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. using Mac platform. 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 or fax to 704-522-4704 with "DKH Analyst" in the 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 This leading fashion forward Home Textile Importer offers an subject line. To be considered for this position, Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, exciting, diversified growth opportunity for the right person. please include recent salary history. Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 PRODUCTIONS Looking for a flexible goal oriented team player. For Space in Garment Center Full servcie shop to the trade. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Excellent benefits and retirement/401k plan. 212-880-0414 Send cover letter w/resume & salary requirements to: MERCHANDISING/PROD. ASSISTANT PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Showrooms & Lofts High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Email: [email protected] An established China textile mill is seeking a bright, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 or Fax to: 212-683-7546 energetic and organized individual to join our NYC team. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Must be able to mutli-task, have strong communication skills to follow-up with Asia office on developments and have 2+ West 34th Street Offices for Rent 4,500 sq. ft and 2,500 sq. ft. years experience. Bi-lingual mandarine A+. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Please send resume specifying job position to: www.dumann.com Email: [email protected] or STAFF ACCOUNTANT Fax: (212) 695-1930 Responsibilities include: A/P, bank recon, sales tax filings, monthly close. Qualified applicants must have: BS/BA in Accounting and 2-4 years of accounting experience in retail. Honduras Factory Quickbooks or Mas-90 a plus. VP Manufacturing Honduras Apparel Factory, extremely Contemporary Sportswear Company versatile equipment & personnel, experi- Please forward resume to [email protected]. seeks an energetic, take charge indi- enced management in place, turn key EOE vidual to head up its manufacturing operation, WRAP Certified, will benefit operations of knits and wovens. The from CAFTA. Currently sewing knits & individual we seek must have the woven garments. Email/Fax for more info: following requirements: [email protected] / F: 516-505-1370 DESIGNER •7+ years experience Updated Missy Denim Co. seeks •must have thorough knowledge of creative & organized designer. Should entire development & manufacturing have exp doing import packages, over- process from samples thru production seas correspondence & fully proficient •production management in PhotoShop /Illustrator. Some travel • supervise in house and freelance req’d. Pls email: [email protected] patternmakers •understand the production fitting & DESIGN/PRODUCTION grading processes Production Coordinator •technical knowledge of garment con- ASSISTANT Indivil. w/experience, detail oriented, struction Girls Sportswear Co. seeks a dynamic hard working & organized. Follow up •fabric knowledge team player to assist in production and for all phase products. Technical gar- •strong costing experience design. Responsibilities include: color ment, knowlg req. Experience of pri- •sourcing domestic & overseas approvals, comments on screens, and vate label. Communicated w/overseas. production DONNA KARAN HOME data entry. Candidate must be highly Fluent in Eng/Canto.Good computer organized, detail oriented & proficient skills. Email resume to: ASSOCIATE ACCOUNT MANAGER in MS Excel. Good company benefits! Fax to 212-695-0203 [email protected] Please fax resume Attn: Cathy email: [email protected] please no phone calls Donna Karan Home,aleading designer home fashions 646-562-9650 brand, seeks an Associate Account Manager with 2 to 4 years experience in wholesale sales. Position is based in our GRAPHIC ARTIST Production Manager NY office and would work with prestigious department store Jr. Sweater Mfr. seeks Graphic Artist. Proficiency in Photoshop & Illustrator Person with strong operational and accounts. Some travel required. Department store sales or req’d. Please Fax resume: 212-768-7752 manufacturing skills needed for facility buying background a must. Home furnishings experience in LIC. Must have min. 7 yrs accessory experience, strong leadership skills to preferred. Strong team player with superior communication, GRAPHIC ARTIST oversee staff of 40, be computer literate presentation, and retail planning skills. Leading childrenswear mfr seeking and have exp. preparing large shipments creative artist with 2-3 yrs exp. for dept. stores. Email resume w/ salary Please send resume to [email protected] llustrator/Photoshop proficiency, and req. to: [email protected] very detail oriented to design graphics or fax to 704-522-4704 with "DKH Sales" in the for a National Activewear brand. subject line. To be considered for this position, please Please Fax Resume to Pablo Vasquez A.B.S @ 212-244-5869 include recent salary history. Sample Sewer by Allen Schwartz Graphic Designer Busy Womens Blouse Company seeks a A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer Admin Since 1967 DESIGN Outerwear Co seeks Graphic Designer. Sample Sewer. Experience is necessary. W-I-N-S-T-O-N ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Proficient in MAC, Adobe Illustrator/ Fax resume Attn: Jenny casual lifestyle clothing, has an incredible opportunity for an Photoshop graphic design with 212-921-8369 aggressive, self-motivated Account Executive to join our Leading private label company seeks comprehensive sketching ability. Must APPAREL STAFFING an organized team player with strong DESIGN * SALES * MERCH responsible team player that is creative, sportswear sales team in New York. Established relation- computer skills. Photoshop & Illustrator organized, detail/deadline oriented, ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION amust.Individual must be creative ships with better contemporary/designer and Interna- (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 works well under pressure. Fax Shipping Mgr. Domestic & able to multi-task in a fast growing Resume Attn: Christine 212-564-9507 tional specialty stores a must. environment. Room for advancement! Excellent Opportunity Please fax resume to: (212) 563-0128 Well Est’d Midtown Manhattan Denim Interviews will be held the week of August 29th, 2005. AMAZING FASHION CAREERS Wholesale Co. seeks a Shipping Manager Excellent benefits, salary and commission. Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Leading Dress Co. w/New Contemporary managing client/vendor transactions uti- All replies kept confidential. Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Division has the following openings: lizing Quick Books. Will control inventory Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) and provide general administrative Email: [email protected] DESIGNER •PATTERNMAKER (F/T): Excellent support. Great work enviornment. opportunity for for exp’d. patternmaker Excellent Salary & Benefits. Please *Excellent Opportunity* from Designer/Contemporary Market Excellent opportunity to design for a E-mail: [email protected] JR. ROAD REPS with at least 10 years exp. TOXIC FISH Sales Assistant ASSISTANT DESIGNER rapidly growing NY based Luxury Est’d, growing denim apparel mfr Experienced in eveningwear. Home Accessories Co, KIM SEYBERT! •SAMPLEMAKER (F/T): 2 Positions; Est’d UK label. New for USA. Jeans Excellent opportunity for a skilled related sptswr. collection. Factory direct. seeks sales asst w/ 1-2 yrs exp in Import experience a plus. assisting showroom sales executives. Computer literate. Organized, self starter. Weare seeking a creative, talented & Samplemaker w/min. 5 years exp. Great oppty for energetic Sales Pro. highly motivated apparel or accessory Must know EDI & data entry. Strong Please fax resume to: (212) 302-9325 •CUTTER (P/T): seeking Cutter to susana monaco Most areas open. Magic Booth PC7910-103 designer who thrives in a fast paced, Production Assistant Send resume/areas covered to Doc @ communication, organizational and hardworking environ. Candidate must work part-time w/Patternmaker in computer skills are required. Excellent sample room Minimum 5 years exp. Minimum 2 yrs. experience, proficient Fax: (212) 695-0999 or be organized, computer literate & have with Excel & Word, detail oriented & Email: [email protected] growth opportunity. Salary based on Assistant Designer exp. working w/ overseas factories on Please Fax resumes and/or references extremely organized. Responsibilities exp. Fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 all phases of devel. from artwork, to Renaldo at: 212-938-0290 include fabric & trim production Outerwear Co Seeking an exp Asst sampling, specs & approvals to follow Designer. Must be highly efficient in ordering & development. up. Perfect candidate will have impec- Patternmaker Fax resume to: (212) 398-1661 Lucchetto Jeans SALES EXECUTIVE Adobe Illustrator/Photoshop. Will have cable taste & exp working w/ Hi End SALES AGENTS WANTED afull range of design responsibilities. Garment Center Aggressive Women’s Apparel Co. that Majors & specialty stores. Some exp. first pattern from sketch sample Lucchetto Jeans, one of Italy’s most inno- specializes in European designed knit Production experience is a plus. Fax in embroidery design, Photoshop, and vative Jeans & Sportswear Lines, is Resume Att: Christine 212-564-9507 to final production sweaters, novelty tees and denim has CAD would be helpful. fax resume & salary req. to : SWEATER DESIGNER seeking Sales Agents for 5 regions. an exciting opportunity available in our joseph 212 971-9236 or e-mail Qualifying Agents will be invited to NY showroom. Must have 3-5 years exp. Weoffer the same highly competitive Branded womenswear company seeks Italy to see the new Sprint Summer compensation and benefit package as [email protected] with contacts in major/specialty stores. designer for new hip sweater division. Collection. Please write to us at: Salary, incentives and/or commission. CUSTOMER SERVICE amajor apparel firm, but in the friendly Must have contemporary taste level. Lucchetto S.p.A. Mid-Sized Westchester Mfr has an im- environ. of the home accessories world. Patternmaker Fax resume Attn: Ronen Min 2 yrs import experience and be able Via Monte Napoleone, Numero 5 (954) 965-4443 mediate opening in our CS Dept. Must Qualified candidates, please email or Leading Designer house seeks exp’d to handle sweater development from Milano, 20121 Italy have min of 3-5 years experience & be fax your resume & salary requirements patternmaker w/ outstanding draping design to production. Must be techni- Or E-mail: [email protected] computer literate. Perfect location for to: [email protected] or 212 695 8803 skills, must be skilled in jkt. and cally knowledgable in yarn qualities & Westchester resident. Email resume: dresses, min 5 yrs. Exp in bridge & knitting stitches. Resume will not be Sales Executive [email protected] designer market. Fax 212-840-0205 considered without sketches. Please Growing Sportswear Co. seeking highly E-mail [email protected] fax resume and examples of your best motivated, aggressive sales executives. contemporary /designer sketches to: Men’s Sales Division Min 5 yrs exp. Strong market contacts. DESIGN DESIGNER Patternmaker to $65K. Strong current Fax: 212-302-3318 Senior Level Account Manager Existing relationships w/ chain stores exp. in first patterns of womens woven and dept stores required. ASSISTANT DESIGNER JUNIOR JEANS bottoms. Must hang w/ Diesel, Banana Min. 2 years Major Store Sales Expr. Fax resume to: (917) 591-1435 or Established, fast-paced private label co. Hot Junior Jeans Company seeks a Proven Track Record of Profit and E-mail to: [email protected] seeks a talented and highly motivated talented designer who is experienced Republic, Calvin Klein, Lucky, etc. Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Business Goals. Detail Oriented, entry level individual with a degree in in denim & finishing. Knowledge of TECHNICAL DESIGNER Self-Motivated, Team Player. Fashion Design. Must be proficient in Illustrator & Excel to develop tech pacs PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jr. Sweater Mfr. seeks a Tech Designer Retail Math and Planning Skills. Illustrator & Photoshop and be able to necessary. Must be organized to work Import Sweater Co seeks exp’d., organ- w/ability to make line sheets and tech Proficient in Excel and Word. flat sketch and illustrate. in a fun but demanding environment. ized, computer literate, detail oriented packs, including all specs. Proficiency Some Travel Required. Please fax resume attn: MAS Please fax resumes to: 212-764-9186 or person able to multi task. in Photoshop and Illustrator a must. Contact By Fax Only (212) 302-1856 email: [email protected] Fax resume to: 212-764-1825 Please Fax resume to: 212-768-7752 MSD (212) 575-4717 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 2005 19 WWD.COM fied monetary damages, according to the court documents. Lands’ End declined to comment, citing a longstanding company policy concern- Antik Denim Files Suit ing litigation. Meanwhile, Lucky Brand Dungarees Inc. and its parent company, Liz Claiborne Inc., re- cently filed a trademark infringement lawsuit Defending Trademark NEW YORK — The dog days of summer might be against Ally Apparel Resources LLC, which drawing to a close, but a heap of trademark and does business as: Get Lucky, Key Apparel By Khanh T.L. Tran by Blue Holdings Inc. in Comm- shareholder lawsuits will keep the courts busy Resources Ltd., Marcel Fashion Group Inc. and erce, Calif., said there is a pletho- this fall. Ezra Mizrachi. According to the court docu- LOS ANGELES — Antik Denim ra of products on the market A shareholder lawsuit was filed on behalf of ment, the defendants allegedly manufactured has filed a lawsuit against Alloy copying Antik’s goods. “They’re Avon Products Inc. against the company’s offi- and sold jeanswear and sportswear under the Inc. and Turn On Products Inc. close enough that they would cers and directors for actions that allegedly Get Lucky trademark. for alleged trademark and copy- cause confusion to the consumer,” hurt the company’s financial standing and its The documents alleged, “Ally’s Get Lucky right infringement in an attempt she said. “It is our attempt to pro- reputation. Robert L. Garber filed a complaint jeanswear and sportswear products have caused to prevent companies from du- tect our intellectual property.” in Manhattan federal court against the beauty consumer confusion as to its source and are plicating the intricate embroi- Antik said that earlier this firm’s management, alleging breach of fiduciary likely to cause greater consumer confusion in dery adorning its popular line of year it received a U.S. copyright duties, abuse of control, gross mismanagement, the future.” expensive jeans. registration and filed an appli- waste of corporate assets and unjust enrich- Lucky Brand Dungarees and Liz Claiborne The suit, filed on Monday in cation with the U.S. Patent and ment. The complaint, filed Aug. 18, alleges that have asked for a preliminary and permanent in- the U.S. District Court here, al- Trademark Office and other for- Avon’s officers and directors conspired to con- junction against the defendants, as well as for leges that Turn On Products, eign patent registries for a de- ceal the company’s misrepresentation of its unspecified damages. The parties being sued in which is doing business as sign patent covering its design. true financial results, particularly in its over- the case either declined to comment or could Younique Clothing, produced a It filed the lawsuit after sending seas businesses. not be reached. denim skirt featuring a back a cease-and-desist letter in July This case follows two other similar share- Last week, Cartier, a division of Richemont pocket design that was “substan- to Turn On and Alloy, both of holder lawsuits filed earlier this month that North America, and Cartier International B.V. tially identical” to a design that which are located in New York. sought class-action status. All three lawsuits al- filed lawsuits against two unrelated parties for Antik had created. Antik said An Alloy spokeswoman said lege that Avon deceived investors by issuing pos- adding diamonds to genuine watches. that Turn On Products had ad- she was unaware of the lawsuit itive statements about its performance earlier One lawsuit, filed against Bertone Group and vertised and sold the skirt in a and declined to comment. Turn this year, despite awareness that there was re- Jackie Bertone, alleged five counts including catalogue published by Alloy. On Products didn’t return a call sistance to its expansion efforts abroad and that trademark infringement and false designation of The lawsuit highlights the for comment. revenue growth in Central and Eastern Europe origin. In response to the lawsuit, Jackie raised stakes in the aggressive Antik requested a prelimi- was lower than forecast. Avon did not return a Bertone said he found the case “ridiculous.” denim market. Antik said that nary injunction to stop Turn On call seeking comment. Bertone, who runs an automotive leasing com- since December 2004 it sold and Products and Alloy from manu- Parties named in the most recent complaint pany, said he is not a jeweler and has only of- booked orders for more than facturing and marketing the include: Andrea Jung, chairman of the board fered one Cartier watch for sale online. 200,000 garments worth about clothing and using the design. It and chief executive officer; Susan J. Kropf, pres- The other lawsuit was filed against SK $25 million. also requested Turn On ident and chief operating officer, and Robert J. Trading Company LLC and alleged six counts, Deborah Greaves, general Products and Alloy to pay dam- Corti, executive vice president and chief finan- including trademark infringement, false desig- counsel for Antik Denim, owned ages of more than $250,000. cial officer. Company directors named in the nation of origin and federal dilution. lawsuit were: Fred Hassan, Ann S. Moore, The complaint alleged that the company Edward T. Fogarty, Maria E. Lagomasino, W. Don added diamonds to stainless steel Cartier watch- Cornwell, Stanley C. Gault and Paula Stern. es in imitation of more expensive watch brands. Marc Lelandais Joins S.T. Dupont One of the earlier shareholder lawsuits also SK Trading Co. was unavailable to comment by named Jung, Kropf and Corti as parties, but did press time. PARIS — S.T. Dupont said Wednesday that Marc Lelandais would not include the board. There has been a spate of cases this summer become president of its management board, effective Sept. 9. In other legal news, Ripley Entertainment about altering genuine Cartier products making Lelandais, 39, joins the Paris-based maker of luxury lighters, Inc. filed a trademark infringement, trademark their way through the courts. Cartier contends pens, men’s wear and accessories from Escada, where he was gener- dilution and unfair competition lawsuit in July that adding diamonds to its watches has a detri- al manager of accessories and licenses. against Lands’ End Inc. for the clothing retail- mental effect on the image of its brand, and has Lelandais succeeds William Christie, whose position was termi- er’s alleged use of the company’s “Believe it or vowed to continue its efforts to fight unautho- nated. An S.T. Dupont spokesman declined to elaborate. not!” trademark on the cover of a catalogue. rized alterations of its products, according to a Anticipation of a management change may have contributed to a 17 The lawsuit asked for a permanent injunc- statement from Frederic de Narp, president and percent spike in S.T. Dupont shares on the Paris Bourse on Tuesday, tion against Lands’ End’s use of the phrase. ceo of Cartier North America. which compelled the company to suspend trading. The spokesman Ripley Entertainment also asked for unspeci- — Liza Casabona said speculation about an acquisition or share buyback might also have goosed the stock. Normal trading is expected to resume today. Spring into the FAST Lane.

WWDFAST Coated Stock Magazine: October 20 Close: September 15 PHOTO BY ALEX FREUND PHOTO BY

WWD editors will look at what’s hot for Spring 2006 in sportswear and denim. Offering authoritative industry information from editors around the world, WWDFast gives you the inside scoop. From contemporary, juniors’, street and denim to surf, skate, active, retail and textiles, WWDFast brings you hard market substance you can’t find anywhere else.

For more information, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher (New York), at 212-630-4636; Deborah Levy, senior account manager (West Coast), at 323-951-1803; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director (Paris), at +33-1-44-51-13-03, or Elena DeGiuli, account executive (Milan), at +39-02-7600-3926. WWDMediaWorldwide®