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The Best of Barcelona Unlike 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 1 1 The Best of Barcelona Unlike many monumental European cities, the Catalan capital’s charm lies in a sum of many small parts. You could fall in love with the city over an encounter with the mélange of street performers along the famous boulevard Les Ramblas or at your first close encounter with a fanciful work of the master architect Antoni Gaudí. It could be the fact that fine city beaches, splendid Gothic palaces, elegant green parkland, cutting edge cafes, and sophisticated shopping are all within arm’s length in this compact metropolis and its inherent easygoing nature means that as much time can be spent on chilling as cultural pursuits. It could be the fact that Barcelona (and Catalonia) are truly distinct from the rest of Spain and therefore many pre-conceptions of what it will be like give way to the discovery of a lan- guage, landscape, and people you may have known little about. Over the centuries the Catalan people have clung fiercely to their culture, which General Francisco Franco systematically and often brutally tried to eradi- cate. Catalonia endured, becoming an autonomous region of Spain in which Catalan culture and language flourishes. Barcelona, the region’s lodestar, has truly come into its own. In 2003 nearly four million visitors came to the city, many on charter flights from Northern Europe. The explosion of low-cost, Internet air- lines, plus the good value at hotels and restaurants compared to other European cities, has made Barcelona the European weekender capital. Many come to party, some to soak up the unbeatable Mediterranean climate and most find the time to see a few of its outstanding cultural and architectural offerings. The city’s most powerful monuments open a window onto its history: the intricately carved edifices of the Barri Gòtic, the most intact Gothic Quarter in Europe; the florid, curvilinear modernisme (Catalan Art Nouveau), the seminal works of Picasso and Miró, plus daring new projects from national and interna- tional names of the ilk of Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel, and Toyo Ito, Barcelona is a crucial incubator for 20th-century art and architecture. Gastronomy is another regional plus; led by Ferran Adrià, a chef whom Time listed as one of the 100 most influential people in the world today, “New Catalan Cuisine” has even been hailed by the French as the next great culinary wave. In 2004 six restau- rants in the region received the coveted Michelin star. BarcelonaCOPYRIGHTED is on the doorstep of some of Europe’s MATERIAL great playgrounds and vaca- tion retreats. The Balearic Islands lie to the east, the Costa Brava to the north, the monastery at Montserrat to the west, and to the south, the Roman city of Tarragona, and the playground resort of Sitges. A revitalized Barcelona welcomed thousands of visitors to the 1992 Summer Olympic Games, but the action didn’t end when the last medal was handed out. With a culturally savvy local government, the city has become a model for intelli- gent development. On any weekend, as locals enjoy a new park or promenade, an outdoor concert or fiesta, it is clear that this proud population has an enduring love 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BARCELONA affair with their city. Of course the downside of all this progress is that the sound of the jackhammer is never far off. But the Barcelonese believe that while the past must be respected, the future is to be embraced. 1 Frommer’s Favorite Barcelona Experiences • A Stroll along the Ramblas: and croissant and watch the day’s Barcelona’s most famous prom- deliveries coming in. See p. 192. enade pulses with life. The array of • Barhopping in the Barri Gòtic: living statues, street musicians, Whether it’s the iconic, smoke performers, hustlers, and eccentrics filled tapas bar, an Irish pub fre- ensure there is never a dull quented by expats, or a cocktail moment by the time you reach the lounge filled with minimalist fur- end of your kilometer-long stroll. niture and minimally clad patrons, See p. 56. Barcelona’s Old City is a watering- • A Drink at Sunset on the Beach: hole mecca, bar none. One of the The closest thing to an Ibizan best (at time of print, Barcelona’s experience on the mainland, bar scene is famously fickle) is Barcelona’s city beaches are dotted Ginger, a comfy, classy tapas and with chiringuitos (beach bars) and wine bar with the feel of a private the Mediterranean provides a per- club. See p. 207. fect backdrop for that end-of-day • Sundays on Montjuïc: The drink, often accompanied by the mountain of Montjuïc is the first music of an in-house DJ. See sight that greets visitors arriving at p. 211. the port. Behind its rocky seaside • Exploring the El Born Neigh- face are acres of pine-dotted park- borhood: This port-side pocket of land that cyclists, joggers, and Barcelona was once one of its strollers make a beeline for on the seediest; now the “in” crowds con- weekend; a tranquil contrast to verge on its narrow, tangle of the hustle of the city below and streets by day to check out the lat- some welcome breathing room. est in cutting edge fashion and See p. 161. design and by night for the • A Trip to Tibidabo on the plethora of bars and restaurants Tramvía Blau: The summit of the churning out the ultimate in New highest point on the city’s hilly Catalan cuisine. See p. 58. backdrop can be reached by a • A Concert at the Palau de la “blue tram,” built as a people car- Música Catalana: This master- rier to the amusement park on the piece of modernista (Art Nouveau) mountain’s peak. For most, the architecture must be one of the fun starts here, as the century-old most lavish concert halls in the tram rattles its way up the moun- world. All strains of classical and tainside and reveals breathtaking jazz are played, but even the most views of the city below. See p. 63. finicky music lover will be moved • Dining at Els Quatre Gats: The by the Palau’s onslaught of decora- original was the preferred hang tive detail. See p. 202. out of a young Picasso and his • Breakfast at the Boqueria: There Bohemian contemporaries and are about a dozen bars and restau- acted as a fraternity house for late rants in the city’s main food market. 18th-century dandies. While most Rub shoulders with Barcelona’s top of the art adorning the walls is chefs and gourmands over a coffee now reproductions, this classic 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 3 THE BEST HOTEL BETS 3 Catalan restaurant still screams spend some time at one of its out- with history. The resident pianist side bars watching Pakistani cricket and general formality only add to players, local kids playing soccer the atmosphere. See p. 110. and Northern European skate- • The First Glance of the Sagrada boarders in a fascinating melting Família: Nothing quite prepares pot of recreational activity. See you for the first glimpse of Gaudí’s p. 153. most famous work. Erupting from • Staying Up until Dawn: A long the center of a suburban city block dinner, a few drinks at a bar, onto a like some retro-futurist grotto, the club and then before you know it temple’s four towers immediately the sun is rising over the Mediter- draw your eyes skyward, before ranean’s party capital, throwing a they drop down to the facade rich warm glow over the city’s palm- in religious symbolism. And that’s filled plazas and streets. Nothing before you step over the threshold beats a slow walk home at this to the (yet still unfinished) inte- magical hour (preferably through rior. See p. 156. the Old City). If you manage to • People-Watching at the MACBA: catch up on your sleep during the The forecourt of the Museum of day, chances are you will repeat the Contemporary Art is a snapshot of experience that night. the new multicultural Barcelona; 2 The Best Hotel Bets • Best for a Romantic Getaway: and amenities have just the right Lovebirds have good reasons not balance of detail and function, to leave the confines of Gran allowing those with a job to do Hotel La Florida, Carretera de to get on with it in comfort. See Tibidabo s/n (& 93-259-30-00), p. 86. a fabulous, newly opened historic • Best for Celebrity Spotting: Pre- hotel—and not all of those rea- ferred choice of top models and sons are to be found in the bed- temperamental rock stars (P. Diddy rooms. The stainless-steel lap reportedly partied up a storm when pool, spa, and gardens offering he came to Barcelona to host the sweeping views of the city are 2002 MTV Awards) the Hotel enticement enough to keep you Arts, Marina 19–21 (& 93-221- holed up for days. See p. 100. 10-00), has remained a jet-set • Best for Art Lovers: As well as playground and symbol of “cool being one of the city’s most stylish Barcelona” for over a decade. See five-stars, the Hotel Claris, Pau p. 96. Claris 150 (& 93-487-62-62), • Best for Service: As well as being has rooms and foyers dotted with a well above average four-star, early Egyptian art and artifacts, the Prestige, Passeig de Gràcia 62 19th-century Turkish kilims, and (& 93-272-41-80), offers a unique even a couple of Roman mosaics, service to its clients.
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