Streetsmart 10 Filmmaking 14 Festival of Music 13 Refugee Film Week 19 Storyboard Epic Arts 22 Streetsmart: Sothearos Boulevard Home to royalty, Sothearos Boulevard is one of the city’s most interesting thoroughfares. Liz Ledden traverses its length finding great Asian eateries, diverse furniture options and storyboard some of ’s most significant buildings.

04 photo by Keith Kelly The picturesque parkland 2. Up to You 4. The Royal Palace and video cameras (US$3 and at the heart of Sothearos, hous- 3 Sothearos Blvd Sothearos Blvd US$5 respectively). The opening ing the -Vietnam This tiny NGO retail outlet sells A picture of glittering gold and hours are from 7am to 11am and memorial, is pristine in parts, a small selection of fair trade Cambodian heritage, the Royal 2.30pm to 5pm, and it’s closed home to squatters in others. The handicraft products, mostly Palace is Sothearos Boulevard’s for some holidays and func- contradiction continues down silks. Very good quality silk – and for that matter Phnom tions. Some parts of the grounds Sothearos, as Japanese restau- scarves coloured with natural Penh’s – focal point and high- are off limits to visitors – it’s rants sit side-by-side with local dyes sell for US$12-14, and light. Constructed in 1866 under easy to forget that this is still an noodle shops. Further down, there’s also a small selection the reign of King Norodom, the active palace, not just a tourist upmarket I-Ching shares a street of handbags and lampshades. palace has undergone renova- attraction. with some of Phnom Penh’s Purchase silk by the metre for tions and received additions in best bargain furniture finds. The US$10, or watch the in-house tai- more recent times, including the 5. Thury Restaurant boulevard also sees visitors by lors create your own silk outfit. Silver Pagoda and the Napo- 176 Sothearos Blvd the busload embarking daily There’s also a comprehensive leon building. The palace costs This slightly upmarket Khmer to marvel at the beautiful and catalogue of clothing styles to US$2 per person to enter, with and western restaurant features ornate Royal Palace. choose from. extra charges for still cameras Cambodian favourites and an

1. Ounalom 3. Bohr’s Books Sothearos Boulevard 5 Sothearos Blvd (near corner Street 154) A small second-hand book shop This large, centrally located wat offering excellent value for mon- is said to be the country’s most ey, the books are in very good significant. A believed condition, and are often cheaper to hold Buddha’s eyelash is on than similar dealers around the grounds, along with many town. In addition to all the previ- statues and items resurrected ously loved books is a small and reconstructed following the selection of new photocopied Khmer Rouge’s ransacking of books going beyond the usual the place. Despite its very central Cambodia-based tales. Contem- location at the heart of the river- porary best sellers recently for front, the wat is a serene place to sale here include Freakonomics wander around and explore, ex- and Fast Food Nation, priced at cept on religious holidays when US$3.50, with some other titles it is a bustle of commotion. selling for only US$3. 05

10 Asialife Phnom penh | #06 June 2007 storyboard 06 storyboard

09 even wider range of internation- Service is discreet with staff 6pm to 9pm, and if the dance air-conditioned eatery with co- al dishes. Soups, salads, burgers, making well-timed visits to music gets too loud there’s lourful, whimsical décor. Snacks pizzas and steak all feature, replenish drinks, and the food streetside seating as well. such as banh xeo (fried pancakes with rib-eye and t-bone steak at is excellent. The extensive menu stuffed with pork and shrimp) US$12 with a choice of side and includes sashimi, edamame, 10. Kid’s World go for US$4.50, and typical Viet- sauce. The wood-fired pizzas in- gyoza, mackerel and croquettes, 112Eo Sothearos Blvd namese salads, soups and meat clude a seafood option with most all of which are authentic and Another recent addition to dishes average US$5.50 a dish. priced at US$6 or just under. delicious. A large meal with a Sothearos, Kid’s World opened At US$3 the beef pho is a little The Khmer dishes range from group sharing more than enough in early 2007 and is a small, pricier than average, however US$4 to US$6.50 and include fish dishes to satisfy works out at colourful, well-organised shop. the service and ambience make amok and beef luk lak. around US$12 a head, including Claiming to have the exclusive this a pleasant lunch option. drinks. rights to sell Lego in Cambo- 6. Origami dia, it also has a line of baby 12. Phnom Penh Centre 88 Sothearos Boulevard 8. Korean Restaurant CoCo products called ‘Nuk’, includ- Corner of Sothearos and Sihanouk Stylish and serene, this Japanese 88 Sothearos Blvd ing baby bottles and sterilizing Consisting predominantly of restaurant is a refined choice for Eclectically numbered the same equipment. office-based businesses, Phnom a memorable meal. Set in a nice- as Origami, the other number Huge box sets of Lego pirate Penh Centre is a handy stop-off ly restored villa, the restaurant 88 is a recent addition to the ships and build-your-own Fer- point for computer enthusi- has great sushi and sashimi and Sothearos restaurant strip. Not raris are available, great for kids asts. The ground floor Anana good deal box sets of Japanese the cheapest eatery around, the Christmas presents or even for Computer is an excellent source favourites. The ramen noodles interior features a few private F-1 fans who can’t afford the real of not only new computers, but are authentic and tasty, and rooms and a curtained-off sec- thing. In the store is a table with memory sticks, headphones, along with the delicious food the tion, with fairly basic décor. Lego pieces to play with and printers, ink cartridges and ambience and service are very Most dishes are either US$10 relive some childhood memories. the like. Reputable brands for good. Dinner works out on aver- or US$15 including beef soup sale include Sony, Toshiba and age at US$10-15 a person. with mushrooms and fried 11. An Nam Hewlett Packard, and next door Held in high esteem by Phnom chicken pieces (with Korean 118 Sothearos Boulevard is a computer repair centre if Penh’s Japanese community, herbs and ingredients), with a Good quality Vietnamese cuisine you’re unfortunate enough to one nearby Japanese restaurant few US$6 snacks such as Korean is available at An Nam, a small, need it. The centre also is the owner hails it the best quality sushi and noodle soup. It is Japanese eatery in the city. something different in an area known more for its Japanese 7. Himajin restaurants. 84 Sothearos Boulevard Entering Himajin is like entering 9. Q Bar a charming home filled with hid- 96 Sothearos Boulevard den little rooms and crammed This new bar is fast gaining bookshelves. This traditional popularity as a late night venue style Japanese eatery offers playing good house and dance separate rooms for each group of music in an intimate atmo- diners, all wood panelled with sphere. Veering away from the bench seating around a central hostess bar scene – most of the table. Beware though that the bartenders are guys – Q Bar is a dividing walls are thin, so if you cross between a dance club and a have a group getting stuck into small cocktail bar. the sake next door you may be in Early customers can partake in for a boisterous night. the generous happy hour from 12

#06 June 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 11 storyboard storyboard 15 17 home of internet provider Ang- Most of the menu is around Across the road is Dara’s, anoth- kor Net. US$1 to US$3, with the US$1.50 er business that brings furniture pad thai being a particularly in from the provinces, often in a 13. Lucky Seven good deal for a quick, bargain state of disrepair, and fixes them Corner of Sothearos and Sihanouk priced meal. up to inject new life. Don’t forget (in front of Phnom Penh Centre) to delve down into the dusty, A local place with great gelato, 15. I Ching Decor cobwebbed rear of these shops, Lucky Seven is well worth a pit 85 Sothearos Blvd as you’ll never know what you stop, particularly in the heat of Heading further south is one of may uncover. the day. The gelato counter is Phnom Penh’s most prominent beautifully presented, with each furniture and interiors shops. In 17. Wicker market flavour (such as hazelnut and its relatively new premises – it Southern end of Sothearos Blvd, mint chocolate) having decora- used to be just off the riverfront junction with Monivong tive touches on top, be it wafers, in Street 178 up until late 2006 The strip of small shops just be- nuts, strawberries or chocolate – I Ching stocks contemporary fore the junction with Monivong sauce. Prices range from 90 cents furniture and homewares, and is the place for all things wicker for one scoop in a small cup, updated versions of classic Chi- in Phnom Penh. Expat home to US$1.70 for a medium and nese antiques. décor enthusiasts, guesthouse US$2.40 for a large. Particularly good buys are and bar owners and locals alike The fast food restaurant also the home accessories, which flock to this strip of wickerware has a main counter with McDon- are more contemporary than shops at Sothearos’ southern alds-like food, including chicken any available in the markets. end. Chairs, tables, baskets, shoe nuggets, sandwiches and ice- Glasses come in many different racks, hat stands, ottomans and cream sundaes, with most items colours including ranges of more can be found in this strip in the US$1 to US$2.50 range. purple, yellow and turquoise of stalls. The third counter is LucKafe, glassware, with pieces from This is the cheapest way to with coffees, doughnuts and US$4 each. In addition to furnish your place. Three- other enticing baked treats for retail, I Ching offers tiered shoe stands go for only 50 cents. This is an excellent an interior design US$3 to US$4 and simple place for great dessert on the consulting service. wicker chairs often cheap and its ANZ ATM is con- for around US$5. venient if heading to any nearby 16. Second-hand A bamboo three- shops for a spree. antique shops seater lounge frame Southern end of costs from US$7 to 14. U-Shop and Sothearos Blvd US$16 depending U-Shop restaurant Just before reach- which store you go 43 Sothearos Boulevard ing the street’s to – shopping around Across from Lucky Seven lies a renowned wicker is key here. Huge floor 7-11 style convenience store open shops are a few mats go for around 24 hours, with an adjoining Thai wooden furniture US$10 to US$12. Most restaurant. The convenience store dealers, with antiqui- of these places accept is one of the few in the city open ties sourced from a bit of bargaining, all night long, so is perfect for a all over the country. particularly if snack or cold drink at any hour. Look for the sign say- buying multiple At its restaurant next door, ing “Selling strange, pieces, and they

you can view the staff busy at ancient furniture” can tailor make photo by Keith Kelly Keith by photo work behind a big glass window and uncover amazing cushions to fit preparing fresh ingredients to coffee tables, cabinets any seat- make their curries, soups, stir- and wardrobes at ing pur- fries, and rice and noodle dishes. really good prices. chased.

12 Asialife Phnom penh | #06 June 2007