sign in sign up
<<
Home , Catalan art, Catalan cuisine

04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 1

1 The Best of

Unlike many monumental European cities, the Catalan capital’s charm lies in a sum of many small parts. You could fall in love with the city over an encounter with the mélange of street performers along the famous boulevard Les Ramblas or at your first close encounter with a fanciful work of the master architect Antoni Gaudí. It could be the fact that fine city beaches, splendid Gothic palaces, elegant green parkland, cutting edge cafes, and sophisticated shopping are all within arm’s length in this compact metropolis and its inherent easygoing nature means that as much time can be spent on chilling as cultural pursuits. It could be the fact that Barcelona (and ) are truly distinct from the rest of and therefore many pre-conceptions of what it will be like give way to the discovery of a lan- guage, landscape, and people you may have known little about. Over the centuries the Catalan people have clung fiercely to their culture, which General Francisco Franco systematically and often brutally tried to eradi- cate. Catalonia endured, becoming an autonomous region of Spain in which Catalan culture and language flourishes. Barcelona, the region’s lodestar, has truly come into its own. In 2003 nearly four million visitors came to the city, many on charter flights from Northern . The explosion of low-cost, Internet air- lines, plus the good value at hotels and restaurants compared to other European cities, has made Barcelona the European weekender capital. Many come to party, some to soak up the unbeatable Mediterranean climate and most find the time to see a few of its outstanding cultural and architectural offerings. The city’s most powerful monuments open a window onto its history: the intricately carved edifices of the Barri Gòtic, the most intact Gothic Quarter in Europe; the florid, curvilinear (Catalan ), the seminal works of Picasso and Miró, plus daring new projects from national and interna- tional names of the ilk of Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel, and Toyo Ito, Barcelona is a crucial incubator for 20th-century art and architecture. is another regional plus; led by Ferran Adrià, a whom Time listed as one of the 100 most influential people in the world today, “New Catalan ” has even been hailed by the French as the next great culinary wave. In 2004 six restau- rants in the region received the coveted Michelin star. BarcelonaCOPYRIGHTED is on the doorstep of some of Europe’s MATERIAL great playgrounds and vaca- tion retreats. The lie to the east, the Costa Brava to the north, the monastery at Montserrat to the west, and to the south, the Roman city of , and the playground resort of Sitges. A revitalized Barcelona welcomed thousands of visitors to the 1992 Summer Olympic Games, but the action didn’t end when the last medal was handed out. With a culturally savvy local government, the city has become a model for intelli- gent development. On any weekend, as locals enjoy a new park or promenade, an outdoor concert or fiesta, it is clear that this proud population has an enduring love 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BARCELONA

affair with their city. Of the downside of all this progress is that the sound of the jackhammer is never far off. But the Barcelonese believe that while the past must be respected, the future is to be embraced.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Barcelona Experiences • A Stroll along the Ramblas: and croissant and watch the day’s Barcelona’s most famous prom- deliveries coming in. See p. 192. enade pulses with life. The array of • Barhopping in the Barri Gòtic: living statues, street musicians, Whether it’s the iconic, smoke performers, hustlers, and eccentrics filled tapas bar, an Irish pub fre- ensure there is never a dull quented by expats, or a cocktail moment by the time you reach the lounge filled with minimalist fur- end of your kilometer-long stroll. niture and minimally clad patrons, See p. 56. Barcelona’s Old City is a watering- • A Drink at Sunset on the Beach: hole mecca, bar none. One of the The closest thing to an Ibizan best (at time of print, Barcelona’s experience on the mainland, bar scene is famously fickle) is Barcelona’s city beaches are dotted Ginger, a comfy, classy tapas and with chiringuitos (beach bars) and bar with the feel of a private the Mediterranean provides a per- club. See p. 207. fect backdrop for that end-of-day • Sundays on Montjuïc: The drink, often accompanied by the mountain of Montjuïc is the first music of an in-house DJ. See sight that greets visitors arriving at p. 211. the port. Behind its rocky seaside • Exploring the El Born Neigh- face are acres of pine-dotted park- borhood: This port-side pocket of land that cyclists, joggers, and Barcelona was once one of its strollers make a beeline for on the seediest; now the “in” crowds con- weekend; a tranquil contrast to verge on its narrow, tangle of the hustle of the city below and streets by day to check out the lat- some welcome breathing room. est in cutting edge fashion and See p. 161. design and by night for the • A Trip to Tibidabo on the plethora of bars and restaurants Tramvía Blau: The summit of the churning out the ultimate in New highest point on the city’s hilly . See p. 58. backdrop can be reached by a • A Concert at the Palau de la “blue tram,” built as a people car- Música Catalana: This master- rier to the amusement park on the piece of modernista (Art Nouveau) mountain’s peak. For most, the architecture must be one of the fun starts here, as the century-old most lavish concert halls in the tram rattles its way up the moun- world. All strains of classical and tainside and reveals breathtaking jazz are played, but even the most views of the city below. See p. 63. finicky music lover will be moved • Dining at Els Quatre Gats: The by the Palau’s onslaught of decora- original was the preferred hang tive detail. See p. 202. out of a young Picasso and his • at the Boqueria: There Bohemian contemporaries and are about a dozen bars and restau- acted as a fraternity house for late rants in the city’s main market. 18th-century dandies. While most Rub shoulders with Barcelona’s top of the art adorning the walls is chefs and gourmands over a coffee now reproductions, this classic 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 3

THE BEST HOTEL BETS 3

Catalan restaurant still screams spend some time at one of its out- with history. The resident pianist side bars watching Pakistani cricket and general formality only add to players, local kids playing soccer the atmosphere. See p. 110. and Northern European skate- • The First Glance of the Sagrada boarders in a fascinating melting Família: Nothing quite prepares pot of recreational activity. See you for the first glimpse of Gaudí’s p. 153. most famous work. Erupting from • Staying Up until Dawn: A long the center of a suburban city block dinner, a few drinks at a bar, onto a like some retro-futurist grotto, the club and then before you know it temple’s four towers immediately the sun is rising over the Mediter- draw your eyes skyward, before ranean’s party capital, throwing a they drop down to the facade rich warm glow over the city’s palm- in religious symbolism. And that’s filled plazas and streets. Nothing before you step over the threshold beats a slow walk home at this to the (yet still unfinished) inte- magical hour (preferably through rior. See p. 156. the Old City). If you manage to • People-Watching at the MACBA: catch up on your sleep during the The forecourt of the Museum of day, chances are you will repeat the Contemporary Art is a snapshot of experience that night. the new multicultural Barcelona;

2 The Best Hotel Bets • Best for a Romantic Getaway: and amenities have just the right Lovebirds have good reasons not balance of detail and function, to leave the confines of Gran allowing those with a job to do Hotel La Florida, Carretera de to get on with it in comfort. See Tibidabo s/n (& 93-259-30-00), p. 86. a fabulous, newly opened historic • Best for Celebrity Spotting: Pre- hotel—and not all of those rea- ferred choice of top models and sons are to be found in the bed- temperamental rock stars (P. Diddy rooms. The stainless-steel lap reportedly partied up a storm when pool, spa, and gardens offering he came to Barcelona to host the sweeping views of the city are 2002 MTV Awards) the Hotel enticement enough to keep you Arts, Marina 19–21 (& 93-221- holed up for days. See p. 100. 10-00), has remained a jet-set • Best for Art Lovers: As well as playground and symbol of “cool being one of the city’s most stylish Barcelona” for over a decade. See five-stars, the Hotel Claris, Pau p. 96. Claris 150 (& 93-487-62-62), • Best for Service: As well as being has rooms and foyers dotted with a well above average four-star, early Egyptian art and artifacts, the Prestige, Passeig de Gràcia 62 19th-century Turkish kilims, and (& 93-272-41-80), offers a unique even a couple of Roman mosaics, service to its clients. The role of a fruit of the owner’s passion for the concierge is replaced with “Ask collecting. See p. 83. Me,” specially trained information • Best for Business Travelers: In the officers on call to find the answers heart of business district, the to the most challenging queries; AC Diplomatic, Pau Claris 122 from how to score soccer tickets to (& 93-272-38-10), exudes effi- where to find halal restaurants. ciency. The highly tasteful interior See p. 85. 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BARCELONA

• Best Grande Dame: Since it becoming the place to see and opened its doors in 1919, the city’s be-seen among Barcelona’s arts Hotel Ritz, Gran Vía 668 (& 93- elite. See p. 84. 318-52-00), has survived a civil • Best for Sheer Atmosphere: If war, a world war, an anarchist faded glory is your thing then look occupation and the fall of a dic- no further than the Hotel España, tatorship, all while retaining an Sant Pau 11, 08001 Barcelona impeccable level of service and (& 93-318-17-58). Designed by a tradition. During all this, distin- contemporary of Gaudí’s, the guished guests such as the Duke of street-level dining room, filled with Windsor, Ava Gardner, and Sal- florid motif and brass fixtures, will vador Dalí have chosen to stay in whisk you back to the early nine- its gilt and marble surroundings teen hundreds, when it was filled and take refuge in the elegant - with chattering patrons taking sup- room and restaurant. See p. 84. per after a trip to the opera house • Best In-House Restaurant: When next door. See p. 80. celebrated chef Fermin Puig took • Best Location: In terms of loca- over the food department the tion the Hotel Colón, Av. de la highly regarded The Majestic, Pas- Catedral 7 (& 93-301-14-04), is seig de Gràcia 70 (& 93-488-17- the envy of every hotel in the city. 17), he not only revolutionized Placed directly in front of the what clients receive on their break- cathedral’s main entrance, across fast tray but also created Drolma, an expansive square that buzzes one of the country’s most cele- day and night, a front room with brated restaurants. a balcony is the one to ask for Officially recognized with a Miche- when booking this highly recom- lin star, Puig’s take on traditional mended four-star. See p. 73. Catalan and Southern French • Best for Architecture Buffs: Hail- has left most gourmands ing from the early ’50s, the Park drooling at the mouth. See p. 121. Hotel, Av. Marquès de L’Argente- • Best Historic Hotel: The mod- ria 11 (& 93-319-60-00), was the ernista masterpiece Hotel Casa first example of post-war mod- Fuster, Passeig de Gràcia 132 ernista architecture in the city. (& 93-225-30-00), was an The renovation carried out four emblematic building before it was decades later only enhances its sin- recently converted into this lux- gular style, and it sports one of the ury five star. The rooms have most striking staircases in exis- been restored to turn-of-the-20th- tence. See p. 78. century opulence, but with all the • Best Boutique Hotel: The bou- mod-cons expected by today’s tique concept took its time com- high society. See p. 81. ing to Barcelona. Forefront of the • Best Modern Design: Combining movement was Banys Orientals, the best of local talent, Hotel Argenteria 37 (& 93-268-84-60), Omm, Rosselló 265 (& 93-445- and it remains the best. It’s per- 40-00), was almost conceived as fectly located in the middle of El homage to the city’s vibrant design Born district, Barcelona’s bastion culture. Daring concepts prevail of urban chic. See p. 79. from the metal facade and the sleek • Best Small Hotel: Hostal D’Ux- open-plan suites and private ter- elles, Gran Vía 688 and 667 races. On the ground floor, the (& 93-265-25-60), looks like it Omm’s restaurant, Moo, is fast has stepped straight off the pages 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 5

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS 5

of one of those rustic-interiors inner-courtyard with its abun- magazines. Located on the first dance of hanging plants is an oasis floor of two adjacent buildings, from the hustle and bustle out- each of the 14 rooms have a char- side. But book ahead. See p. 80. acter all of their own, but all • Best for Families Who Don’t include canopied beds, antique Want to Break the Bank: The furniture, and Andalusian-style family-run Marina Folch, Carrer ceramic bathrooms. See p. 90. del Mar 16, principal (& 93- • Best for Sea Views: Imagine step- 310-37-09), is the only one in ping off a luxury cruise liner and the beachside neighborhood of straight into a five-star hotel. That Barceloneta, with plenty of open- is pretty-much possible at Hotel air bars and open spaces for the kids Grand Marina, World Trade to run wild. Ask for a room at the Centre, Moll de Barcelona (& 93- front for a balcony with a view of 603-90-00). Housed in the west- the port. See p. 98. ern-wing of the city’s World Trade • Best Hostal: Forget faded curtains Centre, which in itself is built on and floral wallpaper. Gat Raval, a man-made island in the port, Joaquín Costa 44 (& 93-481- Mediterranean vistas greet you at 66-70), is a streamlined hostal every turn. See p. 96. fitted out in acid green and • Best Inexpensive Hotel: Serenity black that has been conceived for and character abound in Hotel the modern world traveler on a Peninsular, Sant Pau 34–36 budget. On-demand Internet access (& 93-302-31-38), a nunnery- and touches of abstract art add toits turned-hotel. Located on a color- contemporary ambience and the ful street just off Les Ramblas, the foyer is always abuzz with travelers Art Nouveau lift, long hallways in exchanging information. See p. 78. tones of green and white and

3 The Best Restaurant Bets • Hottest Chef: Carles Abellán has • Best Place for a Business : been hailed as the new wun- The sleek, urban decor and derkind of nouvelle Catalan cui- smoked-glass mirrors, black-clad sine. His restaurant, Comerç 24, waitstaff, and imaginative Spanish- Comerç 24 (& 93-319-21-02), Italian dishes have made Noti, was conceived as a playful take on Roger de Llúria 35 (& 93-342- all that’s hot in the tapas world. 66-73)—in the heart of the power Delights such as “kinder egg sur- district—a hit with the city’s media prise” (a soft-boiled egg with truf- set and other assorted movers and fle-infused yolk) and sashimi shakers. See p. 125. await the adventurous. See • Best Spot for a Celebration: You p. 109. can make as much noise as you • Best Newcomer: Even rival chefs like at Mesón David, Carretes 63 are talking about Jordi Villa’s (& 93-441-59-34), an old-school Alkimia, Indústria 79 (& 93-207- eatery with an interminable menu 61-15), for his vanguard versions of of dishes from all regions of Spain. classic Catalan and French dishes. Chances are you will be sitting The unstinting minimalism of the next to a raucous group celebrat- interior is a fitting setting for what ing a birthday or engagement with is an unforgettable gastronomic waiters often joining in the revelry experience. See p. 123. themselves. See p. 114. 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BARCELONA

• Best Wine List: You will be the Catalan version of a fish and spoiled for choice at La Vinya del chippery, all kinds of seafood laid Senyor, Plaça Santa María 5 out on ice greet you as you walk in. (& 93-310-33-79), a gorgeous You pick what you want and a few wine bar opposite the towering minutes later, bingo! Out it comes, Santa María del Mar church. Mull hot and steaming, in a cardboard over the 300 varieties on offer box. See p. 114. while taking in its facade from the • Best : Born in Cata- outside terrace, then order some lonia but raised in Canada, chef of their delicious tapas to accom- Jordi Artal instinctively knows how pany your choice. See p. 138. to fuse Old and New World • Best for : A paella-on-the- . The five-course tasting beach is one of the quintessential menu in his upscale Cinc Sentits, Barcelona experiences and there is Aribau 58 (& 93-323-94-90), is a no place better to do it than Can memorable way to sample his Majó, Almirall Aixada 23 (& 93- expertise; a range of tiny dishes 221-54-55). Right on the seafront, using carefully sourced produce this restaurant prides itself on that surprise and delight. See its and fideuàs (which p. 123. replace noodles for ) and is an • Best for Tapas: Taller de Tapas, established favorite among the Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 9 (& 93- city’s most well heeled families. See 301-80-20) and Argenteria 51 p. 136. (& 93-268-85-59), was conceived • Best Modern Catalan Cuisine: to take the mystery out of tapas. With over 10 restaurants, the leg- Multilingual staff and menus endary Tragaluz group has revolu- ensure you don’t get pig’s cheeks tionized Barcelona’s gastronomic when you order green leeks and panorama. its flagship eatery, Tra- the rest of the delectable dishes are galuz, Passatge de la Concepció 5 a perfect initiation for the novice. (& 93-487-06-21), defines not See p. 118. only the city’s contemporary design • Best for People-Watching: The aesthetic, but also its “market” food may not win any awards but cuisine: The freshest seasonal ingre- that doesn’t stop soccer stars, mod- dients are executed to a very high els and other assorted semi-celebs standard. See p. 127. from flocking to CDLC, Passeig • Best Traditional Catalan Cui- Marítim 32 (& 93-244-04-70). sine: Via Veneto, Ganduxer 10 Right on the waterfront in the (& 93-200-72-44), exudes old- Olympic Village and decked out in fashioned class and serves up some fashionable faux-Thai chic, the real of the finest Catalan cooking in fun starts with the post-dinner the land. Some of the serving disco, and you’re not sure whether methods, such as the sterling silver the breeze is rolling in off the duck press, seem to belong to Mediterranean or the rush of air another century (as do some of kisses. See p. 137. the clients). See p. 139. • Best Outdoor Dining Area: As • Best for Kids: Children are wel- well as being one of the best-value come almost everywhere in Spanish restaurants in the city, the Café de restaurants, but why not give them L’Academia, Lledó 1 (& 93-315- a real treat by heading for La 00-26), is blessed with one of the Paradeta, Comercial 7 (& 93-268- prettiest settings; a charming square 19-39)? As close as you can get to in the Old Town flanked by Gothic 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 7

THE BEST RESTAURANT BETS 7

buildings and an ancient water in Barcelona. Thank heavens for fountain. At night the warm glow Organic, Junta de Comerç 11 of the table candles bounces off the (& 93-301-09-02), a barn-like stone walls, ensuring you linger place with communal wooden long on after the last liquor. See tables, an all-you-can-eat salad p. 108. bar, and tempting rice, , and • Best View: Dine on top of the tofu dishes. See p. 115. world, or at least 75m (246 ft.) up • Best for a Sweet Tooth: Sweet but in Torre d’Alta Mar, Passeig Joan never sickly, Espai Sucre, Princesa de Borbón 88 (& 93-221-00-07), 53 (& 93-268-16-30), is perhaps located in a cable-car tower. The the world’s only restaurant that view couldn’t be more mesmeriz- offers a menu made up entirely of ing, allowing you to take an almost- desserts. Foodies rave about it and 360-degree view of the city’s skyline its reputation has spread far and and the surrounding sea in one wide as a once-in-a-lifetime gas- swoop. See p. 134. tronomic experience. Some savory • Best for Seafood: Although good dishes are available. See p. 110. seafood is abundant in Barcelona, • Best for Morning or Afternoon many swear that the best catches Tea: The tiny street of Petritxol in end up in Cal Pep, Plaça des les the Old City is renowned for its Olles 8 (& 93-310-79-61), a tiny granjas, cafes specializing in cakes, bar near the port. Mountains of pastries, and hot chocolate. As well the stuff are prepared in front of as all this Xocoa, Petritxol 11 your eyes by lightning-quick staff (& 93-301-11-97), makes its own and your dexterity is put to test as mouth-watering chocolates and you try not to elbow your neigh- presents them up in funky wrap- bor while peeling your prawns. pers; worthy of picking up to pop See p. 109. in your hand luggage. See p. 185. • Best Wine Bar: Bathed in Bor- • Best for Consistency: Pla, Carrer deaux red, with large arched win- de Bellafila 5 (& 93-412-65-52), dows looking out onto a tranquil strikes that right balance between square, Vinissim, Sant Doménech hip and highly creative without del Call 12 (& 93-301-45-75), has scaring you off. The menu focuses a mind-boggling array of on local market produce with a from all corners of the globe, plus a touch of Asian and Arabic and the scrumptious array of tapas to soak staff are unusually friendly and them up. It offers a pleasing experi- helpful. See p. 112. ence for all the senses. See p. 119. • Best Snack on the Go: Before you • Best for Sunday Lunch: The embark on a visit to the Museum queues say it all: 7 Portes, Passeig of Contemporary Art, fuel-up at Isabel II no. 14 (& 93-319-30-33), Foodball, Elisabets 9 (& 93- one of the oldest restaurants in 270-13-63), a new concept in fast Barcelona, is a Sunday institution. food. Wholegrain rice balls filled Extended families can be seen din- with tofu, wild mushrooms, chick- ing on their excellent meat and fish peas, and the like, plus fresh juices dishes in turn of the century sur- and smoothies are served in a rounds and the photographic mem- quirky setting where you can also orabilia on the walls denotes its eat in. See p. 117. perennial popularity. See p. 134. • Best Retro Interior: For an • Best Vegetarian Restaurant: Tr u e authentic touch of the ’70s, head vegetarian dining is still quite rare up to Flash-Flash Tortillería, 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BARCELONA

Granada del Penedès 25 (& 93- were taken by Leopoldo Pomés, 237-09-90). Bathed in dramatic one of the founders and a top red and white, the photo-murals fashion photographer during the of a model that adorn the walls city’s swinging decade. See p. 131.

4 The Best Bars & Pubs • Best Bar: Sparkling • Best for Predinner Drinks: wine in Spain is called , and Strategically located just off the top often there is very little difference end of Les Ramblas, Boadas, between the local version and what Tallers 1 (& 93-318-88-26), is you get north of the border in another historic watering hole, this . El Xampanyet, Montcada time with its roots in Havana, 22 (& 93-319-70-73), a tiny, Cuba. Predictably mojitos and ceramic-lined cava bar opposite daiquiris are a specialty, and it’s the Picasso Museum, has been relaxed enough to wander in casu- serving up its house variety for ally dressed. See p. 206. generations and is one of the more • Best Irish Pub: While Barcelona atmospheric places to down a bot- abounds with good Celtic-style tle or two. See p. 217. pubs, their wood-lined interiors • Best View: The trek up to the and leather seating are not alto- peak of Tibidabo is worth it for gether congenial on a summer Mirablau, Plaça Doctor Andreu night. The Fastnet, Passeig Juan de s/n (& 93-418-58-79), a chic bar Borbón 22 (& 93-295-30-05), has that provides an unparalleled, an outdoor terrace that looks out panoramic view of the city from onto the port, and is a favorite its floor-to-ceiling glass windows. hangout of visiting yachties and See p. 216. beach-loving expats. See p. 212.

5 The Best for Kids • Sightseeing: Anything by Antoni Museum-wise, a trip to the Gaudí, the city’s most famous Maritime Museum (p. 167) architect, immediately appeals to could be combined with a jaunt young eyes and imaginations. His on Las Golondrinas (p. 176); whimsical Parque Güell (p. 169) quaint, double-decker pleasure with its imagery from the animal boats that take you from the port kingdom and hidden grottoes is a to the breakwater. The Museu de particular favorite. Speaking of ani- la Cera (Wax Museum; p. 146), mals, the city’s world-class Aquar- may not be of the standard of its ium (p. 167) with its walkthrough counterpart in London, but is tunnels and superb collection of interesting enough to make it Mediterranean marine-life is also a worth a visit. Older children will good bet. The somewhat older and also find the Chocolate Museum less-funded Parque Zoológico (p. 150) enticing and the newly (p. 152) has a fantastic primate opened Science Museum (p. 171) collection and is located in the has excellent hands-on exhibits for Parque Ciutadella (p. 151) which all ages. Then, of course, there are also boasts a lake with row boats the beaches—most with showers, for hire, swings and other assorted toilets, bars, and hammocks for kiddie attractions. hire. 04_577921 ch01.qxd 3/29/05 11:27 AM Page 9

THE BEST FOR KIDS 9

• Trips: An all-time favorite is (p. 175) is neoclassical park com- the Parc d’Atraccions Tibidabo plete with a maze in an outer sub- (p. 174); an amusement park on urb of the city. Further afield, top of the city’s highest peak, has Montserrat (p. 219); Catalonia’s death-defying attractions and a few “spiritual heart” offers plenty of gentler ones from bygone days. walking tracks on its rocky terrain, The Parc del Laberint d’ Horta caves to visit, and a monastery.