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Alta An ancient land overlooking the lake) and on through Tuscia (pronounced ‘too-sha’) was fertile volcanic land to , the name used by the ancient , (with the remains of Romans for what is now the Italian the ancient capital of the Farnese province of , and once part of ), and Farnese itself, near the the ancient region of Etruria, home of Selva del Lamone forest. The road to the Etruscans. This guide focuses on the coast takes in , romantic northern (‘higher’) Tuscia, an area of Pianiano, (near the ancient great cultural, natural and gastro- ruins of ) and to Montalto di nomic interest in northernmost , Castro almost on the . bounded to the north and east by and . Mostly over- Itineraries looked by the tourists who flock to through Tuscia Florence and , the area has un- The following suggested itineraries doubtedly retained much of its an- focus on various aspects of the area’s cient charm, and has indeed changed historical past, its natural beauty, and little since medieval times when pil- on local food and drink. grims – and in later centuries trav- Further information on itineraries ellers on the ‘Grand Tour’ – headed through Tuscia can be found at down the Via Cassia (the ancient www.tuscia.org. For a complete list Roman road through Tuscia) towards of museums in the area and for the the Eternal City. Montaigne writes of itinerary maps, see pp. 16-21. his stay in these parts in 1580, Cervantes' diaries tell of a visit to the Prehistoric Tuscia area, and John Ruskin, who would This itinerary, which traces the earliest have gazed out onto the beautiful human settlements in the area, takes countryside from the windows of his in several interesting museums: at horse-drawn coach, was here in the November of 1840. Visitors coming from Rome today can ★ take the motorway to Florence and ON THE PILGRIM TRAIL: exit at . The SS 71 leads THE VIA FRANCIGENA through beautiful unspoilt country- One of the main routes taken by side to , a lovely old lakeside medieval pilgrims was the Via town offering superb views onto the Francigena from Canterbury to volcanic lake and its two islands. Near Rome (so called because much of the border with Tuscany to the north the journey was through France). are the attractive towns of San The final stages of this pilgrimage Lorenzo Nuovo, , passed through , along the , and the Monte Rufeno old Longobard route linking the Nature Reserve. Po Valley with the Tuscia region, Continuing anti-clockwise round the taking in Proceno, Acquapen- lake we come to , a little town dente, and perched on a crag, , Bolsena. Red, brown and orange with its caves and Etruscan tombs, information panels give today’s and the charming, panoramic town visitors something of a feel for the of . This is the territory over countryside through which the which the Farnese family held sway pilgrims would have walked (local during the Renaissance. information centres also provide Further south we come to ancient maps and illustrative material). , to (another town

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ITINERARIES Valentano (with finds from Lake necropolises are well documented in Mezzano), Ischia di Castro (docu- the Vulci museum. Beautiful Etruscan menting the Aeneolithic necropolis tombs can also be seen at Grotte di over which a Roman villa was built) Castro (Necropoli di Pianezze) and at and Bolsena (presenting lake- the Etrusco-Roman excavations of dwellings dating back to the 9th Poggio Moscini; other Etruscan cent. BC and Villanovan finds from finds are displayed in the museum at the Turona Park). Bolsena.

The Etruscans The Farnese Legend has it that the Etruscan site of The main towns tracing the history of Vulci was discovered in 1828 when the illustrious family that ruled over an ox pulling a plough fell into a the area in Renaissance times are tomb filled with burial gifts. But pil- Capodimonte (Rocca Farnese), laging of the tombs was already tak- Valentano (Museo della Rocca Far- ing place in the previous century forc- nese), Farnese (Museo Rittatore ing the pontifical government to in- Vonwiller, church of Sant'Anna), La- tervene in 1802 to put a stop to the tera (Palazzo Ducale), Gradoli (Mu- thefts. Vulci, with its majestic seo del Costume Farnesiano), Grotte Abbadia bridge, is surely the most at- di Castro (Palazzo Comunale), and mospheric of the area’s many the archaeological site of Castro, the Etruscan sites (revealed to 19th-cen- centre of the Farnese duchy that was tury Europe by the Romantic traveller razed to the ground by its arch-rival George Dennis), and finds from the Pope Innocent X in 1649.

FOOD AND WINE IN ALTA TUSCIA ETRUSCAN EATING craft-based concerns, all marked for Restaurants and trattorie through- tourists by special road signs. The out Alta Tuscia serve delicious, area is no less famous for its olive oil, wholesome local cuisine, and many especially the oil made around Lake special food festivals are held in cele- Bolsena and in Canino. bration of the area’s uniquely- In an area of woods and rivers game flavoured produce, from Valentano and fish are of course in plentiful chick peas, Onano lentils and Gra- supply (mushrooms also feature doli’s famous beans of purgatory, to prominently in many dishes). And in Proceno garlic, Canino asparagus, the centuries since the marshes Acquapendente special cereal called were drained, Alta Tuscia has also “farro del Pungolo” and Bolsena had grazing land for its livestock tomatoes. Many of the local special- farms, providing beef and lamb. ities – some of them dating back to Porchetta, or roast sucking-pig, is Etruscan times – are unique to the one of the most popular kinds of area. Honey (for which Mt. Rufeno pork, and a wide range of charcu- is famed) features in many sweet terie products is available. Good lo- and even savoury dishes. cal cheeses are also to be found, for Wine is produced here to Italy’s usu- example pecorino, one by-product al high standards. The best-known of local sheep-farming activities. local quality wines are Aleatico Adding further to the variety of (Gradoli) and Est!Est!Est! (Monte- foods are the vegetables and pulses fiascone). The Alta Tuscia Wine that grow in abundance in these Route linking Acquapendente, parts. As for desserts, many of the Proceno, Onano, Bolsena, San local biscuits, cakes and pastries, Lorenzo Nuovo, Gradoli, Grotte di made using local ricotta cheese, Castro, Latera and Valentano, was nuts and so on, are associated with set up to promote ‘gastronomic the yearly festivals (Carnival and tourism’, and connects up the most Easter in particular). traditional trattorie, farm holiday es- For a full list of local dishes see pp. tablishments, fish farms and other 12-15.

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ACQUAPENDENTE The Monaldeschi castles The Monaldeschi were another pow- ★ THE MONTE RUFENO erful family in medieval and NATURE RESERVE Renaissance times, whose castles can This 2,890-hectare park on the bor- be seen at Bolsena, Torre Alfina, der between Umbria and Tuscany and Onano. north-east of Acquapendente is an unspoilt area of woods, waterfalls Brigandry and wildlife. Visitors on foot can Tuscia borders on the Lazio section of follow the well-marked nature the Maremma coastal area, known for trails or hire horses and bikes (de- its horse-riding holidays. One popular tails at the Visitors’ Centre, tel. equestrian excursion explores some of 0763 733642). There are also picnic the beautiful out-of-the-way places areas, a campsite, and a flower mu- where brigands once sought refuge. seum. Various educational tours are organised. Five of its 32 ancient Religion farmhouses offer accommodation, Crossed by one of Europe’s main pil- and those who have booked a stay grimage trails (see box p. 113), Tuscia in the reserve may enter by car. The is filled with chapels, shrines and Monte Rufeno park area is open monasteries that tell of the area’s de- from one hour before sunrise to votional past and the miraculous one hour after sunset. For accomo- events traditionally believed to have dation, see pp. 32-33. taken place here.

Nature own tourist information office is in Alta Tuscia is an area of exceptional Via Rugarella 10, tel. 0763 711228). and generally unspoilt natural beau- Of uncertain origin – though proba- ty. As well as (and the bly an Etruscan and later Roman tiny Lake Mezzano), the main areas town before its destruction – it of environmental interest are the achieved a certain importance in me- Monte Rufeno Reserve and the La- dieval times as a waystage for pil- mone Forest. grims heading for Rome (see box p. 113). Much fought over by the Food and drink Church and the imperial powers, it The area’s gastronomic delights (see eventually became a free town in box p. 114) will not disappoint. 1443 and grew in the centuries that Locally-grown produce is trans- followed. One of the best points of formed into mouth-watering dishes entry into the town from the Via everywhere, and most towns cele- Cassia is near the Cathedral (Basilica brate their food in a whole range of di San Sepolcro), which has an im- local festivals during the year. pressive façade flanked by two bell- towers and an ancient stone portal. Acquapendente Beneath the raised transept and apse Acquapendente (elev. 420 m) is a inside is the superb Romanesque lively little town that also provides a crypt, with richly-decorated capitals. useful base for excursions into the In the main church above note also Monte Rufeno Park (see box) and the two 15th-century bas-reliefs from the Alta Tuscia area as a whole (informa- Agostino di Duccio school, a glazed tion on a whole range of local events terracotta altarpiece by Jacopo and excursions in the area can be ob- Beneventano (1522) and an elabo- tained from the Centro Visite rate 17th-century wooden choir in Riserva Nazionale Monte Rufeno, the apse. The history of the basilica is in the tower opposite the cathedral, told on six panels on the piers to the tel. 0763 733642; Acquapendente’s left of the nave. Nearby stands the

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ACQUAPENDENTE

y G Accommodation and re- y G Restaurant and Hotel: "La staurants: see p.27 Monaldesca", in the Rufeno reserve, q Things to buy: see p. 28 entrance no. 1; tel./fax 0763 f Feasts and fairs: see p. 30 717078; e-mail: [email protected]

medieval Julia de Jacopo Tower Bridge built by Pope Gregory XIII in (the visitors’ centre). The Barbarossa 1578 over the Paglia river. Clocktower in the pinewood above the town is all that remains of the Bolsena 12th-century castle. Bolsena (elev. 350 m) is an attractive Via Roma leads from the Cathedral summer vacation resort, on the to the Bishop’s Palace, and after the north-east shores of the lake of the entrance to the late 19th-century same name, set against the backdrop church of Sant’Antonio Abate e of the Volsini mountain range. Its ori- Santa Caterina, the late 13th-cen- gins can be traced back to the impor- tury (but now Baroque) church of tant Etruscan city of Velsna to the Sant’Agostino, with 16th-century north, from where the populace fled cloister and portal. down to the lake to escape Roman Continuing along Via C. Battisti, we oppression in what was then known come to the Renaissance Palazzo as Volsinii. It was variously controlled Viscontini at no. 39, and in the small by the Longobards, by Orvieto and – square beyond, the church of San up to Italian unity – by the Church. Francesco, with an interesting façade Numerous Etruscan, Roman and me- (17th-century frescoes, 14 fine wood dieval remains can be seen in and sculptures and a 13th-century crucifix around Bolsena, most impressively at inside). To the south of the elegant the Poggio Moscini archaeological Piazza Comunale down in the centre site just outside the town on the road of town stands the much smaller to Orvieto (Roman baths, the forum, Piazza del Rigombo, one side of temples, a basilica later used as a which is lined with fountains (note the Christian church, and private villas). coloured ceramic panels behind illus- Other remains include the imposing trating the town’s trees and plants; walls near the castle, and many other glazed panels are to be found Longobard tombs. near interesting plant specimens Etruscan and even Iron Age remains around the town). The church of can be seen in the beautiful Turona Santa Vittoria further on houses the Archaeology and Nature Park in Madonna del Fiore, the centrepiece the hills north of the lake (reached of a solemn mid-May parade of panels from a turn-off at km 108 of the Via (‘pugnaloni’) decorated with flower Cassia). The hub of the town is Piazza petals and leaves. Finally, we come the Matteotti, in which stand Palazzo leafy Piazza della Costituente with Comunale (containing the tourist the Palazzo del Teatro. information office; tel. 0761 Several interesting monasteries lie to the north and south of the town. Trevinano (15 km to the north of Food specialities Bolsena is a good place to buy char- Acquapendente) and Torre Alfina cuterie, fish, olive oil and wine. For a (to the east) are interesting medieval full list of shops see p. 49 villages with ancient castles and y G Accommodation and churches, each conveniently situated restaurants: see p. 52 near an entrance to the Monte (For younger travellers: a Youth Rufeno Park (see box p. 115). 4 km Hostel is to be found in the north of Acquapendente stands the Madonna del Giglio sanctuary) charming six-span Gregorian

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BOLSENA

Lake Bolsena

ago di Bolsena is the largest lake of volcanic origin in Italy. The remains Lof the Bronze Age settlement of Gran Carro, now submerged, are in the Lake Museum at Bolsena. Visits to the privately-owned Bisentina Island, once the Pope’s summer res- idence with interesting Renaissance church buildings, leave from Capodimonte and Bolsena (tel. 0761 799820) The island is a haven for wildlife. The now uninhabited Martana Island is famous for the story of Ostrogoth queen Amalaswintha, who was killed here in 584 by her cousin Theodahad. Her treasure was long believed to be buried here. Capodimonte, is a charming town of Etruscan origin on the southern shore of the lake. The borgo, with castle, town hall and collegiate church, occu- pies the peninsula; the hotels are located in the modern part. The tree-lined lakeside promenade is a popular walk. Nearby Marta is picturesquely situ- ated high up over the lake, with charming old streets and splendid views.

THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT The crystal-clear waters have an abundance of whitefish, perch, pike and eels (mentioned by Dante in his Purgatory). Teal, heron, mallards, moorhens and kingfishers all inhabit the reedy shores. The lake is also in- teresting for the unusually geometric ‘pietre lanciate’ rock formations near Bolsena. Nature trails leave from Grotte di Castro and Gradoli.

ACTIVITIES For boat trips round the lake contact Navigazione Alto Lazio (Corso della Repubblica 60, Bolsena, tel. 0761 798033, 0360 664684); or Navigazione La Bussola at Capodimonte (tel. 0761 870760, 0338 7672849). Water sports en- thusiasts will find most amenities at Bolsena. Many traditional popular and religious festivals are held in the surrounding towns, including celebrations of the local produce grown on the lake’s fertile slopes (see p. 57) Lakeside Campsites (see p. 54).

DAY TRIPS FROM THE LAKE The famous Gothic cathedral of Orvieto is just 28 km from Bolsena. Medieval Viterbo lies to the south. Between the two, to the east of the lake, are (with the picturesque old ) and , famous for its wine.

799923, fax 0761 796056, e-mail: sena Museum, documenting the [email protected]) and the Gothic area’s volcanic origins, the history of church of San Francesco. The gate- human settlement of the area (partic- way by the church leads into the ularly the now submerged ‘Gran charming medieval town, with the Carro’, a Villanovan village to the splendid Castello Monaldeschi, south of Bolsena), local Etruscan and built in the 13th-14th centuries but medieval history and popular tradi- damaged by earthquake in 1695 and tions (opening times: see p. 48). At by the people of Bolsena themselves the foot of the castle stands the mid in 1815, who feared that Luciano 16th-century Palazzo Del Drago, Bonaparte might take control of their with rooms beautifully decorated in fortress. The castle, which was re- the Roman mannerist style. stored in the 20th century and af- On the other side of the main square, fords excellent views of the town and the main shopping street of Corso the lake, now houses the Lake Bol- della Repubblica leads to Piazza di

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BOLSENA Canino ★ THE MIRACLE The name of Canino (elev. 229 m) de- OF THE EUCHARIST rives from the pre-Roman gens Cani- In 1263 a Bohemian priest officiat- na people of nearby Vulci (see box). ing in the church of Santa Cristina The town grew in importance under became convinced of the truth of the Farnese, who rebuilt the old me- transubstantiation after drops of dieval town, but when Castro fell in blood were seen to fall on the al- 1649, Canino was sold to Napoleon tar linen, and onto the marble Bonaparte’s brother Luciano. He now kept in the ‘Chapel of the made improvements to the town and Miracle’. Solemn celebrations restored the thermal baths at Musi- with a grand flower display are held each year at Corpus Christi, gnano, where he had his summer the feast day (known in Italian as residence; when he died in 1853, the Corpus Domini) instituted by area was bought by the Torlonia fam- Urban IV to commemorate the ily, owners of the territory up to the miracle. Other festivals in Bolsena middle of the last century. include the ‘Mysteries of St. The maze-like medieval quarter (‘Le Christine’ with live tableaux in Buche’), which retains its original the main squares on 23-24 July, paving, has an interesting large public the fish, fruit and vegetable fairs wash-house built by the Farnese. In in July, the handicrafts show (sec- the main Piazza De Andreis stands the ond weekend in August) and the late 18th-century church of Santi Feast of San Rocco (16 August). Andrea e Giovanni Battista, in For a full list of feasts and fairs: which Luciano Bonaparte is buried; see p. 51. many other works of 14th/16th-cen- tury art also grace the interior. Note the square’s fine 12-sided fountain, Santa Cristina, with the 11th-centu- and the nearby theatre. The main ry Collegiate Church of Santa Cri- Via Cavour, lined with fine palaces stina (the façade is late-15th cent). A bearing the Farnese crest, leads to Romanesque portal in the left-hand Piazza Mazzini (the castle square). aisle inside leads to the Cappella del Another good, porticoed palace (Pa- Miracolo, built to commemorate the lazzo Miccinelli) stands in Piazza miracle of the Eucharist (see box above). To the left of this chapel is the door to the Grotta di Santa 2 Tourist Information: Via Ro- Cristina. Here is the tomb of Saint ma 1, tel. 0761 437001. Christine, the daughter of a Roman y G Accommodation and re- prefect in the early years of staurants: see p. 111 Christianity who miraculously sur- f Feasts and fairs: see p. 112 vived her father’s attempts to drown her for refusing to renounce her de- votion to Christ. Above the arch lead- ing to the tomb are traces of a fresco ★ GASTRONOMIC with the oldest known depiction of SPECIALITIES the later miracle of the Eucharist. The Canino is famous for its early- furnishings around the tomb of the ripening asparagus, and for its saint are 19th century. The quality olive oil, celebrated with a Catacombs of St. Christine to the local festival in the first week of right of the tomb date back to the pe- December. Gastronomic speciali- riod of Christian persecution. ties also include saffron pizza, Also in the medieval town, note the made at Easter. For a list of where church of San Salvatore with its to buy foodstuffs in Canino see p. 109 coloured roof tiles.

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CANINO 1180. It remained under Castro rule THE VULCI EXCAVATIONS until 1649. The remains of one of Etruria’s largest city states are made all the The main street between the two more atmospheric by the Etrusco- gateways leads from the entrance Roman Abbadia Bridge over the square (note the attractive fountain) Fiora river, and the medieval cas- through the old town and its arched tle, which now houses the Museo medieval streets that offer fine views Nazionale Vulcente (Neolithic of the surroundings. Little is left of finds and burial gifts from local necropolises, see p. 110). The the Farnese Castle, which was walls and streets of the ancient transformed into the Farnese family town have been unearthed and residence between the 15th and remains of a temple and domus. 17th centuries. Though of ancient Numerous necropolises can also origin, the parish church of Santa be visited, most notably the Maria Assunta in Piazza Castel François tomb (mid 4th-cent. BC). The Ponte Rotto, an 85-metre Fidardo has been much changed Roman bridge, stands nearby. over the centuries. Interesting fres- coes can be seen in the mid 14th- century church of the Madonna Vittorio Emanuele. At the end of delle Grazie in the locality of the the street is the church of Santa same name outside Cellere. Croce, with a fine Romanesque por- A pleasant walk (signposted at the tal; it contains a 16th-century Descent entrance to the town) leads to the from the Cross and wooden crucifix. Timone Park, among whose oak- The Farnese castle at the entrance to woods lies the source of the Timone the old town is noted for the Paul III river. The walk continues to Piania- Tower (after the Farnese pope be- lieved to have been born here). 2 Tourist Information: Via Ca- Nearby stands Palazzo Bonaparte. vour, tel. 0761 344787. The late 15th-century monastery of G q Restaurants and things San Francesco (incorporating to buy: see p. 106 Romanesque elements) lies at the f Feasts and fairs: see p. 106 northern end of the town. The WWF runs a Nature Reserve on the Fiora river, with good lookout points; the picturesque ruins of an- ★ THE CHURCH OF cient Castellardo lie 2 km out of Ca- ST. GILES: nino along the road to Ischia. A RENAISSANCE GEM Another interesting excursion can be Just before the gateway to the old made along the road from Canino to town, a road to the right leads the coast, via Musignano. The first 14 down to the beautifully-situated km bring us to Luciano Bonaparte’s church of Sant’Egidio, probably villa and scattered remains of the designed between 1500 and 1503 Roman baths. Just before the beach, by Antonio da Sangallo the we come to the interesting old town Younger for Alessandro Farnese of . The famous (later Pope Paul III). The Greek- Etruscan towns of and cross interior is richly frescoed , and the spectacular rock with – among other scenes – the tombs of Norchia, are also within figures of St. John the Evangelist relatively easy reach to the south. (depicted with eagle and gospel), and of local patron saint Giles Cellere (with deer and arrow), whose The history of this typical medieval feast is celebrated on the first town, which sits on a rocky spur Sunday in September. (elev. 344 m.), can be traced back to

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CELLERE

THE LAMONE NATURE RESERVE This 1,800-hectare reserve between century the woods were a hiding- the Olpeta and Arsa rivers to the place for brigands. The main (unsur- north of Farnese is a dense, mostly faced) roads across the reserve are untamed area of woodland rich in open to motor traffic, while the wildlife, and noted for its character- well-maintained and well-marked istic lavic rock formations (‘murce’). pathways attract horse riders, Other natural phenomena include mountain bike enthusiasts and hik- enormous inverted cone-shaped ers. Before heading off into the hollows filled with mosses and ferns, woods, however, newcomers are and the small rainwater tarns that advised to call in at the Reserve’s provide watering holes for the Head Office in Farnese (Palazzo wildlife and grazing animals and Comunale, Piazza Umberto I, tel. turn into grassy clearings in summer. 0761 458741-458381), which or- Traces of man’s presence here dates ganises walking tours and supplies back to the Paleolithic; in the 19th illustrative material.

no, a well-preserved medieval farm- habited). Originally an 11th-century ing village. fortress, it was transformed into a noble residence in the early 17th cen- Farnese tury. Many Farnese family members The very name of this town (elev. 341 are buried in the Convent of the m.) reveals its clear links with the Cappuccini, in Via San Francesco. powerful family that held sway in the The Romanesque church of San Sal- area in Renaissance times, and who vatore in Piazza Regina Margherita saved this town from the fate of has a 1711 belltower; inside are in- Castro, the ruins of which are just 8 teresting bas reliefs, early 17th-cen- km away (see p. 123). But although tury paintings and a remarkable the remains of a Bronze Age settle- monumental wooden tabernacle. ment have been found at nearby Various other monasteries and con- Sorgenti della Nova, little is known of vents are to be found just outside the the early history of this charming town, most notably the church of town by the Olpeta river near the Sant’Anna (see below) and the Lamone woods (see box). sanctuary of the Madonna delle Piazza Umberto I, the main square Grazie on the road to , dominated by the viaduct over the whose history of miracles is celebrat- town, has two large fountains. The ed on the last Sunday in May. town hall in the late 18th-century Pa- The small church of Sant’Anna at lazzo Ceccarini-Chigi houses the Le Piagge on the old road to Castro is Civic Museum (ancient archaeologi- remarkable for the bizarre decora- cal finds; medieval and Renaissance tions woven into its traditional reli- ceramics, see pag. 98). Amid the nar- gious frescoes: a collection of weird row winding streets of the medieval and wonderful grotesque figures town stands Palazzo Farnese, resi- (note for example the hooded devil- dence of the Farnese family for some priest) charged with arcane allegori- eight centuries (and still privately in- cal significance.

★ 2 Tourist Information: Piazza TYPICAL FOODSTUFFS Umberto I, tel. 0761 458381. Quality oil, cheeses and meats, in- y G Accommodation and re- cluding mouth-watering porchet- staurants: see p. 100 ta (roast sucking-pig) are all sold f Feasts and fairs: see p. 99 in Farnese (addresses on p. 101)

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GRADOLI

PALAZZO FARNESE Alessandro Farnese (who became ple of Gradoli in the 19th century Pope Paul III) commissioned Antonio and now houses the municipal of- da Sangallo to design this grand fices and an important Costume palace as a wedding gift for his son Museum. Pier Luigi, the later Duke of Castro. It The rooms have fireplaces and was hastily built between 1515 and wooden coffered ceilings that still 1526 over the remains of the me- bear traces of the Farnese lily inter- dieval castle, and much consolida- twined with the Orsini rose, the tion work was later required. After family symbol of Pier Luigi’s bride. the family’s defeat in the War of The two piani nobili have interesting Castro it was abandoned for half a frescoes and grotesques. The ser- century before being restored by vants’ quarters, kitchens and work- Pope Clement IX around 1716, but rooms are in the basement. Note al- was stripped of all decoration by the so the monumental staircase to the Napoleonic army and subsequent stables, which is broad enough to owners. It was returned to the peo- be ridden down on horseback.

Gradoli palace here is a living reminder. The medieval village of Gradoli (elev. A gateway leads into the central 470 m.) lies in an enviable position in- Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and the old side the crater of Lake Bolsena, with town; steps lead up to Palazzo a beautifully mild climate and over Farnese (see box). To the left of the eight kilometres of beach that can be palace stands the Baroque church of reached via signposted nature trails. Santa Maria Maddalena. Inside, Gradoli was long ruled by the note the hexagonal Renaissance bap- Farnese, founders of the Duchy of tismal font, the pulpit and the wood- Castro, and enjoyed a period of en confessionals. Renaissance fres- splendour of which the grand family coes and sacred furnishings can be seen in the adjoining Museo di Arte 2 Sacra. The church of San Michele Tourist Information: Piazza Arcangelo, in Via Cavour (probably Vittorio Emanuele 30 (tel./fax 0761 of ancient origin) has some interest- 456810). y G ing 15th-century Sienese school fres- Accommodation and re- coes. The church of San Pietro in staurants: see p. 62 Vinculis in Via della Madonna was much altered over the centuries. The church of San Vittore on a hill ★ FOOD AND WINE outside the town was built on the Gradoli is famous for its quality site where invading Saracens wines (Grechetto, Aleatico), its trapped by fog were unable to take olive oil, and a special kind of the town, an event re-evoked each bean (‘Fagiolo del Purgatorio’), year on 14 May. which is served along with fish About 7 km from Gradoli on the dishes at the town banquet held shores of the lake stands the late during the Festa degli Incappuc- 15th-century church of San Ma- ciati, a peculiar ancient festival, gno, where, every 19 August, the when sweet fritters are also so-called Papal Pardon of San Magno served. Other special biscuits and (granted to those who attended savoury cakes can be tasted at the matins and vespers here on this day) Feast of Santa Maria Maddalena is celebrated with a fête champêtre. on 22 July. For a full list of feasts and fairs and of where to buy Grotte di Castro Gradoli foodstuffs see pp. 62-63. This picturesque town, set amid olive groves and vineyards high up over

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GROTTE DI CASTRO

Lake Bolsena (elev. 467 m.), owes its ★ name to the caves dug out of the tu- ETRUSCAN TOMBS fa rock by the local population to es- 2 km outside Grotte di Castro, on cape the invading Longobards, and the road to Bolsena is the lake now used as warehouses. The town area’s first Archaeology Park, was destroyed by the Saracens in the with the Etruscan necropolis of 9th century but rose again, and Pianezze, a series of 6th-century many of the fine palaces in Grotte di BC chamber-type tombs on a ter- Castro date back to a happier period raced tufa ridge. One of the best in its history as the centre of the preserved is the so-called Red in the 16th century. Tomb, containing sculptures and However, the tombs in the surround- paintings. The Cento Camere ing area suggest that these hills were and Vigna della Piazza necrop- originally inhabited by the Etruscans olises, with their chest-type (see box). The locality of Civita to the tombs (some can be visited) are south-east of Castro has other re- located in a particularly atmos- mains from pre-Roman times: an pheric leafy setting. Many have aqueduct and other water channels, the pitched roofs typical of walls and roads as well as necropolis- Etruscan houses. es from the mid 7th century BC and earlier. The town is famous for its potatoes, Pietro Apostolo, whose original which are celebrated in a local festi- Romanesque belltower survives. val in mid-August. Palazzo Comunale, by Vignola, in Grotte di Castro can be visited on Piazza del Municipio, has a superb three levels: the panoramic itinerary spiral staircase. The road leading to is the lowest of the three, above the columbaria (ancient burial niches) which lies the medieval town begins in Piazza della Rocca, higher whose old workshops retain their an- up. Also worth seeing in the town cient doorways and signs (note the are the Museum of Archaeology 1563 Palazzo Innocenzo Iuzzi in and Popular Traditions, and the this section of the town). Here, too, is monumental fountain of 1886. the Basilica of Maria SS. del Suffra- gio e San Giovanni Battista, a Ischia di Castro 17th-century church (with Baroque The area around Ischia di Castro (elev. interior and an interesting antiquari- 384 m.), located at the confluence of um) built on the site of a much older two rivers and inhabited since place of worship. The third and high- Palaeolithic times, was chosen by ear- est tour takes us into the ly farming settlers for the good pro- Renaissance town, where we can tection it gave. Important Etruscan admire Castro’s fine 16th-century necropolises here include the so- palaces and the church of San called ‘Tomb of the Chariot’, named after the rare, two-wheeled vehicle 2 found inside, and now in the Museo Tourist Information: Via Ro- della Rocca Albornoz in Viterbo. ma, tel. 0763 796966. The Roma- nesque church of Santa Maria del- However, local history hinges around le Colonne is 2.5 km outside Grot- the year 1649, when papal troops de- te di Castro. y G Accommodation and re- 2 Tourist Information: Via San staurants: see p. 68 Rocco 2, tel. 0761 425455.. q Things to buy: see p. 69 y G Accommodation and re- f Feasts and fairs: see p. 70 staurants: see p. 95 f Feasts and fairs: see p. 96

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ISCHIA DI CASTRO stroyed ancient Castro (see box be- low) and deported its people to the RELIGIOUS EVENTS nearby medieval town of Ischia. This June is the month of the traditional pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of event marked the end of the Farnese Castro. The festival of the patron hold on the town, which subsequent- saint Ermete is held in early ly passed into church hands until the September. creation of the . The medieval town, with its narrow winding streets, massive gateways Civico di Ischia di Castro, a local his- and ruined walls, sits atop a tufa tory museum (closed Monday). crag. Piazza Regina Margherita is The sanctuary of the Madonna dominated by one of the oldest del Giglio, which dates back to the Farnese residences, Palazzo Ducale, early 1400s, stands in the valley be- an unfinished 16th-century recon- low the town. struction attributed to Antonio da Poggio Conte and Chiusa del Ve- Sangallo the Younger, who gave the scovo are two of several fascinating austere medieval castle a new hermitages built into rock in the Renaissance elegance. The Baroque countryside around Ischia (visits by Cathedral (dedicated to Sant'Er- prior arrangement in spring and mete) in a smaller square nearby has summer). an octagonal baptismal font of 1538, The remains of a grand Roman villa a Sienese-school fresco of the have been excavated at Selvicciola, Madonna del Popolo, and two 9th- near Vulci. Abandoned in around the century marble pulpits from the de- 5th century, the villa has a necropolis stroyed cathedral of San Savino in and church suggesting later occupa- ancient Castro. The small, recently- tion by Longobards. restored Romanesque church of San Rocco (good 16th-century fres- Latera coes) stands in Piazza Cavalieri di Situated in a volcanic crater to the Vittorio Veneto, the town hall square north-west of Lake Bolsena, the pic- that is also home to the Museo turesque town of Latera (elev. 508 m.) lies amid splendid countryside cloaked in chestnut trees. Chestnuts ★ THE ‘CARTHAGE are indeed the theme of a local au- OF THE MAREMMA’ tumn festival (on the last Sunday in October), just one of many tradition- Ancient Castro, a town inextrica- bly bound up with the history of al and cultural events held here. The the Farnese family, was made the annual Feast of Sant'Angelo (7-8-9 capital of the duchy of the same September), for example, features a name in 1547 by Pope Paul III market of livestock and other mer- Farnese, only to be wiped from chandise, entertainments and a fire- the face of the earth in 1649 by work display. Other colourful festivals the hatred of Pope Innocent X are held at Carnival and Easter time. Pamphili. A few overgrown ruins The town’s farming traditions are are all that survives of a place documented in the fascinating Mu- once graced by Sangallo’s beauti- seo della Terra (see box on p. 124). ful churches and palaces, al- This typically medieval town, with an though some features – such as the impressive fortifications, the 2 paving of the Renaissance square Tourist Information: Via Pia- ve, tel. 0761 459342. and the remains of the surround- G ing buildings – are still remark- Restaurants: see p. 78 f ably visible. Feasts and fairs: see p. 79

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LATERA

origin, while the chapel at San Rocco ★ THE ‘MUSEUM was probably built around 1400 as a OF THE LAND’ plea to St. Roche to spare the town of Housed in an ancient monastery the plague. grain store, Latera’s museum of folk and farming culture displays Onano an array of farming utensils and The palindromically-named town of household items that illustrate Onano (elev. 510 m.) lies 8 km from life not only in the town (artisan Acquapendente, Grotte di Castro workshops, the local market) but and Latera on the north-western also in the environment (the sur- slopes of near the bor- rounding woodland, geothermal der with Tuscany (the interesting energy sources etc.). Opening towns of , Sovana and Piti- times: see p. 77 gliano are within easy reach). Of Etruscan origin, the Onano area was overlooked by the Romans but even- Etruscan and Roman past (Marcus tually over-run by Barbarians. It was Aurelius is believed to have been then variously controlled by the named Emperor here), has also yield- Monaldeschi and Sforza families be- ed finds from Neolithic times (5000 fore coming under Church rule up to BC). Like other towns in the region it the Unification of Italy. It is famed for was sacked by Barbarians and fought its ancient lentil-growing tradition, over by the Church, Orvieto and local celebrated during festivals held in late feudal families. Its most stable period summer (see box). The patron saint of of rule was under the Farnese (until animals is celebrated with the roast- 1668), who built Palazzo Ducale in ing of meat on a big bonfire on Piazza della Rocca and a town January 17. The medieval town, with aqueduct (note also the two foun- its delightful winding streets con- tains). The historic center is a maze of tained within the remains of the old streets, steps and archways, above walls, is dominated by the austere which rises the elegant Latera bell- Castle (Palazzo Madama) in the main tower. Just before the main square square, an imposing quadrangular stands the church of San Clemente edifice with arched corbelling sup- (a Romanesque place of worship porting an upper crenellated parapet. much altered over the centuries, and The keep-style west wing was built in with a 1591 baptismal font). There the mid-1500s; the eastern section are many other churches in and was added later the same century. around the town. The church of San The interior is a sequence of majestic Giuseppe in Via San Giuseppe (of and solemn rooms and salons over a uncertain origin but known to have series of formidable underground existed in 1295) is associated with the passageways and storerooms. On the miracle of the Madonna who was death of the last Sforza, the castle seen to open her eyes to the faithful passed into the hands of the gathered here. The church of the Denhams, an Irish shipbuilding fami- Madonna del Carmine in Via Piave ly, and was retitled Palazzo Madama was built in 1800 over the remains of in honour of Carlotta Denham, a lady a tiny chapel too small to hold mass of great moral rectitude who was ex- in, while the church of Santa Maria tremely popular in the town. delle Grazie in Via Roma is probably late 16th century. Outside Latera is 2 Tourist Information: tel. the charming chapel of the Madon- 0763 78021, fax 0763 78391; (for na della Cava (probably pre-1400) in church visits call 0763 78565). the like-named locality; the chapel at f Feasts and fairs: see p. 74 San Sebastiano is also of uncertain

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ONANO

★ LOCAL LENTILS 2 Tourist Information: Piazza Indipendenza 17, tel. 0761 450832. The highly-prized, flavoursome Onano lentil (the lens culinaris medicus that is an excellent source of protein, iron and vita- f mins) has been cultivated here FEASTS AND FAIRS since ancient times. It is served The Piansano year is punctuated by in a variety of dishes washed the Feast of St. Bernard in late May down with wine at the Lentil (with a horse race and historic Festival in the week of 15 pageant), and the Feast of the August, held in conjunction with Madonna del Rosario on the 1st the feast of the local patron Sunday in October when the fa- saint, San Trifone. mous ‘tortello’ (a ricotta-filled pas- try) is served.

The church of Santa Croce in Piazza and its subsequent history followed Pio XII was rebuilt in 1956; the the historical developments of other church of Santa Maria della Con- towns in the area. cezione in Via Cavour dates back to Palazzo Comunale, which stands in 1784. The Romanesque church of the main street of the old town, has Santa Maria alle Grazie (outside an interesting Baroque portico, with the town at Le Grazie) with Sienese curious figured columns. Further on, school frescoes is Onano’s oldest; the in Piazza Marconi, is the church of Madonna del Soccorso (at La Fon- San Bernardino. tana) was built in 1454, the Ma- Piansano has its own local arts maga- donna del Piano in 1493, and the zine, town band, choir, and a group Madonna della SS. Trinità with its of flag-throwers which performs in supposedly miraculous waters (at Italy and abroad. Crafts include wood Scardi) dates back to 1668. sculpture and painted glassware. In the 1960s the town was used as one Piansano of the locations for Mario Monicelli’s Piansano (elev. 409 m.) sits on a tufa ‘Brancaleone’, starring Vittorio spur amid rolling countryside in what Gassman. The nearby fountain is was once a marshy area inside a small seen in an early scene of the film. volcanic crater. Its ancient wine- growing traditions (recalled in the Proceno town’s crest) have now all but given The picturesque village of Proceno way to cereal crops and sheep-farm- (elev. 418 m.), thought to be of ing. The area was settled in Neolithic Etruscan origin, lies 7 km north-west times, and the archaeological remains of Acquapendente (note the church- of an Etrusco-Roman town to the es of Santa Maria del Giglio and south-east of present-day Piansano San Martino on the way up). In the are thought to be the Maternum de- main square stands the imposing Pa- scribed on the ‘Peutingerian Tablet’ as lazzo degli Sforza of 1535, with lying between Tuscania and Saturnia frescoes and coffered ceilings inside. on the Via Clodia. The town disap- Steps beside the Town Hall lead peared for centuries: it was men- down to the small Museo della Ci- tioned in the Middle Ages as a con- viltà Contadina. Further down is tested part of the church territories the medieval Rocca, or castle (now and seigniorial estates, but not until converted to provide holiday accom- 1537 with the creation of the duchy modation), the 16th-century church of Castro did it once again begin to of Santa Maria della Neve, and the flourish. It was repopulated in 1560, Parish Church, which has a fine

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PROCENO 2 f Tourist Information: Piazza FEASTS della Libertà 1, tel. 0763 710003. AND OTHER LOCAL EVENTS y G Accommodation and re- The famed local potatoes are the staurants: see p. 36 main ingredient of ‘gnocchi’, a festi- val of which is held around 15 August. For a full list of oils, pasta and f cheese on sale in the town see p. 41 FEASTS AND OTHER LOCAL EVENTS ly modern grid pattern of streets, in In early August a festival dedicated which noble palaces rub shoulders to the sale of the prized red garlic with more humble buildings, in ac- that grows in the vicinity. For a full cordance with the enlightened ideas list of feasts and fairs: see p. 36 of the day. In one interesting corner in a square off the main Corso there Gothic portal and 14th-century fres- is a fountain dating back to 1778. coes inside. Further up note the round church of Sant’Agnese. Valentano The busy farming town of Valentano San Lorenzo Nuovo (elev. 538 m), superbly situated on San Lorenzo Nuovo, which sits right the south-western slopes of Monti on the Via Cassia between Bolsena Volsini, was once an important cen- and Acquapendente on the northern tre for the quarrying of the special slopes of the Lake Bolsena crater, is red clay used for tennis courts, while an interesting example of 18th-cen- the surrounding scrubland used to tury town-planning. The design of be notorious as a hideout for local the new town by architect Francesco brigands. The town affords views Navone, who was commissioned by across to Lake Bolsena and to the tiny Pope Clement XIV to move the pop- circular Lake Mezzano (see box). ulation out of the insalubrious old The main Piazza Cavour is entered town down by the lake, is based on through Porta Magenta (1779): the Copenhagen’s Amalienborg Square. curious mascheron in the keystone is It centres around the octagonal Piaz- thought to have been included by za Europa, in which stands the the builders of the gateway to silence cathedral of San Lorenzo Martire, critics of the work. Corso Plebiscito, a harmoniously-designed church beginning to the right of the 16th- containing canvases by Florentine century Municipio in the main artist Jacopo Zucchi and a much ven- square, runs into Via Cialdini, which erated 13th-century wooden crucifix in turn leads up to Piazza della Vit- that is celebrated in a solemn cere- toria. Here we encounter the 12th- mony every 14 September. The century collegiate church of San Danish capital also served as the Giovanni Evangelista (whose cam- model for the layout of the main panile houses bells from the ruined streets leading off from the square, town of Castro) and the Castle, re- most notably Corso Umberto I, built by the Farnese from the 14th which ends at the church of Santa century onwards over an earlier Maria Assunta (1784), originally fortress, hence the name ‘Rocca Far- part of a Capuchin monastery. The nese’. It was recently renovated and rest of the town displays a surprising- now houses an impressive Library and the Museo della Preistoria e 2 della Rocca Farnese (see p. 83), Tourist Information: Piazza whose many treasures include a col- Europa 30, tel. 0763 727003. lection of finely-decorated medieval y G Accommodation and re- and Renaissance majolica ceramics staurants: see p. 39 discovered by chance in the 1980s.

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VALENTANO

2 Tourist Information: Piazza ★ CAKES AND CHICKPEAS della Vittoria 8, tel. 0761 422486. Valentano is well known for one y G Accommodation and re- staurants: see p. 86 interesting ancient ceremony q held among much feasting in Things to buy: see p. 84 Valentano on 15 August and f Feasts and fairs: see p. 87 called the ‘straight chickpea fur- row’, in which a 5 km-long furrow is marked out across the plain. The elegant church of Santa Maria Tradition has it that the straighter in Corso Matteotti (or Strada di the line traced, the greater the Santa Maria), part of an institute oc- harvest will be. cupied by a congregation of nuns, contains an interesting ancient fresco and a statue of the Madonna. This Martino opens up. street ends at the medieval Porta The church of Santa Croce in Piaz- San Martino, a gateway flanked by zale Diaz, which dates back to the ruined towers, beyond which the early 15th century, boasts an excel- leafy and panoramic Piazzale San lent ancient fresco of the Madonna of the Flagellants (the church possibly stood on a Flagellant pilgrimage ★ LAKE MEZZANO route). The image of the Virgin in the Thought to be the statoniensis la- church of the Madonna del Monte cus described by Pliny and Sene- on Mt. Nero (1852) was revered by a ca, the beautiful blue-green Lake Zouave garrison, as graffiti scratched Mezzano, picturesquely situated on the left-hand wall reveals. The 4 km north-west of Valentano, church of Santa Annunziata at has yielded Bronze-Age finds Villa Fontane was built to replace from a now submerged pile- an older place of worship, whose dwelling settlement that are now medieval structure can still be seen in the Prehistory Museum in Va- on the eastern side of Villa Fontane, lentano. The surrounding area, originally owned by the Knights which is ideal for walks and pic- nics, boasts an ancient oak more Templar. The sanctuary of the Ma- than 300 years old. donna della Salute is half a kilome- tre out of town.

Index of places

Acquapendente 115 Latera 123 Madonna Bisentina Island 117 Marta 117 della Salute 127 Bolsena 116 Martana Madonna Canino 118 Island 117 delle Grazie 120 Capodimonte 117 Monte Rufeno Selvicciola 123 Castellardo 119 Nature Reserve 115 Sorano 124 Castro 123 Montefiascone 117 Sovana 124 Cellere 119 Onano 124 Tarquinia 119 Sant'Anna 120 Orvieto 117 Timone Park 120 Sant'Egidio 119 Pianezze 122 Torre Alfina 116 Farnese 120 Pianiano 120 Trevinano 116 Gradoli 121 Piansano 125 Turona 116 Grotte di Castro 121 124 Tuscania 119 Ischia di Castro 122 Poggio Moscini 116 Valentano 126 Lake Bolsena 117 Proceno 125 Viterbo 117 Lake Mezzano 127 San Lorenzo Vulci 119 Lamone Nuovo 126 WWF Nature Nature Reserve 120 Madonna del Giglio 123 Reserve 119

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