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Southern

Why Go? BORDERS REGION ....138 Though folk in northern England are well aware of its St Abbs ...... 138 charms, for many others southern Scotland is just some- thing to drive through on the way to northern Scotland. Jedburgh ...... 147 Big mistake. But it does mean there’s breathing room here Hermitage ...... 149 in summer, and peaceful corners. SOUTH Southern Scotland’s proximity to England brought raid- LANARKSHIRE ...... 151 ing and strife; grim borderland fortifi cations saw skirmish- New ...... 151 ing aplenty. There was loot to be had in the Borders, where large prosperous abbeys bossed agricultural communities. & ARRAN ..153 Regularly ransacked before their destruction in the Refor- ...... 155 mation, their ruins, linked by cycling and walking paths, & are among Scotland’s most atmospheric historic sites. ...... 166 The hillier west enjoys extensive forest cover between Galloway Forest Park ..174 bustling market towns. The hills cascade down to sandy stretches of coastline blessed with Scotland’s sunniest weather. It’s the land of Robert Burns, whose verse refl ected his earthy attitudes and active social life. Off shore, Arran is Best Places to an island jewel off ering top cycling, walking and scenery. Stay » Corsewall When to Go Hotel (p177 ) Ayr » Churches Hotel (p140 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 10/250 » Kildonan Hotel (p159 ) 30/86 8/200 » Cringletie House (p 149 ) 20/68 6/150 » SYHA (p 159 ) 10/50 4/100 Best Places to Eat 0/32 2/50 -10/14 0 & Drink J FDNOSAJJMAM » Cobbles Inn (p143 ) » Sunflower Restaurant May If winter June The perfect Autumn Hit Gal- hasn’t been too time to visit the loway’s forests to (p 150 ) wet, lace the region’s numerous see red deer bat- » Fouter’s (p 163 ) hiking boots and stately homes, tling it out in the » Ship Inn (p 155 ) stride up Arran’s with spectacular rutting season. hills. gardens in bloom. » Nightjar (p 148 ) Loch Fyne ARGYLL 60¸6A78 136 &BUTE

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Southern Scotland Highlights 1 Hiking or cycling between 3 Pondering the tough old (p172 ), and the creative fl air of the noble ruins of the Border life on the England–Scotland its inhabitants Abbeys (p138 ) frontier at desolate Hermitage 5 Learning some Lallans 2 Admiring 18th-century Castle (p149 ) words from the Scottish Bard’s architectural genius at 4 Exploring charming, verses at the new Robert Culzean Castle (p164 ), dignifi ed Kirkcudbright Burns Birthplace Museum perched on wild sea cliff s (p163 ) e 0¸A1 EAST yn #_ LOTHIAN T Cockburnspath #\ Edinburgh 137 St Abbs ##\9 #\ Coldingham #\ Eyemouth MID LOTHIAN Lammermuir 0¸A702 Hills #\ Duns

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6 Whooshing down the mill community of New 9 Plunging the deeps off the forest trails at the 7stanes Lanark (p151 ) picturesque fi shing village of mountain-biking hubs (p175 ) 8 Blowing away the cobwebs St Abbs (p138 ) 7 Marvelling at the radical on the scenic, activity-packed a Browsing secondhand social reform instituted in Isle of Arran (p 155 ) books at Wigtown (p176 ) BORDERS REGION operates between most of the border towns and 138 connects them with Edinburgh. Domestic tourists grease the wheel of the Borders’ economy – they fl ock here from north and south of the border, eager to ex- Cockburnspath plore links to the country’s medieval past. The 16th-century Mercat Cross in Cock- It’s a distinctive region – centuries of war burnspath village square, about a mile in- and plunder have left a battle-scarred land- land from the coast, is the offi cial eastern- scape, encapsulated by the remnants of end start of the Southern Upland Way (see the great Border abbeys. They were an ir- below). There are a couple of B&Bs here, resistible magnet during the Border wars, but no pub; it’s not a particularly inspir- and were destroyed and rebuilt numerous ing place to spend the night, so jump on times. The monasteries met their scorched a bus to nearby Coldingham for accom- end in the 16th century and were never re- modation. built. Today these massive stone shells are Bus 253 running between Edinburgh the region’s fi nest attraction. and Berwick-upon-Tweed stops in Cock- SOUTHERN SCOTLAND But there’s more. Welcoming villages burnspath every two hours or so. with ancient traditions pepper the country- side, one of the best cold-water diving sites in Europe is off the coast, and grandiose Coldingham & St Abbs mansions await exploration. It’s fi ne walk- ing and cycling country too, the gentle hills Coldingham and St Abbs are the two most lush with an artist’s palette of shades of popular places for tourists on this section of green. And don’t miss Hermitage Castle; Scotland’s east coast, a short distance north nothing encapsulates the region’s turbulent of the English border. This picturesque area history like this spooky stronghold. is fantastic for those who love the great out- BORDERS REGION BORDERS doors – there’s loads to do, as evidenced by 8 Getting Around the anglers, scuba divers, birdwatchers and There’s a good network of local buses. First walkers who fl ock here. (%01324-602200; www.fi rstgroup.com)

BORDERS WALKING & CYCLING

The region’s most famous walk is the challenging 212-mile Southern Upland Way (www.southernuplandway.gov.uk). If you want a sample, one of the best bits is the three- to four-day section from St John’s Town of Dalry to Beattock. Another long-distance walk is the 62-mile St Cuthbert’s Way (www.stcuthbertsway.fsnet.co.uk), inspired by the travels of St Cuthbert (a 7th-century saint who worked in Melrose Abbey), which crosses some superb scenery between Melrose and Lindisfarne (in England). In Gal- loway the Pilgrims Way follows a 25-mile trail from Glenluce Abbey to the Isle of Whithorn. The Borders Abbeys Way (www.bordersabbeysway.com) links all the great Border abbeys in a 65-mile circuit. For shorter walks and especially circular loops in the hills, the towns of Melrose, Jedburgh and Kelso all make ideal bases. For baggage transfer on these walks, contact WalkingSupport (%01896-822079; www.walkingsupport.co.uk). In early September, look out for the Scottish Borders Walking Festival (www.borderswalking.com), with nine days of walks for all abilities and an instant social scene. With the exception of the main A-roads, traffi c is sparse, which, along with the beauty of the countryside, makes this ideal cycling country. The Tweed Cycle Way is a waymarked route running 62 miles along the beautiful Tweed Valley, following minor roads from Biggar to Peebles (13 miles), Melrose (16 miles), Coldstream (19 miles) and Berwick-upon-Tweed (14 miles). Jedburgh tourist offi ce (p 148 ) has details. For an island tour, the Isle of Arran off ers excellent cycling opportunities. The 50- mile coast-road circuit is stunning and is worth splitting into two or three days. 1 Sights & Activities St Abbs. The cliff top walks here are spec- From the village of Coldingham, with its tacular, especially on sunny days. There’s a 139 twisting streets, take the B6438 downhill good little nature exhibition (h10am-5pm to the small fi shing village of St Abbs, a Apr-Oct) in the Old Smiddy complex along- gorgeous, peaceful little community with a side. picture-perfect harbour nestled below the cliff s. St Abbs is a great place for walking – 4 Sleeping & Eating head for the car park at the harbour and Rock House BUNKHOUSE, B&B ££ have a stroll over the rocky sea walls to get ( %018907-71945; www.divestabbs.info; St Abbs; a feel of this fabulous location. dm/s/d £18/30/60) Right by the harbour in The clear, clean waters around St Abbs St Abbs, this is run by a friendly dive skip- form part of St Abbs & Eyemouth Volun- per; you can almost roll out of bed onto the tary Marine Reserve (www.marine-reserve. boat. There’s a bunkhouse which is nor- co.uk; Northfi eld, St Abbs), one of the best cold- mally booked up by groups at the weekend, water diving sites in Europe. The reserve is and a sweet room that can sleep up to three. home to a variety of marine life, including There’s also a self-catering cottage here. SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION grey seals and porpoises. Visibility is about St Vedas Hotel HOTEL ££ 7m to 8m but has been recorded at 24m. ( %018907-71679; www.stvedas.co.uk; Colding- Beds of brown kelp form a hypnotically un- ham Bay; s/tw without bathroom £35/60, d £70) dulating forest on the seabed. Just opposite the path down to the beach, Drop by the St Abbs Dive Centre St Vedas is a cheery, British-beach-resort– (%018907-71237; www.stabbs.org/postoffi ce. style hotel. It has a touch of faded grandeur, html) at the post offi ce; these folk provide and is very popular at weekends over sum- plenty of advice on diving in the area. They mer. Rooms are plain but neat and tidy – No SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES also sell and repair (no charge) equipment, 1 is a good double with sea views and en and nothing seems to be too much trouble. suite. Meals are available at the restaurant SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EYEMOUTH Divers can charter boats from Paul Crowe (mains £6-9) and there’s a cafe on the beach (%018907-71945, 07710-961050; www.divest itself in summer. abbs.info) or Paul O’Callaghan (%018907- 71525; www.stabbsdiving.com) among others. 8 Getting There & Away Back in Coldingham try Scoutscroft Bus 253 between Edinburgh and Berwick-upon- (%018907-71669; www.scoutscroft.co.uk; Scout- Tweed (six daily Monday to Saturday, three for pointers scroft Holiday Centre, St Abbs Rd) Sunday) stops in Coldingham and St Abbs, as on the best places to dive in the area and does bus 235, which runs at least hourly from what you’ll likely see. You can also hire Eyemouth. equipment here (full kit per day £60) and organise a boat dive. This professional set- up can kit you up with nitrox tanks, and do Eyemouth a full range of IANTD courses. POP 3383 In Coldingham, a signposted turn-off to Eyemouth is a busy fi shing port and popu- the east leads just under a mile down to lar domestic holiday destination. The har- away-from-it-all Coldingham Bay, which bour itself is very atmospheric – you may has a sandy beach and a cliff top walking even spot seals frolicking in the water, and trail to Eyemouth (3 miles). At St Vedas Ho- tourists frolicking around the boats, snap- tel (p139 ) is St Vedas Surf Shop (www.stve ping pics of old fi shing nets. das.co.uk) where you can hire surfboards The community here suff ered its greatest and snorkelling gear. Surfi ng lessons are catastrophe in October 1881, when a storm also available. destroyed the coastal fi shing fl eet, killing North of St Abbs, the 78-hectare St 189 fi shermen, 129 of whom were locals. Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve (NTS; www.nts.org.uk) is an ornithologist’s Sights wonderland, with large colonies of guil- 1 Eyemouth Museum MUSEUM lemots, kittiwakes, herring gulls, fulmars, (www.eyemouthmuseum.org.uk; Manse Rd; adult/ razorbills and some puffi ns. You get to child £2.50/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am- the reserve by following the 2-mile circu- 4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct) Captivating Eyemouth lar trail that begins beside the Northfi eld Museum has local-history displays, particu- Farm car park (£2) on the road just west of larly relating to the town’s fi shing heritage. Its centrepiece is the tapestry commemo- bathroom £25/50) Plonked on top of the res- 140 rating the 1881 fi shing disaster. taurant of the same name on the main drag, this place has redecorated and refurbished Eyemouth Maritime Centre MUSEUM rooms with muted tones and a luxurious, (www.worldofboats.org; Harbour Rd; adult/ modern feel, positioned right on the water- child/family £3.75/2.50/9; h10am-5pm) Situ- front. Try to get No 3 if you’re after a dou- ated right on Eyemouth’s working fi shing ble, as it’s the only one with sea views. Add harbour, what was once the fi sh market £2.50 per person for continental breakfast, has now been decked out to resemble or a fi ver for the works. an 18th-century man o’war. A changing yearly exhibition occupies most of the in- terior, drawing on the museum’s large col- 8 Information lection of well-loved wooden coastal craft. Tourist office (%018907-50698; eyemouth@ The museum guides are great for extra visitscotland.com; Manse Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Apr-Oct) Very helpful; information. it’s in Eyemouth Museum near the harbour. Gunsgreen House MUSEUM SOUTHERN SCOTLAND (www.gunsgreenhouse.org; adult/child £5/3; 8 Getting There & Away h11am-5pm Thu-Mon Apr-Sep, weekends only Eyemouth is 5 miles north of the Scotland- Mar & Oct) Standing proud and four-square England border. Buses go to Berwick-upon- across the harbour, this elegant 18th- Tweed (15 minutes, frequent), which has a train century John Adam mansion was built on station, and Edinburgh (£5.60, 1¾ hours, six the profi ts of smuggling: Eyemouth was daily Monday to Saturday, three Sunday). an important landing point for the illegal cargoes of ships from northern Europe and the Baltic. The house has been beautifully South of Eyemouth restored to refl ect this and other aspects of

BORDERS REGION BORDERS Further south, 3 miles west of the A1 along its varied past. the B6461, Paxton House (www.paxtonhouse. com; adult/child £7.50/3.50; h11am-5pm Apr- 4 Sleeping & Eating Oct, grounds 10am-sunset Apr-Oct) is beside the oChurches Hotel HOTEL ££ River Tweed and surrounded by parkland ( %01890-750401; www.churcheshotel. and gardens. It was built in 1758 by Patrick co.uk; Albert Rd; s £75, d £85-120; hMar-Oct; Home for his intended wife, the daughter of pW) This is a very stylish place set in Prussia’s Frederick the Great. Unfortunate- an 18th-century building, with rooms ex- ly, she stood him up, but it was her loss; de- uding a cool demeanour and a classical signed by the Adam family – brothers John, look. Each room has a diff erent theme but James and Robert – it’s acknowledged as No 4, with its four-poster bed, and No one of the fi nest 18th-century Palladian 6, with huge windows overlooking the houses in Britain. It contains a large collec- harbour, are our favourites. Little conve- tion of Chippendale and Regency furniture, niences like bottled water and iPod docks and its picture gallery houses paintings are complemented by excellent personal from the national galleries of Scotland. The service from the owners. The menu (mains nursery is a feature designed to provide in- £10 to £16) is blessed with the day’s catch sight into a child’s 18th-century life. In the from the harbour – it’s the best spot in grounds are walking trails and a riverside town for fresh seafood. museum on salmon fi shing. Oblò BISTRO ££ (www.oblobar.com; 20 Harbour St; bar meals £6- 10, dinner mains £12-15; hfood 10am-9pm) For a Duns & Around meal pretty much anytime, fi nd your way POP 2594 upstairs to this modern bar-bistro with its Duns is a peaceful market town in the comfy seating and modish interior. It’s ur- centre of Berwickshire, with some pleas- ban, it’s trendy, it’s just down from the tour- ant walks. You can get to Duns Law (218m) ist offi ce, and it’s got a great deck to lap up in Estate by following Castle the sunshine. Try the local seafood. St up from the square. The summit off ers great views of the Merse and Lammer- Bantry B&B ££ muir Hills. The Covenanter’s Stone marks (Mackays; %018907-51900; www.mackaysofey the spot where the Covenanting armies emouth.co.uk; 20 High St; s/d £40/60, without camped in 1639; a copy of the Covenant was Model Army, the regiment took its present later signed at Duns Castle. name from the town where it was stationed 141 Buses running between Galashiels and in 1659. It played a signifi cant part in the Berwick-upon-Tweed (six to nine daily) stop restoration of the monarchy in 1660 and at Duns. saw service at Waterloo, at Sebastopol dur- ing the Crimean War, in the Boer War, at the Somme and Ypres in WWI, and at Dunkirk Lammermuir Hills and Tobruk in WWII. It remains the old- North of Duns, the low-lying Lammermuir est regiment in continuous existence in the Hills, with their extensive grouse moors, British army and is the only one directly de- rolling farmland and wooded valleys, scended from the New Model Army. run east–west along the border with East Lothian. The hills are popular with walkers 4 Sleeping & Eating and there are numerous trails, including a Eastbraes B&B B&B ££ section of the Southern Upland Way (see ( %01890-883949; www.eastbraes.co.uk; 100C High St; s/d £45/70) Trundling down the p138 ). SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION To the west, the Way can be accessed main street in Coldstream, you simply don’t expect the view you get out the back of at Lauder, where it passes through the this welcoming place; an idyllic vista over grounds of Thirlestane Castle (www. a grassy garden and a picturebook bend in thirlestanecastle.co.uk; castle & grounds adult/ the Tweed just beyond. A double and twin child £10/6, grounds only £3/1.50; h10am-3pm share a bathroom and there’s one en suite Wed, Thu & Sun May-Sep, also Mon & Tue Jul- double, which is simply enormous, and Aug). The narcissism of the aristocracy is comes with a separate sitting area. evident here perhaps more than in most SIGHTS ‘great homes’. Notice how many of the Calico House B&B ££ family portraits adorning the walls look ( %07985-249207; www.bedandbreakfast-luxury HILLS SIGHTS LAMMERMUIR similar? The extensive assemblage here is .co.uk; 44 High St; d/ste £70/90) Set behind a the result of the practice of mass shop that churns out high-quality interior production used at the time. Many of the designs, this is a superb B&B with sump- family have almost identical features, as tuous rooms blessed with great views and the same bodies were used for their por- attention to detail. ‘Cleanliness is next traits with diff erent clothes, faces and to godliness’ could easily be the mantra hands superimposed. Thirlestane is also here. Privacy from your hosts and value home to some of the fi nest plasterwork for money are two very strong points in ceilings in Europe. this excellent accommodation option. The Thirlestane is just outside town, off the rate is £10 less if you stay more than one A68, beside Leader Water. Munro’s buses night. running between Kelso and Edinburgh Besom PUB £ pass by. (www.besom-inn.co.uk; 75 High St; mains £9-11; hlunch & dinner) Cosy, creeper-covered High Street pub with a beer garden and Coldstream solid bar meals. POP 1813 Garth House B&B ££ On a sweeping bend of the River Tweed, (%01890-882477; 7 Market St; s/d £25/60) which forms the border with England, This old bastion is cheap and comfy with Coldstream is small and relatively hidden no frills attached. It’s a basic, old-fash- from the well-trodden Borders tourist beat. ioned B&B – personable, good value and It can be a handy base when nearby Kelso friendly – but nothing flash. If you want is overfl owing. value for money – here it is. 1 Sights

Coldstream Museum MUSEUM 8 Getting There & Away F(12 Market Sq; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, Coldstream is on the busy A697 linking New- 2-4pm Sun Apr-Sep, 1-4pm Mon-Sat Oct) The castle with Edinburgh. There are about six buses proud history of the Coldstream Guards is daily Monday to Saturday (three on Sunday) covered in this museum. Formed in 1650 in between Kelso (20 minutes) and Berwick-upon- Berwick as part of Oliver Cromwell’s New Tweed (45 minutes) via Coldstream. west of Kelso. Built by William Adam in the 142 Kelso POP 5116 1720s, the original Georgian simplicity was Kelso, a prosperous market town with a ‘improved’ in the 1840s with the addition of broad, cobbled square fl anked by Georgian rather ridiculous battlements and turrets. buildings, has a French feel to it and a his- Inside, view the vivid colours of the 17th- toric appeal. During the day it’s a busy little century Brussels tapestries in the drawing place, but after 8pm you’ll have the streets room and the intricate oak carvings in the to yourself. The town has a lovely site at the ornate ballroom. Palatial windows reveal a junction of the Rivers Tweed and Teviot, ribbon of green countryside extending well and is one of the most enjoyable places in beyond the estate. the Borders. Kelso Old Parish Church CHURCH (The Butts; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri May-Sep) 1 Sights Near the abbey, this rare, octagonal Kelso Abbey ABBEY church built in 1773 is intriguing. F(HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Bridge

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND St; h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm 2 Activities Sat-Wed Oct-Mar) Once one of the richest ab- The Pennine Way (www.thepennineway.co.uk), beys in southern Scotland, Kelso Abbey was which starts its long journey at Edale in the built by the Tironensians, an order founded Peak district, ends at Youth at Tiron in Picardy and brought to the Bor- Hostel, about 7 miles southeast of Kelso on ders around 1113 by David I. English raids the B6352. in the 16th century reduced it to ruins, The Borders Abbeys Way (www.border though what remains today is some of the sabbeysway.com) links the great abbeys of fi nest surviving Romanesque architecture Kelso, Jedburgh, Melrose and Dryburgh in Scotland. to create a 65-mile circuit. The Kelso–

BORDERS REGION BORDERS Jedburgh section (12 miles) is a fairly easy CASTLE walk, largely following the River Teviot be- (www. fl oorscastle.com; adult/child £7.50/3.50; tween the towns. The tourist offi ce has a h11am-5pm May-Oct) Grandiose Floors free leafl et with a map and description of Castle is Scotland’s largest inhabited man- the route. sion and overlooks the Tweed about a mile

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3 3 Kelso Bridge ‚To Jedburgh (12mi) A B C D Less-ambitious walkers should leave the til November, the hotel is very busy. Rooms Square by Roxburgh St and take the sign- with a river view cost more. 143 posted alley to Cobby Riverside Walk, a Central Guest House B&B £ pleasant ramble along the river to Floors ( %01890-883664; www.thecentralguesthouse Castle (although you have to rejoin Rox- kelso.co.uk; s/d £30/45) A bargain in some- burgh St to gain admission to the castle). times pricey Kelso and just on the cent- ral square. The owners live off -site so call Sleeping 4 ahead fi rst. The rooms are fi ne: spacious, Old Priory B&B ££ with fi rm beds, new carpets and good bath- o( %01573-223030; www.theoldpriorykel rooms. Rates are room-only, but you get a so.com; 33 Woodmarket St; s/d £50/75; pW) fridge, toaster, and microwave so you can The doubles in this atmospheric place are create your own breakfast. fantastic and the family room has to be seen to be believed; rooms are both sump- Eating & Drinking tuous and debonair with gorgeous dark pol- 5 Cobbles Inn PUB ££ ished wood pieces. The good news extends

( %01573-223548; www.thecobblesinn.co.uk; SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION to the garden – perfect for a coff ee in the 7 Bowmont St; mains £10-16; hlunch & dinner morning – and a most comfortable sitting Tue-Sun) We’ve included the phone number room. The huge windows are another fea- for a reason: this pub off the main square ture, fl ooding the rooms with natural light. is so popular you should book for a meal at Edenbank House B&B ££ weekends. Why does it pack out? Because ( %01573-226734; www.edenbank.co.uk; Sitchill it’s cheery, very welcoming, warm, and Rd; s/d £35/70; p) Half a mile down the road serves excellent upmarket pub food in gen- to Sitchill, this grand Victorian house (no erous portions. There’s a decent wine selec- SLEEPING sign) sits in spacious grounds where only tion and proper coff ee, but the wise leave the bleating of lambs in the green fi elds and room for dessert too. The bar always has an SLEEPING KELSO birds in the garden break the silence. Opu- interesting guest ale or two as well. A crack- lent rooms, warm hospitality, and any-time- ing place. you-like breakfasts featuring homemade Oscar’s BISTRO ££ produce make for an utterly relaxing stay. ( %01573-224008; www.oscars-kelso.com; 33 Ednam House Hotel HOTEL ££ Horsemarket; mains £10-16; hlunch Mon & Wed- o( %01573-224168; www.ednamhouse.com; Sat, dinner Wed-Mon) Posh comfort food and Bridge St; s/d from £78/115; pWc) The genteel, the work of local artists sit side by side in Georgian Ednam House, touched with a this likeable bar-restaurant-gallery in the quiet dignity, contains many of its original centre of town. The menu changes, but features and is the top place in town, with when you see avocados, serrano ham, sea fi ne gardens overlooking the river and the bass, sizzling lamb, hummus, and haggis excellent Ednam House Restaurant. It’s on the same menu, it means one thing: very popular with fi sher folk and during you might have to come back again to try salmon season, from the end of August un- everything. A wide selection of wines ac- companies the food, and you can browse Kelso the exhibition space downstairs while you wait for your plate. æ Top Sights Kelso Abbey...... C2 8 Information Kelso Hospital (%01573-223441; Inch Rd) æ Sights Kelso Library (Bowmont St; hMon-Sat; i) 1 Old Parish Church ...... C2 Free internet access. ÿ Sleeping Tourist office (%01573-223464; www.visit 2 Central Guesthouse ...... B1 scottishborders.com; The Square; hdaily Apr- 3 Ednam House Hotel ...... B2 Nov, Mon-Sat Dec-Mar) 4 Old Priory ...... C1 8 Getting There & Away ú Eating There are six buses daily (three on Sunday) to 5 Cobbles Inn ...... B1 Berwick-upon-Tweed (one hour). Buses run 6 Oscar's ...... C1 to/from Jedburgh (25 minutes, up to 11 daily Monday to Saturday, fi ve Sunday) and Hawick As the last stop on the Pennine Way, 144 (one hour, seven daily Monday to Saturday, four Kirk Yetholm SYHA (%0845 293 7373; www. Sunday). There are also frequent services to syha.org.uk; Kirk Yetholm; dm £15.25; hApr–mid- Edinburgh. Sep) is often busy; book well in advance. Bus 81 from Kelso runs up to seven times a day Monday to Saturday (three times on Around Kelso Sunday). Perched on a rocky knoll above a small lake, the narrow, stone Smailholm Tower (HS; Melrose www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Smailholm; adult/ POP 1656 child £3.70/2.20; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, Tiny, charming Melrose is a polished vil- 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) provides lage running on the well-greased wheels of one of the most evocative sights in the Bor- tourism. This little enclave is a complete ders and the bloody uncertainties of contrast to overbearing Galashiels, whose its history alive. Although the displays in- urban sprawl laps at its western edges. SOUTHERN SCOTLAND side are sparse, the panoramic view from Sitting at the feet of the three heather- the top is worth the climb. covered Eildon Hills, Melrose has a clas- The nearby farm, Sandyknowe, was sic market square and one of the great owned by Sir Walter Scott’s grandfather. abbey ruins. As Scott himself recognised, his imagina- tion was fi red by the ballads and stories he 1 Sights heard as a child at Sandyknowe, and by the Melrose Abbey ABBEY ruined tower a stone’s throw away. (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child The tower is 6 miles west of Kelso, a mile £5.20/3.10; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am- south of Smailholm village on the B6397. 4.30pm Oct-Mar) Perhaps the most inter- BORDERS REGION BORDERS You pass through the farmyard to get to the esting of all the great Border abbeys, the tower. Munro’s bus 65 between Melrose and red-sandstone Melrose Abbey was repeat- Kelso stops in Smailholm village. edly destroyed by the English in the 14th century. The remaining broken shell is MELLERSTAIN HOUSE pure Gothic and the ruins are famous for Finished in 1778, Mellerstain House (www. their decorative stonework – see if you can mellerstain.com; Gordon; adult/child £7/3.50; glimpse the pig gargoyle playing the bag- h12.30-5pm Sun & Wed May, Jun & Sep, plus Mon pipes on the roof. You can climb to the top & Thu Jul & Aug, Sun only Oct) is considered to for tremendous views. be Scotland’s fi nest Robert Adam–designed The abbey was founded by David I in mansion. It is famous for its classic ele- 1136 for Cistercian monks from Rievaulx gance, ornate interiors and plaster ceilings; in Yorkshire. It was rebuilt by Robert the the library in particular is outstanding. Bruce, whose heart is buried here. The Give the garish upstairs bedrooms a miss, ruins date from the 14th and 15th centuries, but have a peek at the bizarre puppet-and- and were repaired by Sir Walter Scott in the doll collection in the gallery. 19th century. It’s about 10 miles northwest of Kelso, The adjoining museum (free for abbey near Gordon. Munro’s bus 65 between Mel- ticket holders) has many fi ne examples of rose and Kelso passes about a mile from 12th- to 15th-century stonework and pot- Mellerstain House. tery found in the area. Note the impres- sive remains of the ‘great drain’ outside – a TOWN YETHOLM & KIRK YETHOLM medieval sewerage system. The twin villages of Town Yetholm and Kirk Yetholm, separated by Bowmont Activities Water, are close to the English border, 2 There are many attractive walks in the Eil- about 6 miles southeast of Kelso. Hill- don Hills, accessible via a footpath off Din- walking centres, they lie at the northern gleton Rd (the B6359) south of the town, end of the (see p 142) and Pennine Way or via the trail along the River Tweed. The on (see p138 ) between St Cuthbert’s Way tourist offi ce has details of local walks. Melrose and Lindisfarne (Holy Island) in The St Cuthbert’s Way long-distance Northumberland. walking path starts in Melrose, while the coast-to-coast Southern Upland Way rooms are fi nely decorated and the twin passes through town. You can do a day’s has great views. No singles are available 145 walk along St Cuthbert’s Way as far as in summer. Harestanes (16 miles), on the A68 near Burts Hotel HOTEL ££ Jedburgh, and then return to Melrose on ( %01896-822285; www.burtshotel.co.uk; Market the hourly Jedburgh–Galashiels bus. The Sq; s/d £70/130; pW) Set in an early-18th- Tweed Cycle Way also passes through century house, and with an enviable repu- Melrose. See the boxed text, p138 for more tation, Burts retains much of its period details. charm and has been run by the same couple for over 30 years. It would suit older visitors Festivals & Events z or families. Room No 5 is the best. They do Melrose Rugby Sevens RUGBY appealing food too. (www.melrose7s.com) In mid-April rugby followers fill the town to see the week- 5 Eating long competition. Townhouse RESTAURANT ££

Borders Book Festival BOOKS ( %01896-822645; www.thetownhousemelrose. SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION (www.bordersbookfestival.org) Stretching co.uk; Market Sq; mains £11-13; hlunch & din- over four days in late June. ner) The brasserie and restaurant here turn out just about the best gourmet cui- 4 Sleeping sine in town – the sister hotel Burt’s, op- Townhouse HOTEL ££ posite, comes a close second – and off ers ( %01896-822645; www.thetownhousemelrose. decent value. There’s some rich, elaborate, co.uk; Market Sq; s/d £90/120; pW) The classy beautifully presented fare here, but you Townhouse, exuding warmth and profes- can always opt for the range of creative & EVENTS FESTIVALS sionalism, has some of the best rooms in lunchtime sandwiches for a lighter feed. FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS MELROSE town – tastefully furnished with attention Marmion’s Brasserie RESTAURANT ££ to detail. There are two superior rooms ( %01896-822245; www.marmionsbrasserie. (£132) that are enormous in size with lav- co.uk; 5 Buccleuch St; mains £10-16; hlunch ish furnishings; the one on the ground & dinner Mon-Sat) This atmospheric, oak- fl oor in particular has an excellent en suite, panelled niche serves snacks all day, but which includes a jacuzzi. It’s well worth the the lunch and dinner menus include gastro- price. nomic delights, featuring things like local Old Bank House B&B ££ lamb, venison steaks, or pan-seared cod. ( %01896-823712; www.oldbankhousemelrose. For lunch the focaccias with creative fi ll- co.uk; 27 Buccleuch St; s/d £40/60) Right in ings are a good choice. the middle of town, this noble building of- Russell’s CAFE £ fers B&B that stands out for its friendly wel- (Market Sq; dishes £6-9; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat, come and helpful attitude. Spacious rooms noon-5pm Sun) Solid wooden furniture and and inviting beds make this a top Borders big windows looking out over the centre of base. Melrose make this stylish little tearoom/ Melrose SYHA HOSTEL £ restaurant a popular option. There’s a large ( %01896-822521; www.syha.org.uk; Priorwood; range of snacks and more substantial lunch dm/tw £17/36; hlate Mar–late Oct; pi) A off erings, with daily specials. short walk from the abbey, this stately Cellar CAFE £ Georgian house is in a quiet location with (17 Market Sq; mains £4-8; h10am-5pm) a big grassy garden to relax in. The dorms Drop into the Cellar for a caffeine hit. vary substantially in number of beds and It’s also good for a glass of wine on the have no lockers, but it’s all spotless and the town square, food platters and speciality common areas are good. cheeses.

Braidwood B&B ££ ( %01896-822488; www.braidwoodmelrose.co. 8 Information uk; Buccleuch St; s/d £45/60; W) This popu- Melrose Library (18 Market Sq; hMon-Fri; i) lar town house near the abbey is an ex- Free internet access. cellent place, with high-quality facilities Tourist office (%01896-822283; melrose@ and a warm welcome. The sparkling visitscotland.com, Abbey St; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Fri Selkirk 146 & Sat Nov-Mar) By the abbey. POP 5742 While the noisy throb of machinery no 8 Getting There & Away doubt once fi lled the river valleys below First buses run to/from Edinburgh (£6, 2¼ hours, Selkirk, a prosperous mill town in the early hourly) via Peebles. Change in 19th century, today it sits placidly and Galashiels (20 minutes, frequent) for more fre- prettily atop its steep ridge. Naughty mill- quent Edinburgh services and for other workers on the wrong side of the law would Borders destinations. have come face to face in court with Sir Walter Scott, who was sheriff here for three decades. Around Melrose The helpful tourist office (%01750- DRYBURGH ABBEY 20054; [email protected]; Halliwell’s The most beautiful, complete Border abbey Close; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun Apr- is Dryburgh Abbey (HS; www.historic-scot Oct) is tucked away off Market Sq. Inside land.gov.uk; adult/child £4.70/2.80; h9.30am-

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND is Halliwell’s House Museum (admission 5.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Oct-Mar), free), the oldest building (1712) in Selkirk. partly because the neighbouring town of The museum charts local history with an Dryburgh no longer exists (another victim engrossing exhibition, and the Robson Gal- of the wars) and partly because it has a lery has changing exhibitions. lovely site in a sheltered valley by the River Drop into Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom Tweed, accompanied only by a symphony (Market Sq; admission free; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, of birdsong. The abbey conjures up images 11am-3pm Sat Apr-Sep, & 11am-3pm Sun May-Aug, of 12th-century monastic life more suc- noon-3pm Mon-Sat Oct), where there’s an ex- cessfully than its counterparts in nearby hibition on the man’s life and writings, plus towns. Dating from about 1150, it belonged BORDERS REGION BORDERS a fascinating account of the courageous ex- to the Premonstratensians, a religious plorer Mungo Park (born near Selkirk) and order founded in France. The pink-hued his search for the River Niger. stone ruins were chosen as the burial place for Sir Walter Scott. 4 Sleeping The abbey is 5 miles southeast of Mel- Philipburn Country House Hotel HOTEL ££ rose on the B6404, which passes famous ( %01750-20747; www.philipburnhousehotel.co. Scott’s View overlooking the valley. You uk; r lodge/standard/luxury £90/125/175; pW) can hike there along the southern bank of On the edge of town, this place makes the River Tweed, or take a bus to the near- a sound place to stay. New owners have by village of Newtown St Boswells. pepped this former dower house up, and it features neat rooms and a snug bar and res- ABBOTSFORD taurant. The luxury rooms are great – some Fans of Sir Walter Scott should visit his have a jacuzzi, while another is a split-level former residence, Abbotsford (www.scotts aff air with a double balcony. There are abbotsford.co.uk; adult/child £7/3.50; h9.30am- room-only rates available in the separate 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun late Mar–Oct, lodge (single/double £60/70), which has 9.30am-5pm Sun Jun-Sep). The inspiration he self-catering facilities. drew from the surrounding ‘wild’ country- side infl uenced many of his most famous County Hotel HOTEL ££ works. A collection of Scott memorabilia is ( %01750-721233; www.countyhotelselkirk.co.uk; on display, including many personal pos- Market Sq; s/d £45/89; pW) Located in the sessions. centre, this is a former coaching inn that The mansion is about 2 miles west of has comfortable, recently refurbished Melrose between the River Tweed and rooms. It’s popular with golfers and serves the B6360. Frequent buses run between good upmarket bar meals (£9 to £12). Galashiels and Melrose; alight at the Tweed bank roundabout and follow the 8 Getting There & Away signposts (it’s a 15-minute walk). You can First buses 95 and X95 run at least hourly be- also walk from Melrose to Abbotsford in tween Hawick, Selkirk, Galashiels and Edinburgh an hour along the southern bank of the (£6, two hours). Tweed. SIR WALTER SCOTT 147

Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832) is one of Scotland’s greatest literary fi gures. Born in Edinburgh, he moved to his uncle’s farm at Sandyknowe in the Borders as a child. It was here, rambling around the countryside, that he gained a passion for historical bal- lads and Scottish heroes. After studying in Edinburgh he bought Abbotsford (p 146 ), a country house in the Borders. The Lay of the Last Minstrel (1805) was an early critical success. Further works earning him an international reputation included The Lady of the Lake (1810), set around Loch Katrine and the . He later turned his hand to novels and virtu- ally invented the historical genre. Waverley (1814), which dealt with the 1745 Jacobite rebellion, set the classical pattern of the historical novel. Other works included Guy Mannering (1815) and Rob Roy (1817). In Guy Mannering he wrote about Border farmer Dandie Dinmont and his pack of dogs, which became so popular that they became known as Dandie Dinmont Terriers, the only breed of dog named after a literary

character. SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION Later in life Scott wrote obsessively to stave off bankruptcy. His works virtually single-handedly revived interest in Scottish history and legend in the early 19th cen- tury. Tourist offi ces stock a Sir Walter Scott Trail booklet, guiding you to many places associated with his life in the Borders.

Jedburgh after her famous ride to visit the injured SIGHTS POP 4090 earl of Bothwell, her future husband, at Attractive Jedburgh is a lush, compact Hermitage Castle (p149 ). The interesting oasis, where many old buildings and wynds displays evoke the sad saga of Mary’s life. SIGHTS JEDBURGH (narrow alleys) have been intelligently re- stored, inviting exploration by foot. It’s 2 Activities constantly busy with domestic tourists, but The tourist offi ce sells some handy walk- wander into some of the pretty side streets ing booklets for short walks around the and you won’t hear a pin drop. town, including sections of the Southern Upland Way (p138 ) or Borders Abbeys 1 Sights Way (p 142). Jedburgh Abbey ABBEY (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Abbey Rd; z Festivals & Events adult/child £5.20/3.10; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr- Jethart Callant’s Festival CULTURAL Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Oct-Mar) Dominating (www.jethartcallantsfestival.com) For two the town skyline, Jedburgh Abbey was the weeks from late June marks the perilous fi rst great Border abbey to be passed into time when people rode out on horseback state care, and it shows – audio and visual checking for English incursions (see the presentations telling the abbey’s story are boxed text, p148 ). scattered throughout the carefully pre- served ruins (good for the kids or if it’s 4 Sleeping raining). The red-sandstone ruins are roof- Maplebank B&B £ less but relatively intact, and the ingenuity ( %01835-862051; [email protected]; of the master mason can be seen in some 3 Smiths Wynd; s/d £25/40; p) It’s very pleas- of the rich (if somewhat faded) stone carv- ing to come across places like this, where it ings in the nave (be careful of the staircase really feels like you’re staying in someone’s in the nave – it’s slippery when wet). The home. That someone in this case is like abbey was founded in 1138 by David I as a your favourite aunt: friendly and chaotic priory for Augustinian canons. and generous. There’s lots of clutter and it’s very informal. The rooms are comfort- Mary, Queen of Scots House able and large, and share a good bathroom. F HISTORIC HOUSE Breakfast (particularly if you like fruit, (Queen St; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am- homemade yoghurts and a selection of 4.30pm Sun Mar-Nov) Mary stayed at this everything) is better than you’ll get at a beautiful 16th-century tower house in 1566 posh guesthouse. market pub grub in an attractive lounge 148 RIDING OF THE MARCHES bar. The standard fare is fl eshed out with an evening dinner menu featuring local The Riding of the Marches, or Com- lamb and other goodies. Portions are gener- mon Riding, takes place in early sum- ous and served with a smile. mer in the major Borders towns. Like many Scottish festivals it has ancient Sunrise INDIAN £ origins, dating back to the Middle (51 High St; mains £6-9; hlunch & dinner) You’ll Ages, when riders would be sent to pay slightly higher prices for the dishes the town boundary to check on the at this curry house but it’s well worth it. common lands. The colourful event Featuring aromatic south Indian cook- normally involves extravagant con- ing, there’s plenty on off er for vegetarians, voys of horse riders following the town including delicious homemade samosas fl ag or standard as it’s taken on a well- stuff ed with goodies, plus succulent, spicy worn route. Festivities vary between tandoori chicken and generous side dishes. towns but usually involve lots of sing-

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND ing, sport, pageants, concerts and a 8 Information screaming good time! If you want to There’s a free wi-fi zone around the centre. zero in on the largest of the Ridings, Library (Castlegate; hMon-Fri; i) Free head to Jedburgh for the Jethart Cal- internet access. lant’s Festival (p 147 ). T o u r i s t o f f i c e ( %01835-863170; jedburgh@ visitscotland.com; Murray’s Green; h9.30am- 5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Head tourist Willow Court B&B ££ office for the Borders region. Extended hours in ( %01835-863702; www.willowcourtjedburgh. summer. Closed Sunday in winter. co.uk; The Friars; d £65-70; pW) With superb BORDERS REGION BORDERS views over Jedburgh from the conservatory, 8 Getting There & Away where you are served a three-meals-in-one Jedburgh has good bus connections to Hawick breakfast, Willow Court is a traditional (25 minutes, roughly hourly), Melrose (30 B&B with homespun decor, smiling hosts minutes, at least hourly Monday to Saturday) and a large garden. Ask about the self- and Kelso (25 minutes, at least hourly Monday catering cottage just out of town. to Saturday, four Sunday). Munro’s runs from Jedburgh to Edinburgh (£6, two hours, at least Jedburgh Camping hourly Monday to Saturday, fi ve Sunday). & Caravanning Club CAMPING £ ( %01835-863393; www.campingandcaravanning club.co.uk/jedburgh; Elliot Park, A68; tent sites Hawick with/without car £15/7.50; hApr-Oct; pW) About a mile north of the town centre, op- POP 14,573 Straddling the River Teviot, Hawick (pro- posite Jedburgh Woollen Mill, this site is nounced ‘hoik’) is the largest town in the set on the banks of Jed Water and is quiet Borders and has long been a major produc- and convenient, particularly if you’re inter- tion centre for knitwear. ested in fi shing. In the centre of town, three buildings form what is labelled as ‘The Heart of Eating 5 Hawick’. A former mill now holds the tour- Nightjar RESTAURANT ££ ist office (%01450-373993; hawick@visitscot ( %01835-862552; www.thenightjar.co.uk; 1 land.com; Kirkstile; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, Abbey Close; mains £10-15; hdinner Thu-Sat) , and Casual but classy, this is a highly commend- 10am-7.45pm Fri & Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun) a cinema. Opposite, historic ed restaurant dishing out a mix of creative Drumlanrig’s is a solid stone mansion that was meals, including seafood and Thai cuisine. Tower once a major seat of Douglas clan power The real highlight is if you’re lucky enough in the Borders. It now holds the to be here on the last Saturday of the month Borders

when a special Thai menu is revealed; Textile Towerhouse (www.heartofhawick. locals rave about this night. co.uk; Tower Knowe; admission free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, also noon-3pm Sun Apr-Oct) that tells Carters Rest PUB ££ the story of the town’s knitwear-producing (Abbey Pl; mains £9-12; hlunch & dinner; W) history, while round the back of the tourist Right opposite the abbey, this off ers up- offi ce, the Heritage Hub (www.scotborders. gov.uk; Towerdykeside; h10am-4.45pm Mon, Fri Bothwell, here. Fortifi ed, he recovered to & Sat, 10am-7.45pm Tue & Thu) is a state-of-the- (probably) murder her husband, marry her 149 art facility for anyone wishing to trace Scot- himself, then abandon her months later tish heritage, or other local archives. and fl ee into exile. Across the river, Hawick Museum & Art The castle is about 12 miles south of Gallery (%01450-373457; Wilton Lodge Park; Hawick on the B6357. admission free; h10am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, noon-3pm Mon-Fri, 1-3pm Sun Oct-Mar) has an interesting collec- Peebles tion of mostly 19th-century manufacturing POP 8065 and domestic memorabilia. With a picturesque main street set on a There are several knitwear outlets in ridge between the River Tweed and the town, include Hawick Cashmere of Scot- Eddleston Water stream, Peebles is one of land (www.hawickcashmere.com; Arthur St); a the most handsome of the Border towns. full list is available from the tourist offi ce. Though it lacks a major sight as a focus to You’ll be met with a cheery welcome at things, the agreeable atmosphere and good SOUTHERN SCOTLAND BORDERS REGION the amiable Bridgehouse B&B (%01450- walking options in the rolling, wooded hills 370701; [email protected]; Sandbed; s/d hereabouts will entice you to linger for a £30/58). Functional rooms, in former couple of days. stables dating back to 1760, are brightly decorated and as neat as a pin, although 1 Sights & Activities en suites can be pokey. You can opt out of If it’s sunny, the riverside walk along the breakfast for a discount. There’s a cafe and River Tweed has plenty of grassed areas a bar overlooking the river, but if you feel ideal for a picnic, and there’s a children’s SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES like something more substantial, pop into playground (near the main road bridge). Sergio’s (www.sergiosofhawick.co.uk; pizza A mile west of the town centre, Neidpath SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES HERMITAGE CASTLE & pasta £6-9; hlunch & dinner) next door for Castle is a tower house perched on a bluff pizza and pasta dishes or more elaborate, above the river; it’s closed for the foresee- but overpriced, mains. able future but worth a look from the The half-hourly First buses 95 and X95 riverbank. connect Hawick with Galashiels, Selkirk Two miles east of town off the A72, in and Edinburgh (£6, two hours). Glentress forest , is one of the 7stanes (www.7stanes.gov.uk) mountain-biking hubs (see p175 ), as well as osprey viewing and Hermitage Castle marked walking trails. A cafe (%01721- The ‘guardhouse of the bloodiest valley 721736; www.thehubintheforest.co.uk) hires rigs in Britain’, Hermitage Castle (HS; www. and will put you on the right trail for your historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child £3.70/2.20; ability. These are some of Britain’s best bik- h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep) embodies the bru- ing routes. tal history of the Scottish Borders. Desolate but proud with its massive squared stone 4 Sleeping & Eating walls, it looks more like a lair for orc raiding Cringletie House HOTEL £££ parties than a home for Scottish nobility, ( %01721-725750; www.cringletie.com; s/d from and is one of the bleakest and most stirring £210/230; piW) Luxury without snobbery of Scottish ruins. is this enchanting hotel’s hallmark, and Strategically crucial, the castle was the more power to them. To call it a house is scene of many a dark deed and dirty deal being coy; it’s an elegant baronial mansion, with the English invaders, all of which re- 2 miles north of Peebles on the A703 and set bounded heavily on the perfi dious Scottish in lush, wooded grounds. Rooms are plush lord in question. Here, in 1338, Sir William and feature genteel elegance and linen so Douglas imprisoned his enemy Sir Alexan- soft you could wrap a newborn in it. There’s der Ramsay and deliberately starved him to an excellent restaurant (mains £23) and an death. Ramsay survived for 17 days by eat- excellent atmosphere. ing grain that trickled into his pit (which Rowanbrae B&B ££ can still be seen) from the granary above. ( %01721-721630; www.aboutscotland.co.uk/pee In 1566, Mary Queen of Scots famously vis- bles/rowanbrae.html, 103 Northgate; s/d £35/60; ited the wounded tenant of the castle, Lord W) A marvellously hospitable couple run 150 AMY HICKMAN: BIKE CLUB OFFICER

I work in Edinburgh for bikeclub.org.uk, an organisation which aims to encourage healthy lifestyles through cycling, and I’m a fanatical mountain biker myself. Scotland is a great place for mountain biking, and has developed an international reputation – the UCI World Cup competition is held annually in Fort William.

Best Mountain Biking Spots? I’m from the Borders originally, so I’m biased towards the 7stanes centres (see boxed text, p 175 ) – Kirroughtree is the best, the trails there are great fun. I would also recommend Laggan Wolftrax (p 333 ) for really challenging and technical terrain. These are both man-made centres; one of my favourite natural trails is the Gypsy Glen circuit at Cardrona, near the Glentress 7stanes centre (p 149 ); the guys at Glentress can give you the route details.

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND Off the Beaten Track? My current favourite place for exploring is Fife – get hold of a map and go where looks interesting! Kelty Forest and Blairadam Forest (near the vil- lage of Kelty) are good places to start.

this great B&B in a quiet cul-de-sac not far thanks to the time-warped fl oorboards. But from the main street; you’ll soon feel like that’s character; the beds are comfortable, you’re staying with friends. There are three bathrooms good, and prices fair. upstairs bedrooms, two with en suite, and Rosetta Holiday Park CAMPING £ an excellent guest lounge for relaxation. ( %01721-720770; www.rosettaholidaypark.co.uk; BORDERS REGION BORDERS Sunflower Restaurant RESTAURANT ££ Rosetta Rd; tent site & 2 people £16; hmid-Mar– ( %01721-722420; www.thesunfl ower.net; 4 Bridge- Oct; c) This camping ground, about 800m gate; mains £10-15; hlunch Mon-Sat, dinner Thu- north of the town centre, has an exquisite Sat) The Sunfl ower, with its warm yellow green setting. There are plenty of amuse- dining room, is in a quiet spot off the main ments for the kids, such as a bowling green drag and has a reputation that brings lunch- and a games room. ers from all over southern Scotland. It serves good salads for lunch and has an admirable 8 Information menu in the evenings, with creative and Tourist office (%01721-723159; bordersinfo@ elegant dishes that always include some visitscotland.com; High St; h9am-5pm Apr- standout vegetarian fare. Dec, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Jan-Mar) To 6pm in summer. Tontine Hotel RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS ££ ( %01721-720892; www.tontinehotel.com; High St; Getting There & Away mains £7-14; hlunch & dinner; pW) Glorious is 8 the only word to describe the Georgian di- The bus stop is beside the post offi ce on East- ning room here, complete with musicians’ gate. First bus 62 runs half hourly to Edinburgh gallery, fi replace, and windows the like of (1¼ hours), Galashiels (45 minutes) and Melrose (one hour). which we’ll never see again. It’d be worth it even if they served catfood on mouldy bread, but luckily the meals – ranging from pub classics like steak-and-ale pie to more Around Peebles ambitious fare – are tasty and backed up by very welcoming service. Rooms (single/dou- One of Scotland’s great country houses, ble £75/110) are decent too: there’s a small Traquair House (www.traquair.co.uk; Innerlei- supplement for river views. then; adult/child/family £7.50/4/21; h10.30am- 5pm Jun-Aug, noon-5pm Apr-May & Sep, 11am- Cross Keys Hotel HOTEL ££ 4pm Oct, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun Nov) has a ( %01721-724222; www.crosskeyspeebles.co.uk; powerful ethereal beauty, and an explora- 24 Northgate; dm/s/d £22/35/60; p) The Cross tion here is like time travel. Odd, sloping Keys is a renovated 17th-century coaching fl oors and a musty odour bestow a genuine inn, and the history shows in the curious feel, and parts of the building are believed rooms: glasses slide off the bedside tables to have been constructed long before the intriguing collection of restored mill build- fi rst offi cial record of its existence in 1107. ings and warehouses. 151 The massive tower house was gradually Once the largest cotton-spinning com- expanded over the next 500 years but has plex in Britain, it was better known for the remained virtually unchanged since 1642. pioneering social experiments of Robert Since the 15th century, the house has Owen, who managed the mill from 1800. belonged to various branches of the Stuart New Lanark is really a memorial to this family, and the family’s unwavering Cath- enlightened capitalist. He provided his olicism and loyalty to the Stuart cause are workers with housing, a cooperative store largely why development ceased when it (the inspiration for the modern cooperative did. The family’s estate, wealth and infl u- movement), the world’s fi rst nursery school ence were gradually whittled down after for children, a school with adult-education the Reformation, and there was neither the classes, a sick-pay fund for workers and a opportunity nor, one suspects, the will to social centre he called the New Institute make any changes. for the Formation of Character. You’ll need One of its most interesting places is the at least half a day to explore this site, as concealed room where priests secretly lived there’s plenty to see, and appealing walking LANARKSHIRE SOUTHERN SCOTLAND SOUTH and performed Mass – up until 1829 when along the riverside. the Catholic Emancipation Act was fi nally The best way to get the feel of New La- passed. Other beautiful, time-worn rooms nark is to wander round the outside of this hold fascinating relics, including the cradle impressive place. What must once have used by Mary for her son, James VI of Scot- been a thriving, noisy, grimy industrial vil- land (who also became James I of England), lage, pumping out enough cotton to wrap and many letters written by the Stuart pre- the planet, is now a peaceful oasis with only tenders to their supporters. the swishing of trees and the rushing of the

In addition to the house, there’s a gar- to be heard. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES den maze, an art gallery, a small brew- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES LANARK & NEW LANARK ery producing the tasty Bear Ale, and an 1 Sights & Activities active craft community. The Traquair New Lanark Visitor Centre MUSEUM Fair takes place here in early August. (www.newlanark.org; adult/child/family £7/6/22; Traquair is 1.5 miles south of Innerlei- h10am-5pm Apr-Sep, 11am-5pm Oct-Mar) You then, about 6 miles southeast of Peebles. need to buy a ticket to enter the main at- Bus 62 from Edinburgh runs hourly to In- tractions. These include a huge working nerleithen. Bus 62 runs from Edinburgh via spinning mule, producing woollen yarn, the Peebles to Innerleithen and on to Galashiels Historic Schoolhouse, which contains an and Melrose. innovative, high-tech journey to New La- nark’s past via a 3D hologram of the spirit of Annie McLeod, a 10-year-old mill girl who describes life here in 1820. The kids will love it as it’s very realistic, although the South Lanarkshire combines a highly ur- ‘do good for all mankind’ theme is a little banised area south of Glasgow with scenic- overbearing. ally gorgeous country around the Falls of Also included in your admission is a Clyde and the World Heritage–listed area of millworker’s house, Robert Owen’s home New Lanark, by far the biggest drawcard of and exhibitions on ‘saving New Lanark’. the region. If you’re roaring up to Scotland There’s also a 1920s-style village store. on the M74, there are some fi ne places to break your journey. Falls of Clyde Wildlife Centre See p 133 for Blantyre, birthplace of Da- EXHIBITION, WALK vid Livingstone. (www.swt.org.uk; adult/child £2/1; h11am-5pm Mar-Dec, noon-4pm Jan & Feb) The wildlife centre is also by the river in New Lanark. This place has child-friendly displays fo- Lanark & New Lanark cused on badgers, bats, falcons POP 8253 and other prominent species. In season, Below the market town of Lanark, in an there’s a live video feed of peregrines nest- attractive gorge by the River Clyde, is the ing nearby. Outside is a bee tree, where you World Heritage Site of – an New Lanark can see honey being made. From the centre, you can walk up to Corra an old mill building by the River Clyde. It’s 152 Linn (30 minutes) and Bonnington Linn been recently renovated and has a really (one hour), two of the Falls of Clyde that good downstairs common area, and spruce inspired Turner and Wordsworth, through en suite dormitories. the beautiful nature reserve managed by La Vigna RESTAURANT ££ the Scottish Wildlife Trust. You could re- ( %01555-664320; www.lavigna.co.uk; 40 Well- turn via the muddier path on the opposite gate, Lanark; 3-course lunch/dinner £13/24; bank, pass New Lanark, and cross the river hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun) This a little further downstream to make a cir- well established local favourite is a great cular walk of it (three hours). The centre spot, seemingly plucked from some bygone also organises various activities in sum- age with its quietly effi cient service and, mer, including badger-watching (adult/ charmingly, a separate menu for ladies – child £8/4). without prices! The food is distinctly Ital- Craignethan Castle CASTLE ian, albeit using sound Scottish venison, (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Tillietudlem; beef, and fi sh, and there are also vegetar-

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND adult/child £3.70/2.20; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr- ian options. The set-price lunch is fi ne Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) This value at £13. castle has a very authentic feel – it hasn’t Crown Tavern PUB £ been restored beyond recognition – and is (www.crown-tavern.com; 17 Hope St, Lanark; lunch in a stunning, tranquil spot, too. You’ll feel mains £5-7, dinner mains £11-15; hlunch & dinner) miles from anywhere, so bring a picnic and Off the main street, the Crowny is a local make a day of it. favourite. It’s a highly regarded place that With a commanding position above the does good bar meals and even better food River Nethan, this extensive ruin includes (pasta, seafood and vegetarian dishes) in a virtually intact tower house and a cap- the evenings in its restaurant. Try the local SOUTH LANARKSHIRE onier (unique in the UK) – a small gun trout or the Highlander chicken. emplacement with holes in the wall so men with handguns could pick off attackers. The chilly chambers under the tower house 8 Information are quite eerie. Tourist office (%01555-661661; lanark@ Craignethan is 5 miles northwest of visitscotland.com; Ladyacre Rd, Lanark; h10am-5pm) Close to the bus and train Lanark. If you don’t have your own trans- stations. Closed Sundays October to March. port, take an hourly Lanark–Hamilton bus to Crossford, then follow the footpath along Getting There & Around the northern bank of the River Nethan (20 8 minutes). Lanark is 25 miles southeast of Glasgow. Express buses from Glasgow, run by Irvine’s Sleeping & Eating Coaches, make the hourly run from Monday to 4 Saturday (one hour). New Lanark makes a very relaxing, attrac- tive place to stay. Trains also run daily between and Lanark (£5.45, 55 minutes, every 30 New Lanark Mill Hotel HOTEL ££ minutes). S( %01555-667200; www.newlanark.org; New It’s a pleasant walk to New Lanark, but there’s Lanark; s/d £80/120; piWc) Cleverly con- also a half-hourly bus service from the train verted from an 18th-century mill, this hotel station (daily). If you need a taxi, call Clydewide is full of character and is a stone’s throw (%01555-663221). from the major attractions. It has luxury rooms (only £25 extra for a spacious suite and added decadence) or self-catering ac- Biggar commodation in charming cottages (from POP 2098 £285/525 per week in winter/summer). The Biggar is a pleasant town in a rural setting hotel also serves good meals (bar meals £6 dominated by Tinto Hill (712m). The town to £9, two-course dinner £23). has a number of off beat museums that give it a quirky appeal. It’s also known for the New Lanark SYHA HOSTEL £ nationalist, leftist poet Hugh MacDiarmid, (SYHA; %01555-666710; www.syha.org.uk; New who lived near here for nearly 30 years until Lanark; dm/tw £17/38; hmid-Mar–mid-Oct; his death in 1978. pi) This hostel has a great location in Sights appointed place, complete with turrets, 1 153 The Biggar Museum Trust (%01899- and is situated in a peaceful setting 2 miles 221050; www.biggarmuseumtrust.co.uk) looks southwest of Biggar. The rooms are good after most of the town’s museums. It all re- value, particularly those that have been re- lies on the goodwill of volunteers, so open- furbished, and a three-course breakfast is ing hours can be quite variable: it’s worth included. The restaurant is somewhat over- ringing ahead if you’ve a special interest in priced; you may want to eat elsewhere. one of them. School Green Cottage B&B ££ Gladstone Court MUSEUM ( %01899-220388; [email protected]; (North Back Rd; adult/child £2/1; h10.45am- 1 Kirkstyle; s/d £35/60) Just off the sometimes 4.30pm Apr-Oct) An intriguing indoor street noisy main road in the centre of town, this museum with historic Victorian-era nook- is an upright little place with courteous and-cranny shops that you can pop into to homespun hospitality. The neat double and steal a glimpse of the past. Don’t miss the twin here are well kitted out with New Zea- old printing press and the Albion A2 land oak furnishings.

Dogcart, one of the oldest British cars still ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE around. 8 Information Biggar Gallery (%01899-221442; 139 High St; Biggar Puppet Theatre THEATRE h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Doubles (www.purvespuppets.com; Broughton Rd; seats as a tourist information point. Good walking £7) Has miniature Victorian puppets and advice. bizarre modern ones over 1m high that glow in the dark. Diff erent shows are suitable for Getting There & Away varying age groups, so inquire before you 8 Biggar is 33 miles southeast of Glasgow. Bus take along the kids. Check the website for SIGHTS 100 runs to/from Edinburgh (1¼ hours, hourly performance times. Monday to Saturday, three Sunday). Bus 191 SIGHTS BIGGAR Tinto Hill DAY HIKE runs hourly to/from Lanark (30 minutes), where The hill dominates town. It is a straight- you can change for Glasgow. forward ascent by the northern ridge from the car park, just off the A73 by Thankerton Crossroads. Look out for the Stone Age AYRSHIRE & ARRAN fort on your way up. Allow two hours for the return trip. Ayrshire is synonymous with golf and with Robert Burns – and there’s plenty on off er MUSEUM Moat Park Heritage Centre here to satisfy both of these pursuits. Troon (Kirkstyle; adult/child £2/1; h10.45am-4.30pm has six golf courses for starters, and there’s In a renovated church, covers the Apr-Oct) enough Burns memorabilia in the region to history of the area with geological and satisfy his most fanatic admirers. archaeological displays. This region’s main drawcard though is Greenhill Covenanter’s House MUSEUM the irresistible Isle of Arran. With a gour- (Burnbrae; adult/child £1/50p; h2-5pm Sat met culinary scene, atmospheric watering May-Sep) An intelligently reconstructed holes, and the most varied and scenic coun- farmhouse with 17th-century furnishings tryside of the southern Hebridean islands, and artefacts relating to the fascinating this easily accessible island shouldn’t be story of the local Covenanters, who missed. valiantly defied their king to protect their Back on the mainland, retro holiday religious beliefs. towns by the seaside, such as Largs, give Gasworks Museum MUSEUM Ayrshire a unique fl avour, while towns (Gasworks Rd; adult/child £1/50p; h11am-4pm such as Irvine provide a link to the region’s Jun-Sep) The only reminder of the days maritime heritage. There’s also spectacular when Scotland produced its gas by burn- coastal scenery, best admired at Culzean ing coal. Castle, one of the fi nest stately homes in the country. 4 Sleeping & Eating The best way to appreciate the Ayrshire coastline is on foot: the Cornhill House HOTEL ££ Ayrshire Coastal ( %01899-220001; www.cornhillhousehotel. Path (www.ayrshirecoastalpath.org) is 100 com; Coulter; s/d £75/90; pW) This is a well- miles of spectacular waterside walking. and some surprisingly decent dishes like 154 duck breast and delicious sardines on toast. LARGS POP 11,241 Haven House B&B £ On a sunny day, there are few more beauti- ( %01475-676389; m.l.mcqueen@btinternet. ful places in southern Scotland than Largs, com; 18 Charles St; r per person £25) One of where green grass meets the sparkling wa- several good options on a street close to ter of the Firth of Clyde. It’s a resort-style the water, this has comfortable rooms with waterfront town that harks back to seaside good shared bathrooms. It’s an easygoing days in times of gentler pleasures, and the place typical of the friendliness of this minigolf, amusements, old-fashioned eater- town. Room-only rates are a fi ver less per ies and bouncy castle mean you should get person. into the spirit, buy an ice cream and go for a stroll to check out this slice of retro Scot- Glendarroch B&B ££ land. ( %01475-676305; www.glendarrochbedandbreak The main attraction in Largs is Víkin- fast.co.uk; 24 Irvine Rd; s/d £34/56; p) This gar! (www.kaleisure.com; Greenock Rd; adult/ B&B typifi es Scottish hospitality – the SOUTHERN SCOTLAND child £4.50/3.50; h10.30am-4.30pm Apr-Sep, rooms are well kept and the owner is 10.30am-3.30pm Oct & Mar, 10.30am-3.30pm Sat friendly without being intrusive. If it’s full, & Sun Nov & Feb). This multimedia exhibition staff will probably ring around to try to fi nd describes Viking infl uence in Scotland un- you something else. til its demise at the Battle of Largs in 1263. Tours with staff in Viking outfi ts run every 8 Information hour. There’s also a theatre, cinema, cafe, Tourist offi ce (%01475-689962; www.ayrshire shop, swimming pool and leisure centre. -arran.com; h10.30am-3pm Mon-Sat Easter- It’s on the waterfront road just north of Oct) At the train station, a block back from the waterfront on the main street.

AYRSHIRE & ARRAN & AYRSHIRE the centre. You can’t miss it, as it’s the only place with a longship outside. Largs hosts a Viking festival (www.largs 8 Getting There & Away vikingfestival.com) during the fi rst week in Largs is 32 miles west of Glasgow by road. There September. The festival celebrates the Bat- are very regular buses to Glasgow via Gourock tle of Largs and the end of Viking political and Greenock (45 minutes), and roughly one or domination in Scotland. two hourly to Ardrossan (30 minutes), Irvine (55 minutes) and Ayr (1¼ hours). There are trains to 4 Sleeping & Eating Largs from Glasgow Central station (£6.35, one Brisbane House Hotel HOTEL ££ hour, hourly). ( %01475-687200; www.brisbanehousehotel. com; 14 Greenock Rd, Esplanade; s/d £80/85, d/ ISLE OF POP 1200 ste with sea view £95/120; pWc) We’re not sure about the modern facade on this gen- Walking or cycling is the best way to explore teel old building, but the rooms are quite this accessible, hilly island (it’s only 4 miles luxurious, and some – it’s aimed at wedding long), ideal for a day-trip from Largs. Mill- parties – have jacuzzis and huge beds. It’s port is the only town, strung out a long way on the waterfront road, so paying the extra around the bay overlooking neighbouring for a sea view will reward in fi ne weather, Little Cumbrae. With the frequent ferry ser- as the sun sets over the island opposite. vice, the place buzzes with day-trippers and There’s a decent bar and restaurant down- families (there’s heaps of stuff for kids to do, stairs and a comfortable contemporary feel. such as crazy golf and a funfair). Walking around the bay admiring the views is one of Nardini CAFE, BISTRO ££ the most pleasurable things to do in town, (www.nardinis.co.uk; Esplanade; mains £11-18; where you’ll fi nd a supermarket, bank (with h9am-10pm; c) Nothing typifi es the old- ATM) and your choice of chippies. time feel of Largs more than this giant art The town boasts Britain’s smallest ca- deco gelateria, well into its second century. thedral, the lovely Cathedral of the Isles The ice creams are decadently delicious, (%01475-530353; College St; hdaylight hrs), with rich fl avours that’ll have parents lick- which was completed in 1851. Inside it’s ing more than their fair share from the kids. quite ornate with a lattice woodwork ceil- There’s also a cafe with outdoor seating, ing and fragments of early Christian carved and a restaurant which does pizzas, pastas, stones. 155 IRVINE

Boat lovers should check out the (www.scottishmari timemuseum.org; Gottries Rd, Harbourside; adult/child £3.50/2.50; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) in Irvine. In the massive Linthouse Engine Shop – an old hangar with a cast-iron framework – is an absorbing collection of boats and machinery. A ticket also gives admission to the boat shop, with its wonderful works of art and huge kids activity area. Free guided tours leave from the boat shop – guides will take you down to the pontoons where you can clamber over various ships and visitors can also see a ship- yard worker’s restored fl at. Further along the harbour road, make sure to drop into the wonderful Ship Inn (www.shipinnirvine.co.uk; 120 Harbour St; mains £7-8). It’s the oldest pub in Irvine (1597), serves tasty bar meals (noon to 9pm) and has bucket loads of character. Irvine is 26 miles from Glasgow. There are frequent buses from Ayr (30 minutes)

and Largs (45 minutes). Trains run to/from Glasgow Central station (£5.75, 35 min- ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE utes, half-hourly); the other way they go to Ayr.

Just east of town is the interesting Rob- daily. Buses meet the ferries for the 3.5-mile ertson Museum & Aquarium (%01475- journey to Millport (£1.80/2.80 single/ 530581; adult/child £2/1; h9am-12.15pm & return). 2-4.15pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Jul & Aug). A short way along ARDROSSAN POP 10,952 the coast from the aquarium is a remark- & EATING SLEEPING The main reason – OK the only reason – for able rock feature, the Lion. & EATING SLEEPING ISLE OF ARRAN Little Cumbrae was bought in 2009 by a coming here is to catch a CalMac ferry to couple who plan to transform it into a yoga Arran. Trains leave Glasgow Central station centre, overseen by controversial but mas- (£5.85, one hour, half-hourly) to connect sively popular guru Swami Ramdev. with ferries (see p164 ). The island’s minor roads have well- marked walking and cycling routes. Take the Inner Circle route up to the island’s Isle of Arran highest point, Glaid Stone, where you get POP 4800 good views of Arran and Largs, and even as Enchanting Arran is a jewel in Scotland’s far as the Paps of Jura on a clear day. You tourism crown. Strangely undiscovered by can walk between the ferry and the town foreign tourists, the island is a visual feast, via here in about an hour. There are several and boasts culinary delights, cosy pubs (in- bike-hire places in Millport. cluding its own brewery) and stacks of ac- If you’re staying overnight on the island commodation. The variations in Scotland’s there are several choices. Try the unusual dramatic landscape can all be experienced College of the Holy Spirit (%01475-530353; on this one small island, best explored by www.island-retreats.org; College St; s/d £35/60, pulling on the hiking boots or jumping on with en suite £50/70; W), next to the cathe- a bicycle. Arran off ers some challenging dral; there’s a refectory-style dining room walks in the mountainous north, often com- and a library. pared to the Highlands, while the island’s The Dancing Midge (www.thedancing circular road is very popular with cyclists. midgecafe.com; 24 Glasgow St; light meals £3-5; The ferry from Ardrossan docks at Brod- h9am-5pm Thu-Mon; W) is a cheerful cafe on ick, the island’s main town. To the south, the seafront providing healthy, tasty alter- is actually the capital and, like natives to the chippies in town, as well as nearby , a popular seaside re- an ideal spot to read the newspaper. Food sort. From the pretty village of Lochranza is freshly prepared (sandwiches, salads and in the north there’s a ferry link to Claonaig soups) and the coff ee freshly brewed. on the Kintyre peninsula. A very frequent 15-minute CalMac (www. Camping isn’t allowed without permis- calmac.co.uk) ferry ride links Largs with sion from the landowner, but there are Great Cumbrae (passenger/car £4.70/20.35) several camping grounds. Good sleeping 06km Arran Adventure Company (%01770-302244; Isle of Arrane# 04miles 156 www.arranadventure.com; Shore Rd, Brodick; Cock of day/week £15/55) Arran Sound of Lochranza Boathouse (%01770-302868; Brodick Beach; #\ Isle of Bute #\ #æ Arran day/week £12.50/45) Mid Distillery CAR Arran Transport (%01770-700345; Brod- #\ Thundergay 0¸A841 ick) at the service station near the ferry pier Coire North hires cars from £25/32 per half/full day. Fhionn Goatfell PUBLIC TRANSPORT Four to seven buses Lochan R #\ Corrie R daily go from Brodick pier to Lochranza (45 Goatfell minutes), and many daily go from Brodick to Merkland Brodick Point Lamlash and Whiting Bay (30 minutes), then Castle #V on to Kildonan and . Pick up a &Park timetable from the tourist offi ce. An Arran Rural Auchagallon d #\ #\ g R Strin Rover ticket costs £4.75 and permits travel he Brodick T anywhere on the island for a day (buy it from the #ä Moor

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND driver). For a taxi, call %01770-302274 in Brod- Stone Circle #\ ick or %01770-600903 in Lamlash. #æ Lamlash Holy Island King's Cave #\ BRODICK & AROUND s Rd Blackwaterfoot s o Most visitors arrive in Brodick, the heartbeat R e h #\ of the island, and congregate along the coast- T Whiting Bay al road to admire the town’s long curving bay. Kilbrannan As you follow the coast along Brodick Sound Lagg #\ Kildonan #äTorrylinn #\ Bay, look out for seals, often seen on the Cairn rocks around Merkland Point. Two types live in these waters, the grey seal AYRSHIRE & ARRAN & AYRSHIRE and the common seal. The common seal options are dotted all around the island, has a face like a dog; the Atlantic grey seal but especially in Brodick and the south. has a Roman nose. Accommodation is a good deal more expen- 1 Sights sive on Arran than on the mainland. Many of Brodick’s attractions are just out of town, off the main road that runs north 8 Information to Lochranza. There are banks with ATMs in Brodick. Websites include www.ayrshire-arran.com, www.visit & Park CASTLE -isle-of-arran.eu and www.visitarran.com. (NTS; www.nts.org.uk; adult/child castle & park Arran Library (%01770-302835; Brodick Hall; £10.50/7.50, park only £5.50/4.50; hcastle h10am-5pm Tue, 10am-7.30pm Thu & Fri, 11am-4pm Sat-Wed Apr-Oct, open daily late Jun– 10am-1pm Sat; i) Free internet access. early Sep, park 9.30am-sunset) The fi rst im- Hospital (%01770-600777; Lamlash) pression of this estate 2.5 miles north of Brodick is that of an animal morgue as you Tourist office (%01770-303774; www. enter via the hunting gallery, wallpapered ayrshire-arran.com; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Efficient; by Brodick pier. Also open Sundays in with prized deer heads. On your way to the July and August. formal dining room (with its peculiar table furnishings), note the intricacy of the fi re- 8 Getting There & Away place in the library. The castle has more of a lived-in feel than some NTS properties. CalMac runs a car ferry between Ardrossan Only a small portion is open to visitors. The and Brodick (passenger/car return £9.70/59, 55 minutes, four to eight daily), and from extensive grounds, now a country park with April to late October runs services between various trails among the rhododendrons, Claonaig and Lochranza (passenger/car return justify the steep entry fee. £8.75/39.10, 30 minutes, seven to nine Arran Aromatics SOAP FACTORY daily). ( %01770-302595; www.arranaromatics.com; h9.30am-5pm) In Duchess Court is this pop- 8 Getting Around ular visitor centre where you can purchase BICYCLE Several places hire out bicycles in any number of scented items and watch the Brodick. Try these: production line at work. Free factory tours run on Thursdays in summer at 6pm. The Auchrannie Resort RESORT same people also run Soapworks (soapmak- ( %01770-302234; www.auchrannie.co.uk) Of- 157 ing from £7.50; h10am-4pm), a fun little place fers a bit of everything and can make a where kids (and adults!) can experiment by good destination if you’re looking for some- making their own soaps, combining colours thing to do in Brodick. As well as tennis and moulds to make weird and wonderful courts and gym, it has a pool and spa com- creations. plex which nonguests can access for £4.60. Isle of Arran Brewery BREWERY z Festivals & Events ( %01770-302353; www.arranbrewery.com; Cla- There are local village festivals from June dach; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun Apr- to September Sep, 10am-3.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat) At the Cla- dach centre there’s an excellent self-guided Arran Folk Festival FOLK MUSIC brewery tour for £2.50, which includes (%01770-302623; www.arranfolkfestival.org) A tastings in the shop. Arran beers are pure week-long festival in early June. quality. Warning: Arran Dark is highly ad- Arran Wildlife Festival WILDLIFE

dictive. There’s a good outdoors shop here (www.arranwildlife.co.uk) This celebration of ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE too, if you’re heading up Goatfell. local fauna is held mid-May. Marvin Elliott GALLERY Sleeping Just beyond the centre, local 4 artist Marvin Elliot creates impressive oKilmichael Country House Hotel wooden sculptures in his workshop. HOTEL £££ ( %01770-302219; www.kilmichael.com; Glen 2 Activities Cloy; s £95, d £160-199; pW) The island’s Drop into the tourist offi ce for plenty of best hotel, the Kilmichael is also the old- walking and cycling suggestions around est building – it has a glass window dating & EATING SLEEPING the island. The 50-mile circuit on the coast- from 1650. The hotel is a luxurious, taste- & EATING SLEEPING ISLE OF ARRAN al road is popular with cyclists and has few fully decorated spot, a mile outside Brodick, serious hills – more in the south than the with eight rooms and an excellent restau- north. There are plenty of walking booklets rant (3-course dinner £42). It’s an ideal, utter- and maps available. There are many walk- ly relaxing hideaway, and feels very classy ing trails clearly signposted around the without being overly formal. island. Several leave from Lochranza, in- Glenartney B&B ££ cluding the spectacular walk to the island’s S( %01770-302220; www.glenartney-arran. northeast tip, Cock of Arran, and fi nishing co.uk; Mayish Rd; s/d £56/78; hlate Mar–Sep; in the village of (8 miles one-way). pW) Uplifting bay views and genuine, help- The walk up and down Goatfell takes up ful hosts make this a cracking option. Airy, to eight hours return, starting in Brodick stylish rooms make the most of the natural and fi nishing in the grounds of Brodick light available here at the top of the town. Castle. If the weather’s fi ne, there are su- Cyclists will appreciate the bike wash and perb views to Ben and the coast of storage facilities, while hikers can benefi t . It can, however, be very from the drying rooms and expert trail ad- cold and windy up there; take the appro- vice. The owners make big eff orts to be sus- priate maps (available at the tourist offi ce), tainable too. waterproof gear and a compass. Fellview B&B ££ Arran Adventure Company ( %01770-302153; [email protected]; 6 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES Rd; r per person £30) This lovely ( %01770-302244; www.arranadventure.com; house near the ferry is an excellent place to Shore Rd, Brodick; hEaster-Oct) Off ers loads stay. The two rooms – which share a good of activities, running a diff erent one each bathroom – are full of thoughtful personal day (such as gorge walking, sea kayaking, touches like bathrobes, and breakfast is in climbing, abseiling and mountain biking). a pretty garden conservatory. The owner All activities run for about three hours is warm, friendly and encapsulates Scot- and cost around £48/38/28 for adults/solo tish hospitality; she doesn’t charge a sup- teens/kids. Drop in to see what’s available plement for singles (because, in her words, while you’re around. ‘it’s not their fault’). To get here, head south out of Brodick and take the left-hand turn to Strathwhillan. Fellview is just up on the this new restaurant makes up for it inside, 158 right. with solicitous service, a striking mural, and great sunset views over the bay. Dishes Rosaburn Lodge B&B ££ focus on fresh seafood and are attractively ( %01770-302383; www.rosaburnlodge.co.uk; d presented if a little short on quantity. £70-80, ste £90-100; p) By the River Rosa, 800m from the centre of Brodick, this very Ormidale Hotel PUB £ friendly lodge gets heaps of natural light. ( %01770-302293; www.ormidalehotel.co.uk; Glen There are three excellent rooms (and a Cloy; mains £8-10; hlunch & dinner; c) This chairlift to them). The Rosa suite overlooks hotel has decent bar food. Dishes change the river via its bay window and is closer regularly, but there are always some good to an apartment than a bedroom. Note that vegetarian options, and daily specials. there are no singles. Quantities and value-for-money are high, and Arran beers are on tap. Belvedere Guest House B&B ££ ( %01770-302397; www.vision-unlimited.co.uk; Island Cheese Co CHEESE PRODUCER £ Alma Rd; s £35, d £60-80; pW) Imperiously (www.islandcheese.co.uk; Duchess Ct) Anyone SOUTHERN SCOTLAND overlooking the town, bay and surrounding with a fetish for cheese should stop by this mountains, Belvedere has well-presented place where you can stock up on the famed rooms and very welcoming hosts, who also local cheeses. There are free samples. off er reiki, healing and de-stressing pack- Wineport CAFE ££ ages. They provide very good island infor- (%01770-302101; Cladach Centre; lunch mains mation and good breakfasts with vegetar- £7-11, dinner mains £12-19; hlunch daily, dinner ian choices. Fri & Sat Apr-Oct) Next to the brewery, this cafe-bar has a fine sunny terrace and Glen Rosa Farm CAMPING £ does a nice line in sophisticated bistro ( %01770-302380; sites per person £4; p) In a fare in the summer months. AYRSHIRE & ARRAN & AYRSHIRE lush glen by a river, 2 miles from Brodick, this large place has plenty of nooks and crannies to pitch a tent. It’s remote camping CORRIE TO LOCHRANZA The coast road continues north to the with cold water and toilets only. To get there small, pretty village of Corrie, where there’s from Brodick head north, take String Rd, a shop and hotel, and one of the tracks up then turn right almost immediately on the (the island’s tallest peak) starts road signed to Glen Rosa. After 400m, on Goatfell here. After , with a sandy beach and the left is a white house where you book in; Sannox great views of the mountains, the road cuts the campground is further down the road. inland. Heading to the very north, on the 5 Eating & Drinking island’s main road, visitors weave through Creelers (%01770-302810; www.creelers.co. lush glens fl anked by Arran’s towering uk; mains £11-21; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun Easter- mountain splendour. Oct) Creelers is likely to close in the near Moderate walks here include the trail future, but if it’s still going when you read through Glen Sannox, which goes from the this, get on the phone and book a table. village of Sannox up the burn, a two-hour Situated 1.5 miles north of Brodick, it’s Ar- return trip. ran’s top choice for fresh seafood. It’s not The traditional stone Corrie Hotel licensed, so bring a bottle. (%01770-810273; www.corriehotel.co.uk; r per person £34, without bathroom £28; pW) off ers Eilean Mòr CAFE £ simple but comfortable rooms, several with (www.eileanmorarran.com; Shore Rd; mains £8- great views, above a pub with a wonderful 10; hfood 10am-9pm, bar 11am-midnight; W) beer garden that scrapes the water’s edge. Upbeat and modern, this likeable little Groups of four or more can reserve a bunk- cafe-bar does tasty meals through the day, room (£15 per head, bed only). with pizzas and pastas featuring. But it’s not afraid to give them a Scottish twist; try LOCHRANZA the haggis ravioli. The village of Lochranza is in a stunning Arran on a Plate RESTAURANT ££ location in a small bay at the north of the ( %01770-303886; www.arranonaplate.com; island. On a promontory stand the ruins Shore Rd; 2-course lunch/dinner £10/20; hlunch of the 13th-century (HS; & dinner) Unprepossessing from the outside, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; admission free; h24hr), said to be the inspiration for the castle in The Black Island, Hergé’s Tintin Lochranza Hotel HOTEL ££ adventure. It’s basically a draughty shell in- ( %01770-830223; www.lochranza.co.uk; s/d 159 side, with interpretative signs to help you £58/94; p) The focus of the village, be- decipher the layout. ing the only place you can get an evening Also in Lochranza is the Isle of Arran meal, this bastion of Arran hospitality has Distillery (%01770-830264; www.arranwhisky. comfortable rooms decked out in pink. The com; tours adult/child £5/free; h10am-6pm showers are pleasingly powerful, and the Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun mid-Mar–Oct), which double and twin at the front (room Nos 1 produces a light, aromatic single malt. The and 10) have super views. Rooms are a bit tour is a good one; it’s a small distillery, and overpriced, but they get cheaper if you stay the whisky-making process is thoroughly more than one night. explained. Opening hours are reduced in winter. WEST COAST The Lochranza area bristles with red On the western side of the island, reached deer, who wander into the village un- by String Rd across the centre (or the coast concernedly to crop the grass on the golf road), is the Machrie Moor Stone Circle, course. upright sandstone slabs erected around ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE 6000 years ago. It’s an eerie place, and 4 Sleeping & Eating these are the most impressive of the six SLochranza SYHA HOSTEL £ stone circles on the island. There’s another ( %01770-830631; www.syha.org.uk; Lo- group at nearby Auchagallon, surrounding chranza; dm/f £17.50/72; hmid-Feb–Oct; a Bronze Age burial cairn. piW) A recent refurbishment has made Blackwaterfoot is the largest village a really excellent hostel of what was al- on the west coast; it has a shop and hotel. ways a charming place, with lovely views. You can walk to King’s Cave from here, via The rooms are great, with chunky wooden Drumadoon Farm – Arran is one of sev- & EATING SLEEPING furniture, keycards, and lockers. Rainwa- eral islands that lay claim to a cave where & EATING SLEEPING ISLE OF ARRAN ter toilets, a heat exchange system, and an had his famous arachnid excellent disabled room shows the thought encounter (p445 ). This walk could be com- that’s gone into the redesign, while plush bined with a visit to the Machrie stones. lounging areas, a kitchen you could run a restaurant out of, laundry, drying room, red SOUTH COAST deer in the garden, and welcoming manage- The landscape in the southern part of the ment make this a top option. island is much gentler; the road drops into little wooded valleys, and it’s particularly Apple Lodge B&B ££ lovely around Lagg. There’s a 10-minute ( %01770-830229; Lochranza; s/d/ste walk from Lagg Hotel to Torrylinn Cairn, a £54/78/90; p) Once the village manse, this chambered tomb over 4000 years old where rewarding choice is most dignifi ed and hos- at least eight bodies were found. Kildonan pitable. Rooms are individually furnished, has pleasant sandy beaches, a gorgeous and very commodious. One has a four- water outlook, a hotel, a campground and poster bed, while another is a self-con- an ivy-clad ruined castle. tained suite in the garden. The guest lounge In Whiting Bay you’ll fi nd small sandy is perfect for curling up with a good book, beaches, a village shop, a post offi ce and and courteous hosts mean you should book Arran Art Gallery (www.arranartgallery.com; this one well ahead in summer. Shore Rd), which has exquisite landscape Hotel PUB ££ portraits of Arran. From Whiting Bay there ( %01770-830231; www.catacol.co.uk; Catacol; r are easy one-hour walks through the forest per person £30; piWc) Genially run, and to the Giant’s Graves and Glenashdale with a memorable position overlooking the Falls, and back – an eye out for golden water, this no-frills pub 2 miles south of Lo- eagles and other birds of prey. chranza off ers comfortable-enough rooms with shared bathroom and views to lift the 4 Sleeping & Eating heaviest heart. No-frills bar food comes oKildonan Hotel HOTEL ££ out in generous portions, there’s a Sunday ( %01770-820207; www.kildonanhotel. lunch buff et (£10.50), and the beer garden com; Kildonan; s/d/ste £70/95/125; pWc) Lux- is worth a contemplative pint or two as you urious rooms and a grounded attitude – dogs gaze off across the water into the west. and kids are made very welcome – combine to make this one of Arran’s best options. Oh, funky place decked out in suave red tones 160 and it’s right by the water, with fabulous and with a sun-drenched conservatory on views and seals basking on the rocks. The the water’s edge serves grills, seafood and standard rooms are beautifully furnished salads in the evening, with lighter off erings and spotless, but the suites – with private during the day. terrace or small balcony – are superb. Other Isle of Arran Brewery Guesthouse amenities include great staff , a bar serving B&B ££ good bar meals, a restaurant doing succu- (%01770-700662; guesthouse@arranbrewery. lent seafood, an ATM, book exchange, and co.uk; Shore Rd, Whiting Bay; s/d from £55/80; laptops lent to guests if you didn’t bring one. pW) Newly refurbished, this bright, light Applause. place offers five rooms named after Arran beers. The best of them have sea views, Royal Arran Hotel B&B ££ ( %01770-700286; www.royalarran.co.uk; Whiting and cost slightly more. Bay; s £50, d £90-105; pW) This personalised, Kilmory Lodge Bunkhouse HOSTEL £ intimate spot has just four rooms. The dou- (%01770-870345; www.kilmoryhall.com; Kilm-

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND ble upstairs is our idea of accommodation ory; dm £20; p) This new bunkhouse in heaven – four-poster bed, big heavy linen, Kilmory normally only opens for groups a huge room and gorgeous water views. but you may be able to grab a spare bed. Room No 1 downstairs is a great size and The Lagg Hotel is a minute’s walk away. has a private patio. The hosts couldn’t be more welcoming (except to kids under 12, LAMLASH who aren’t allowed). An upmarket town (even the streets feel wider here), Lamlash is in a dazzling set- Lagg Hotel HOTEL ££ ting, strung along the beachfront. The bay ( %01770-870255; www.lagghotel.com; Lagg; s/d was used as a safe anchorage by the navy £45/80; pW) An 18th-century coach house, AYRSHIRE & ARRAN & AYRSHIRE during WWI and WWII. this inn has a beautiful location and is the Just off the coast is , owned perfect place for a romantic weekend away Holy Island by the Samye Ling Tibetan Centre and used from the cares of modern life. Rooms have as a retreat, but day visits are allowed. De- been recently refurbished; grab a superior pending on tides, the % one (£90) with garden views. There’s also ferry ( 01770-600998) makes around seven trips a day (adult/ a cracking beer garden, a fi ne bar with child return £10/5, 15 minutes) from Lam- log fi re, and an elegant restaurant (dinner lash and runs between May and Septem- mains £11 to £16). ber. The same folk also run fun mackerel- Viewbank House B&B ££ fi shing expeditions (£20 per person). ( %01770-700326; www.viewbank-arran.co.uk; No dogs, bikes, alcohol or fi res are al- Whiting Bay; s £35, d £60-79; pW) Appropri- lowed on the island. There’s a good walk ately named, this friendly place does indeed to the top of the hill (314m), taking two or have tremendous views from its vantage three hours return. It is possible to stay on point high above Whiting Bay. Rooms, of the island in accommodation belonging to which there are a variety with and without the grandiosely named Holy Island Centre bathroom, are tastefully furnished and well for World Peace & Health (%01770-601100; kept. It’s well signposted from the main www.holyisle.org; dm/s/d £25/45/65). These road. prices include full (vegetarian) board. Al- though it’s designed more for groups doing Sealshore Campsite CAMPING £ yoga and meditation courses at the centre, ( %01770-820320; www.campingarran.com; individuals are welcome. Kildonan; sites per person £6, per tent £1-3; p) Living up to its name, this small campsite 4 Sleeping & Eating is right by sea (and, happily, the Kildonan Lilybank Guest House B&B ££ Hotel) with one of Arran’s fi nest views from ( %01770-600230; www.lilybank-arran.co.uk; its grassy camping area. There’s a good Shore Rd, Lamlash; s/d £50/70; pW) Built washroom area with heaps of showers, and in the 17th century, Lilybank retains its the breeze keeps the midges away. heritage but has been refurbished for 21st- Coast BISTRO £ century needs. Rooms are clean and com- ( %01770-700308; Shore Rd, Whiting Bay; mains fortable, with one adapted for disabled use. £9-10; hlunch Wed-Mon, dinner Thu-Sat) This The front ones have great views over Holy Island. Breakfast includes oak-smoked kip- pers and Arran goodies. 161 DUMFRIES HOUSE Drift Inn PUB £ (Shore Rd, Lamlash; mains £8-9; hlunch & dinner; A Palladian mansion designed in the c) There are few better places to be on the 1750s by the Adam brothers, Dum- island on a sunny day than the beer garden fries House (%01290-425959; www. at this child-friendly hotel, ploughing your dumfries-house.org.uk; adult/child £10/5; way through an excellent bar meal while h11am-4pm Thu-Mon Apr-Sep) is an gazing over to Holy Island. There are pub architectural jewel: such is its preser- faves and genuine Angus beef burgers, with vation that Prince Charles personally generous portions all round. intervened to ensure its protection. Glenisle Hotel PUB ££ It contains an extraordinarily well- (www.glenislehotel.com; Shore Rd, Lamlash; preserved collection of Chippendale mains £9-12; hlunch & dinner; W) Excellent furniture and numerous objets d’art. pub food; serves Scottish classics such Visits are by guided tour; you should as Cullen skink (soup made with smoked phone ahead to reserve a space and ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE haddock, potato, onion and milk). Good check tour times. The house is located wine list. 13 miles east of Ayr, near Cumnock.

Lamlash Bay Hotel PUB ££ (www.lamlashbayhotel.co.uk; Shore Rd, Lamlash; are many fi ne Georgian and Victorian mains £10-16, pizzas £7-8; hlunch & dinner) buildings, and it makes a convenient base Locals love a big meal out here; known for exploring this section of coast. for its toothsome pizza and filling Italian- style dishes. Sights 1 & EATING SLEEPING Most things to see in Ayr are Robert Burns– SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING EAST AYRSHIRE related. The bard was baptised in the Auld East Ayrshire Kirk (Old Church) off High St. The atmo- spheric cemetery here overlooks the river In Kilmarnock, where Johnnie Walker and is good for a stroll, off ering an escape whisky has been blended since 1820, is from the bustle of High St. Several of his po- Dean Castle (www.deancastle.com; Dean Rd; ems are set here in Ayr; in ‘Twa Brigs’, Ayr’s admission free; h11am-5pm daily Apr-Sep, 10am- old and new bridges argue with one anoth- 4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Mar; c), a 15-minute walk er. The Auld Brig (Old Bridge) was built in from the bus and train stations. The castle, 1491 and spans the river just north of the restored in the fi rst half of the 20th centu- church. In Burns’ poem ‘Tam o’Shanter’, ry, has a virtually windowless keep (dating Tam spends a boozy evening in the pub that from 1350) and an adjacent palace (1468), now bears his name – Tam o’Shanter – at with a superb collection of medieval arms, 230 High St (see p163 ). armour, tapestries and musical instru- St John’s Tower (Eglinton Tce) is the only ments. The grounds, an 81-hectare park, remnant of a church where a parliament are a good place for a stroll or a picnic, or was held in 1315, the year after the celebrat- you can eat at the visitor centre’s tearoom, ed victory at Bannockburn. John Knox’s where snacks and light meals cost around son-in-law was the minister here, and Mary, £5. Free guided tours are available and Queen of Scots, stayed overnight in 1563. there are regular activities for kids. From Ayr there are frequent buses throughout 2 Activities the day. With only a few steep hills, the area is well suited to cyclists. From Ayr, you could cycle to Alloway and spend a couple of hours South Ayrshire seeing the Burns sights before continuing AYR to Culzean via Maybole. You could either POP 46,431 camp here, after seeing Culzean Castle, or Reliant on tourism, Ayr, whose long sandy cycle back along the coast road to Ayr, a beach has made it a popular family seaside return trip of about 22 miles. AMG Cycles resort since Victorian times, has struggled (%01292-287580; www.irvinecycles.co.uk; 55 in the recent economic climate. Parts of the Dalblair Rd; day/weekend/week £12.50/15/35) centre have a neglected air, though there hires out bikes. Ayr e# 0400m 162 00.2miles

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66 ÿ# 4 ‚ 444A B C D Ayr The beachfront is good for a walk in sunny weather, especially at low tide when æ Top66 Sights a huge sandy beach is revealed. The silhou- Auld Brig ...... D1 ettes of Arran’s peaks over the bay form an Auld Kirk ...... D2 impressive backdrop. æ Sights z Festivals & Events 1 St John's Tower...... B2 Burns an’ a’ That CULTURAL Activities, Courses & Tours (www.burnsfestival.com) Held in Ayr in late 2 AMG Cycles (Bike Hire) ...... C3 May, this festival has a bit of everything, from wine-tasting to horseracing to con- ÿ Sleeping certs, some of it Burns-related. 3 Belmont Guest House...... C4 4 Crescent...... C4 4 Sleeping 5 Eglinton Guest House...... B1 Crescent B&B ££ ( %01292-287329; www.26crescent.co.uk; 26 Bel- ú Eating levue Cres; s £50, d £70-80; W) When the blos- 6 Beresford ...... C4 soms are out, Bellevue Cres is Ayr’s prettiest 7 Fouter's ...... C1 street, and this is an excellent place to stay on it. The rooms are impeccable – a tenner û Drinking to upgrade to the spacious four-poster room 8 Tam o'Shanter ...... D3 is a sound investment – but it’s the warm welcome given by the hosts that makes this special. Numerous little extras, like Arran west coast oysters, and Scottish lamb often toiletries, bottled water in the rooms, and featuring. Some dishes hit real heights, and 163 silver cutlery at breakfast, add appeal. are solidly backed by a wide choice of wines, with 10 available by the glass. It stays open Eglinton Guest House B&B ££ as a bar after the kitchen closes. Top service ( %01292-264623; www.eglinton-guesthouse seals the deal. -ayr.com; 23 Eglinton Tce; r per person £26; W) A short walk west of the bus station, this Tam o’Shanter PUB friendly family-run Georgian property is in (230 High St; mains £7) Opened in the mid- a quiet cul-de-sac and has a range of tradi- 18th century and featured in the Burns tional, tidy rooms. The location is brilliant – poem whose name it now bears, this is an between the beach and the town, and it of- atmospheric old pub with traditional pub fers plenty of value, with comfortable beds grub (served noon to 9pm). and compact en suite bathrooms. 8 Information Belmont Guest House B&B ££ Carnegie Library (12 Main St; hMon-Sat; i) ( %01292-265588; www.belmontguesthouse.co.

Offers fast, free internet access. ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE uk; 15 Park Circus; s/d £35/56; W) There’s a re- laxing lounge and library for guests in this Tourist office (%01292-290300; www. comfortable Victorian town house. It’s a ayrshire-arran.com; 22 Sandgate; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm little deceptive inside, with the ’70s decor Mon-Sat Oct-Mar) punctuated by pictures of wildlife staring hungrily down at diners, but the rooms Getting There & Around with Victorian furnishings are clean and 8 mostly of a good size. Chocolates on your Bus pillow give a romantic feel to the rooms. Ayr is 33 miles from Glasgow and is Ayrshire’s SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING Note that over busy periods it doesn’t ac- major transport hub. The main bus operator commodate singles. in the area is Stagecoach Western (%01292- & EATING SLEEPING SOUTH AYRSHIRE 613500; www.stagecoachbus.com) which runs Heads of Ayr Caravan Park CAMPING £ very frequent express services to Glasgow (one (%01292-442269; www.headsofayr.com; sites hour) and also serves Stranraer (£6.90, two £17.50, chalets per week from £220; hMar-Oct) hours, four to eight a day), other Ayrshire desti- This caravan park is in a lovely, quiet nations, and Dumfries (£5.70, 2¼ hours, fi ve to location close to the beach. From Ayr take seven a day). the A719 south for about 5 miles. Train 5 Eating & Drinking There are at least two trains an hour that run Fouter’s RESTAURANT £££ to Ayr from Glasgow Central station (£6.70, 50 ( %01292-261391; www.fouters.co.uk; 2a Acad- minutes), and some trains continue south from Ayr to Stranraer (£13, 1½ hours). emy St; mains £16-20; hdinner Tue-Sat) The best place to eat in town, Fouter’s is a class ALLOWAY act set in a former bank vault opposite the The pretty, lush town of Alloway (3 miles town hall. It’s an ideal place to splash out south of Ayr) should be on the itinerary of on a top-class dinner without breaking the every Robert Burns fan – he was born here budget. It specialises in Ayrshire produce on 25 January 1759. Even if you haven’t (such as new-season local lamb with pine been seduced by Burns mania, it’s still well nut, garlic and herb crust) and seafood pre- worth a visit since the Burns-related exhibi- pared Mediterrean style. There’s an early- tions give a good impression of life in Ayr- dining menu (£15 for two courses) from shire in the late 18th century. 5pm to 7pm. 1 Sights Beresford BISTRO ££ Robert Burns Birthplace Museum MUSEUM ( %01292-280820; www.theberesfordayr.co.uk; (NTS; www.nts.org.uk; adult/child £8/5; h10am- 22 Beresford Tce; mains £10-16; hfood 9am- 5pm Oct-Mar, 10am-5.30pm Apr-Sep) This brand 9pm) Style and fun go hand in hand at this upbeat establishment serving afternoon new museum displays a solid collection martinis in teapots and luring churchgoing of Burnsiana, including manuscripts and ladies with artisanal chocolates. The food possessions of the poet like the pistols he is a creative fusion of infl uences based on packed in order to carry out his daily work – solid local produce, with Ayrshire pork, as a taxman. A Burns jukebox allows you to select readings of your favourite Burns vers- beaches and six golf courses. The demand- 164 es, and there are other entertaining audio ing championship course Royal Troon and visual performances. (%01292-311555; www.royaltroon.co.uk; Craigend The admission ticket (valid for three Rd) has off ers on its website; the standard days) also covers the atmospheric Burns green fee is £165 (caddie hire is £40 extra). Cottage, by the main road from Ayr, and Four miles northeast of Troon, Dun- connected by a sculpture-lined walkway donald Castle (HS; www.historic-scotland. from the Birthplace Museum. Born in the gov.uk; Dundonald; adult/child £3.50/1.50; little box bed in this cramped thatched h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) commands impressive dwelling, the poet spent the fi rst seven views and, in its main hall, has one of the years of his life here. It’s an attractive dis- fi nest barrel-vaulted ceilings preserved in play which gives you a context for reading Scotland. It was the fi rst home of the Stu- plenty of his verse. Much-needed trans- art kings, built by Robert II in 1371, and lation of some of the more obscure Scots reckoned to be the third most important farming terms he loved to use decorate the castle in Scotland in its time, after Ed- walls. inburgh and . The visitor centre SOUTHERN SCOTLAND below the castle has good information on Alloway Auld Kirk CHURCH prior settlements, and scale models of the Near the Birthplace Museum are the ru- castle and its predecessors. Buses running ins of the kirk, the setting for part of ‘Tam between Troon and Kilmarnock stop in o’Shanter’. Burns’ father, William Burnes Dundonald village. (his son dropped the ‘e’ from his name), is buried in the kirkyard; read the poem on the back of the gravestone. 8 Getting There & Away There are half-hourly trains to Ayr (10 minutes) Burns Monument & Gardens GARDEN The monument was built in 1823; the and Glasgow (£6.15, 45 minutes).

AYRSHIRE & ARRAN & AYRSHIRE gardens afford a view of the 13th-century P&O (%0871 66 44 777; www.poirishsea.com) Brig o’Doon House. sails twice daily to Larne (£24 for passengers, £79 for a car and driver, two hours) in Northern 4 Sleeping Ireland. Brig O’Doon House HOTEL CULZEAN CASTLE & COUNTRY PARK % ( 01292-442466; www.costley-hotels.co.uk; The Scottish National Trust’s fl agship Alloway; s/d £85/120; p) On the main road property, magnifi cent Culzean (NTS; right by the monument and bridge, a %01655-884400; www.culzeanexperience.org; charming ivy-covered facade conceals the adult/child/family £13/9/32, park only adult/ romantic, rather luxurious 190-year-old child £8.50/5.50; hcastle 10.30am-5pm Apr- which will appeal greatly to Burns fans. Oct, park 9.30am-sunset year round) is one of The heavyish decor of plaid carpets is re- the most impressive of Scotland’s great lieved by slate-fl oored bathrooms; rooms stately homes. The entrance to Culzean are spacious and very comfortable, and (kull-ane) is a converted viaduct, and on there are also a couple of cottages – Rose, approach the castle appears like a mirage, more traditionally decorated, and Gables, fl oating into view. Designed by Robert more modern – across the way. Service Adam, who was encouraged to exercise his is helpful, and there’s a decent restau- romantic genius in its design, this 18th- , but the place is rant (3-course dinner £25) century mansion is perched dramatically often booked up by wedding parties at on the edge of the cliff s. Robert Adam was weekends. the most infl uential architect of his time, renowned for his meticulous attention to 8 Getting There & Away detail and the elegant classical embellish- Stagecoach Western bus 57 operates hourly be- ments with which he decorated his ceilings tween Alloway and Ayr from 8.45am to 3.45pm and fi replaces. Monday to Saturday (10 minutes). Otherwise, The beautiful oval staircase here is re- rent a bike and cycle here. garded as one of his fi nest achievements. On the 1st fl oor, the opulence of the cir- TROON POP 14,766 cular saloon contrasts violently with the Troon, a major sailing centre on the coast views of the wild sea below. Lord Cassillis’ 7 miles north of Ayr, has excellent sandy bedroom is said to be haunted by a lady in green, mourning for a lost baby. Even the THE SCOTTISH BARD 165

I see her in the dewy fl owers, I see her sweet and fair: I hear her in the tunefu’ birds, I hear her charm the air: There’s not a bonnie fl ower that springs By fountain, shaw, or green; There’s not a bonnie bird that sings, But minds me o’ my Jean.

Best remembered for penning the words of ‘Auld Lang Syne’, Robert Burns (1759– 96) is Scotland’s most famous poet and a popular hero whose birthday (25 January) is celebrated as Burns Night by Scots around the world. Burns was born in 1759 in Alloway to a poor family, who scraped a living gardening

and farming. At school he soon showed an aptitude for literature and a fondness for ARRAN & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND AYRSHIRE the folk song. He later began to write his own songs and satires. When the problems of his arduous farming life were compounded by the threat of prosecution from the father of Jean Armour, with whom he’d had an aff air, he decided to emigrate to Jamaica. He gave up his share of the family farm and published his poems to raise money for the journey. The poems were so well reviewed in Edinburgh that Burns decided to remain in Scotland and devote himself to writing. He went to Edinburgh in 1787 to publish a 2nd edition, but the fi nancial rewards were not enough to live on and he had to take a job as a excise man in . Though he worked well, he wasn’t a taxman & EATING SLEEPING

by nature, and described his job as ‘the execrable offi ce of whip-person to the blood- & EATING SLEEPING SOUTH AYRSHIRE hounds of justice’. He contributed many songs to collections published by Johnson and Thomson in Edinburgh, and a 3rd edition of his poems was published in 1793. To give an idea of the prodigious writings of the man, Robert Burns composed more than 28,000 lines of verse over 22 years. He died of rheumatic fever in Dumfries in 1796, aged 37. Burns wrote in Lallans, the Scottish Lowland dialect of English that is not very accessible to the Sassenach (Englishman) or foreigner; perhaps this is part of his appeal. He was also very much a man of the people, satirising the upper classes and the church for their hypocrisy. Many of the local landmarks mentioned in the verse-tale ‘Tam o’Shanter’ can still be visited. Farmer Tam, riding home after a hard night’s drinking in a pub in Ayr, sees witches dancing in Alloway churchyard. He calls out to the one pretty witch, but is pursued by them all and has to reach the other side of the River Doon to be safe. He just manages to cross the Brig o’Doon, but his mare loses her tail to the witches. The Burns connection in southern Scotland is milked for all it’s worth and tourist offi ces have a Burns Heritage Trail leafl et leading you to every place that can claim some link with the bard. Burns fans should have a look at www.robertburns.org.

bathrooms are palatial, the dressing room (%01655-760627; www.campingandcaravanning beside the state bedroom being equipped club.co.uk; tent sites members/non-members with a Victorian state-of-the-art shower. £9/16; W) at the entrance to the park, off er- There are also two ice houses, a swan ing grassy pitches with great views. pond, a pagoda, a re-creation of a Victorian vinery, an orangery, a deer park and an avi- 8 Getting There & Away ary. Wildlife in the area includes otters. Culzean is 12 miles south of Ayr; Maybole is the If you really want to experience the nearest train station, but since it’s 4 miles away magic of this place, it’s possible to stay in it’s best to come by bus from Ayr (30 minutes, 11 the castle (s/d from £150/225, Eisenhower ste daily Monday to Saturday). Buses pass the park £250/375; p) from April to October. There’s gates, from where it’s a 20-minute walk through also a Camping & Caravanning Club the grounds to the castle. TURNBERRY Trains going to Girvan run approximate- 166 POP 200 ly hourly (with only three trains on Sun- Turnberry’s Ailsa golf course (%01655- days) from Ayr (30 minutes). 334032; www.turnberry.co.uk) hosted the Brit- ish Open in 2009 and is one of Scotland’s most prestigious links courses, with spec- tacular views of Ailsa Craig (p166 ) off shore. DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY You don’t need a handicap certifi cate to Some of the region’s fi nest attractions lie in play, just plenty of pounds – the standard the gentle hills and lush valleys of Dumfries green fee is £190. In summer though, take & Galloway. Ideal for families, there’s plenty advantage of the after-3pm ‘sunset’ rate on off er for the kids and, happily, restau- and you can go round for £90 a head. rants, B&Bs and guesthouses that are very Opposite the course, the super-luxurious used to children. Galloway Forest is a high- Turnberry Resort (%01655-331000; www. light, with its sublime views, mountain- luxurycollection.com/turnberry; d from £279; biking and walking trails, red deer, kites piWs) off ers everything you can think and other wildlife, as are the dream-like SOUTHERN SCOTLAND of, including an airstrip and helipad. As ruins of Caerlaverock Castle. well as the luxurious rooms and excellent Adding to the appeal of this enticing restaurant, 1906, there’s a series of self- region is a string of southern Scotland’s contained lodges. most idyllic towns, charming when the sun shines. And shine it does. Warmed by the KIRKOSWALD Gulf Stream, this is the mildest region in POP 500 Scotland, a phenomenon that has allowed Just 2 miles east of Kirkoswald, by the A77, the development of some famous gardens. Crossraguel Abbey (HS; www.historic-scot land.gov.uk; adult/child £3.70/2.20; h9.30am-

DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY 5.30pm Apr-Sep) is a substantial ruin dating back to the 13th century that’s good fun to Dumfries explore. The renovated 16th-century gate- POP 31,146 house is the best part – you’ll fi nd decora- Lovely, red-hued sandstone bridges criss- tive stonework and superb views from the cross pleasant Dumfries, which is bisec- top. Inside, if you have the place to yourself, ted by the wide , with pleas- you’ll hear only the whistling wind – an ant grassed areas along the river bank. apt refl ection of the abbey’s long-deceased Historic ally, Dumfries held a strategic posi- mon astic tradition. Don’t miss the echo in tion in the path of vengeful English armies. the chilly sacristy. Consequently, although it has existed since Stagecoach Western runs Ayr-to-Girvan Roman times, the oldest standing build- buses via Crossraguel Abbey and Kirk- ing dates from the 17th century. Plenty of oswald (35 minutes, hourly Monday to Sat- famous names have passed through here: urday, every two hours Sunday). Robert Burns lived here and worked as a tax collector; JM Barrie, creator of Peter AILSA CRAIG Pan, was schooled here; and the former rac- The curiously shaped island of Ailsa Craig ing driver David Coulthard hails from here. can be seen from much of southern Ayr- shire. While its unusual blue-tinted gran- 1 Sights ite has been used by geologists to trace The red-sandstone bridges arching over the the movements of the great Ice Age ice River Nith are the most attractive features sheet, birdwatchers know Ailsa Craig as of the town: Devorgilla Bridge (1431) is one the world’s second-largest gannet colony – of the oldest bridges in Scotland. You can around 10,000 pairs breed annually on the download a multilingual MP3 audio tour of island’s sheer cliff s. the town at www.dumgal.gov.uk/audiotour. To see the island close up you can take Burns House MUSEUM a cruise from Girvan on the MV Glorious F(www.dumgal.gov.uk/museums; Burns (%01465-713219; www.ailsacraig.org.uk; 7 Har- St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat & 2-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, bour St, Girvan). It’s possible to land if the sea 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar) This is a is reasonably calm; a four-hour trip costs place of for Burns enthusiasts. £20/15 per adult/child (£25 per person if It’s here that the poet spent the last years you want three hours ashore). of his life, and there are various items of his Dumfries e# 0400m 00.2miles167 A B C D #£ Dumfries 5 Train S #ÿ t Station d 666 a ie R L lk t rb t o Wa i ke vers #ÿ o S oc 1 n L 1 y C m a 3 R e th d d e t Ir a r S C v c in s in L e ' a g A y s S o S r tl r t a t e t e t S S Q b S M t e t u u e e rg a c S o e r R T Glasg e e n ll G t n S a 666C S s an Rd t w Ann S h h #á b C c e t a u 2 e r e N o o l r lo cc r wSt l u y l #ò tt B e e l S t g e t S e n ng #ú en Ki S 6 V t 2 t reat S 2 rs G sh ia gli t B Fr H n SC N r E y e i a ith g w h w h o u ll #› er a r t y S B G S r SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY c #æ S oo 666t k h t #ï 8 ank t e St S Devorgilla #ú B S t e Bridge #û r Qu 9 a ee e n t St l S M p d el il Robert Burns s R w l R e s x d k om a Centre a ro M #â Sh B e #ú 7 t B ra S 3 l B u 3 l h r i t Burns 666M W i I n #â r h N ish s House it S S e t t sa n d 4 #ÿ s #Ü 1 A B C D SLEEPING DUMFRIES SLEEPING 66possessions666 in glass cases, as well as manu- Dumfries scripts and, entertainingly, letters: make æ Top Sights sure you have a read. Burns House...... C3 Robert Burns Centre MUSEUM Devorgilla Bridge...... A2 F (www.dumgal.gov.uk/museums; Mill Rd; Robert Burns Centre ...... B3 audiovisual presentation £2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat æ & 2-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat Sights Oct-Mar) A worthwhile Burns exhibition in 1 Burns' Mausoleum ...... C3 an old mill on the banks of the River Nith. 2 Robert Burns Statue ...... B2 It tells the story of the poet and Dumfries in St Michael's Kirk ...... (see 1) the 1790s. The optional audiovisual presen- ÿ Sleeping tations give more background on Dumfries, 3 Ferintosh Guest House ...... D1 and explain the exhibition’s contents. 4 ...... B3 You’ll fi nd Robert Burns’ mausoleum in 5 Torbay Lodge...... C1 the graveyard at St Michael’s Kirk; there’s a grisly account of his reburial on the in- ú Eating formation panel. At the top of High St is a 6 Cavens Arms...... A2 statue of the bard; take a close look at the 7 Hullabaloo ...... B3 sheepdog at his feet. 8 One Bank St ...... B2

Ellisland Farm HISTORIC HOME û Drinking (www.ellislandfarm.co.uk; Auldgirth; adult/child 9 Globe Inn ...... C3 £2.50/free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar) If you’re not Burnsed out, you could head 6 miles Sleeping northwest of town and visit the farm he 4 Merlin B&B ££ leased. It still preserves some original fea- ( %01387-261002; 2 Kenmure Tce; r per person tures from when he and his family lived £30; W) Beautifully located on the riverbank here, and there’s a small exhibition. It’s across a pedestrian bridge from the centre, signposted off the A76 to Kilmarnock. this is a top place to hole up in Dumfries. So much work goes on behind the scenes with wraps like roast veg and humus or 168 here that it seems eff ortless: numerous smoked chicken and raspberry. small details and a friendly welcome make Globe Inn PUB this a very impressive set-up. Rooms share a (www.globeinndumfries.co.uk; 56 High St) A tra- bathroom, and have super-comfy beds; the ditional, rickety old nook-and-cranny pub breakfast table is also quite a sight. down a narrow wynd off the main pedes- Ferintosh Guest House B&B ££ trian drag, this was reputedly Burns’ favou- ( %01387-252262; www.ferintosh.net; 30 Lov- rite watering hole, and scene of one of his ers Walk; s £35, d £54-60; W) A Victorian numerous seductions. It’s got a great atmo- villa, opposite the train station, Ferintosh sphere created by its welcoming locals and has sumptuous rooms done in individual staff as much as the numerous pictures of themes. The whisky room is our fave – no the ‘ploughman poet’ himself. matter which you choose, there’ll prob- ably be a free dram awaiting you on ar- 8 Information rival. These people have the right attitude Ewart library (%01387-253820; Catherine St;

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND towards hospitality. The owner’s original h9.15am-7.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9.15am-5pm artwork complements the decor and moun- Thu & Sat; i) Free internet access. tain bikers are welcomed with a shed out Tourist office (%01387-245550; www.visit the back for bikes. dumfriesandgalloway.co.uk; 64 Whitesands; Torbay Lodge B&B ££ h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, plus Sun Jul–mid-Oct) (%01387-253922; www.torbaylodge.co.uk; 31 Lovers Walk; s/d £28/54; pW) This high- 8 Getting There & Away standard guesthouse has beautifully Bus presented bedrooms with generously Local buses run regularly to Kirkcudbright (one sized en suites (and a single without); hour, roughly hourly Monday to Saturday, six on DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY the good vibe is topped off with excellent Sunday) and towns along the A75 to Stranraer breakfast. (£7.40, 2¼ hours, eight daily Monday to Satur- day, three on Sunday). 5 Eating & Drinking Bus 100/101 runs to/from Edinburgh (£7, 2¾ Cavens Arms PUB £ hours, four to seven daily), via Moff at and Biggar. (20 Buccleuch St; mains £7-12; hlunch & dinner Train Tue-Sun) Engaging staff , nine real ales on There are trains between Carlisle and Dumfries tap, and a warm contented buzz make this (£8.60, 35 minutes, every hour or two Monday a legendary Dumfries pub. Generous por- to Saturday), and direct trains between Dum- tions of typical pub nosh backed up by a fries and Glasgow (£12.90, 1¾ hours, eight daily long list of more adventurous daily specials Monday to Saturday); there’s a reduced service make it one of the town’s most enjoyable on Sunday. places to eat too. If you were going to move to Dumfries, you’d make sure you were within a block or two of here. South of Dumfries Hullabaloo CAFE, RESTAURANT ££ CAERLAVEROCK ( %01387-259679; www.hullabaloorestaurant. The ruins of Caerlaverock Castle (HS; www. co.uk; Mill Rd; lunch mains £5-9, dinner mains historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child £5.20/3.10; £10-15; hlunch daily, dinner Tue-Sat) At week- h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Oct- ends locals fl ock to this contemporary Mar), by Glencaple on a beautiful stretch of restaurant at the Robert Burns Centre. For the Solway coast, are among the loveliest in lunch there’s wraps, melts and ciabattas, Britain. Surrounded by a moat, lawns and but come dinner time it’s inventive angles stands of trees, the unusual pink-stoned tri- on traditional creations – with imaginative angular castle looks impregnable. In fact, fi sh dishes perhaps best on show. it fell several times, most famously when it was attacked in 1300 by Edward I: the siege One Bank St CAFE £ became the subject of an epic poem, ‘The (1 Bank St; lunch £3-7; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Siege of Caerlaverock’. The current castle This wee room upstairs around the corner dates from the late 13th century but, once from the tourist offi ce (look for the sign on defensive purposes were no longer a design the street) does gourmet rolls and baked necessity, it was refi tted as a luxurious Scot- potatoes, but gets even more adventurous tish Renaissance mansion house in 1634. view of what Scots have worn from Victo- Ironically, the rampaging Covenanter mili- rian times up to the postwar years. There 169 tia sacked it a few years later. With nooks are also picturesque gardens here. and crannies to explore, passageways and Kids complaining about all the , remnants of fi replaces, this castle is great historic sights and Robert Burns? Pack up for the whole family. the clan and get down to Mabie Farm Park It’s worth combining a visit to the castle (www.mabiefarmpark.co.uk; adult/child/family with one to Caerlaverock Wetland Cen- £5.50/5/20; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun tre (www.wwt.org.uk; adult/child £6.70/3.30; Feb-Mar), between Dumfries and New Abbey h10am-5pm), a mile east. It protects 546 off the A710. There are plenty of animals hectares of salt marsh and mud fl ats, the and activities for kids, including petting habitat for numerous birds, including bar- and feeding sessions, donkey rides, go-kart- nacle geese. There’s free, daily wildlife ing, slides, a soft play area, picnic areas…the safaris with experienced rangers and a cof- list goes on – put a full day aside. fee shop that serves organic food. If you’ve got a range of ages, you could From Dumfries, bus D6A runs several split up and take the older ones to the SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY times a day (just twice on Sunday) to Caer- adjacent Mabie Forest Park (%01387- laverock Castle. By car take the B725 south. 270275; www.7stanes.gov.uk) which is one of the 7stanes mountain bike hubs (see p175 . RUTHWELL CROSS There are nearly 40 miles of trails for all A couple of miles beyond Caerlaverock, in levels; bike hire available. the hamlet of Ruthwell, the church (%0131- Staying in New Abbey is a good altern- 550 7612; hring in advance to visit) holds one ative to Dumfries and the Abbey Arms of Europe’s most important early Chris- (%01387-850489; www.abbeyarmshotel.com; tian monuments. The 6m-high 7th-century The Square; s/d £35/60) is a fi ne old inn with Ruthwell Cross is carved top to bottom in simple but clean and comfy rooms, and a EATING & DRINKING ANNANDALE & ESKDALE

New Testament scenes and is inscribed good dose of homespun hospitality. The EATING & DRINKING with a poem called ‘The Dream of the food is home cooked (mains £7 to £9) and Rood’; written in a Saxon runic alphabet, a couple of dishes – Greek spanakopita and it’s considered one of the earliest examples lamb rogan josh – deviate from the pub of English-language literature. classics. Bus 79 running between Dumfries and To get to New Abbey, take Bus 372 from Carlisle stops in Ruthwell. Dumfries.

NEW ABBEY The small, picturesque village of New Ab- bey lies 7 miles south of Dumfries and Annandale & Eskdale contains the remains of the 13th-century These valleys, in Dumfries & Galloway’s Cistercian Sweetheart Abbey (HS; www. east, form part of two major routes that historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child £3/1.80; cut across Scotland’s south. Away from the h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct, highways, the roads are quiet and there are 9.30am-4.30pm Sat-Wed Nov-Mar). The shat- some interesting places to visit, especially if tered, red-sandstone remnants of the abbey you’re looking to break a road trip. are impressive and stand in stark contrast to the manicured lawns surrounding them. GRETNA & GRETNA GREEN POP 2705 The abbey, the last of the major monas- Firmly on the coach tour circuit for its ro- teries to be established in Scotland, was mantic associations (see the boxed text, founded by Devorgilla of Galloway in 1273 p170 ), Gretna Green still hosts some 4000 in honour of her dead husband John Bal- weddings yearly. It’s on the outskirts of the liol (with whom she had founded Balliol town of Gretna, just across the river from College, Oxford). On his death, she had his Cumbria in England, not far from Carlisle. heart embalmed and carried it with her un- The touristy Old Blacksmith’s Shop til she died 22 years later. She and the heart (www.gretnagreen.com; Gretna Green; adult/child were buried by the altar – hence the name. £3.50/free; h9am-5pm Sep-Jun, to 7pm Jul-Aug) On the edge of New Abbey, a historic has an exhibition on Gretna Green’s his- house holds the National Museum of tory, a sculpture park and a coach museum Costume (www.nms.ac.uk; adult/child £4/free; (there’s even an anvil marriage room!). h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), which gives an over- a centre for the local wool industry, symbol- 170 TYING THE KNOT IN ised by the bronze ram statue on High St. GRETNA GREEN At Moffat Woollen Mill (www.ewm-store. co.uk), near the tourist offi ce, you can see a From the mid-18th century, eloping working weaving exhibition. This place is a couples south of the border realised retail bonanza – if that’s your thing, you’re that under Scottish law people could going to love it here. (and still can) tie the knot at the age of The fl ower-decked Buchan Guest 16 without parental consent (in Eng- House (%01683-220378; www.buchanguest land and Wales the legal age was 21; house.co.uk; Beechgrove; s/d £37/66; pW) is it’s now 18). Gretna Green’s location in a quiet street just a short walk north close to the border made it the most of the town centre. Room No 5 is a good popular venue. choice, as it has a lovely outlook over At one time anyone could perform nearby fi elds. a legal marriage ceremony, but in Groom’s Cottage (%01683- Gretna Green it was usually the local o220049; Beattock Rd; d £60; p) is a

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND blacksmith, who became known as beautifully presented, cosy self-contained the ‘Anvil Priest’. In 1940 the ‘anvil nook with everything you could want for weddings’ were outlawed, but eloping a comfortable stay. There are self-catering couples still got married in the church facilities (but breakfast is included). It has or registry offi ce. good privacy from the owner’s residence, Today many people take or even views over green fi elds and even an ortho- reaffi rm their marriage vows in the paedic bed. It’s a stylish job and very rea- village. If you want to get married over sonably priced – weekly deals are available the famous anvil in the Old Black- too. Look for ‘The Lodge’ sign coming in smith’s Shop at Gretna Green, check from the M74 – it’s on your right before you DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY out Gretna Green Weddings (www. hit the town centre. This option is ideally gretnaweddings.com). suited to couples. The tourist office (%01683-220620; Churchgate; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) is Smith’s (%01461-337007; www.smithsgre also open Sunday in summer. tnagreen.co.uk; Gretna Green; s/d £115/135; There are several daily buses to Edin- pWc) is a large contemporary hotel with burgh, Glasgow and Dumfries (buses 100 a reader-recommended restaurant (mains and 114). For Gretna, change at Lockerbie. £12-19). Though the blocky exterior won’t delight everybody, the interior is much LANGHOLM more stylish. The rooms are decorated in a POP 2311 chic, restrained style with king-sized beds. The waters of three rivers – the Esk, Ewes Various grades are available; you’ll get and Wauchope – meet at Langholm, a gra- much cheaper rates booking online. cious old town at the centre of Scotland’s The very helpful tourist office (%01461- tweed industry. Most people come for fi sh- 337834; [email protected]; Gretna ing and walking in the surrounding moors Gateway, Gretna; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am- and woodlands; check out the Langholm 4.30pm Nov-Mar) is a good fi rst stop for infor- Walks website (www.langholmwalks.co.uk) for mation on Scotland if you’re driving across details. from England. Border House (%013873-80376; www. Bus 79 between Dumfries (1 hour) and border-house.co.uk; High St; s/d £30/60; p) is Carlisle (35 minutes) stops in Gretna an excellent central accommodation option (hourly Monday to Saturday, every two with large rooms (the downstairs double in hours Sunday). Trains also run from Gretna particular), a lovely hostess and big sink-in- Green to Dumfries and Carlisle. and-smile beds. You may get fresh hand- made chocolates if a batch has just been MOFFAT made! POP 2135 Bus 112 has up to fi ve daily connections Moff at lies in wild, hilly country near the with Eskdalemuir (no Sunday service). upper reaches of Annandale. It’s really en- This goes on to Lockerbie, from where you joyed by the older brigade and is a popular can get buses to other destinations. tourist-coach spot. The former spa town is ESKDALEMUIR c), on the eastern bank north of Parton Surrounded by wooded hills, Eskdalemuir village, runs a wide range of activities, and 171 is a remote settlement 13 miles northwest of also provides equipment and accommoda- Langholm. About 1.5 miles further north is tion. Activities cost £16/26/38 for 1½/three/ the Samye Ling Tibetan Centre (%013873- six hours. There are also walking trails and 73232; www.samyeling.org; camping/dm/s/d incl a rich variety of bird life. The Royal Soci- full board £15/23/36/56; p), the fi rst Tibetan ety for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) has Buddhist monastery built in the West a nature reserve (www.rspb.org.uk) on the (1968). The colourful prayer fl ags and the western bank, north of Glenlochar. red and gold of the temple itself are a stri- king contrast to the stark grey and green Sulwath Brewery BREWERY landscape. You can visit the centre during (www.sulwathbrewers.co.uk; 209 King St; adult/ h You can see the day (donation suggested, cafe on site), child £4/free; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) traditional brewing processes at Sulwath or stay overnight in simple accommodation Brewery. Admission includes a half-pint of which includes full vegetarian board. There Galloway real ale (tea or coff ee is also avail- are also meditation courses and weekend

able). Recommended is the Criff el, an origi- SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY workshops available. nal pale ale, and Knockendoch, a dark brew Bus 112 from Langholm/Lockerbie stops with a delicious taste of roasted malt. at the centre. 4 Sleeping & Eating Douglas House B&B ££ Castle Douglas & Around ( %01556-503262; www.douglas-house.com; 63 POP 3671 Queen St; s/d £38/78; W) A keen designer’s Castle Douglas attracts a lot of day-trippers eye is obviously present at this luxurious, but hasn’t been ‘spruced up’ for tourism. It’s attractively renovated place. Big beautiful an open, attractive, well-cared-for town. bathrooms complement the light, stylish SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES & AROUND DOUGLAS CASTLE There are some remarkably beautiful areas chambers, which include fl atscreen digi- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES close to the centre, such as the small Car- tal TVs with inbuilt DVD player. The two lingwark Loch. The town was laid out in upstairs doubles are the best, although the 18th century by Sir William Douglas, the downstairs double is huge and has a who had made a fortune in the Americas. king-size bed – you could sleep four in it…if you’re into that kinda thing. 1 Sights & Activities CASTLE (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child incl ferry £4.20/2.50; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Sep) WANLOCKHEAD Two miles further west of Castle Douglas, Threave Castle is an impressive tower on a ‘Lead mining’: even the phrase has small island in the River Dee. Built in the a sort of dulling eff ect on the brain, late 14th century, it became a principal and you’d think it’d be a tough ask to stronghold of the Black Douglases. It’s now make the subject interesting. But at basically a shell, having been badly dam- the Museum of Lead Mining (www. aged by the Covenanters in the 1640s, but leadminingmuseum.co.uk; adult/child it’s a romantic ruin nonetheless. £6.25/4.50; h11am-4.30pm Apr-Oct) at It’s a 15-minute walk from the car park little Wanlockhead, off the motorway to the ferry landing, where you ring a bell northwest of Moff at, they pull it off . It’s for the custodian to take you across to the apparently Scotland’s highest village, island in a small boat. and not necessarily a place you’d have chosen for quality of life back in Loch Ken LOCH, WATER SPORTS Stretching for 9 miles northwest of Castle the day. The tour of the place is fasci- Douglas between the A713 and A762, Loch nating, and family-friendly, taking in a Ken is a popular outdoor recreational area. real mine, miners’ cottages, a unique The range of water sports includes wind- library, and a display on lead-mining surfi ng, sailing, canoeing, power-boating and other minerals. In summer, they and kayaking. Back on land, off -road bug- also run gold-panning activities (£3). Bus 224 heads to Wanlockhead gies can also be hired. Galloway Activity from Dumfries. Centre (%01644-420626; www.lochken.co.uk; Douglas Arms Hotel HOTEL ££ 8 Getting There & Away 172 % ( 01556-502231; www.douglasarmshotel.com; Buses 501 and 502 pass through Castle Douglas 206 King St; s/d dinner, bed & breakfast £55/80; roughly hourly en route to Dumfries (45 min- W) Smack bang in the middle of town, utes) and Kirkcudbright (20 minutes). Bus 520 Douglas Arms was originally a coaching along the A713 connects Castle Douglas with inn, but these days all the mod cons comfort New Galloway (30 minutes, six daily Monday the weary traveller. If you want to splash to Saturday, one Sunday) and Ayr (£6.80, 2¼ out, go for the honeymoon suite, which has hours, two or three daily Monday to Saturday, a four-poster bed, jacuzzi and views over one Sunday). the main drag from a collage of windows. The lively bar serves scrumptious food (bar meals £8 to £12), although the atmosphere Kirkcudbright is a bit staid. The steak-and-ale pie made POP 3447 with Galloway beef is recommended. Kirkcudbright (kirk-coo-bree), with its dig- nifi ed streets of 17th- and 18th-century mer- Craig B&B ££ chants’ houses and its appealing harbour,

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND ( %01556-504840; www.thecraigcastledouglas. is the ideal base from which to explore the co.uk; 44 Abercromby Rd; s/d £33/60; p) This south coast. This delightful town has one of solid old property is a fi ne B&B with a the most beautifully restored High Streets conscientious owner, large rooms and in Dumfries & Galloway. Look out for the fresh fruit served up for breakfast. It’s old- nook-and-cranny wynds in the elbow of fashioned hospitality – genuine and very High St. With its architecture and set- comfortable. Would suit older visitors. It’s ting, it’s easy to see why Kirkcudbright has on the edge of town on the road to New been an artists’ colony since the late 19th Galloway. century. Lochside Caravan & Camping Site DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY CAMPING £ 1 Sights & Activities (%01556-502949; www.dumgal.gov.uk/ Kirkcudbright is a charming town for a caravanandcamping; Lochside Park; tent sites wander, dropping into galleries as you go; it £15.50) Very central campsite attractively won’t be long before you stumble across its situated beside Carlingwark Loch; there’s main sights. In June, the town’s jazz festi- plenty of grass and fine trees providing val (www.kircudbrightjazzfestival.co.uk) is four shade. days of swing, trad, and dixie. Galloway Activity Centre HOSTEL, CAMPING £ MacLellan’s Castle CASTLE (%01644-420626; www.lochken.co.uk; Loch (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Castle St; Ken; dm £15, tent sites £6 per person) Year- adult/child £3.70/2.20; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr- round dormitory accommodation and Sep) Near the harbour, this is a large, at- camping at this lakeside spot 10 miles mospheric ruin built in 1577 by Thomas north of Castle Douglas. MacLellan, then provost of Kirkcudbright, Deli 173 TAKEAWAY £ as his town residence. Inside look for the (173 King St; baguette or panini £2.80; h8am- ‘lairds’ lug’, a 16th-century hidey-hole de- 4pm Mon-Sat) For a truly awesome ba- signed for the laird to eavesdrop on his guette drop into this fine-foods deli. We guests. recommend ‘the Godfather’. Tolbooth Art Centre EXHIBITION SPACE Simply Delicious CAFE £ F(High St; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm (134 King St; snacks £2-5; hbreakfast & lunch) Sun) As well as catering for today’s local art- Great cafe serving all-day brekky (£6.50), ists, this centre has an exhibition on the his- luxury melts and freshly ground coffee. tory of the town’s artistic development. The place is as interesting for the building itself 8 Information as for the artistic works on display. It’s one Library (%502643; King St; h10am-7.30pm of the oldest and best-preserved tollbooths Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-5pm Thu & Sat; i) Free in Scotland and interpretative signboards internet access. reveal its past. Extended hours in summer. Tourist office (%01556-502611; King St; Broughton House GALLERY h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) In a small park on King St. Also open Sundays in July and (NTS; www.nts.org.uk; 12 High St; adult/child August. £5.50/4.50; hnoon-5pm Apr-Oct) The 18th- century Broughton House displays paint- Greengate B&B ££ ings by EA Hornel (he lived and worked (%01557-331895; www.thegreengate.co.uk; 173 here), one of the Glasgow Boys group of 46 High St; s/d £50/70; W) The artistically painters (p111 ). Behind the house is a lovely inclined should snap up the one double Japanese-style garden (also open in Febru- room in this lovely place, with both his- ary and March). The library with its wood toric and current painterly connections. panelling and stone carvings is probably Number One B&B ££ the most impressive room. (%01557-330540; www.number1bedandbreak Galloway Wildlife Conservation Park ZOO fast.co.uk; 1 Castle Gdns; d £75; W) Right by (www.gallowaywildlife.co.uk; Lochfergus Planta- the castle, this tasteful spot offers high- tion; adult/child £6/4; h10am-dusk Feb-Nov) A end B&B with solicitous hosts who pre- mile from Kirkcudbright on the B727, this pare great breakfasts and dinners and are is an easy walk from town, and you’ll see happy to advise about walks in the area. red pandas, wolves, monkeys, kangaroos, Anchorlee B&B ££ Scottish wildcats and many more creatures (%01557-330197; www.anchorlee.co.uk; 95 St in a beautiful setting. An important role Mary St; s/d £55/75; pW) Top-f loor rooms SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY of the park is the conservation of rare and are a bit frilly but very spacious and neat threatened species. as a pin. Very friendly. Silvercraigs Caravan & Camping Site Sleeping & Eating 4 CAMPING £ Kirkcudbright has a swathe of good B&Bs. (%01557-330123; silvercraigs.caravan@dumgal. Selkirk Arms Hotel HOTEL ££ gov.uk; Silvercraigs Rd; sites for up to 2 £15.50; o( %01557-330402; www.selkirkarmshotel hMar-Oct; p) There are brilliant views .co.uk; High St; s/d/superior d £82/116/136; from this campground; you feel like piWc) What a haven of good hospitality you’re sleeping on top of the town. Great SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING GATEHOUSE OF FLEET

this is. Superior rooms are excellent – wood stargazing on clear nights. Good facili- & EATING SLEEPING furnishings and views over the back garden ties, too, including a laundry. give them a rustic appeal. Try No 20. The bistro (mains £10-18) serves top pub nosh – 8 Information the fi sh and chips come wrapped in the ho- Check out www.kirkcudbright.co.uk and www. tel newsletter – and the restaurant, Artis- artiststown.org.uk for heaps of information on tas (2-course dinner £23), serves more refi ned the town. but equally tasty fare. Staff are happy to be Tourist office (%01557-330494; kirkcudbright there, and you will be too. [email protected]; Harbour Sq; hdaily Castle Restaurant RESTAURANT ££ mid-Feb-Nov) Handy office with useful bro- ( %01557-330569; www.thecastlerestaurant.net; chures detailing walks and road tours in the 5 Castle St; mains £12-14; hlunch Thu-Sun, din- surrounding district. ner Mon-Sat; c) The Castle Restaurant is the best place to eat in town and uses organic 8 Getting There & Away produce where possible. It covers a few Kirkcudbright is 28 miles southwest of Dumfries. bases with chicken, beef and seafood dishes Buses 501 and 505 run hourly to Dumfries (one on off er as well as tempting morsels for hour) via Castle Douglas and Dalbeattie respec- vegetarians. Lunch mains are lighter and tively. Change at Gatehouse of Fleet for Stranraer. cheaper, and there’s a good-value evening two-course off er for £16. Gatehouse of Fleet Gordon House Hotel HOTEL ££ POP 892 ( %01557-330670; www.gordon-house-hotel.co. Gatehouse of Fleet is an attractive little uk; 116 High St; s/d/f £40/70/80; W) The small, town stretched along a sloping main street, laid-back hotel rooms are in good shape, in the middle of which sits an unusual cas- but they vary a bit, so have a look at a few. tellated clock tower. The town lies on the No 2 is probably the best of the doubles. banks of the Water of Fleet, completely You can dine in the restaurant (mains £12 off the beaten track, and is surrounded by to £19), which serves posh nosh like pan- partly wooded hills. seared breast of guinea fowl with tarragon In the centre of town, Mill on the Fleet and grain mustard, or the lounge bar, and Visitor Centre (www.millonthefl eet.co.uk; High there’s a beer garden for sunny afternoons. St; admission free; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), in a (843m). The park is criss-crossed by some 174 converted 18th-century cotton mill, traces superb signposted walking trails, from gen- the history of the local industry. The town tle strolls to long-distance paths, including was originally planned as workers’ accom- the Southern Upland Way (see the boxed modation. There’s also tourist information text, p138 ). The park is very family focused; and a cafe here. look out for the booklet of annual events, One mile southwest on the A75, the well- and the park newspaper, The Galloway preserved (HS; www. Ranger, in tourist offi ces. historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/child £3.70/2.20; The park is also great for stargazing; h9.30am-5.30pm daily Apr-Sep, closed Thu & it’s been named a Dark Sky Park by the In- Fri Oct, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) was the ternational Dark-Sky Association. home of the McCulloch clan. It’s a classic The 19-mile A712 (Queen’s Way) between 15th-century tower house with great views New Galloway and Newton Stewart slices from the top. through the southern section of the park. Bobbin Guest House (%01557-814229; On the shore of Clatteringshaws Loch, [email protected]; 36 High St; s/d 6 miles west of New Galloway, is Clatter- SOUTHERN SCOTLAND £30/60; c), situated right in the middle of ingshaws Visitor Centre (%information town, is a home-from-home with a variety 01671-402420; www.forestry.gov.uk/scotland; of spacious, well-appointed rooms with car-park fee £2; h10.30am-4.30pm mid-Mar– good en suite bathrooms. Oct, to 5.30pm Jul & Aug), with an exhibition The friendly, family-run Bank of Fleet on the area’s fl ora and fauna. Pick up a copy Hotel (%01557-814302; www.bankoffl eet.co.uk; of the Galloway Red Kite Trail leafl et here, 47 High St; s/d £33/65; W) has bright rooms which details a circular route through im- with a blue decor that gives them a cool, con- pressive scenery that off ers a good chance temporary feel. Live entertainment’s on of- to spot one of these majestic reintroduced fer, plus good bar meals (mains £8 to £11) – birds. From the visitor centre you can walk DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY try the grilled Galloway trout. to a replica of a Romano-British homestead, Buses X75 and 500 between Dumfries and to Bruce’s Stone, where Robert the (one hour) and Stranraer (1¼ hours) stop Bruce is said to have rested after defeating here eight times daily (three on Sunday). the English at the Battle of Rapploch Moss (1307). About a mile west of Clatteringshaws, Around Gatehouse Raiders Rd is a 10-mile drive through Ideal for families, Cream o’ Galloway the forest with various picnic spots, child-friendly activities, and short walks (%01557-815222; www.creamogalloway.co.uk; Rainton; visitor centre adult/child £2/4; incl all marked along the way. It costs £2 per vehicle; drive slowly as there’s plenty of rides £10; h10am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug) has taken off big time. It off ers a pleth- wildlife about. ora of activities and events at the home of Further west is the Galloway Red Deer that delicious ice cream you’ll see around Range where you can observe Britain’s the region. There are 4 miles of nature largest land-based beast. During rutting trails, an adventure playground for all ages, season in autumn it’s a bit like watching a a 3-D maze, wildlife-watching, a farm to ex- bullfi ght as snorting, charging stags com- plore and plenty of ice cream to taste. Daily pete for the harem. During summer there events include a farm tour and ice cream are guided ranger-led walks (adult/child tasting, and there are regular special hap- £3.50/2.50). penings. It’s about 4 miles from Gatehouse Walkers and cyclists head for Glentrool off the A75 – signposted all the way. You can in the park’s west, accessed by the forest also hire bikes from here. road east from Bargrennan off the A714, north of Newton Stewart. Located just over a mile from Bargrennan is the Glentrool Galloway Forest Park Visitor Centre (h10.30am-4.30pm mid-Mar– Oct, to 5.30pm Jul & Aug), which stocks infor- South and northwest of the small town of mation on activities, including mountain New Galloway is 300-sq-mile Galloway For- biking, in the area. There is a coff ee shop est Park, with numerous lochs and great with snacks and an opportunity to rest whale-backed, heather- and pine-covered those weary legs. The road then winds and mountains. The highest point is Merrick Saturday, one Sunday); one to three services MOUNTAIN-BIKING HEAVEN continue north to Ayr (1¼ to 1¾ hours). 175

A brilliant way to experience southern Scotland’s forests is by pedal power. The 7stanes (stones) are seven Newton Stewart mountain-biking centres around the POP 3600 On the banks of the sparkling River Cree, region with trails through some of the Newton Stewart is at the heart of some fi nest forest scenery you’ll fi nd in the beautiful countryside, and is popular with country. Glentrool is one of these hikers and anglers. On the eastern bank, centres and the Blue Route here is 5.6 across the bridge, is the older and smaller miles in length and a lovely ride climb- settlement of Minnigaff. With excellent ing up to Green Torr Ridge overlooking accommodation and eating options, this Loch Trool. If you’ve more serious makes a tempting base for exploring the intentions, the Big Country Route is Galloway Forest Park. 36 miles of challenging ascents and For advice on landing the big one, fi sh- descents that aff ord magnifi cent SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY ing gear and permits, drop into Galloway views of the Galloway Forest. It takes a Angling Centre (%01671-401333; 1 Queen St). full day and is not for wimps. Also see the very useful site at www.fi shgal Another of the trailheads is at Kir- loway.co.uk. roughtree Visitor Centre, 3 miles southeast of Newton Stewart. This Sleeping & Eating off ers plenty of singletrack at four dif- 4 Creebridge House Hotel HOTEL ££ ferent skill levels. You can hire bikes at ( %01671-402121; www.creebridge.co.uk; Minni- both of these places (www.thebreak- gaff ; s/d/superior d £60/110/120; pWc) This pad.com). For more information on is a magnifi cent refurbished 18th-century routes see www.7stanes.gov.uk. & EATING SLEEPING ST JOHN’S TOWN OF DALRY mansion built for the Earl of Galloway. A & EATING SLEEPING maze inside, it has tastefully decorated rooms with modern furnishings and loads climbs up to Loch Trool, where there are of character. Try to get a room overlooking magnifi cent views. the garden (No 7 is a good one). There’s also good food here (mains £10 to £15). St John’s Town of Dalry Galloway Arms Hotel HOTEL ££ % St John’s Town of Dalry is a charming vil- ( 01671-402653; www.gallowayarmshotel.com; pW lage, hugging the hillside about 3 miles 54 Victoria St, Newton Stewart; s/d £39/75; ) A traditional refurbished hotel off ering north of New Galloway on the A713. It’s on excellent-value accommodation, with good- the Water of Ken and gives access to the sized, well-furnished rooms and sparkling Southern Upland Way. It’s a good base for renovated en suites. Try No 11 if you’re after Galloway Forest Park. a double. The hotel is walker- and cyclist- Lodgings (%01644-430015; www.thelodgi friendly, with bike storage and a drying ngs.co.uk; St John’s Town of Dalry; r per person room, while the bar and restaurant churn £29.50) has just two very good rooms, one out excellent local fare: try the pork-and- sleeping three and the other a family room apple burger. sleeping four. Its advantage over other B&Bs here is privacy: the owners live off site. Flowerbank Guest House B&B ££ Vine-engulfed Lochinvar Hotel ( %01671-402629; www.fl owerbankgh.com; Mill- (%01644-430107; www.lochinvarhotel.co.uk; St croft Rd, Minnigaff ; s/d £30/60; p) This dignifi ed John’s Town of Dalry; s/d £45/70, without bath- 18th-century house is set in a magnifi cent room £40/60; p), an old hunting lodge built landscaped garden on the banks of the River in the 1750s with a stately interior, is a fi ne Cree. The two elegantly furnished rooms at place to stay, or pop by for a pint. Front- the front of the house are slightly more ex- facing rooms have the best views. pensive, but are spacious and have lovely gar- Bus 521 runs once or twice daily (except den views. Two-course dinners are £15. Sunday) to Dumfries (55 minutes). Bus 520/ Minnigaff Youth Hostel HOSTEL £ S2 connects New Galloway with Castle (SYHA; %01671-402211; www.syha.org.uk; Minni- Douglas (30 minutes, three daily Monday to gaff ; dm £15.25; hApr-Sep; p) This converted school is a well-equipped hostel with eight- and regional titles. ReadingLasses Book- 176 bed dorms in a tranquil spot 800m north of shop Café (www.reading-lasses.com; 17 South the bridge on the eastern bank. Although Main St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, also noon-5pm it’s popular with outdoor enthusiasts, you Sun May-Oct) sells caff eine to prolong your may just about have the place to yourself. reading time and does a cracking smoked Expect a lockout until 5pm. salmon salad sourced locally. It specialises in books on the social sciences and women’s Café Cree CAFE £ studies. S(www.cafecree.co.uk; 48 Victoria St, Newton Folk in this town love their resident os- Stewart; mains £6-10; hlunch & dinner; c) On preys. It’s a good conversation starter and the main street, this most hospitable place if you’d like to learn a bit more about the makes a real eff ort to source produce lo- majestic birds and see a live CCTV link to a cally, and creates wraps, salads, and other nearby nest, drop by the dishes vibrant with fl avour with it. To try Wigtown County h the best of the region, go for a ‘local hero Buildings (Market Sq; admission free; 10am- platter’, with smoked salmon, cheese and 5pm Mon, Thu & Sat, 10am-7.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 2-5pm Sun) for its osprey exhibition. SOUTHERN SCOTLAND other goodies. They’ll even spoil your ca- Browsing books can be thirsty work, nine companions. so it’s fortunate that Bladnoch Distillery (%01988-402605; www.bladnoch.co.uk; tours Information 8 adult/child £3/free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, also Tourist office (%01671-402431; www.visit weekends Jul & Aug) is just a couple of miles dumfriesandgalloway.com; Dashwood Sq; away in the village of the same name. Ring h10am-4pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) for times of tours, which include a dram. Four miles west of Wigtown, off the Getting There & Away 8 B733, the well-preserved recumbent Tor- Buses stop in Newton Stewart (Dashwood Sq) house Stone Circle dates from the 2nd DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY on their way to Stranraer (45 minutes) and millennium BC. Dumfries (1½ hours); both served several times Wow! That’s what we said when we saw daily. Frequent buses also run south to the Isle the rooms in Hillcrest House (%01988- of Whithorn. 402018; www.hillcrest-wigtown.co.uk; Station Rd; s £40, d £65-75; pWc). A noble stone building in a quiet part of town, the house The Machars features high ceilings and huge windows; South of Newton Stewart, the Galloway spend the extra for one of the superior Hills give way to the softly rolling pastures rooms, which have stupendous views over- of the triangular peninsula known as the looking rolling green hills and the sea be- Machars. The south has many early Chris- yond. This is all complemented by a ripper tian sites and the loping 25-mile Pilgrims breakfast involving fresh local produce. Way. Pop into the bright dining room at Café Bus 415 runs every hour or two between Rendezvous (2 Agnew Cres; dishes £4-7; Newton Stewart and the Isle of Whithorn h10am-4.30pm) for fresh, home-cooked pa- (one hour) via Wigtown (15 minutes). ninis and fi lled crêpes. There’s also decent coff ee, gooey treats and outdoor seating. WIGTOWN POP 987 WHITHORN Wigtown is a huge success story. Economi- POP 867 cally run down for many years, the town’s Whithorn has a broad, attractive High St revival began in 1998 when it became Scot- which is virtually closed at both ends (it land’s National Book Town. Today 24 book- was designed to enclose a medieval mar- shops off er the widest selection of books in ket). There are few facilities in town, but Scotland and give book enthusiasts the op- it’s worth visiting because of its fascinating portunity to get lost here for days. A major history. book festival (www.wigtownbookfestival.com) In 397, while the Romans were still in is held here in late September. Britain, St Ninian established the fi rst The Bookshop (www.the-bookshop.com; Christian mission beyond Hadrian’s Wall in 17 North Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) claims Whithorn (pre-dating St Columba on Iona to be Scotland’s largest secondhand book- by 166 years). After his death, Whithorn shop, and has a great collection of Scottish Priory, the earliest recorded church in Scot- land, was built to house his remains, and pleasant place if the scheduled waterfront Whithorn became the focus of an impor- redevelopment takes place. 177 tant medieval pilgrimage. Today the ruined priory is part of the ex- 1 Sights cellent Whithorn Trust Discovery Centre St John’s Castle CASTLE (www.whithorn.com; 45 George St; adult/child F(George St; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon- £4.50/2.25; h10.30am-5pm Apr-Oct), which in- Sat Easter–mid-Sep) Worth a quick visit, St troduces you to the history of the place with John’s Castle was built in 1510 by the Adairs a good audiovisual and very informative of Kihilt, a powerful local family. The old exhibition. There’s ongoing archaeological stone cells carry a distinctly musty smell. investigation here, and you can see the site There are displays and a couple of videos of earlier churches. There’s also a museum that trace its history and, from the top of with some fascinating early Christian stone the castle, superb views of and sculptures, including the Latinus Stone the ferries chugging out to Ireland. (c 450), reputedly Scotland’s oldest Chris- Stranraer Museum MUSEUM tian artefact. Learn about the infl uences F(55 George St; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, SOUTHERN SCOTLAND DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY their carvers drew on, from around the 10am-4pm Sat) This museum houses ex- British Isles and beyond. hibits on local history and you can learn about Stranraer’s polar explorers. The ISLE OF WHITHORN highlight is the carved stone pipe from POP 400 Madagascar. The Isle of Whithorn, once an island but now linked to the mainland by a causeway, is a curious place with an attractive natural 4 Sleeping & Eating harbour and colourful houses. The roofl ess oCorsewall Lighthouse Hotel 13th-century St Ninian’s Chapel, probably HOTEL £££ built for pilgrims who landed nearby, is on ( %01776-853220; www.lighthousehotel.co.uk; Kirk- SIGHTS STRANRAER the windswept, evocative rocky headland. colm; d incl 5-course dinner £150-250; p) It’s just SIGHTS Around Burrow Head, to the southwest but you and the cruel sea out here at this fabu- accessed from a path off the A747 before lously romantic 200-year-old lighthouse, you enter the Isle of Whithorn, is St Nin- right at the northwest tip of the peninsula, ian’s Cave, where the saint went to pray. 13 miles northwest of Stranraer. On a sunny The 300-year-old Dunbar House day, the water shimmers with light, and you can see Ireland, Kintyre, Arran, and Ailsa (%01988-500336; [email protected]; Ton- derghie Rd; s/d £23/40) overlooking the har- Craig. But when the wind and rain beat in, bour has two large, bright, perfect rooms it’s just great to be cosily holed up in the that share a spotless bathroom. It’s a bar- snug bar-restaurant or snuggling under the gain at this price, and cordially run. You covers in your room. Rooms in the light- can admire the view while tucking into house building itself are attractive if neces- your breakfast in the dining room. sarily compact; chalets are also available. The quayside Steam Packet Inn (%01988- Balyett Farm Hostel & B&B B&B, HOSTEL ££ 500334; www.steampacketinn.com; Harbour Row; ( %01776-703395; www.balyettbb.co.uk; Cairn- r per person £35, without bathroom £30; c) is a ryan Rd; dm/s/d £20/45/65; pW) A mile north popular pub with real ales, scrumptious bar of town on the A77, Balyett provides tran- meals (mains £8 to £10), a snug bar and com- quil accommodation in its tidy hostel sec- fy lodgings. Try to get a room to the front of tion, which accommodates fi ve people and the building as they have lovely views over has a kitchen/living area. The relaxed B&B the little harbour (No 2 is a good one). at the nearby ivy-covered farmhouse could be the best deal in town. The rooms are light, bright and clean as a whistle. Room Stranraer No 2 is our fave but all are beautifully furn- POP 10,851 ished and come with lovely aspects over the The friendly but somewhat ramshackle fer- surrounding country. ry port of Stranraer is gradually seeing its Ivy House B&B ££ boat services to Northern Ireland move up ( %01776-704176; www.ivyplace.worldonline.co. the road to Cairnryan. Though locals fear uk; 3 Ivy Pl; s/d £30/56) This is a great guest- it’ll turn their town into a ghostly shadow house and does Scottish hospitality proud, of what it was, it’ll probably become a more with excellent facilities, tidy en suite rooms North Strand St; h24hr), just up from the tour- 178 and a smashing breakfast. Nothing is too ist offi ce. much trouble for the hosts, who always P&O (%0871 66 44 777; www.poirishsea.com) have a smile for their guests. The room at Runs six to seven ferries a day from Cairnryan to the back overlooking the churchyard is par- Larne (Northern Ireland). ticularly light and quiet. Stena Line (%08447 70 70 70; www.stenaline. co.uk; passenger/car £27/100) Runs fi ve to North West Castle Hotel HOTEL ££ seven HSS and Superferries from Stranraer to ( %01776-704413; www.northwestcastle.co.uk; Belfast. This service is set to move to Cairnryan Port Rodie; s/d £85/130; pWs) Elegant and in late 2011. old fashioned, this is the most luxurious ho- tel in Stranraer and was formerly the home Bus of Arctic explorer Sir John Ross. It’s a little Scottish Citylink buses run to Glasgow (£16.20, fussy, but even though an interior designer 2½ hours, twice daily) and Edinburgh (£18.80, would tut-tut over the busy designs and 3¾ hours, twice daily). clash of colours, the rooms are sumptuous There are also several daily local buses to Kirkcudbright and the towns along the A75, such SOUTHERN SCOTLAND indeed. Try to get a front-facing room for sea views. But here’s the real puller: it was as Newton Stewart (45 minutes, at least hourly) the fi rst hotel in the world to have an indoor and Dumfries (£7.40, 2¼ hours, nine daily Mon- day to Saturday, three on Sunday). curling rink. Train L’Aperitif BISTRO ££ ( %01776-702991; London Rd; mains £11-14; First Scotrail runs to/from Glasgow (£19.30, 2¼ hours, two to seven trains daily); it may be nec- hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Purgatory at dinnertime can look uncannily like Stran- essary to change at Ayr. raer at times, so thank the powers that be for this cheerful local. It’s defi nitely the DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY town’s best restaurant and is close to being Around Stranraer its best pub too. Despite the name, dishes Magnifi cent Gardens are more Italian than French, with great (www.castlekennedygardens.co.uk; Rephad; pastas alongside roasts, saltimbocca, and adult/child £4/1; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Sep, delicious appetisers featuring things like 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Feb-Mar & Oct), 3 miles smoked salmon or greenlip mussels. Early east of Stranraer, are among the most fa- dining (£13.50 for two courses) is lighter on mous in Scotland. They cover 30 hectares the wallet. and are set on an isthmus between two Aird Donald Caravan Park CAMPING £ lochs and two castles (Castle Kennedy, (%01776-702025; www.aird-donald.co.uk; burnt in 1716, and Lochinch Castle, built in London Rd; sites £12-13; p) The nearest 1864). The landscaping was undertaken in tent-friendly campground is 1 mile east of 1730 by the Earl of Stair, who used unoc- the town centre. It has manicured lawns, cupied soldiers to do the work. Buses 430 plenty of trees and countless bunnies. (hourly) and 500 from Stranraer stop here.

8 Information Library (North Strand St; h9.15am-7.30pm Portpatrick Mon-Wed & Fri, to 5pm Thu & Sat; i) Free POP 585 internet access. Portpatrick is a charming port on the rug- ged west coast of the Rhinns of Galloway Tourist office (%01776-702595; www.visitdum friesandgalloway.com; stranraer@visitscotland. peninsula. Until the mid-19th century it com; 28 Harbour St; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) was the main port for Northern Ireland but Efficient and friendly. it’s now a quiet holiday resort. It is also a good base from which to ex- 8 Getting There & Away plore the south of the peninsula, and it’s the Boat starting point for the Southern Upland Way (p 138 ). You can follow part of the way Cairnryan is 6 miles north of Stranraer on the to Stranraer (9 miles). It’s a cliff top walk, eastern side of Loch Ryan. Bus 358 runs fre- quently to Cairnryan (terminating at the post followed by sections of farmland and hea- offi ce). For a taxi to Cairnryan (around £8), ther moor. Start at the way’s information contact McLean’s Taxis (%01776-703343; 21 shelter at the northern end of the harbour. The walk is waymarked until 800m south warm waters of the Gulf Stream give the of Stranraer, where you get the fi rst good peninsula the mildest climate in Scotland. 179 views of the village. This mildness is demonstrated at Logan Harbour House Hotel (%01776-810456; Botanic Garden (www.rbge.org.uk/logan; www.theharbourhousehotel.co.uk; 53 Main St; s/d adult/child £5/1; h10am-4pm Sun Feb, 10am- £40/80) was formerly the customs house 5pm daily Mar & Oct, 10am-6pm daily Apr-Sep), a but is now a popular, solid old pub. Some mile north of Port Logan, where an array of the tastefully furnished rooms have bril- of subtropical fl ora includes tree ferns and liant views over the harbour. The hotel is cabbage palms. The garden is an outpost also a warm nook for a traditional bar meal of the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh. (£8 to £10). Port Logan itself is a sleepy place with a de- For a real dose of luxury, head 3 miles cent pub and excellent sandy beach. southeast to Knockinaam Lodge (%01776- Further south, Drummore is a fi shing 810471; www.knockinaamlodge.com; dinner, bed village on the east coast. From here it’s & breakfast for 2 £320-420; pW), a former another 5 miles to the , hunting lodge on a little sandy bay. It’s Scotland’s most southerly point. It’s a spec- where plotted the endgame of tacular spot, with windswept green grass SOUTHERN SCOTLANDDUMFRIES & GALLOWAY WWII – you can stay in his suite – and it’s and views of Scotland, England, 19 miles a very romantic place to get away from it south to the and 26 miles west all. The excellent French-infl uenced cuisine to Northern Ireland. The 26m-high light- (lunch/dinner £38/50) is backed up by a house (adult/child £2/1; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun great range of wines and single malts. Easter-Oct, plus Mon Jul & Aug) here was built See also the Hotel by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of the (p 177) for accommodation not too far away. writer, in 1826. You can learn more about Buses 358 and 367 run to Stranraer (20 the Stevenson clan of lighthouse builders minutes, eight Monday to Saturday, three in the small exhibition (adult/child £2/1; SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING SOUTH OF PORTPATRICK

Sunday). h10am-4pm) at the lighthouse’s base. The & EATING SLEEPING Mull of Galloway RSPB nature reserve, home to thousands of seabirds, has a visi- South of Portpatrick tor centre (www.rspb.org.uk; h10am-5pm) From Portpatrick, the road south to the with plenty of information on local species, Mull of Galloway passes coastal scenery including where to see them. There’s also that includes rugged cliff s, tiny harbours a cafe here. and sandy beaches. Dairy cattle graze on The former homes of the lightkeepers are the greenest grass you’ve ever seen, and the now available to stay in; check out www. ntsholidays.com.

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