Influencermania by Didier Lourenço Cover Magazine Pambianco

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Influencermania by Didier Lourenço Cover Magazine Pambianco - N° 14 2016 XII MAGAZINE Anno NUMERI, FATTI E PROTAGONISTI DELLA MODA E DEL LUSSO 5 EURO 2016 - IL LUSSO TORNA A VIAGGIARE Segnali positivi dai duty free 2016 NOVEMBRE LA CONCIA CORRE IN AUTO Analisi Pambianco sulla pelletteria XII - N°14 10 MIRANDA’S SECRETS Nel backstage con la Kerr Poste Italiane - In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CMP di Roserio per la restituzione al mittente previo pagamento resi ANNO Italiane - In caso di mancato recapitoPoste inviare al CMP di Roserio per la restituzione mittente previo pagamento resi MAGAZINE CONTRO SOCIAL INFLUENCERMANIA BY DIDIER LOURENÇO COVER PAMBIANCO MAGAZINE PAMBIANCO Libro 1.indb 1 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 2 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 3 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 4 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 5 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 6 07/11/16 11:18 Libro 1.indb 7 07/11/16 11:19 EDITORIALE LA SFIDA DEL FUTURO SARÀ MULTICHANNEL di David Pambianco ’ultimo a dirlo in modo chiaro è stato l’amministratore delegato di Va- lentino, Stefano Sassi: “Da un paio d’anni, il lusso si trova in una fase ri- Lflessiva che ha fermato l’espansione delle reti vendita”. Già nel convegno di Pambianco dello scorso novembre, era emerso il tema centrale della fine della retail expansion. Nel corso di quest’anno, poi, sono stati diversi i segnali concreti di un ripensamento delle strategie di distribuzione da parte delle griffe, a comin- ciare dalle chiusure in Cina. È il momento di ragionare su ciò che seguirà questa fase. Lo scenario è quanto mai complesso e accelerato, ma sembra esserci un punto di partenza indiscutibi- le: la nuova era si giocherà su un piano “multichannel”. Questo proporrà sfide trasversali all’intero mondo del brand, dalla distribuzione al marketing fino al momento generatore, quello della creatività. Le aziende dovranno immaginare e realizzare prodotti diversi, tarati per canali differenti, in una sorta di moltiplicazione delle cosiddette “capsule collection”, che già sembra ben avviata. Inoltre, occorrerà tradurre le strategie in operazioni efficienti, effica- ci e, soprattutto, sempre più rapide. Perciò, chi riuscirà a precedere i concorrenti in termini di logistica, avrà un asso determinante in mano. Il passaggio all’era del multichannel, in ogni caso, dovrà essere capace di con- nettere il reale, di oggi, con il virtuale, di domani. Dove virtuale non è più sem- plicemente il sito Internet (vedi dossier di questo numero). Bensì è un universo polimorfo e polidimensionale, quello dei social, che alimenta fisiologicamente la multicanalità. “Bisogna accettare anche posizioni – ha ammesso di recente Patri- zio Bertelli di Prada – che qualche anno fa non avremmo accettato”. Gli ha fatto eco il patron di Tod’s Diego Della Valle: “Va ancora tutto verificato. Stiamo tutti cercando il nostro abito su misura. La velocità cambia e sicuramente dobbiamo adeguarci”. È la conferma di quanto gli analisti di Exane Bnp Paribas esprimevano qualche tempo fa in una ricerca che evidenziava le ancora scarse connessioni tra l’attività Instagram dei marchi e il loro e-commerce. I brand sono in una fase di “catch- up mode”, concludeva l’analisi. Ovvero, stanno aspettando le carte buone per giocare su tutti i tavoli del futuro multicanale. 8 PAMBIANCO MAGAZINE 10 novembre 2016 Libro 1.indb 8 07/11/16 11:19 Libro 1.indb 9 07/11/16 11:19 SOMMARIO GIORNALISTI GAME OVER 32 DOSSIER TEMPO DI INFLUENCER: IL SITO NON BASTA PIÙ La moda affronta una svolta strutturale di comunicazione. Le aziende ‘studiano’ da editori, ma si confrontano con media inesplorati. Per contro, il sistema giornalistico perde colpi (e budget) a favore dei social. Anche le top model, oggi, si pagano in base ai follower. IL LUSSO RI-VIAGGIA Dal Tfwa, segnali positivi sul 2016. Nonostante i timori geopolitici, i duty free rimangono strategici. 43 58 ANALISI BACKSTAGE 52 L’AUTO TIRA LA CONCIA I SEGRETI DI MIRANDA La pelle per l’interno-vettura traina TRAVEL RETAIL Da Angelo di Victoria’s Secret a il settore. Uno studio Pambianco imprenditrice di successo. La Kerr conferma il consolidamento in atto. svela le priorità: il figlio. E Snapchat. 10 PAMBIANCO MAGAZINE 10 novembre 2016 Libro 1.indb 10 07/11/16 11:19 SOMMARIO ABBIAMO PARLATO DI... 12 NEWS DALL’ITALIA E DAL MONDO 31 DOSSIER Giornalisti game over 32 Il sito non basta più 35 Patinati contro social 38 Elite: “Cercasi @topmodel” Peter Dundas P. 1 2 John Richmond P. 1 4 Renzo Rosso P. 1 6 43 ANALISI La concia corre in auto 49 TRAVEL RETAIL 49 Fondaco formato lusso 52 Le griffe tornano in viaggio Federica Marchionni P. 2 4 Selena Gomez P. 2 6 Michael Kors P. 2 6 55 INCHIESTA Monobeauty superstar In copertina: Didier Lourenço 58 BACKSTAGE Tienes Un Mensage I segreti di Miranda Oil On Canvas, 100 x 100 cm. Courtesy of Barnadas Huang Gallery, Singapore 63 TENDENZE Cover story a pag. 82 Pelliccia con brio 76 OPENINGS QUESTIONE DI NUMERI TRUMP, NOTTE A 100MILA$ 123 È il costo della suite nel nuovo hotel del 456 tycoon Usa, a due passi dalla Casa Bianca. 789 A pagina 74 ...ogni giorno sul web BACKSTAGE CRESCE IL RETAIL CONVEGNO PAMBIANCO SCARICA LA APP Dall’Italia all’estero le aziende italiane Protagonisti e approfondimenti dalla DI PAMBIANCONEWS inaugurano nuovi store. XXI edizione in Borsa di Milano. Per abbonarti stampa e compila la scheda su: www.pambianconews.com/abbonamenti/ 10 novembre 2016 PAMBIANCO MAGAZINE 11 Libro 1.indb 11 07/11/16 11:19 ITALIA O’Shea esce Cavalli perde Dundas da Brioni e lascia Milano Justin O’Shea non è più direttore creativo di Brioni. La maison del gruppo Kering ha annunciato, a soli sei mesi della nomina, l’uscita di O’Shea dal team creativo. Il designer aveva occupato il posto lasciato vacante un mese prima da Mullane. NeroGiardini, addio (pubblico) a theMicam NeroGiardini annuncia l’addio a theMicam. Dal 2017, il brand di calzature non sarà presente nei padiglioni di Rho Fiera, a Milano. La decisione è stata diffusa con una nota aziendale ed è stata presa dopo una riunione con gli agenti della rete vendita italiana ed estera. Peter Dundas opo solo un anno e mezzo e tre sta- gioni, il direttore creativo di Roberto Eurazeo vende Cavalli, Peter Dundas, lascia il pro- Pucci abbandona un altro 6% di Moncler Dprio ruolo all’interno della maison. L’ultima Firenze Eurazeo continua ad alleggerire la collezione dello stilista è stata dunque quella quota in Moncler. Il fondo di private presentata a Milano lo scorso settembre. Ma Emilio Pucci lascia Firenze alla volta di Milano. In un comunicato stampa equity francese, tramite la controllata non è l’unica novità in casa Cavalli. L’azienda Ecip M, ha annunciato la vendita di 15 ha anche annunciato un progetto di “riorga- della casa di moda fiorentina, oggi del gruppo Lvmh, si apprende che milioni di azioni Moncler, pari a circa il nizzazione aziendale”. Il progetto, si legge in 6% del capitale. un comunicato, “è finalizzato al ritorno alla “la decisione della Emilio Pucci di redditività a livello operativo della società nel trasferire i dipendenti della sede 2018 e ad assicurare solide prospettive per fiorentina negli uffici di Milano il rilancio del marchio”. La riorganizzazione è stata presa per riunire tutte le prevede la semplificazione dell’assetto azien- funzioni non produttive in un’unica dale oltre alla chiusura della sede e dell’ufficio sede. L’obiettivo è creare una stile di Milano, con il trasferimento di tutte maggiore efficienza e una migliore le funzioni a Osmannoro (FI). Inoltre, è pre- sinergia operativa”. L’attività di vista la razionalizzazione della produzione, Emilio Pucci sarà scissa su due poli: della logistica e della rete retail, attraverso uno produttivo, a Bologna, e l’altro, una serie di chiusure e/o ricollocazione di creativo e commerciale a Milano. alcuni negozi. Il progetto, infine, prevede una riduzione dell’organico a livello mondo di circa 200 dei 672 dipendenti complessivi. La griffe, acquisita per il 90% da un gruppo Castiglioni saluta Marni di investitori guidati dal fondo Clessidra, Arriva Risso ha chiuso il 2015 con un fatturato di 179,7 Consuelo Castiglioni lascia Marni, il milioni di euro, in calo del 14,2% rispetto marchio fondato nel 1994 insieme all’esercizio 2014. L’ebitda consolidato al 31 al marito Gianni e di cui era direttore dicembre 2015 era negativo per 1,6 milioni, creativo. Al suo posto arriva da Prada mentre l’utile netto aveva raggiunto i 32,7 Francesco Risso. milioni di euro, in miglioramento rispetto al rosso di 9,7 milioni del 2014. 12 PAMBIANCO MAGAZINE 10 novembre 2016 Libro 1.indb 12 07/11/16 11:19 Libro 1.indb 13 07/11/16 11:19 ITALIA Moleskine, D’Ieteren compra 41% e lancia Opa Il gruppo belga D’Ieteren ha annun- pari a 506 milioni. Non solo, D’Ieteren ciato di aver sottoscritto un accordo proporrà un’ulteriore offerta pubbli- per acquisire una partecipazione del ca di acquisto obbligatoria, allo stesso 41% di Moleskine, società quotata sulla prezzo, sulle azioni rimanenti, indipen- Borsa di Milano e celebre per i taccu- dente dal raggiungimento di alcuna ini utilizzati da Ernest Hemingway e soglia di adesione. Nel caso però venga Bruce Chatwin, dagli azionisti Appunti raggiunta la soglia necessaria, allora il (Syntegra Capital) e Pentavest (Index gruppo belga effettuerà il delisting delle Ventures). azioni Moleskine dalla Borsa di Milano. D’Ieteren ha offerto 2,4 euro per azio- L'obiettivo del gruppo che fa capo all'o- ne, contro i 2,3 dello sbarco in Piazza monima famiglia è quello di "essere il Affari nel 2013, a cui corrisponde una partner di riferimento per coloro che valutazione dell'equity della società costruiscono business di successo".
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