OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN ENGLISH EDITION! ENGLISH

GET READY FOR YOUR CLOSE-UP. COME FACE-TO-FACE WITH AMAZING ART ON THE CITY’S STREETS... 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Time Out in English The Best February 2015 A meditating bull is just one of the fabulous artworks of BCN youoll Ɓnd on Barcelonaos streets p. 20

Features 14. Open-air art The streets of Barcelona are, sadly, not paved with gold, but, as Ricard Mas proves, they are full of 21st-century art... 20. All the city’s a canvas ...and a lot of not-so-recent artwork as well. María José Gómez takes us on a short tour. 22. What Barcelona wears Residents share their wardrobe choices as Hannah Pennell checks out local style. 26. A place to feel at home Cyclists, surfers and Lost fans. In BCN, Ricard Martín tells us, they all have their own bar. 28. Musicals masterclass

Juan Carlos Olivares compares and contrasts MORENO IVÁN two of the biggest stage shows now on. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 62. Clubs 64. LGBT

65. Getaways MORENO IVÁN MARIA DIAS Barcelona is full of fan bars – for aƁcionados of Meet three local designers showing their wares 66. BCN Top Ten rock, Seat 600s and Sara Montiel p. 26 at this month’s 080 Barcelona Fashion p. 30

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Impressió LitograƁa Rosés Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribució S.A.D.E.U. editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Dipòsit legal B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Pol Pareja | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors Marcelo ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada , Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, IRISNEGRO Martí Sales, Isaac Simon, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD®

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 3 The BCN_FEB 2015 hot list SUNDAY MONDAY 01 02 Family Concert Clarinetarium Tweedy Musical fun for children Jeff Tweedy and son at CaixaForum. perform at L’Auditori. CHRISTIAN BERTRAND FRIDAY SATURDAY THURSDAY 06 07 12 Concert Concert Traditions Pixar in concert Josep Carreras Santa Eulàlia Live show of music from The tenor pays homage Celebration to mark popular cartoons. to Catalan music. feast day of city patron.

Museum of World Cultures. Barcelona’s newest Barcelona half marathon. Thousands of runners tie up DON’T MISS! museum opens its doors in Carrer Montcada. SAT 7 their trainers to pound the city streets. SUN 15

SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY THURSDAY 14 15 16 19 Tradition Dance Concert Exhibition Carnival procession Dot Katy Perry Odyssey of Soyuz 2 Fun and games in the Colourful dance show for The US pop princess The mysterious fate of a last party before Lent. the whole family. performs her hits. Sputnik cosmonaut.

FRIDAY SUNDAY TUESDAY FRIDAY 20 22 24 27 Dance Football Concert Exhibition Semperoper Ballett Barça vs Málaga Scott Bradlee Maria Lassnig German company See the mega-club take Jazz covers of familiar Works by Austrian artist interprets Forsythe. on the Andalusian side. pop and rock hits. who died last year. COSTIN RADU

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 5 People of Barcelona Luna Cohen BCN: Singer-, 38 years old TOP SECRET

B. García & M. Sales You weren’t planning to be a musician, but... I’d never sung and was just _Ten indigenous about to start studying at [Barcelona art school] Americans are Massana. One day I was walking buried in an around singing quietly to myself, when Manu umarked grave Chao suddenly appeared and in Montjuïc started accompanying me on his guitar. I didn’t know who he was. cemetery; part He later recorded me singing of Buffalo Bill’s and that’s how people got to hear me. But my music is totally travelling show different from his. that visited in the That’s true. So if you’d never crossed paths, perhaps you 1890s, they died wouldn’t be a musician today? after catching Ƃ u. It would never have occurred to me to follow this path. But as a _ Delacrem has result, I signed up to the Taller de the perfect winter Músics [music school]. In Brazil, music is everywhere. And in my ice cream, affogato home city of Belo Horizonte, MARIA DIAS d’amaretto: a scoop there’s a lot of live music. The place where metal group I absorb many sounds, but of amaretto in a Sepultura comes from – it’s got particularly jazz; pop doesn’t do cup of coffee (Enric everything! much for me. Well, I like Litus a And Toninho Horta. There’s a lot – I don’t understand why he Granados, 15). wide range of sounds. isn’t more appreciated. I get a bit Do you like making music that annoyed that the same people _Barcelona’s highlights your origins? always play at festivals. Isn’t underground scene It’s important to me to sing in there anybody else? Portuguese. I started singing A PLACE: THE SANT FELIP You’ve been going to London a thrives at La Virgen English-language hits and I NERI FOUNTAIN lot lately, haven’t you? and 23 Robadors in couldn’t do them proper justice. Symbol of a peaceful space Yes, a lot has happened to me in Having said that, I work with more and, she says, full of interesting a short space of time. They make the Raval, with wild Catalan musicians than Brazilian acoustic characteristics. me feel special and the jam sessions, Ɓ lm ones, creating a fusion sound. audiences are very receptive. You don’t work thinking about It’s more difƁ cult to make a screenings and the local Brazilian audience? living as a musician here. Ƃ amenco. I don’t even know if that exists. In Catalunya, there is a lot of However, I’m currently working talent, but also a fear of the _ The raised with guitarist Jurandir Santana, unknown, and the sector, the gardens of Baluard who is very well-known in Brazil producers, the press are all and lives in Barcelona. He plays conservative. I think it’s a shame de Drassanes, with people like Gilberto Gil PLACE OF BIRTH: BELO that music is championed based closed since 1993, when they perform in Europe. HORIZONTE on language; there is music here We’ve made a digital EP together, Capital of the Minas Gerais state. in other languages and also now open the Ɓ rst which has just come out on She has also spent time living in instrumental works that don’t and third Sunday of iTunes, ahead of a record I’m Bahia and Madrid. get a look in. Catalunya can’t planning to make in the spring. keep going like that. each month. Do you aim to integrate music –Jordi Bianciotto that is popular in Catalunya?

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com I love BCN La Pedrera Provença, 261-265

After 11 months of cleaning works, What am I Gaudí’s epic building has just revealed its façade once more. doing here?

Jan Fleischer Art up and down

Living in Barcelona you can take for granted the art that is everywhere. My daily routine alone takes me past the Sagrada Família, the castellers monument (see p. 16), Fontcuberta’s ode to freedom (and kissing) (see p. 18), and the Santa Caterina Market with its wavy and colourful mosaic roof. You might already have these iconic buildings and open-air artworks on your itinerary, but don’t forget when walking around to pull your eyes away from that map or GPS device and take it all in. Here’s a tip for while you’re strolling along: look up. (Another tip is to make sure you’re not in the middle of a path of busy locals rushing to work before you stop to look up.) With your eyes skyward you’ll see buildings from different periods as neighbours, plant and animal shapes in wrought- iron gates, sculpture in architecture. Don’t forget to look down now and again to avoid surprises that are better not stepped in. While your gaze is downward, notice the pavement. You might be treading on Ƃ owers set in square

FUNDACIÓ CATALUNYA-LA PEDRERA CATALUNYA-LA FUNDACIÓ tiles, hexagons designed by Gaudí, or even a work by Miró in the middle of La Rambla (Pla de l’Os), which thousands of visitors walk WTF IS... over each day without realising it. Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer While you’re in Barcelona, deƁ nitely take in the big sights and museums, but don’t forget about all the free art available in smaller galleries, in the streets, buildings, Calçot and even in nature. Barcelona is on the Mediterranean Sea, after all, and what a great work of art that is. The calçot (cal-SOT) is an onion- or leek-like seasonal Catalan delicacy cooked over an open grill. Peel off the skin, Jan walks different routes to dunk in romesco (almond and red pepper) sauce, eat. Enjoy. work every day.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 7 6 Climb up the magical Montjuïc This ‘mountain’ is perfect for a leafy walk with great views, although it takes a bit of legwork to climb. With buildings 20 GREAT from the 1992 Olympic Games, as well as the Jardi Botànic and castle, it’s worth it. Back at the bottom, the Mies van der Rohe Pavillion and CaixaForum are THINGS TO the ones to see. MARIA DIAS 7 Walk on the arty side 2 Museums are on almost every DO IN BCN Discover the city on foot corner in Barcelona, but one Barcelona is the perfect size for jewel not to miss is the MNAC, strolling around. Stunning with from the buildings and parks abound, but Romanesque period to the mid- there’s also a Barcelona you won’t 20th century. On a smaller scale, Ɓnd in the guidebooks: head up to the is free, has Horta (above), get to know the great exhibitions, and the charms of , or discover building itself is worth a gander. YOU’RE SHORT ON TIME AND BARCELONA IS FULL the village-like Sarrià. OF AMAZING SIGHTS. WHERE DO YOU START? HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS 3 8* Explore As well as the big hits, be sure to THE RAVAL visit some of Gaudí’s less-famed creations, such as Palau Güell and Once called the ‘Barrio Casa Viçens. Works by other Chino’, this neighbourhood modernista architects not to be has inspired many a writer. missed include and Nowadays, it’s a place where the Hospital de la Santa Creu i local businesses thrive in the Sant Pau, a World Heritage Site. form of unique shops and restaurants, while still maintaining some of its 4 seedy underworld glamour. Get to know the city’s history Urban culture is booming Barcelona is full of diverse cultures here, alongside gems such as and heritages – with every step you the CCCB and Filmoteca. take through its streets, you’ll stumble upon some of its history. Plaça del Rei, Born Cultural Centre and Museum Marítim are just 9 some of the city’s must-sees. Hit a high note in concert Barcelona has excellent live music venues and wonderful 5 concert halls. The opera See the city of Picasso’s house is a survivor in splendour, 1* youth with gold leaf, plush red carpets Do a vermouth crawl! Start at C/Mercè, 3, where and ornate carvings; L’Auditori is Everything tastes better the Picasso family once lived a sleek space with capacity for accompanied by a good (the building no longer 2,400 concert-goers. vermut, especially with a stands). Head to Els 4 Gats, bite to eat. Try the house where artists gathered to vermouth at classics Bar dine and discuss their trade. 10 Calders, La Pepita and Bar Lastly, go to the Museu Visit the gay heart of the city Electricitat. Picasso, a beautiful medieval Barcelona’s gay capital is deƁnitely building housing works from the , nicknamed Picasso’s formative years. Gaixample for the sheer number of

DID YOU KNOW? February 12 is the feast day of the city’s co-patron saint, Eulàlia; she is also the patron of stonemasons and housewives.

8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com stores and clubs that cater to this clientele. Start the night with a drink 16* in Museum or Plata Bar; if dancing till dawn is your goal, Metro is a SEAFOOD great choice, as is Arena, where both boys and girls are welcome. No one leaves Barcelona without sampling the seafood. The city toasts the 12 Ɓne and luxurious Galician Perfect your path to heaven restaurant Rias de Galicia Visit some of the city’s magniƁcent in Poble-sec, as well as churches such as Sant Pau del Cachitos in the Eixample, for Camp, a rare example of their fantastic assortment Romanesque architecture, of seafood. In Barceloneta, with a fantastical façade and Can Solé serves up a extraordinary cloister. The graceful spectacular haul of fresh basilica of Santa Maria del Mar is seafood every day. perhaps the best surviving example of . 17 13 Much more than a club Get your vitamin D Savour the best in new For many visitors, a trip to Ɓx on the seafront Catalan cooking Barcelona is not complete terrace of Santa Barcelona’s creative without heading to the Camp Marta. See 18. cuisine offering is Nou. Even if football isn’t your

MARIA DIAS extensive, and though it thing, you could take a turn or two can mean making more around its ice rink. room on your credit card as well as in your stomach, if you dine in Dos Palillos, Moments or 18 Tickets, it’ll be an experience Get out! well worth it. The best place to take a break here is in one of the many outdoor bars 11* and cafés – yes, even at this time of HEAD TO THE MACBA FOR 14 year. Santa Marta is a hip Discover your sweet tooth Barceloneta hangout with a huge EXHIBITIONS, EXPERT For posh chocolates in fancy terrace, while another option is Bar SKATEBOARDERS packaging, head to Escribà or Calders, a friendly hole-in-the-wall Bubó, where every bonbon is a with a terrace. AND EXTRAORDINARY work of art. With the cold weather ARCHITECTURE. you might well fancy a hot chocolate, so stop by one of the 19 Inaugurated in 1995, Richard cafés on C/Petritxol, serving the Wander the neighbourhoods Meier’s building is a temple of thick, rich drink favoured by locals. Many Barcelona visitors stick to natural light. the central areas, but the city is so much more. Gràcia is full of life at all hours of the day, while Poble-sec 15* and Sant Antoni are currently the places to be, especially for their THE MED top cuisine and quality entertainment. This may not be the best month to take a dip in the sea (although there are some 20 hardy souls who swim there Enjoy a really good party every day of the year), but the Once you’ve got to know Barcelona almost consistently sunny by day, let it all hang out in the best weather means that heading clubs in town for an unforgettable down for a saunter along the night. Sidecar is where indie beachfront, perhaps with a rockers have been getting their Ɓx stop for a glass of something, for 30 years, while Magic is the is always a good idea. quintessential Barcelona rock club. If funk and hip hop are more your thing, your best bet is Marula.

During the week of Carnival, schoolchildren here often have to go to school dressed up, for example in their PJs, with funny glasses or a wig.

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Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info on what to do while you’re Theatre, Ɓlm, dance, festivals, concerts, here in town kids shows... On our website you’ll Ɓnd details about what’s on right now, and up-to- You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website, date news about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you events added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun. can get discounts, get your tickets early and beneƁt from special offers.

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12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 13 COMIC MURAL DANIEL TORRES, 2011 Mural Comics for grown-ups Ɓrst arrived in Barcelona during the ’70s. One of the main currents in the new genre was the ligne claire or ‘clear line’ URBAN style of drawing, pioneered in Belgium in comics such as Hergé’s Tintin. The Norma Editorial publishing house immediately threw itself behind the ligne claire, publishing comic artists including Mariscal, Mique Beltrán, Micharmut, Sento and Daniel Torres. And it was Torres who was commissioned to decorate the exterior of the Norma Editorial warehouse in Poblenou, MUSEUM with a beautiful and nostalgic homage to an era.

YOU DON’T NEED TO VISIT THE MACBA TO SEE 21ST-CENTURY THE ANTS ART. JUST OPEN YOUR EYES – THERE’S ART ALL AROUND YOU. JOAN SALVAT-PAPASSEIT AND JOSÉ MANUEL PINILLO (EXECUTION), By Ricard Mas Photography Maria Dias 2004 Mural, 7 x 7 m Where the Passeig del Born crosses Carrer Rec, if your eyes wander up, they’ll light on a calligram by Joan Salvat-Papasseit, ’s best-loved avant-garde poet. It comes from his 1921 book L’irradiador del port i les gavines (The Port Beacon onuments are out of and the consolidation of the ‘liquid and the Seagulls), and reads: ‘Camí fashion. Outsize values’ and ‘soft power’ of del sol / per les rutes amigues / les human Ɓgures, postmodernity. formigues’ (‘On the way to the sun / sometimes on And this can be seen in the along friendly routes / go the ants’). horseback, cast in monuments – sorry, public artworks – of Its transfer to this monumental scale bronze to Barcelona, mostly funded by ofƁcial on an end wall was the idea of José commemorate institutions. Will it be long before we see Manuel Pinillo, and was part of the heroes of the public artworks funded via Kickstarter? Mapapoètic project, held to mark fatherland or the Will there always be griping when the BCN’s Universal Forum of Cultures in Mfallen in countless wars. This is the era of authorities unveil a new artwork, 2004. What a pity there aren’t more Facebook, in which public life has because people would rather see the tributes to poets like this one. been replaced by shares, likes and self- money spent on something more useful? satisƁed selƁes. Statues like the What’s the point of art anyway? In your monument to 19th-century dramatist own home, you choose the decorations, AIDS MURAL Frederic Soler Pitarra, on La Rambla, look but on the streete Is that why there are KEITH HARING, 1989 (2014) like anachronistic relics of a bygone era, so many monuments with a minimalist Mural, 2 x 30 m somewhere between totem poles and aesthetic? Could we draw up a list of the On February 27, 1989, the American over-iced cakes. least fashionable subjects for public art? artist Keith Haring painted a 30-metre- The age of monuments came to an end And another with subjects that are on the long mural in Plaça Salvador Seguí. It with the attack on the World Trade Center. up? For example, military, religious and read: ‘Todos juntos podemos parar el Nowadays, the most important political leaders are on the way out. sida’ (‘Together we can stop Aids’). memorials are built with empty space, Writers (preferably poets), causes like Below, a series of human Ɓgures were like Frederic Amat’s ‘SOLC. A Salvador Aids and oppressed minorities, civil chased by a snake, whose tail they cut Espriu’ (2014), a concrete-lined society, and interactive installations get off and on which they put a condom. trench at the top of Passeig de Gràcia, more popular by the day. Haring died a year later, himself a shaped like an imprint of the giant All this and more can be seen on the victim of Aids. In 1992, as part of a obelisk behind it to commemorate city council’s website. In the ‘by theme,’ renovation project, the mural was Catalan poet Salvador Espriu. section, the ‘Art Públic’ link takes you to destroyed, but not before an exact The 20th century was the century of an exhaustive catalogue of public survey had been made, and paint utopias, of two world wars, genocide, the artworks, fully translated: a total of samples taken. In 2014, the mural atomic bomb and the Cold War. The 21st 2,815 works spanning 800 years of the was reconstructed in the MACBA’s has scarcely been more peaceful, but history of the city’s monuments, with back courtyard, on a concrete wall that has seen the evolution of concepts like photographs, historical essays and separates the museum from ‘the welfare state’ and ‘public interest’, details of each work. apartments on Carrer Ferlandina.

14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com COMIC MURAL ART TALK

THE ROAMING CAT Fernando Botero’s cat must be the best-travelled sculpture in town. Seven metres long and weighing over two t onnes, it was originally installed in Ciutadella park, in 1989. In 1992 it was moved to the Olympic ring and, a few months later, to a site behind the medieval shipyards. In 2003 the feline took up residence in its current home on Rambla del Raval. A CRUEL CUT When the Ɓgure of a youth on the Font del Geni Català (The Fountain of the Catalan Genius) on Pla del Palau, was unveiled in 1856, he was completely naked. A few days later, the city’s bishop ordered his genitals be re- moved, and the hole covered. In 1980 it was revealed, but only the testicles remained. During the ’90s he was endowed with a resin tube, which proved unsatisfac- tory... and in 2008, his parts were fully reinstated.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 15 SANTA CATERINA FOUNTAIN ENRIC MIRALLES AND BENEDETTA ART TAGLIABUE, 2006 Marble and stucco. Irregular dimensions TALK In 1233 King Jaume I granted the right to use the waters of the Rec Comtal, the city’s main water supply, to the Dominican friars in the convent of INCOGNITO Santa Caterina. The convent was The best-hidden disentailed and turned into a market, sculptures in but the water continued to Ƃow. And Barcelona are when Miralles and Tagliabue radically the statues of the refurbished the market, they restored Virgin Mary in Plaça the fountain in the shape of pieces of Catalunya (1928). salt cod hanging by their tails. Market One, the work of En- workers once used the fountain to ric Monjo, depicts a female Ɓgure with desalt cod, the food of the poor. And in the Virgin of Núria; the shallow basins that decorate the the other, by Eusebi fountain, if you happen to have a piece Arnau, a bearded of salt cod handy, you can replicate the old man and the age-old operation. Black Virgin of Montserrat. In the anti-Catholic TO BROSSA atmosphere of the Civil War, they PEREJAUME, 2009 escaped notice #TVKƁEKCNUVQPGYJKVGTGUKPCPF and were places laminated steel, 17 x 3.75 m of discreet public Perejaume, one of the most celebrated prayer. contemporary Catalan artists, is a self- declared disciple of Joan Brossa, the A SOCKFUL OF ART artist, poet, magician and jester who In 1991 Gae Au- introduced visual poetry to the city. True lenti, the architect to Brossa’s playful spirit, Perejaume commissioned to takes an end wall on the Plaça de la refurbish the Palau Prosperitat, in the district of the same Nacional, suggest- name, and spreads the six letters of ed a modern sculp- Brossa’s name between the wall and ture for its Oval the ground, traced by dotted lines that, Hall. Tàpies pre- sented a design for according to the artist, are inspired by an 18-metre-high the game of hopscotch, or xarranca as sock, which, after it’s known in Catalan. But Brossa’s TO BROSSA furious squabbles name isn’t easy to decipher – you can between political only see it at a distance. parties, came to nothing. Since 2010 you can see TO THE CASTELLERS a reduced version – 2.75m tall – in the ANTONI LLENA, 2012 Tàpies Foundation. Steel tubes, 25 m tall This towering monument to the Catalan tradition of human tower building, the castells, took up more space in the newspapers than it does in its Ɓnal location behind Barcelona’s city hall. Commissioned from the artist in 2004, it was supposed to be erected near Santa Caterina market. A series of setbacks almost consigned the piece to limbo, but it was Ɓnally installed with various modiƁcations, including a reduced height, and without a metal sheet at the top. At the foot is a verse by poet Paul Celan: ‘Sóc més jo si tu ets més tu’ (‘I am more me if you are more you’), a tribute to the castellers’ spirit. Locals have overcome their initial opposition, and now people scribble drawings in chalk around the work. It’s almost as if SANTA CATERINA FOUNTAIN they were heeding Celan’s words.

16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com ART TALK

PUTTING A HOOF IN In 1887, General Joan Prim i Prats bombarded Barcelona. A third of the city’s buildings were destroyed. In 1887 the city council erected a monument to Prim in Ciutadella park. In 1937 the Joventuts Llibertàries de Gràcia destroyed it to take the bronze. Only one of the horse’s hooves was left. The statue was reconstructed in 1948 by Frederic Marés. GIANT ARCHES The largest THE ANTS sculpture in Barcelona is like a giant gateway to the city. It’s called Waves (2003) and was created by Valencian sculptor Andreu Alfaro dur- ing the redevelop- ment of the Moll de la Fusta. It is made up of seven huge steel arches, the largest of which is 42 metres high and weighs 37 tonnes, with a span of 88 metres.

ALSTO THE CASTELLERS CASTELLERS MURAL AIDS DE MURALLA SIDA

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 17 MEETING POINT ART JORDI BENITO, 2009 Engraved on granite TALK Meeting points are an attempt to create a point of reference in non-places. This meeting point, however, also serves to commemorate the words of the SCULPTED CANVAS grammarian Pompeu Fabra – ‘Amb un acte de paraula podem expressar més ‘La dama del parai- gua’ (1884) (‘Lady d’un pensament’(‘With an act of speech with Umbrella’), we can express more than one the sculpture by thought’) – chosen by the poet Antoni Roig i Solé that wel- Marí, converted into a logical formula by comes visitors to the scientist Jorge Wagensberg, and Barcelona

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BARCELONA IS RICH IN HISTORICAL ARTWORKS THAT CAN BE ENJOYED BY US ALL. Mª JOSÉ GÓMEZ BY

A ROOM WHERE IT’S ALWAYS RAINING

TOPOS V OPEN-AIR ART ALSMATCHES CASTELLERS MURAL TURÓ DE LA PARK SIDA

20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com When Barcelona was preparing to budgets are necessary to create host the 1992 Olympic Games, as remarkable architecture. Probably well as renewing the urban the least known of the modernista infrastructure and importing masterpieces, it is also one of the tonnes of sand to create beaches, most engaging and fascinating. some spectacular pieces of art were introduced to local streets. TURÓ PARK, 1933 But perhaps this wasn’t such a novelty for a city where beautiful Av Pau Casals, 19 features seem to be in its DNA, and This space was designed by where 2,000 years of history have Nicolau Rubió i Tudurí, who took an left an extraordinary creative idealised English garden – with footprint. There are myriad gems to lawns, fountains and lily ponds – discover – this is the briefest of as his model, adapting it to suit guides to Barcelona’s rich outdoor Mediterranean Ƃ ora. One of his artistic heritage. most inspired decisions was to keep the existing plant life, and today the park boasts incredibly A ROOM WHERE IT’S ALWAYS old and well-grown trees. RAINING, 1992 Plaça del Mar Juan Muñoz’s installation faces San MATCHES, 1992 Sebastià beach in Barceloneta. It’s Av. Cardenal Vidal i Barraquer/ a melancholy work that invites Pare Mariana TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS contemplation: the poetic setting Does such an everyday item – surrounded by trees with the sea deserve to be rendered as a as backdrop – softens its vision of 21-metre-high sculpture? For the loneliness of modern life. Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, artistic collaborators and husband and wife, the answer TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS, 1AD is yes. These monumental Paradís, 10-12 matches show that the smallest Barcelona was founded by the objects can become works of art. Romans in the Ɓ rst century AD on Mons Taber, a small hill under what is now Plaça Sant Jaume. Tucked TOPOS V (PLACE), 1986 away in the courtyard of a hiking Plaça del Rei club, you’ll Ɓ nd a surprise reminder In a corner of the medieval square, of the city’s past: the remaining this unassuming and restrained columns of the Temple of Augustus. sculpture is still able to make its presence felt. Its quiet power is typical of the work of one of CASA PLANELLS, 1923-24 ’s most important Av. Diagonal, 323 20th-century sculptors, Josep Maria Jujol was one of the Eduardo Chillida. masters of Catalan modernisme, but his work tends to be MEDITATION subtle and (BULL), 1972 restrained, a world Rambla Catalunya/ away from the Gran Via ornate decoration Josep Granyer’s sculpture preferred by his – a reimagining of Rodin’s contemporaries. ‘Thinker’ as a brooding The commission for bull – has a friend at the Casa Planells came top of Rambla Catalunya: from a builder, Evelí ‘Coqueta’, a Ƃ irtatious Planells, and Jujol giraffe coyly used it to prove that contemplating her hoof. neither huge plots Animals were a nor unlimited characteristic feature of the Barcelona artist’s work – he called them his ‘surrealist zoo’, a series of beasts in CASA PLANELLS human poses. FOTOS: IVÁN MORENO IVÁN FOTOS:

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 21 ISABEL (34) VILA OLÍMPICA Vintage jacket: from a shop in Carrer Riera Baixa Dress: Mango Ankle boots: & Other Stories BCN Bag: Top Shop STYLE

We take a snapshot (or five) of what Barcelona residents like to wear. By Hannah Pennell Photography Maria Dias

‘Vain triƂes as they seem, clothes bright yellow T-shirt is likely to have, they say, more important favour Catalan independence – ofƁces than to merely keep us these garments have been sold in warm.’ Virginia Woolf recent years to wear on September 11, Catalonia Day. Then there are Barcelona is a stylish city. Home to more subtle expressions of self – internationally renowned fashion many favour special footwear or a companies, it lends its name to a stand-out piece of jewellery set gorgeous Mies van der Rohe chair against a more restrained outƁt. and has an urban aesthetic that These are people who care about delights many. But what of its what they wear, but are unlikely to people? How do they dress? Can go for the big statement look. It’s they match their home town on the often easy to tell who isn’t local, style stakes? This is a place that because their clothes don’t blend has independent clothing retailers quite so seamlessly into this city in almost as numerous as bars, a which they Ɓnd themselves. The thriving design sector and a largely Ɓne folk on the following pages are non-judgmental attitude to what but a tiny sample of the others wear, all of which makes for population’s sartorial sense. If a varied spectrum of looks on local you’re inspired by what you see – streets. Some want to make an both here and around the city – to instant declaration with their give your look a Barcelona touch, attire. Barça fans regularly and we suggest where to Ɓnd your proudly wear their azulgrana (blue head-to-toe essentials. These are and burgundy) shirt. Anyone in a no mere triƂes.

HATS SUNGLASSES If you’re looking for a warm hat to cope with a A pair of sunglasses that are light, Ƃexible, sudden cold snap, head (!) straight to Dekap. cool and original. The best product from They work with Goorin Bros, Brixton and Uniqbrow is the interchangeable range – a HEAD Bailey, and the range is so varied that if you different frame for every day of the week with don’t Ɓnd something you like, we’ll eat our... a single set of lenses. Mix and match glasses! By Eugènia Sendra Ferlandina, 61 Montsió, 9

22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com LALI (28) SARRIÀ Shoes: No name Blouse: Brandy Trousers: Cos Jacket: Comptoir des Cotonniers Hat: American Apparel

ALEIX (35) SANTA EULÀLIA Cardigan: Levi’s Made & Crafted Shirt: Fred Perry Jeans: Marc by Marc Jacobs Bag: Sandqvist Ankle boots: Muratti

BAGS UMBRELLAS SOCKS The beauty of leather transformed into a Miró Barcelona is dedicated to the produc- In Nuovum the focus is on design and new timeless handbag, the kind that will last you tion and sale of umbrellas and parasols, local creatives. So it makes sense this shop is a lifetime. The creations of Carolina Iriarte typical accessories from the 19th century where you’ll Ɓnd PaciƁc, producer of limited- (whose label is Iriarte Iriarte) are one of the that Miró creates today with their original edition socks whose aim is to support what best souvenirs you can take home with you. colour and style. they call ‘the most-forgotten piece of clothing’. Cotoners, 12 Riera Alta, 33-35 Pintor Fortuny, 30

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 23 MARIA (47) POBLE-SEC Coat: Manata Poncho: from her grandma Jeans: Levi’s Leg warmers: made by her Glasses: Dula Hat: gift from Lola Bastardo Bag & gloves: Mango Trainers: Munich

POL (27) VALLCARCA Sweater: Norse Projects Shirt: Knowledge Cotton Apparel Jacket: The North Face Trousers: Cheap Monday Trainers: Nike Roshe Run

TRAINERS SHOES For 21 years Hackney has been a go-to place Wedge ankle boots, moccasins with walking- for urban style, including trainers. They’re boot soles and ‘sparkling’ sandals. About fans and specialists and, as well as stocking Arianne shoes, designed in Barcelona for men mainstream lines, they up the ante with and women and made in the Valencia region, TOE limited editions. suit anyone seeking footwear with personality. Travessera de Gràcia, 167 Esquirol, 5

24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 25 BARS

NEVERMIND FOR MORENO IVÁN FANS

These days, opening a bar is a labour of love. Even more so if the owner has a hobby that’s almost a religion. They’re bars run by and for fans. By Ricard Martín BOLLOCKS

Whoever you are, there’s a bar for you. A fans of the Seat 600 hold their meetings. But being impressed by the handlebars mounted second home to the people who run it, a bar what strikes you when you walk in is the front like hunting trophies, and admiring the reƂects the owner’s passions and aversions. end of a Seat 600, presiding over the whole functionality and style of a design scheme Here’s my personal theory: outside work and room. It looks like scale model, but it’s real – that’s angular, metallic and, at the same time, the ofƁce, people in Barcelona don’t really a symbol of a whole country’s economic inviting. ‘We built it this way so that if you come have hobbies. And that’s why theme bars are development, and a reminder of how far Spain in with your bike, you can’t break anything,’ thin on the ground. But the ones there are are has come. It was the Ɓrst 600 Santoll bought, explains Santiago. You can park your bike lots of fun. Here’s where to go to: way back in 1965. His father took over the bar inside the bar on Thursdays and Fridays; they in 1958, when it was an ‘artist’s bar’, and he have live music, exhibitions and a nicely- …pay homage to the 600 doesn’t even remember when it Ɓrst opened. thought-out and affordable cocktail menu. If there’s one car that inspires devotion and The vision of the Seat 600 and a Ɓgure of Mr Anything that’s not nailed down is for sale. A fanaticism across Spain, it’s the Seat 600, Spock heighten the sense of unreality. And great place for a freewheeling night out. popularly known as the ayga, an acronym of there’s something about ordering a carajillo arroz y garbanzos – rice and chickpeas, the (coffee with a dash of liquor) where, according …crank up your throttle cheap staples that were all the people who to legend, Greta Garbo once sipped a cocktail. Sitting at the bar in Paddock (Paral·lel, 92), I bought it could afford. (An expensive imported watch beer pour from a tap mounted on a car was known as an haiga from the tortured …get on your bike Yamaha engine. Chelo Miranda explains that grammar of lo mejor que haiga, ‘the best there If the Seat 600 was a great leveller, what about around 1991, her brother and his friends, all is’.) Behind the bar at Taita (Mestre Nicolau, the bike? Any Brompton-wielding urban cyclist motorbike-crazy, were banned by the police 11), the HQ of the Barcelona 600 Club, José will feel right at home at El Ciclista (Mozart, from racing down the hairpins on Montjuïc. Luis Santoll sings the praises of a car that, 18), an elegant cocktail bar that is also a Their passion for bikes was channelled into today, seems to have done as much for shrine to pedal power. The owners, Santiago turning the family restaurant into a biker bar. Spanish democracy as the whole process of and Fernando, are a designer and a cocktail Today, 23 years later, Paddock is an institution. the Transición. ‘It was the Ɓrst car that waiter who taught each other their respective If you want to buy or sell a motorbike, share a everyone could afford, and it got Spain on the skills. ‘This is an homage to the urban cyclist, trip, or just swap biking stories, this is the road,’ he explains. Taita is a friendly bar with without stereotypes,’ they inform me. All the place for you. While the area in and around the old-fashioned feel of a bodega, and the décor is their own work, and although your Avinguda Paral·lel seems to be losing its down-to-earth warmth that’s so scarce in humble correspondent has never understood community spirit, this is a bar where fathers uptown districts. There’s a dining room where the fetishistic appeal of the bike, he can’t help and sons drink together. The owners of

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com THERE’S MORE!

SURF HOUSE This surf-themed restaurant serves decent meals. And with the summer crowds yet to come, its terrace makes an exceptional vantage point to enjoy the breeze and the views of a wintry sea. Almirall Aixada, 22 (Barceloneta) 93 250 70 23

PEPE’S BAR Located across the road from Razz 2, everyone knows you can Ɓnd the best sandwiches at Pepe’s. And fans of Los Suaves, legends of Spanish heavy metal from the ’80s, will Ɓnd all their merchandise, ready-autographed. Pamplona, 91 (El Parc & La Llacuna del Poblenou) 660 018 106 EL CICLISTA

IRENE FERNÁNDEZ POLAROID BAR If you’re nostalgic for the ’80s, especially the Ɓlms, a visit to Polaroid is a must. The whole bar is a shrine to the era of Dirty Dancing, every inch of wall space covered by idols from the years when mullets ruled the earth. Còdols, 29 (Gòtic) 93 186 66 69

LA CONCHA Sara Montiel was the great diva of Spanish cinema in the ’50s and ’60s, Ƃirting with Hollywood and eventually becoming a kitsch icon. La Concha is an altar to her many faces where you can raise a glass to her memory. SURF HOUSE Guàrdia, 14 (Raval) IVÁN MORENO IVÁN GIMÉNEZ IVAN 93 302 41 18

Paddock are scathing about the latest mysterious; as the venue for a lunchtime set DISCOTECA MERLÍN so-called improvements: after all, what’s the menu, it’s a winning proposition. You never No, it has nothing to do with King Arthur or point of a biker bar if you can’t park your bike know if the hatch could suddenly open while Celtic mythology. It’s a nightclub made up to look like a medieval castle, with fake outside? you’re eating your noodles... battlements and dungeon-like interior. Just leave your wizard at home. Àvila, 142 …feel a little ‘Lost’ …rock out (El Parc & La Llacuna del Poblenou) In 2005, Carrer Pere IV, a diagonal slash If there’s one thing that deƁnes Chilean Alex 93 309 05 65 through the urban fabric of Poblenou, saw the Schoihet and his business partners, it’s that as opening of Bharma (Pere IV, 93), a bar well as being bar owners, they’re rock fans. AND THOSE THAT ARE NO MORE… dedicated to the TV series Lost, an event so Hardcore, perfectionist rock fans. Their bars Was it all a drunken hallucination, or was remarkable at the time that it became a mini are mini theme parks that exude love for the there really a ‘bar-museum’ at the top of Balmes called Los Vampiros? It didn’t sensation. As owner Rafael García explains, ‘I music and an eye for detail. They are also have Dracula-themed murals like the wanted to open a theme bar, but I wanted it to incredibly conducive to getting drunk. Bollocks Cerveceria Conde Dracula in : be original.’ He put it together during the (Ample, 46) is a metal bar ‘inspired by an instead there was an attempt to create a second season, before the hysteria struck. And abandoned subway station in Queens in the sinister, creepy atmosphere that in fact it had its moments of glory: ‘We used to show 1980s’. With hard rock and ’80s metal at full brought on Ɓts of the giggles. One place the episodes at the weekend. At Ɓrst it was me blast, ice-cold beers and apocalyptic décor – that deƁnitely existed was the medieval and a couple of friends, then news spread and grafƁti, stained black leather, a life-size version S&M restaurant Roissy (on Carrer dels Àngels), inspired by the Marquis de Sade. we ended up with more than a hundred people.’ of Iron Maiden’s mascot squatting on the toilet The masochistic side involved paying They endured the series Ɓnale with the same hanging from the ceiling – you feel a street through the nose for abominable food stoic desperation as the cruellest Barça- gang from The Warriors could barge through the (although I never saw how it was Madrid match. Those days of J. J. Abrams– door at any moment. Nevermind Raval (Tallers, pleasurable). And Padam-Padam, a induced anxiety are recalled by the tail of a 68) is even more radical: dedicated to cocktail bar dedicated to Édith Piaf and plane protruding from the vegetation, the skateboarding and street art, this skate bar French chanson on Carrer Rauric, closed a reproduction of the hatch, and the walls has a half pipe at the back, a perfect U where long time ago: it was a nice place, but deeply melancholy – you go to a bar to covered in papier-mâché rocks, as well as the you can bust out your best impression of Tony laugh or drown your sorrows, not to make signed photo from when Jorge Garcia, better Hawk. More than a thousand broken boards things worse. known in the series as Hurley, dropped by to adorn the walls and ceiling – they used to award visit. As a bar for an evening drink, it’s four beers to anyone who brought one in.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 27 Theatre critic Juan Carlos Olivares faces off the two musicals of the moment MAR I CEL SISTER ACT

The Phantom of the VS Philadelphia Sound, Opera was the biggest Disco Fever and Disney; hit of the genre when these are the elements Albert Guinovart that make up the wrote this, his first SCORES THAT personal soundtrack of musical. The result is COME FROM Alan Menken, composer operatic features with OPPOSITE ENDS for The Little Mermaid Puccinian overtones, OF THE WORLD and The Beauty and the and a historical drama Beast, as well as The that calls to mind the Little Shop of Horrors, a grandeur of Les Mis. Motown homage.

Local product. Catalonia Imported product. cultural brand. An Commercial Broadway adventure created brand. A production with by theatre company HOME-MADE franchises in Vienna, Dagoll Dagom, which MUSICAL OR Paris and Milan. Small would rather sink than FLEXIBLE adaptations are allowed become corporate. GLOBAL BRAND (who’s heard of Sister The first big Catalan Citroën in London?) musical demonstrates to encourage some an inherent vitality and sociocultural interest ambition. and even controversy.

This is a drama by This is a comedy. OK, Catalan-Canarian there’s a gun-toting playwright Àngel mafioso with murderous Guimerà. Christians WHEN THE SHOW intents, but his henchmen against Moors. Caught in GIVES YOU JUST are worse than the duo the middle are Saïd and WHAT YOU WERE trying to catch Macaulay Blanca, who fall in love EXPECTING Culkin. The really scary at the wrong time. He’s characters here are the a pirate; she’s a virginal nuns, although not quite captive. The tragic as much as Almodovar’s ending writes itself. in Dark Habits.

This production’s greatest When it’s exhausted its success was turning itself commercial efforts, this into a local tradition, like production will depart eating 12 grapes every WE APPLAUD Barcelona, never to New Year’s Eve. A stage THE NEW AND return. The show will phenomenon enjoying ADORE THE leave behind a good its second outing since CLASSICS memory but with no its 1988 premiere. return ticket. And we’ll Grandparents, parents say that it was fun while and children alike have it lasted but it isn’t enjoyed the ship’s roll. eternal love.

The original Mar i Cel The star of this version saw Àngels Gonyalons of Sister Act is the officially anointed as excellent Mireia Mambo a top-notch musical AN ACTRESS Bokele, but Àngels actress. With director WHO HAS Gonyalons plays the Ricard Reguant, she CROSSED BOTH mother superior and headed a glorious STAGES knows exactly how to get period for the genre in the most out of her part. performances inspired It’s a question of natural by the one-woman shows born talent. A fantastic ROGER BERRUEZO of Broadway stars. ‘comeback’. MIREIA MAMBO BOKELE FOTOS: IVÁN MORENO IVÁN FOTOS:

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 29 Shopping & Style 1 080x3! Local designers share the creations they’ll be showing at this month’s fashion festival. By Eugènia Sendra Photography Maria Dias

From February 2 to 5, Barcelona 2. RITA ROW will host the latest edition of its www.ritarow.com 080 Barcelona Fashion event, Imma Serra and Xènia Semis are where local designers and labels the heart and soul behind Rita will present their A/W 2015-16 Row, a small label that is making collections. Apart from the fashion its 080 catwalk debut this month giants who need no introduction (you can Ɓ nd their pieces on sale (Custo, Mango and Desigual), at Ivori, Mirallers, 7). Their there are many stand-out names versatile and comfortable basics such as Miriam Ponsa and Josep – that have a sporty touch but are Abril, Txell Miras and Sita Murt, still feminine – are their speciality, and emerging creators including while the graphic prints they Isometric and Pablo Eeoz. We employ give them a unique selling shine the spotlight on some of the point. They are growing (Rita Row designers who will be at 080 and is now sold in Belgium) and so are who you’ll also Ɓ nd in Barcelona their collections: in winter 2016, shops, so that you can discover they will launch XXL knitted more of their pieces and make the pieces, inspired by the look of tough decision about which to get youngsters from the ’70s. for your own wardrobes. 3. MANUEL BOLAÑO 1. BRAIN&BEAST www.manuelbolano.com www.brainandbeast.com Everyone who sees them has an Clothing that is fun, ironic and opinion about the designs of irreverent: this could be the Manuel Bolaño, both because of mantra guiding the Brain&Beast the feelings they evoke and of how collections, the collective label of they are made. He has a fondness Ángel Vilda, Verónica Raposo and for bold clients, likes to play with César Olivar. They have an volume and top-quality material, amazing shop in the Born and adores lacework; he often (Canvis Nous, 10), where they incorporates artisan details into sell their own sweatshirts, his collections, and this puts him sweaters and T-shirts, along halfway to prêt-a-porter and with Carner perfumes and haute couture (you can visit him at leather bags by Musa Bajo el his showroom-studio in the Árbol, amongst other items. Eixample, or purchase his They believe fashion has to be creations in Colmado Shop, well-made and accessible – Mirallers, 5). The fact that people hence their more-than-reasonable such as Diane Pernet or the price tags – and for the coming photographer and creative winter season are planning a director Bjorn Tagemose have paid Illustrator Brain&Beast ‘total look’, with him their respects and suggested FUN BASICS Fèlix Roca shoes and bags designed collaborations, is an unequivocal Brain&Beast will reprise its regularly in-house. The label has sign of Bolaño’s talent. The praise collaborates with collection of T-shirts dedicated the brand. ambition: Brain&Beast has has also encouraged him to move to pop icons, an essential piece just announced the launch of a into accessory design: his hats featuring their illustrated images. range for kids. and rucksacks are worth a look.

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] @eugeniasendra

2 3

Before their BOLAÑO 080 debut, Rita TOTAL LOOK Row were in The ‘Soixante- Paris for the Who’s Next fair. Quatorze’ pieces from the autumn- winter collection 2015-2016, is an explosion of colours and textures.

WEAR RITA ALL DAY LONG Originally from In Colmado, Figueres, the label you’ll Ɓ nd the teddy bears that supports local providers: appear at their next collection will Bolaño’s catwalk include sweaters from shows. independent knitters.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 31 Shopping & Style Paper treats PRINTED PLEASURES Private spaces open to the public. This is the premise behind the magazine Openhouse, a phenomenon on the rise. By Laia Beltran

are giving us with Openhouse magazine, a biannual publication that features private spaces around the world – in particular private houses – that occasionally open to the public. The main thrust of the magazine is inspired by their own experience, that of two friends who share a large flat in the centre of Barcelona ANDRÒMINA and which, from time to time, they Just off the presses is the first transform into an art gallery or a issue of this biannual magazine sushi party open to all. This is how showcasing the work of architects, their Openhouse Project gave rise designers, photographers and the to Openhouse magazine, published like. In English. €12. in English and, depending on the www.andromina.info. article, also in the native language of the interviewee.

There are still idealistic editors who have faith in paper publications The launch issue was paid for by crowdfunding. The second FUET. came out at the end of 2014, ‘Food and its peripheries’ are the marked by a mobbed party at focus of this twice-yearly magazine. Espacio 88 in Poblenou. The second number recently came Between the magazine’s pages, out, with Mr. Potato Head on the you’ll find many stories that cover. In Spanish and English. €10. deserved to be told. And www.fuetmagazine.com many photographs that MARIA DIAS deserved to be taken. Are print magazines a species at You travel to homes in risk of extinction in this voracious Morocco, Turkey and digital world we live in? Perhaps Italy, meeting not. There are still idealistic owners, discovering editors who have faith in paper what they organise publications and their powers of within their particular seduction. Turning pages, four walls, and which underlining phrases, saving them local places they on already overcrowded shelves... suggest are worth visiting. If it sounds like we’re talking about Your ticket to these privileged books, you might be on to destinations costs €16 and can something. There is nothing more wants to have an actual paper be bought in select bookshops VOLATA similar to a book than the new product in their hands that talks or through the magazine’s Cycling, journalism and culture. generation of print magazines, about plants, football or website. For the return leg, Volata is to cycling what Panenka where specialisation is a given gastronomy from a different name your own price. is to football. Published quarterly, and collecting a requisite. These perspective and with an the third issue is currently... periodicals exist in the first place alternative aesthetic. This is what OPENHOUSE MAGAZINE en route! In Spanish. €10. because someone out there Andrew Trotter and Mari Luz Vidal www.openhouse-magazine.com www.volatamag.cc

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Shopping & Style

Sniff out more fragrances at Sensory explosions Les Topettes, Regia, The Expert perfumers, designers and aesthetes have discovered the Cosmeticoh! and essential scent for each of us. By Eugènia Sendra JC Apotecari

FEMININE PERFUMES MASCULINE AROMAS SHALL WE SHARE?

SCENT OF TANGIER FROM HERE TO ITALY LITERARY AROMA Perfumer Jérôme Epinette created this fragrance with Created by maestro Daniel Josler, this has notes of Can you detect the cannabis in this homage hints of amber, pear and violet. €30. www.stories.com wood and black leather. €60. lacliniquefinestore.com to William Burroughs? €85. lesopettes.com

FRENCH ROSES JFK’S FAVOURITE ORGANIC ODOUR Hand-crafted perfume that distills poetry. €90. Historic fragrance that was smuggled out of Nazi- Abel bottles a spicy scent with a ‘green’ philosophy. labasilicagaleriaperfume.wordpress.com occupied France in a book. €135. eightandbob.com €120. labasilicagaleriaperfume.wordpress.com

FLOWERS OF BALI STOCKHOLM SCENT THE RETURN Jasmine and ylang-ylang permeate the fragrance Bergamot and lemon make up the basis of this Lang’s perfumes have been reissued, as Une Nuit à Bali. €75. www.jcapotecari.com fresh Byredo cologne. €140. lacomercial.info intoxicating as ever. €150. helmutlang.com

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 33 Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] Things to Do @junyjuliol A useful castle Nou Barris reclaims the ‘Castle’ of Torre Baró, an icon for the whole district. Maria Junyent climbs up to take a look

Until recently, the de Torre Ɓghting since 1983 to generate represented ‘an icon but also a building and it soon fell into Baró was an empty, crumbling brick interest in the history of the district, mystery’ to him, because of the disrepair. As Babu points out, the structure, a relic left to its fate at and to preserve its heritage. extent to which the rest of the city plan the Historical Archive the eastern end of the Collserola Josep Maria Babu has lived in seemed to have forgotten it. proposed at the time is what has ridge, in Nou Barris. Reclaimed as Nou Barris since 1968, and for 30 The castle, built in 1905, was to Ɓnally been adopted. a public space, today the building years has been part of the be part of a garden city, which was ‘Everything you can see from incorporates an exhibition hall and never completed. Later plans to or Montjuïc you can also a history centre, an information turn it into a hotel came to nothing. see from the Castle of Torre Baró,’ point for the Collserola Natural During the Civil War, Republican says Babu, recalling how, until Park, and a viewpoint over the city. The Castle troops took up residence, and recently, he’d worry every time he It is also the venue for courses on when the war ended it was left his car beside the tower at environmental education run by the of Torre Baró occupied by Nationalist soldiers. In night to enjoy the sea of city lights park – an important part of its new represented 1969 it was almost demolished as below – or how he couldn’t Ɓnd a identity, because the castle is the part of a city development scheme place to park on the day it was main entry point for park visitors on an icon but also that was halted by local opposition, re-opened, because so many foot or bike. The building has also a mystery and in the ’70s it became a secret people turned up. Looking to the been Ƃoodlit, so it doesn’t become meeting place for neighbourhood future, he wants the castle to invisible when night falls. volunteer team that runs the organisations and political groups. become even more accessible Walking tours of the Collserola district’s Historical Archive. He’s In 1989, as a result of pressure and, most of all, for it to continue ridge will be organised by the witnessed the area’s complete from locals and the Historical being useful. Barcelona History Museum and overhaul: the social movements, Archive, the city council gave it a the Roquetes-Nou Barris Historical the demolition of the factories, and facelift and built the viewpoint, but Castell de Torre Baró opens its Archive, the body that has been the story of the castle, which then couldn’t Ɓnd a use for the exhibition space every day.

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Popping back in time FOR THE KIDS

The history of Catalan pop goes under the microscope in this If you’re in town celebrating half term or enjoying a long weekend exhibition covering half a centur y of music. By Isaac Simon with the family, you’ll Ɓ nd lots of activities for everyone. company after a split with Edigsa, another music publisher. Although its doors closed in 1973, Concèntric produced 145 records – including the first featuring pop and rock sung in Catalan, by artist Pau Riba – and fostered a lasting legacy in popular music. The label, also responsible for opening up the possibility of having American and French WOOD CLOWNS standards performed in Clownfish take us on a magical Catalan, won a variety of journey into another dimension, awards during its run. In where we meet some of last both 1966 and 1967, the century’s great clowns. Traditional company won Ondas puppet show for the whole family. magazine’s Gran Premio Born Cultural Centre, Feb 7-8. del Disco award. In 1968, Lluís Llach, of Els Setze Jutges fame and still an icon for many Catalan pop music may not be founded in the ’60s. This is today, won an award for overly familiar to many beyond the followed by a look at the music’s Best Original Song from the IV Gran region’s borders, but here at home, influence on Catalan culture and Premi del Disc Català. it has a special place in the how its relationship with lyrics, Concèntric’s extensive library is population’s heart (and ears). graphic design and fashion now owned by the Library of Opening this month at Arts Santa changed over the years. Catalonia, after the company’s Mònica, the exhibition Popcèntric Concèntric was created in 1964 holdings were dissolved in 1990 showcases the development of to bring pop music and culture to a and the music claimed by the the local pop scene over the past Catalan audience, at a time when Catalan government. INDIANA STONES 50 years – and will also include live the Franco regime sought to A new way to experience Gaudí’s concerts from current songsters. maintain its grip on cultural Popcèntric fantastical La Pedrera. Become Opening the show is the story of imports. Josep Maria Espinas and Arts Santa Mònica. intrepid explorers for a day to Concèntric, a Catalan Ermengol Passola set up the From February 12 discover the building’s hidden corners and secrets. La Pedrera, Feb 14 & 28. The furthest reaches of the globe

When you think of your local gathered – an amazing testament council, you probably think of to the rich cultures the researchers taxes, rubbish collection and encountered. Now, some of these photos of someone cutting a pieces, which include religious ribbon at a school. What you relics, tools and clothing, can be might not think of is ethnological seen at the new Museum of and anthropological expeditions World Cultures, opening on across the globe. However, in the February 7. With close to 20th century, Barcelona City 40,000 items in its collection, Council funded a number of such and a splendidly historic BITXO BOT campaigns to Africa, Asia, South location, this is a worthy addition You have 90 minutes to make your and Central America, and Oceania. to Barcelona’s museum very own robot, using LEDs, motors The aim was to carry out Ɓ eldwork community. and recycled objects to create and collect data, photographs and vibrating, solar or drawing robot. audiovisual information, but in Museum of World Cultures Or come up with your own idea.

addition, hundreds of objects were MEB museuculturesmon.bcn.cat MIBA, Feb 21. 11.30am

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Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, de les Drassanes, s/n). L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). Wednesday 4 Day by day M: Drassanes (L3). 11.30am and 12.45pm. €4, €2.50 children. Cinema Information and sales: Monday 2 Tourist Information Points and On-board games – The Original language cinema at www.visitbarcelona.com pirate ship Al fresco the Filmoteca Make your own toy pirate ship and Screenings of classic movies. FREE This activity is free design a ‘Jolly Roger’ to Ƃy from the FREE BruumRumm! Filmoteca de Catalunya (Pl. de main mast. A spectacle of light and colour Salvador Seguí, 1-9). M: Liceu (L3) * The dates of league matches Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. outside the new Design Hub. DHUB & Paral·lel (L2, L3). Screenings: may be moved forward or back de les Drassanes, s/n). (Pl. de les Glòries Catalanes 37-38). Tue-Fri 5pm-10pm; Sat & Sun one day, depending on TV M: Drassanes (L3). Noon. €4.50. For M: Glòries (L1). Daily 9.30pm-11pm. 4.30pm-10pm. €4. €3 (reduced). broadcast schedules children 8-12 years old. /QTGKPHQYYYƁNOQVGECECV

Mask-making workshop Tour Sunday 1 Carnival is here, and it’s time for Tour fancy dress! Learn how to make The rooftops of Santa Football masks from recycled materials. Maria del Mar The Secret Pedrera (Av. Francesc Ferrer Guided tours to the top of this Delve into the corners of Gaudí’s * League fixture. FC i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; historic church for great city views. building with this night-time tour. Barcelona – Vila-real C.F. FGC). Every Sunday 10.30am to (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal Barça take on the ‘yellow 11.30am. Included with entrance Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Wed- submarine’ from Valencia region. fee to family show (see below). (every hour, last entry 4pm). Sat, Sat 7pm-10.30pm. Different Date and time TBC. More info: Sun, public holidays 11am to 5pm sessions in Catalan, Spanish and www.fcbarcelona.cat. Close your eyes (every hour, last entry, 4pm).€10 English during the evening. €30. (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Theatre and music come together (general). €8 (reduced). More Corts (L3). to tell a magical story for all the information and booking: Itinera senses, in which the audience Plus. Tel. 93 342 83 33. Thursday 5 helps to create soundscapes Kids using their bodies as percussion. Cinema Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Tuesday 3 Histories and mysteries Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya Xcèntric Festival. Three films Young sleuths study objects from (L1, L3; FGC). Every Sunday Tour by Robert Beavers the siege of 1714, which provide 12.30am. €13 adults, €8 children. American experimental Ɓlmmaker clues to unravel a 300-year old Guided tour of Liceu opera Beavers strictly controls showings historical mystery. house of his Ɓlms: Xcèntric presents his Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Tour Discover Barcelona’s glorious latest work, Listening to the Space 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) opera house, carefully restored in my Room (2013) alongside Still & (L1). Noon.€3. For FREE Guided tour of Poblenou after a devastating Ɓre in 1994. Light (1970/2001) and Sotiros six to 12 year olds. Cemetery (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). (1976-78/1996). Visit one of Barcelona’s historic Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). Clarinetarium +5 cemeteries. M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya Twelve different kinds of clarinet, (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 1st Palau de la Música| (L1, L3). 8pm. €4. €3 (reduced). plastic tubes, scissors and all and 3rd Sun 10.30am (Catalan) & Tour this emblematic building of kinds of tools bring 400 years of 12.30pm (Spanish). Catalan Modernisme, a UNESCO the clarinet to life. World Heritage Site since 1997. Tour CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Poblenou – productive city (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; What happens to the city’s Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours Torre | FGC). Noon. €6. factories and warehouses when 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 Tours of Gaudí’s modernista industry changes and moves on? (reduced). castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’ Can Poblenou continue to (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Discover how we can protect the provide a livelihood for its Sant Pau modernista (FGC). Spanish: Wed, Thur, Sat planet’s vulnerable ecosystems, residents? monument| noon. English: Wed, Sun 11am. from tropical forests to deserts. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Once a working hospital, this €16. €12.80 (reduced). CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya network of pavilions was designed Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat and (L1, L3). 10am. €6. Information by Lluís Domenech i Montaner. Sun 11am, noon, 1pm, 4pm and and registration: 93 306 41 00 or Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Friday 6 6pm. €4. €2 reduced. From 3 years. [email protected] Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau– Dos de Maig (L5). Tours in various Traditions Family planetarium FREE Visit the rooftop terrace languages; consult for schedule. Find out how sailors use of the CCCB Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm. Sat, Sun, FREE Santa Eulàlia and constellations and planets to See Barcelona from the top of this public holidays 10.30am-1.30pm. LlumBCN 2015 navigate. city centre building. €14. €9.80 (reduced). Santa Eulàlia is Barcelona’s

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Things to Do co-patron saint, and her feast day is technology and creativity. the excuse for a winter celebration, CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). with traditional street processions M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 7-8 and activities aimed at families. Feb. 12pm and 4pm. For children LlumBCN is a festival celebrating six and above. light and illumination. Various venues around the city. 6, 7, 8 and Operation Gaudí 12 Feb. www.santaeulalia.bcn.cat. Gaudí’s work still holds many secrets. Use high-tech methods to FREE LlumBCN inauguration Ɓnd clues in a special workshop To mark the start of this year’s that includes a visit to La Pedrera’s LlumBCN, castellers create a very famous rooftop. special illuminated human tower. (Provença 261). M: Diagonal (L3, Ajuntament de Barcelona (Pl. Sant L5) and Provença (FGC). 10am. Jaume). M: Liceu (L3), Jaume I (L4). €8.50. For children 7-13 years. 8.15pm. www.santaeulalia.bcn.cat Guided visit to MIBA museum and family invention workshop Saturday 7 ‘5 ideas, 5 inventions’ Kids unleash their inner inventor to Cinema Ɓnd Ɓve solutions for Ɓve problems in a creative workshop. FREE BCNegra – Apartado de MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). correos 1001 5pm. €10. Recommended for Fifties Spanish noir Ɓlm, set in children 6-12 years. More info and Barcelona, shown to mark the start booking: tickets@mibamuseum. of BCNegra crime Ɓction week. com or call 93 332 79 30. MNAC (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 7pm. Special events

Kids FREE Festival of Laia at CaixaForum Wood clowns Free entry to all exhibitions and Traditional wooden clown puppets special activities at Caixaforum (and wooden clownƁsh) in an to mark Santa Eulàlia. homage to the great clowns of the (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, last century. 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: 7-8 Feb. Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de Triomf (L1). 6pm. €5. FREE A sensational Laia! Celebrate the Festes de Santa The Trojan War + 5 Eulàlia with hands-on science Love, ambition, glory, honour: the activities for the whole family. story of the Trojan War is retold CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: using puppets and animation. Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 7-8 Feb. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat 5.30pm. Sun noon. €6. Traditions

FREE Sensational FREE Santa Eulàlia 2015 An immersive world of sensations, See Fri 6. Various venues around as a white soft play space Ɓlls with the city. 6, 7, 8 and 12 Feb. www. projected images, sounds and santaeulalia.bcn.cat. colourful costumes. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). 7-8 Feb. Sunday 8 11am-1pm and 4pm-6pm. For children from 18 months to 5 years. Cinema

FREE Digital luthier Xcèntric Festival. Admantine Build your own instrument from bridges wood and simple electronics in a Experimental Ɓlmmaker Gregory workshop that blends music, Markopolous Ɓlmed Warhol and

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 37 Things to Do other New York Ɓgures of the ’60s Drassanes, history of life Second Journey (To Uluru) (1981) to reinterpret Thoreau’s A dramatised guided tour brings to and Paul Winkler’s Bark Rind Traditions translation of Prometheus Bound. life Barcelona’s medieval Royal (1977). CCCB (Montalegre, 5). Shipyards, with tales of kings, sea CCCB (Montalegre, 5). FREE Carnival procession 2015 M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya captains, stone masons, M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Districts and associations all over (L1, L3). 6.30pm. €4. €3 (reduced). armourers and soldiers. Catalunya (L1, L3). 8pm. €4. €3 Barcelona hold carnival parades, Barcelona Maritime Museu (Av. de (reduced). each presided over by one of King les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes Carnestoltes’s seven Football (L3). 11am. €10, €7 children. Original language ambassadors, representing the cinema at the Filmoteca seven historic towns that make up * League fixture. RCD See Wed 4. (Pl. de Salvador the city. Around the city. Times Espanyol – València CF Monday 9 Seguí, 1-9). M: Liceu (L3), TBC. Espanyol face one of Spain’s Paral·lel (L2, L3). Book your www.bcn.cat/carnaval. biggest sides. Date and time TBC. Tour favourite More info: www.rcdespanyol.com. restaurants at Estadi Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Palau de la Música Traditions timeout.com/ Kids Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de See Tue 3. (Palau de la Música, barcelona Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Riera. 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). FREE Arrival of the Time travellers Carnival King and masked Family groups of up to Ɓve Sant Pau modernista monument| ball people delve into the Born’s past, Kids See Tue 3. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant King Carnestoltes is the unruly reconstructing houses, streets and Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant spirit of carnival personiƁed. His the lives of locals. Each group Wood clowns Pau – Dos de Maig (L5). arrival marks the ofƁcial start of needs some way to take photos. See Sat 7. Born CC (Pl. Comercial, Barcelona’s carnival. He begins Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) his reign with a street procession Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de & Arc de Triomf (L1). Noon. €5. Tuesday 10 through the Ribera district, with Triomf (L1). 6pm. €3. For children masks, costumes and dancing. 6-12 years. Family art Al fresco Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Guided family visits to Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc Indiana Stones: let’s explore! CaixaForum’s current exhibitions. FREE BruumRumm! de Triomf (L1). 6.30pm-8pm. Daring explorers discover the (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, A spectacle of light and colour. hidden corners of La Pedrera in an 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). DHUB (Pl. de les Glòries Catalanes, FREE Santa Eulàlia 2015 architectural adventure that takes Every Sun 12pm. €2. For children 37-38). M: Glòries (L1). Daily See Fri 6. Various venues around in the whole of Gaudí’s building. seven and above. 9.30pm-11pm. the city. 6, 7, 8 and 12 Feb. www. (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) santaeulalia.bcn.cat and Provença (FGC). 10am.€8.50. Eyes of water For children from 5-13. This workshop explores underwater Tour photography, building a camera Friday 13 obscura to help understand how we The rooftops of Sunday 15 can create images under the sea. Santa Maria del Mar Cinema Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. See Mon 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, Cinema de les Drassanes, s/n). M: 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Original language Drassanes (L3). 12pm. €5. For cinema at the Filmoteca Xcèntric Festival. Absences and children from six. See Wed 4. (Pl. de Salvador (im)possibilities Wednesday 11 Seguí, 1-9). M: Liceu (L3), Show of experimental Irish Ɓlm Paral·lel (L2, L3). curated by the Experimental Film Traditions Tour Club. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, FREE Santa Eulàlia 2015 Liceu opera house Tour L3). 6.30pm. €4. €3 (reduced). See Fri 6. Various venues around See Tue 3. (La Rambla 51-59). M: the city. 6, 7, 8 and 12 Feb. www. Liceu (L3). Torre Bellesguard santaeulalia.bcn.cat. See Thu 5. (Bellesguard, 6-9). Sport The Secret Pedrera M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). See Wed 4. (Provença, 261-265). M: Barcelona half marathon Tour Diagonal (L3-L5) & Provença (FGC). In 2014, Kenyan runner Florence Saturday 14 Kiplagat set a new women’s world FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc record at this event: this year she Cemetery Thursday 12 Dance–swing wants to beat her own record, on Visit Barcelona’s hillside an urban street circuit that cemetery. Cementiri de Montjuïc Cinema FREE Want to dance? attracts around 14,000 (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Grab your partners for this participants every year. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Xcèntric Festival – Experimental swing session at the MNAC. Starting point: Passeig Pujades. Sun 11am (Catalan) and 11.15am Australian films (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, 8.45am. M: Arc de Triomf (L1). (Spanish). Arthur and Corinne Cantrill’s The L3; FGC). 4pm-5.45pm. www.mitjabarcelona.com

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Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Santa Maria Football Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de Tour del Mar Triomf (L1). 4.30pm-8pm. See Mon 2. (Plaça de Santa * League fixture. FC FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Barcelona – Levant UD Cemetery Another chance to see the super- Kids See Sun 1. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Sant Pau modernista team in action. Date and time TBC. Llacuna (L4). monument| More info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. On-board games: See Tue 3. Hospital Sant Pau Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Wind power Carmel & Nou Barris. From the (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: (L3). Make your own balloon-powered right to shelter to the right to M: Sant Pau – Dos de Maig (L5). boat, and compete in a regatta to the city Ɓnd the fastest one. Walking tour of two districts that Traditions Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. emerged from shanty towns on Tuesday 17 de les Drassanes, s/n). M: steep terrain. Self-built, their FREE Hat, mask and dance Drassanes (L3). 12pm. €4.50. For struggle to become an ofƁcial part Al fresco workshops children from 6-12 years old. of the city teaches many lessons How did Barcelonans dress up and and presents ongoing challenges. FREE BruumRumm! celebrate carnival in 1700? Find Trip to the bottom CCCB (Montalegre, 5). A spectacle of light and colour. out at this family workshop. of the sea M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya DHUB (Pl. de les Glòries Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: The MMB’s digital planetarium (L1, L3). 10am. €6. Info: 93 306 41 Catalanes, 37-38). M: Glòries Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de simulates the slow descent of a 00 or [email protected]. (L1). Daily 9.30pm-11pm. Triomf (L1). 12pm-2pm. diving chamber into the habitats of turtles, sardines and FREE La Taronjada dolphins.Barcelona Maritime Monday 16 Tour Fighting breaks out in the streets – Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, don’t worry, it’s all part of the Born’s s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 11.30am Tour Liceu operahouse carnival celebrations. The weapons and 12.45pm. €4, €2.50 children. See Tue 3. (La Rambla 51-59). are orange balloons and confetti. For children from three. The rooftops of M: Liceu (L3).

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(La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Wednesday 18 Saturday 21 Kids www.liceubarcelona.cat.

Tour Kids Carnival – Adventures of Bornet and Borneta Thursday 26 The Secret Pedrera Carnival – Adventures of The Born Centre’s resident See Wed 4. (Provença, 261). M: Bornet and Borneta puppets discover the magic of Cinema Diagonal (L3-L5) & Provença (FGC). The Born Centre’s resident puppets carnival, as the city dresses up for discover the magic of carnival, as the parade.. Born CC (Pl. Comercial, Xcèntric Festival. Soleil Ö the city dresses up for the parade. 12) M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Med Hondo’s 1969 debut is a Traditions Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). revolutionary work of post-colonial Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de criticism by one of the most original FREE Burial of the Sardine Triomf (L1). 6pm. €5. Pirate academy Ɓlmmakers on the African scene. Mock funeral procession with Iron Fist the pirate is setting sail in CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat black-clad mourners, held on Ash Let’s be architects search of treasure, but he can’t do (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). 8pm. Wednesday to mark the end of Architectural model-making for it alone! Do you want to join the €4. €3 (reduced). Carnival and the beginning of kids: build a scale model of Gaudí’s crew? Barcelona Maritime Museum Lent. Various venues. school at the Sagrada Família, (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). www.bcn.cat using a range of materials. M: Drassanes (L3). 12pm. €4.50. Sport La Pedrera (Provença, 261). M: For children from 6-12 years. Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença Formula One Test Days Thursday 19 (FGC). 10am. €8.50. For children Trip on the Beagle See Thur 19. Circuit de Barcelona- from 5-13 years. Charles Darwin’s voyage recreated Catalunya (Camí Mas Moreneta, Cinema in an immersive Ɓlm projected Montmeló). Montmeló (RENFE). Bitxo Bot inside the MMB’s planetarium. Xcèntric Festival. Images Use motors, LEDs and recycled Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. without end materials to build simple de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Friday 27 Tribute to German director Harun robots: assemble circuits and Drassanes (L3). 11.30am and Farocki, who died last July, with solder parts together to make 12.45pm. €4 adults, €2.50 kids. Cinema three Ɓlms that question them come to life. cinematographic representation MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). Original language cinema at the from different ethical and 11.30am. €15. Recommended for Tours Filmoteca aesthetic viewpoints. children 8-12 years. Info and See Wed 4. (Pl. de Salvador Seguí, CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat booking: tickets@mibamuseum. FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc 1-9). M: Liceu (L3), Paral·lel (L2, L3). (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). 8pm. com or call 93 332 79 30. Cemetery €4. €3 (reduced). See Sun 8. (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L2; FGC). Tour Sunday 22 Sport Torre Bellesguard Cinema Monday 23 See Thu 5. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Formula One Test Days Tibidabo (FGC). Big crowds are guaranteed as F1 Xcèntric Festival. Norman Tour teams test their cars. McLaren and Pierre Hérbert – Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya Question of Affliation The rooftops of Saturday 28 (Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Canadian Ɓlmmaker Hérbert is a Santa Maria del Mar Montmeló (RENFE). 19-22 Feb and gifted disciple of animator and See Mon 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, Kids 26 Feb-1 Mar. www.circuitcat.com director McLaren: in this selection 1). M: Jaume I (L4). of their Ɓlms, he traces the Guided visit to MIBA museum relationships between their works. and family invention Friday 20 CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat Tuesday 24 workshop (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). ‘The Egg Challenge’: can you Tour 6.30pm. €4. €3 (reduced). Tour build an invention that will allow an egg to fall 1.70m without Palau de la Música Palau de la Música breaking? See Tue 3. (Palau de la Música, 4-6) Football See Mon 5. (Palau de la Música, MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 4-6) M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 5pm. €10. Recommended for * League fixture. FC children 10-14 years. Info and Barcelona – Màlaga CF booking: tickets@mibamuseum. Cinema Prepare for goals as Barça face Wednesday 25 com or 93 332 79 30. the Andalusian club. Original language Date and time TBC. More info: Tour Indiana Stones: let’s explore! cinema at the Filmoteca www.fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou See Sat 14. La Pedrera See Wed 4. (Pl. de Salvador Seguí, (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Liceu opera house (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal 1-9). M: Liceu (L3), Paral·lel (L2, L3). Corts (L3). See Tue 3. (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC).

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Architecture tour: Mon-Fri, 9.30am & 10am. Tour the buildings and grounds of 508 63 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue- €14. Thirty-minute tour: €6. Hospital Sant Pau, one of the Thu 9am-2am; Fri 9am-4am; Basílica de la Check times and info: www. world’s largest Sat 9am-5am; Sun 9am- Sagrada Família liceubarcelona.cat. monuments, and Lluís midnight. €11. €6.25 (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Visit one of the world’s great Domènech i Montaner’s most (reduced). Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 opera houses: discover the important work, recently restored Built for the Barcelona 60. Oct-Mar: 9am-6pm. Guided impressive concert hall and and opened to the public. Exposition of 1929 by tour/with audio guide: €19.50. exclusive private rooms that modernista architect Puig i Barcelona’s most famous make this one of Barcelona’s Torre Cadalfach, Poble Espanyol is landmark, begun by Antoni Gaudí most emblematic buildings. Bellesguard an open-air museum on in 1891 and still unƁnished to (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Montjuïc with replicas of this day. Ticket sales help fund La Pedrera Tibidabo (FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. traditional streets, squares the ongoing construction of the (Provença, 261–265). M: Nov-Mar: Tue-Sun 10am-3pm. and buildings from all over most popular tourist attraction Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 Closed Mon. Panoramic tour: €7 Spain. Regularly used to host in Spain. 138. Nov 3-Mar 2: 9am-6.30pm. (audio guide to exterior + live music events. Last admission: 6pm. €20.50. remains of Martin the Humane’s Basílica de €16.50 (reduced). palace + audiovisual centre). Gaudí Experience Santa Maria del Pi Many Barcelona residents Guided tour: €16 (tower exterior (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). T. (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) + consider this building to be and interior + roof terrace 93 285 44 40. Nov-Mar: 9am- Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. Gaudí’s true masterpiece. In access). In English, Mon-Sat 6pm. €9. €7.50 (reduced). Nov 11–Apr 7: Mon-Sat 10am- fact, some of its apartments 11am. In Spanish Mon, Wed, Fri A fascinating interactive 6pm. Sun 4pm-7pm. €4. €3 are still private homes. The roof noon. In Catalan Tue, Thu, Sat journey that uses 4-D (reduced). Guided tour terrace represents modernista noon. technology to take you inside (including belltower): €12. €8 architecture at its Ɓnest. Discover the modernista castle Gaudí’s creative universe. A (reduced). that Antoni Gaudí built at the new way to discover the Visit one of Barcelona’s Palau Güell foot of Tibidado mountain. architect and his world. grandest Gothic churches, and (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: enjoy the views from its Drassanes (L3) + Barceloneta Leisure Tibidabo Amusement Park belltower. (L4). T. 93 472 57 75. Nov-Mar: (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm. Last Aire de Barcelona, Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça Casa Batlló admission: 4.30pm. Closed Mon Arab Baths Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (L7, (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de except public hols. €12. €8 (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: FGC) + Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 (reduced). Barceloneta (L4) + Jaume I + Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50 Built by Antoni Gaudí in the late (L4). T. 93 295 57 43. Mon-Fri: 211 79 42. More info: www. (reduced). Last admission: 8pm. 19th century, this palace ƁTUVGPVT[CONCUVGPVT[ tibidabo.cat. Sky Walk: Sat and More info: www.casabatllo.cat. belonged to his principal between 10pm and midnight. Sun 11am-5pm. €12.70. The sensuality and harmony of its patron. A visit to the roof Sat, Sun and days before Children measuring less than interior, combined with Gaudí’s terrace is highly recommended. public holidays: last entry 120cm, €7.80. Amusement use of colours, shapes and light between midnight and 2am. park: from Feb 28-Mar 22, make this a must-see for Palau de la More info: www. 12pm-7pm. €28.50. Children admirers of the architect’s work. Música Catalana airedebarcelona.com. under 120cm, €10.50. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: These Arab baths revive the With over 100 years of history, Gaudí Crypt Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 ancient tradition of bathing as Tibidabo is one of the oldest at Colònia Güell 72 00. Daily 10am-3.30pm. a form of relaxation, in a theme parks in the world, (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma €18. €11 (reduced). Under 10s gorgeous setting. featuring classic rides, old de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, free. Step inside one of the favourites and brand-new L3) + FGC (S4, S8, S33): Colònia most beautiful Art Nouveau Barcelona attractions with spectacular Güell station. T. 93 630 58 07. buildings in the world, architect Urban Forest views over the city. Nov-Apr: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Sat, Sun, public hols 10am-3pm. ornate concert hall, a UNESCO Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 €9 (incl. audio guide). €7.50 World Heritage Site. 117 34 26. Nov-Mar: Sat, Sun (, s/n). M: (reduced). and public holidays 10am-3pm. Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ Gaudí’s hidden treasure is a Sant Pau, modernista €11-€27 (prices vary Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 UNESCO World Heritage Site monument depending on age and circuit). 45. Jan 1-Mar 29: 10am- inside Colònia Güell, a planned (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). Get some high-adrenaline 5.30pm. €19.90. Children (ages textile factory and residential M: Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. exercise in an urban adventure 3-12): €11.95. area just 20 minutes outside Nov-Mar: Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm. park with over 30 attractions, One of the city’s best-loved Barcelona. Sun, public hols 10am-2.30pm. including zip lines, bungee attractions, which has been Self-guided tour: €8. €5.60 jumping, trampolines and more. open for more than 100 years. Gran Teatre (reduced). Guided tour: €14. Nowadays it’s home to more del Liceu €9.80 (reduced). First Sunday of Poble Espanyol than 2,000 animals, (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu month and under 16s free. More (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, representing some 315 (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided info: www.santpaubarcelona.org. 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 species.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 41 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] The Arts @eugeniasendra Hitting the right note ALSO APPEARING Irish singer-songwriter James Vincent McMorrow has found his true voice, as a falset to electronic crooner. By Marta Salicrú

Ƃ exibility of the electronica and hip hop sound spectrum. ‘I like the songs of the Ɓ rst album, but I made it with the instruments, time and money I had, which meant limitations,’ he says. ‘If I was going to make Early in the Morning again tomorrow, I JOLIE HOLLAND would do it differently, whereas Texan Holland arrives in Barcelona Post Tropical would be exactly the with six albums to her name, the same.’ Post Tropical is the record latest of which, Wine Dark Sea that he would have liked to make (2014), surprised critics with its Ɓ rst: it’s what was playing inside rawness, marking a new direction his head but he couldn’t share it for the musician. (Feb 24) with those of us on the outside because of that lack of resources. ‘I’m always guided by the sounds I hear in my head, and I use the necessary instruments to make them materialise,’ he explains. ‘Often my ideas are difƁ cult to articulate, or when I play them they don’t sound as amazing as I wanted. So I have to try a new approach. If I have a sound in my head, I go after it until it sounds like it should. I don’t always make ESTRELLA MORENTE it, but sometimes it works.’ Inaugurating this year’s Guitar BCN And the falsetto? ‘When I festival, the flamenco cantaour started composing, I was already appears with guitarist Niño Josele doing it in falsetto. It’s how I work to present Amar en Paz (2014), and has always been my best their Spanish-language tribute to voice. So it made sense to sing the Brazilian music. (Feb 13) songs as I’d written them, without adaptation.’ With this as his main JAMES VINCENT MCMORROW JAMES tool, it means his natural voice can The cover of Post Tropical (2014), album’s actual songs, which are be an expressive instrument. James Vincent McMorrow’s intimate, multi-layered, textured ‘When I use it, the sound is second album, features a and sung in falsetto. aggressive and catches people’s Ƃ amenco and a palm tree. But in They also have little to do with attention,’ he says about playing the distance on the Hawaiian the acoustic compositions on his live. ‘I like to use the voice as a shirt–like image is a polar bear debut, Early in the Morning (2010, weapon, but you have to do it staring out from an icy slope. It’s reissued in 2011). Rediscovering intelligently. You can’t let it all go at not an allegory about climate him as an electronic crooner on once. When I can create nuances change, it’s a provocation. ‘With Post Tropical must have deƁ ed with my voice, it’s the place I want this disc, I was motivated to do more than one listener’s to be as a singer. Because above MIGUEL CAMPELLO something different from what expectations. ‘With my Ɓ rst record, all else, I’m a singer.’ Star of the Spanish flamenco-rock people might expect,’ says the a lot of the discussions revolved scene with Madrid group Elbicho, Irish musician. The Ƃ amingo and around the fact of me being a guy James Vincent McMorrow plays in the past four years Campello the bear have as much to do with with a beard and a guitar,’ he says. at this year’s Guitar BCN festival has embarked on a successful each other as the tropical sound He never wanted to be an acoustic on February 18. Teatre Barts. solo career with a trilogy of albums that the title suggests and the musician, and admires the www.theproject.es already released. (Feb 21)

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A family of favourites Animation masters Pixar have become the rulers of the cartoon universe, with their memorable characters and grown-up humour. By Hannah Pennell

Picture the Christmas scene: an with universal appeal has excited four-and-a-quarter-year- brought its rewards to Pixar old settles down to watch her during three decades of new DVD of The Little operations – 27 Oscars, 11 Mermaid. Grandparents and Grammys, seven Golden parents reluctantly join the Globes and $8.5 billion viewing, with grandma earned. But perhaps most nervously whispering, ‘Doesn’t importantly, Pixar has won she die at the end?’. The the adoration of audiences viewing starts Ɓ ne, with cutely of all ages for ubiquitous imagined Ɓ sh, a pretty characters that are independent redhead and some impressively unirritating, catchy tunes. But then the Sea such as Woody, Nemo Witch appears, and the young and Lightning McQueen. girl is suddenly scared. Someone CaixaForum pays tribute grabs the remote and switches to these achievements over to Monsters, Inc., playing in by bringing this itinerant the afternoon slot of the PIXAR DISNEY/ IMAGES: Pixar: 25 years exhibition, created by the seasonal schedules. For the next of animation MoMA in New York City, to 90 minutes, everyone has a CaixaForum Barcelona for a three- laugh-Ɓ lled good time. Peace February 6–May 3 month run. At the show, and joy are restored. And you’ll discover the that’s why computer importance of non-digital art animation company Pixar methods, such as hand drawing, has all but cornered the painting and sculpture, to market on cinematic family their work, along with entertainment. A succinct storyboards, models and story arc, grown-up wit and explanations about the apealing monsters. The baddies technology used to are bad, but no one is frightened. bring the Pixar family This talent for creating to life, to our screens feature-length and, without doubt, animations to our hearts.

A walk through the works of Josep Llimona

‘Monument to Doctor Robert’ and melancholy figures (Plaça Tetuan) or ‘Disconsolate’ (‘Adolescent or Ingénue?’, 1924), Museum of Modern European Art (Ciutadella park), which calls to religious representations (‘First Until March 1 mind Rodin’s ‘La Danaïde’, the Communion’, 1902) and portraits female body with perfect contours (‘Industrialist from Terrassa’, To start, an observation: when emerging from the marble. This 1892). Stop in front of the different visiting this exhibition about show at the MEAM seeks to versions of the same piece, to see sculptor Josep Llimona, one is restore some recognition to how the contours and forms vary filled, from the first piece to the Llimona, claimed to have been according to whether it’s created in last, with a sense of déjà vu, of unjustly forgotten. Sixty pieces are wood, marble, plaster or bronze: seeing forms immediately familiar. on display, some for the first time. ‘Modesty’ (1891), ‘Nude Woman’ And it’s because works by Llimona It is a tour through the iconography (1918) and ‘Youth’ or ‘The Head of (1864-1934), considered a key that defines him, in drawings, Hair’ (1924). –Aina Mercader figure in Catalan modernisme, can sculptures, funerary monuments, be seen across the city: ‘The architecture, jewellery... There are FOOTNOTE The exhibition closes Forger’ (Plaça Catalunya), numerous female nudes, delicate with the death mask of Llimona.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 43 The Arts

L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Pop Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Folk – Rock Music Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €25-€28. Tweedy Projecte Mut Jeff Tweedy, lead singer of US Bach in Barcelona The Ibizan folk group led by Joan Sunday 1 alternative rockers Wilco, tours the Every Monday and Wednesday Barbé and David Serra present home-made pop-Americana sound lunchtime, cellist Jurgen van Win their latest album Idò. Classical – Children of Sukierae, Ɓrst album from his performs Bach’s Suites in a 11th- Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, new outƁt Tweedy, with son century Benedictine monastery. 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) Ma, me, mi... Mozart! Spencer on drums. Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp & Arc de Triomf (L4). 8pm. €10. String, woodwind, brass – even L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel a saw – bring Mozart to life in a (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L2,L3). Mon & Wed 1pm. €16. colourful show designed to give (L1). 9pm. €20-€50. [email protected]. Gospel young and old a new T. 679 305 718. perspective on the great I Cycle of Gospel and Spirituals composer. Tuesday 3 Spanish guitar masters at MEAM L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Russian guitarist Ekaterina Spirituals classic and modern, Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Classical Záytseva, who is now based in from Catalan group Mas Gospel, Marina (L1). 10am, 12pm and Barcelona, is considered one of led by Carmen Avila Gorozpe. 5.30pm. €10. Under-1s, free Quartet Qvixote the best of her generation. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art The Catalan string quartet led by Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Symphony now! Daniel Cubero perform Haydn’s Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Jaume I (L4). Thur 8.30pm. €14 Comedy meets classical music SWCTVGVKP$ƂCVOCLQTQRPQ, [email protected]. (includes entrance to the museum as the Vallès Symphony Arvo PÀrt’s Summa and Janacek’s T. 679 305 718. and a glass of cava). Orchestra perform an string quartet no. 1. unconventional concert, in which Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau the rivalry between the de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Jazz Friday 6 conductor and the Ɓrst violin (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €12. threatens the show. Jazz concerts at Milano Singer- Palau de la Música Catalana Guitar stars Cocktail Bar (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Enjoy an intimate candlelit concert Live blues, jazz, boogie-woogie Festival Barnasants: El Niño Urquinaona (L1, L4). 10.30am and a glass of wine with|Ksenia and swing in an old-school city- de la Hipoteca and el Kauka and 12.30pm. €11. Axelroud and Joan Benejam. centre cocktail bar. Two proliƁc singer-songwriters of Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: a generation born in the ’80s 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double and with plenty to say, they take Flamenco 9pm. €23. session). Cover charge €8. to the stage, armed only with guitars and microphones. Flamenco show L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Passion and duende with bailaors Flamenco Flamenco Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Sergio Aranda and Marivi Marina (L1). 9pm. €12. Granado, in an intimate venue Show at the Palacio del Flamenco nights at Palau that has welcomed some of the Flamenco Dalmases biggest names in Ƃamenco. With a full cast of guitarists, Live Ƃamenco in the evocative Classical Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, singers and dancers, and the surroundings of the courtyard of a 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, rhythms of the ECLÏP, heels and stately 17th-century palace. Pixar in Concert 9.30pm, 10.30pm. €10 (on palms, this live show is a (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). A treat for lovers of animation: the the door). €8 (web). journey into the world of Mon-Thur 7.30pm. Fri-Sun 7.30pm Barcelona Symphony and Ƃamenco. and 9.30pm. €20. Catalonia National Orchestra play (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, along to high-deƁnition projections Monday 2 FGC). Daily 6.40pm, 8.30pm & of Pixar’s hit Ɓlms, including the Toy 9.40pm. Options: show only; show + Thursday 5 Story trilogy, Cars, Finding Nemo, Flamenco one drink; show + different menu Wall-E and The Incredibles. options. €45-€160. More info: www. Classical L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: The most authentic RCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & contemporary flamenco at Sir András Shiff Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €29. Tablao Cordobés World-renowned pianist Sir András Live Ƃamenco in one of Barcelona’s Wednesday 4 Shiff performs a varied programme FREE From Bach to Piazzola most emblematic tablaos, with including Mozart’s sonata no. 17 in Adrián Albadalejo (euphonium) and performances from some of the Classical $ƂCVOCLQT, KV 570 and Ivet Frontela (piano) play music by most exciting new names on the Beethoven’s sonata no. 31 in B Bach, Bridge, Rachmaninoff, contemporary Ƃamenco scene. The cello of Sol Gabetta OCLQT|QR. Castérède and Piazzolla. (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) Argentinean cello superstar Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, & Liceu (L3). Daily 6.30pm, 8.15pm, Gabetta offers a recital of works de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) 10pm and 11.30pm. €44-€78.50. by Beethoven and Chopin. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €21-€60. & Arc de Triomf (L4). 8pm.

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popular Catalan folk dance, which Baroque repertoire, countertenor Saturday 7 was brought into the classical Opera Scholl engages with the world of tradition by composers like Juli Lieder, performing works by Haydn, Classical Garreta, Eduard Toldrà and Norma Mozart, Schubert and Brahms with Joaquim Serra. Vincenzo Bellini’s great bel canto pianist Tamar Halperin. Pixar in Concert Gran Teatre del Liceu (La opera was the third to be staged Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, See Fri 6. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). at the Liceu in 1847, and its 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 9, 11, 12, 14 M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) 8pm. €18-€117. popularity – Wagner considered it and 17 Jan. 8pm. €8-€70. & Marina (L1). 7pm. €29. the perfect musical tragedy – has not waned since. Up-and-coming Guitar stars Tchaikovsky’s Sixth ‘Pathétique’ Sunday 8 stage director Kevin Newbury See Tue 3. Victor Pablo Pérez conducts the stresses the ritual aspects of the Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Vallès Symphony Orchestra, with Classical drama, set in Roman Gaul, where 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). soloists Natalia Sokolovskaia high priestess Norma has broken 9pm. €23. (piano) and Carlos Megías Purcell’s ‘Dido & Aeneas’ her vow of chastity with Roman (trumpet) in performances that Henry Purcell’s Baroque pro-consul Pollione, only to be include Arvo PÀrt’s|Cantus in masterpiece was one of the Ɓrst stricken by jealousy when she Wednesday 11 OGOQT[QH$GPLCOKP$TKVVGP, and English operas, and recounts the discovers she has a rival. Tchaikovsky’s symphony no. 6 in B love of Dido, queen of Carthage, for Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51- Classical minor, op. 74, ‘Pathetique’. the Trojan hero Aeneas. 59). M: Liceu (L3). 6pm. €11-€268. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Bach in Barcelona de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona See Wed 4. Monestir de Sant Pau (L1, L4). 7pm. €18-€68. (L1, L4). 6pm €28. Monday 9 del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Guitar stars Pixar in Concert Guitarist Robert Majure performs a See Fri 6. Classical varied programme of Ƃamenco and L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Jazz classical works, including Rodrigo’s (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina Purcell’s Dido & Aeneas Aranjuez ‘Ma Pensee’. (L1). 11am. €29. See Sun 8. Palau de la Música Jazz concerts at Milano Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Cocktail Bar 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €23. Rachmaninov piano concert Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €28. See Wed 4. Ronda Universitat, 35). Probably the most popular piano M: Catalunya (L1, L3). concerto of all times, performed by Classical – Children Silvia Mkrtchian with the Barcelona Flamenco Municipal Band with conductor Thursday 12 Tubes and tubas Salvador Brotons. Show at the Palacio del Award-winning composer Albert L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Flamenco Folk Guionvart has created this unique (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina See Tue 3. (Balmes, 139). M: children’s concerto for two tubas, (L1). 6pm. €14. Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily El Pont d’Arcalís one euphonium and a range of 6.40pm, 8.30pm & 9.40pm. From the tiny Pyrenean principality instruments made from recycled Guitar stars of Andorran, hear traditional folk materials. See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church songs with modern lyrics. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Opera Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & L3). 7pm. €23. 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4) Marina (L1). 5pm and 6.30pm. Norma and Arc de Triomf (L4). 8pm. €10. €10. Under-1s, free. See Sun 8. Gran Teatre del Liceu Classical - Children (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Connect with the Symphony 8pm. €11-€268. Jazz Orchestra Tubes and tubas An orchestral workshop with the See Sat 7. Sid Griffin. The Trick is to Vallès Symphony Orchestra, aimed L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Tuesday 10 Breathe at enabling parents and children to Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & With The Long Ryders, GrifƁn shook engage with classical music. Marina (L1). 10.30am, noon and Classical up deƁnitions of folk, rock and Palau de la Música Catalana 5.30pm. €10. Under-1s, free. country in the ’80s. The Trick is to (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Josep Maria Colom, piano Breathe showcases his inimitable Urquinaona (L1, L4). 5.30pm. €11. Works by de Falla, Mompou, grasp of American traditions and Debussy, Wagner and Liszt. openness to new ideas. Flamenco Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Opera de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L3). 8pm and 10pm. €15 (on the The most authentic (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15-€25. door). €12 (web). www.masimas. Banc Sabadell Festival Mil·lenni: contemporary flamenco al EQOLCODQTGG Josep Carreras – Barcelona, Tablao Cordobés Recital Andreas Scholl, German capital of the ‘’ See Mon 2. (La Rambla, 35). M: Song Mike Fletcher: Sax & Jazz An homage to the sardana, the Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). In a departure from his usual Birmingham native Mike Fletcher is

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 45 The Arts a rising star of the saxophone, and the 26th BCN Guitar Festival. La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: his trio, with Ollie Brice and Jeff Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Indie Diagonal (L3, L5). 6pm. €12. Williams, one of the most de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona interesting in UK jazz. (L1, L4). 9pm. €20-€52. Emergencia! Festival Vivaldi’s Venice L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Barcelona’s festival of emerging The girls’ choir of the Orfeo Català (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina music brings together indie perform Vivaldi’s Gloria and works (L1). 9pm. €12. Pop bands from all over Spain, by Marcello, Lotti and Albinoni. including MiraƂores, The Parrots, Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Banc Sabadell Mil·lenni Flamaradas, Der Panther, Hi de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Opera Festival: Adamo Corea! and Ensemble TopogràƁc. (L1, L4). 6pm. €15-€20. The Belgian composer and singer, CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat David Alegret best known for Tombe la Neige and (L1,L2) & Catalunya (L1,L3). More Guitar stars Tenor David Alegret, La Nuit, is one of the most info at www.cccb.org See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church accompanied by pianist Rubén commercially successful musicians (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Fernández Aguirre, performs in the world. Here he performs new L3). 7pm. €23. Schumann’s Dichterliebe, Op. 48, album Adamo chant Bécaud. Electroacoustic and Toldrà’s songs based on Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries texts by Trinitat Catasús, Joan (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Thomas Ankersmit Classical – Children Maragall, Josep Maria de (L1). 9pm. €36-€84. Dutch musician Thomas Ankersmit Segarra and Josep Carner. specialises in modular analogue Tubes and tubas Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau synthesisers: in this concert he See Sat 7. L’Auditori (Lepant, de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Saturday 14 explores acoustic and 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L1, L4). 16-17 January. 8.30pm. psychoacoustic phenomena such (L2) & Marina (L1). 10.30am and €10-€12. as sound reƂections, otoacoustic noon. €10. Under-1s, free. Classical emissions and infrasounds. Opera nights at Palau Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Song mosaic Dalmases Musical recital in Crypt of (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Family concert in which three Opera in the Espai Barroc, the Colonia Güell (L1). 7.30pm. €7. architectural features of the Palau courtyard of a stately 17th-century Vivaldi, Mozart and Boccherini de la Música come to life in poetry, palace in the Born. performed by a trio of two cellos song and dance, written by Joan (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). and Ƃute with Iulian Gogu, Olga Sunday 15 Figueres and Quim Serra, with the Thurs 11pm. €20. Mensenin and Svetlana Factoria Mascaró dance company Tovstushka. Electronic and music by El Somni del Drac. Colonia Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 – Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Friday 13 5CPVC%QNQOCFG%GTXGNNÏ / Synthesisers, tapes and de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Espanya (L1,L3). FGC: Colonia Güell percussion. Electronic music in (L1, L4). Noon. €11. Blues (S4, S8, S33). 1pm. €10. Includes Barcelona guided tour at 11am. As part of the Music Museum’s Friday blues at Palau Gomis Samplers Series, composers and Opera Joan Pau Cumellas (harmonica, Dvorak’s Eighth performers Perfecto Herrera, Sergi vocals), Sweet Martha The Barcelona Symphony and Jordà and Pilar Subirà plays works Norma (harmonica, vocals), Johnny Catalonia National Orchestra for RSF analogue synthesisers, See Sat 8. Gran Teatre del Liceu ‘Big Stone’ (guitar) and July under conductor Pablo González cassette players and percussion. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Lobos (piano). perform two works by Catalan Museu de la Música (Lepant, 5pm. €11-€268. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art composers, and DvoĮák’s 8th 150). M: Glòries (L1), Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: symphony. Monumental (L2) and Marina Jaume I (L4). Fri 6pm. €14 (includes L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1). Noon. €7 (includes concert, Monday 16 entrance to see the museum). (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina entrance to museum and guided (L1). 7pm. €10-€56. tour at 11am). Flamenco

Flamenco Classical music at MEAM Show at the Palacio del Guitarist Jaime Basulto plays Classical Flamenco The most authentic works by Narváez, Bach, Villa- See Tue 3. (Balmes, 139). M: contemporary flamenco al Lobos and Barrios. Dvorak’s Eighth Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily Tablao Cordobés MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art See Sat 14. 6.40pm, 8.30pm & 9.40pm. See Mon 2. (La Rambla, 35). M: Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Jaume I (L4). Sat 6pm. €19 (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (includes entrance to the museum (L1). 11am. €10-€56. Pop 26th Guitar Festival BCN. and a glass of cava). Estrella Morente & Niño Josele Victor de la Rosa, clarinet Katy Perry Flamenco cantaora Estrella Guitar stars Noted Majorcan clarinetist De la Pop superstar Katy Perry’s Morente pays homage to the music See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church Rosa performs music by Weber, blockbuster Prismatic World of Brazil with guitarist el Niño (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Berg, Grahams and Guionvart with Tour arrives at the Palau Sant Josele, in the inaugural concert of L3). 9pm. €23. pianist Òscar Caravaca. Jordi having packed out

46 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Arts stadiums all over the planet, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm with pyrotechnics, balloons, (double session). Cover charge €8. neon-clad backing dancers and multiple costume changes. Stephane Belmondo Trio. (Passeig Olímpic, Love for Chet 5-7). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 9pm. Tribute to Chet Baker by French €55-€95. jazzman Belmondo, one of the most popular Ƃügelhorn and trumpet players on the Catalan Folk – Rock European scene. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Festival Suite: Els Amics (L3). 8pm and 10pm. €20 (on the de les Arts door). €15 (web). More info: www. Catalan group Els Amics de les OCUKOCUEQOLCODQTGG Arts create miniature tales of daily life with simple melodies, a dash of electronica, wordplay Thursday 19 and ironic humour. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Classical Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5pm. €15-€38. Artemis Quartet DvoĮák’s UVTKPISWCTVGVKP(OCLQT Op. 96, Shostakovich’s quartet No. Tuesday 17 KP$ƂCVOCLQT1R and Tchaikovsky’s String Quartet No. 1 Classical KP&OCLQT1R. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Aaron Pilsan, piano (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Cornerstones of the piano (L1). 8.30pm. €20-€25. repertoire performed by the award- winning young Austrian virtuoso as Laia Masramon, piano part of the Europe-wide ECHO Precociously talented Catalan Rising Stars scheme, with works by pianist Laia Masramon performs Haydn, Widmann and Schumann. a varied programme with works Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau by Brahms, Chopin, PÀrt and de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Skriabin. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €13. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Guitar stars (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €12. See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €23. Gospel

I Cycle of Gospel and Spirituals Wednesday 18 at MEAM Performance by the Zetzania Vocal Folk – Indie Group, with conductor Erwyn Seeruton. 26th Guitar Festival BCN. James MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Vincent McMorrow Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: On second album Post Tropical, Jaume I (L4). Thur 8.30pm. €14 Irish singer-songwriter McMorrow (includes entrance to the museum combines poetic soul and folk with and a glass of cava). 21st-century electronic textures. See page 42. BARTS (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Friday 20 (L2, L3). 9pm. €25. Flamenco

Jazz Flamenco nights at Palau Dalmases Jazz concerts at Milano See Thu 12. (Montcada, 20). M: Cocktail Bar Jaume I (L4). Mon-Thur 7.30pm. Fri- See Wed 4. (Ronda Universitat, Sun 7.30pm and 9.30pm. €20.

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Guitar stars Postmodern Jukebox Band Classical See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church Classical – Dance Jazz covers of pop hits to create (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, an alternative musical history. FREE Quatour pour la fin du L3). 9pm. €23. Animal Religion. Sinòfor Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). temps by Oliver Messiaen See Fri 20. Auditori (Lepant, M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm.€26. Olivier Messiaen’s Quartet for the Spanish guitar masters 150). M: Glòries (L1), End of Time, performed by Judit Barcelona-born guitarist Manuel Monumental (L2) and Marina Bofarull (violin), Quim Alabau González has a well-established (L1). 6pm. €18. Rock (cello), Carles Pertegaz (clarinet) international career. and Carme Poch (piano). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 26th Guitar Festival BCN. Jolie Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Classical – Children Holland 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) (L1,L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Texan guitarist and singer Jolie & Arc de Triomf (L4). 8pm. Bach’s Playing: Family Holland blends elements of jazz, workshop country, rock blues and folk in new Classical – Dance Family music workshop in album Wine Dark Sea. Classical – Dance preparation for concerts in March. BARTS (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Animal Religion. Sinòfor Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L2, L3). 9pm. €22. Animal Religion See Fri 20. Auditori (Lepant, 150). (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina The siphonophorae are super- M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) (L1). 10.30am and 11am. €8. specialised marine and Marina (L1). 7.30pm. €18. Wednesday 25 microorganisms that survive by joining together to form colonies Monday 23 Flamenco resembling single organisms. Rock Inspired by these creatures, Classical The most authentic Animal Religion combine music 26 Guitar Festival BCN. contemporary flamenco al and theatre to offer their vision of Miguel Campello Bach in Barcelona Tablao Cordobés cooperative creativity. Campello, ex-lead singer of See Wed 4. Monestir de Sant Pau See Mon 2. (La Rambla, 35). M: Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Andalusian group elbicho, made del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina his solo debut in 2011, and last Paral·lel (L2,L3). (L1). 8.30pm. €18. year released his third solo album, Jazz Chatarrero 3. Camina. Flamenco Saturday 21 Sala Bikini (Av. Diagonal, 547). M: Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail Maria Cristina (L3). 9pm. €22. Show at the Palacio del Bar Classical Flamenco See Wed 4. (Ronda Universitat, See Tue 3. (Balmes, 139). M: 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm Music at the Catalan Sunday 22 Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily (double session). Cover charge €8. Modernisme Museum 6.40pm, 8.30pm & 9.40pm. Concert featuring works by Gumí, Classical Rossini, Bottesini and DvoĮák. Thursday 26 MMCAT (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de A world of sound – Barcelona Tuesday 24 Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). 7pm. €15 Municipal Band Singer-songwriters (includes entrance to the museum). A musical voyage around the Classical world, with works inspired by the Festival Barnasants: Kiko Wind quintet with a selection of Hebrides, Japan, Slovakian folk Cadaqués Orchestra Veneno & Martin Buscaglia, El white wines dance and the Italian Tarantella. The resident orchestra of the Pimiento Indomable Musical wine matching that pairs Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Cadaqués festival, under Kiko Veneno, the legendary Catalan wines with works for (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina conductor Gianandrea Noseda, Spanish musician who gave woodwind quintet. (L1). 11.30am. €14. performs Schubert, Ƃamenco a new edge in the ’70s, Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Mendelssohn’s and Schumann. shares the stage with Uruguayan (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Shakespeare Concerts Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries singer-songwriter Martín (L1). 1pm. €25. Josep Vila i Casañas conducts the (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Buscaglia. Chamber Choir of the Palau de la (L1). 8.30pm. €15-€100. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Leipzig and the Café Música, performing works by (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Zimmermann. J.S. Bach Dowland, Frank Martin and his own Guitar stars (L1). 9pm. €18. Teachers and students from the setting of Sonnet XIX. See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church Catalonia College of Music perform Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, works by J.S. Bach as part of a cycle de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona L3). 9pm. €23. Classical celebrating Baroque composers (L1, L4). 6pm. €10-€15. and the cafés musicals of the era. Cabaret Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). Guitar stars Jazz – Swing With actors Alba Valldaura and M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church Susana Borderia, Elena Copons and Marina (L1). Noon. Included in (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Banc Sabadell Festival (soprano) and Francisco Poyato museum entry fee. L3). 7pm. €23. Mil·lenni: Scott Bradlee & The (piano) explore the greatest

48 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Arts works written for cabaret, with Johnny ‘Big Stone’ (guitar). Musical recital in Crypt of music by Poulenc, Britten, MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Electronic Colonia Güell: Flute trio and dos Schonberg, Hahn and Satie. Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: cellos Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Jaume I (L4). Fri 6pm. €14 (includes Dnit. Electronic concert – Dorian See Sat 14. (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina entrance to museum). Concept Colonia Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 – (L1). 8.30pm. €12. Austrian producer and keyboard 5CPVC%QNQOCFG%GTXGNNÏ / virtuoso Dorian Concept brings Espanya (L1,L3). FGC: Colonia Güell Sara Cubarsí, violin Singer-songwriters together electronic music and jazz (S4, S8, S33). 1pm. €10. Includes Catalan violinist Sara Cubarsi in his live show. guided tour at 11am. performs Samuel Banc Sabadell Festival CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferar i Barber’s|Adagio for strings, Mil·lenni: Rafa Pons guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya Guitar stars Philip Glass’s violin concerto ‘Dissimula’ (L1,L3,FGC). 10pm. €6. Half price See Tue 3. Santa Anna Church No. 2, The American Four Barcelona rocker Pons presents for clients of “la Caixa”. (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Seasons, and Bernat Vivancos’s his fourth album. L3). 9pm. €23. ‘La ciutat dels angels’. BARTS (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (L2, L3). 9pm. €15-€24. African Pop – Soul de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Electronic (L1,L4). 8pm. €13. Banc Sabadell Festival Classical Mil·lenni: Asa – Bed of Stone MACBA live. Reflections in Guitar stars As Asa, French-Nigerian singer plastic 2.0 – With Invedrs DJs See Sat 7. Santa Anna Church Pierre Hantaï, Goldberg Bukola Elemide explores the Continuing the series ReƂections (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya Variations 1742. Jordi connections between soul, pop on Plastic, Albert Almakx and (L1, L3). 9pm. €23. Savall – The Original Sound and African music on third album miKegineR (Invaders DJs) present Internationally renowned Bed of Stone.Sala Apolo (Nou de la a strictly vinyl DJ set accompanied French|harpsichordist Hantaï Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). by video. Jazz plays the|Goldberg Variations of 9pm. €26 (in advance). MACBA (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: J.S.|Bach of 1742 on the Universitat (L1, L3) & Sant Antoni FREE Eva Fernández instrument for|which they were (L2). 7pm. Included with museum The saxophonist is a rising star written. Saturday 28 entrance fee. of the Catalan jazz scene. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, (L1), Monumental (L2) and Marina Classical 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4) (L1). 8pm. €20-€30. Pop – Folk and Arc de Triomf (L4). 8pm. Classical music at MEAM FREE Trio with romantic ‘Paris. Broadway. Barcelona’. Guillem Roma and the Camping piano Music by Satie, Poulenc, Weill, Band Orchestra Friday 27 Works by Brahms and Novak Schönberg, Bernstein, Guinovart Catalan musician Guillem Roma performed by Alberto Reguera and Timón, performed by Laia brings together inƂuences from the Blues (violin), Lito Iglesias (cello) and Frigolé (soprano) and Lamia Balkans to Mexico with his Josep Maria Almirón (piano). Bensmail (piano). nomadic and ever-changing Friday blues at Palau Gomis Born Cultural Centre (Pl. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Camping Band Orchestra. Little George (harmonica), Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I, Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: ‘Tota’ (harmonica, vocals), July Barceloneta (L4) and Arc de Jaume I (L4). Sat 6pm. €19 (includes Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) Lobos, (piano, vocals), and Triomf (L4). 8pm. entrance and a glass of cava). and Marina (L1). 9pm. €15.

INTERNATIONAL SOUNDS

YUJA WANG BRIGITTE DULCE PONTES JOSÉ GONZÁLEZ Wang has captivated the world of French indie-folk duo Brigitte, made up Portuguese singer and songwriter Having been busy with other projects, classical music with her prodigious of singers Sylvie Hoarau and Aurélie Dulce Pontes blends traditional fado the indie folk singer from Gothenburg talent. The Chinese pianist performs Saada, tour their 2014 album with contemporary styles, drawing on presents Vestiges and Claws, his first Liszt, Chopin, Scriabin and Balakirev. À bouche que veux-tu. different musical cultures. solo album in seven years. Auditori, Mon 9. 8.30pm. €10-€48. Apolo, Tue 10. 8.30pm. €28-€32. Auditori, Thu 19. 9pm. €24-€54. Auditori, Fri 20. 9pm. €28.

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look at the most successful public holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Hiroshima-Nagasaki Until 15 Feb. animation company of recent Mon (except public holidays). €4 Marking the 70th anniversary since Exhibitions times. See page 43. (permanent and temporary the atom bomb was dropped on the FREE Windows of the world 27 exhibitions). Under 16s free. First two Japanese cities, and brought Feb-31 Aug. A series of short Ɓlms Sun of month free. the Second World War to an end. Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona portraying life in very different parts Permanent exhibition Almacelles, 18th century (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de of Africa, Asia and South America. Barcelona’s science museum that architecture and urban planning Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 covers more than 50,000m2. 17 Feb-8 Mar. Catalan town 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas Mediterranean No end date. The Almacelles has a unique design. Sun and public holidays. (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries natural history of the (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). Mediterranean region, and the Espai VolART-Fundació Vila FREE The daguerreotype. The T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am- conservation challenges it faces in Casas beginnings of photography Until 6pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon the future. (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona 28 Feb. and public holidays. Adults €5. Let’s talk about drugs No end (L1, L4) . T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri Students & pensioners €2. date. The effects of drug 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm- Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de consumption. 8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Barcelona Permanent exhibition Sputnik. The Soyuz 2 Odyssey Mon and public holidays. €1. (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Contemporary painting collection, 18 Feb-31 May. Delving into the Reduced: 50¢. Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 housed in a former cotton mill in mystery of what happened to 55. Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9am- Poblenou. cosmonaut Colonel Ivan Istotxnikov, Works with trees (and other 1pm. Closed Sat, Sun and public Agustí Puig. Va voler ser boira i who disappeared from his vegetables) Until 26 Apr. holidays. va voler ser vent Until 22 Feb. spacecraft in October 1968. Jordi Fornàs / Joan Pedragosa Fifteen pieces by the Catalan Until 26 Apr FREE Eating in Barcelona. A painter and engraver, focusing on Cúpula del Centre Comercial Las Subirà-Puig, son of the trees century of menus from the Archive man and his context. Arenas Until 26 Apr (1880-1980) Until 30 Apr. The (Cúpula del Centre Comercial Las socialisation of eating out in the Castell de Montjuïc Arenas. Plaça d’Espanya, s/n). M: Fundació Antoni Tàpies city during the 20th century. %VTCFG/QPVLWËE /'URCP[C Espanya (L2-L3-FGC). Mon-Sun and (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Oct- public holidays, 10am-9pm. (Last (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- Blue Project Foundation Mar: Mon-Sun and public holidays admission 8pm). €12. Reduced: Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) 10am-6pm. €5. Reduced: €3. €7. Under 7s free. More info: www. Students and pensioners, €5.60. & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- humanbodies.eu Sun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. Montjuïc, the construction of a Antoni Tàpies. Collection # 9 Until Closed until 7 Jan. €3. castle Permanent exhibition, telling Human Bodies Until April. An 15 Feb. Selection of Tàpies’s works Chen Zhen: In-Between Until 22 the story of Montjuïc and its castle. exhilarating journey inside the from the Foundation’s collection. Feb. His Ɓrst Spanish show Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles human body. Interval. Sound Actions Until 15 contains Ɓve installations from Berga. Permanent exhibition. Feb. An exhibition/essay about different points in his career. Catalan Fortresses Until 31 Mar. El Born Centre Cultural listening contexts. FREE Bukra Inshallah 13 Feb-5 Looking at historical ways that (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I Maria Lassnig 27 Feb-31 May. Apr. Catalonia has defended itself. (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 Focus on the work of the Austrian 68 51. Tues-Sun and public artist, who passed away last year. CaixaForum Centre de Cultura holidays, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon Antoni Tàpies. Collection # 10 27 (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). Contemporània de Barcelona (except public holidays). €6. Feb-31 May. Another range of M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 476 (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, Reduced: €4. Under 16s free. Sun works by the late Catalan artist. 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & 3pm-8pm free. First Sun every €4. Under 16s free. public holidays 11am-8pm. 5-6 Jan month free, 10am-8pm. Fundació Francisco Godia 11am-3pm. Closed Mon (except &KRWVCEKÏ /2CUUGKIFG ‘Genesis’ by Sebastião Salgado public holidays). €6. Reduced entry El Born Centre Cultural Under the Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) & Provença Until 8 Feb. Photographs of for pensioners and students on Wed cast iron structure of one of the (FGC). T. 93 272 31 80. Mon-Sat landscapes, animals and people, (except public holidays): €4. Under city’s most striking 19th century 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-3pm. Closed far from the modern world. 16s & unemployed: free. markets lies an archaeological site Tue. €7. Reduced €4. The most important thing. from the 1700s. Portraits of refugees Until 8 Feb. Arissa. The shadow and the Barcelona 1700. From stones to Permanent exhibition With works Large-format portraits, in which photographer, 1922-1936 Until 12 people. Permanent exhibition by Ramon Casas, Santiago refugees show the most important Apr. More than 160 black and 18th-century Barcelona was Rusiñol, Joan Miró and Miquel object they brought from home. white photographs from all stages dynamic and forward-looking, but Barceló. Three narratives. Participation of the artist’s career. marked by the wars that affected Until 15 Feb. Works from the pla Shadowland by Kazuhiro Goshima the city from 1691 to 1714. Fundació Joan Miró Caixaq contemporary art collection. Until 12 Apr. Film installation Until it is done! The siege of 1714 2CTEFG/QPVLWËEUP /'URCP[C FREE I see what you can’t 4 Feb- projected in 3-D. No end date. Examining the siege (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Oct- 24 May. The creative world of of Barcelona that lasted for more Jun: Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Thu people diagnosed with autism. CosmoCaixa than a year and ended with 10am-9.30pm; Sun & public Pixar: 25 years of animation 6 (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo capitulation to Bourbon troops on holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed Feb-3 May. A behind-the-computer (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun and September 11 1714. Mon (except public holidays). €11.

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Temporary exhibition: €7. Espai La Virreina Centre de la Imatge paintings and 80 sculptures. 22. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm Closed 13: €2.50. (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 A walk around the work of Sun and public holidays. Permanent exhibition The largest 316 10 00. Tue-Sun & public Josep Llimona, 150 years. Until 1 public collection of Miró’s work. holidays, 12am-8pm. Mar. Marking the anniversary of his FREE Permanent exhibition. Barcelona, neutral zone Until 15 birth in 1864, see an extensive Archaeological display among the Feb. Examining the artistic Jordi Socías. Found photographs 6 collection of works by this Catalan foundations of the Santa Caterina landscape in Barcelona during Feb-26 Apr. Images from Catalan sculptor. See page 43. market. World War One. photojournalist. Espai 13: With your own hands / MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents de Museu Blau Rita Ponce de León Until 15 Mar. MACBA. Museu d’Art Barcelona (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc Series of pieces created by Ponce Contemporani (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum de León inspired by a person she (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Fri knows and conversations they’ve (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 4pm-7pm; Sat 11am-8pm; Sun, 10am-7pm. Sat & Sun 10am-8pm. had together. 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; public holidays 10am-2pm. Closed Closed Mon (except public Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays Mon (except public holidays). €8. holidays). €6. Reduced: €2.70. Fundació Suñol 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except Reduced €6. Museum & Botanical Gardens €7. (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: public holidays). Whole museum Reduced: €5 Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. ticket: €10 (reduced €8). Permanent exhibition The Mon-Fri 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat fascinating world of creativity and Poisoned. The most venemous 4-8pm. Closed Sun and public Art & Language: Uncompleted. inventing. animals in nature Until Dec 2015 holidays. €6. €4 Reduced: €2. The Philippe Méalle collection Discover the use and purpose of Until 12 Oct. Conceptual works MUHBA Museu d’Història de natural poisons, which can both Italia. I Sei Sensi Until 9 Jan, 2016. from of the Art & Language Barcelona kill and save. Re-examination of late 20th- movement. (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 century Italian works held in the Collection 2014: The 256 21 22. Tues-Sat 10–7pm; Sun Museu de Badalona collection of the Suñol Foundation. Immaterial Legacy Until Jun. 10am-8pm. Public holidays 10am- (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Miquel Mont. Never is enough 13 Changes and ruptures in art and 2pm. 6 Jan, 11am-2pm. Closed Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 Feb-25 Apr. Barcelona-born artist society between the late ’70s and Mon. €7. Reduced: €5. Under-16s 384 17 50. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, now based in Paris exhibits his early ’80s. free. Free admission Sun from 3pm. 5-8pm; Sun & public holidays 10am- simple, striking paintings. The Passion according to Carol 2pm. €6.48. Reduced: €2.16. Acte 31: Thibault Brunet. From 0 Rama Until 22 Feb. Pieces by the Permanent exhibition An to 1. From 1 to 0 27 Feb-25 Apr. Italian artist. archaeological tour of the Roman Permanent exhibition Baetulo, a New solo show from French Nonument (Convent dels colony of Barcino, the origins of Roman City. Visit the underground photographer Brunet. Àngels) Until 8 Feb. Social the city we know today. remains of the Roman baths and architecture and critical urban the Decumanus Maximus. Hash Marihuana & Hemp design. MUHBA. Park Güell Museum Sigalit Landau / Phoenician (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 Museu de Montserrat (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T. sand dance Until 15 Feb. Video 256 21 22. 25 Oct – 23 Mar: daily, (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 93 319 75 39. Every day 10am- sculptural work reƂecting on 8.30am-6pm. The Casa de la Montserrat). Monistrol de 10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free. important global events from the Guarda museum in Park Güell is Montserrat. T. 93 877 77 45. past two decades or so. part of the ‘monumental area’ of Mon-Sun 10am-5.30pm. €7. Permanent exhibition The past, Car je est un autre. Pep the park, and visits are covered by Reduced: €4. present and future of the cannabis Dardanyà Until 24 May. general conditions for admission. Permanent Exhibition Paintings plant and its various uses. Questioning the ‘touch-ups’ made Access with ticket only. More by El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, FREE Palau Mornau – Making-of to photographs, which have information: www.parkguell.cat. Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso. Until 29 Mar. The history and become so ubiquitous in Prints, by Joaquim Chancho architecture of this building that advertising today. Permanent exhibition. The Casa Until 15 Mar. Original graphic today houses the Hash Museum. Osvaldo Lamborghini Until 6 de la Guarda, Park Güell and works on paper. Sept. Looking back on the life and modernista Barcelona. Jana Sterback Until 1 Mar. Almost Jardí Botànic work of this Argentinian writer. anthropological analysis of the (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Passat inquiet 20 Feb-18 May. MUHBA Refugi 307 human condition from this multi- Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 41 Re-examination of the (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: cultural Czech artist. 60. Oct-Mar: every day, 10am-6pm. international art show held in Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22. €3.50. Reduced €1.70. 1978 in support of Palestine. Sun: guided visits by appointment MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica only. 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm. (La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1, Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Closed public holidays. €3.40. L3). T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10 Mediterranean climate zones all Modern am-12pm. Adults €9. Reduced: €8 over the world. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). MUHBA Refugi 307 400 Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am- metres of underground Permanent exhibition The cabinet of curiosities Until Feb 8pm. €7. Reduced €5. passageways bear witness to the history of eroticism. 2016. Reconstruction of one of city’s suffering during the Civil War. Barcelona’s earliest natural history 21st century art. Permanent Museu de la Moto de Barcelona collections. exhibition from the museum’s MUHBA Santa Caterina (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. Bonsai Feb-Jun Show of mini trees. collection with almost 300 (Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 15 Sep-14 Jun: Tue-Sat 10.30am-

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2.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm. Sun applied arts collections (3rd-20th Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays early age, but left behind an 10.30am-2.30pm. Closed Mon. century) Permanent exhibition. 11am-8pm. Closed Mon (except accomplished if small body of work. Pieces of art from across the public holidays). €4.20. Reduced: The history of the motorbike in centuries including ceramics, €2.40. Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Joan Catalonia 36 of the most textiles, furniture and clocks. Antoni Samaranch representative models. Graphic design: from trade to Permanent exhibition Located in (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Bultaco, a legendary motorbike profession Permanent exhibition. one of the spaces that once Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 292 53 Until Nov. The musem pays homage Tracing the 20th century housed the , its 79. Oct-Mar: Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; to one of the greatest Spanish professionalisation of graphic collection includes a range of Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. motorbike manufacturers. design. valuable artworks and objects. Closed Mon (except public holidays). Design for life 19 Feb-16 May. €5.10. Students: €3.20. Under-7s Museu de la Música Looking at how design can provide Museu Marítim de Barcelona and over-65s: free. (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: the answer to everyday problems. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Permanent exhibition Sport and 256 36 50. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Museu del Futbol Club Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. the Olympic spirit. Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. Barcelona In the footsteps of Artur Osona. €5. Reduced: €3.50. Free (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Estadi FCB. Underwater cameras. The The Montseny of the Ɓrst hikers admission Sun from 3pm. Gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. challenges of submarine and tourists Until 15 Feb. Osona 902 18 99 00. 7 Jan-27 Mar: 10am- photography (Naus de les was the anonymous author of the Permanent exhibition. A journey 6.30pm. Sun: 10am-2.30pm. €23. Drassanes) Until 12 Apr. The Ɓrst published guide to hiking in through different periods in the Children: €17. Under 6s and FCB evolution of underwater images. Catalonia, Excursion to the history of music. members, free. Pirates of the Mediterranean Until mountain of Montseny (1879). Phonos, 40 years of electronic 29 Mar. Looking at the history of music in Barcleona. Until 28 Jun. Camp Nou Experience Discover local pirates down the ages. The Phonos laboratory was created 100 years of the club’s history and Catalonia Cities Until 22 Feb. Show (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). in 1974 and became a Spanish visit the Camp Nou stadium. inspired by the 100th anniversary T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; pioneer in electro music, through in 2014 of the Catalan Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon experimentation and composition. Museu del Mamut Mancomunitat, which started (except public holidays). €14 Voices of the Mediterranean. (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 investigating the local territory. (combined ticket for museum + Until 27 Sept. Bringing together 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Barcelona World Race Until 6 Apr. temporary exhibition). Collection examples of voices from countries €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (6- Exhibition focused on the biennial only: €11. Temporary exhibition around the Med, including Italy, 15): €3.50 sailing regatta that sees teams only: €6.50. Croatia, Greece, Egypt and Algeria. Permanent exhibition compete to be the Ɓrst to return to See remains of woolly mamoths the starting port of Barcelona. Permanent exhibition More than and other Ice Age animals. II Sea Photography Contest 5 3,800 works from different periods (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant Feb-5 Mar. Exhibition of photos in Picasso’s life. Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 Museu del Modernisme Català selected from watery-themed 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia competition. Palau Robert Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Groups: €4. (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon- (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (L3, Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Museu Nacional d’Art de L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat Permanent exhibition €10. Reduced: €7. Catalunya 10am–7pm. Sun, public holidays The story of chocolate, from its Permanent exhibition 2CTEFG/QPVLWËE /'URCP[C . 10am-2.30pm. origins to its arrival in Europe in the 350 works by 42 of the most L3, FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Oct-Apr: FREE Women. Afghanistan Sala 1. 16th century. important artists of the Catalan Tue-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun, public Until 15 Feb. Photographs Modernisme movement. holidays 10am-3pm. Closed Mon documenting the reality of life for Museu del Disseny de (expect public holidays). €12. Free women in Afghanistan. Barcelona Museu Egipci de Barcelona admission Sat afternoon, from 3pm. FREE 100 years of the 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2N (València, 284). M: Passeig de Temporary exhibitions: ask at professional librarian 18 Feb-10 de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). M: Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. museum. Admission includes May. Study of the work of these Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Tue- Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- admission to the museum’s roof indispensable book-keepers. Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. More 2pm. €11. Reduced €8. terraces. information: museudeldisseny.cat Pis-museu Casa Bloc Permanent exhibition Almost a Permanent exhibition The (C. d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: From the world to the museum. thousand exhibits provide a world’s most important collection Torras i Bages (L1). Guided visit by Product design, cultural heritage glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. of Romanesque art and Catalan appt. in Catalan, Spanish and Permanent exhibition. Daily objects Tutankhamun. Story of a Modernisme. English: reservations must be made considered from a museum discovery Until 30 June. New presentation of the 19th before Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am perspective. Remembering the archeological and 20th century collections No & 12.30pm. 93 256 34 63. Dressing the body. Silhouettes expedition of 1922 that uncovered end date. The MNAC expands its Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; and fashion (1550-2014) the pharaoh’s tomb. permanent collection to include Sat, Sun 3-5.30pm. More info: www. Permanent exhibition. How women works from the early 20th century. museudeldisseny.cat. change their shape through what Museu Frederic Màres Carles Casagemas. The artist they wear. (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) & beneath the myth Until 22 Feb. Casa Bloc A symbol of rational Extraordinary! Decorative and Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue- Friend of Picasso who died at an social housing in Barcelona.

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Reial Monestir de Santa Maria (L3). T. 93 289 27 70. www. days with a programmed Nader and Maria Campos are de VGCVTGNNKWTGECV6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP performance, from 5pm). regular collaborators who join (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça forces in this exploration of the Reina Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 Margarida Xurgú) and 3 hours Sister Act, the Divine musical relationship between sound and 34 34. Oct-Mar: Tues-Fri, 10am- before performances start (Sala Tue, Wed & Thu, 8pm. Fri & Sat, movement. Show included with 2pm; Sat & Sun, 10am-5pm. Fabià Puigserver). 5.30pm & 9.30pm. Sun, 6pm. Until museum entrance. Public holidays, 10am-2pm. May. €27-€69.50. Comedy musical Closed Mon (except public El rei Lear Tue-Fri 8.30pm. Sat about singer Dolores forced to go Mercat de les Flors holidays). €4.40. Reduced: €3.10. 9pm. Sun 6pm. Until 22 Feb. €15- into hiding in a convent. In Spanish. (Lleida, 59). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 €29. Classic Shakespeare play. In See page 26. 329 91 89. www.mercatflors.cat. Permanent exhibitions Murals Catalan; Saturday surtitles in Ticket offices open one hour before under the magnifying glass – Spanish and English. performances start. paintings from the Sant Miquel Circle Mirror Transformation Wed- Teatre Victòria Chapel; Plants, remedies and Fri 9pm. Sat 6pm & 9.30pm. Sun (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel (L2, What the body does not apothecaries – using home-grown 6.30pm. Until 22 Feb. Annie L3). T. 93 329 91 89. www. remember 1 Feb, 8.30pm. €25. plants to treat illnesses. Baker’s award-winning play. In VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO$QQMQHƁEG9GF Controversial choreography Catalan. Fri, from 5pm. Sat & Sun, from 4pm returns to the Mercat after 25 until performance starts. years as part of a new world tour. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya Dot 6pm. 14 Feb. 12pm. 15 Feb. Theatre (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1). T. Mar i Cel Thu 8.30pm. Fri 9.30pm. €8. Dance, theatre, music and 93 306 57 00. www.tnc.cat. Ticket Sat 5.30 & 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. Until new technologies feature in a QHƁEGUQRGP9GF(TKRO5CV 22 Feb. €29-€46. Dagoll Dagomm’s piece inspired by US artist Sol El Molino 3-8.30pm. Sun 3-5pm. popular musical, a version of Angel LeWitt, and aimed at young (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Guimera’s tale of corsairs and children. Tel. 93 396 71 91. www. No feu bromes amb l’amor 5-8 Feb. captives. In Catalan. See page 26. John 19-21 Feb, 8.30pm. €25. GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU Thur-Sat 8pm. Sun 6pm. 12 Feb-22 Based on interviews with almost Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available Mar. Thur-Fri 8pm. Sat 5pm and 50 men, this new choreography via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. €23. French from DV8 Physical Theatre 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU playwright Alfred de Musset wrote Dance company uses their stories of this piece in 1834 about young love, sex and personal struggle. El Molino Show-Time Wed love, arranged marriages and the IDN 2015: Neural Narratives 2 – 6.30pm. Thu 9.30pm. Fri 6.30pm. impact they can have on the wider Gran Teatre del Liceu Polytopya 26 Feb, 8.30pm. €16. Sat 8pm. €33. family. In Catalan. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Part of the Ɓfth IDN festival Alvaro Carmona. Yo soy (I am) Sun L’art de la comèdia 12-15 Feb. T. 93 485 99 13. www. (Image, Dance, New 7.45pm. Stand up examining the Thur-Sat 8pm. Sun 6pm. From 18 liceubarcelona.cat Technologies), this work looks at mysteries of the self. In Spanish. Feb, Wed-Fri 8pm. Sat 5pm and the connection between artiƁcial 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. €28. Catalan Semperoper Ballett – An Evening and real body parts. Teatre Gaudí Barcelona actor Lluís Homar directs this with the Works of William IDN 2015: Quantum 27 Feb, (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M: production of Eduardo de Filippo’s Forsythe 20 Feb, 8pm. 21 Feb, 8.30pm. €16. Following an artistic Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant comedy about the role of theatre in 5pm and 9pm. €8-€107. The residency at the CERN particle Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603 51 modern society. In Catalan. historic Semperoper Ballett physics laboratory in Geneva, 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. combines classical with Swiss choreographer Gilles Jobin EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGPQPGJQWT Teatre Poliorama contemporary dance practices in and German artist Julius von before performances start. (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya this two-night run dedicated to Bismarck returned to their (L1, L3). T. 93 317 75 99. www. works created by innovative US respective homes to work Limbo 4 Feb-1 Mar. Thur-Sat 8pm. VGCVTGRQNKQTCOCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU choreographer William Forsythe. separately on this performance, Sun 6pm. €20. In Catalan. open Tue-Fri, from 5pm. Sat & Sun, an homage to particle physics for from 4pm. MACBA six dancers. : Gràcia (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat IDN: Shiver 28 Feb, 8.30pm. €16. (Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3) & Polònia, the musical Wed & Thu, (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 Swiss dancer Nicole Seiter often Joanic (L4). T. 93 238 76 25. www. 8.30pm. Fri, 9pm. Sat, 6.30pm & 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; uses multimedia resources in her VGCVTGNNKWTGEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP 9.30pm. Sun, 6.30pm. 11 Jan, Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays work. Here video imagery of the Mon-Fri 5-8pm. Weekends and 6pm. Until 8 Feb. €15-€39. Musical 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except dancers is projected onto them. public holidays from 5pm version of satirical Catalan TV show public holidays). Whole museum Polònia, poking fun at Spanish and ticket: €10 (reduced €8). Teatre Nacional de Catalunya Somni americà. Until 1 Mar. Wed-Fri Catalan public Ɓgures. (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1) & 8.30pm. Sat 5.30pm and 9pm. Sun Short essay on nothingness – Monumental (L2). T. 93 306 57 00. 6pm. €12-€23. Piece based on Teatre Tívoli a scenic experiment 14 Feb, YYYVPEECV6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP work by some of the great 20th- (Casp, 8). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. Created by Iris Heitzinger Wed-Fri 3pm-7pm. Sat 3pm- century US playwrights. In Catalan. Pg. de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 902 this performance examines the 8.30pm. Sun 3pm-5pm. 888 788. More info: sistera- experience of being on stage. Foot-ball 1 Feb, 6pm. €9.50-€19. Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc ctelmusical.com. Ticketmaster, Show included with museum Moments from FC Barcelona’s (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). M: Atrapalo, Grup Balanyà and Teatre entrance. history shown through dance. In Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec 6ÉXQNKoUQYPVKEMGVQHƁEGU QP Zenith 21 Feb, 7pm. Guy English and Catalan.

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STAND-OUT DISHES

‘LLETONS’ ‘When you eat out you always order the things you don’t make at home,’ says the chef. Like, for example, this incredibly tender, juicy suckling pig served with cream of celeriac.

A Catalan winter meal La Cuina del DO consolidates its identity with a personal take on authentic . By Ricard Martín

A little over one thousand days local food – the ‘km 0’ approach – Semantic difficulties aside, the ago, the Plaça Reial began to but without fanaticism, La Cuina menu at DO also features more STICK OUT YOUR TONGUE! undergo a transformation. First del DO’s winter menu shows off light-hearted dishes such as their An impeccably executed, creative there was Ocaña, with Barcelona’s the talents of a young chef (only ceviche of corball (the mar i muntanya: succulent beef ’70s counterculture as its USP, 33) with a flair for getting the best unappealingly named brown tongue layered over two meaty rejecting the Barça shirts and out of offal, for mar i muntanya meagre) and passion fruit. But langoustine tails. The seasonal Mexican sombreros of La Rambla. dishes combining meat and where it really excels is in touch comes in the form of black But in terms of food, its was La seafood, and for rice (in other established classics: if you love chanterelle mushrooms. Cuina del DO, at the Hotel DO, that words, all the essential paella, you shouldn’t miss their really made a difference, because, components of Catalan cookery). rice with llàgrima d’ibèric – for once, a hotel restaurant right in deboned Iberian pork spare ribs, the heart of the city was serving ‘Haute cuisine’ offal barbecued on the grill – with creative Catalan cuisine without Fusing those first two categories, crunchy snow peas, or their rice diluting it. it’s impossible not to feel attracted with foie gras and black Three years later, under Pere by a dish of ganxet beans with a chanterelles. Moreno – not the same chef who botifarra sausage made from pig’s ‘We’re very self-sufficient,’ launched the project – La Cuina trotters and espardenyes, a states Moreno proudly. So much del DO has consolidated its own spectacular collision of gelatinous so that DO must be the only hotel brand of serious, creative Catalan flavours. Although, as the in Barcelona that bakes its own cooking, with a distinctive identity restaurant manager explains, their bread and pastries. Even the that sets it apart from the usual determination to remain true to cheese is its own. The company PERFECT PUDDINGS run of mass-produced luxury hotel local traditions sometimes makes behind DO is from Manresa, and The high point of the desserts on food. Moreno tries to ‘make it difficult to translate the menu. produces its own craft cheese. the menu – all home-made – are the something great from the How do you explain to an out-of- ice creams, a house speciality. An ingredients without overworking towner that an espardenya isn’t LA CUINA DEL DO example: their seasonal fruit them. If I serve sole, I want people simply a sea cucumber, but a sea Plaça Reial, 1 (Gòtic) with mascarpone, spiced bread to see that it’s sole.’ Focusing on cucumber’s digestive tract? T. 93 481 36 66. P: around €50 and a red wine sorbet.

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Bodega la Puntual BARCELONA ‘STREET FOOD’ The latest gastro trend, but indoors

GRÀCIA CASA E BOTTEGA Italian-style sandwiches, with artisan bread, and home-made dishes mean this place is worth a visit. Terol, 8.

EIXAMPLE ESQ EIXAMPLE DRET LA BUTIKFARRA LA TAGUARA FASTVÍNIC Authentic Catalan (REC, 10) SERVES UP Do yourself a favour sausages, botifarres, THE VENEZUELAN and spend some time given a creative spin SNACK PAR on their ‘slow fast IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN to take a swipe at the EXCELLENCE, THE food’. The sandwiches joined forces with Felipe, an hot dog vendors of the ‘AREPA’ are amazing. experienced chef, to find world. Paris, 209. Diputació, 251. Montcada, 22 (Ciutat Vella) inspiration not only in the nearby T. 93 310 35 45. P: around €30 Xampanyet (which is as BARCELONETA successful as ever), but also in Two families, two histories, two Casa Varela, Taverna del Born, El SANDWICHERÍA BACANA men – José Varela and Joan Cuévano and El Rosal d’en José. Try their Uruguayan take on Milanese Carles Ninou – loyal to the craft Start your feast with the escalope sandwiches. You’ll be expertly practised by their mortadella with truffle, anchovies hooked. Almirall Cervera, 9. predecessors. The parents of the on ice, some good ham or an former excelled at the head of La exceptional capipota with Xarxa restaurant – today called chickpeas (a tripe dish), to be Casa Varela – in the city’s uptown followed by tuna tartare – done From the deep blue sea zone. The second is the son of particularly well here – and calçots Estevet, barman at El Xampanyet (Catalan onions) supplied by a who taught clients to appreciate farmer friend of the proprietors. quality, to differentiate between Or you could try the sublime one clam and another, between trinxat (a Catalan speciality made one cockle and another, ditto with fried cabbage, potato and anchovies and all those top-end bacon) with eggs. If in a group, conserved foods he served up, share an arròs (rice dish) along with some of the tastiest prepared by Felipe with botifarra tapas in ’70s Barcelona, when sausage and horn of plenty wild the city was teetering between the mushrooms. The wine list has a old and the new. good selection for clients of More recently, while Joan differing budgets and is updated Carles and José were dining at Cal regularly. –Marcelo Aparicio Tito in Vilassar, they discovered that the old Barcelona locale Sometimes this task of writing the Atlantic Ocean and used by Casa Gispert to toast its THE BILL about the latest Barcelona food Mediterranean Sea converge, dried fruits had become available news is the easiest in the world. León’s love of the water was – it’s easy to imagine that they When a press release lands on inspired by his father, a keen sealed the deal on their future (For 2) your desk including phrases such Ɓsherman. Served at a shared enterprise by the time dessert 1 tuna tartare ...... €8.90 as ‘he discovered how to capture table in the BistrEau restaurant, arrived. Eighteen months later, 1 pickled mussels ...... €8.50 the bioluminescent light of pelagic with views of the kitchen, the meal and without any fanfare, they 1 arròs with botifarra ...... €16.00 Ɓsh in his recipes’, you know you’ll features 15 courses (€129, €175 inaugurated Bodega la Puntual as 1 Cerdanya trinxat ...... €7.50 be going home early. So it is with with wine pairings). Due to change ‘more than a tavern’ and rather an 1 calçots ...... €6.70 the newest gastronomic venture each season, the inaugural dishes attempt at creating a place with 1 bottle of rosé ...... €14.00 from the city’s Mandarin Oriental include oyster meringue, plankton good taste and quality at hotel. Michelin-starred chef Ángel cotton and Palamós prawn reasonable prices, while also TOTAL (with VAT) ...... €61.60 León (he of the bioluminescent gnocchi. Job done. –HP maintaining the neighbourhood light) has created a tasting menu ambience. La Puntual is just what Time Out Barcelona food & drink inspired by the sea, which will be LA MESA DE ÁNGEL LEÓN was missing in the already thriving critics review anonymously and served to just 12 diners a night. Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona Born area. The owners have pay their own bills. Hailing from Cádiz, close to where T. 93 151 88 88

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offshoot was created – Biercab Shop, located just next door where customers can Ɓ nd not A long lineage just beers to purchase but all kinds of related merchandise. Beer aƁ cionados should make this a port of call, for books, key Remelluri Reserva 2008 rings, T-shirts, bags, pins, a DOQ Rioja. Vol. 14 %. €18 range of glasses (including the Biercab glass, designed This winery has a long lineage. specially for tastings) and, of Mentioned in a 10th-century course, craft beers to suit all graveyard, it was later blessed by palates. Note that this is the monks and now beneƁ ts from the only place in Barcelona that nose of Spain’s top wine man – sells these drinks chilled. who started his career there – Telmo Rodríguez. Seventeen Unconditional love months in barrels of varying origins ‘Craft beer is a living creature and sizes; home raised yeasts and that has to be well cared for,’ manual harvesting in explains manager Andrés 20kg boxes. The Jimeno, ‘otherwise its balance result is tasty, will be altered.’ When asked to meticulously recommend something out of matured, and cared- the ordinary, he shows us the for. Sweet notes Westvleteren, a beer that is integrated only available from a Belgian completely with the monastery if you go there in toast of the wood person in your car (it’s regarded sit alongside

MARIA DIAS as one of the best in the world), blended, as well as a two-litre relic that mature tanins. costs around €300. They also Organic with Great beer, to take away stock a good range of the biodynamic house beer, Naparbier, which is treatments, Fans of the amber nectar have a new made in Navarra; a beautiful it’s a classic must-visit destination. By Laura Conde Japanese-Belgian creation improved. made with yuzu and… the list –Meritxell Eighteen months ago, when range of international beers, a goes on and on, but if you head Falgueras Biercab, a restaurant menu featuring outstanding to Biercab Shop, a place where specialising in craft beers (of tapas, and a desire to educate unconditional love for the which it stocked 30), opened clients without taking product reigns, they will be Enjoy this wine its doors, none of its founders themselves too seriously – they more than happy to help you to the maximum: could have imagined the might like to explain what craft make a personalised selection. it’s worth much more than amount of love their venture beer is, but they do it in suitably it costs. would be met with. It’s been relaxed surroundings. BIERCAB SHOP fully booked from the Ɓ rst day, This was the state of play Muntaner, 55 thanks to an excellently chosen when the, perhaps inevitable, T. 644 689 045

GOOD FOOD ON A BUDGET

NEGRO CARBÓN LAS FERNÁNDEZ CAT BAR BOUZU ‘Tapas and tango’ may be their For the past six years, the three A petite bar-restaurant with A good place to try motto, but these Argentinians Fernández sisters from Castilla y León a vegan punk spirit – the authentic Japanese also serve stupendous barbecued have been in the heart of , walls look like Black cuisine tapas-style at very meat (this restaurant is one of offering an experience that combines Flag album covers attractive prices. No sushi the few places in Barcelona the produce of their land (in a range starring cats. The here, but they do have tofu, that can be described as an of dishes for sharing) with a deep lunchtime menu always pork dumplings and Japanese- authentic Argentinian red décor, a bit like an Almodóvar features a veggie burger (perhaps style fried chicken. Plus miso soup parrilla), and generous film. It’s quite small and has its the best in the city) and simple but with fermented soya pasta (red or white) burgers made from hardcore clientele, so book scrumptious dishes. They’re big into which, perhaps surprisingly to Western premium beef. well in advance. their beers, from Catalan craft to the tastes, is a popular breakfast dish in Japan. Pla de Palau, 16. Carretes, 11. punky bottled Scottish Brew Dog. Ronda de Sant Antoni, 26. T. 93 319 11 23 T. 93 443 20 43 Bòria, 17. T. 93 295 68 15 T. 93 443 32 26

56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Into the Ɓ re

excellent, as is the red prawn ceviche, the eel with all i pebre – a typical Valencian sauce, reflecting Toni’s roots in Castelló – served on a flat plate to show off the meat, and the odd-looking but delicious combination of baby squid with foie gras, a tightrope act that just strikes the right balance between spicy and citric. ‘It’s risky,’ says Carles, and suicidal if the flavours don’t gel. I accompany the meal with a JOAN PUIG JOAN Finca Argatans 2013, bottled for the house by the architect Alfredo Arribas. Blood-like wine The home-like tavern for primal dishes: warm steak tartare, grilled bone marrow The Suculent/ Taverna del Suculent duo is inspired by southern and tobiko roe, and a potato Spanish tapas, and gives new life to traditions. By Pau Arenós soufflé, warm and with a crunchy golden crust. Then The Taverna del Suculent serves Last year saw a tavern revival in because the two spaces share there’s the rice pudding, which upbeat ‘rumba cuisine’, the term the city. It’s as if Barcelona the same energy, and the same shakes up tradition with chef Xavi Codina invented to rediscovered the pleasures of antiquarian approach to food, coconut. What all their dishes describe his cooking at La Panxa marble bars and the wet circle left infused with modern techniques. have in common is a big hit of del Bisbe. On Thursday nights by a beer glass. Here, they pull The two places need each other. flavour, power and depth. you can hear the real thing, with decent cañas, unpasteurised Carles’s fondness for southern At the restaurant I run into singing, dancing and guitars Estrella, with the barrels above Spanish cooking comes out in the Carles’s mother, a sculptor, 81 strumming. ‘Catalan gypsies the heads of the clientele. The prawn and seaweed croquettes years old, a vivacious lady who come to play rumba. We cram 40 ideal plan is to start with tapas at (delicious but earthy), the cazón has just finished a family lunch. people into this tiny space.’ La Taverna and move on to en adobo – deep-fried dogfish in With enviable vigour, she’s Carles Abellan, king of the heavier dishes at Suculent, breadcrumbs – with a hint of heading to the studio to work on rumba and of the festive shirt – vinegar, the savoury potato Swiss her sculptures. It occurs to me and one half of the chef duo roll, and the stew of cockscombs, that if I have another helping of heading up this project – looks to WHAT ELSE? a dish to crow about. tartare and bone marrow, I might the south of Spain in this I move on to Suculent, where live to a ripe old age too. Casa, miniature tavern with its Don’t miss: Toni struts his stuff with ‘rustilux’ taverna – they’re words to warm smattering of bar stools. Chef The customised furniture, dishes – rustic and luxurious, the your heart. Words that evoke Toni Romero is in charge of the recycling done with style. spirit of the restaurant. Suculent memory, mother and the family. kitchen, as at the tavern’s sister Recommended for: is a place where many roads establishment, Suculent. Anyone with a hankering for meet, some local and some from SUCULENT/LA TAVERNA Delegating responsibility for the retro Spanish cooking. far away. The final surprise is the DEL SUCULENT food works only if the resident Stay away if: hare royale with foie tartare, as Rambla del Raval, 43 chef really knows what he’s The streets of the Raval make dark as sin. ‘Traditional home- T. 93 443 65 79 doing, and Toni, known as Tonet, you nervous. made food?’ I tease Carles, Suculent: €35 (not including really does. The third partner in seeing how a French classic has wine). Taverna del Suculent: €12 the venture is Javier Cotoruelo. hopped onto the menu. It’s (not including wine).

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 57 Food & Drink Start with just a few dishes – you can Tapas: the dishiest of them all always order Tapas bars are all over Barcelona – here we suggest where to head more later. for small plates of deliciousness. By Jan Fleischer

A CUT ABOVE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK WITH A BEER ON THE SIDE

CASA DE TAPES CAÑOTA LA TIETA BAR DEL PLA From the same stable as top Galician Good food (chickpeas with prawns, garlic Somewhere between a French bistro and a restaurant Rías de Galicia, this laid-back venue mushrooms) made from fresh ingredients, and tapas bar, try tapas such as pig’s trotters with serves traditional tapas. Lleida, 7. with skill and enthusiasm. Blai, 1. foie and Madrid beer Mahou. Montcada, 2.

TAPAS 24 LA ESQUINICA ELS SORTIDORS DEL PARLAMENT Nu-trad tapas using high-quality produce. The queues are testament to the quality; try Propped against a barrel, enjoy cured meats, Oxtail stew and cod croquettes join playful chocos (squid rings), llonganissa sausage and unusual tapas (quail egg omelette with black snacks like the McFoie Burger. Diputació, 269. tigres (stuffed mussels). Pg Fabra i Puig, 296. truffle oil) and six beers on tap. Parlament, 51.

TAVERNA DEL CLÍNIC LAS DELICIAS EL VASO DE ORO Hideous lighting, cheap décor, TV on non-stop, Close to Park Güell, their anchovies will make One of the best places to get a draught beer, yet the food can match many a luxury dining you forget your worries, while the squid, bravas their tapas such as meatballs with cuttlefish room (e.g. the octopus ‘igloo’). Rosselló, 155. et al come in generous portions. Muhlberg, 1. are a beer’s best friends. Balboa, 6.

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additives, at accessible prices. Catalan cuisine COCKTAILS & TAPAS Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. Jaume I (L4) 7 portes The eponymous Seven Doors Casa Mariol open on to as many dining At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, salons, all kitted out in elegant which is part of the bodega of the 19th-century décor. Long- same name, you’ll have the aproned waiters bring regional chance to get to know Suau, dishes, including a stewy Ɓsh which is a version of a drink (a zarzuela with half a lobster, a blend of soda and coffee) that different paella daily (shellƁsh, was popular in the Ribera de for example, or rabbit and l’Ebre region decades ago. You snails), a wide array of fresh can also taste cask wines from seafood, and heavier dishes the Ebre, accompanied by a nice such as herbed black-bean clotxa (bread stuffed with herring, stew with pork sausage, and onions, tomatoes and garlic), and orujo sorbet to Ɓnish. then top it all off with delicious Reservations are available only cakes from Batea (a town also in for certain tables; otherwise, the Ebre). get there early. Rosselló, 442. Passatge Isabel II, 14. High-class eats and drinks T. 93 436 76 28. T. 93 319 30 33. In the neighbourhood of Sant Gervasi, this newish Sagrada Família (L2,L5) Barceloneta (L4) tapas and cocktail bar manages to combine style and substance – along with their quality dishes, they have a Magatzem Escolà Agut It looks like a hoarder’s Barcelona has a wealth of spectacular list of vodkas, wines, gins and liquors. paradise of wine bottles, but eateries that have improved over Tuset, 20-24. T. 93 667 87 66. the shop’s staff know exactly the years. Many are back on the where everything is. You’ll Ɓnd a map after having been forgotten, great variety of products, which and some have the added bonus nuts, cuttleƁsh with artichokes, have two standout dishes: the is the result of a company that of having modernised without and perhaps the Ɓnest capipota and the oxtail. really knows its business and going over the top, to catch up macaroni in Barcelona. Sant Rafael, 24. has spent more than half a with the demand for the quality Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. T. 93 441 30 14. century dedicated to wine products that their clients want. Sant Gervasi (FGC) Paral·lel (L2,L3) distribution. Watch out for their One such case is Agut. wine tasting and cocktail Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. Gaig events. Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) It’s currently all the rage for Wine bars Comercial, 13. Barna’s top chefs to set up T. 93 167 26 55. Bar Velódromo more-affordable offshoots, and Bar Nostàlgic Barceloneta (L4) This classic serves quality dishes this one is under the guiding Although located in the from early morning until the wee hand of Carles Gaig. The Fonda fashionable Sant Antoni market Monvínic hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the Gaig schtick, like that at Petit area, this bar does not mimic This is one of the largest city’s masters in the kitchen) at Comitè, is a return to the Nordic aesthetic of most information centres for wine not the helm, they produce an grandmotherly Catalan basics, new local establishments. They only in Europe but the world over. endless succession of dishes and the favourite dish here is serve a good selection of It’s also a wine bar and and tapas that will teach you the canelons – hearty, steaming wines, particularly from restaurant. The latter – which about Catalonia’s gastronomic tubes of pasta Ɓlled with Catalonia, plus they have good focuses on traditional cuisine heritage. The full menu is shredded beef and topped with beer on tap and an impressive with a creative touch – is available all day, so if you fancy a fragrant béchamel. The list of gins, malt whiskies and excellent, by the way. some Iberian ham or capipota at various dining rooms manage special rums. Gin and tonics, Diputació, 249. 7am, or a croissant for a midnight to be both modern and spritz... they make it all, T. 93 272 61 87. snack, just say so. wonderfully comfortable. including tapas to please even Universitat (L1,L2) Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 60 22. Còrsega, 200. the most sybaritic palates. Hospital Clínic (L5) T. 93 453 20 20. Viladomat, 38. Sant Antoni (L2) Hospital Clínic (L5) Seafood Freixa Tradició Can Cisa/Bar Brutal The return of Josep Maria Freixa Casa Lepoldo This restored neighbourhood Els pescadors to his family home, now that Rosa Gil, the heart and soul of bar combines a classic bodega Josep Maulini and his wife have Ramón has gone off to enjoy this lovely eatery, has carried at the entrance with a wine bar turned this into a lovely spot, fame in Madrid, has resulted out a veritable revolution here, at the back. They stock 300 combining antique furniture with in an authentic festival of and with excellent results. The wines, all from organic or bio- modern décor, and retaining its traditional cuisine: pig’s cuisine has improved – which is dynamic producers around the air of a small-town bar. One trotters with prunes and pine really saying something. They world, without chemicals or delicious recommendation:

60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Food & Drink grilled sardines in sauce, though Piazze d’Italia they don’t always have them. Rice A temple of southern Italian SE Asian dishes are a staple on the menu, cuisine with an innovative and and never disappoint. provocative twist. The pizza Bangkok Cafè Plaça Prim, 1. chef makes the dough spin and Squeezed into a matchbox-sized T. 93 225 20 18. Poblenou (L4) dance above his Ɓngertips space, this tiny Thai restaurant before transforming it into an serves delicious curries with a Rías de Galicia outstanding crust. Dare to try genuinely Ɓery kick – and cool This restaurant is the setting for their sweet Nutella pizza, which Thai beers to quench the Ƃames. the Iglesias family’s wonderful is completely over the top, but With its few tables and high level relationship with the Ɓnest not to be missed. of success, make sure you seafood. The menu includes Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. reserve (way) in advance. Cantabrian lobster with garlic, Rocafort (L1) Evarist Arnús, 65. John Dory and txangurro crab T. 93 339 32 69. cannelloni. And when it’s Plaça del Centre (L3) in season, they have the Book your Tapas exquisite Bordeaux favourite Batik lamprey. restaurants at Bar del Pla A simple, unpretentious Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 timeout.com/ Positioned restaurant with lovely décor and 70. Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) barcelona somewhere between a wide selection of Indonesian, a French bistro and a Thai and Malaysian dishes. Try Tabarca Langosta’s Club tapas bar, the Bar del the €14 sampling menu and Tino Martínez, sailor and chef Pla serves tapas and small take a gastronomic tour. extraordinaire, has opened an plates (divine pig’s trotters with València, 454. unusual restaurant in foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). T. 93 231 60 15. Barcelona specialising in Drinks include Mahou on tap (a Sagrada Família (L2,L5) lobster: he has recovered the Ɓne beer, often ignored here recipes of the lobster Ɓshermen because it’s from Madrid), plus El Petit Bangkok from the island of Tabarca, and some good wines by the glass. Authentic Thai specialities he does so with a menu that Montcada, 2. include nem sausages and a includes lobster and rice T. 93 268 30 03. range of curries and wok cooked in the lobster stock. Jaume I (L4) dishes. Serious connoisseurs Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 of Thai food consider this one of 704. Universitat (L1,L2) El Jabalí the best restaurants in the city. This deli bar, which is Vallirana, 26. T. 616 185 196. reminiscent of Paral·lel in its Padua (FGC) Pizza heyday, is a great place to eat wonderful tapas – try the Gado Gado La Bella Napoli patatas bravas, the chicken In the Gothic quarter, the long- Is there anyone who doesn’t salad and the cured sausage – established Betawi is a popular know about these wonderful while sipping on good wine. It’s choice for Indonesian food, with pizzas? Get yours in the also a nice place to sit on the fresh spices and dishes that authentic Italian atmosphere, terrace and do some serious balance sweetness and heat. with noisy, cheerful waiters. people-watching. Their other restaurant, in Book a table if you’re going at Ronda Sant Pau, 15. Gràcia, also serves Thai the weekend. T. 93 441 10 82. specialities. Try the eponymous Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. Paral·lel (L2,L3) gado gado salad, with a rich Paral·lel (L2,L3) peanut sauce, or bakmi goreng, Tapas 24 traditional stir-fried noodles La Bricciola Another nu-trad tapas bar with egg and vegetables, or A real Italian trattoria with good focusing on quality produce. their delicious curries. pizzas and fantastic pasta. Among the oxtail stews, fried Or, 21. T. 93 179 85 58. Features a good wine list and prawns and cod croquettes, Joanic (L4) some great Italian grappa. however, fans of chef Carles Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. Abellan will also Ɓnd playful Mé Mercat Nou (L1) snacks more in keeping with Delicious Vietnamese and Thai his signature style. The McFoie specialities fused with other Murivecchi Burger is an exercise in fast- world cuisines, as in their This restaurant-trattoria is a food heaven, as is the bikini, a mackerel ceviche with daikon direct relative of Un Posto al Sol small version of his take on the radish and sprouts. Fantastic on C/Urgell, and they both make ham and cheese toastie. beef tartare with sweet basil and really good pizzas. Diputació, 269. matchstick fries. Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. T. 93 488 09 77. París, 162. T. 93 419 49 33. Jaume I (L4) Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) Diagonal (L3,L5) & Provença (FGC)

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn Techno that lands a punch WANT MORE? Hard techno masters Karenn and James Ruskin will take no prisoners when they play at Raz z this month. By Javier Blánquez

– only six recordings between 2011 and 2014 – were decisive. The Karenn Project consists of Arthur Cayzer – better known as Pariah, and originally part of the dubstep scene – and Jamie Roberts, who also goes by the name of Blawan, probably this JAMES RUSKIN decade’s most important producer Ruskin appears along with of hard, acid and epic techno. Surgeon, Ame and Planetary Everything they do is dynamite: Assault Systems at London’s loud, immense tracks that Studio Spaces E1 on April 2, after ruthlessly hit the body, and within headlining at Paris’s La Machine which you can Ɓnd subtle du Moulin Rouge on February 28. references to the minimal aspects

Everything they do is dynamite: immense tracks that ruthlessly hit the body of the Detroit sound, electro, old- BLAWAN school acid and tribal techno. It’s He makes his debut at the an on-off-on-again venture – both UK Field Maneuvers festival men are focusing on their solo (location unknown) in careers – but they’ve never entirely September, and will perform at abandoned it. Untitled (Sheworks Copenhagen’s Distortion festival 006), their 2014 EP, showed they at the beginning of June. still have the skill to set the

KAREEN danceƂoor alight with relentless rhythms of more than 130bpm. The year 2012 was an important the danceƂoor with powerful, Also on the bill is an English one for techno. Well, every year is rhythmic beats. This was replaced pioneer who is still very relevant, important as the genre is still very by a more skeletal, Ƃatter kind of as a producer, talent-spotter and much alive and kicking, capable of music, until we all suddenly born-and-bred DJ: James Ruskin. producing meaningful surprises. realised a shock to the system was Founder of the Blueprint label in But three years ago, it was possible needed. Karenn was one of the the mid-’90s, for two decades he to imagine an impending crisis: the most interesting acts to take up the has been at the forefront of a more sound had become perhaps too gauntlet, breaking new ground – industrial sound and committed to soft – it was all skin and bones with together with the vinyl series intensity, acting as a kind of guru, no muscle on it. One of the most Seldom Felt and Ancient Methods – who will give out lessons on force PARIAH popular techno genres some 10 in the way they revived the blasts and temperature at Razzmatazz. On February 21, Pariah will (and even 20) years ago was and metallic texture that had long Not a night for softies. headline at Le Dome in Torre San precisely the hardest sound, even been the MO of artists such as Patrizio on the east coast of Italy, though it was elastic at the same Regis and Surgeon. The EPs they Hard techno night followed by another series of time; a Ƃexible form of electronica produced on their own label, Works The Loft @ Razzmatazz. Karenn dates that include trips to capable of getting people going on The Long Nights, despite being few February 6, 12.30am Malta, Wales and Holland.

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Fri 13, 1am. €17 (on the Sessions HIS TRUE SELF door). €13 (advance). Price includes one drink. Nasty Mondays Tattoos, sweat and rock’n’roll: La Meccanica Sonora + Stay DJs the city’s wildest Monday-night Barcelona band that mixes up party. Don’t miss it. jazz and rock, psychedelic pop Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, and rock, appears on stage to 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon, present new album, Tesseract. midnight. €15 (on the door). Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, €14 (advance). 7). Sat 14, 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (online). Crappy Tuesdays Indie, electro pop, post punk Octave One live! and rock soundtrack this high- The Burden brothers have been energy club night. big on the techno scene for over Sala Apolo (details above). Tue, 15 years, from the time when midnight. €14 (on the door). their hit ‘I Believe’ was included €13 (advance). Price includes in the mega-compilation Techno one drink. 2: The Next Generation. Razzmatazz (details above). Sat Raw Rebels Tricky 14, 1am. €17 (on the door). €13 Dance to the best beats of the The trip hop maestro returns to promote his latest album, (advance). Price includes drink. ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local Adrian Thaws, baptised with the artist’s real name. The and international DJs. In the tenth disc to be recorded in his home studio, it features Fish heart of the city. The ex-Marillion singer has Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça some of his most characteristic sounds including electric forged a successful solo Reial, 7). Tue, 12.30am. €5. guitars and Jamaican rhythms, Thursday 12, 8.30pm. career, and in 2013 Price includes one drink. released Feast of Buy concert Consequences, his Caníbal Sound right up to the present day. you sign up on guest list. tickets at Ɓ rst album System Sala Apolo (details above). Thu, Price includes one drink. timeout.com/ following throat Live acts, DJs and roots music 12.30am. €10 (on the door). barcelona surgery in 2008. make for an underground vibe €8 (advance). Price includes one Sala Apolo (Nou de la at this long-running club night. drink. Live music Rambla, 113). Mon 16, Sala Apolo (details above). 7.30pm. €30 (on the door). Wed, 12.30am. €12 (on the The Bus Music Club The Frigolos & DJ Krusty Killer €25 (advance). door). €9 (advance). Price Session held every Thursday Ibiza rockabilly group The Frigolos includes one drink. that celebrates non- appear at this week’s Stash Fact presents: Craig Richards, commercial, non-mainstream R’n’R night to present their latest Adam Shelton and Fact Plástico and underground music. work, Hangover Sessions. resident Led by Jordi Gelpi and Josep Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Two of the most experienced Xortó and with regular guest Thu, midnight. €15 (on door). €13 113). Thu 5, 10pm. €10 (on door, British DJs touch down to show appearances, this is one of the (in advance). Price includes drink. includes one drink). €8 (advance). us the extent of their skill. city’s top mid-week night spots. Razzmatazz (details above). Fri Sidecar Factory Club (details Crit Amine Edge & Dance 20, 1am. €17 (on the door). €13 above). M: Liceu (L3). Wed, Weekly night of independent French duo bring their gangsta (advance). Price includes drink. 12.30am. €7. Price includes rock, hosted by Barcelona DJs house to The Loft. one drink. Hal9000, Víktor Ollé, Nacho Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). The Afghan Whigs Ruiz and Legoteque. Sat 7, 1am. €17 (on the door). The US band return to perform Anti-Karaoke Sidecar Factory Club (details €13 (advance). Price includes from Do The Beast, their Ɓ rst This is the hard rock version of above). Thu, 12.30am. €8 (on drink. album in 16 years. They broke up karaoke, where dressing up and the door, price includes one in 2001, had a brief revival in obsessive fans take to the FTKPM a YKVJƂ[GT  Ed Banger: Busy P & 2006, and re-reformed in 2012. stage run by MC, US comedian Boston Bun Sala Apolo (details above). €24. and actor, Rachel Arieff. Happy Techno The French electronic music label Sat 21, 8pm. Sidecar Factory Club (details The beat will get you at these shows off two of its acts. Busy P above). Thu, 10pm. €8. Price weekend parties dedicated to is Pierre Winter, the man behind Editors DJ set includes one drink. new-age and old-school dance Ed Banger and one-time manager Members of the Birmingham music, brought to you by local of Daft Punk, while Boston B is a indie group give us a new spin on Cupcake and international DJs. fan of old-school house, mixed their musical talents. Take a trip down memory lane City Hall (Rambla Catalunya, 2-4). up with acid, electro and the best Razzmatazz (details above). Sat without forgetting to live in the Sat, 12.30am. €12-€18 French sounds of recent times. 28, 1am. €17 (on the door). €13 moment, with hits from the ’70s depending when you arrive and if Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). (advance). Price includes drink.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 63 Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] LGBT @itramselas

Rita – she’s a hard-working dame Just months after opening in Barcelona, and following a successful 2014, ¡Que trabaje Rita! gears up for a fabulous Carnival season. By Martí Sales

In recent years, Barcelona’s LGBT districts – and while some are the eight-person team behind the they’re busy running Barcelona nightlife scene has undergone a afternoon-into-evening parties with Rita brand. Looking back over the Drag Race, a competition to find gradual transformation, moving free admission, others are all- party’s first year in Barcelona, he the city’s best drag artiste, based away from being centred on a few nighters with live music and says the critical moment came in on RuPaul’s hit TV show. It got off to particular clubs, to regular parties performances. May 2014, when they hosted an a bumpy start: originally supposed held at a range of venues with no appearance by Azúcar Moreno: a to be held at the El Latino club in specifically gay remit. huge crowd, a stunning show, and a the Teatre Principal, the city council The rise of Churros con general feeling of being in the best withdrew the venue’s licence 24 Chocolate, La Ká, La Melón, A huge crowd, a party in town. They put on a hours beforehand, forcing them to Diorama and ¡Que trabaje Rita! psychedelic Aids benefit attended find an alternative. Aragay says has represented a boost for a club stunning show, by none other than Latin Grammy– moving the event from one location scene that was starting to look a and a feeling of winning superstar Miguel Bosé, to another at the last minute was little jaded. who treated party-goers to a chaotic to say the least. The parties share an anything- being in the best tongue-in-cheek lip-synched This month they’re dusting off goes, up-for-it attitude, a sense of party in town performance at the night’s end. their wigs, shining their heels and humour and a determination to rehearsing their samba shimmy for surprise and break the mould. ¡Que trabaje Rita! (Let Rita work!) Ups and downs their Carnival extravaganza. The Almost all of them are designed began in Madrid and was imported Rita’s closing party for Pride Carnival Riteiro hits Sala Apolo at with a mixed crowd in mind – a sign to Barcelona in October 2013, Barcelona 2014, at Sant Jordi 6pm on Sunday February 15. of the increasing presence of LGBT becoming an immediate success. Club, was also a hit. They launched club nights across the city’s Marçal Aragay (35 years old, Rita Deluxe at La Discothéque in ¡Que trabaje Rita! will nightlife panorama, an extension of bearded, a geologist, and an Poble Espanyol, drawing remind you that you too once the Gaixample to all the city’s ex-waiter at Canigó) is a member of enthusiastic crowds, and now danced to the Birdie Song.

64 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Getaways Celebrating winter traditions This February isn’t just about Carnival: there’s also Manresa’s medieval market, the winter fair in Molins de Rei and black gold up in the Pyrenees. By Nick Chapman

1 2

3 4 1. Sweets Ƃy in Vilanova i la Geltrú 2. Manresa celebrates its medieval heritage 3. Livestock at the Fira de la Candelera 4. Black trufƂes from Berguedà AJUNTAMENT DE MOLINS REI AJUNTAMENT

1. Carnival! processions, music, fancy dress, bustling 14th-century city, with folk dancing, theatre and concerts. It’s Carnival time, when towns all and the Beiembam, a pitched battle market stalls, craft demos, www.candelera.cat. Feb 1 over the Barcelona region celebrate fought with Ƃour. dancing, acrobats and jugglers, and with their own unique traditions. Sitges, Feb 12-18; Vilanova i la crowds of people in medieval attire. $GTIWGF¼6TWHƂG(CKT The Sitges Carnival is the most Geltrú, Feb 12-18; Sallent, Feb www.aixada.cat. Feb 28 & Mar 1 The black or Périgord trufƂe is a famous, attracting thousands of 12-18; Torelló, Feb 8-Mar 5 culinary treasure, harvested from visitors to a festival of 3. Fira de la Candelera the roots of oak trees in autumn transgressive revelry. Vilanova i la 2. Fira de l’Aixada Molins de Rei Ɓrst held its annual and winter, and in the Pyrenees it’s Geltrú’s Carnival dates back 250 Manresa’s Fira de l’Aixada fair, La Fira de la Candelera, in both found in the wild by trained years, turning the world on its head commemorates the ‘miracle of the 1852. Since then it has grown to dogs, and cultivated. This fair, at with satirical sermons and the light’ of February 21, 1345, when a become a multifaceted winter former textile colony Cal Rosal, annual sweety Ɓght in the square. mysterious light from Montserrat festival, but at heart it’s still an old- celebrates all aspects of the Inland, Torelló celebrates with Les entered the Church of Carme, fashioned agricultural show with region’s black gold, with cookery Senyoretes, in which girls dress as ending the city’s conƂict with the livestock, tractors and gardening workshops, tastings, and contests boys and vice versa. Finally, Bishop of Vic over the canal that stalls selling trees and plants. to Ɓnd the best trufƂe, the most Sallent’s Carnival attracts visitors brought much-needed water to the There’s also Molins de Rei’s 35th creative young chefs and the trufƂe- from the whole Bages county, with city. The narrow streets of the old wine and beer festival, with hunting dog with the Ɓnest nose. town are transformed into a tastings and pairings, as well as YYYƁTCFGNCVQHQPCECV(GD

www.barcelonaesmoltmes.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 65 Barcelona

Top Ten Even those residents who try to 1 go about their lives without Bicing getting involved in football – a The ‘dring’ of bike bells is Noises major challenge – always know getting ever louder now that this about a Barça goal thanks to the mode of transport has made a screeches, car horns and mega comeback here, thanks to Ɓrecrackers that Ɓll the streets. the Bicing rental system and a growing number of bike lanes. With all the roadworks going on 7 at the moment, the (often loud) Celobert Ɓght for space on the streets This inner atrium that many has become part of the daily Barcelona buildings have means routine. Close your eyes and you that neighbours can have a could be in Amsterdam – just much closer relationship than without the weed. they might wish for. Family arguments, what’s for supper and who hasn’t managed to quit 2 smoking are just some of the Librarians’ shushes intimacies shared through this A lot more people are using their common space. local library, which means those in charge of maintaining the silence have had to come up with 8 new ways to achieve their goal. Rubbish trucks Particularly from 5pm, when The sound of waste collection schoolchildren invade, 1 has become increasingly

ostensibly to do their homework. MASONOVO ALBERTO sophisticated. Before the age of recycling, it was just the lorries suddenly accelerating and 3 shouts of the binmen chucking in Butaners the bags. Now there’s selective These men who sell gas bottles collection, incredible noise door to door are a Barcelona explosions are the norm, classic, much to the chagrin of especially when the glass national supplier, Gas Natural. container is emptied at great The gasmen announce their height into the recycling vehicle. presence by repeatedly banging a cannister, a sound that helps sales but creates aural anguish. 9 It’s always the same noise but Brazilian parrots the sellers are of various The poor sparrows of Barcelona. nationalities, coming from some So small and discreet, they must of the world’s poorest countries 3 curse the jungle shriek of these to do this thankless task. invading green birds who have nested in the city’s surviving Ɓrst sound of the day is the metal palm trees. It’s impossible to 4 shutters going up on bars and ignore the parrots, and now even ‘Cerveza’, ‘beer’, ‘birra’ shops. If it’s a gentle sound, then the pigeons have started trying Being a multilingual vendor of all is well with the world and it’s to imitate their hysterical cries. beer cans is also a tough job, as usually a Saturday. But if it’s a well as illegal and controlled by harsh, angry noise, then the maƁas. The endlessly repeated opener is venting their rage on 10 words have become a key part the security shades. Clearly Encants of Barcelona’s night-time wishing they were still in bed. To hear a commercial racket, the soundtrack. Don’t ask where Encants Nous Ƃea market is they store the cans or you might ideal. Although the regular choke on your brew. 6 markets come a close second Barça goal on the soundometer, and all Messi shoots. He scores! For those high street clothes shops 5 how much longer at Camp Nou, are hardly cloistered convents. Shutters in the morning we don’t know, but at such times, 8 In some neighbourhoods the the city gives a collective cheer. By Ada Castells

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