RECYCLING CHIC MEMORIES WILL.I.AM TEAMS UP WITH OF MARVIN COCA-COLA IN A SERIES FASHION INDUSTRY OF FASHION EXECUTIVES RECALL THE COLLABORATIONS LIFE OF MARVIN TRAUB. TO PUSH RECYCLING. PAGE 3 PAGE MW1

WWDTHURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 BATTLE OF THE BURCHES Tor y Sets Strategy For Suit vs. Chris Wolinsky of Wachtell, Lipton, Rosen By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD & Katz said he plans on entering counterclaims that will include un- TORY BURCH is punching back. fair competition, breach of fi duciary Three weeks after Christopher duty, breach of contract and a viola- Burch fi led a lawsuit claiming his tion of intellectual property. ex-wife thwarted his attempts to The allegations relate to sell his stake in her fashion com- Christopher Burch’s involvement pany, Tory Burch, through her law- in Tory Burch LLC and his at- yer, shed some light on her legal tempts to sell his stake. The en- strategy going forward. The details trepreneur, who helped launch were revealed as the two sides the women’s fashion brand when continue to spar — this time over he was married to Burch, is one of the timing by when Tory Burch two of the company’s largest share- has to fi le a response to her former holders, along with his former husband’s suit. wife. Both Burches each own 28.3 Tory Burch on Wednesday fi led percent of the shares of the com- a motion for an extension of the pany, which, according to reports, deadline by which a response must is valued at $2 billion. be fi led, while Christopher Burch There’s also the issue of C. countered with a motion of his own, Wonder, Christopher Burch’s low- seeking an expedited decision. er-priced retail venture. Since When Tory Burch does file C. Wonder launched last year, her response, her attorney Marc SEE PAGE 8 Karl’s New Beauty Deal business to match Lagerfeld’s tow- By MILES SOCHA ering fashion reputation and inter- national renown. PARIS — Seizing on the flurry of “He is one of the most talented business initiatives around Karl designers in the world, if not the Lagerfeld — and his long-stand- most talented, which makes it a SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS ing passion for perfume — Inter huge opportunity to develop fra- Parfums SA has signed on as the grance under his name,” the ex- designer’s new fragrance licensee, ecutive told WWD. WWD has learned. Inter Parfums inked a 20-year “It’s our job now to work to re- contract with Karl Lagerfeld B.V., L.A. veal this important potential,” and expects to introduce its fi rst fra- said Philippe Benacin, chairman grance in late 2014, Benacin noted. and chief executive offi cer of Inter The French firm takes over Parfums SA, the French subsidiary following the expiration of a per- of Inter Parfums Inc. fume pact with Coty B.V., which in The executive said he would 2005 acquired Unilever’s global “start from scratch” to build a SEE PAGE 8 Twinkle Twins They’re creepy and they’re kooky…and very appealing. Anything goes at Los Angeles Fashion Week, as Bohemian Society’s pair of diaphanous silk parachute numbers proved that the dark side can also be light, both fi guratively and literally. And in a nod to Katy Perry’s Met gala gown, designer Victor Wilde added a dramatic LED touch to the looks. For more from the Los Angeles collections, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY AMY GRAVES

2 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012

Conservative Planning Helped Jones’ Q3 THE BRIEFING BOX cent uptick to $89.7 million for that’s also the segment that has IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG the international retail opera- held up well, particularly in tion. There were 100 fewer Jones Western Europe, despite what NEW YORK — Despite one-time U.S. stores in operation in the has been a difficult retail back- charges that hurt the bottom current quarter·· compared with drop. The company’s business in line, The Jones Group Inc. had last year. Asia is still relatively small com- a good third quarter as conser- In a conference call to Wall pared with that in Europe. vative inventory planning and Street analysts, Wesley R. Card, Stuart Weitzman was a top operating margin improvement chief executive officer, said, “I’m performer in the quarter with boosted results. very pleased to note that our strong worldwide sales and good Net income for the period at- operating margin improved to international comps, said Card. tributable to Jones sharehold- 7.1 percent this quarter, which Its other top footwear and acces- ers for the three months ended exceeds the 6.7 percent we re- sories performer is Kurt Geiger, Sept. 29 dropped 57.6 percent to corded last year in 2011....Our which is London-centric and geo- $17.4 million, or 22 cents a dilut- approach to planning in the cur- graphically where Card noted ed share, from $41 million, or 49 rent economic and political en- that the luxury consumer has cents, a year ago. Excluding one- vironment is paying dividends. started to spend again. Maryna Linchuk time charges and other adjust- and Elena STEVE EICHNER ments related to foreign curren- Perminova at the cies, the company said adjusted H&M party. per-share profits were 57 cents Our approach to planning in the PHOTO BY versus 48 cents last year. That Tory Burch shed some light on her legal strategy going bested Wall Street’s adjusted ex- current economic and political forward in battle with ex-husband Christopher Burch over his pectations by 25 cents. attempts to sell his stake in her fashion company. PAGE 1 Revenues were essentially flat, down 0.8 percent to $1.03 environment is paying dividends. Karl Lagerfeld has signed a new fragrance license with billion from $1.04 billion, which — WESLEY R. CARD, THE JONES GROUP INC. Inter Parfums SA, following the expiration of his old deal with included a 0.5 percent dip in Coty Inc. PAGE 1 net sales to $1.02 billion from $1.03 billion. Hundreds of apparel industry executives and designers By business segment, the turned out at a memorial service Wednesday at New York best-performing category in the And we continue to plan conser- In Asia, Card noted that in the City Center to pay homage to Marvin Traub. PAGE 3 quarter was domestic wholesale vatively as we proceed through better zone, brands such as Nine footwear and accessories, which 2012 into 2013.” West have continued to see some Dior on Thursday raised the curtains — quite literally — on a climbed 9.7 percent to $289.9 mil- In a telephone interview, slowdown in sales, but empha- completely renovated Rodeo Drive flagship. PAGE 6 lion. Domestic wholesale jeans- Card said the company’s jeans- sized that “business is still good.” wear was second, at an 8.1 per- wear has been a “phenomenal Card said the predictions Four women were honored Wednesday by the International cent gain to $202.3 million. business.” He attributed the for holiday indicate an expec- Women’s Media Foundation, but only three of the journalists In contrast, domestic whole- performance to the design team tation that it will be a “robust were able to attend the event. PAGE 6 sale sportswear was the worst- for being ahead of the competi- Christmas season.” The ceo performing category, with tion with product offerings, from noted the consumer has been Helmut Lang, which has art in its DNA, is teaming up with sales dropping 14.4 percent to both a color and fabrication resilient so far this·· year, adding Grey Area, the online store and gallery by Kyle DeWoody and $208.7 million, due in part to a standpoint. that Thanksgiving will be early Manish Vora, for holiday. PAGE 7 planned reduction in shipments Jeanswear for holiday has and the extra week will be a of Jones New York product and included more patterns and boost to holiday shopping. Will.i.am is out to make recycling fashionable — with an the change in the retail strat- prints on colors. For spring, Richard Dickson, president assist from The Coca-Cola Co. and apparel and accessories egy at J.C. Penney. International Card expects color to remain a and chief executive officer of partners like Levi’s, New Era, Rvca and MCM. PAGE MW1 wholesale sales fell 5.3 percent dominant theme and that ani- branded business at Jones, said, to $94.3 million. mal prints on colored denim the company has more gift-giv- Alexander McQueen has opened its first stand-alone For the retail businesses, the will likely be strong sellers, as ing programs for holiday this men’s wear store on London’s Savile Row. PAGE MW2 domestic retail segment — which well as anything printed that is year, coordinating with destina- includes Jones’ U.S. ready-to- viewed as different. tion products and key items that Club Monaco has opened its first stand-alone men’s store wear outlets and its e-commerce About 21 percent of the firm’s are part of the specific initia- in Hong Kong’s Wanchai district. PAGE MW2 sites — declined 6.7 percent to business is international, and tives for each brand under the $140 million, offset by a 5.2 per- growing. According to Card, Jones portfolio. Mode et Finance has taken a minority stake in AMI Paris, the holding company for French men’s wear brand AMI Alexandre Mattiussi. PAGE MW2

A new breed of fashion brands is cropping up in the $672 Nike: One Brand Sold; One to Go million men’s underwear market that could mark a sea change in the business. PAGE MW6 1988 for $95 million, consisting of Umbro is a British soccer ON WWD.COM By VICKI M. YOUNG $80 million in cash and $15 million lifestyle brand founded in 1924 in debt. For the fiscal year ended by brothers Harold and Wallace H&M/Maison Martin Margiela party: H&M held a sprawling NIKE INC. has sold soccer brand May 31, Cole Haan’s revenues Humphreys. launch party for its latest high fashion collaboration, this year with Umbro to Iconix Brand Group rose 3 percent to $535 million. The Neil Cole, chief executive of- Maison Martin Margiela. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. Inc. at a discount to its purchase brand has 109 U.S. stores and an- ficer of Iconix, said, “Umbro is an price in 2008, and is expecting other 69 doors abroad. exciting acquisition with more bids today for footwear and ac- If Nike could get its asking than 30 licensees in over 100 CORRECTION cessories brand Cole Haan. price for Cole Haan, that would countries, with a devout follow- Nike said in May it was divest- offset the loss it took in the ing. We look forward to working In an obituary for Janet Reis on page 16, Wednesday, ing the two brands to “sharpen Umbro sale. with our international partners the relationship between Diane and Steve Gelon was its focus on driving growth in Iconix has inked an agree- to maintain and expand upon the incorrectly described. He is her brother. the Nike, Jordan, Converse and ment to buy Umbro for $225 mil- rich heritage of the brand.” Hurley brands.” lion, or a $357 million discount to Nike Inc. president and ceo TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. In September, when the Mark Parker said that as WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Cole Haan auction entered Nike’s category strategy COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. its second round, Apax has evolved, the company VOLUME 204, NO. 87. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues Partners, TPG Capital, believes “Nike Football in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Leonard Green & Partners can serve the needs of Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: and Genesco Inc. were said $357M footballers both on and off S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, to be in the running. the pitch.” and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax DISCOUNT IN PRICE FOR ICONIX Since then, Apax and TPG Iconix said the latest ac- Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver FROM NIKE’S 2008 UMBRO PURCHASE. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North continue to remain inter- quisition to the company’s Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. ested, financial sources said. brand umbrella will togeth- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or Sycamore Partners, which er generate “$13 billion in inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine acquired The Talbots Inc. this year the $582 million that Nike paid retail sales globally, with more is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. and a 51 percent stake in sourcing for the brand in 2008. than $2.5 billion attributable to You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt firm Mast Global Fashions last Iconix said Wednesday that the company’s portfolio of ath- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request year, is also said to be bidding for the transaction, which includes letic brands, which also includes for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Cole Haan. It couldn’t be deter- the intellectual property assets, Starter and Danskin.” www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that mined whether Leonard Green is expected to close by the end of Umbro is the second deal be- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at advanced to the next round of bid- the year. The brand-management tween Iconix and Nike. Iconix P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ding, although Genesco is believed firm also said it would disclose acquired the Starter brand from ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER to have dropped out. details of the transaction on Nike in 2007. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Nike is asking $500 million for Tuesday, when the company re- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Cole Haan, which it acquired in ports third-quarter earnings. FROM EVAN CLARK SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 3 WWD.COM Industry Turns Out for Traub Memorial head of cosmetics] commented, ‘Next part of my career. He hired me when I Traub said, “The excitement you brought to By SHARON EDELSON time, I’m going to bring my mother.’” came from Tiffany’s. He was proud of re- housewares, you’ll bring to cosmetics. We and JEAN E. PALMIERI He then read an ode to Marvin: “ Yo u cruiting the best in class.” had more demonstrators — you had to fight not only created a great store, but you “He never accepted that anything was your way down the main aisle. We spent a NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren said he created a great brand with your creativ- impossible,” Spring said. “He had a dif- lifetime together, it seems.” was a “Marvin child.” Leonard Lauder ity, drive, vision and grace,” he said. “ Yo u ferent thought process.” Arnold Aronson, managing director of called him a “serious merchant” and a leave behind an army of admirers. And Mortimer Singer described how retail strategies at Kurt Salmon, said, “I “road warrior.” And Michael Gould said you’re my North Star.” Traub’s portrait — which had been once asked him, ‘Did you ever think of get- the two shared a passion from a unique Gould, who succeeded Traub as enlarged to gigantic proportions for ting a vacation house in Florida?’ He said, perspective, Bloomingdale’s. Bloomingdale’s ceo, said the first time the the stage — was commissioned by ‘Never, it’s full of old people.’” Aronson The three were among the speakers at two met was a “less than wonderful experi- Bloomingdale’s when Traub retired. continued, “He was my rabbi for 50 years. a memorial service Wednesday morning ence,” as they had a disagreement over mer- “ Yo u see him impeccable and larger He was one of my first bosses. He sent me at New York City Center for Marvin Traub, chandise. “But that’s irrelevant,” he said. than life,” Singer said. “He’s wearing his away for eight weeks around the world the former Bloomingdale’s chief execu- Gould admitted that he wasn’t on Legion d’Honneur pin and the tie Ralph with a big Bloomingdale’s checkbook.” tive officer who died in July. Hundreds of Traub’s “short or long list” to succeed Lauren gave him. I know Marvin would Sue Kronick, former vice chair- fashion industry executives and designers him at Bloomingdale’s, but ultimately, have loved this giant replica.” man of Macy’s Inc., said she learned the turned out at the service to power of connections from pay homage to the impresario Andrew Lee Traub. When Kronick de- of retail theater. Rosen Traub cided to indulge her interest “I’m here because I’m a in India with a trip to that Marvin child,” said Lauren. country, Traub, then a fam- “I’m one of his people.” ily friend, insisted she meet He credited Traub with Ruth Prawer Jhabvala, the not only helping him launch Academy Award-winning his career by taking a chance screenwriter. When she re- on his ties, but encouraging turned from India, she went him to think big. “Marvin to work at Bloomingdale’s for was a giant,” he said. “He Gribetz. “In the last 20 years, gave me my world. He said, Andrea we had more breakfasts and ‘Ralph, what else can you Jung lunches together,” she said. do?’ His encouragement was “I met Marvin 41 years very important to my life. ago when I was peddling “Thank you for all the shirts to Bloomingdale’s,” years I had at your shoulder said Larry Leeds, chair- with your arm around me,” man of Buckingham Capital Lauren said, adding that Management. “He adopted me Traub once offered to pay and invited me to breakfast at his bills when he hit upon the Regency.” The Traubs and hard times and was the first Leeds began going to the the- customer in his store at the ater and ballet and traveling Rhinelander Mansion. “He together. “We had a designer and Lee [Traub’s wife] were in our company named in there picking out shirts, ties Perry Ellis,” Leeds FOR MORE and suits,” he said. “Thank IMAGES, SEE said. “I introduced you for giving me my career.” him to Marvin, and he Lauder told the audience THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD.com/ helped Perry succeed.” Leonard Fern Mallis and that they shouldn’t mourn retail-news. Gribetz perhaps Lauder Jerry Lauder the loss of Traub, but instead summed up what strive to “carry on his work.” PHOTOS BY many in the audience He said he often traveled with the retail- the two became friends. They would Lauren joked later: “I think that’s my were thinking. There was a side of Marvin er to exotic locations such as Indonesia often have breakfast or lunch and always shirt and my suit, too.” Traub “that was difficult to know,” he said. and Kenya and the Traubs “organized ev- walk the floors of the store together. He Lester Gribetz, who worked alongside “When one of our cosmetics buyers got erything.” So one day, Lauder proposed said after Traub was gone, a letter sur- Traub for 42 years before becoming presi- AIDS and was wasting away in the hospi- a game of musical chairs, “because that faced that expressed pride in his “close dent of Lenox Corp., recalled being hired tal, Marvin pointed out that hospital food was the only thing I thought I could beat friendship with Mike Gould.” Welling into the Bloomingdale’s training program. left many patients with no appetite. We Marvin at,” he said. up, he said: “He realized that in my way, His first assignment from Traub was repair- sent food to the hospital twice a day and But although they were friends, my very different way, my passion for his ing bicycles at the Hunter’s Point ware- Marvin paid for it from his own pocket. when it came to Bloomingdale’s, Traub store was as powerful and strong as his.” house. “I said, ‘I’m Jewish, I don’t know how “Two weeks before Marvin passed was all business. Anne Keating, Bloomingdale’s senior to do anything mechanical.’” (Gribetz got his away, we had lunch at the Four Seasons,” Lauder recalled a visit he and his vice president of public relations, and older brother to help him with the bikes.) Gribetz said. “He told me what he was mother, Estée Lauder, made to see Traub Tony Spring, president and chief operat- The project caught Traub’s attention. doing and then he turned to me and said, when the Lauders weren’t happy with ing officer, arrived at the memorial ser- “Housewares is alive,” Gribetz recalled ‘Isn’t it wonderful that two old men are their counter position. “She started to vice together on Wednesday in the gloom Traub saying. “We built the Main Course. here and still working.’ If there’s a Four cry and got her way,” he recalled, adding of a misty rain. “He’s part of my career,” We had Julia Child, Craig Claiborne and the Seasons up there, Marvin will regale me that Mike Blumenfeld [Bloomingdale’s Keating said of Traub. “He’s always been Naked Chef ” doing demonstrations. Then about how he’s changing heaven.”

A pendant from Karatas’ challenging and sat- Jewelry Line to Benefit Youth Mentor Program Esperanto isfying,” added Gang, “The Karatas [Esperanto] col- collection. also a former teacher. By RACHEL STRUGATZ lection is a valuable contribution According to Jeffrey to Mentoring USA. Proceeds from Beri — who oversees op- NEW YORK — Karatas is look- sales will benefit one to one youth erations for the company ing to raise awareness for litera- mentoring for at-risk children in that span brand and market- cy and learning advocacy. New York City and cities through- ing development, manufactur- The brand has partnered out the country,” Cuomo Cole said ing, e-commerce infrastruc- with nonprofit group Mentoring of the first jewelry collection to ture and retail production USA, a division of Help USA, benefit the cause. — the plan is to launch which was founded by Matilda Prices for the Esperanto line initially with e-com-

Raffa Cuomo and which she range from $125 for a small sil- GEORGE CHINSEE merce and then enter runs with her daughter, Maria ver letter on a leather cord to the wholesale market Cuomo Cole. $575 for a silver cuff with 18- by targeting high-end PHOTOS BY The fine jewelry company, karat gold, to an entirely gold Jeffrey Beri, Matilda Raffa Cuomo, Carolyn Gang and Robyn Troob. specialty boutiques a self-funded venture estab- cuff retails for about $6,500 (the and department stores. lished in 2011 by Carolyn Gang of latter two featuring the entire in 1986 by New York Gov. Mario as an elementary teacher at In January, also National SeidenGang Designs and Robyn alphabet), with an average price Cuomo, and Mentoring USA the Dutch Broadway School in Mentoring Month, the line will Troob, will debut its Esperanto point of about $675. Materials was founded by his wife, Raffa Elmont, N.Y., before she became become available at Rocks collection today on karatasde- run the gamut from sterling Cuomo, as the first statewide, a mother and dedicated her life by Jolie B. Ray, a boutique in signs.com, with net profits going silver to 18-karat gold — with school-based, one-on-one men- to service (she continued to tutor Armonk, N.Y. to benefit Mentoring USA. The 20- accents such as leather cords, toring program in the U.S. in Spanish, though, she added). Beri revealed that, early next piece line is a collaborative effort diamonds, semiprecious and “It’s meaningful. We can start “I feel strongly about chil- year, a costume jewelry version of with Jennifer Fisher, whose knack precious stones and inspiration- a trend. The design is delight- dren and education. Mentoring the collection will make its debut for incorporating the letters of al words like “dazzle,” “shine,” ful,” Raffa Cuomo said, wearing and working with Maria and on QVC, comprised primarily of the alphabet into a range of neck- “empower,” “strive” and “fulfill.” a circular alphabet disc on a Matilda is both a privilege and bronze with silver accents. “We laces, pendants, cuffs, bracelets, Help USA — the national black leather cord. It’s clear the an honor. To have the opportuni- want to target the mass market earrings and rings resulted in a congressional model for ser- former first lady of New York is ty to help children with develop- with a careful, calculative roll- “modern twist on 26 of the most vices and housing for homeless passionate about the cause, as ing their skills through literacy out,” Beri said. “We want to make recognizable characters.” populations — was established she points out her first job was and learning in a creative way is it significantly personal.” 4 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 Spring 2013 LOS ANGELES

Odylyne COLLECTIONS Los Angeles Fashion Week — even more of a misnomer than New York as it runs all month — has evolved over the years into a small, independently driven event comprising various runway collectives and one-off presentations. Two major themes that emerged for spring were light and airy and Goth and edgy, opposing forces that exemplify style in the City of Angels.

ISM Paul Mode Redmond

Belle N. Matisse Louis Verdad

Shaina Mote

FOR MORE FROM THE SHOWS, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news. WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Mike Vensel Jen Awad

Luciana Salamone

Again

Crybaby Korovilas Presents

Skingraft Nami MartinMartin CXC by Camila X Castillo

Kittinhawk SHISLER ERIKA AND SARDELLA DONATO JONES, KATIE GRAVES, AMY BY PHOTOS 6 WWD thursday, october 25, 2012 Dior Ups the Ante on Rodeo Drive

By RAChEL BROWN ella D ar

LOS ANGELES — The reinvention road s show continues at Dior. A few weeks after creative director Donato

Raf Simons made his ready-to-wear run- by way debut for the French fashion house

and it unveiled a major reboot of the photos store on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, Dior raised the curtains — quite literal- ly, because the 24-foot facade of crystal, glass and chains was designed to evoke curtains hanging at a big hollywood pre- miere — Thursday on a completely reno- vated Rodeo Drive flagship. A sophisticated departure from the previous, simpler iteration of the store, the art-filled space ups the ante on the Beverly hills shopping thoroughfare, which is having a reinvention of its own at the moment with storefronts block- aded for construction as seemingly every prominent luxury name has a remodel in the works, including Prada, Bulgari and Louis Vuitton. Dior has a long history on Rodeo Drive, where it has operated the A look inside the store. 5,000-square-foot location on the pres- tigious 300 block since 1990. The com- pany’s chief executive officer Sidney Toledano suggested the store is more sories. Art in those salons important than ever as the profile of Los includes a piece on the Angeles rises. ceiling by Rob Wynne of “In L.A., it used to be only the film hand-poured mirrored industry. Now, you have high tech. Yo u glass in a cosmic pattern, a have all these artists. A lot is happen- tapestry by Pae White that ing in L.A. today, even in contemporary resembles crushed foil and art. I see more people from Europe wall-mounted, hand-blown, going to move and live there,” he said, dented silver mirrored glass adding that, “From a business point of by Jeff Zimmerman. view, it is a very good location. We see a The salon with rtw cur- bright future.” rently has the cruise collec- Architect Peter Marino compared the tion, and the fine jewelry decor to a private home or apartment salon is at the back of the with an incredible collection of furni- store. A VIP area is on the ture and art — more than 20 pieces are second floor. Some of the situated throughout the store. “It’s kind pieces contained in those of like how I want to live,” he remarked. rooms are a couch crafted Despite being awash in art, Toledano em- out of nickels by Johnny phasized the store isn’t a museum. “We Swing, a desk lamp and mir- don’t intend to sell those pieces even ror by Veronique Rivemale, though they are very attractive,” he said. a stainless steel sculpture “Somebody asked me, why [I] don’t put by James Morrison and the names on the pieces of art?’ In your a fireplace by Juan and apartment, you don’t put the names of Paloma Garrido topped with who did the art or the chairs. We want to framed pictures of Christian give the feeling of an apartment.” Dior and Princess Margaret The store is divided into five salons. to foster the store’s homi- The front one, which has a towering ness. “This has more artists ceiling, houses handbags, small leather than any other store I’ve goods and watches. “It is really like a done,” said Marino. “It just Art plays a major role throughout the store. long gallery that is mirrored at one end, goes on and on.” so it makes it feel like it goes on forev- Raf Simons didn’t have a hand in the ence in the store that will come when the brand are coming together nicely. er,” said Marino. The room features a Rodeo Drive store, but Dior’s creative his spring rtw collection is available in “What he [Marino] has achieved with film of Dior in various settings, a bench director is not absent from it. For the February. In Los Angeles, Toledano said, architecture is consistent with what the of interlocking ginko leaves made out launch, the windows will contain items “Raf ’s style will be very well accepted. company is expecting from Raf. Things of aluminum by French artist Claude from his first couture collection against I’m optimistic.” are going in the same direction,” he Lalanne and a rotating chandelier by Lee a backdrop of flowers — one window will Next up for Dior in the U.S. will said. “It is true for many projects we Bul with crystal, glass, steel, aluminum, have white phalaenopsis orchids and one be a redo of the Waikiki location in have in the company. There is a moment acrylic and wire. will have pink celosia, carnations and honolulu, a Dior homme store in Miami of convergence. There is a same willing- The center of the store has a salon hydrangeas — to reflect the floral abun- and a Dior store in Dallas. Although ness in the design, in the boutiques and dedicated to shoes and another dedi- dance spearheaded by florist Mark Colle change has been the rule of late at the in the communications, [where] people cated to a bag bar with exotic and spe- during the couture show. The windows fashion house, Toledano indicated that, are working with the same values of cialty bags, and other novelty acces- will foreshadow Simons’ broader pres- across the board, all the components of Dior in mind.”

Khadija Ismayilova, an Azerbaijani compels her to do her work. MoRE ThAn JUST Food: Bon Appétit has investigative journalist for Radio Free Seventy-year-old Pakistani editor, been hard at work to recast itself as MeMo pad Europe/Radio Liberty, has reported author and columnist Zubeida Mustafa a lifestyle magazine. During fashion about the president’s use of official received the lifetime achievement week, it expanded last year’s “Feast or FEARLESS FEMALES: Four women were power to further his personal business award. The first woman on the editorial Fashion” campaign, convincing some honored Wednesday by the International dealings. “I share the bitterness of board of Dawn, an English-language 40 restaurants to host joint dinners and Women’s Media Foundation. Only three not having Reeyot here, as she’s daily paper, Mustafa fought to get promotional events with designers. of the journalists were able to attend in prison,” Ismayilova said. The more coverage for women’s issues in And in December, it’s rolling out a new the event at Cipriani 42nd Street in New Azerbaijani regime counts on silence all sections of the paper. Yet when print and online marketing campaign to York, however. Reeyot Alemu, a columnist to “help them to continue depriving she went to interview the Pakistani promote what it calls “food lifestyle.” As for the Ethiopian publication Feteh, is their people of opportunities,” she president as part of the press corps, she part of the campaign, it’s asked readers in jail serving a five-year sentence after said. “The silence is so loud, it might was told “it was a stag party.” “Today, to submit photos evocative of the she wrote about the poverty and lack of deafen society.” the hens are having a field day,” she intersection of food and culture. balance in Ethiopia’s politics. Blogger and freelance journalist said. The awards were presented by The best photos — picked by judges In a letter Alemu wrote from prison Asmaa al-Ghoul was beaten, assaulted CBS News’ Leslie Stahl, ABC News’ Bob including ABC Kitchen chef dan Kluger in which she thanked the IWMF and tortured while doing her job in Woodruff, NBC News’ Ann Curry and Judy — will appear in the campaign, which for the award and underscored the Palestine’s Gaza Strip. “When I was Woodruff of PBS. The event was co- will unfold first online, on several dangers of repressive societies, she writing about female victims of honor hosted by ABC News/CNN’s Christiane trade-publication Web sites, and later in said, “For me, journalists are the voice killings, I felt those girls were calling Amanpour and Cynthia McFadden of ABC February in Condé Nast magazines. of the voiceless.” me,” al-Ghoul said, explaining what News. — ShARon EdELSon — ERIK MAZA

w25a006a;7.indd 6 10/24/12 7:57 PM 10242012195822 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS What’s That Racket, Margiela?

ON TUESDAY NIGHT at the corner FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE of Beekman and Nassau Streets in than 10,000 meters of silver-plated Manhattan’s Financial District, a bearded WWD.com/eye. thread, according to Saab. When all and balding street busker warbled through was said and done, the gown called a cover of Marvin Gaye’s “Sexual Healing.” for 50 meters of Chantilly lace, 40 In the brick building above him, H&M meters of Calais lace, 30 meters of was holding a launch party for its latest satin organza, 70 meters of tulle, silk high-fashion collaboration, this year with crepe for the lining, and 15 meters of Maison Martin Margiela. The more alert silk tulle for the veil. partygoers in the crowd might have noticed Saab said, “We met several times that the off-key street performance was to discuss the design of her gown. being piped in through the sound system At first, she explained to me what inside, a sly acknowledgement, it seemed, Martin Margiela Shelter Serra’s Engine Block will be on she had in mind and I came back of ’s occasional inside-out Kanye West display at Helmut Lang this holiday season. with different sketches. She design tendencies. in Maison then selected one of them and On Tuesday, the fast-fashion Martin we started working on it, choosing company’s event planners were left Margiela ART AND COMMERCE: Helmut Lang, the different fabrics, color, and to reconstruct the cult brand’s tics with H&M. which has art in its DNA, is teaming adapting the design.” throughout the nine floors of 5 Beekman up with Grey Area, the online store The designer was with his own Place. The Gilded Age building’s and gallery founded by Kyle DeWoody wife, Claudine, and one of their sons at condition stands somewhere between and Manish Vora, for holiday. The Luxembourg’s Notre Dame Cathedral a construction site and a historic fashion label designed by when the bride and groom exchanged landmark. VIP guests at the launch Michael and Nicole Colovos will their vows last weekend. event, who included Helena Christensen, exhibit an installation by artist — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker and

Shelter Serra called Engine Blocks Chace Crawford, walked bare concrete STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY at its boutiques Nov. 1 to Jan. 17. TIBI’S TURN: Tibi’s first pop-up instead of a red carpet. On the floors The project is not just for viewing shop opened last week in South above, a range of sculptural installations the official H&M with Maison Martin pleasure — Helmut Lang stores will Miami. Designer and founder by contemporary artists such as Daniel Margiela wares. Belgian choreographer also offer several gift items curated by Amy Smilovic doled out style tips Arsham and Noemie Goudal displayed Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker and members Grey Area, which specializes in artist- while presenting fall and holiday of her troupe danced on sand-covered designed objects. Items for sale will collections, including shoes, to squares throughout the space, leaving include James DeWoody’s note cards, shoppers at Jenna White’s namesake Richard Chai and a single garment behind on each. On Michelle Lopez’s Band-Aid rings and boutique, the week-long location Daniel Arsham the top floor, guests could shop the Serra’s Fake Roley bracelets. chosen for its strong brand following. collection two weeks ahead of its — MARC KARIMZADEH “Jenna’s grown to one of our top general release. The line to gain entry to specialty accounts in the U.S., the pop-up occasionally snaked down to THEIR SONG: Guests at the grand since writing the line seven years the floor below. opening party for Chopard’s Wynn ago,” said Smilovic, who sells to “People love to shop,” said Renzo Rosso, Las Vegas boutique this weekend approximately a dozen specialty founder of Margiela parent Only the Brave, will be attending an Elton John stores throughout Florida. eye as he stood outside the VIP area. “We just concert. A long-time supporter of Taking over the entire boutique bring the best pieces from the last 20 years, the Elton John AIDS Foundation, down to signage and packaging, and it’s very unique I think….” Chopard has something of an Tibi implemented an all-white Rosso arrived at roughly the same “in” with the singer. John is an backdrop to highlight merchandise time as Kanye West. With one surprisingly ambassador for the brand and had a and emphasize its clean aesthetic. catchy name-check on last year’s collection with Chopard in the past. Smilovic, who has a single surprise megahit, “N---as in Paris,” the Chopard USA president and chief freestanding store in New York, rapper likely raised the avant-garde executive officer Marc Hruschka, who said Miami is on her radar for retail house’s name recognition among the named “Tiny Dancer” as his favorite expansion. “It’s our goal to have a American listening public to previously tune from the singer, can testify that larger presence,” she said. unseen highs. West wore a lapel-less John’s concerts are usually not half — REBECCA KLEINMAN camel coat from the collection that bad. “I’m pretty spoiled, to be honest. retails for $199. I have seen more than a handful,” he HUBLOT’S NEWEST RETAIL BABY: “Look at you,” Rosso exclaimed. said. “I look forward to all of them. Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot, “I’m really happy about this coat,” He is unbelievable.” which already has eight boutiques West said as they made their way to a Of course, the real star of the in the U.S., has opened the first of The scene at 5 Beekman Street. waiting elevator. — MATTHEW LYNCH festivities is the 800-square-foot five to eight more shops that’s part Chopard store, which has been open of an aggressive expansion of the at the Wynn since May and replaces U.S. market planned over the next a store Chopard had at Caesars three years. The latest retail shop Palace Las Vegas for a decade. is in Atlanta at Phipps Plaza, a Hruschka said the store’s high-end shopping destination performance has been exceeding in the Buckhead district. Chopard’s expectations. “Vegas The Atlanta boutique is has definitely been hit hard by the about 1,000 square feet. Key to recession, but I think it is on its way the visual marketing of the brand For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. to a good recovery now,” he asserted. are animation towers featuring — RACHEL BROWN holographic images of the watch on display, as well as a media CHANGE OF THE GUARD: Azzaro said wall at the entrance so customers Spaces Wednesday it was parting ways can view Hublot TV for the latest with its creative director, Mathilde brand events and product news. Castello Branco, after a two-season Jean-Claude Biver, chief executive COMMERCIAL collaboration. The Paris-based house officer, said, “As Atlanta is itself a REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS added it would name a successor wonderful mix of people, cultures, Subscribe Full service shop to the trade. shortly. Castello Branco, a Franco- the old and new, it’s the perfect fit for Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Brazilian designer, had joined Azzaro Hublot and our vision of fusion.” today! from Lanvin, where she had worked — VICKI M. YOUNG 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes under creative director Alber Elbaz. Call 800.289.0273 Menswear Showrooms — WWD STAFF A BAG WITH A VU: Jason Wu has D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 for individual whipped up a getaway bag for THE COUNTESS BRIDE: For Elie the St. Regis. The Grand Tourista subscriptions Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Saab, dressing Belgian Countess Bag by Jason Wu for St. Regis Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Stephanie de Lannoy for her wedding Hotels & Resorts will be unveiled ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Saturday to Luxembourg Crown Nov. 14 at the hotel on East 55th Prince Guillaume was not an overnight Street in Manhattan. The designer occurrence — he has known the will be on hand with Paul James, bride for eight years. St. Regis’ global brand leader, The dress required 3,200 hours to show off his newest accessory of work and embroidery, and 700 inspired by today’s grand tour. hours of sewing by a team of 10 The Starwood-owned address seamstresses and 15 embroiderers. has recently made a habit of aligning De Lannoy’s wedding dress was itself with luxury names. Last embroidered with 200 transparent month it introduced the Bentley sequins, more than 80,000 different Suite, a 1,700-square-foot space transparent crystals and 50,000 small inspired by the high-end automaker. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] beads. All that finery needed more — R.F. 8 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012

BEAUTY BEAT Details Emerge on Tory’s Strategy Lagerfeld Inks Deal With Inter Parfums In Legal Tangle With Chris Burch

{Continued from page one} {Continued from page one} prestige fragrance business, which included Tory Burch has claimed the the Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Vera Wang and Chloé concept looks too similar to her names, along with Lagerfeld. own brand. The Lagerfeld contract arms Inter Parfums This was also an issue for in- with another marquee fashion brand, and a vestors who were looking to in- future business stream to help offset the end vest in Tory Burch earlier this of its collaboration with British fashion giant year, according to Wolinsky. Burberry next spring. “Tory Burch is saying it won’t As reported, Burberry exercised its option let Christopher Burch sell out his to buy out the license rights for its fragrance interest and get hundreds of mil- and beauty products. Burberry’s fragrance lions of dollars and continue to business generates approximately 50 percent compete against the company [via of Inter Parfums’ net sales. C. Wonder],” said Wolinsky, who For Lagerfeld, the deal represents a new cited unfair competition. “This lease on life in the fragrance world at a time guy ripped off Tory Burch. His when his majority owner, Apax Partners, is keen product looks like our product, to capitalize on his renown and design prowess. his stores look like our stores.” “Nothing’s more exciting than a new ven- While Wolinsky acknowledged Tor y ture, and I am sure that Inter Parfums will go Christopher Burch’s right to com- Burch in the best direction,” said Lagerfeld. pete with his client through other Benacin declined to provide sales tar- retail ventures — it’s written in should be in everybody’s interest gets but described the potential as “impor- his limited liability contract — to get this moving forward,” said tant” and stressed Inter Parfums would the lawyer reiterated the claim Rossman, who contended that position Lagerfeld in the luxury category that Burch is competing “un- Tory Burch has had a long time to alongside other names in its stable, which in- Karl fairly.” Wolinsky said Tory Burch consider the matter. clude Montblanc, Jimmy Choo, Boucheron, Lagerfeld would expound on the definition Alluding to settlement talks Lanvin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Balmain. of “unfair” in its impending an- that unraveled last month, Market sources estimate swer and counterclaims. Rossman said his client has Lagerfeld fragrances gen- Christopher Burch’s lawsuit “done a lot to appease Tory and erate wholesale volume of was filed Oct. 2 in Delaware state the company.” about 10 million euros, or Market sources estimate court. The suit alleged that Tory This included making changes $13 million at current ex- Burch and board members Glen to the appearance of C. Wonder change, with the business Lagerfeld fragrances Senk, Eduardo Holschneider, stores at the request of Tory concentrated mainly in John Hamlin, Ernesto Sepeda, Burch. One point of contention Europe. It is understood the generate wholesale Maria Asuncion Aramburuzabala has been both concepts’ lac- partners plan to pump up Larregui and Isla Coral have quered front doors — orange the volume at least fivefold. kept him from pursing other ven- for Tory Burch and green for C. Lagerfeld fragrances volume of about tures. Other allegations include Wonder — that welcome shop- currently on the market in- breach of contract and tortious pers. Burch wanted her former clude Kapsule, a collection 10 million euros, or interference with the sale pro- husband to change C. Wonder’s. of three unisex scents intro- cess and with business relation- According to Wolinsky, C. duced in 2008, and the wom- $13 million at current ships with suppliers. Wonder’s latest store at the Time en’s scent Karleidoscope, “In his complaint, Christopher Warner Center here might not introduced by Coty in 2011 Burch said he’s being hurt be- have a lacquered door, but it does and launched exclusively in exchange, with the cause the company is standing in have “look-alike sweaters piled in Sephora Europe doors. the window.” Lagerfeld, the signature business concentrated “He has not changed his three men’s scent from 1978, with Christopher stores in any significant way,” the its ring-topped cap, also re- mainly in Europe. Burch lawyer claimed. “I think in his mains on the market. SoHo store, he took out a rug.” “It was the first fragrance Rossman countered that his I ever bought myself,” en- premium Karl Lagerfeld Paris range, pro- client isn’t obliged to alter his thused Pier Paolo Righi, duced and distributed under a licensing pact stores. He only complied to “keep chief executive officer at with Italy’s Ittierre SpA. the peace. Lagerfeld. He noted that the Last month, Lagerfeld revealed plans to “When it became clear to Chris Karleidoscope multitasking designer, who is open a new concept store next February at that there was no satisfying the also the couturier at Chanel 194 Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris. The demands of Tory Burch and the and designer of ready-to- 2,150-square-foot unit is to blend his various Tory Burch company, he had to wear and furs at Fendi, would be “strongly im- fashion labels with objects such as photog- ask the court what his rights are plicated and a strong player in the raphy and design books. More here,” Rossman said. whole development of this project. units are to follow. Rossman alleged that Tory He is very passionate about this.” “We want to portray the Burch’s demands were becoming And how. Famous for pouring half whole world of Karl,” Righi “onerous and unreasonable, and a bottle of Collosol, a scented bath stressed. they were constantly changing.” milk, into his tub and caking his hair Other important launches the way of me selling my shares He also claimed that it’s with Klorane dry shampoo to keep it in the coming months in- to a potential investor. The an- unlikely that consumers are sparkling white, Lagerfeld is also clude a range of watches with swer is, we are not standing in the confused by the two retailer an aficionado of fragrances American firm Fossil, and an way,” Wolinsky said. “His conduct concepts, as even the price po- and has been known to spritz expanded range of bags and is standing in the way…he is driv- sitioning of C. Wonder and Tory himself in the middle of accessories for fall 2013. en by jealousy and animosity.” Burch are different. an interview. Recent Righi cited “love at Tory Burch’s legal counsel has “The last thing Chris wanted to favorites of Lagerfeld’s first sight” when he met requested an eight-day extension do was have a lawsuit against the include a smoky Comme with Inter Parfums to file its answer and counter- Tory Burch company. He has a lot des Garçons perfume, principals, lauding the claims. If accepted, the company of his wealth invested in it,” the and Ombre Mercure, a company’s passion and will have until Nov. 1; if denied, attorney offered. powdery scent by Terry de “entrepreneurial spirit.” they must file by Oct. 25. The reason why his client pulled ERICKSEN

Gunzburg with a striking silver- Inter Parfums dem- In addition to that request, the the trigger on the suit is linked to KYLE topped flacon. Kapsule onstrated its prowess judge will review Christopher his belief that the company “manip- A prolific sketch artist who with designer scents in Burch’s motion to expedite pro- ulated” the bidding process. uses Shu Uemura makeup reporting third-quarter ceedings. In a 136-page docu- “We don’t think bidders for to color his illustrations, sales earlier this week. THOMAS IANNACCONE ment filed Tuesday, Burch’s attor- Tory Burch were really con- Lagerfeld collaborated with The firm said revenues ney Andrew Rossman, of Quinn cerned about C. Wonder at all the Japanese brand on a limit- rose 8.6 percent to Emanuel Urquhart & Sullivan, until Tory Burch made an issue ed-edition makeup collection 118.9 million euros, has asked the court to accelerate about it,” he claimed. “I don’t retailing this holiday season. or $148.8 million at av- the case, which would essentially even think C. Wonder is a cause In an interview, Righi described erage exchange, with its get the ball rolling on his client’s for concern, and I’m not aware fragrance as “an important element Montblanc, Jimmy Choo and claims and leave Tory’s for later. of any information that the Tory to propel the [Lagerfeld] brand and Boucheron fragrance brands In order to win that motion, Burch brand has suffered in any LEXIE MORELAND; KAPSULE BY

bring it to life with the consumer.” contributing strongly to the Rossman would have to prove respect by C. Wonder.” BY BURCH IANNACCONE; CHRISTOPHER THOMAS The new fragrance deal is the gains. Respectively, their rev- imminent, irreparable injury. Christopher Burch, however, is latest development in an action- enues increased 68 percent, 45 Whichever way the judge rules, concerned that C. Wonder’s nascent packed year for the Lagerfeld percent and 57 percent in the both sides said they hope for a business is being harmed, and he is business, headlined by the launch three months ended Sept. 30. speedy case, with a possible trial suing for unspecified damages. of the masstige Karl fashion brand — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS beginning as early as February. “Chris is a reluctant plaintiff FROM JENNIFER WEIL for women and men, plus a new BY LAGERFELD PORTRAIT “It seems clear to us that it in this case,” said Rossman. BY PHOTO BURCH TORY POLS OF THE WEEK

PLUS: Berluti will The Home Stretch open a boutique at 9 Rue While some of their foreign policy ideas might be du Faubourg Saint-Honoré similar, President Obama and Mitt Romney took bringing its Paris store different paths when it came to style. Page MW7 count to four. Page MW6

October 25, 2012

PLASTIC FANTASTIC

ALEX BADIA Will.i.am, Coca-Cola Partner With Brands For Ekocycle Product FORD; STYLED BY Under AT Levi’s, MCM, RVCA join New Era and Beats by Dr. Dre on designs made from recycled soda bottles. MODEL: CHRIS G Statement byDAVID LIPKE

POP STAR WILL.I.AM is out to make recy- Today’s underwear is a marriage cling fashionable — with an assist from The between performance and style as Coca-Cola Co. and fashion and accessories cotton blended with Lycra or Modals partners like Levi’s, New Era, Rvca and MCM. and other microfibers provide a The partners are launching fashion and comfortable yet luxurious feel. In related products under an umbrella initia- addition to the big players like Jockey tive called Ekocycle, aimed at encouraging and Calvin Klein, upstart companies recycling behavior among consumers. Each of the product lines under the brand are are really pushing the envelope. made from at least 25 percent postconsumer For more on the underwear market, waste, such as recycled plastic and alumi- see pages MW4 through MW6. num bottles. “To do recycled goods isn’t something new under the sun, but they just get bur- ied under all the other products companies sell,” said Will.i.am, whose given name is William James Anderson, in an interview Wednesday. “This idea is about how you can Jockey’s cotton and have a brand and marketing around sustain- spandex trunks and ability. Each product helps sustain because Hanes’ cotton tank top. it’s part of a whole slew of other programs. It’s a family of sustainability.” New Era caps and Beats by Dr. Dre head- phones were the first products unveiled in July as part of the Ekocycle initiative. On Wednesday, Ekocycle — whose first four letters are “Coke” spelled backwards — added Levi’s jeans, MCM accessories, Rvca streetwear and Case-Mate phone covers to its roster of partners. Ekocycle is a joint venture between Will.i.am and Coca-Cola. Brands pay a tra- ditional licensing fee to use the Ekocycle marks. Royalties are used to operate and promote Ekocycle as well as contribute to- wards nongovernmental organizations that promote recycling and community improve- ments. Coca-Cola has committed to donating at least $1 million over the next five years towards the recycling and community orga- nizations, separate from its company-wide charitable commitments of 1 percent of all operating profit made through The Coca- Cola Foundation. “This is a way to help engage teens in a movement that we believe in because we have an ambition to be zero waste,” said Bea Perez, vice president and chief sustainabil- ity officer at The Coca-Cola Co. “We want to turn waste into something valuable and good and make it cool — and then get teens to say, ‘I’m going to buy a Coke because I know Coke is going to turn this into Beats.’” A number of apparel makers already use recycled consumer waste in their de- signs, but the Ekocycle initiative brings Will.i.am’s star power and Coca-Cola’s mar- keting muscle to the efforts. Patagonia, for example, has sold fleece product fashioned from recycled soda bottles since 1993. Nike makes soccer jerseys and shorts from recy- PHOTO BY KRISTIINA WILSON cled plastic bottles as well, estimating that it {Continued on page MW7} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 Men’s Week Alexander McQueen Lands on Savile Row by JULIA NEEL the memorial for the late designer at St. Paul’s LONDON — Alexander Cathedral following his McQueen has planted suicide in 2010. its flag on Savile Row On plaster panels, with the opening of its which are hung like art- first stand-alone men’s work as opposed to being wear store at number set into walls, there are 9, down the street from birds’ wings, shells and Gieves & Hawkes. foxgloves — the British The 2,200-square-foot wildflower. Cabinet legs store was designed by look like horns or claws, David Collins in collab- and there are brass oration with McQueen’s worms carved into brass creative director Sarah door handles. A long Burton. The two have brass vertebraelike rail been working together stretches through the FOR MORE on a new retail concept The Collins trademarks — in- center of the shop, sus- IMAGES, SEE for both men’s and women’s wear cluding marble, glass and brass pended over a red carpet, to give and for the McQ collection. — are all there, and the McQueen the clothes the impression of being WWD.com/ “We are offering a high-end DNA is unmistakable. The design on military parade. At the back, retail-news. ready-to-wear collection as well as was inspired by nature, art and the there is a glass-encased exhibition

developing our in-house bespoke British military, and there are cus- space that will feature regularly OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN PHOTOS COURTESY service which pertains to the rules tom details throughout. changing artworks curated by the of Savile Row. This ultimately will Greeting shoppers is a David London gallerist Sadie Coles. First night to mark McQueen’s Savile and Gieves & Hawkes. This store is ensure that we will carry on the Bailey portrait of a tartan-kilted up is a Sarah Lucas depiction of Row debut. the brand’s first dedicated men’s tradition of Savile Row tailors,” McQueen leaping with jubila- the dancer Michael Clark. McQueen began his career as an wear unit in Europe, although there said Jonathan Akeroyd, the com- tion. It is the same one that ap- The store opened Monday, and apprentice on The Row, in the cut- is already one on Shanghai. It real- pany’s chief executive officer. peared on the order of service at there is a party planned for to- ting rooms of Anderson & Sheppard izes McQueen’s dream of having a store in the traditional epicenter of British tailoring. “Lee McQueen was famously an apprentice of Savile Row so [the neighbors] have been very welcom- ing to our presence. We have col- laborated with Huntsman, so there has been an ongoing relationship with the establishment on Savile Row,” Akeroyd said. McQueen has been working with the Savile Row tailor on the bespoke Huntsman at Alexander McQueen Savile Row capsule col- lection. The collection teams the McQueen silhouette and block with Huntsman’s expertise, and is avail- able in a choice of fabric weights and designs. Akeroyd declined to offer first- year sales projections but said the “men’s wear business is ex- Views of the new Alexander McQueen ceeding expectations, especially men’s store on Savile Row in London. in the McQueen signature styles across categories.” Club Monaco Opens First Men’s-Only Store AMI Gets New Partner by ELLEN SHENG by JOELLE DIDERICH

HONG KONG — Club Monaco has PARIS — Mode et Finance, a French venture capital firm opened its first stand-alone men’s managed by CDC Entreprises, has taken a minority stake store here. in AMI Paris, the holding company for French men’s wear Called “The Men’s Shop,” the store brand AMI Alexandre Mattiussi. is tucked away on a small street in Hong Mode et Finance specializes in long-term investments Kong’s Wanchai district. “We wanted in small- and medium-size companies in the fashion and to build out the favorite elements of luxury sectors that are profitable, generate revenues of at our own closets,” said Aaron Levine, least 500,000 euros, or $650,000 at current exchange, and vice president of men’s design at Club show strong potential for international growth. Monaco, who was in Hong Kong for the Brands that have benefited from the company’s fi- official launch. “Men like their own shop- nancial investment in the past include Nicolas Andreas ping environment. This is one way to Taralis, Bouchra Jarrar, Maison Martin Margiela, A . F. cater to them with an edited assortment.” Vandevorst, Anne Valérie Hash and Polux. Ann Watson, Club Monaco’s vice pres- The investment will allow AMI, launched in 2010, to ident of marketing and communications, speed its commercial development. Mattiussi has re- who was also in Hong Kong, described ceived critical plaudits for his ready-to-wear and acces- the store as “the ultimate men’s closet.” sories, based on wearable staples and carried by stores The shop had its grand-opening including Barneys New York, Printemps, Lane Crawford party last week, transforming one cor- Aaron Levine in front of the and 10 Corso Como. ner of Wanchai into New York with new Hong Kong unit. “Bolstered by its commercial success, AMI would like a real New York City taxi, plus a taco to capitalize on the dynamism of the brand to develop its stand. Two of The Men’s Shop’s local distribution network,” Mode et Finance stated. “tastemakers” were in attendance: Jun Monaco, and apparel and accessories collection in Canada and the U.S., we It is understood AMI is zeroing in on a space in the trendy Kung, a famous local drummer and from Made in the USA, Club Monaco’s wanted Hong Kong to be one of the first Marais district of Paris to open a freestanding boutique. musician, as well as JJ Acuna, a Hong limited-edition men’s collection, as overseas markets to have access to this Mattiussi was born and raised in Normandy, France Kong architect and lifestyle blogger. well as specially designed items from as well, with their own unique envi- and moved to Paris to attend design school at Duperré. The Men’s Shop is opening in two third-party partnerships. ronment to truly experience the Club At 21, he secured a position at Dior Homme as an assis- phases. A 400-square-foot portion About one-third of the items in the Monaco men’s lifestyle,” said chief ex- tant on the 30 Montaigne line of classic men’s pieces. He opened in September and will expand store are third-party items or collabo- ecutive officer John Mehas. later launched his own collection of shirts before tak- by 200 square feet in late November. rations, particularly accessories. The Club Monaco, which is owned by ing a position at Givenchy from 2004 to 2008 as an assis- The store is part of a larger plan to roll store carries Rancourt & Co. shoes, Ralph Lauren Corp., is no stranger to tant designer for men’s wear, working for a time under out the brand’s new concept throughout jackets from Aether, Goruck backpacks, Hong Kong, having opened its first store Riccardo Tisci. China and Asia. The lease is for approx- and vintage Rolex, Omega, and Tag in the city seven years ago. The new He then worked for two seasons as a senior men’s de- imately one year. Heuer watches from Hodinkee. men’s store concept is targeting primari- signer for Marc Jacobs, traveling between New York and The new concept store includes an “With success in launching our new ly Hong Kong locals, as well as some ex- Europe, before leaving to start AMI Alexandre Mattiussi edited selection of apparel from Club men’s concept and Made in the USA pats and Mainland Chinese customers. with a group of about 10 individual investors. ANATO Y OF A ANFUL AN AND HIS VERY SPECIAL GUE ST

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N AND MAD PROJECTS IND LLC, 15 WEST 34TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10001 FOR A NFUL Y PECIAL GUESTS TEL: 212-714-9300 / [email protected] THEIR VER MW4 WWD thursday, october 25, 2012 Men’s Week Second Skin With the growing consumer demand for undergarments featuring optimal performance fabrics, a luxe feel and true fit, new premium underwear companies and existing ones are offering sleek basic cuts with an emphasis on ergonomic construction designed to contour to the body without compromising style. — Alex BAdiA

photos by kristiina wilson

perry Ellis’ polyester and spandex trunks.

Emporio armani’s cotton, boss’ cotton and Donn Mason’s Modal, Modal and spandex trunks. spandex trunks. cotton and spandex trunks and Calvin klein Underwear’s cotton tank top.

w25b004(5)a;5.indd 1 10/24/12 5:29 PM 10242012173119 Men’s Week WWD thursday, october 25, 2012 MW5

naked’s cotton and spandex Diesel’s cotton and trunks and Calvin klein Under- spandex briefs. wear’s cotton tank top.

Calvin klein Underwear’s nylon and elastane trunk. campuzano luis assistant: aas; fashion f llis e

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Katie ford; grooming by model: chris g at

w25b004(5)a;5.indd 2 10/24/12 5:30 PM 10242012173119 MW6 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 Men’s Week New Brands Shake Up the Underwear Market byKARYN MONGET “Never be photographed with this be launching a line of Turkish a name on the elastic waistband. We cre- guy,” Tawil said of the former teen pima cotton at Nordstrom ate something that can be washed to death A NEW BREED of fashion brands is crop- heartthrob who models the under- for holiday.…We and still look good. In early November, we’ll ping up in the $672 million men’s under- wear in the brand’s ads, and cater to the gradu- launch a line of 360-degree stretch poly-span- wear market that could mark a sea change who portrayed Olympic ate of Calvin Klein dex called Dude Stripe, and in January we’ll in the business. diver Greg Louganis in a Underwear, and launch what I call the lightest cotton stretch Much in the same way premium denim TV movie and was a con- who is attracted collection that weighs 3 to 4 ounces [per took off in the U.S. in the Nineties with testant on “Dancing With to the environ- item], called Cool Cotton by Tommy John,” names like True Religion and Seven For All the Stars.” mental and said Patterson. “We try to have some type of Mankind, a number of up-and-coming under- Rated M launched on- humanitarian built-in margin because we’re a replenish- wear brands have their sights set on pushing line with Freshpair.com aspects of the ment business. When you look at brands like out the big-name players in one specific area: last December and at brand. He’s not Calvin Klein Underwear and 2(x)ist, they the premium-price tier. Bloomingdale’s in February. someone who launch two lines a year. We launch one line a The highly competitive men’s under- The collection of premium wants to pa- year and we don’t discount. wear sector is dominated by major designer underwear, T-shirts and rade around in “Eighty percent of our target customers labels such as Calvin Klein Underwear, bodywear includes three his underwear. are 25 to 55 years old, 62 percent of whom are Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis lines: Elementary, Atelier We like to think ages 35 to 50,” he added. and heritage brands like Jockey, Hanes and and Play. Elementary is of ourselves as Tommy John T-shirts retail from $33 to Fruit of the Loom. Over the past decade, sev- made from 54 percent cot- affordable lux- $38; bottoms are $25 to $34. eral trendy labels including 2(x)ist, Papi and ton, 36 percent polyester ury, the middle Björn Borg have entered the field with fash- and 10 percent spandex, ground of luxury ■ Mack Weldon: Based on a heritage brand of ion colors and prints as well as an abundance and features an engi- underwear.” the 1900s called Weldon, the Mack Weldon of logo motifs. neered “M” fly on boxers Primus identified label was cofounded by Michael Isaacman The newbies, who hail from the East and and briefs. All products his target customer and Brian Berger. West Coasts as well as Canada and Europe, are sold in two-packs B-Side by as 25 to 45 years old, “This whole brand is a product of my per- include Tommy John, Naked, Bread & and range in price Rated M. “probably with a col- sonal experience. I come from a digital back- Boxers, The White Briefs, Donn Mason, The from $26.50 for briefs lege degree and an ac- ground and it was the only product that frus- Elder Statesman, Mack Weldon and Sunspel. to $34.50 for crewnecks tive sex life.” trated me — going to stores and malls, sifting There’s even a celebrity brand, Rated M and V-necks. Naked underwear through product, seeing tons of waste associ- Atelier, the higher-priced offering from actor The higher-priced retails from $32 to $68, ated with packaging.…I never purchased the and “Extra” host Mario Lopez. Atelier collection is available while T-shirts are priced product and ended up with tattered items What differentiates the new collections at Nordstrom and offers a blend $38 to $48. that my wife threw out,” said Berger. “What from the competition is the focus on upscale of 55 percent cotton, 37 percent sets us apart is, we are a product-centric fabrics teamed with performance features, Modal and 8 percent spandex. The ■ Bread & Boxers: The brand that mixes comfort with performance, high-tech styling and creative packaging. line features an adjustable shirt hem, an en- brand was founded in 2009 by Alexander and we focus on convenience for the custom- A number of small-to-midsize companies gineered “M” fly and a conversational waist- Palmgren, chief executive officer, and cre- er with the ease of our Web site experience, are also taking a good citizen approach and band. Retail prices for the single packs in- ative director Henrik Lindahl. which we think is the most convenient way to are making consumers aware via point-of-sale clude briefs for $18 and crewnecks or V-necks “We really started from our own needs. buy underwear. What we like about this cat- materials and Web sites that they source and for $29.50. We could not find any basics that we really egory is underwear is replenishable goods produce with eco-friendly fabrics and mills. Play is designed for guys to wear while liked; all T-shirts were too short and most un- and the likelihood of customer satisfaction is While fashion continues working out and offers an anti- derwear was tagged with logos. The few good very high.” to be a strong classification, bacterial combination of mesh ones we found were always too expensive.… Mack Weldon underwear retails from $19 industry executives say and single-knit jersey, 95 per- Getting great underwear should be as simple to $24; tops are $28 to $32. there is a growing demand cent polyester and 5 percent as picking up the morning bread. We believe for premium underwear spandex, with flat-lock stitch- it should be easy to find good basics at a good ■ The White Briefs: The three-year-old brand that addresses the middle ing for comfort and high-tech price. The customer for B&B is someone who was created by Peter Simonsson, a former ground of luxury, bridg- silicone reflective printing. appreciates comfort, great fit, and attention creative director for Björn Borg underwear ing the gap between a This spring, the company to detail in addition to classic, clean style. and apparel. basic commodity and a will offer a new line, B-Side, It’s someone who doesn’t need the clothing “I felt the time to create something really high-end designer label. The which will launch at Freshpair. to speak for him, because he’s comfortable in honest and transparent was right, underwear aspirational look is classic and com. Named for the B side of a record, his own skin. Think of the beauty of a plain that was environmentally correct and made clean in high-quality fabrics such as Mack the line is edgier and offers a frayed edge white T-shirt and its likeness to a blank can- with board-certified manufacturers in Estonia 100 percent pima cotton and Italian Weldon below the waistband. “It’s like you turned vas,” said Lindahl. and Lithuania. My target customer is some- and Japanese microfiber blends with your underwear inside out,” said Daniel “We are the plain alternative to the elabo- one who really knows what’s going on in the Lycra spandex. Tawil, Mike’s son and vice president of sales. rate designs. Unadorned with logos or embel- world, around 20 to 40 years old, who is inter- Executives describe the target consumer The packaging for Rated M is playful and lishments of any kind, B&B is as simple as ested in a product that doesn’t shout out,” ex- as a metropolitan male who wants attain- sexy, with the tag line, “For Manful Men and life’s most basic daily items. Packaging is also plained Simonsson. “When I started, retailers able luxury without paying top dollar for un- Their Very Special Guests,” and includes the like no other brand; the clean white paper were asking what’s new [in color and prints], derwear by luxury labels such as Hanro or line’s logo, an upside-down M that looks like bag reflects the simple nature of the brand,” and now I see so many other brands that are Zimmerli, which can retail from $40 to $120 a crown. “It can be for man, magical, macho, explained Palmgren. “Going forward we will doing the same thing I’m doing.” or more. Prices in the sought-after premium Mario, whatever you want,” said Lopez. “It’s also focus more on e-commerce and will be Underwear by The White Briefs retails range average in the low $20 to the high $40. cheeky but fun.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI launching a new online store in November. between $39 and $49, while T-shirts are $69 Megabrands have been addressing this B&B is also looking into new sales channels to $99. consumer base for the past few years with key ■ Naked: Created by Vancouver native such as the successful mini bar concept with items, but a number of emerging underwear Joel Primus in 2009, the brand made its underwear at hotels.…We are also launching a ■ Donn Mason: The brand was created in 2003 and T-shirt firms see an opportunity and are debut on the Canadian TV series “Dragon’s women’s collection in Europe this Christmas.” by Jared Brandt and revamped in 2010 to dedicating full collections to the premium Den” and was launched at retail in 2010 at Bread & Butter boxers retail for $18, have a gentleman-inspired look. classification. Holt Renfrew. The brand went public in while T-shirts are priced $28 and tank tops “A lot of men are watching TV shows like Here, a chat with the creators of several September and signed on entrepreneur sell for $24. ‘Mad Men’ and ‘Boardwalk Empire,’ and cutting-edge brands. Daymond John of ABC’s “Shark Tank” as men are starting to care about how they look brand adviser this month. ■ Tommy John: Created in 2008 by Tom again,” said Brandt. “What we are doing is ■ Rated M: Mike Tawil has been in the un- “We use Italian MicroModal and work Patterson, the brand’s launch featured The completely different from the fashion house derwear business for more than two decades with factories that have Bluesign [eco- Second Skin Collection, a line of T-shirts brands — we’re using the same or better and knows his way around. The head of Mad friendly] verification. The idea is the fabric and underwear rendered in antipilling quality fabrics like Modal spandex knits and Projects Industries LLC was the cocreator of makes you feel good, as if you’re not wear- MicroModal. The key item is a form-fitting un- our product is made in the USA. Name one 2(x)ist, a brand he sold in 2010. Fast forward ing anything at all,” said Primus, noting that dershirt designed to stay tucked in, so it won’t [mega] underwear brand that does that?” to 2011, when Tawil launched Rated M, a line a portion of sales goes to the Project World look loose underneath dress shirts. Underwear by Donn Mason is priced $24 of underwear from actor Mario Lopez. Citizen Society, a charity he founded. “We’ll “Tommy John is not just a brand with to $32.

Company) distinction from the French tional exposure that attracts “connoisseurs Berluti Adding to Paris Store Count Ministry of the Economy, Industry and from all over the world.” Employment. Antoine Arnault, chief executive offi- by MILES SOCHA by Façonnable, and a stone’s throw from the The bootmaker acquisition echoes the cer of Berluti, said the Faubourg opening Paris flagships of Lanvin and Hermès. LVMH brand’s purchase last June of French “marks an important milestone in the de- PARIS — Expanding its presence in the Also on Wednesday, Berluti, owned by men’s firm Arnys with the intention of ap- velopment of our brand and will help fur- French capital, Berluti said it would open LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said plying its expertise in made-to-measure ther enhance its visibility and the excite- a boutique at 9 Rue du Faubourg Saint- it had acquired the elite bootmaking atelier suits — along with a prime retail site at 14 ment around the work we are doing. It is Honoré, ultimately bringing its Paris store of Anthony Delos to create its made-to-mea- Rue de Sèvres — to support Berluti’s ex- also a return to the roots of our brand, as count to four. sure shoes. Last year, Delos, 34, won a pres- pansion drive and ambitions as a luxury the new store is only a few steps from the Spread over three floors and some 5,400 tigious award known as Meilleurs Ouvriers lifestyle label for men. Rue du Mont-Thabor where Torello Berluti square feet, the unit is slated to open in de France, for craft abilities, sponsored by That Left Bank unit is slated to open opened a store in 1928.” the second half of 2013 and feature a dedi- the French Ministry of Labour. in mid-2013, according to a spokeswom- Façonnable said it would vacate the cated area for bespoke shoes, as well as its Based in Les Rosiers-sur-Loire, which an. The brand also operates boutiques Faubourg site in December and concentrate new lines of ready-to-wear, leather goods is southwest of Paris, the atelier employs on Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue on its two other Paris stores while it consid- and accessories. five people and received the Entreprise Marbeuf. She characterized the Faubourg ers “a new boutique location in the heart of It takes over a location currently occupied du Patrimoine Vivant (or Living Heritage as a “different area” with more interna- the Paris capital.” Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 MW7 Fashion Brands Sign On to Will.i.am’s Ekocycle Campaign

{Continued from MW1} and a 9Fifty Strapback model. Each is made Mike Gomez, design director at has used 115 million recycled plastic bottles from 42 percent recycled content and retail Rvca. “The upcharge is minimal, since 2010. for $30 to $45. and with initiatives like this one “I’m motivated by the goal to redefine in New Era worked with Coca-Cola to iden- by Ekocycle, interest and demand popular culture the purpose and participa- tify a fabric supplier that uses recycled should be increased, thereby cre- tion of the consumer and plastic bottles to produce the Ekocycle de- ating incentive for greater sourc- companies. Right now, signs. This is the first time ing options and affordability going there’s a disconnect. If New Era has incorporated forward. We hope more brands take I’m a consumer and I pur- recycled materials into its advantage of this technology wheth- chase a product, someone product line. er it be part of Ekocycle or an inde- makes a profit and that’s “We’ve considered pendent program.” it. I value the product but it before but thought “MCM takes pride and responsi-

I don’t value the commu- this was the right time, bility in being part of an imperative nity. That’s not right and the right place and the social movement with Coca-Cola and it’s weird,” said Will.i.am. right partner to go down Will.i.am to create a synergy effect “In actuality it should be, that path,” said Stuart for a better future,” said Sung Joo ‘I’m a consumer and this is Domanowski, senior man- Kim, chairperson and chief vision- my community and I sup- ager of licensed and char- ary officer of South Korea-based port this product and brand acter product at Buffalo- MCM. Details on the MCM Ekocycle because they make my com- based New Era Cap Co. Inc. product are not yet available. munity better.’” Pat Tenore, founder and The Beats by Dr. Dre Ekocycle The Levi’s Ekocycle de- president of Rvca, has known headphones, available on e- sign is a limited-edition men’s Will.i.am since high school. commerce sites now, contain 31 501 jean that will be avail- “After we got going on the percent recycled materials and able in April at Levi’s stores Ekocycle-Rvca·· collabora- retail for $349.95. The Case-Mate and on levi.com. It will be tion, the first thing out of my Ekocycle smartphone covers, avail- co-branded within the larger mouth was ‘Consciousness is able now at Best Buy, are made Levi’s Waste

Waste

Pols of THE WEEK PRESIDENT OBAMA:·· B+ MITT ROMNEY: B

 After all the time With the election He’s obviously in Perfectly fitted outside, he has a healthy love with the club He should shirt, very close to glow, but he needs to be less than two stripe. It’s still consider collagen the body. careful and use SPF 50. weeks away, the moisturizer. elitist, but very chic His expression and works well with clock is ticking wrinkles are the thicker stripe of the shirt. Good play We’re all about men getting bigger. An interesting, and the heat is on on proportion. accessorizing, but elegant choice. what’s up with the the candidates. He’s definitely bracelet with the going for a style strange symbols? It Following moment instead of gives him a cooler, a power moment. younger look and MONSIVAIS MARTINEZ PHOTO/PABLO AP Monday’s final Perfect length In the past, rolling up the and it’s undone to he’s worn more sleeves would help. debate, they hit the perfection. The single pleat is form-fitting trail, with Romney sophisticated but silhouettes, but mature. It works he’s back to the continuing with very well with the boxy fit. proportions of his He continues to the casual look and The pants are a bit body. The heavy wear the mom jeans. too long and he crease elongates Not sure if we’re Obama opting for should definitely Just when we thought DUNAND/AFP/GETTY BY OBAMA IMAGES; him and makes him just getting used visit a shoe shiner, we were making a more dressed-up look polished. to them but they’re they’re a bit dirty. progress, he’s back to fine. They’re the

the granddad shoe. EMMANUEL appearance. right shade and the right cut. BY PHOTO ROMNEY YEARinfAshion ALL OF THE STYLE, SCANDAL, CELEBRITY AND BUSINESS OF 2012. PLUS EDITORS REVEAL THE WWD NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR.

ISSUE DATE: DEC. 10 CLOSE DATE: NOV. 26 For more infomation contact Pamela Firestone at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi[email protected]