© Lonely Planet Publications 365 Index

A artwork 318 boat trips 88, 183, 190, 191, 214, 216, accommodationABBREVIATIONS 305-6, see also ATMs 315 234-5, 240, 288, 306 individualACT Australian locations Capital Boeng Tonlé Chmar Ramsar Area Territory activities 306-7, see also individual B 270 NSW New South Wales activities Ba Phnom 279-80 Boeng Yeak Lom 296 NT Northern Territory aid organisations, see bag snatching 78, 122, 196, 311 Bokor Hill Station 221-2, 7 Qld Queensland nongovernmental organisations Bakong 174 Bokor Palace 221 SA South Australia AIDS 40, 345 Baksei Chamkrong 168 bombing 33, 277, 279, 298 Tas Tasmania air travel bamboo train (norry) 237, 247, 338, bombs 12, 34, 312, see also land Vic Victoria airlines 324-6 4, 8 mines, unexploded ordnance WA Western Australia carbon offset schemes 325 Ban Lung 292-6, 293 Bon Om Tuk 19 to/from 136-7, 324-7 255-6, 203 books 52 within Cambodia 137, 333-4 Banteay Kdei 169 53, 146 Aki Ra 124 Banteay Meanchey Province 252-6 cooking 63, 64 American War, see Vietnam War Banteay Samré 173 history 25, 28, 32, 38, 43, 44 amoc 63, 64, 97 Banteay Srei 175-6 Khmer Rouge 16, 35, 36 amoebic dysentery 348 Banteay Top 256 travel literature 17, 119 Andong Meas 297 Baphuon 163-4 border crossings 233, 328-32 Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve 139 Baray 274 Botum Sakor National Park 190-1

Angkar 36, 45 bargaining 315-16 Bou Sraa 303 INDEX Angkor 140-79, 142-3, see also bas-reliefs bowling 88 individual temples, temples, 157-61 50, 86-7, 144-5, 204 archaeology 147, 148 Banteay Chhmar 255 bus travel 327, 335 architecture 148 Bayon 161-3 road distances chart 336 books 53, 146 Phnom Bayong 231 scams 330 food 150 Wat Ek Phnom 246 to/from 246 history 140-7 bathrooms 149, 320 to/from 110 itineraries 149-52 Battambang 240-46, 242, 7 to/from 137 kings 141 Battambang Museum 241 to/from 211-12 maps 149 240-50 business hours 307-8, see also inside symbols 156 Bayon 161-3, 162, 5 front cover tours 152 beaches butterflies 126, 131, 213-14 travel around 152-4 Botum Sakor 190 when to visit 151 Coconut Beach 224 C Angkor Borei 230-1 Hawaii Beach 197 Cambodia Land Mine Museum 124-5 Angkor National Museum 123 Independence Beach 198 Cambodian Cultural Village 124 28, 144, 145, 159-65, Kep Beach 224 Cambodian People’s Party (CPP) 40, 160 Koh Pos Beach 197 41, 42, 43, 49 Angkor Wat 154-9, 155, 202 Krong 183 Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship animals 57-9, see also individual Lamherkay Beach 197 Monument 87 animals Otres Beach 197 car travel 327, 335-8 animism 50 Prek Treng Beach 198 checkpoints 310 Anlong Veng 258-61, 260 Victory Beach 197 driving licence 335 antiques 317-18 begging 82, 122, 309-10 hire 335 archaeology 147, 148 Beng Mealea 178-9, 179 insurance 337 architecture 53 Bengal florican 270 road conditions 337 Angkorian 148 bird-watching 58, 138, 188, 189-90, road distances chart 336 colonial 241, 287 191, 213, 267, 270, 306 road rules 337-8 Artisans d’Angkor 123-4 birds 58, see also individual birds safety 336 arts 51-5, see also individual arts boat travel 109-10, 137, 327-8, 334 Cardamom Mountains 238-9 366 Index (C-H)

caves 207 courses 309 etiquette 45, 47, 68-9 Bat Cave 219 cooking 69, 88, 125, 198, 241-3, exchange rates, see inside front cover Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau 309 249 language 309 F Phnom Banan 248 credit cards 316 fax services 319 Phnom Chhnork 218-19 crocodiles 115, 132, 184, 186, 190, festivals 19 Phnom Sor 223 209, 247 films 54-5, see also cinema Phnom Sorsia 219 culture 44-55 Apocalypse Now 33, 298 Rung Damrey Saa 219 clothing 45-6, 47 Bophana 54, 85-6 cell phones 320 ethnic groups 48 The Killing Fields 34, 55, 87, 96, Central Cardamoms Protected Forest etiquette 45, 47, 68-9 106, 279 238-40 currencies 316 Tomb Raider 55, 160, 161, 167, Central Market, see Psar Thmei customs, see etiquette 360 Centre for Khmer Studies 123 customs regulations 309 Two Brothers 55, 58, 178, 360 Chaa Ong 296 cycling 138, 153, 191, 212, 306-7, fishing 188 Cham people 49 334 floating villages Chat Preah Nengkal 19 cyclos 112, 113, 338 Chong Kneas 139 Chau Say Tevoda 170 Chong Kos 234 Chau Srei Vibol 175 D Koh Kapi 188 Chaul Chnam Chen 19 Dak Dam Waterfall 303 Koh Trong 285 Chaul Chnam Khmer 19 damming 62 Kompong Khleang 139 Chea Sim 43, 280 dance 52, 107, 243 Kompong Phhluk 139 checkpoints 310 dangers 309-12, see also land mines, Phoum Kandal 234 Cheung Kok 283 unexploded ordnance (UXO) flooding 83 Chey Yuthearith 220 Phnom Penh 78, 81-3 food 63-4, 348 Chhep 267 Siem Reap 122-3 cooking courses 69 Chheu Tiel Ploch Krom Sihanoukville 196 customs 66, 68-9 INDEX 285 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 343 for children 67-8 Chheu Tok Cascades 239 dehydration 348-9 markets 66 Chheu Tom 237 dengue 344 restaurants 66, 67 Chhlong 287-8 Dharanindravarman II 28 special occasions 66 Chhrok Preal Forest 239 diarrhoea 347-8 spiders 283 Chhuk Laeng Cascades 237 dirt biking 307 steet stalls 66 Chi Phat 191-2, 192 disabilities, travellers with 321 vegetarian travellers 67 children, abuse of 82, 100, 322 diving 183, 191, 198, 307 vocabulary 69-71 children, travel with 67-8, 91, 126, Documentation Center of Cambodia French embassy 87 308 85 Funcinpec 38, 40, 41, 43 Chinese people 49 dolphins 58, 183, 188, 214, 285, 288, fungal infections 344-5 Choam Ksant 268 289, 290 Choeung Ek Killing Fields 86 dragonfish 58, 190 G Chong Kneas 139 drinks 64-6, 350 gay travellers 313 Christianity 51 drugs 315 gem mines 296 Chruoy Changvar Bridge 87 DVT (deep vein thrombosis) 343 geography 56 chunchiet, see hill tribes giant ibis 58, 267 Chunchiet Cemeteries 296 E giardiasis 348 cinema 54-5, 106-7 Eastern Baray 172-3 go-carting 88 climate 14, 308, 309 Eastern Mebon 172-3 gold mines 303 clothing 318 economy 12-13, 46 golf 88, 125, 307 Coconut Beach 224 electricity 216, 306 Governor’s Residence (Battambang) consulates 312-13 elephant rides 86, 153, 168, 292, 302 241 costs 14-15 elephants 58 gymnasiums 88, 198 embassies 312-13 000 Map pages environmental issues 60-2, see also H 000 Photograph pages individual entries handicrafts 54 ethnic groups 48-9 Harshavarman I 168 Index (H-K) 367

Hawaii Beach 197 intestinal worms 345 history 32-3 health 341-50 Irrawaddy dolphins 58, 183, 188, in Phnom Penh 73, 85-6, 87 heatstroke 349 288, 290 trials 42-3 helicopter travel 153, 334 Isanavarman I 26 kickboxing 184 hepatitis 345 Islam 49, 50 Kien Svay 113 hiking 297, see also trekking islands Killing Dam (Kamping Poy) 249 Kampot Province 214, 221-2 Koh Kaong Kang 198 Killing Fields of Choeung Ek 86 189-90, 191 Koh Khteah 213 Kinchaan 296 Takeo Province 231 Koh Kong Island 188 kings of Angkor 141, see also hill tribes 49, 296, 300 Koh Paen 281 individual monarchs 50, 141, 145-6, 155-6, 169 Koh Pos 197, 227 116-17 history 25-43, see also Khmer Rouge Koh Prins 198 Kirivong Waterfall 231 Angkorian period 27-8, 140-6 213 Knong Krapeur 190 books 25, 28, 32, 35, 36, 38, 43, 44 Koh Rong Samlon 213 Koh Kaong Kang 198 Chams in Cambodia 145, 161-3 Koh Rung Samloem 198 264-5, 202 period 26-7 213 Koh Khteah 213 French rule 73 191 Koh Kong Conservation Corridor 24, Funan period 26 Koh Svai 227 186-93 Phnom Penh 73-5 Koh Ta Khieu 213 Koh Kong Island 188, 189 prehistoric times 25 Koh Tang 198 Koh Kong Province 182-93 recent history 40-3 Koh Tas 198 Koh Kong Safari World 184 Thais in Cambodia 29, 119, 146 Koh Tonsay 227, 207 Koh Nhek 304 UN in Cambodia 37, 38-40 Koh Trong 285 Koh Paen 281 Vietnam War 30-5 itineraries 20-4 Koh Pos 197, 227

Vietnamese in Cambodia 29, 36-8 Angkor 149-52 Koh Pos Beach 197 INDEX WWII 30, 240 Phnom Penh 77 Koh Prins 198 hitching 338 Koh Rong 213 HIV 40, 345 J Koh Rong Samlon 213 holidays 19, 313 Japanese B Encephalitis 345 Koh Rung Samloem 198 homestays 306 Japanese Bridge 87 Koh Russei 213 Battambang Province 240 Jayavarman II 27, 140-1, 177 Koh Sampoach Beach 214 Koh Kong Province 116, 189, 191 Jayavarman IV 141 Koh Sdach 191 Kompong Cham Province 282 Jayavarman V 141, 164, 169, 176 214 Kompong Thom Province 274 Jayavarman VII 28, 44, 141, 145, 159, Koh Svai 227 Mondulkiri Province 298, 301, 303 161, 164, 165, 169, 170, 256 Koh Ta Khieu 213 Oddar Meanchey Province 256 jet lag 343-4 Koh Tang 198 Pursat Province 239 Koh Tas 198 Stung Treng Province 290 K 214 horse riding 116, 125 Ka Tieng 292, 296 Koh Tonsay 227, 207 hot springs 238 Kachon 296 Koh Trong 285 hot-air balloon rides 154 Kamping Poy (Killing Dam) 249 Kompong Cham 280-3, 281 Hun Sen 37, 40-3, 197, 199, 258, 259, Kampot 215-18, 215 Kompong Cham Province 280-5 280, 282 Kampot Province 214-24 Kompong Chhnang 234-6, 235 Kbal Chhay Cascades 214 Kompong Chhnang Province 234-6 I Kbal Spean 176-7 Kompong Khleang 139 Ieng Sary 37, 41, 43, 291, 297 Kep 224-7, 225 Kompong Phhluk 139 Independence Beach 198 Kep Beach 224 Kompong Som, see Sihanoukville Independence Monument 87 224-5 Kompong Som Province 193-214 Indravarman I 27, 141, 173-4, 174 Khieu Samphan 42, 250, 258 Kompong Thom 270-2, 271 insect bites 349 Khmer Krom people 48 Kompong Thom Province 270-4 insurance 313-14 Khmer Leu people 49, 291 Kompong Trach 223-4 internet access 314 48 koupreys 58, 297 internet resources 18 Khmer Rouge 221, 240, 248, 249, 258, kramas 15, 36, 280, 284 Phnom Penh 76 259, 277, 284, 297 Kratie 285-7, 286 responsible travel 17 books 16 Kratie Province 285-8 368 Index (K-P)

Krong Kep 224-7 Miniature Replicas of Angkor’s Preah Vihear Protected Forest 267 Krong Koh Kong 182-6, 183 Temples 124 Bird Sanctuary 138-9 Krong Pailin 250-2 mobile phones 320 213 Kru Krom grasslands 270 Mondulkiri Protected Forest 303, Southern Cardamoms Protected Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctuary 267 206 Forest 189, 238-40 Mondulkiri Province 298-304 Virachay National Park 297-8 L money 14-15, 312, 315 Neak Luong 279 Lamherkay Beach 197 Monivong, King 30 newspapers 49, 306 land mines 38, 258 Monorom Falls 302-3 Nhiem Chun 167 museum 124-5 motion sickness 343-4 Nol, Lon, see Lon Nol warnings 123, 149, 177, 221, 250, motorcycle travel 327, 335-8 nongovernmental organisations 256, 264, 265, 266, 268 checkpoints 310 (NGOs) 58, 124, 186, 272 language 69-71, 351-7 driving licence 335 restaurants 67, 102 L’Bak Kamronh Rapids 239 hire 336-7 shops 108, 136 legal matters 314 insurance 337 norry 237, 247, 338, 4, 8 Les Chantiers Écoles Silk Farms 124 road conditions 337 Norodom Ranariddh, Prince 43 lesbian travellers 313 road distances chart 336 Norodom Sihanouk, King 30, 37, 43, literature 17, 53 road rules 337-8 44, 55 logging 60-1, 238 safety 336, 337 North Kleang 165 lorry, see norry Sihanoukville 212 Nuon Chea 42, 43, 250, 258 Lolei 174 motos 112, 113, 213, 338 Lon Nol 32-5 Mouhot, Henri 146-7 O Lumkut Lake 297 mountain biking 191, 290, 307, 334 O Smach 257 Lumphat 298 museums O Svay 290 Luu Meng 97 Angkor National Museum 123 Occheuteal Beach 196 Battambang Museum 241 Odar Rapids 239 M Cambodia Land Mine Museum Oddar Meanchey Province 256-61 INDEX magazines 306 124-5 Old French Lighthouse 281-2 mail services 317 National Museum 84-5 Olympic Stadium 88 malaria 345-6 Tuol Sleng Museum 85-6 Ondong Rossey 235 maps 76, 314 music 52-3 Otres Beach 197 markets 66, 109, 308 outboards 338 Angkor Night Market 136 N ox-cart rides 249, 265, 274 Phnom Penh Night Market 109 National Centre for Khmer Ceramics Psar Chaa (Phnom Penh) 109 Revival 124 P Psar Chaa (Siem Reap) 131, 136 National Library 88 Pailin 250-2, 251 Psar O Russei 109 National Museum 84-5 painting 54 Psar Olympic 109 national parks & wildlife reserves pangolins 189, 219, 252 Psar Pailin 251 59-60 passports 324, see also visas Psar Ta Pang 96 Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve P’chum Ben 19 Psar Thmei 109 139 Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary Psar Tuol Tom Pong 109 Botum Sakor National Park 190 187-8 massage 89, 125, 198, 243 Kep National Park 224 Peuy Ta Mok 260 medical insurance 314 Kirirom National Park 116-17 Pheam Ek 247 medical services 344, see also Phnom Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctu- Phimeanakas 164 Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville ary 267 56 Mekong mud turtles 285 Mondulkiri Protected Forest 303 Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary 238 Mekong River 56, 57, 62, 73, 288, Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary Phnom Bakheng 168, 168 290, 208 187-8 Phnom Banan 247-9 Memot 284-5 Phnom Aural Wildlife Phnom Bayong 231 Mimong 303-4 Sanctuary 238 Phnom Bok 175 Phnom Samkos Wildlife 116 000 Map pages Sanctuary 239 Phnom Da 230-1 000 Photograph pages Phnom Tamao Wildlife Phnom Krang Dai Meas 235 Sanctuary 115 Phnom Krapeu 249 Index (P-S) 369

Phnom Krom 174-5 prahoc 63, 97 responsible travel 15-17, 62, 300 Phnom Kulen 177-8 Prasat Andet 273 carbon offset schemes 325 Phnom Penh 72-117, 74-5, 79, 6 Prasat Krau Romeas 177 etiquette 45, 47, 68-9 accommodation 91-6 169 internet resources 17 activities 88-90 Prasat Neak Buos 268 Rithy Panh 54, 77, 85-6 addresses 75, 76 Prasat Preah Vihear 268-70, 269, 4 River of a Thousand Lingas 176-7 banks 78 Prasat Rong Chen 177 road rules 337-8 dangers 78, 81-3 Prasat Suor Prat 165 road safety 311-12, 336, 337 drinking 104-6 Prayuvong Buddha factories 88 Roluos Temples 173-4 emergency services 76 Pre Rup 173 Romanear II 303 entertainment 106-7 (Angkor) 170-1, 171 Romanear Waterfall 303 food 96-104 Preah Khan (Preah Vihear) 262-4, rotei ses 339 history 73-5 263 Royal Enclosure 164 internet access 76-7 Preah Ko 174 Royal Palace 83-4, 84, 7 itineraries 77 Preah Neak Poan 171-2, 172 rubber plantations 284 medical services 77-8 Preah Palilay 164 running 89 shopping 107-9 Preah Pithu 164 Russian Market, see Psar Toul Tom sights 83-8 Preah Vihear Chann 279 Pong tourist information 81 Preah Vihear Protected Forest 267, tours 91 268 S travel to/from 109-11 Preah Vihear Province 261-70 safety, see dangers, see also travel within 111-12 Preah Vihear, see Tbeng Meanchey responsible travel walking tour 90-1 Preak Khsach 190 Saloth Sar, see Pol Pot Phnom Penh Water Park 91 pregnant travellers 350 Sam Rainsy 41, 43

Phnom Preah Reach Throap 113-14 Prek Toeuk Sap Estuary 213 Sam Rainsy Party 42, 43 INDEX Phnom Pros 283 Prek Treng Beach 198 Sambor 287 Phnom Samkos Wildlife Sanctuary Prey Chung Kran 284 Sambor Prei Kuk 272-3, 273 239 Prey Veng 278-9 Samlaut 252 Phnom Sampeau 249 Prey Veng Province 278-80 Samraong 257 Phnom Santuk 235, 273-4 prickly heat 349 scams 122, 310, 330 Phnom Sombok 287 Psar Chaa (Phnom Penh) 109 schistosomiasis 346 Phnom Sor 223 Psar Chaa (Siem Reap) 131 sculpture 53-4, 318 Phnom Sorsia 219 Psar O Russei 109 Sen Monorom 299-302, 299 Phnom Srei 283 Psar Olympic 109 Serendipity Beach 196 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary Psar Pailin 251 sexually transmitted infections (STIs) 115 Psar Ta Pang 96 346-7 Phnom Tchea Tapech 231 Psar Thmei 109 shadow puppets 124, 205 Phnom Udong 113 Psar Tuol Tom Pong 109 share taxis 339 phone cards 319-20 Pursat 236-8, 237 shooting ranges 89 photography 317 Pursat Province 236-40 shopping 317-18 pick-up trucks 339 Siamese crocodiles 115, 186, 190 planning 14-18, 312, 324, see Q Siem Reap 118-39, 120-1 also itineraries quad biking 126 accommodation 126-30 plants 59 activities 118, 125-6 Pnieng Rochum 295 R addresses 119 Poipet 252-3 Racky Thy 247, 248 banks 122 Pol Pot 33-7, 41, 42, 44, 87, 258, radio 306 dangers 122-3 259-61, 291, 297 Rajendravarman II 141, 164, 173 drinking 134-5 cremation site 260 Ranariddh, Prince Norodom 40, 41 emergency services 119 residence 259 Ratanakiri Province 291-8 entertainment 135 politics 12-13, 37, 42-3, 46, 148 Ream National Park 213 food 130-4 pollution 61 religion 50-1, see also individual history 119 Popokvil Falls 222 religions internet access 121-2 population 12, 45, 48 remorque-kangs 338 medical services 122 postal services 317 remorque-motos 112, 113, 339 shopping 135-6 370 Index (S-T)

Siem Reap continued Svay Rieng Province 277-8 Prasat Preah Vihear 268-70, sights 123-5 swimming 89-92, 126, 191, 214 269, 4 tourist information 122 Prasat Rong Chen 177 travel to/ from 136-7 T Prasat Suor Prat 165 travel within 138 Ta Keo 169 Pre Rup 173 Sihamoni, King 31, 43 Ta Mok 35, 41, 42, 258 Preah Khan (Angkor) 170-1, Sihanouk, King Norodom 30, 37, 43, residence 260 171, 203 44, 55 grave 259 Preah Khan (Preah Vihear) 262-4, Sihanoukville 193-213, 194-5 house 228, 259 263 accommodation 198-209 Ta Nei 169-70 Preah Ko 174 banks 196 Ta Prohm (Angkor) 166-7, 166 Prasat Kuha Nokor 274 beaches 196-8 Ta Prohm (Tonlé Bati) 114-15 Prasat Neak Buos 268 dangers 196 Ta Som 172 Prasat Preah Vihear 269 drinking 210-11 Ta Veng 297 Prasat Yeay Ten 249-50 food 209-10 Takeo 228-30, 229 Preah Neak Poan 171-2, 172 internet access 195 Takeo Province 227-31 Preah Palilay 164 medical services 195-6 Tan Lung Waterfall 304 Preah Pithu 164 shopping 211 taxis 339 Preah Vihear Chann 279 sights 196-8 Tbeng Meanchey 265-7 Roluos Temples 173-4 tourist information 196 Tek Chhouu 219 Sambor Prei Kuk 272-3 travel to/ from 211-12 telephone services 319 Silver Pagoda 83-4 silk 318 temples 16, see also wat Ta Keo 169 silver 318 Angkor Wat 154-9, 155 Ta Nei 169-70 Silver Pagoda 83-4 Bakong 174 Ta Prohm (Angkor) 166-7, Sisophon 253-5, 254 Baksei Chamkrong 168 166 Sisowath Sirik Matak, Prince 32-3 Banteay Chhmar 255-6 Ta Prohm (Tonlé Bati) 114-15 Sisowath, King 30 Banteay Kdei 169 Ta Som 172 INDEX Skuon 283 Banteay Samré 173 Tep Pranam 164 snake bites 58 Banteay Srei 175-6 Thommanon 170 snakes 58, 311 Banteay Top 256 Western Mebon 173 Sneg 249-50 Baphuon 163-4 Tep Pranam 164 Snuol 288 Bayon 161-3, 162 Terrace of Elephants 165 Sokha Beach 198 Beng Mealea 178-9, 179 Terrace of the Leper King 165 Son Sen 41 Chau Say Tevoda 170 Thala Boravit 289-90 South Kleang 165 Chau Srei Vibol 175 theft 81-2, 311, see also bag Southern Cardamoms Protected Eastern Mebon 172-3 snatching Forest 189 itineraries 22 Thmor Thom 214 Spean Thmor 170 Koh Ker 264-5 Thommanon 170 Spiderville, see Skuon Lolei 174 tigers 59, 219 sport 55 Phimeanakas 164 time 320 Sra Damrei 177 Phnom Bakheng 168, 168 tipping 316 Sra Srang 169 Phnom Bayong 231 Tmatboey 267 Sre Ambel 193 Phnom Bok 175 toilets 149, 320 Stoeng Chikrieng grasslands 270 Phnom Chhnork 218-19 Tonlé Bati 114-15 Stung Treng 289-91, 289 Phnom Chisor 116 Exhibition 124 Stung Treng Province 288-91 Phnom Krom 174-5 Tonlé Sap Lake 56, 57, 61, 73, 124, sunburn 350 Phnom Sampeau 249 138-9, 270, 233, 206 Suryavarman I 27, 141, 144-5, 163 Phnom Santuk 273-4 Tonlé Sap River 19, 56, 57, 73, 87, 99, Suryavarman II 27, 141, 145, 154-5, Phnom Sombok 287 234, 235 158, 159, 173, 178 Phnom Sorsia 219 tourist information 320-1 Svay Rieng 278 Phnom Tchea Tapech 231 tours 332-3 Prasat Andet 273 Angkor 152 000 Map pages Prasat Banan 247-8 bird-watching 138 000 Photograph pages Prasat Krau Romeas 177 Koh Kong Province 186-7 Prasat Kravan 169 Kompot Province 222 Index (T-Y) 371

Krong Kep 225 Virachay National Park 297-8 Chheu Tok Cascades 239 Phnom Penh 91, 115 Visakha Puja 19 Chhuk Laeng Cascades 237 traffic accidents 311-12 visas 321-2, see also passports Dak Dam Waterfall 303 train travel 111, 339-40 Voen Sai 296 Ka Tieng 296 travel literature 17 volunteering 322 Kinchaan 296 travel safety, see safety vultures 267 Kirivong Waterfall 231 travel to/from Cambodia 324-33 Koh Por Waterfall 187 travel within Cambodia 333-40 W Monorom Falls 302-3 travellers cheques 316 walking 154 Pailin 251 trekking 307, see also hiking Wat Asram Moha Russei 230 Popokvil Falls 222 Kampot Province 222 Wat Athvea 123 Romanear II 303 Koh Kong Province 190, 191 Wat Bo 123 Romanear Waterfall 303 Mondulkiri Province 297-8 Wat Dam Nak 123 Stung Phong Roul 192-3 Ratanakiri Province 292 Wat Damrey Sar 241 Tan Lung Waterfall 304 Tuk Chrouu Bram-pul 296 Wat Ek Phnom 246-7 Tatai Waterfall 187 tuk tuks, see remorque-motos Wat Hanchey 284 Tek Chhouu 219 Tuol Sleng Museum 85-6 Wat Kandal 241 Tuk Chrouu Bram-pul 296 TV 49, 306 Wat Khaong Kang 251 watersports 307 typhoid 347 Wat Kirisan 223 weather 14, 308, 309 Wat Kor Village 248-9 weights & measures 306, see also U Wat Maha Leap 283-4 inside front cover Udayadityavarman I 164 Wat Moha Montrei 87 Western Baray 173 Udayadityavarman II 141, 163, 247 Wat Moi Roi 287 Western Mebon 173 Udong 113-14 Wat Nokor 281 wildlife watching 60, 115, 187-8, 308

unexploded ordnance (UXO) 250, 257, Wat Ounalom 86-7 women in Cambodia 51 INDEX 258, 264, 307, 312 Wat Phiphétaram 241 women travellers 122, 322-3 United Nations 37, 38-40 86 women’s health 350 Upper Khmer people, see Khmer Leu Wat Phnom Yat 250 woodcarving 318 people Wat Preah Inkosei 123 work 323, see also volunteering Wat Preah Keo 83-4 world time zones 374-5 V Wat Roka Kandal 285 worms, intestinal 345 vaccinations 341, 342 Wat Sampeau Moi Roi 222 WWII 30, 240 vegetarian travellers 67 Wat Thmei 123 Victory Beach 197 water 65-6, 350 Y video 317 waterfalls 141, 168, 172, 174, 175 Vietnam War 30-5, 197, 230, 277 Bou Sraa 303 Yeak Lom Protected Area 296 48-9 Chaa Ong 296 Yeay Peau 115 372 GreenDex GREENDEX

GOING GREEN It’s not only ecotourism that is starting to take off in Cambodia, but also community-based tourism in remote areas and a whole host of restaurants and shops dedicated to helping the disadvantaged or disabled. The following attractions, tours and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they demonstrate an active sustainable-tourism policy. Some are involved in conservation or environmental protection, others in training and development for the disadvantaged, and some to raise funds to support social projects in healthcare or education. We want to keep developing our sustainable-tourism content. If you think we’ve omitted someone who should be listed here, or if you disagree with our choices, email us at talk2us@lonelyplanet. com.au and set us straight for next time. For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

PHNOM PENH Friends & Stuff p108 attractions accommodation Khemara Handicrafts Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve p139 The Quay p95 p108 Cambodia Land Mine Museum Khmer Life p108 p124 eating & drinking NCDP Handicrafts p108 La Noria Restaurant Puppet Show Café 151 p102 Nyemo p108 p135 Café Yejj p102 Rajana p108 Les Chantiers Écoles Silk Farm p124 Ebony Apsara Café p102 Reyum p108 Physical Rehabilitation Centre Friends p102 Sobbhana p108 p125 Java Café p103 Tabitha p108 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary p138 K’nyay p98 The Shop p108 Tonlé Sap Exhibition p124 Lazy Gecko Café p102 Villageworks p108 Wat Dam Nak p123 Le Café du Centre p102 Wat Than Artisans p108 Le Lotus Blanc p102 courses Le Rit’s p102 tours Le Tigre de Papier p125 Romdeng p102 Mango Cambodia p91 eating & drinking activities transport Butterflies Garden Restaurant p131 Kanya Massage p89 Cyclo Centre p112 Funky Munky p133 Meta House Films p107 Joe-To-Go p131 Seeing Hands Massage p89 volunteering Le Café p134 Cooperation Committee for Les Jardins des Delices p131 attractions Cambodia p322 Sala Bai Hotel and Restaurant Apsara Arts Association p107 School p131 Chambok Community-based Singing Tree Café p131 Ecotourism p116 SIEM REAP & TEMPLES Killing Fields of Choeung Ek OF ANGKOR shopping p86 accommodation Artisans d’Angkor p123 Kirirom National Park p116 Paul Dubrule Hotel & Tourism Krousar Thmey p136 Phnom Tamao Wildlife School p128 Nyemo p136 Sanctuary p115 Sala Bai Hotel & Restaurant Rajana p136 Sovanna Phum Arts Association School p127 Rehab Craft p136 p107 Shinta Mani p129 Samatoa p136 Tuol Sleng Museum p85 Soria Moria Hotel p129 Senteurs d’Angkor p136 activities Tabitha Cambodia p136 shopping Beatocello p135 Cambodian Craft Cooperation p108 Krousar Thmey Massage p125 tours Cambodian Handicraft National Centre for Khmer Buffalo Trails p152 Association p108 Ceramics Revival p124 La Villa p152 Colours of Cambodia p108 Seeing Hands Massage 4 p125 Paneman p152 GREENDEX 373

Greendex © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © p282 p290 Treng) p286 (Kratie) p293 p288 Centre (Pursat) p238 (Pursat) Centre p245 p247 (Pheam Ek) of Cambodia (Kompong Thom) p272 About Asia p333 p333 About Asia p333 Hanuman Tourism p333 Journeys Within p333 Local Adventures p333 Ride Pepy p333 Centre Sam Veasna Nature Lodge (Sen Monorom) p301 Lodge (SenNature Monorom) Rana Homestay (Kompong Cham) (Stung Tonlé Training Centre Wat Roka Kandal Bungalows Hill Lodge (Ban Lung) Yaklom Dolphin-Watching Around Kratie p302 Project Elephant Valley p290 Mekong Discovery Trail p303 Mondulkiri Protected Forest p290 O Svay p297 Virachay National Park p291 Mekong Blue (Stung Treng) p290 Mekong Blue (Stung Treng) p285 Wat Roka Kandal (Kratie) Community Villa (Pursat) p238 Villa (Pursat) Community p244 Eats Café (Battambang) Fresh Bun Rany Hun Sen Development p245 Eats Café (Battambang) Fresh Rachana Handicrafts (Battambang) Cambodian Education Center Cooperation for the Development TOURS EASTERN CAMBODIA CAMBODIA EASTERN accommodation attractions eating shopping eating shopping volunteering (Banteay Chhmar) p256 (Banteay Chhmar) p254 (Sisophon) p274 p243 (Battambang) p243 (Battambang) p256 Landscape p238 (CCPF) Forest p239 p238 p235 Chhnang) p243 p254 (Sisophon) Fisheries p239 Sanctuary p239 Kong) p186 Kong) moms Protected Forest) p187 p187 Kong) p187 Kong) Protected Forest) p187 p187 Kong) p187 Kong) Agir Pour le Cambodge Homestay Agir École d’Art Khmers et de Culture Khmer Village Homestay (Baray) Seeing Hands Massage Agricultural Development Action Banteay Chhmar Protected Central Cardamoms Protected Kravanh Ranger Station (CCPF) Northern Cardamom Mountains Ondong Rossey (Kompong Ponleu SelpakPhare (Battambang) Phneat Koh Pong Sat Community Phnom Samkos Wildlife Rovieng Ranger Station (CCPF) p274 Santuk Silk Farm Blue Moon Guesthouse (Krong Koh Guesthouse Blue Moon Carda- Travel (Central Intrepid (Krong Koh Neptune Guesthouse ResortOasis Bungalow (Krong Koh Cardamoms (Central Peregrine Sauna Garden Bar (Krong Koh Sunset Lounge Tours (Krong Koh NORTHWESTERN CAMBODIA accommodation activities attractions tours

p211 p211 (Sihanoukville) p210 (Sihanoukville) p190 p189 Forest p186 p187 Sanctuary p189 Forest p216 p216 p216 National Park) p214 National Park) p184 Kong) p191 Phat) p222 National Park) p187 p191 Sakor National Park) (Central Cardamoms Protected p189 Forest)

Rajana (Sihanoukville) M’lop Tapang (Sihanoukville) M’lop Tapang Epic Arts Café (Kampot) p217 Epic Arts Café (Kampot) Starfish Bakery & Café Central Cardamoms Protected p192 Chi Phat Ecotourism Project Koh Kong Conservation Corridor Krasaop Wildlife Peam p213 Ream National Park Southern Cardamoms Protected Bokor National Park p219 Bokor National Park Botum Sakor National Park Kampot Music Traditional School Seeing Hands Massage 5 (Kampot) Kampot Massage by the Blind Oasis Bungalow ResortOasis Bungalow (Krong Koh (Chi Guesthouse Phuong Vanny (Bokor Training & Research Facility Rainbow Lodge (Tatai River) Nun Ranger Station (Botum Ta Thma Bang Ranger Station White Bicycles p153 White Bicycles Bungalow (ReamDolphin Station

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. shopping eating attractions activities SOUTH COAST SOUTH COAST accommodation transport