RECYCLING CHIC MEMORIES WILL.I.AM TEAMS UP WITH OF MARVIN COCA-COLA IN A SERIES FASHION INDUSTRY OF FASHION EXECUTIVES RECALL THE COLLABORATIONS LIFE OF MARVIN TRAUB. TO PUSH RECYCLING. PAGE 3 PAGE MW1 WWDTHURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 BATTLE OF THE BURCHES Tor y Sets Strategy For Suit vs. Chris Wolinsky of Wachtell, Lipton, Rosen By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD & Katz said he plans on entering counterclaims that will include un- TORY BURCH is punching back. fair competition, breach of fi duciary Three weeks after Christopher duty, breach of contract and a viola- Burch fi led a lawsuit claiming his tion of intellectual property. ex-wife thwarted his attempts to The allegations relate to sell his stake in her fashion com- Christopher Burch’s involvement pany, Tory Burch, through her law- in Tory Burch LLC and his at- yer, shed some light on her legal tempts to sell his stake. The en- strategy going forward. The details trepreneur, who helped launch were revealed as the two sides the women’s fashion brand when continue to spar — this time over he was married to Burch, is one of the timing by when Tory Burch two of the company’s largest share- has to fi le a response to her former holders, along with his former husband’s suit. wife. Both Burches each own 28.3 Tory Burch on Wednesday fi led percent of the shares of the com- a motion for an extension of the pany, which, according to reports, deadline by which a response must is valued at $2 billion. be fi led, while Christopher Burch There’s also the issue of C. countered with a motion of his own, Wonder, Christopher Burch’s low- seeking an expedited decision. er-priced retail venture. Since When Tory Burch does file C. Wonder launched last year, her response, her attorney Marc SEE PAGE 8 Karl’s New Beauty Deal business to match Lagerfeld’s tow- By MILES SOCHA ering fashion reputation and inter- national renown. PARIS — Seizing on the flurry of “He is one of the most talented business initiatives around Karl designers in the world, if not the Lagerfeld — and his long-stand- most talented, which makes it a SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS ing passion for perfume — Inter huge opportunity to develop fra- Parfums SA has signed on as the grance under his name,” the ex- designer’s new fragrance licensee, ecutive told WWD. WWD has learned. Inter Parfums inked a 20-year “It’s our job now to work to re- contract with Karl Lagerfeld B.V., L.A. veal this important potential,” and expects to introduce its fi rst fra- said Philippe Benacin, chairman grance in late 2014, Benacin noted. and chief executive offi cer of Inter The French firm takes over Parfums SA, the French subsidiary following the expiration of a per- of Inter Parfums Inc. fume pact with Coty B.V., which in The executive said he would 2005 acquired Unilever’s global “start from scratch” to build a SEE PAGE 8 Twinkle Twins They’re creepy and they’re kooky…and very appealing. Anything goes at Los Angeles Fashion Week, as Bohemian Society’s pair of diaphanous silk parachute numbers proved that the dark side can also be light, both fi guratively and literally. And in a nod to Katy Perry’s Met gala gown, designer Victor Wilde added a dramatic LED touch to the looks. For more from the Los Angeles collections, see pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY AMY GRAVES 2 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012 Conservative Planning Helped Jones’ Q3 THE BRIEFING BOX cent uptick to $89.7 million for that’s also the segment that has IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG the international retail opera- held up well, particularly in tion. There were 100 fewer Jones Western Europe, despite what NEW YORK — Despite one-time U.S. stores in operation in the has been a difficult retail back- charges that hurt the bottom current quarter·· compared with drop. The company’s business in line, The Jones Group Inc. had last year. Asia is still relatively small com- a good third quarter as conser- In a conference call to Wall pared with that in Europe. vative inventory planning and Street analysts, Wesley R. Card, Stuart Weitzman was a top operating margin improvement chief executive officer, said, “I’m performer in the quarter with boosted results. very pleased to note that our strong worldwide sales and good Net income for the period at- operating margin improved to international comps, said Card. tributable to Jones sharehold- 7.1 percent this quarter, which Its other top footwear and acces- ers for the three months ended exceeds the 6.7 percent we re- sories performer is Kurt Geiger, Sept. 29 dropped 57.6 percent to corded last year in 2011....Our which is London-centric and geo- $17.4 million, or 22 cents a dilut- approach to planning in the cur- graphically where Card noted ed share, from $41 million, or 49 rent economic and political en- that the luxury consumer has cents, a year ago. Excluding one- vironment is paying dividends. started to spend again. Maryna Linchuk EICHNER time charges and other adjust- and Elena STEVE ments related to foreign curren- Perminova at the BY cies, the company said adjusted H&M party. per-share profits were 57 cents Our approach to planning in the PHOTO versus 48 cents last year. That Tory Burch shed some light on her legal strategy going bested Wall Street’s adjusted ex- current economic and political forward in battle with ex-husband Christopher Burch over his pectations by 25 cents. attempts to sell his stake in her fashion company. PAGE 1 Revenues were essentially flat, down 0.8 percent to $1.03 environment is paying dividends. Karl Lagerfeld has signed a new fragrance license with billion from $1.04 billion, which — WESLEY R. CARD, THE JONES GROUP INC. Inter Parfums SA, following the expiration of his old deal with included a 0.5 percent dip in Coty Inc. PAGE 1 net sales to $1.02 billion from $1.03 billion. Hundreds of apparel industry executives and designers By business segment, the turned out at a memorial service Wednesday at New York best-performing category in the And we continue to plan conser- In Asia, Card noted that in the City Center to pay homage to Marvin Traub. PAGE 3 quarter was domestic wholesale vatively as we proceed through better zone, brands such as Nine footwear and accessories, which 2012 into 2013.” West have continued to see some Dior on Thursday raised the curtains — quite literally — on a climbed 9.7 percent to $289.9 mil- In a telephone interview, slowdown in sales, but empha- completely renovated Rodeo Drive flagship. PAGE 6 lion. Domestic wholesale jeans- Card said the company’s jeans- sized that “business is still good.” wear was second, at an 8.1 per- wear has been a “phenomenal Card said the predictions Four women were honored Wednesday by the International cent gain to $202.3 million. business.” He attributed the for holiday indicate an expec- Women’s Media Foundation, but only three of the journalists In contrast, domestic whole- performance to the design team tation that it will be a “robust were able to attend the event. PAGE 6 sale sportswear was the worst- for being ahead of the competi- Christmas season.” The ceo performing category, with tion with product offerings, from noted the consumer has been Helmut Lang, which has art in its DNA, is teaming up with sales dropping 14.4 percent to both a color and fabrication resilient so far this·· year, adding Grey Area, the online store and gallery by Kyle DeWoody and $208.7 million, due in part to a standpoint. that Thanksgiving will be early Manish Vora, for holiday. PAGE 7 planned reduction in shipments Jeanswear for holiday has and the extra week will be a of Jones New York product and included more patterns and boost to holiday shopping. Will.i.am is out to make recycling fashionable — with an the change in the retail strat- prints on colors. For spring, Richard Dickson, president assist from The Coca-Cola Co. and apparel and accessories egy at J.C. Penney. International Card expects color to remain a and chief executive officer of partners like Levi’s, New Era, Rvca and MCM. PAGE MW1 wholesale sales fell 5.3 percent dominant theme and that ani- branded business at Jones, said, to $94.3 million. mal prints on colored denim the company has more gift-giv- Alexander McQueen has opened its first stand-alone For the retail businesses, the will likely be strong sellers, as ing programs for holiday this men’s wear store on London’s Savile Row. PAGE MW2 domestic retail segment — which well as anything printed that is year, coordinating with destina- includes Jones’ U.S. ready-to- viewed as different. tion products and key items that Club Monaco has opened its first stand-alone men’s store wear outlets and its e-commerce About 21 percent of the firm’s are part of the specific initia- in Hong Kong’s Wanchai district. PAGE MW2 sites — declined 6.7 percent to business is international, and tives for each brand under the $140 million, offset by a 5.2 per- growing. According to Card, Jones portfolio. Mode et Finance has taken a minority stake in AMI Paris, the holding company for French men’s wear brand AMI Alexandre Mattiussi. PAGE MW2 A new breed of fashion brands is cropping up in the $672 Nike: One Brand Sold; One to Go million men’s underwear market that could mark a sea change in the business.