22 AUGUST 22, 2013 | WWW.PRODUCER.COM | THE WESTERN PRODUCER FARM LIVING

SASKATCHEWAN | NORTHERN FOREST Canoeing the Clearwater

TALES FROM THE ROAD

ARLENE & ROBIN KARPAN

t’s like we’re caught in some gigantic pinball machine as I we rapidly zigzag across the roaring river, trying to find a route between boulders the size of cars, as our canoe bumps and grinds over Lac ). Both spots are acces- barely submerged rocks. Then after a sible by float plane and in between couple of kilometres of non-stop ma- are the most spectacular landscapes noeuvring, the wild river suddenly and the longest portages. turns peaceful, allowing us to enjoy We lug our canoes and gear over a the deep magnificent valley. kilometre to get around Smoothrock The legendary Clearwater River Falls, where the river twists in an combines untamed wilderness with impressive s-shaped turn over a adrenaline pumping whitewater and series of frothing drops. jaw dropping scenery. This Canadi- Here we’re treated to the ultimate an Heritage River changed the “room with a view” at a campsite course of history. perched on a cliff edge above the When Peter Pond crossed the 20 falls. Another delight awaits in the kilometre long to the overflow channel on the opposite Clearwater in 1778, he found the long side of the river just above the falls sought after land bridge linking the where we find a magical wonderland Hudson Bay and Arctic watersheds, of wispy multi-layered cataracts and opening vast areas of the north to the round pools looking like hot tubs. fur trade. Early travellers included a The smoothly worn rocks glisten in who’s who of northern explorers, the hot sun with outrageous shades from Alexander Mackenzie to David of copper, crimson and orange, Thompson, Sir and tempting us to stay an extra day in others, who extolled the beauty of the this perfect summer playground. Clearwater Valley in their journals. It would be a toss-up to choose the With headwaters in northwest top highlight of the Clearwater — , the Clearwater flows Smoothrock Falls or our stop next southeast, then makes a sharp turn day at Skull Canyon. The river divides west, eventually joining the Atha- into two turbulent channels around a basca River at Fort McMurray, Alta. large flower pot island, its 25-metre Over its more than 300 kilometre sheer cliffs clothed in bright orange course, the river races through cliff lichen. lined canyons, boulder strewn rap- It is also called Bald Eagle Gorge for CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Early morning fog rises around the entrance to Skull Canyon on the Clearwater ids and waterfalls galore. The most the eagle nests that cling to notches River. Canoeists enter the tongue of a rapid. The view of Smoothrock Falls is breathtaking. Sunlight shows off popular section to canoe is the 105 in the cliff faces. the spectacular colours of Skull Canyon. | ARLENE & ROBIN KARPAN PHOTOS km stretch from the Clearwater’s We hike to the top of the mostly flat confluence with the Virgin River topped canyon rim and wander walls take on a deep golden glow with during the day. Early next morning, water River should only be attempt- (where the Clearwater turns sharply around for one breathtaking view the setting sun. the skull magically appears as the ris- ed by those with extensive whitewa- west) to Contact Rapids (north of after another. Come evening, we find But where’s the skull? The name ing sun burns off the fog lying like a ter canoeing experience. Guided the best view of all is at our campsite comes from the shape of one of the shroud over the gorge. Suddenly, the excursions are also available. For where we watch the orange-tinged cliffs, but it isn’t immediately obvious cliffs are backlit, throwing shadows more information, visit www.sask- into the skull’s deep eye sockets and parks.net and www.churchillriverca- Trait Stewardship outlining the face. The dramatic rev- noe.com. Responsibilities elation somehow seems fitting for Arlene and Robin Karpan are well-travelled Join Other Farmers in Paradise! this most dramatic of rivers. writers based in Saskatoon. Notice to Farmers Independent trips down the Clear- Contact: [email protected]. Monsanto Company is a member of Excellence Through Stewardship® (ETS). Monsanto products are commercialized in accordance with ETS Product Launch Stewardship Guidance, and in compliance with Monsanto’s Policy for Commercialization of Biotechnology-Derived Plant Hawaiian Products in Commodity Crops. This product has been approved for import into key export markets with functioning regulatory systems. BUILDING Any crop or material produced from this product can only be exported Farm Tour 24’X48’ to, or used, processed or sold in countries where all necessary regulatory approvals have been granted. 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