FEATURING... AMAZING SURFING LOCATIONS: GEOCACHING SCOTLAND TRAIN TRIUMPH 18 IN THE MOVIES PLUS FAMILY TRIPS

2018 SCOTLAND’S HOSTELLING CHARITY HELPING YOU DISCOVER THE REAL SCOTLAND

CITY WALKS TAKE IT EASY AND SOAK UP THE CULTURE WHERE TO NEXT? EXPLORE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

WWW.HOSTELLINGSCOTLAND.ORG.UK

WELCOME Three to try VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Welcome to the 2018 issue of Scottish Hosteller Magazine, packed full of great articles to help you to get the best out of your time in Scotland. GET ACTIVE There’s running (p15) but not as you know it, we Canicross p15 pull on our snowshoes (p24) as a great alternative winter activity and head off the beaten track (p22) to check out some lesser- known Munros. Slow down and connect with nature (p49) or discover the best way to take in the sights of our towns and cities (p62). Hint, it’s not by car! Our hostel managers share their top tips for eating like a local (p69) and hidden gems (p37) to help EXPLORE Geocaching p28 you explore somewhere new. For families, there’s treasure hunting with a twist (p28) while mum of two, Kirsty, gives us a first-hand look at hostelling with

little ones in tow. Don’t forget you can Hostelling Scotland is a self-funding charity. SEE HOW Since 1931 it’s been our mission to make more stay-up-to date with all the latest of Scotland more accessible to more people than anyone else. We do this by providing great hostelling news by signing up to value, welcoming accommodation in the best our monthly e-newsletter via our locations across the nation. GREEN Committed to our charitable objectives, we website. enable young people and families, who WE ARE otherwise wouldn’t have the opportunity, the LEARN chance to experience Scotland and develop PAGE 44 their skills for life, learning and work. Natural remedies p49 Amy Pierzchalo, editor ‘We’re so much more than just a bed for the night’ 2018 IN THIS ISSUE

04 Upfront family hostelling. Explore take the strain and walk 73 Our affiliates The latest news for the road less travelled and our cities Hostelling Scotland’s hostellers in Scotland discover the west coast network of affiliate 66 Food and drink hostels around the 15 Get active 44 Learn Hostellers share some country Anyone for walkies? We We tell you about our recipes and why we hit the beach, climb some green credentials, love local produce. Plus: 74 Let’s be social Munros and pull on our explain how to read the new whisky distilleries We reveal the winners of snowshoes landscape, take time out on the rise last year’s photography and watch the skies competition, plus share 28 Explore 70 Further afield your pictures using We go on a treasure hunt 54 Culture Focus on hostels in #hostellingscotland with a difference, uncover Scotland’s movie Ireland, Slovenia, Belgium, Aberdeen and take the locations, let the train Australia and Finland

JOIN US! Hostelling is a great way to explore Scotland. Where will your membership take you? Join Hostelling Scotland and enjoy access to more than 4,000 youth hostels in 90 countries worldwide. Visit www.hostellingscotland.org.uk or telephone 0345 293 7373.

Scottish Youth Hostels Association (also known as SYHA or Hostelling Scotland) is a registered Scottish charity No.SC013138 and a company limited by guarantee, 2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 3 registered in Scotland, No. SC310841. Registered Office 7 Glebe Crescent, Stirling, FK8 2JA. UPFRONT NEW AND NOTABLE EVENTS FOR HOSTELLERS IN SCOTLAND

MEMBERSHIP A MEMBERSHIP TO BE PROUD OF!

Discover the real Scotland with us and feel As if this wasn’t enough, membership of good every time you stay! Hostelling Scotland gives you access to over As a member of Hostelling Scotland you not 4,000 hostels around the world with dual only gain access to a network of hostels in membership of Hostelling International and some of the finest locations in Scotland, but you’ll also save money on a host of visitor you can also feel good knowing that you’ve attractions, retail outlets and travel services helped us in the delivery of our charitable across Scotland. objectives giving young people, who PRICES FROM otherwise wouldn’t have the opportunity the chance to experience Scotland and develop Visit www.hostellingscotland.org.uk £6 their skills for life, learning and work. for more details.

HOSTELLING SCOTLAND CHIEF EXECUTIVE

The most beautiful Margo Paterson,

country in the world! Chief Executive Officer

2017 has been another It only goes to show that we future in an increasingly partners we are planning successful year thanks to the really do offer great value, competitive market. exciting youth engagement support of our members, flexible accommodation in the Extensive improvements projects, inspiring the next guests and our dedicated best locations across Scotland! and upgrades to our Aberdeen generation of hostellers. teams who continue to And Scotland’s popularity Youth Hostel, the beginning Since 1931 it’s been our ensure that everyone who can certainly be seen in our of a major redevelopment mission to make more of stays with us has the best visitor numbers, with an project at Glen Nevis and the Scotland accessible to more possible experience. additional 14,000 guests development of the Hostelling people than anyone else, and Scotland hit the headlines in staying with us compared to Scotland brand reflect our this remains true today. 2017 when it was voted “The the same period last year. long-term commitment to I hope you enjoy this issue most beautiful country in the 2017 was also a year of modernisation across the of Scottish Hosteller and that world” by readers of The change. In June we said a fond network and to raising the it inspires you to visit our Rough Guide. In a recent poll, farewell to friend and profile of hostelling in hostels where a warm their readers voted on colleague Keith Legge whose Scotland. welcome awaits you. Thank Scotland’s top places to visit passion and dedication has 2018 is the Year of Young you for your support and - and I’m pleased to say we given the organisation a People in Scotland and we look forward to seeing have a youth hostel in them all. strong foundation for the working with a wide range of you soon.

4 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 UPFRONT

NEW BRANDING NEW LOOK. NEW NAME. RENEWED VISION

Since 1931, SYHA has welcomed visitors from years as we have been in the first. all over the world, providing affordable, As a result, we’re making some important welcoming accommodation in some of the changes and we can’t wait to share them with best locations in the country. you. Powered by our members, focused on our visitors and mindful of our communities, we’re What’s in a name? committed to helping everyone to discover the For simplicity and clarity, we’ll be known as real Scotland. Hostelling Scotland. Designed to be even more Looking to 2031 and beyond, we’ve welcoming, and intended as an invitation to get completed a thorough review of our brand, to involved (hostelling is a doing word, after all) it make sure we’re as relevant in the next 100 leaves the viewer in no doubt as to what to do, and where to do it.

Blue sky thinking You’ll notice the change to our colour. Unmistakably Scottish, we’ve adopted the unique hue of the Saltire as our corporate blue.

Little changes, big improvements Bear with us. Part of our overall modernisation you’ll soon see our new brand look in communications, signage, uniforms, merchandise and a new website.

‘OUR PLACE IS YOURS’ MILLBURN ACADEMY ENSURES A WARM WELCOME TO INVERNESS YOUTH HOSTEL

Third-year Millburn Academy further develop the excellent students were involved in a live relationship we have enjoyed brief to submit a design for a with Inverness Youth Hostel. The painted mural that would not live process of designing and only welcome hostellers from all formally presenting their ideas over the world but also convey has provided pupils with an something of the identity of the excellent opportunity not only to local area. Forty-four pupils aged enhance their creative skills but 13 to 15 were involved in also their communication and submitting designs, giving them presentation skills. essential experience of the The team from the Inverness world of work. Dulux Centre kindly donated Gavin Maclean, Rector of all the paint for the mural Millburn Academy, said: “This project and Hostelling Scotland 15 year-old Milburn Academy Pupil Reanne MacRae won the school’s live project session Millburn Academy has are very grateful for this to design a large mural for Hostelling Scotland’s Inverness Youth Hostel, situated welcomed the opportunity to fantastic support. next door to the school

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 5 UPFRONT

GLEN NEVIS REFURB

BUILDING HOSTELLING FOR THE FUTURE

A major redevelopment programme at Glen members and guests, understanding their restructuring of the youth hostel. The new Nevis Youth Hostel, which began in October needs and developing our network to offer design created an improved and more 2017, will transform the current hostel into a them the best possible hostelling spacious hostel with additional public rooms, contemporary environment offering terrific experience.” improved washrooms and smaller shared value for money and flexible accommodation The redevelopment project couldn’t have rooms, allowing Glen Nevis to be fully with a mix of private en-suite rooms and come at a better time, as the iconic Scottish prepared for the high demand for year-round shared accommodation. Guests at the youth hostel turns 80 in July. Built in 1938 to accommodation in the area. popular destination will also benefit from a replace the building destroyed by fire two Fast forward to 2018 and, alongside the modern, well-appointed self-catering years earlier, Glen Nevis has seen many recent upgrades to Aberdeen Youth Hostel, kitchen and welcoming open plan living changes over the past eight decades. Similar the Glen Nevis project reflects Hostelling spaces with panoramic views over the to Glencoe and Glenbrittle, the heavy Scotland’s continual commitment to the spectacular Nevis mountain range. Norwegian timber building was pre- modernisation of our network. One thing Chief Executive Margo Paterson said: “I’m fabricated in Oslo before being re-erected on that hasn’t changed since Glen Nevis first delighted that the project is now under way brick foundations by an Edinburgh firm. opened its doors 80 years ago – we pride and we’re looking forward to seeing the new Improvements to the building over the ourselves in offering expert local knowledge youth hostel take shape over the coming years have included an extension to the and a warm welcome to all those with an months. We pride ourselves on offering self-catering kitchen and drying room in adventurous spirit who wish to experience excellent customer service, listening to our 1963 and in 1980 a major renovation and the real Scotland.

MEMBERS GROUP MAKE NEW HOSTELLING FRIENDS WITH RED TRIANGLE Red Triangle, the Hostelling enjoyed walking and a trip to the Members of the Red Triangle group meet up Scotland Members Group, theatre. During another visit to throughout the year meets up through a programme Lochranza, one intrepid member of hostel visits throughout the travelled to Port Charlotte on year. Daytime activities vary Islay and back again via Oban Membership is free INTERESTED? according to individual or group – all by public transport! Two to Hostelling Scotland IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO interests, followed by social “milestone” birthdays were members, the only LEARN MORE ABOUT RED evenings together. Plans for celebrated this year, and requirement being an TRIANGLE ACTIVE, PLEASE activities are kept flexible these were celebrated with e-mail address or six CONTACT JANE AT according to the location birthday cake during one of stamped addressed [email protected] OR JUDY AT JUDY.ROXBURGH@ and weather. the hostel visits. envelopes to receive The 2017 programme included Plans for 2018 include the information about YAHOO.CO.UK OR BY POST Inverness, Newton Stewart (for annual dinner in Edinburgh, coming events. New TO RED TRIANGLE, the walking festival) and Cairngorm Lodge, Port members would be 7 GLEBE CRESCENT,

Pitlochry where the group Charlotte, Aviemore and Stirling. very welcome. STIRLING, FK8 2JA

6 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 ADVERTISING FEATURE

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Airlink is an express service to and from the city centre, running 24 hours a day, 365 THE RIDE days a year with buses departing up to Travelling on a budget? Never fear, every 10 minutes. Airlink 100 accepts contactless payments allowing customers a Lothian has a ticket to suit your wallet quick and convenient payment option. All major payment cards can be used as well as here Edinburgh may once have untouched coastline and fantastic beaches Apple pay and Android pay. Skylink services suffered with a reputation for along the coast at Gullane, Belhaven, offer local connections to North Edinburgh Wbeing on the pricey side to visit, Longniddry and more, East Coast Buses let and West Edinburgh respectively, with the vast network of buses on offer now you travel, explore and discover East ample storage space for luggage, USB provide a great value, modern, Lothian for the similar great value as charging points and free Wi-Fi. reliable public transport network getting around the city centre. which makes getting around the Spot the Bass Rock’s resident SEE THE SIGHTS capital city and even further gannets from the shore (or To see Scotland’s capital city from a different afield very easy – both even take a boat trip to get that angle, take an open top bus tour with physically, and on the purse bit closer), walk part of the Edinburgh Bus Tours. The five-star rated, strings! As the main bus legendary John Muir Way or hop-on hop-off tours showcase the best of operator in Edinburgh, Lothian is EastCoastbuses climb Berwick Law for unrivalled Edinburgh, with a choice of multi-lingual dedicated to delivering an views of the area. In addition to the commentary or a specially trained live guide. outstanding customer experience scenery, the region offers a wide Choose from three tours that run offering a city-wide network with regular choice of attractions, such as the throughout the year: Edinburgh travel 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Scottish Seabird Centre, Edinburgh Bus Tours Tour, Majestic Tour or City Belhaven Brewery and the have open tops Sightseeing or purchase a CITY CENTRE National Museum of Flight. Grand Ticket to use all three Tickets for all services are available directly Days out can also be spent tours and see the whole from drivers, at a Lothian city centre shopping for unique city. Sights include Travelshop or as m-tickets via a handy free souvenirs in the local Edinburgh Castle, Palace mobile travel app which can also help you to boutiques of North Berwick, of Holyroodhouse, The navigate the city and find out when the next or enjoying a day at the races Royal Yacht Britannia and bus is due. Enjoy unlimited travel on board at Musselburgh Racecourse. the Royal Botanic Garden Lothian services in the city fare zone with a Depart from Edinburgh and Edinburgh. For information visit DAYticket or DAY&NIGHT ticket if you plan to explore the whole of East Lothian on www.edinburghtour.com or pop travel after 1800 hours. Just remember, bus a countyPLUS day ticket for just £7.50. into Waverley Bridge Travelshop. drivers can’t give change so it’s always a good idea to have the exact fare ready. FLYING HIGH For further information and to plan your Serving Edinburgh Airport, Lothian have journey across all Lothian services, please visit EAST LOTHIAN three regular routes to and from the city. www.lothianbuses.co.uk Connecting Edinburgh with miles of Airlink 100, Skylink 200 and Skylink 300.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 7

7 SYHA Scottish Hosteller 2018 – Lothian Buses.indd 7 08/02/2018 11:05 UPFRONT

BOOK GIVEAWAY IN MEMORY IN BRIEF In praise of bridges Jim Martin ANNUAL GENERAL We have one copy of Bridgescapes: A personal journey through Hostelling Scotland is sorry to history celebrating Scotland’s bridge-building heritage by advise on the passing of our MEETING 2018 L. Bruce Keith to give away. A celebration of the long and friend and colleague Jim Martin. Notice is hereby given that illustrious history of bridges within Scotland, Keith’s personal and A keen supporter, Jim was the Annual General Meeting professional journey is delightfully woven throughout the text with the Association for more of the Scottish Youth and photographs. than 40 years, first as a Hostels Association will To enter, please email your name and address to volunteer from the 1950s and take place at Edinburgh [email protected]. The deadline for later as a permanent official Central Youth Hostel on entries is 31 October 2018 and the winner will be contacted from 1965, holding the seat of Saturday 16 June 2018. within 28 days. There is no cash alternative and the prize is not General Secretary between Registration forms are transferable. Details 1981 and 1995. included in the enclosed submitted to Hostelling Jim attended many ballot form or register online Scotland will only be international conferences in his at www.hostellingscotland. used for the purpose role as General Secretary and org.uk. Additional of contacting the was held in high regard by his registration forms can be winner. If you would colleagues across the globe. requested on 01786 like to receive our His passion for the 891400. All registration monthly enewsletter organisation will be sadly forms must be received at you can find our missed. National Office, 7 Glebe sign-up form on our Crescent, Stirling, FK8 2JA website. by Friday 25 May 2018.

SIR ROGER’S BENCH “IT IS OUR FERVENT HOPE THAT MANY CLIMBERS AND WALKERS WILL BE ABLE TO SPEND SOME TIME ENJOYING THE VIEW AT LOCH OSSIAN YOUTH HOSTEL FROM SIR ROGER’S BENCH, REFLECTING ON WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT THE GREAT OUTDOORS” BOARD During November of last year, several keen hillwalker, he was also a photographer ELECTIONS colleagues and family members dedicated a and spent many hours enjoying the view from 2018 bench at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel to the the hostel towards Ben Alder. He once memory of Sir Roger Young, who passed announced that this view was one of the Hostelling Scotland away in early 2017. finest in Scotland – and who could disagree. Members are now invited to The former Headmaster and Principal of Sir Roger’s firm belief was that although the cast their votes for the George Watson’s College from 1958 to 1985 outdoor world was so different from the Election of Board Members. left a great legacy to the school with the classroom, it was just as important in terms of Four nominations have innovation of Third Form Projects – a fortnight learning. He wanted to introduce his pupils to been received for three of residential outdoor education in May each the great outdoors, and enable them to available places. Nominee year in remote locations across Scotland. experience the rich inheritance of their own biographies are included in Loch Ossian was one such location and one country. the enclosed ballot form of Sir Roger’s favourites. As well as a very Liz Smith MSP which should be completed, sealed and posted. Alternatively, Members can cast their votes using the electronic voting available on our website, www.hostellingscotland. org.uk. All votes must be received no later than Monday 30 April 2018. Further information on all candidates can also be found The bench is in a beautiful spot. Inset: some family and on our website. friends using the bench Photographs: Rhona Little Photographs:

8 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018

Volunteers from ScottishPower helping out at Rowardennan Lodge GIVING BACK Hostelling Scotland welcomes volunteers of all ages and backgrounds for short projects or longer-term placements. Read on to find out what our recent volunteers have been up to

hroughout the summer season Overseas placements The volunteers are placed in three or four we are supported by seasonal Thirteen young people from German different locations to help them gain a wide volunteer youth hostel volunteer placement organisations Sozialer range of experiences. assistants who give up their Friedensdienst (SFD) and Internationaler German volunteer Marina said: “So far Ttime to support Hostelling Bund Volunteers Abroad Programmes four months of my volunteer year are over Scotland. Volunteers join us for a variety of (IB VAP) and Internationale and I’m still enjoying it. I’ve volunteered in reasons, from gaining work experience and Jugendgemeinschaftsdienste (IJGD) are three hostels. One of them was increasing self-confidence to being able to currently spending a year with Hostelling Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel – a great explore Scotland and meet new people. Scotland helping out across the organisation. experience to live and work in such an In fact, in their end of season survey, During their time in Scotland, the group will amazing place. In all the hostels I’ve had 94 per cent of volunteers said they had be gaining valuable new skills and work many nice conversations with staff the opportunity to experience the Scottish experience while developing their confidence members and guests. On my days off I countryside, environment and natural with the English language. explored some places around Loch heritage during their time with us. Lomond and walked sections of the One volunteer said, “I really West Highland Way enjoying beautiful enjoyed the whole experience, ScottishPower volunteers views over the landscape!” take a well-earned rest but if I have to say what I liked We were also joined by two college the most I think I would say students from the Netherlands learning useful skills and undertaking a 20-week placement discovering a different country at Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel as and way of living in such a part of their course which covers friendly environment.” Hospitality and Tourism. From the

10 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 VOLUNTEERING

Some of the young volunteers from Europe

The Duke of Edinburgh volunteers painted a mural at Stirling Youth Hostel (and right)

“I AM ENJOYING IT – A GREAT EXPERIENCE TO LIVE AND WORK IN SUCH AN AMAZING PLACE” placement they are able to gain valuable for “rhoddy bashing” – helping to tackle the based on local landmark, The National work experience, sample living and working spread of the non-native rhododendron which Wallace Monument. The artwork also in another country and build on their English can have a detrimental effect on native features the very popular Highland cows language skills. habitats – at Rowardennan Lodge along with that regularly graze below Stirling Castle. cutting back overgrown hedges. The week was a great success with one of ScottishPower the participants saying that they most We welcomed three groups of volunteers Duke of Edinburgh Gold Residential enjoyed “making new friends, learning new from ScottishPower in September and We ran a pilot Gold Duke of Edinburgh skills and getting to paint.” October 2017. The volunteering residential for young people at Stirling This year, we will be running more Gold opportunities allow ScottishPower to help Youth Hostel. The group had the Duke of Edinburgh residentials as part of locally based charities and, on this occasion, opportunity to meet other young people our activities for the Year of Young People Hostelling Scotland was supported to help from across Scotland, gain hostel based 2018. spruce up their youth hostels. work experience, make-over the hostel Ten ScottishPower apprentices lounge, undertake a leadership course volunteered between Stirling and Newton delivered by the Duke of Edinburgh Award, Stewart Youth Hostels repainting benches, and undertake conservation volunteering INTERESTED IN windows, doors and gates while eight in the local community kindly supported by VOLUNTEERING? ScottishPower employees showed off their The Conservation Volunteers (TCV) all as If you are interested in any of our green-fingered skills in Stirling by pruning, part of their Gold Residential section. volunteering programmes and opportunities please email Lois Marshall, Youth and Volunteer weeding and repainting lamp posts to The group did a fantastic job of making Engagement Manager on yvemanager@ smarten up outside areas. over the lounge area at Stirling Youth hostellingscotland.org.uk for more information Eight Scottish Power graduates volunteered Hostel by creating a welcoming mural

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 11 YOUTH PROGRAMMES

YOUNG AT HEART Hostelling Scotland is proud of its work with young people

ur youth programmes aim to their full potential and build self-confidence. YOUTH ACTIVE GRANTS support disadvantaged young “GUAB was life-changing for our young Youth Active Grants have been very Opeople and help them realise their people, who were in need of respite from their successful during 2017, with 162 young full potential. The programmes aim to give everyday situations. GUAB provided that and people participating in Youth Active Grant disadvantaged young people the chance to so much more. The young people got to supported trips to seven different youth explore and experience Scotland. Throughout experience the Scottish countryside and all it hostels. 2017 we supported 319 young people to take has to offer. They gained skills, experiences Youth Active Grant funding supported part in one of our youth programmes. and memories that will last a lifetime.” – Youth charity Stride to take young people from Horizons, West Dumbartonshire. deprived and isolated African families in the GUAB Dundee area on a trip to help them build their Give us a Break (GUAB), funded by the IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE GANNOCHY TRUST confidence and experience the natural Provident Good Neighbour programme, The Gannochy Youth Programme focuses on environment. The group stayed at Aviemore supported 137 young people from ten encouraging disadvantaged young people Youth Hostel in May with eight young people. youth groups across Scotland to broaden from Perthshire and Tayside to experience the Derwent Vale Primary School took part in their horizons, try a range of outdoor local countryside while inspiring them on a a trip to Glasgow Youth Hostel in June activities and explore Scotland with a trip path of achievement for the future. Last year, supported by a Youth Active Grant. Their to Rowardennan Lodge, Cairngorm Lodge through support from The Gannochy Trust, teacher said “Many of our children do not or Oban Youth Hostels. GUAB trips are 20 young people from Crieff High School were venture more than five miles outside their designed to help young people affected by able to take part in a two-night outdoor local community. They have not experienced deprivation and social exclusion to realise education residential youth programme. the sights, architecture, colour and culture of

high-quality residential learning outcomes and impact for the Brilliant Residential programmes which they young people, teachers and Campaign throughout 2018. Teamwork promote through their Brilliant schools of residential As part of our support we will Residentials Campaign. experiences, be linking the new Hostelling Learning Away and Learning Away has as well as some of Scotland Explorer Fund to the Brilliant Residentials tested, gathered the barriers to young Brilliant Residential criteria. In 2017 Hostelling Scotland and documented people accessing became a Scottish the key criteria residential Scot spirit Representative on the required for experiences. Hostelling Scotland was proud Learning Away Consortium. delivering high impact Hostelling Scotland to support 15 disadvantaged A key aim of Learning Away is residentials, providing will continue working families from across Scotland to support schools and compelling evidence to support the aims of to have a two-night break in residential providers to design of the positive the Consortium and one of our youth hostels in

12 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 Young people at Rowerdennan Lodge YOUTH PROGRAMMES

Ocean Defenders in Ullapool

city life. Most will never have visited a STEM YEAR OF YOUNG PEOPLE museum, driven on the motorway or stayed Pupils from James Hamilton Academy away from home. The benefits to all our in Ayrshire completed a ‘STEM in the 2018 is pupils who participate in the residential are Outdoors’ residential trip to Rowardennan Scotland’s immense and lifelong memories are made.” Lodge Youth Hostel. On the trip pupils were Year of Young Twelve young Ocean Defenders from able to get involved in the design and People – a celebration of Sunnyside Primary in Glasgow were construction of model wind turbine and the talents and supported to go on a four night trip to hydro devices and test them outside achievements Ullapool Youth Hostel during September. in real-world situations. of the nation’s Sunnyside primary sits within one of most young people deprived areas of Scotland. The grant that aims to provide more opportunities for them to take part in positive activities and experiences NEW FOR 2018! supported pupils to broaden their while providing a platform for them to have their experiences by helping to fund a To find our about our new Hostelling Scotland views heard and acted upon. conservation trip to Ullapool where they Explorer Fund (replacing Youth Active Grants) Throughout 2018 we will be developing our please see our website or email engagement with young people along with a worked with the local Primary School and [email protected]. If you other agencies on conservation, including range of exciting and valuable opportunities. We work with young people in a school, college or will be running a partnership project with Doors their #naestrawataw campaign which was youth group setting and have an idea for a Open Day in September to provide young people successful in stopping the use of plastic project with Hostelling Scotland then please get with an opportunity to explore behind the in touch to find out how we can work with your scenes of different buildings. We will also be straws by businesses in Ullapool and has organisation on future projects. since been featured in the national news! running an exciting project with New College Lanarkshire supporting HNC and HND College Travel and Tourism students to ‘take over’ a youth hostel for a week, taking on all the roles involved in running a successful youth hostel. 2017. The short breaks lifeline, not a luxury. We will purpose of Respitality is to We will be continuing our support of the Scot were enjoyed by families be looking to develop this give unpaid carers a little Spirit project with VisitScotland and Family Holiday Association, as well as developing a new who would otherwise be programme in 2018. break from their caring project to offer disadvantaged young people and unable to take a holiday responsibilities (respite) so their families the chance of a holiday. due to cost, ill-health or Respitality they can have some time As well as delivering our own projects we will caring responsibilities, as Two pilot respitality – for themselves to be supporting a wide variety of partners in the part of a ‘social tourism’ “respite” and “hospitality” ‘recharge’ their batteries. youth sector including LGBT Youth Scotland and Young Scot in delivering activities for the year, initiative run by - trips were offered at allowing us to expand our engagement with VisitScotland in Aberdeen Youth Hostel young people. partnership with The in 2017 in partnership Family Holiday Association with Shared Care – the association’s ethos Scotland and Angus is that holidays are a Carers Centre. The

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 13

GET ACTIVE

PAW POWER Neil Braidwood loves his dog, and now thanks to canicross, they have a bond that is stronger than ever

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 15 GET ACTIVE

Author Neil Braidwood with Ruby competing at Aviemore Photograph: Steve Glew/AdventureNess.co.uk Steve Photograph:

A canicross race in action

Members of Cani-Sports Edinburgh at

Ruff Dugger in the Scottish Borders Girvan Kenny Photograph: Ben Williams Photograph:

alking the dog is so “I WAS EXHILARATED AFTER OUR last year – running with your dog is SHORT CANICROSS RUN, AND where it’s at. Don’t RUBY LOOKED LIKE SHE COULD Wtake my word for it, DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN” witness the rise in popularity of the sport of canicross, or cross-country running while tethered to your dog. Originally developed in organisers were so friendly, and talked me helps to act as a shock absorber when your Scandinavia, when dog trainers needed to through the process of fitting the specialised dog is pulling you. exercise their sled dogs when there was no dog harness, which spreads the load evenly My Springer Spaniel Ruby is an ideal dog snow, the sport is widely recognised – with across the dog’s chest. There are many for canicrossing – she loves to pull, and with races all over Europe. The UK is catching on, different sizes and styles to suit all types of her harness on she was desperate to get and Scotland especially, with clubs springing dog, and it’s useful to try a few before you going. There were loads of different types of up all over the country. commit to buying. You can even have dogs there though, and Andy I am not a natural runner I will confess – it harnesses made to measure. The human never really interested me. I have always lived harness is similar to a climbing harness, in towns and cities, and the idea of running where there are loops for your legs along the street avoiding pedestrians just attached to a waist belt. The loops stop didn’t appeal. Also, as a man of a certain age, the belt from riding up when you are my knees couldn’t take it. running, and some belts are slung low I do have a dog though, and I was keen to across the bottom to help spread that find a way of tiring her out and gently raising pulling power. Again, it’s worth spending my fitness levels in the process. time trying a few to see what is best for I discovered canicross through a “come you. Lastly, the line that connects you and and try” session at my local club. The your dog is a long bungee style leash that

16 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 Photograph: Ben Williams Ben Photograph: GET ACTIVE

Canicross is suitable for Photograph: Ben Williams Photograph: all breeds of dog GETTING Ruff Dugger attracts INTO entrants from all over Scotland CANICROSS

You’ll need a dog, of course, and it should be over one year old. You should be moderately fit and able to run short distances – canicross runs are typically never over 5k. If you have never run before, it’s best to check with your doctor first and look at gradually building fitness before you embark on a canicross run. Hostelling Scotland has several dog-friendly hostels across the Highlands including Torridon, Lochranza, Glencoe and Cairngorm Lodge. There are loads of

Photograph: Kenny Girvan Kenny Photograph: different trails around these locations. See www.canicross-scotland.co.uk for some inspiration. Canifit is run as a business, with Kinnaird, one of the club committee some stretching to flex our muscles, we set plenty of well-organised classes to members, explained that the ethos of the off on our run. Ruby was confused at first, suit all abilities throughout the year. club is centred around having fun with your trotting alongside me, forcing me to take up One-to-one coaching is available too, dog, and no dog is excluded. So there were the slack on the bungee lead to stop me and all of the classes are held in the Labradoodles, Jack Russels, Vislas and tripping. Then she was out front, racing along west of Scotland. www.cani-fit.com Greyhounds to name a few. “We had a Great and chasing the other Highland Canicrossers are based in Dane once” said Andy, “and it was a struggle dogs and runners along the Inverness area; however, they do to find a harness to fit, but we managed it.” the trail. The power was have events all over the region. Canicross is great for nervous dogs too, as amazing, and I felt myself www.highlandcanicrossers.co.uk the process of running as a team can help to running faster than ever The Dundee and Angus Canicross calm them. before. My waist belt took meets at Camperdown Country Other essential kit – for the human at the strain and I never felt Park near Dundee. www. least – is a decent pair of trainers, preferably out of control. dundeecanicross.club designed for off-road, as it can get muddy on I was exhilarated after Ruffdugger is a fun, muddy, the trails. Leggings or shorts are useful too our short canicross run, and obstacle course run a couple depending on the weather. Clubs tend to run Ruby looked like she could of times a year by Canifit. You all year, but canicross is essentially a winter do it all over again. I knew don’t have to have a dog to sport, with the race calendar filling up then that this was compete, but it certainly helps! between November and March. In the something that I wanted to www.ruffdugger.co.uk summer, the humidity can be too high and do more of. Two years later, Hostelling Scotland’s Dogs it’s dangerous to run your dog, so most club I am on the club committee Welcome guidelines can be runs are done early in the morning or late and helping to organise found here http://bit.ly/ at night. weekly Saturday morning DogsWelcomeGuidelines We were ready to go, so after a quick runs. Perhaps I’ll see you at safety briefing from the organisers and one soon.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 17

GET ACTIVE

Will Beeslar of Staunch Industries shares his love of catching a wave All photographs: [email protected] All photographs: THE CALL OF THE SEA

oasting one of the largest coastlines Surfing has always been dominated by in Europe, Scotland is almost images of clear skies, hot yellow sun and Bcompletely surrounded by water, warm blue water but nothing could be more with an abundance of waves to share for all removed for the average Scottish surfer types of surfer whether you are a novice, dressed head to toe in thick black neoprene. intermediate, advanced or extreme expert. When searching for wind and swell patterns Being so far north and cold, Scotland can or chasing weather fronts for the ultimate come across as being relatively quiet but wave it can be a challenge just to get into the there are a thriving number of surf gear in open exposed areas – it’s not for the communities on every coastline. faint-hearted. The energy of the ocean

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 19 GET ACTIVE

Respect the locals… Just one of the many beautiful unspoilt places on the north shore

Pre-dawn Sunday service in the Thurso East line-up

often mimics our lives; flat and calm one day, Over the last couple of years, the north waves can come furious weather, rain, wind wild and furious the next. It’s about being coast has attracted a lot more attention with and cold sleet so it’s important to stay safe somewhere else and exploring, finding the the introduction of the North Coast 500 – a and know your limits. Always surf with a beauty that the outdoors has to offer in any fantastic “must do” road trip taking in some buddy, but if you do choose to surf alone, weather and sharing that knowledge and the of the most breath-taking scenic and ancient tell someone where you will be, and don’t go stories with others. landscapes in the UK. If you are on that road, out in difficult conditions. However, when The advance in the technology of wetsuits remember to stop and look out for the many you wake up to the sight of endless and boards, along with a subculture of hidden surfing gems along the way. corduroy lines to the horizon and you have ecological awareness has created a surge in the place to yourself (except maybe the the number of surfers taking to the coastal “THE ENERGY OF local sea otters), life just does not get much waters surrounding the UK. But finding a better than this. wave that has not been surfed is the ultimate THE OCEAN OFTEN Not to be outdone by the west, over in the dream in every surfer’s mind; that perfect MIMICS OUR LIVES; east and less than an hour’s drive from empty peak and to experience nature in all FLAT AND CALM Scotland’s capital Edinburgh you will find her beauty is the ultimate goal. Pease Bay, a quiet little bay that is arguably Far from the surfing heartlands of ONE DAY, WILD AND the home of east coast surfing. Cornwall, the north shore of Scotland lies FURIOUS THE NEXT” The sleepy little bay turns into a frantic hub dormant throughout the summer months, of surfer culture during the dark winter surf awakened only when the temperature drops Open to the raw power of the mighty months. This is due to freak forces of nature and the swells come roaring out of the Arctic. Atlantic Ocean and partially blocked by the – the land topography allows Pease Bay to This amazing stretch of coastline from Outer Hebrides, the west coast is known as generate a larger wave than anywhere else Durness in the west to John o’ Groats in the the land of opportunities among surfers. A on this part of the coast. You can find a wave east offers many an opportunity to create lot of time can be spent chasing after the working at all tides, and there are a couple of memorable moments. The air is fresh, the right swell or hitting the right beach at the peaks so you can always find a wave to ride, water is clean and there is almost no mobile right time, but it is certainly time well spent. even on a busy day. reception, making it great for escaping our Make no mistake; it’s not going to be easy Trekking further north along the east busy lives and returning to nature. as anything worth it rarely is. With the coast, places like Aberdeen, Fraserburgh and

20 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 GET ACTIVE

Right place, right time. Hunting out whisky coloured barrels on the north shore

STAY AWHILE Hostelling Scotland has hostels in key locations along A sunny day at Pease Bay in the Scotland’s coast offering Scottish Borders AVOID great self-catering facilities and laundry and drying COMMON rooms in most. MISTAKES STAY SAFE BY KNOWING YOUR LIMITS

Waiting for the next set and the perfect wave, Weather conditions: Check the water might be freezing but the banter guarantees to keep you warm the local weather forecast

Wave size: use the app Magicseaweed which tells the Moray Firth get boasting rights for The same rules apply everywhere – mind you what’s happening generating some of the finest surfers your manners, be humble, stay within your Scotland has ever produced. comfort zone, wait your turn, know your Currents and rips: Scotland’s islands have been attracting limits and only leave footprints. ask the locals more and more surfers over the past couple You don’t need to be a surfer to enjoy the of years, with many now calling the islands water, in the summertime the waters around Fitness level and home. If you get the opportunity to surf with Scotland turn into a mill pond teaming with experience: get some them, you will find them always smiling and life. That’s when it’s time to start free diving lessons if you’ve never very friendly. Be sure to show them the and exploring under the water. But that is surfed. same respect as you would anywhere else. another story… Equipment: you can rent equipment at various surf Staunch Industries distant North Sea beach, shops around the country. is an independent trust us, Staunch You’ll need a board and a active lifestyle brand Industries was created wetsuit (5mm minimum). and design consultancy; for you and we are proud we have our roots to share it with you. Other surfers: be mindful firmly placed on the bend looking for fish, of other people in the mountains, muddy hills daydreaming of climbing Get into Staunch water. This might also and rugged coastline mountains in the Industries and stay include kayakers. of Scotland. distance, blazing new connected. We believe it’s very trails on your ride to • staunchindustries.com Let somebody on land important to have a work, picking your line • www.facebook.com/ know where you have gone. healthy work-play for the perfect ski or StaunchIndustries balance, so whether you obsessively hunting out • www.instagram.com/ are tracking down a river waves on some cold staunch_industries/

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 21 GET ACTIVE ESCAPE ROUTE Lisa Trollope and Libby Kerr shed light on some of their favourite Munros you've never heard of

The tranquillity of Loch Mullardoch in Glen Cannich

hen you think of remote hills, These are the mountain sounds that become those that sit off the beaten Biking the approach associated with adventure. Wtrack miles from any surfaced makes things easier Scotland provides a unique landscape roads, you might think of rugged hills flanked where we can have a real adventure close to by long grasses, heather and wildlife – deer, home; we are able to roam free within this ptarmigan and eagles. These remote places wild and vast wilderness, rarely seeing are often associated with solitude, peace and another soul. The Letterewe wilderness is as tranquillity and, most of all, with silence. far as you can get from a paved road in These are hills largely untouched by humans. Scotland and hosts some magnificent They are bereft of pylons and there is no Munros such as Beinn Tarsuinn. A traverse of mobile phone signal. So they must be quiet the Fisherfield Munros is challenging; with places, that provide the time and space to most walkers breaking the round of five think and reflect, right? Munros (and one Corbett!) into sections to Not always! complete over two or three days. Ullapool The most remote hills are not always the in itself, a world away from our daily routine Youth Hostel is only a 30-minute drive away quiet places you’d expect; they can be loud and worries. The rushing of mountain from Dundonnel, the most common starting and all encompassing. They captivate your streams, whooshing of the wind and point for a walk into the Fisherfields. thoughts and they demand your full attention. squelching of footsteps in the soft ground. If you’re looking for a quiet escape then It is this noise and the way the mountains grab The rubbing of waterproof trousers, the Carn Bhac, close to Braemar Youth Hostel in your thoughts that is the attraction. This full clinking of walking poles on rock and the the Cairngorms National Park, is an often

All photographs: Jim Stanton All photographs: immersion in the outdoor world is meditative rustling of another cereal bar being opened. overlooked Munro. The long approach may

22 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 Be prepared for sudden weather changes GET ACTIVE

MAKE IT EASY ON YOURSELF

1. Make sure your navigation skills are up to scratch. Take a map of the area and a compass and you should know how to use them. The weather can change quickly in the hills and when the cloud comes down you can get disorientated very quickly.

2. Get on two wheels. A mountain bike can drastically reduce the time it takes to reach some of the more remote hills, especially those with long approaches. A bike with suspension will make the ride more pleasant but a lot of the tracks can be ridden on any bike with wide tyres and a sturdy frame. Cycling along estate tracks doesn’t require much mountain biking experience and it’s fun!

3. Check the weather forecast and carry the right kit. Pack for the weather but always be prepared for it to change. On all but the hottest days we carry lightweight full waterproofs and a spare warm layer (a synthetic jacket is great as it will stay warm even when wet). Take plenty of food, and A traverse of the Fisherfields Munros is snack on the go. challenging but ultimately rewarding 4. Install a Grid Reference app on your smartphone. be what deters many hill walkers, but stick These little apps can be a with it and you’ll find a rewarding walk with lifesaver if things don’t quite go to plan. spectacular vistas across the Southern There are many different versions but Cairngorms from the summit. most are simple apps that won’t take Glen Affric is another of our favourite up much storage and simply provide a remote landscapes and the youth hostel six or eight figure grid reference of there provides a cosy and homely mountain your position. Furthermore, they don’t retreat in the heart of the valley surrounded need any phone or internet signal to on all sides by magnificent mountains. Only work. accessible on foot (or bike) this hostel is a welcoming and fantastic base to explore the 5. Make the most of the remote Munros to the north. excellent youth hostels The mountains are calling, and it’s across Scotland. Some deafening. Munros are hard to access in a day, even with the aid of a mountain bike, Lisa and Libby completed their continuous so an overnight stay is required. Wild self-propelled Munro round on 17 September camping and bothying are both great 2017 in a time of 77 days, a new female fun but require you to carry a lot of kit. record. They were supported by Hostelling Hostels allow you to travel more lightly, Scotland. You can read more about their and provide a bit more luxury! round at www.beautiesandthebog.com Glen Affric youth hostel is the perfect base for exploring some of the more remote Munros 2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 23 SECTION

The Pentlands after a blizzard THE STUFF Ben Dolphin looks forward to the snow – it gives him a chance to be a kid again Snowshoeing or some people, summer is one long Munros or the Cairngorm plateau to try it out. on West Kip in slumber in readiness for winter. That Even the urban periphery can feel like an the Pentland Hills Fis when the Scottish hills truly come Arctic wilderness when the snow is down, near Edinburgh into their own, transformed by weather and and across the Central Belt you’ll find suitable light into an alluring monochrome landscape introductions to Scottish winter in places where previously uncrossable bogs are such as the Pentlands, Lomonds, Campsies “EVEN THE frozen solid, sharp edges are softened and and Ochils among others. noises are muffled. Traces of humanity are Those places experience less severe URBAN buried and hidden from view, leaving only conditions than their loftier counterparts the footprints of elusive animals in the snow. farther north, and the likelihood of needing an PERIPHERY With its white blanket the world seems a ice axe and crampons is smaller. Not impossible, CAN FEEL LIKE much quieter, wilder, more beautiful place. however, as even the Central Lowlands are That’s assuming it snows, of course. subject to occasional extremes of the kind AN ARCTIC Scotland’s winter weather is notoriously found on Munros, especially during and after fickle but when the snow does arrive in storms, so it is still important to know how to WILDERNESS earnest, many of us experience a childlike recognise, tackle or avoid dangerous ground. yearning to get out and play. The wind and cold are the main hazards on WHEN THE Even for an experienced summer walker a winter walk. Gusts can knock you off SNOW IS the move into winter walking can be balance, especially on slippy ground, and on a intimidating, but you needn’t head for the sunny day when it is 0ºC even a 20mph wind DOWN”

24 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 GET ACTIVE Pictures: Ben Dolphin

can feel as cold as -8ºC. You can wait for a calmer day to go walking, but during that time the wind may have destroyed your nice, even covering of snow and instead left a weird mix of bare icy ground and thigh-deep drifts. Decent snowfall in the lowlands tends to result in fairly even cover, but it doesn’t usually hang around for more than a few days, so you need to seize your moment. In depths of up to around 10cm (4 inches) you will find walking relatively easy, although it can be sticky once it starts to thaw. When you get more substantial falls of snow, ‘walking’ can be a euphemism for ‘exhausting trudging and Making the most wading’, especially in the gloopy wet snow we of snow in Stirling often see in the lowlands.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 25 SECTIONThe joy of winter walking

STAY SAFE Best practice for summer walking is arguably even more important in winter, i.e. consulting weather forecasts, leaving route details with a Snowshoeing friend, and knowing how to navigate in in the Lomond both good and bad visibility. The Hills, Fife BMC’s free New Hill Walkers booklet has comprehensive hillwalking guidance (bit.ly/bmcbooklet) but you This is where snowshoes come in propel you forwards in a Nordic walking kind should take the following precautions/ handy. You might think they belong more in of way, but unlike other winter gear gear in winter: Scandinavia or the Canadian wilderness than snowshoes don’t require prior experience or ●● Don’t be overambitious. Days are in Scotland, but really they are beneficial training to get started. short and you will tire more quickly. anywhere you get deep snow. While not the I’ve used snowshoes in Scotland for a ●● Take extra high-energy food and a tennis racquets of old, the principle remains decade now and I do wonder how I ever got hot drink. the same. They consist of oblong plastic or by without them. They get annual use in ●● A balaclava will protect your face aluminium frames (ideally with metal teeth snowy Highland glens and forests but my from frostnip. on the underside to help grip the snow) that most memorable excursions have been in Fife ●● Protect your eyes. Wear goggles strap onto your boots and spread your and the Lothians. One gloriously sunny March when snow is blowing about, and weight across a greater surface area, day after a massive blizzard I got the No. 44 sunglasses on sunny days. allowing you to ‘float’ on the snow. You still bus from Edinburgh to Balerno, snowshoed ●● Carry a headtorch and batteries. sink a bit in anything other than well- from the bus stop up to East Cairn and back, ●● Take extra clothing, spare hat/ consolidated snow, but not as much as and then got the bus home in time for tea. gloves and a survival bag. without them. I use my snowshoes in depths Fantastic! You really can’t beat seeing hills ●● Be aware of ‘terrain traps’ – i.e. of 10-15cm or more. Any less than that and transformed under snow, and that features beneath the snow into which you risk damaging both the snowshoes and satisfaction of knowing you’ve made the you could fall. Snow bridges over the vegetation below. most of our short winter days. burns can be unstable. Most snowshoes easily strap onto any UK stockists are few but you can buy a pair ●● Snowshoes and trekking poles are kind of footwear but if you’re walking in of snowshoes online from around £120. Icicle not a substitute for crampons and ice snow you want sturdy boots and gaiters in Windermere have a good selection and axe on icy or steep snow slopes. Book that will keep your feet warm and dry. With guidance: bit.ly/iciclemtng. If you’d rather try a winter-skills course or join your local or without snowshoes, trekking poles a pair first then head to the ski centres and mountaineering club for specialist (fitted with snow baskets) are trails around Fort William and Glenmore instruction on how and when to use recommended as they Forest. Nevis Range and Glenmore Ski Shop crampons and ice axe. help with balance and rent snowshoes from around £18 a day.

Staying low in Glenmore Forest

26 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 Islesburgh House Hostel Wake up in the World’s Best Hostel

Shetland Showcase Every Monday evening from mid June to late August in the Community Centre.

Live traditional music and crafts Twice voted best hostel in the w: www.shetland.gov.uk/islesburgh/ world by Hostelling e: [email protected] International guests Islesburgh Complex, King Harald Street, Lerwick, Shetland, ZE1 0EQ

Tel: 01595 745 100

Shetland Council_Feb 2017.indd 1 08/02/2018 11:24 EXPLORE

he term ‘Geocaching’ was first used back in 2000 and has rapidly expanded over the past 18 years Twith more than two million caches (small waterproof boxes containing a log book and often a number of small swappable trinkets) stashed across the world. Players try to locate these hidden containers using GPS coordinates sometimes along with a series of cryptic clues. Geocaches come in every size, from nano to micro to full-sized caches and Geocoins – trackable and collectable tokens in various designs – often used in caches as swaps. Appealing to all ages and abilities, the treasure hunt style of Geocaching makes it a great way to encourage children and young people into the great outdoors and exploring areas around them. With thousands of caches throughout Scotland it’s the perfect way to get active and create your own adventure – finding hidden gems along the way.

How to get started Visit Geocaching.com and watch the quick explanation video. You can then register for a free membership which should be enough to get you started. Next put in the postcode or region you want to explore into the search box to see how many caches there are in Treasure hunting may bring to mind pirates that area. Results can be filtered by difficulty and terrain rating to suit all abilities. There are and dusty old maps, but when combined guidelines for both placing and seeking with GPS-enabled mobile phones, ‘X’ marks caches to ensure the pastime remains fun for all and please remember to follow the spot for a whole host of outdoor fun The Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

28 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 EXPLORE

Calton Hill in Edinburgh Photograph: This is Edinburgh This is Photograph:

The Back Walk behind Stirling Youth Hostel

EDINBURGH STIRLING Within popular tourist spots such as the There’s certainly no shortage of Royal Mile, Calton Hill and St Andrews Square, Geocaching sites in and around Stirling. there are almost 1,000 caches across Focusing on the Old Town, there are Scotland’s capital city alone. Please keep to two sites towards the bottom of the

Photograph: This is Edinburgh This is Photograph: the ‘Geocaching Code’ when searching in Back Walk behind Stirling Youth Hostel. popular tourist areas – be stealthy about This is an interesting alternative walk up your searching and be sure to replace the (or down!) from Stirling Castle following the container exactly where you found it. old city walls. Greyfriars Bobby is another type of Just a short walk from the youth Geocache – an earthcache. Although there hostel you’ll find the Stirling Smith Art Gallery is no physical box or container to search for and Museum, complete with cache hidden in with an earthcache, in this case you do need the museum’s biodiversity garden. While to study the geology and makeup of the there, be sure to pop into the museum. It’s fountain and answer the questions that have free to visit and home to a collection of rare been set to complete. This is a great, easy and unique artefacts – including the world’s earthcache for getting children interested in oldest football. Greyfriars Bobby is an earthcache history and geology when staying at Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 29 EXPLORE

All you need is a smartphone, a signal and a sense of adventure

Woodland sculpture, Perthshire Caches can often be hidden in treestumps Kinnoull Hill, Perthshire

KIRKWALL PERTH You won’t have to walk far from Kirkwall Perthshire, with its reputation for big trees, Youth Hostel, with not one but two caches beautiful vistas and well-made trails, is the ideal ABERDEENSHIRE just around the corner. If you’re looking for destination for a day’s treasure hunting when MEGA 2019 more of an adventure then the Crantit Trail is staying at our Perth Youth Hostel. Kinnoull Hill is popular with walkers, cyclists and horse a great Geocaching spot for families, especially riders and is located on the outskirts of along the woodland park where you can also Kirkwall, close to Scapa Beach. There are two spot wooden sculptures of wildlife. caches along the trail and, being not far from the town centre, it’s perfect if you are looking ISLE OF SKYE for an easy way to get out and explore the No matter which of the three youth hostels countryside. you choose to stay in on the Isle of Skye The caches around Kirkwall tend to be you’ll find a cache nearby. Admire the Beinn 35mm film canisters (remember those?) na Caillich or discover historic Skye from the 2019 Mega Aberdeenshire Photograph: containing log and pencil – making them island’s second largest town Broadford. Why From 5-11 August 2019 Geocachers slightly harder to spot. not investigate the ‘raised beaches’ on a from all over the UK and further coastal walk from Portree to complete afield will be ULLAPOOL another earthcache? If you prefer to explore coming to

If you’re heading to h: Annie Sp on two wheels then there are a series of Aberdeen for a grap rat to t, U ho n Ullapool Youth P sp caches along the Blue Bealach Brittle loop in week of events la s Hostel along the h Glenbrittle Forest which skirts Loch Eynort. and activities A835 then there with the main are a couple of ABERDEEN Mega Day taking easier finds just With Aberdeenshire Mega 2019 taking place place on Saturday off the main next year we shouldn’t fail to mention 11 August 2019. road. A true gem, Aberdeen in this list of Geocaching hotspots. Anyone attending the event and however, is a trip to Explore the city’s granite lined streets with logging a cache gets a special Mega find the Ullapool Hill caches located just a stroll from Aberdeen Event icon on their Geocaching cache. It’s a short but steep Youth Hostel. It’s an easy spot to cross profile. Take part in Scotland’s only ascent here, but worth it for the stunning multiple caches off your Geocaching ‘to do’ Geotour (and one of only two in the views over Loch Broom and Ullapool. The list. Through the city centre, caching spots UK!) with 20 caches to find along highest point is Meall Mor and from here are near highlights like the Aberdeen Deeside Way from Drumoak to you’ll be able to see inland over Loch Achall. Maritime Museum and The Tollbooth Ballater and up to Braemar. The terrain for this cache is rated a difficulty Museum – one of Aberdeen’s oldest of three out of five with steep sections and buildings and one of the best-preserved Find out more at mega2019.org.uk muddy, boggy areas after rain. 17th century gaols (jail) in Scotland.

30 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018

EXPLORE NORTHERN LIGHTS As the capital of the North East and Scotland’s third largest city, Aberdeen is probably known more for its oil and gas industries than its vibrant tourism offering

berdeen is often overlooked for the East Coast and the Moray Firth Coast. beauty of the Highlands or the For those with a thirst for history, a visit to Abright lights and glamour of Scotland’s Castle Trail is a must when staying Edinburgh or Glasgow, but what many don’t in the North East. With around 300 castles, realise is that Aberdeen and the surrounding stately homes and ruins dotting the area possess many of the attributes that Aberdeenshire landscape, it’s no wonder people love about Scotland – breathtaking the region is known as Scotland’s Castle scenery, mouth-watering food and drink, Country. rich history and distinctive culture. And it’s not just grand castles that delight In Aberdeen you can feel the richness of the visitors to the city; Aberdeen Maritime city's history all around you. Famous for its Museum, the Tolbooth Museum, Aberdeen granite buildings and monuments, the centre Science Centre and Gordon Highlanders is packed with sparkling gems, buildings such Museum are all popular attractions suitable as His Majesty's Theatre and Marischal for visitors of all ages and interests. College shimmer in the sunlight. As well as beautiful buildings and historic To the north of the city centre, the cobbled sites the city also boasts some stunning streets and historic university buildings of old green spaces such as Duthie Park which lies Aberdeen are steeped in history, while to the to the south of Aberdeen city centre. As east – by the harbour – the quaint fishing Scotland’s third most visited gardens, the quarter of Footdee (pronounced locally as park is best known for its wide range of Fittie) boasts tiny cottages and colourful exotic plants, family play areas and Victorian gardens. design features. It also features the David The newly launched North East 250 is an Welch Winter Gardens which is one of the excellent way to familiarise yourself with the largest indoor gardens in Europe. wider area. The driving route, which looks set A short distance away from the bustling to emulate the success of the hugely popular city centre you’ll find Aberdeen beach, North Coast 500, takes you through perfect for long walks and fun family days Speyside, the Cairngorms, Royal Deeside, the out. Head to the harbour where you may see some of the city’s most popular residents, a The granite facade of pod of dolphins who are often spotted Marischal College playing in the water. Aberdeen and the surrounding area is also home to some of the country’s most exciting and spectacular events including SPECTRA: Aberdeen’s Festival of Light, the Aberdeen Looking east along International Youth Festival, Aberdeen Jazz Aberdeen’s main Festival, Scottish Traditional Boat Festival, shopping area, Union Street Braemar Gathering and Granite Noir. After a busy day of sightseeing, relax and Photograph: VisitScotland/

Photograph: VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins Tomkins VisitScotland/Paul Photograph: unwind with a visit to one of the city’s many Paul Tomkins

32 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 Photograph: VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins EXPLORE

Left: the Castlegate area of the city, with the Mercat Cross, built in 1686

Below: Aberdeen Martime Museum tells the story of the city’s long history with the North Sea

Photograph: VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

bars, pubs and restaurants. Enjoy world-class favourites such as Aberdeen Angus beef or fresh seafood straight from the harbour. Or why not sample local delicacies like Cullen skink or a rowie – a breakfast roll similar in style to the French croissant? Aberdeen is a must for foodies with a diverse range of eateries from traditional pubs, boutique cafes and elegant restaurants, each serving the best in local and international cuisine. Of course, no trip to Aberdeen is complete without a comforting dram or a pint of craft beer. Only in Aberdeen will you find the UK’s first BrewDog pub, not far from where the company began in Fraserburgh. The wider Aberdeenshire region is home to several whisky distilleries such as Glen Garioch, Royal Lochnagar, Glen Dronach and Ardmore, providing you with plenty of opportunities to sample Scotland’s national drink. Aberdeen also has a fantastic array of shops, boasting the latest must-have and designer names. Situated next to the city’s main transport links, Union Square in the city centre has more than 70 shops, a cinema and a hotel. Meanwhile, the new multi-million pound Marischal Square is set to transform the city, creating a space for businesses to prosper and for visitors to explore. As well as office space, the development will include coffee shops, restaurants and gardens. So whether it’s cutting-edge architecture, captivating museums and galleries, rich history, picture-perfect coastlines, first- class dining or an exciting variety of events and festival, there is no need to look further than Aberdeen.

For more information visit: visitscotland.com/aberdeen

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 33 EXPLORE

KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY

Kirsty and Logan at McCaigs Tower, Oban

34 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 EXPLORE

Ross discovers the hostel play room Pictures: © Kirsty Catherine

Outdoor play area at Sealife Centre

exceptionally well equipped (although the Mum of two Kirsty Catherine loves staff kept the tin opener safely behind the the outdoors, so hostelling with her counter!), and we were also able to borrow a travel cot. My favourite and completely family is a great way to explore unexpected discovery was the free tea bags, coffee and milk cartons in the kitchen. A close second was the mention of continental outh hostels have featured in many positively to sharing the space with others. and cooked breakfast options in the morning of my adventures in Scotland (and So, when we were invited to test out how for a small extra charge, which we eagerly Yas far afield as Australia) over the family-friendly hostelling can be in Scotland embraced. last three decades. I have particularly fond we were more than happy to give it a go. One Our family room was on the first floor, up a memories of meeting new people when of the hostels that featured heavily in very wide set of stairs which really hostelling as a child. For some reason, my pre-children travels is Oban pleased our baby Ross as he though, my husband and I hadn’t considered Youth Hostel. I have happily crawled up umpteen youth hostels as an option since having previously visited with times. Three-year-old our own children. With two bad sleepers, several different groups Logan was instantly we tend to go for self-catering cottages of friends, and also pleased with the room instead, but that is much more pricey and with my husband. As a and decided that the often less flexible. five-star hostel, with double bed was for When planning a recent family holiday to family rooms and a him. When that Iceland, we were very keen to visit the central location, it was attempt failed he famous Iceberg Lagoon (Jökulsárlón), and the obvious choice for pleaded for the bunk the only even remotely affordable place to a gentle introduction to bed above this, and tried stay was a private room in the nearby family hostelling. to insist he was indeed six Vagnsstaðir Youth Hostel. Our room turned My first slight panic was Logan discovers a when we read out the age crab shell on beach out to be an absolutely amazing tiny hut with what to bring. My mum used to limit instructions. It took a bit of beautiful views of the mountains. And pack vast quantities of stuff negotiation to persuade him to tuck although I ended up with two kids squashed whenever we went to hostels as a child; his cuddly hare into the single bed instead, in with me in a one-person bunk, it was a teaspoons, sharp knives, bottle opener, but once that was done he was happy. Ross fantastic experience and one I was keen to cleaning equipment, cooking utensils and of thought it was great fun to crawl in and out repeat (preferably with the kids sleeping in course sleeping sheets. But with a small car, of the shower, try to get into the toilet and their own beds!). It was particularly fun and the need to bring four people and a attempt to climb up the bunk bed ladder. seeing our oldest boy’s excitement at the buggy, we kept it very minimal. Luckily it Luckily the place was pretty babyproof, and giant shared kitchen, and how he reacted so turned out that our hostel kitchen was we were particularly grateful for the

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 35 EXPLORE

stiff fire doors which foiled our sons’ escape attempts. With such extensive cooking facilities we really should have created some great meals, but we didn’t. I remember being rather embarrassed as a student sitting in the same hostel watching a Belgian walking group prepare an extravagant three-course meal. They not only managed to produce a sumptuous feast from the self-catering kitchen, but had even brought their own posh wine glasses and serving dishes. Ross and Chris at the Sealife Centre Meanwhile we ate fish and chips straight from the packet! Fifteen years later we found ourselves doing exactly the same – after all Oban is well-known for lovely fresh Logan’s favourite part of fish. Of course this is one of the huge joys of the hostel was what he called the “play Ready for the cooked hostelling – most hotels would never allow a room.” One of the two guest lounges (the breakfast at the hostel takeaway through the door. I noticed that Odin room) had a toy box, board games and the cooking other groups were doing a big toddler activity table. Logan was also encompassed the full range from ready quick to point out that there was a television, meals in the microwave to proper meals. No and I admit that we did find the CBeebies one even seemed to mind when Ross got fed channel rather early on in proceedings when up with eating and went off for a wander the room was otherwise empty. around the dining room squealing loudly – in Outside, the hostel was in the perfect fact, everyone went out of their way to chat child-friendly location straight across from to the boys. the beach. We had great fun finding crabs, Our two sleeping experiences were throwing stones and generally messing theoretically great – comfortable beds, about on the sand in the small patches of sun spacious rooms and helpful little extras like we found on a rather miserable wet reading lights next to all the beds. Of course weekend. The rest of our time was spent things are never quite so simple with kids, enjoying just a small fraction of the fantastic View from Sealife Centre beach and each morning we woke up to a rather local things for families. We guddled in the random assortment of people in each bed. rock pools, counted fish and climbed around On the plus side, being in a family room in the woods at the Scottish Sea Life meant we ended up all going to bed at a Sanctuary, learned how chocolate is made similar time so we did get reasonable rest. (and ate far too much cake!) at the Oban Chocolate Company, enjoyed clambering on “LOGAN’S McCaig’s Tower and spent lots of time watching ferries at the harbour. FAVOURITE It was a really fantastic weekend, made all the more special by the warm welcome PART OF THE of youth hostel staff and other guests. HOSTEL WAS It certainly seems that youth hostels can cater very well for young families. We’ve WHAT HE now been inspired to take the next more adventurous step and are enthusiastically CALLED THE debating which hostel we should visit on ‘PLAY ROOM’” our next trip.

36 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 EXPLORE

A ROAD LESS TRAVELLED Take a different route and discover a new side of Scotland

ith so many areas of outstanding across Scotland, we’re perfectly placed to natural beauty and cultural enable anyone to discover and experience Winterest waiting to be explored, the real Scotland. So we asked our teams Scotland’s appeal extends far beyond the across the country for some hidden gems areas made famous on shortbread tins. that might not be obvious when visiting With an extensive network of hostels Scotland this year.

‘Still’ is a box-like, mirrored

Photograph: CNPA Photograph: viewpoint at Tomintoul

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 37 EXPLORE Photograph: CNPA Photograph: “THE SNOW ROADS ARE THE SLOW ROADS, A BREATHTAKING ROUTE THROUGH THE Rest awhile at ‘Connecting MOUNTAINS” Contours’ in Glenshee ‘The Watchers’ – an arrangement of sheltered THE SNOW ROAD cowled seats

The snow roads link Blairgowrie and CNPA Photograph: Grantown-on-Spey via Braemar and Tomintoul. It’s not a new route as historically it has been used by military and as a smuggling route for whisky! The route forms the highest public road in Corgarff Castle can be viewed Britain and is regularly used by classic car from ‘The Watchers’

and motorbike enthusiasts, and increasingly and Damian Shields VisitScotland Photograph: by road cyclists. The route offers a quiet alternative to the A9, traversing the eastern Glenshee, takes the form of an elongated opportunity to experience one of the most Cairngorms through remote, wild and viewpoint seat and path while ‘Still’ scenic routes through The Cairngorms breathtaking landscape. It also links three of completes the trio with a box-like structure National Park. Scotland’s ski areas, Glenshee, the Lecht and whose mirrored interior reflects the Cairngorm Mountain. surrounding landscape at Tomintoul. A THE NORTH WEST EXPLORER Enhanced viewpoints have been installed Cairngorms photo-post is also located at Head off the well-beaten track of the NC500 along the route - not that you’d need a each installation to allow you to capture and discover a true taste of Scotland’s North reason to stop and take in this awe-inspiring changes in the landscape. West Coast. landscape. There are three installations in The snow roads are the slow roads, a For many visitors to Wester Ross, Torridon total with the first, ‘The Watchers’, on the breathtaking route through the mountains and Shieldaig are their main destinations and A939 at Corgaff. Take in the views of that allows you to access a myriad of hidden they don’t tend to venture any further. Corgarff Castle and beyond into the central gems. From castles, small galleries and The road from Torridon to Diabaig, Cairngorms from a group of cowled seats. museums, to mountain bike trails to high and though less travelled, is definitely one The second, ‘Connecting Contours’ in low level walking and wildlife – this is your not to be missed. Photograph: Lee Rowden Lee Photograph:

38 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 The snow-capped Torridon Hills from EXPLORE Upper Loch Torridon

Red Point Beach near Gairloch

Red deer are a common sight

Torridon Hills and Red Point Beach photographs: VisitScotland/ Kenny Lam Kenny VisitScotland/ Beach photographs: Point Hills and Red Torridon on Arran

This road is just as exciting as the famous a magical old fishing village and home to the allowed it to keep its unspoiled beauty and Bealach na Ba road to Applecross but almost award winning Gille Bhidhe café/restaurant. distinctive island charm. traffic free. The single track road is only a few The coastal track continues another five A perfect location for wildlife enthusiasts, miles long but it offers some of the most miles until it picks up the public road at the area surrounding Lochranza is home to a stunning views in Scotland. Redpoint, before continuing via Badachro to large population of red deer, which can often Leaving Torridon behind you, the single Gairloch. At Redpoint, two idyllic beaches be seen grazing on the local golf course and track climbs steadily, leading you through a offer great views to the Isle of Skye and the can even be heard exploring the cobbled beautiful pine forest and winding upwards Outer Hebrides. beach after dark. The mountainous towards the Bealach na Gaoithe viewpoint. surroundings also make this an ideal location From here you will enjoy magnificent views LOCHRANZA, ISLE OF ARRAN for golden eagles, while the shore of Loch over Upper Loch Torridon, the hills of Described as ‘Scotland in miniature’ Arran is Ranza is the place for seal and otter spotting. Glenshieldaig and Applecross Forest. The road an island of distinct contrasts. From the For those with an adventurous spirit, then heads along Loch Daibaigas Airde before rugged volcanic peaks of the north to rolling Lochranza is a great base for tackling Arran’s gradually descending towards Lower Diabeg, green pastures in the south, everything you mountain trails including Goat Fell, the could want from a Scottish island is here. island’s highest peak. For the less ambitious Surrounded by hills on three sides, the Cock of Arran walk provides a beautifully Lochranza is one of the most picturesque scenic low-level trek and keen cyclists will villages on Arran. Sitting on the banks of the enjoy the challenge of the circular 58-mile loch from which it takes its name, the focal ride around the island. point of this lochside village is the imposing Renowned for its fine local produce, from ruin of a 13th- century castle standing cheese and oatcakes to preserves and beer, GARBH BHEINN, GLENCOE proudly on a narrow peninsula extending into you could quite easily eat and drink your way Most visitors to Glencoe Youth Hostel the beautiful loch. around this island. The Isle of Arran Distillery, will never have heard of Garbh Bheinn. Located in the north of the island, it in Lochranza itself, is well worth a visit to At 869m, it proudly overshadows the traditionally attracts fewer visitors than sample a wee dram of their famous malt village of Kinlochleven and has one of Brodick, Lamlash or Whiting Bay, but this has whisky. the finest ridge walks in Scotland. The starting point is roughly half way along the B863 Glencoe to Kinlochleven road. There is a regular bus service and those travelling by car will find a couple of lay-bys nearby. After a boggy start, the ground soon dries up as you gather Michal Fiut Photograph: height. From the top you will enjoy stunning views of Ben Nevis, the Pap of Glencoe, Loch Leven and looking east, Blackwater reservoir with its dam (the story of which is movingly told in Lochranza Castle, Arran the book Children of the Dead End).

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 39 ADVERTISING FEATURE

EXPLORE

Many of the best travel adventures start with a ferry journey, and travelling to Scotland’s west coast is no exception. Now is your chance to explore thousands of miles of dramatic mainland and island coastline GO WEST

et sail on a CalMac ferry grander title, Gateway to the MULL AND THE INNER HEBRIDES and you’ll open up one of Isles, as it is from Oban you can From Oban, hop on the next Sthe most unique parts of discover the majesty of the CalMac crossing to Mull, which the world. One where you’ll be Inner and Outer Hebrides. But lies less than 50 minutes away. rewarded with beautiful beaches before you head off there’s From the ferry’s deck, you’ll that would give those of the much to discover in and around get a great view of Duart Caribbean a run for their money; the town itself. Find your sea Castle, the 14th-century thousands of years of legs with a short jaunt over to its island fortress that guards fascinating history and heritage; closest neighbouring island the Sound of Mull. It remains world-class food and drink and a – Kerrera – rugged, unspoiled the home of the Clan Chief thriving events calendar – and home of the beautiful Gylen MacLean, and it’s a view boasting everything from music Castle as well as one of the UK’s that will set the tone for festivals to marathons. best, and certainly one of the your stay since Mull is Here’s our take on some of most unique triathlon events. steeped in history and the locations where you can Oban is also Scotland’s seafood heritage. The colourful really soak up the unique spirit capital thanks to its fishing harbour town of of the West Coast. heritage and the number of Tobermory is the

award-winning seafood perfect Hebridean host with its Photograph: Calmac OBAN – THE GATEWAY TO restaurants based there. Round brightly painted buildings, one of CalMac from Oban THE ISLES off your visit with a night or two which is in fact Tobermory Youth or from Uig on Skye to the Most west coast adventurers at Oban Youth Hostel – a Hostel. There is 482 km of Western Isles – an archipelago take their first fledgling ferry beautifully refurbished Victorian coastline to explore on Mull that stretches for 130 glorious journey from Oban. In Gaelic its building, which is also Scotland’s alone and it’s teeming with miles (210 km). The scenery is name means ‘little bay’ but it is only 5-star youth hostel outside wildlife. You may spot puffins, as dramatic as the location also very deserving of its other, of Edinburgh. dolphins, otters, whales, basking might suggest with beautiful, sharks or even the elusive sea deserted beaches of white sand, eagle. Mull’s beaches – clear turquoise waters, and particularly Calgary Bay in the moors full of wildflowers and north and Carsaig in the south lochs. It’s a feast for the senses – are beautiful, and the and a perfect setting for the picturesque and peaceful island thriving events calendar, which of Iona, the cradle of Christianity boasts everything from the in Scotland, is just a short ferry renowned HebCelt music festival ride away. to an annual 12.5-mile (20km) race across Barra – otherwise OUTER HEBRIDES – known as the Barrathon. The THE WESTERN ISLES islands of the Outer Hebrides Perhaps the ultimate west coast have an appealing slow pace of adventure is a trip to the Outer life, steeped in Gaelic culture, so Hebrides, which sit on the very it’s the perfect way to really get Glenbrittle Youth Hostel edge of Europe. Set sail with away from it all.

42 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 EXPLORE

TICKET TO Lewis WESTWORLD Skye From a short break in and around the waters of the Clyde to a spectacular Hebridean voyage – the West Coast is an unparalleled and unspoiled destination. Start planning your west Mull coast ferry and hostelling adventure today. Find all the details you need at www.calmac.co.uk/journeyplanner and www.hostellingscotland.org.uk Islay Arran

Colourful Tobermory on the Isle of Mull Photograph: Lee Rowden

“ISLAY IS HOME TO NO everything that’s special about Highland-Lowland fault line this beautiful part of the world. runs right through the island, FEWER THAN EIGHT dividing the mountainous north WORKING DISTILLERIES, ARRAN – SCOTLAND from the forests and farmland IN MINIATURE of the south. There’s plenty of PRODUCING WORLD- Just an hour or so from the outdoor adventure here too FAMOUS MALTS” mainland is the Isle of Arran from hiking and biking to gorge – the perfect destination for a scrambling, and there’s also a OVER THE SEA TO SKYE ISLAY – THE QUEEN short break. Nestled in the Firth well-stocked local larder. And When you step off the Mallaig OF THE HEBRIDES of Clyde, Arran offers a wide when you stop over at the ferry at Armadale on Skye’s At the other end of the west variety of scenery yet it is small hostel in Lochranza you’ll have Sleat peninsula, you’ll feel like coast is the Isle of Islay. Take enough to navigate yourself an incredible view of the island’s you’ve stepped into another the CalMac ferry from around in a day or so. The 13th-century ruined castle. world, such is the nature of Kennacraig on the Kintyre Skye’s landscape. It’s home to Peninsula over to Islay in Passengers 12 Munros including the famous around two hours. It’s a world disembarking at Black Cuillin range, nestled of whisky, beaches, wildlife and Fishnish, Isle of Mull under which is the Glenbrittle music. Islay is home to no Youth Hostel. Skye is the fewer than eight working ultimate playground for the distilleries, producing world- outdoor enthusiast. However, famous malts. Even the local there’s another side to Skye youth hostel at Port Charlotte which includes its world-class is a converted whisky restaurants, art studios, castles warehouse beautifully situated and crofting museums that on the sandy shore of Loch chart the tumultuous history of Indaal. Also known as Queen of its people from clan battles to the Hebrides, each year Islay the Highland Clearances. Skye hosts its famous Islay Festival

is captivating on many levels. of Music and Malt featuring Calmac Photograph:

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 43 LEARN OPERATING LOCALLY BUT THINKING GLOBALLY! Hostelling Scotland is committed to ensuring that our activities complement and support the natural environment we operate within

01

We’re pleased to THE INTRODUCTION say that 91 per cent Sustainability, by definition, never OF ENERGY of our youth hostels Silver ends, so we will continue to work to EFFICIENT are now rated reduce our impact on the environment, or above in the Green Tourism engaging with local communities and Business Scheme guests to promote sustainable (GTBS). practices. Recent initiatives include: LED LIGHTING ACROSS THE NETWORK

04 05 06 DUAL FLUSH TOILETS HELP INEFFICIENT REDUCE OUR AND OLD CONNECTION OF BOILERS ARE BEING LOCH OSSIAN TO A WATER REPLACED WITH HYDROELECTRIC USAGE ENERGY- EFFICIENT SUPPLY SUPPLEMENTED WITH BOILERS PHOTOVOLTAIC POWER

09 INTRODUCING HEAT 10 WE’VE INTRODUCED RECOVERY SYSTEMS ECO-FRIENDLY TO VARIOUS HOSTELS CLEANING PRODUCTS WHICH INCREASES THE TO ALL OF OUR HOSTELS ENERGY EFFICIENCY

44 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 LEARN OPERATING LOCALLY BUT THINKING GLOBALLY! Hostelling Scotland is committed to ensuring that our activities complement and support the natural environment we operate within

02 03 WHERE POSSIBLE, WE NOW SERVE FOOD REPLACING SOURCED FROM GAS COOKERS IN OUR SELF-CATERING LOCAL AND KITCHENS WITH FULLY SCOTTISH ELECTRIC HOBS AND OVENS ACTIVELY REDUCES OUR SUPPLIERS USE OF FOSSIL FUELS

07 RENEWAL OF THE 08 IMPROVING THE PHOTOVOLTAIC SYSTEM TO IMPROVE ITS INSULATION EFFICIENCY AT GLEN ACROSS THE AFFRIC TO WORK IN NETWORK REDUCING CONJUNCTION WITH THE UNNECESSARY HEAT LOSS WIND TURBINE WE’RE CONSCIOUS 12 Beach clean OF THE NATURAL in Ullapool 11 ENVIRONMENT SURROUNDING OUR BIKE STORAGE HOSTELS AND OUR FACILITIES TEAMS WORK WITH ARE CURRENTLY AT THE PARTNERS AND MAJORITY OF OUR HOSTELS LOCAL COMMUNITIES AND WHERE POSSIBLE WE ARE TO SUPPORT THESE LOOKING TO EXTEND THESE NATURAL HABITATS

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 45 LEARN

IF HILLS COULD TALK The stories behind Scotland’s wild landscapes are just waiting to reveal themselves. All you have to do is look, says Patrick Baker

cotland is a treasure trove of secret Mid Argyll, for instance – easily reached by stones that once formed a family farmstead histories. Few places in the world can bus from Oban or Glasgow. Within a six-mile allows us to understand first-hand the lives Sboast such an abundance of radius of the main village, there are thought that our ancestors once lived. They describe overlooked and unacknowledged to be over 350 ancient monuments dating a time before the Industrial Revolution and archaeological riches. These secret histories from the Neolithic to the Bronze Age. the awfulness of the Clearances (the dark range from the truly ancient – hillforts, Walking through the glen, it’s almost period in Scottish history when tens of standing stones and sacred wells – to the impossible not to stumble across one of the thousands of Highlanders were evicted from more contemporary human interactions in many burial cairns or find yourself at the their rural homes) and allow us to picture an Scotland’s wild places – plane wrecks, edge of a mysterious stone circle. existence far removed from our own modern abandoned villages and illicit stills, to name Remarkably though, locating these sites conveniences. but a few. requires little more than a bit of research and This is perhaps the power that can be a willingness to get into Scotland’s wild exerted by these wild discoveries. We get to Monumental outdoors. A good starting point is to open up understand stories rather than histories, the The sheer number of historic sites in an Ordnance Survey map. Hidden among the personal rather than the impersonal. In this Scotland is astounding. Take Kilmartin Glen in grid squares, you’ll find a wealth of evidence way, we can chart the progression of our as to lives and events that have left an own relationships with our landscapes. The impression in the land. Often these are high-level shelters of the Cairngorms are a indicated with the maps’ cartographic compelling illustration of this. Scattered symbols of archaeological importance: the across the vast expanse of Britain’s largest calligraphic font describing a monument, and highest mountain range, the shelters or the crossed swords of a battle site. played an important part in the development But they are also expressed more of British mountaineering when they were subtly, requiring deduction and a bit built in the 1950s and 60s. of imagination. Buildings, for example, marked in remote Safe haven areas and miles from any The refuges were extremely rudimentary in roads appear in many their construction, affording only the most areas of the Highlands basic of protection from the elements. Inside, and tell their own story accommodation was cramped – barely of loss and tragedy. standing height, and room for only a few Finding these ruined people. Wind would howl through the gaps in villages and sheilings the boulder walls and rainwater would leak can be a poignant, through the roof. Yet in an age before but fascinating high-specification equipment, the shelters experience. To reach enabled bands of hardy climbers to access the moss-covered some of the most remote rock faces in the

46 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 The remains of Duke Murdoch’s Castle can SECTION be seen on an island in Loch Ard

“LOCATING THESE SITES REQUIRES LITTLE MORE THAN A BIT OF RESEARCH AND A WILLINGNESS TO GET INTO SCOTLAND’S WILD OUTDOORS”

The El Alamein shelter

in Cairn Gorm was built

as an emergency refuge for climbers The Garbh Choire shelter beneath Braeriach is due to be restored in 2018

British Isles and in doing so helped to push the boundaries of the sport. Most of these shelters were dismantled or fell apart, but a few still remain. The tiny Garbh Choire shelter is still used to this day, providing access to the huge rock walls below the mountain of Braeriach. Meanwhile, the ruin of the El Alamein shelter near Cairn Gorm is an incredibly improbable structure perched high above the deep valley of Strath Nethy. Both are more than worth the effort required to visit, but it should be noted that these are emergency shelters should the

Photographs: Patrick Baker Patrick Photographs: weather turn nasty.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 47 This vast replica of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall was built for training purposes near Stirling in preparation for D-Day

Wreckage stretches back thousands Elsewhere, discoveries can be unexpected, of years. found unintentionally during a wild ramble. Occasionally, there are Anyone who has spent time in Scotland’s features in the landscape that mountains may well have come across one are initially hard to explain. On of the many plane wrecks that are strewn the high, windswept across its peaks and ridges. The majority are moorland of Sherriffmuir from the war years (in 1943 alone, military near Stirling, a bizarre Plane wreckage from the crashes accounted for the deaths of 571 concrete structure, over 250 Second World War can still be seen, like this on Beinn a Bhuird aircrew on Britain’s mountains) and provide a feet long and more than ten sobering reminder of not only the risks feet high, can be seen from involved in flying over Britain’s high ground at the roadside. On first appearance, it that time, but also the bravery of the men is difficult to understand the purpose of a In this sense, these secret landscape and women who chose to do so. such a huge wall in such an isolated spot. Yet histories have a cultural and social Mystery and ancient ritual can also be part this particular landscape artefact played a importance that is perhaps more relevant of the landscape’s hidden secrets. Natural vital role in the success of the D-Day than the formalised versions of history we springs have often been ascribed healing landings. It is, in fact, a replica of Hitler’s are used to seeing in museums and stately properties and the pagan tradition of the Atlantic Wall defences, built secretly in the homes. What’s more they’re free, and the clootie well continues to exist in parts of prelude to the allied invasion to allow British experience of finding them can make their Scotland today. At several places, it is still forces practice at breaching the actual wall. discovery feel even more rewarding. believed that a ‘cloot’ (a cloth or a rag) dipped in the waters of a particular well and then hung on a nearby tree will rid a person of an ailment. At certain sites, such as one near the village of Munlochy on the Black Isle, or St “MYSTERY AND ANCIENT Mary’s Well in Culloden Woods, hundreds of RITUAL CAN ALSO BE PART pieces of fabric and clothing are festooned on surrounding branches. Each is an offering OF THE LANDSCAPE’S made to the spirit of the well, a practice that HIDDEN SECRETS”

48 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 LEARN

NATURAL REMEDIES Stuart Brooks, Head of Natural Heritage Policy at the National Trust for Scotland, reminds us of the healing benefits of the outdoors

eing outdoors, spending time with evidence that supports the idea that what inequalities. The British Heart Foundation family and friends, making new we have on our doorstep, available to estimates that 20 million adults in the UK are Bfriends, having new experiences everyone, is a Natural Health System? If so, not meeting minimum guidelines of discovering beautiful places – this is part of are we making the most of it? undertaking 150 minutes of moderate physical Hostelling Scotland’s key ethos. Great for Let’s start with the diagnosis. In the UK we activity per week. In children the percentage is those who have already bought into the face a number of health challenges; lower but it rises to more than 70 per cent for opportunities on offer, but does having a increasingly sedentary lifestyles, an increase the over-70s. They estimate that this is good time give us benefits beyond a warm in obesity, growing mental ill health, incidence costing the National Health Service £1.2 billion glow and happy memories? Is there any of dementia, social isolation and health a year dealing with the consequences.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 49 Skye has some of the LEARN most magical scenery in Scotland

Our mental health is paramount to our general sense of wellbeing. Talking about how we feel and acknowledging we might not be ‘OK’ is thankfully becoming more commonplace. The Mental Health Foundation estimate that every year one in four of us will experience a significant mental health problem. Anxiety and depression are commonplace and by 2020 it is predicted that depression will be the second most common cause of disability in the developed world. Social isolation, how connected we feel to others, is linked to our sense of wellbeing, and is a particular problem in older generations. Where we live, our local environment and our financial circumstances also have an impact on our health and wellbeing. Typically, the poorer our situation, the worse our outlook and Rivers have the less likely we will be benefiting from a tangible energy being active and connecting with nature and that makes you people outdoors. feel good Well, this all seems a bit depressing, but thankfully there is a flip side to all of this. The health benefits of a physically the first step due to lack of knowledge, countryside. This is important, not only as active lifestyle are now accepted by confidence, resources or disability who service providers but also as a means of governments and policymakers, and more need some help to get engaging the public in a relationship with evidence is emerging to back up them started on that journey of nature. This serves two purposes. what most of us know already realisation and reward. Firstly, by experiencing nature we shape – being outdoors makes you I work for the National Trust our views of it, our values if you like. Ultimately feel good. For many – for Scotland (NTS) which was we will only protect what we value so there is probably most of the readers founded in 1931, the same a direct link between facilitating access, by of this magazine – this year as the Scottish Youth building mountain footpaths or providing sounds so obvious it isn’t Hostels Association. Although hostel accommodation, to the act of deserving of the ink on the we have both evolved to meet conservation. This works at the level of page. For those of us who the needs of modern Scotland individuals, support for member organisations regularly get outside, visit and its visitors, we share a such as NTS and Hostelling Scotland, as well hostels and explore their common ethos – to provide as for society as a whole. surroundings it’s a given. But there are opportunities for everyone to experience Secondly, that relationship with nature, many people who are either unable to take Scotland’s heritage and especially our with place, gives us such reward. It enlivens us, inspires and challenges us. It can put our life and issues into context and make us feel Big horizons are a part of something bigger. In one of his common sight in Scotland unpublished journals (1938), John Muir said “Most people are on the world, not in it – have no conscious sympathy or relationship to anything about them – undiffused, separate, and rigidly alone like marbles of polished stone, touching but separate”. So, a sense that society is disconnected from nature is nothing new – and John Muir certainly knew how to inspire people to get connected by sharing his love and experiences of being in the outdoors. As the founding father of the National Parks movement, he knew very well that to conserve important places you first needed

50 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 A walk in the woods is great for the soul

Walking the dog is a great way to relax

“THAT RELATIONSHIP WITH NATURE… ENLIVENS US, INSPIRES AND CHALLENGES US”

to get people there to enjoy them – to get Scotland has Chilling at the hostel them in the world. so many great cycle tracks John Muir was advocating a Natural Health Service long before any empirical evidence was there to support public policy investment. Perhaps we could get all our politicians to read John Muir, or even better to experience Scotland’s amazing landscape and nature for themselves. Our politicians are already well on the way to recognising the health benefits of nature, but now science has provided them with compelling arguments to begin investing public money in nature-based solutions. Scottish Natural Heritage, the government agency for nature, has been the champion of that through its support for a wide range of organisations undertaking outdoor learning and social and health programmes in the outdoors. The Wildlife Trust has recently published a comprehensive literature review reduce the risk of falls in those with That’s where governments can help, to undertaken by Essex University on mobility problems. Unless we actively target investment in nature-based solutions the evidence base for the wellbeing seek solitude, places such as hostels to public health challenges. For those that benefits from natural environments provide us with opportunities to can help themselves, there is no better way rich in wildlife. connect with others. This is especially to counter the maladies of modern life than Evidence, for instance, that valuable for those who might to spend time at one of Scotland’s youth regular activity can reduce the otherwise feel isolated or lonely. hostels to experience the beauty of our incidence of chronic conditions such I started by posing a question – are natural world. as cardiovascular disease, obesity, we making the most of what nature Let’s leave the last word to John Muir: and type 2 diabetes. Physical has to offer? For those in the know, we “Everybody needs beauty as well as activity is also associated with are doing OK. But I think we could do bread, places to play in and pray in, where better health and cognitive function more to help more people and especially nature may heal and give strength to body among older people, and can those who might benefit the most. and soul”.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 51 SECTIONLEARN

White-tailed sea eagle

Mat Webster, North West Highland Group Manager, always has an eye on the sky

52 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 LEARN

HOSTELLING BREAKS AND HOLIDAYS WITH A DIFFERENCE WHERE Looking for activity holiday ideas in Scotland? Hostelling holidays are a great way to learn new skills, keep active and meet new people. Led by fully qualified, experienced EAGLES instructors, activity holidays are suitable for all levels of experience and fitness. Groups are kept small, allowing you to take full advantage of the instructor’s expertise and SOAR local area knowledge. Below is a list of activity holidays, but check our website for further details ith mountain peaks, ancient return to the west of Scotland started in 1975 by and be sure to book early pinewood, soaring golden eagles and means of an exciting and ambitious re-introduction to avoid disappointment. Wthe more secretive white-tailed sea programme. Since then, successive imports of eagles, it’s no wonder that Beinn Eighe was chicks from Norway coupled with an increasing Britain’s first National Nature Reserve (NNR). number of wild-bred chicks fledging annually, have A pair of sea eagles have been regulars on the ensured a steady and sustained growth in the crags around Loch Maree in Wester Ross for the naturalised population. Although white-tailed past 16 years, where they have successfully raised eagles have been seen around Shieldaig on chicks. Scottish Natural Heritage, which manages numerous occasions over the past 40 years, it was the UK’s oldest NNR, provides up-to-date not until the young pair tagged ‘red four’ (male) and information on sightings of these majestic birds ‘yellow two’ (female) moved into the area in 2009, from its visitor centre near Kinlochewe (between that they could truly be considered Shieldaig

Gairloch and Torridon). residents once more. Nineonesix-guiding Photograph: Just south of Torridon, Sheildaig Island is home to The white-tailed sea eagle is the largest bird of another pair of sea eagles, who produced two prey in the UK. It has a brown body with a noticeable Torridon Munro Walking Trip chicks in 2017. After an absence of about 60 years pale head and neck, which can look almost white in Three Munros across one from Scotland as a whole, the white-tailed eagle’s an older bird. The short, wedge-shaped tail feathers great long weekend. Beinn of adults are white and, when in flight, it has Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Golden Eagle enormous, broad wings with ‘fingered’ ends. Eighe provide the very You can learn more about the eagles, the best hill walking in the 350-year-old scots pines within the Beinn Eighe Torridon area. (12-16 May reserve and other recent reintroduction projects, and 25-29 August, £345) including red squirrels, at the visitor centre. On a journey along the north-west coast of the Skye Munros Highlands, perhaps when on the North Coast 500 Explore the majestic route, you are never too far away from glimpsing a Cuillin range with our golden eagle. They are often spotted soaring high long-term guiding partner above the remote glens and majestic peaks of on Skye, with the aim of Coigach and Assynt (north of Ullapool) or above the summiting all of the sandy beaches of Durness. They live in the wild, Munro summits, including open moorlands of the north so we recommend the ‘Inaccessible Pinnacle’. always keeping one eye on the sky. Based at Glenbrittle Youth A huge bird of prey, second only to the white- Hostel in the heart of tailed eagle in the UK, the golden eagle has long Skye’s stunning broad wings and a longish tail, and likes to soar and landscapes. (23-30 June glide on air currents, holding its wings in a ‘V’ shape. 2018, 14-21 July 2018 and Eagles have traditional nesting places and 28 July-4 August 2018, territories which may be continuously used by £659) generations of the birds.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 53 CULTURE

LIGHTS, CAMERA … ACTION! With such a rich history, it’s no wonder that film companies love to use Scotland as a location, findsAdam Campbell

Glencoe provided an incredible backdrop for the Bond movie Skyfall

54 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 CULTURE

Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban used Glencoe for the outdoor scenes Photographs: Sony/EON/MGM; Ronald Grant Archive Grant Ronald Sony/EON/MGM; Photographs:

HEN, in the first episode of have helped to make the series the hit show VisitScotland, the tourist agency, has even fantasy drama Outlander, nurse it is, and it has been drawing people from far produced a map highlighting the locations WClaire Randall threads the afield to see the places for themselves. So and created a handy 12-day tour to help fans needle of time and falls backwards through popular have these pilgrimages become that navigate their way from one to the next. the centuries from 1945 to 1743, she is It is being called the “Outlander effect” and immediately confronted by two British Army it is significant (see box), but of course when Redcoats crashing through the undergrowth it comes to film and TV appearances, in pursuit of a group of kilted Highland rebels. Scotland is an old stager. It could, for Her first thought, in voiceover, is that example, just as easily have been called the she “had stumbled onto the set of a “Harry Potter effect”, because surely the cinema company filming a costume drama scene of the Hogwarts Express crossing the of some sort.” It’s a bold line by the Glenfinnan Viaduct (see page 58) on its way filmmakers because she has, of course, to the school for wizards is one of the most done precisely that. recognisable in cinematic history. Or, But it works and the fiction holds – ably alternatively, the “Braveheart effect”, as Mel supported, it has to be said, by the stunning Gibson’s hugely successful 1993 film of Perthshire countryside in which the scene is William Wallace’s life also helped to promote filmed, which remains largely unchanged Scotland into the big league. from how it would have looked in 1743. Some of Braveheart’s most memorable The Kinloch Rannoch setting for the Craigh scenes were filmed in the majestic valley of na Dun time-travel portal in Outlander is one Glencoe, a stone’s throw from Glencoe Youth Mel Gibson in Braveheart of the many stunning Scottish locations that Hostel, which is a magnet for

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 55 CULTURE

The Aberdeenshire village of Portsoy has been used as a location for the remake of Whisky Galore!

The 1959 version of the 39 St Abbs Head was one of the locations Steps used the Brig O’ Turk for the new Avengers film, Infinity War tearoom as a location

filmmakers. Daniel Craig’s James Bond A love of whisky also played a part in large slice of central Scotland but mostly in and his boss M (Judi Dench) were famously bringing the cast and crew of the hit US TV the Trossachs where, memorably, hero-on- upstaged by its glaciated scenery in Skyfall, comedy Parks and Recreation to Islay, when the-run Richard Hannay visits the Brig O’ and it also featured in Rob Roy, starring Liam character Ron Swanson visits in pursuit of Turk tearoom posing as a cyclist. The iconic Neeson as the eponymous outlaw, and his favourite dram, Lagavulin. And luckily for wooden building is still there, serving hungry Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. hostel-goers who share Ron’s tastes, and thirsty visitors to the area. But Scotland’s screen career dates back Port Charlotte Youth Hostel is on hand on Ancient castles are ten a penny in Scotland much further than this and it is bookmarked the island. and among the directors to take advantage – appropriately enough for a whisky-loving Another early appearance for Scotland on was Franco Zeffirelli, who filmedHamlet in nation – by two versions of Whisky Galore!, film was in the 1959 version of John Buchan’s the exquisite ruins of Dunnottar Castle, in which in which a ship carrying 50,000 novel The 39 Steps. Filming took place over a between Dundee and Aberdeen, which cases of the good stuff goes down in the doubled for Elsinore. And Eilean Donan Outer Hebrides, only to be scavenged by Castle, on the road to Skye, had an thirsty locals. The first film, released in 1949, unforgettable cameo in Bond’s The World is was mostly shot on the Hebridean island of Not Enough when it served as the Scottish Barra, with its quaint villages, rocky coastline headquarters of MI6. and wide strands, while the 2016 remake Important as these landscapes are, goes further afield and takes in the Scotland is about more than mountains and Aberdeenshire coastal villages of Portsoy castles, and its main cities, Glasgow and and Pennan, as well as St Abb’s Head in the Ron Swanson from Netflix Edinburgh have, if anything, played a larger Scottish Borders and the famous Central Bar hit Parks and Recreation role as film locations. Edinburgh famously in Glasgow. played itself in Danny Boyle’s gritty urban

56 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 CULTURE

THE OUTLANDER EFFECT

Jamie and Claire – the stars of fantasy drama Outlander

The locations used in Diana stones, as these were made from Eilean Donan castle Gabaldon’s fantasy drama – polystyrene, but do visit to appeared in the Bond film CLOSEST which sees Claire Randall travel Callanish on Lewis or Clava Cairns, The World is Not Enough YOUTH HOSTELS through time to Jacobite near Inverness, if you want to see STIRLING & GLASGOW Scotland in 1743, and fall head their inspiration. story Trainspotting and Lone Scherfig’s over heels for Highland hunk Jamie’s family seat, Lallybroch, CLOSEST romantic drama One Day, and, looking like Jamie Fraser – have been drawing was played by the 15th-century YOUTH HOSTEL the ancient city it is, has been a stalwart in fans in their droves. Midhope Castle outside EDINBURGH period dramas such as Daniel Deronda and Perhaps the most famous of Edinburgh, while Preston Mill, in Jude the Obscure. these is Castle Leoch, the East Linton near Edinburgh, More recently it has gone really big- homestead of the Clan Mackenzie. stands in as Lallybroch’s mill. budget with the arrival of film crews from It is mostly filmed at Doune Castle The imposing Blackness Castle on Marvel’s Avengers: Infinity War in the heart near Stirling, but to see Leoch’s the Forth estuary provided the of the Old Town, complete with high-octane grounds you’ll have to travel to setting for the Fort William stunts and explosions. And with Glasgow Glasgow’s Pollok Country Park headquarters of Black Jack Randall, making the perfect stand-in for some US where these scenes are filmed. where Jamie was tortured within an cities, it has, since 2013, doubled for The time-travel portal through inch of his life. CLOSEST YOUTH Philadelphia in the Brad Pitt zombie film which Claire slips, Craigh na Dun, Up country, the Highland HOSTELS CLOSEST AVIEMORE & World War Z, San Francisco in Cloud Atlas, YOUTH was filmed at Kinloch Folk Museum in Newtonmore, CAIRNGORM and New York in Stephen Frears’ comedy HOSTELS Rannoch in sight of the with its 18th-century turf- LODGE PITLOCHRY & drama Florence Foster Jenkins. INVERNESS spectacular Schiehallion roofed crofts, provided the location It is this all-round versatility that has kept mountain, which also featured where Dougal collected rents from Scotland firmly in the frame as a location – widely. Don’t expect any standing clan members in Season 1. and though it will never win an Oscar (unless they change the rules), it is a dead cert to be For more information on locations, including a 12-day Outlander itinerary, see starring in cinemas near you for a long time www.visitscotland.com/see-do/attractions/tv-film/outlander

to come. Features Rex Photograph:

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 57 CULTURE LET THE TRAIN TAKE THE STRAIN

Glenfinnan viaduct is the iconic viaduct on the West Highland Line

58 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 CULTURE

Some of Scotland's best scenery can be seen from the window of a train. Get your ticket today

nspoiled landscapes, Kyle Line and Highland Main Line. diverse wildlife, a colourful Starting off in Glasgow or Edinburgh, head history and breathtaking first to the historic city of Stirling. famed for scenery. We are incredibly its castle and ancient cobbled streets, or take fortunate to not only have a local bus and venture a couple of miles out an amazing country to of town to the Battle of Bannockburn Uexplore, but also a reliable, integrated and Experience and the site of Robert the national network of public transport with Bruce’s famous victory. which to experience it. On to Perth, the Fair City, where you can Leaving the car behind, let’s go on a classic overnight before rejoining the train and taking tour of Scotland (by rail, ferry and bus) that the Highland Main Line towards Inverness. has been popular since Victorian times, and Stop in the pretty Highland Perthshire village travel along the way on some of the most of Pitlochry for lunch or a visit to the beautiful and dramatic rail journeys in the impressive café and shop at the Dam and world – the West Highland Line, Fish Ladder en route to Aviemore.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 59 CULTURE GRAND TOUR TRAVEL PASS Take this trip with a ScotRail Scottish Grand Tour travel pass for just £89. The travel pass gives you time to explore along the way, and enjoy travel by train, ferry and You can easily spend a week or more place, or keep going coach on just one ticket. runs beside the enjoying the many outdoor experiences on to Armadale, in the Find out more at www.scotrail. railway at a number of offer in and around Aviemore. We south of the island, co.uk/grand-tour stations, including recommend you enjoy a ride from the golden where you can catch the Rannoch, Corrour and age of steam on the Strathspey Railway to CalMac ferry on the short Bridge of Orchy as well as Boat of Garten and then take in some osprey crossing back to the mainland at Crianlarich. The line to Oban and spotting at the nearby RSPB reserve. Mallaig and the West Highland Line to onward ferry connections to the Western Alternatively, take the Mountain Railway for Fort William. Isles divides here, but we’re heading on south panoramic views from the top of CairnGorm The section from Mallaig to Fort William is and are soon rewarded with the first Mountain or visit Rothiemurchus Estate to recognised as possibly the greatest rail glimpses of Loch Lomond with Ben Lomond take part in a huge range of activities, from journey in the world – and for good reason. beyond. walking and pony hacking to quad biking Frequently used as a film location, you’ll pass Alight at Arrochar and Tarbet to take a and tree top adventures on the TreeZone near the silver sands of Morar (from Local cruise on the Loch, or keep going the final high ropes. Hero) and over the Glenfinnan Viaduct (from few miles as the line cuts back to skirt the Families will be entertained at the Harry Potter). As you pass over the viaduct, Clyde sea lochs and estuary en route back Landmark Forest Adventure Park in and depending on the time of year, look to into your final destination, Glasgow. Carrbridge; or be an Outlander and step back the setting sun in the west and the poignant monument to the Jacobite rising at the head of Loch Shiel. Glen Falloch, on the “MALLAIG TO Fort William has lots to see and do, as you way to Craianlarich would expect from the outdoor capital of FORT WILLIAM Scotland. Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis, IS RECOGNISED and the Caledonian Canal’s Neptune’s Staircase are just two local attractions but AS POSSIBLY you can also try mountain biking, quad THE GREATEST bike tours, wildlife safaris, gorge walking, RAIL JOURNEY white water rafting, canyoning, or bushcraft skills, to name but a few. IN THE WORLD” The final leg of the journey, from Fort William to Glasgow, will take you across in time to the 1700s at the Highland Folk the vast and haunting Rannoch Moor Museum, Newtonmore. (where the railway literally floats on top Next stop is Inverness where you can of the moor) and down to Crianlarich. spend some time exploring the Highland The West Highland Way Capital. Hire a bike and cycle part of the Great Glen Way, take a boat trip on Loch Ness, enjoy a bus tour of the city or head out to Culloden battlefield – the last The Mamore viaduct on the hand-to-hand battle fought on British soil. Mallaig to Fort William route On leaving Inverness take the Kyle Line as it curves around the western edge of the Beauly Firth to Dingwall before heading west through the valleys of Strath Bran and Glen Carron, before the final few miles alongside the coastline of Loch Carron into the small port of Kyle of Lochalsh on the West Coast. One of the most beautiful rail journeys, through mountain and glen, why not disembark on the way at the picturesque village of Plockton and take a boat trip to see wild seals. Switching from train to bus head over the Skye Bridge to the jagged-peaked Isle of Skye. Overnighting in Broadford you can spend a few days exploring this magical

60 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 SCOTWAYS Asserting and defending public access since 1845

EXPLORESCOTLAND ON THE RUN Guided running tours throughout Scotland

ScotWays signs are a familiar and welcome sight in Scotland’s countryside. But they’re just one part of our work for public access –

• Providing authoritative advice on rights and legislation • Managing the National Catalogue of Rights of Way • Promoting Heritage Paths “Why walk… when you can run?” • Publishing maps and guides, like Scottish Hill Tracks • Resisting developments that impact on public access and amenity quote SYHA10 - for 10% off Join us today in our work to safeguard and promote access – your support strengthens our hand. www.scotways.com • www.heritagepaths.co.uk 24 Annandale Street, Edinburgh, EH7 4AN www.runthesights.co.uk [email protected] • 0131 558 1222 [email protected] • 07548 203 139

CULTURE Photograph: This is Edinburgh is This Photograph:

A sightseeing walk on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile makes history fun WA L K THIS WAY You don’t need your hiking boots to see the sights in many of our towns and cities

cotland is one of the most stunning shots taken out of condensation-covered countries on the planet. And while windows as you whizz past major sites with BOOTS ON THE GROUND FOR GLASGOW’S MURAL TRAIL Speople often rightfully discuss its only the briefest explanation! breathtaking mountains and lochs, Scotland is Scotland is home to some of the best tour also home to some very picturesque urban guides in the world, many of whom are not areas, with Edinburgh routinely being voted only proud advocates of the country’s one of the world’s most beautiful capital cities. history but are great story-tellers too. It comes as no surprise then that tours in Spending a few hours with one of these Scottish towns and cities continue to grow in guides will give you a true appreciation of popularity, and there are plenty of reasons Scotland, offering you the opportunity to why visitors are choosing to get out on their learn about our towns and cities from feet to enjoy our urban landscapes, rather someone who is genuinely passionate about than sitting on a bus. them, while also giving you the chance to Walking tours help to keep Scotland walk with them and ask questions, for more beautiful - with no emissions from vehicles - information, and for their personal local and also gives visitors the chance to get up recommendations as well. close and personal with some of our cities’ Now, we know what you might be best sites. The narrow alleys, hidden thinking: how does a walking tour cope with courtyards and dramatic castles are a big part the notorious Scottish weather? Well, the of what give Scotland its charm, and often great Scottish comedian Billy Connolly said: these gems can only be accessed by foot. “There are two seasons in Scotland – June We also love that walking tours allow and winter”. We’d take it a step further, visitors to get more involved in the fascinating proudly telling you that summer came on a history behind many of Scotland’s best sites. Thursday last year. The truth is though that Incredible true tales and captivating Scottish the Scottish weather has a reputation far Glasgow Residents, by the artist Smug can be seen at folklore need a few moments to be completely more severe than it deserves, and even Ingram Street car park appreciated, and you’ll definitely want time to when the rain does come down and the wind compose some impressive photos – no blurry does get up, we choose to think of it as part

62 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 A view of Princes Street in Edinburgh

THE NARROW ALLEYS, HIDDEN COURTYARDS AND DRAMATIC CASTLES ARE A BIG PART OF WHAT GIVES SCOTLAND ITS of the experience. You won’t struggle to find joined in the very reasonable £10 range. CHARM, AND OFTEN anyone selling ponchos and raincoats across Need more convincing that walking tours our fair cities, and walking tours can actually are the best way to see Scotland’s towns THESE GEMS CAN be better than bus tours on a bad weather and cities? Then just think about the extra ONLY BE ACCESSED day anyway; you might get a little more rain beer, Scotch, haggis and shortbread you’ll be BY FOOT on your face, but bus windows can be difficult able to enjoy after having burnt those to see out of on a wet day. calories off! While some of our great cities do Without the expensive overheads of have a hill or two to climb to get from site to WA L K vehicles to maintain, walking tours also have site, we promise that you’ll be enjoying your the advantage of being more wallet-friendly. walking tour so much, you You’re likely already familiar with the won’t even notice free tour concept that’s available in that you’re getting many European cities, guaranteeing a workout too. THIS WAY that the tours will fit within your One of the many budget, but even those tours SANDEMANs hidden closes in that do have fixed New Europe Tours – Edinburgh’s old town fees attached to www.neweuropetours.eu/ them can often be edinburgh

BOOTS ON THE GROUND FOR GLASGOW’S MURAL TRAIL Glasgow could never be find a floating taxi but also wildlife that can be found in the ‘Big Yin’ from different times described as shy and retiring. ‘Honey, I Shrunk the Kids’. If you Glasgow’s parks and green in his life. Embracing the concept of street stand at just the right angle it’s spaces – but be warned, due to The first Glasgow artwork art, Glasgow has launched a city a great photo opportunity to the size of this mural you might was produced back in 2008 and centre mural trail. These epic capture the giant girl with the have trouble fitting it all into one the idea has since spread out pieces of art bring new life to the magnifying glass plucking a photograph! across the city creating the city’s brickwork, brightening up passerby off the street. There’s not one but three mural trail walking route. local areas and giving local Not to be outdone by murals to celebrate the 75th For more information see artists such as Rogue One, Edinburgh, Glasgow’s very own birthday of one of the city’s https://peoplemakeglasgow. Smug and James Klinge a Panda can be found around the much-loved sons, comedian com/things-to-do/city- chance to showcase their talent. corner in Gordon Lane. Or why Billy Connolly. The murals by centre-mural-trail Starting the mural trail on not head east to the Ingram Jack Vettriano, John Byrne and Mitchell Street, not only will you Street car park for a look at the Rachael Maclean each depict

Billy Connolly designed by John Byrne and painted by Rogue One

Billy Connolly designed The World’s Most Honey I Shrunk the Kids by Jack Vettriano Economical Taxi by Rogue One by Smug, (Sam Bates) All Glasgow mural images, except Jack Vettriano mural image, VisitScotland/Kenny Lam VisitScotland/Kenny image, mural Jack Vettriano except images, mural All Glasgow

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 63 ADVERTISING FEATURE

FOOD & DRINK

A TALE OF TWO WHISKIES Whisky is enjoying a golden age, and with new distilleries opening up, it’s in even better shape

hisky is synonymous with With around 120 whisky distilleries now in Scotland, and has traditionally Scotland, this trend is evident from the heart Top: Clydeside Distillery is returning Wbeen dominated by the large of Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow, to one of whisky to Glasgow after 100 year global brands appealing to the mainstream. the smallest Hebridean islands in the north. gap. This picture: Raasay Distillery is With the growing trend in craft spirits, a At just 14 miles long and four miles wide, the the first legal distillery on the island refreshing new generation of whisky island of Raasay is home to one of the producers are coming to the market, country’s newest craft distilleries. Whether breathing new life into Scotland’s most you’re a city break type or an outdoors famous and well-loved export. traveller there’s a distillery destination for you.

66 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 The copper stills at Raasay Distillery

Raasay Distillery has a popular tour

Clydeside Distillery is in a Traditional nosing glasses former pump house for sampling whisky

Book a tour at Clydeside Distillery to see how whisky is made

ISLAND LIFE “IT WILL BE 2020 Sitting between the Riverside Museum The Isle of Skye is on many travellers’ bucket and SSE Hydro, in an area known as the lists for its breathtaking mountains. Boasting BEFORE RAASAY Queen’s Dock, the Clydeside Distillery will arguably one of the best views from any DISTILLERY RELEASES produce the first spirit in the area for more Scottish distillery, the Isle of Raasay Distillery THE FIRST LEGAL ISLE than 100 years. sits a short 20-minute ferry ride off the east Not only has Clydeside returned whisky coast of Skye. OF RAASAY SINGLE making to Glasgow, but it also showcases Raasay offers the experience of a remote MALT SCOTCH WHISKY” many other whiskies from around Hebridean island without a difficult access Scotland in its visitor centre. It’s reflective route. The ferry leaves regularly from elegant, exceptionally diverse island itself, of its ancestral ties to distilleries across Sconser which is only around 12 miles from made in small batches from the purest Scotland and celebrates the Queen’s Dock both Skye’s main town of Portree and in the volcanic mineral water. history of whisky exports once passing other direction Broadford, both of which host In the meantime, you can discover the through regularly. Scottish youth hostels. flavour profile of the future whisky at the The tour offers an insight into the whisky From its stills hall and visitor centre distillery itself and in selected places on Skye industry as well as experience of distillation the Cuillin mountain range rises proud – with Raasay While We Wait single malt, and tasting of a range of Scotch whiskies. sometimes into the clouds. Not a bad which is crafted to represent the style of There’s also a Blenders Room where you can view to enjoy a dram to. whisky we’re all waiting for. try whisky with delicious cheeses, and you The Isle of Raasay Distillery officially Raasay is also famous for beautiful hiking can even label your own bottle to take home began producing spirit in September 2017 trails, including a moderate climb to the as a souvenir. after 14 months converting the Victorian top of Dun Caan with its iconic flat top. With the tour complete, you’re Borodale House – formally the estate Raasay House, which is easily seen as perfectly placed to head into town manager’s home and later a hotel – into the you arrive on the ferry offers a range for some shopping or to explore the distillery visitor centre and whisky club of activities at their outdoor centre. city’s galleries and eateries. And rooms. The adjacent production unit and you’re only a 12-minute drive or warehousing are situated on the hill behind. CITY CENTRE 25-minute walk from the youth It’s the first legal distillery to exist on In direct contrast, and located in an old hostel in Glasgow’s popular west the island. In this part of the world illicit pump house on the banks of the River end, passing through the Finnieston stills hiding spirit from the taxman were Clyde, the aptly named Clydeside area with its collection of trendy once rife and you can still come across secret Distillery has recently opened its bars and restaurants. distillers’ caves. doors, welcoming everyone from Both Clydeside and Raasay It will be 2020 before Raasay Distillery Glasgow natives and Scottish distilleries are open all year round, releases the first legal Isle of Raasay Single whisky lovers to international so whenever you’re planning to Malt Scotch Whisky in history. Raasay whisky enthusiasts, tourists and explore Scotland, make sure you

Glasgow photographs: Graham Sheach Graham photographs: Glasgow whisky will be a taste of the ruggedly anyone visiting the city. pay them a visit.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 67 FOOD AND DRINK One of the great things about hostelling is being able rustle up a tasty meal in one of our self-catering kitchens after a day exploring. Here are some tried-and-tested hosteller recipes from a few of our guests to give you some culinary inspiration WHAT’S COOKING?

IAN’S TERRIFIC TATTIE Ian says: “When I return from a day out walking or cycling I don’t feel much in the mood for shopping. So I usually have the basics for a hearty meal with me. One of my hostel favourites is baked potato stuffed with chilli beans and topped with cheese”.

What you’ll need: ●● 1 large potato Douglas treated his ●● 1 small white onion, sliced wife at Loch Ossian ●● ½ clove of garlic, crushed ●● ¼ tsp chilli powder ●● 1 tin of baked beans ROMANTIC SEAFOOD DINNER bringing with them fresh How to make it: ●● 30 gms grated cheese Last year hosteller Douglas langoustines from their local Cook the langoustines for ●● 1 tsp oil “treated his wife to some fine Glasgow fish shop. 2-3 minutes in boiling water. ●● Pinch of salt to taste cuisine at the wonderful Loch In a frying pan, heat the butter Ossian Youth Hostel” .The pair What you’ll need: and oil before adding the How to make it: took the train to Corrour and ●● Langoustines cooked langoustines and Pierce the potato a few times arrived at Loch Ossian Youth ●● Oil and butter for frying plenty of chopped garlic until with a knife and microwave Hostel late afternoon one Friday, ●● Cloves of garlic, chopped cooked through. on high for 5-6 minutes. While the potato is cooking, sauté the onion and garlic in GO BANANAS FOR THELMA’S FRUITY ICE CREAM! the oil until it starts to colour, This simple and healthy treat timing if you’ve been out and then add chilli powder. Cook comes from hosteller Thelma. about exploring. for a minute then add a full tin When you’re ready, mash of beans, allow to simmer and What you’ll need: or blend the banana in a bowl reduce to a thick consistency. ●● 1 or 2 bananas until smooth and serve with Cut the cooked potato in ●● Fresh raspberries or other your favourite berries or add half and scoop out most of fruit to serve chopped walnuts for added the potato, add this to the crunch. beans and stir in. Fill the How to make it: potato skins with the bean Peel and slice bananas into Top tip mixture and top with grated 5cm chunks and pop into a zip For firmer ice cream pop the cheese. Pop into the lock bag or container in the container back in the freezer microwave for 30 seconds TASTY freezer overnight or for at for around an hour. SUMMERTIME to melt the cheese. TREAT least six hours – perfect

68 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 FOOD AND DRINK

EAT LIKE A LOCAL Sometimes you need insider knowledge to find the best places to eat and drink

cotland’s natural larder can CABERFEIDH GASTRO PUB, LOCHINVER comfortably hold its own when Located in Lochinver, close to our Smatched against the country’s Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel, the spectacular scenery as a top reason Caberfeidh Gastro Pub serves up amazing to visit Scotland. seafood dishes in a pub setting. From We love our home-grown produce, from ludicrously good langoustines to enormous fresh fish and shellfish to premium beef, beer-battered cod goujons and grilled goat’s lamb, wild game, fresh fruit and vegetables. cheese with red onion marmalade, ignore There’s always a plentiful supply of local the rustic feel of the interior and enjoy ingredients available if you fancy cooking up Scottish seafood at its best! a storm in one of our hostel kitchens. www.thecaberfeidh.co.uk If you’re pushed for time or simply fancy a night off from cooking but don’t know where CAFÉ FISH, TOBERMORY The Seafood Shack, to go, then it’s always good to ask a local. Ullapool Fresh local seafood and To help steer you in the right direction we shellfish in a relaxed asked our teams across the country for their atmosphere as thoughts on the best places to enjoy a perfect THE SEAFOOD SHACK, ULLAPOOL you watch the slice of Scottish fare, from fine dining Established by local lassies Kirsty Scobie and sun sink over restaurants to chip shops and everything Fenella Renwick (pictured above) in 2016, the the harbour. between. These are only a few examples of the Seafood Shack is a high-quality takeaway As the menu many fine eateries that have set up across the serving beautifully cooked seafood that has points out country, putting their own twist on traditional been caught and landed locally and bought “the only Scottish cuisine. We hope you find the straight from the fisherman. The pair have things frozen suggestions helpful and you enjoy discovering already reeled in the awards with accolades are our the true taste of Scotland for yourself. including Scottish Food Awards Speciality fishermen”. Outlet of the Year and Best Street Food at the Book ahead, THE LAROCH BAR AND BBC Food and Farming Awards 2017. especially if you want RESTAURANT, BALLACHULISH www.seafoodshack.co.uk that harbour view! A short drive from Glencoe Youth Hostel, the www.thecafefish.com Laroch offers a “Highland dining experience THE SHILLING BREWING CO, GLASGOW not to be missed”. Great value for money if you’re looking for a THE AULD SMIDDY INN, PITLOCHRY Fresh Scottish produce lovingly prepared casual night out in the city. This bar offers a Set in a former blacksmith’s forge, the Auld by Michelin Star chef Allan Donald, served in fantastic range of craft beers and gin, Smiddy Inn serves locally sourced, a warm and friendly atmosphere. friendly service and some of the best wholesome Scottish fare and a range of Advance booking is pizzas in Glasgow. Try the haggis Scottish beers from the Inveralmond recommended and they pizza, served with the Irn Bru Brewery in nearby Perth. The traditional will cater for vegans if and chilli jam crust dipper, Scotch egg starter, with black pudding and given notice. lovely! sausage surrounded by a hollandaise style www.thelaroch www.shillingbrewing sauce, is not to be missed. restaurantandbar.co.uk company.co.uk www.auldsmiddyinn.co.uk

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 69 NEIGHBOURING NETWORKS Discover the delights offered by youth hostels around the world

ENGLAND & WALES WORLD-CLASS HOSTEL OPENS

The dorms are Sill, the 86-bed ready to go hostel from YHA BELGIUM RENEWED HOSTEL YHA The Sill at Hadrian’s Wall school and group use and is the latest hostel to be relaxing social areas. IN BRUSSELS opened by YHA England & Eighteen of the two and Bruegel hostel, situated in the heart Wales. Opened in four bed rooms are en suite of Belgium’s capital, is back in partnership with with two being fully DDA business and waiting for you! Northumberland National compliant. All bedrooms Park, the state-of-the-art have free Wi-Fi and Salto More beds and more comfort youth hostel is perfect for exploring the Hadrian’s key card access. Bruegel is one of the oldest HI Wall World Heritage site as well as Sycamore Gap There’s plenty to keep you occupied at night hostels in Belgium and, after 35 and the Roman fort at Vindolanda. during your stay. YHA The Sill at Hadrian’s Wall is years of intensive use, the building The 86-bed hostel has everything you’d located in a Dark Skies area which means it’s needed some renovations. The expect from YHA including classrooms for great for star gazing as there’s no light pollution. existing building received a complete makeover and there is a new extension with 24 extra rooms. IRELAND Special attention was given to Knockree Conservation the common areas, where people Plan under way can meet and share experiences. There’s a new lounge, which is 2017 was a busy year for An Óige – the Irish connected to the courtyard, a quiet Youth Hostel Association. Amid ongoing and nice area where guests can changes and restructuring within the escape from the city hustle. organisation, it still managed to take part in There’s free Wi-Fi in the entire several important projects. An important building – also in the rooms – and one was the Five-Year Conservation Plan USA breakfast is included. for its site at Knockree Hostel in Enniskerry, County Wicklow, which was officially NEW ORLEANS Say HI to Brussels launched by the Minister of State for Food, OPENS ITS DOORS Looking for a great place to stay in Forestry and Horticulture, Andrew Doyle TD. the heart of Brussels without The plan aims at preserving, restoring and Located on Canal Street, HI New Orleans will spending a fortune? It’s possible! enhancing the habitats and biodiversity of open in autumn 2018. Featuring an ample supply Bruegel hostel is located about the area around Knockree Hostel. The aims of dorm and private rooms, each bed will offer a 500m from Central Station. of the plan will be achieved through a reading light, charging station, privacy curtain Brussels’ top attractions such as combination of volunteer and luggage locker. You’ll also find an onsite café the Grote Markt, Manneken Pis and work, liaising with other and regularly scheduled tours and activities. Magritte Museum are all within environmental organisations, easy reach. further grant applications, For more information, including ideas on how and the support of An Óige. to spend your time in New Orleans, visit www.hihostels.be/brussels www.hiusa.org/neworleans

70 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018 NEIGHBOURING NETWORKS

NETHERLANDS STAYOKAY’S NEWEST HOTSPOT IN TRENDY UTRECHT Skiing in Finland

If you’re a culture freak, relaxed vibes is where night owl or shopaholic, The Fifth lounge guests from the Utrecht will entertain you. is a popular spot Netherlands and from all And then there’s the over the world as well as hostel; the newest of locals can meet. It is the best Stayokay’s hostels in the place to chill out. The bar FINLAND Netherlands. serves local beers, delightful GET YOUR SKI Stayokay director cocktails and small dishes Marijke Schreiner says: made from local produce. FIX IN FINLAND “This is our flagship But you can also get down to Finnish Lapland is as close as it gets hostel, a place where everyone or you can find a mobile business if you just have to to a winter wonderland. Lapland feels at home. Here you can workplace. There is something get some work done – only in hostels give you a chance to have a drink with friends for everyone.” a very pleasant and relaxed discover the beauty of this country during a performance by a way according to Stayokay’s and the popular ski resorts in the local band, you can meet The Fifth style. area. The ski season starts in late people from all over the world, This trendy lounge with www.stayokay.com/en October, and high season spans February until the snow melts in

AUSTRALIA early May. Finland is also one of the best places on Earth to spot the NEW BYRON BAY northern lights (aurora borealis) – YHA UNDER WAY they appear on more than 200 nights a year in Finnish Lapland. Travellers heading to the beachside paradise of Byron Bay in northern New South Wales can Kuusamo, the winter wonderland look forward to a bigger and better YHA hostel Kuusamo is known for its natural this summer, with a massive redevelopment beauty. Fells and forests reach as far revealed in January 2018. as the eye can see, a wilderness Byron Bay is one of Australia’s most popular split by lakes, rivers and rapids. Ruka backpacking hotspots. Learn to surf, chill out on heart of the town, Byron Bay YHA is getting is one of the biggest ski resorts in the beach, walk through the rainforest or along even bigger and better. Work is underway on an Finland and has been awarded Best the coast and sample Byron’s famous café, bar extension of the hostel – including an entire Ski Resort in Finland several times. and restaurant scene. brand new wing – to add extra beds and modern It’s easy to see why – the slopes are Located just a stroll from the beach in the new facilities to the property. well-maintained, while the skiing is exciting. www.ruka.fi/en Stay at Hostel Nuoriso- ja SLOVENIA luontomatkailukeskus Oivanki. SLOVENIA Ruka slopes are only a 20km drive HAS IT ALL away and Oulanka National Park Slovenia is a small country in with its nature attractions and central Europe, located next to hiking trails is also nearby. Hungary, Austria, Italy and Croatia, and offers a lot. You Saariselkä, the northernmost can go skiing in the morning Much of Slovenia’s ski resort in Europe and see the Adriatic Sea at countryside is lush The legendary Saariselkä is the the evening. northernmost travel destination in Slovenia’s coast is only 43 the city centre. If you want a hip you’ll need a couple of days, the European Union and boasts a kilometres, long but it offers area with nightlife, remember so we recommend staying in variety of services. Spanning the charming towns, good food to visit Metelkova and see the hostel Bledec. slopes of two fells, the ski resort and the highest cliff in the graffiti. Stay at hostel SlovenIa also has some offers 15 slopes of varying difficulty, Adriatic Sea. Tresor, which used to amazing traditional including a Freestyle Park. Within If you’re looking for a city be a bank vault. food. From the Saariselkä area alone, there are with a soul, go to Ljubljana Bled is one of the prekmurska 200 kilometres of well-maintained (pronounced lyub-lee-yana). most popular tourist gibanica, a dessert cross-country skiing pistes. The city has a population of areas in Slovenia and Bled is beautiful consisting of apples, www.inarisaariselka.fi/en 250,000 and welcomes for good reason. People walnuts, poppy seeds, Stay at Hostel Ahopää between tourists. Sail on Ljubljanica river come here for the delicious curd cheese and layers of Ahopää and Kiilopää hills, next to the and see all the bridges of the cream cake, and of course, for pastry, to žlikrofi, small Urho Kekkonen National Park. Skiing city or head to Ljubljana castle, the picturesque island in the dumplings filled with potato, tracks start from the courtyard. which combines old and new middle of the lake. If you want onion, smoked bacon, herbs and sits on top of the hill above to visit all the beauties in Bled, and spices. Book your stay at www.hostellit.fi

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 71 If you would like to advertise in Scottish Hosteller magazine please contact Clare Stebbing

E: [email protected] T: 0131 561 0024

Cycle 11 years of Service Orkney and Experience

• Hire Bikes • Servicing • Repairs • Accessories • Warhammer • Kites • Skateboards

Web: www.cycleorkney.com Tankerness Lane, Tel: 01856 875 777 Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1AQ AFFILIATENEWS A ROUND-UP OF THE LATEST NEWS FROM OUR AFFILIATE HOSTELS

NEW AFFILIATE HEART OF THE HIGHLANDS FOR 2018! The Cairngorms Adventure The Lodge sleeps up to 68 Centre, Craigower Lodge, is people in 12 rooms at affordable located in Newtonmore just south rates. There are two large of Aviemore. It is the ideal location kitchens, two large lounges and for anyone looking to visit the a separate dining room. It is Cairngorms whether as a group, perfect for groups as the lodge family, friends or an individual. The can be separated into two areas centre is perfect for hillwalkers to allow for exclusive use. The with the Monadhliath Mountains lodge is open all year and and Cairngorm Mountain Range welcomes groups and right on the doorstep, ideal for individuals for mountaineering paddlers with the River Spey meet ups, paddling trips, and Findhorn under an hour’s adventure breaks and stop over The Cairngorms Adventure Centre, Craigower Lodge drive and well suited for mountain stays. There is storage for bikes bikers too. and an efficient drying room.

A WEE TASTE OF SCOTLAND

Loch Ness Backpackers’ residents-only The changes to the bar have had a bar now offers an impressive 75+ beers, all positive effect on the overall guest exclusively Scottish, and the range is experience at Loch Ness Backpackers as always growing. Owner Patrick is proud of more people choose to spend their the wide selection and insists that there is evening sitting in the bar chatting to other something for everyone: “I’m a huge guests and sampling some of the beers Celebrating friends of nature beer enthusiast myself so I try all of the on offer. “Even beyond the drinks Kirk Yetholm has been welcoming outdoor beers and hold regular tastings for the selection, we have been pleasantly lovers for 75 years. staff so that the team can always surprised to find that so many of our To mark the anniversary, the house is recommend something to suit each guests share our passions,” Patrick supporting the global movements of Nature guest’s tastes. Likewise for those explains. Friends International and International Young guests who are not big beer But for those of you who know Nature Friends for €1,000 and €500 drinkers, we try to offer beer is not your thing, do not fear – respectively each year for the next five years. suggestions that just might change there are more than 25 Scotch their mind – and we’re pretty whiskies, a selection of Scottish gins For more details of each please check out successful!” and plenty of other options. the websites: www.nf-int.org and www.iynf.org YOU CAN SLEEP SOUNDLY The team at Morag’s Lodge, and during their most recent old wooden bunks). Fort Augustus, pride Green Tourism Grading they Sustainability is about the themselves on their achieved an even higher future, and the future is our commitment to delivering score, firmly recognising their young people. traditional Highland Gold level achievements. To help VisitScotland hospitality, being guided by Their list of sustainability celebrate the Year of Young what their guests want, and practices is endless, ranging People 2018, Morag’s Lodge delivering it in the most from using eco products, will be offering free meals to sustainable way possible. automatic lighting, recycling, all children staying at the The hostel made it to the final and a paperless office, to hostel with the hope it will of the Highland Tourism some very creative encourage more families to Morag’s Lodge has Awards in the Best upcycling (they have done take advantage of their high eco standards Accommodation category some amazing things with family-friendly facilities.

2018 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 73 COMPETITION PHOTOGRAPHY WINNERS We reveal the winners of last year’s landscape photography competition 1st

hanks to everyone who sent in their amazing photographs of Scotland – we T loved looking through them all. We picked three winners, and they have all received their prizes of Vaude rucksacks. Happy travels!.

First prize: MiJan Kopankiewicz was our winner and took this shot of an icy landscape at the top of Beinn Dubh near Luss. Second prize: Andrew Fellowes visited Stirling, and captured the National Wallace Monument in the evening light. Third prize:Sango sands beach at Durness was empty when Abigail Hill took this photograph.

Our photography competition is taking a break for 2018, but see below for ways to stay in touch.

3rd

2nd

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Do you have an Instagram-worthy picture or a top tip for hostelling that you would like to share with us? Then remember to use the new hashtag #HostellingScotland

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74 SCOTTISH HOSTELLER 2018

Surprising experiences Euchdan iongantach! Scotland

Conquer the mountain bike trails

Amazing wildlife encounters

With 6 visitor centres, trails to suit everyone and breath-taking mountains and loch views - create unforgettable moments in the forests across Scotland.

Call us on 0300 067 6156 Follow us on www.forestry.gov.uk/scotland