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Southern Rome (PDF Chapter) Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 21 Page Range 193–204, 214–222 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Useful Links • Neighbourhood Top Five Want more guides? Head to our shop • Local Life • Getting There & Trouble with your PDF? Away Trouble shoot here • Sights Need more help? • Eating Head to our FAQs • Drinking & Nightlife Stay in touch • Entertainment Contact us here • Sleeping

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Southern Rome VIA APPIA ANTICA | OSTIENSE | SAN PAOLO | GARBATELLA

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Walking or cycling 3 Checking out the col- 5 Feeling dwarfed by the along the Via Appia ­Antica ourful, edgy street art in majesty of Basilica de San (p103), tracing the route of Ostiense (p202). Paolo Fuori Le Mura (p200). a thousand ancient Roman 4 Wandering around the footsteps. ingenious location for the 2 Exploring Rome’s overflow from the Capitoline ­Christian burial catacombs, Museums: Centrale Mon- such as the Catacombe di temartini (p201). San Sebastiano (p196).

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For more detail of this area see Map p326 A 194 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Southern Rome On Sunday, the first section Southern Rome is a sprawling neighbourhood that of Appia Antica is suppos- comprises four distinct areas of interest to tourists: edly traffic free, but in re- Via Appia Antica, famous for its catacombs; hip, post- cent years this has not been industrial, street-art-covered Via Ostiense; picturesque enforced. The first section, Garbatella; and EUR, Mussolini’s futuristic building de- stretching 1km from Porta velopment. It’s all quite spread out, but public transport San Sebastiano, is not at connections are good. all pleasant to walk along, Heading southeast from Porta San Sebastiano, Via even on supposedly ‘traffic Appia Antica (the Appian Way) is one of the world’s free’ days. It’s best to take oldest roads and a much-prized Roman address. It’s a bus 118 to the Basilica of beautiful part of town, with crumbling ruins set amid San Sebastiano, close to pea-green fields and towering umbrella pines. the genuinely traffic-free To the west, Via Ostiense presents a very different pic- section. ture. Desolate-looking disused factories and warehouses surprisingly harbour restaurants, pubs, clubs and bars, and the huge Eataly, a restaurant and Italian foodstuffs 5 Best Places complex. Planned redevelopments for the ex-Mercati to Eat Generali as a ‘City of Youth’ – comprising leisure, cul- tural and office space and designed by Rem Koolhaas ¨¨Trattoria Priscilla (p201) – have started but stalled. Southern R ¨¨Qui Non se More Mai Ostiense also harbours a couple of gemlike sights: (p201) Centrale Montemartini, a disused power plant housing ¨¨Il Giardino di Giulia e superb classical statuary, and Basilica di San Paolo fuori Fratelli (p201) le Mura, the world’s third-largest church. The area also ¨¨Andreotti (p202) has some of Rome’s best street art, with entire buildings

ome ¨¨Pizza Ostiense (p202) covered in rainbows of colour. Nearby, the character- filled Garbatella district merits exploration for its origi-

For reviews, see p201.A

nal architecture, while further south, EUR was built by  Mussolini as a showcase for his Fascist regime, a fasci- nating, Orwellian quarter of wide boulevards and linear 6 Best Places buildings. to Drink ¨¨Porto Fluviale (p203) ¨¨Doppiozeroo (p203) Local Life ¨¨Neo Club (p203) ¨Eating Pick up some delicious pastries at Andreotti ¨¨Goa (p203) (p202) or sampling the virtuoso pizza at Pizza Ostiense (p202). For reviews, see p203.A ¨Clubbing Some of Rome’s coolest clubs are clustered around Via Ostiense. ¨Cycling Escape from the frenetic city centre along the 1 Best beautiful Appian Way (p103). Entertainment ¨¨La Casa del Jazz (p204) ¨¨Caffè Letterario (p204) Getting There & Away ¨¨Goa (p203) ¨Metro Metro line B runs to Piramide, Garbatella, ¨¨Piscina delle Rose (p203) Basilica San Paolo, EUR Palasport and EUR Fermi. For reviews, see p204.A ¨Bus There are bus connections to Porta San Sebastiano (118, 218 and 714), Via Ostiense (23 and 716) and Via Appia Antica (118). VIA APPIA ANTICA ALESSANDRO0770 /GETTY IMAGES © Heading southeast from Porta San Sebastiano, the DON’T MISS… Appian Way (Appian Way) was known to the Romans as the regina viarum (queen of roads). Named after Appius ¨¨The catacombs Claudius Caecus, who laid the first 90km section in 312 ¨¨Cycling along the BC, it was extended in 190 BC to reach Brindisi, some Appia 540km away on the southern Adriatic coast. ¨¨Villa dei Quintilli Via Appia Antica has long been one of Rome’s most ex- clusive addresses, a beautiful cobblestoned thoroughfare flanked by grassy fields, Roman structures and towering PRACTICALITIES Villa dei pine trees. Most splendid of the ancient houses was ¨¨Map p326 Quintilli – so desirable that emperor Commodus murdered ¨¨%06 513 53 16 its owners and took it for himself. The Appia Antica, peaceful today, resounds with histo- ¨¨www.parcoappia­ ry: it’s where Spartacus and 6000 of his slave rebels were antica.it ­crucified in 71 BC, and around it lie 300km of underground ¨¨bike hire hr/day tunnels that were carved out of soft tufa rock, and used €3/15 as burial chambers by the early Christians. Corpses were ¨¨hInformation wrapped in simple white sheets and usually placed in rec- Point 9.30am-1pm & tangular niches carved into the walls, which were then 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, closed with marble or terracotta slabs. You can’t visit all 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & 300km, but three major catacombs (San Callisto, San Sebas- Sun, to 5pm winter tiano and Santa Domitilla) are open for guided exploration.­ ¨¨gVia Appia Antica If you’re planning on really doing the sights, think about buying the Appia Antica Card. Near the start of the road, the Appia Antica Regional Park Information Point is very informative. You can buy a map of the park here and hire bikes. To be sure of a bike, arrive early, as they run out quickly. Child-sized bikes aren’t available, but child seats (up to 20kg) are; book these in advance as there are not many available. The park runs tours on foot/by bike (€8/12) in English, Spanish and German, which have to be booked by email in advance. 196

BASILICA & CATACOMBE DI SAN SEBASTIANO

The most famous of the catacombs, these contain DON’T MISS… frescoes, stucco work, epigraphs and several immaculately preserved mausoleums. The catacombs ¨¨Graffiti to St Peter extend for more than 12km and are divided into three and St Paul levels: 3m, 9m and 12m deep. They once harboured ¨¨Mausoleums more than 65,000 tombs. ¨¨Basilica di San Sebastiano Basilica The 4th-century basilica (Via Appia Antica 136; h8am-1pm & PRACTICALITIES 2-5.30pm; gVia Appia Antica) that was built here by Emperor Constantine was mostly destroyed by Saracen raids in the ¨¨Map p326, G5 9th century, and the church you see today mainly dates ¨¨%06 785 03 50 from the reconstruction initiated by Cardinal Borghese in ¨¨www.catacombe.org the 17th century. It is dedicated to St Sebastian, who was martyred and buried here in the late 3rd century. In 826 ¨¨Via Appia Antica 136 his body was transferred to St Peter’s for safekeeping, but ¨¨adult/reduced €8/5 he was re-interred here in the 12th century. In the Capella ¨¨h10am-5pm Mon- delle Reliquie you’ll find one of the arrows used to kill him Sat, closed Dec and the column to which he was tied. On the other side of ¨¨gVia Appia Antica the church is a marble slab with Jesus’ footprints.

Catacombs A warren of tunnels that lie beneath the church and beyond, the Catacombe di San Se- bastiano were the first catacombs to be so called, the name deriving from the Greek kata (near) and kymbas (cavity), because they were located near a cave. During the persecution of Christians by the emperor Vespasian from AD 258, it’s believed that the catacombs were used as a safe haven for the remains of St Peter and St Paul and became a popular pilgrimage site. A plastered wall is covered with hundreds of invocations, engraved by worshippers in the 3rd and 4th centuries, featuring personalised entreaties such as ‘Peter and Paul, pray for Victor’. However, it may be the case that the remains were never kept here, and the catacombs simply served as a focus for worship during those difficult times.

Mausoleums Within the catacombs there are three beautifully preserved, decorated mausoleums. Each of the monumental facades feature a door, above which are inscribed symbols and the names of the owners. The first mausoleum belonged to Marcus Clodius Ermete, while the second one is named ‘of the innocentiores’, which is thought to have been the name of an association. During the 3rd century the area was filled in to build a place of pilgrimage where visitors could come to honour St Peter and St Paul, which is why the delicate stucco has remained so immaculately well-preserved. 197 1 SIGHTS CAPO DI BOVE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE (%06 7839 2729; Via Appia Antica 222; h9am- The awe-inspiring Appian Way stretches 1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat) Discovered when south of Rome, dotted by Roman ruins excavating the grounds of a private villa to above and riddled with catacombs below. build a swimming pool, the remains of this Roman villa give a sense of how a gracious ancient Roman life was lived, with mosaics 1 Via Appia Antica and the remains of its private bath house, CATACOMBE DI set amid the countryside of the Appia An- SAN SEBASTIANO CATACOMB tica Regional Park.

See p196. VILLA DEI QUINTILI RUIN (%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via Appia VILLA DI MASSENZIO RUINS Nuova 1092; adult/reduced incl Terme di Caracal- Map p326 (%06 780 13 24; www.villadimassen- la & Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella €7/4; h9am-1hr zio.it; Via Appia Antica 153; h9am-1pm Tue-Sat; before sunset Tue-Sun; gVia Appia Antica) gVia Appia Antica) The outstanding feature Tow- of Maxentius’ enormous 4th-century pal- ering over green fields, this 2nd-century villa is one of Rome’s unsung splendours. ace complex is the Circo di Massenzio (Map p326; Via Appia Antica 153; gVia Appia Antica), It was the luxurious abode of two consuls, Rome’s best-preserved ancient racetrack – the Quintili brothers, but its splendour was you can still make out the starting stalls their downfall. The emperor Commodus used for chariot races. The 10,000-seat had them both killed, taking over the villa arena was built by Maxentius around 309, for himself. You may now enter the complex Southern R but he died before ever seeing a race here. from the Via Appia entrance (previously its Above the arena are the ruins of Maxen- only entrance was from Via Appia Nuova), tius’ imperial residence. Near the racetrack, making it much more accessible. The emperor added to the complex, and the Mausoleo di Romolo (Tombo di Romolo; g the ruins are fabulously impressive. The Map p326; Via Appia Antica 153; Via Appia An- ome tica) was built by Maxentius for his 17-year- highlight is the well-preserved baths com- plex with a pool, caldarium (hot room) and old son Romulus. The huge mausoleum was frigidarium (cold room). There’s an inter- S originally crowned with a large dome and ights surrounded by an imposing colonnade, in esting small museum. part still visible. The Torlonia family ex- CATACOMBE DI SAN CALLISTO CATACOMB tended the tomb, turning it into a country Map p326 (%06 513 01 51; www.catacombe. house. roma.it; Via Appia Antica 110 & 126; adult/reduced €8/5; h9am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Wed & Feb; MAUSOLEO DI CECILIA METELLA RUIN gVia Appia Antica) Map p326 (%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture. These are the largest and it; Via Appia Antica 161; adult/reduced incl Terme busiest of Rome’s catacombs. Founded at di Caracalla & Villa dei Quintili €7/4; h9am-1hr the end of the 2nd century and named af- before sunset Tue-Sun; gVia Appia Antica) Dat- ter Pope Calixtus I, they became the official ing to the 1st century BC, this great drum cemetery of the newly established Roman of a mausoleum encloses a burial chamber, Church. In the 20km of tunnels explored to now roofless. In the 14th century it was date, archaeologists have found the tombs converted into a fort by the Caetani fam- of 500,000 people and seven popes who ily, who were related to Pope Boniface VIII, were martyred in the 3rd century. and used to frighten passing traffic into The patron saint of music, St Cecilia, was paying a toll. also buried here, though her body was later The tomb was built for the daughter of removed to the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in the consul Quintus Metellus Creticus. Ce- Trastevere. When her body was exhumed cilia Metella was of particular significance in 1599, more than a thousand years after as she joined two important families by her death, it was apparently perfectly pre- marriage – she was also daughter-in-law of served, as depicted in Stefano Maderno’s Crassus, Julius Caesar’s banker. The walls softly contoured sculpture, a replica of are made of travertine and the interior is which is here. decorated with a sculpted frieze featuring Gaelic shields, ox skulls and festoons. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 198

Roman Catacombs Ancient Roman law forbade burying the for 7 years, 2 months; (her) parents made dead within the city walls, for reasons (this) for their dearest daughter’. of hygiene. Rome’s persecuted Christian community didn’t have their own Symbolism cemeteries, so in the 2nd century AD they An almost secretive language of symbols began to build an extensive network of had evolved to represent elements of subterranean burial grounds outside the the Christian faith. Since many early Christians could not read and write, city. these symbols served as both a secret The tombs were dug by specialised code and a means to communicate gravediggers, who tunnelled out the among the illiterate. The most common galleries. Bodies were wrapped in of the symbols include the fish, the Greek simple shrouds and then either placed word for which is ichthys, standing individually in carved-out niches, called for Iesous Christos Theou Yios Soter loculi, or in larger family tombs. Many (Jesus Christ, son of God, Saviour). The tombs were marked with elaborate anchor, which also appears regularly, decorations, from frescoes to stucco work, symbolises the belief in Christ as a safe which remain remarkably well preserved. haven, a comforting thought in times of A great many tombs discovered here persecution. It’s thought, too, that this bear touching inscriptions, such as the was again an example of Greek wordplay: following: ‘Apuleia Crysopolis, who lived ankura resembling en kuriol, which means ‘in the Lord’. A dove with an olive 199 DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI / GETTY IMAGES © DEA / G CARGAGNA / GETTY IMAGES ©

Crypt of the Popes,

1. DEA / V. PIROZZI / GETTY IMAGES © Catacombe di San Callisto (p197) 2. Catacombe di Priscilla (p188) 3. Wall fresco in Catacombe di San Callisto (p197)

branch in the beak is a reference to the Unless you’re passionate about catacombs, biblical dove, meaning salvation. visiting one set will be sufficient. Abandonment The catacombs began to be abandoned as early as 313, when Constantine issued the TOP 5 CATACOMB READS Milan decree of religious tolerance and Christians were thus able to bury their dead in churchyards. ¨¨The Roman Catacombs, by James In about 800, after frequent incursions Spencer Northcote (1859) by invaders, the bodies of the martyrs ¨¨Tombs and Catacombs of the Appian and first popes were transferred to the Way: History of Cremation, by Olinto L basilicas inside the city walls for safe Spadoni (1892) keeping. The catacombs were abandoned ¨¨Valeria, the Martyr of the Catacombs, and by the Middle Ages many had been by WH Withrow (1892) forgotten. ¨¨Christian Rome: Past and Present: Early Since the 19th century, more than 30 Christian Rome Catacombs and Basilicas, catacombs have been uncovered in the by Philippe Pergola (2002) area. The warren of tunnels are fascinating ¨¨The Churches and Catacombs of Early to explore, and sections of three sets of Christian Rome: A Comprehensive Guide catacombs are accessible via guided tour. by Matilda Webb (2001) 200

BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA

The world’s third-largest church and the biggest in DON’T MISS… Rome after St Peter’s, this magnificent basilica stands on the site where St Paul was buried after being decapi- ¨¨5th-century tated in AD 67. Built by Constantine in the 4th century, it triumphal arch was largely destroyed by fire in 1823 . and mosaics Much of what you see today is a 19th-century recon- ¨¨Papal portraits struction, which remained as faithful as possible to the ¨¨Cloister original building. However, not everything was deci- mated in the fire; many treasures survived, including the 5th-century triumphal arch, with its heavily restored PRACTICALITIES mosaics, and the Gothic marble tabernacle over the ¨¨Map p326 high altar. Arnolfo di Cambio designed this around 1285, ¨¨www.abbaziasan- together with another artist, possibly Pietro Cavallini. paolo.net Doom-mongers should check out the papal portraits beneath the nave windows. Every pope since St Peter ¨¨Via Ostiense 190 is represented and legend has it that when there is no ¨¨cloisters €4, ar- room for the next portrait, the world will fall. chaeological walk €4, The stunning 13th-century Cosmati mosaic work in audioguide €5 Southern R the cloisters of the adjacent Benedictine abbey also ¨¨h7am-6.30pm survived the 1823 fire, and is well worth a visit. Here, ¨¨mSan Paolo unusually, the mosaic work decorated the spiralled, twisted and straight columns. ome

S MAUSOLEO DELLE the private burial ground of Flavia Domit- ights FOSSE ARDEATINE MONUMENT illa, niece of the emperor Domitian and Map p326 (%06 513 67 42; Via Ardeatina 174; a member of the wealthy Flavian family. h8.15am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun; They contain Christian wall paintings and gVia Appia Antica) F This moving mauso- the haunting underground Chiesa di SS leum is dedicated to the victims of Rome’s Nereus e Achilleus, a 4th-century church worst WWII atrocity. Buried here, outside dedicated to two Roman soldiers martyred the Ardeatine Caves, are 335 Italians shot by Diocletian. by the Nazis on 24 March 1944. Follow- ing the massacre, ordered in reprisal for a CHIESA DEL DOMINE partisan attack, the Germans used mines QUO VADIS? CHURCH to explode sections of the caves and bury Map p326 (Via Appia Antica 51; h8am-6.30pm the bodies. After the war, the bodies were Mon-Fri, 8.15am-6.45pm Sat & Sun winter, to exhumed, identified and reburied in a mass 7.30pm summer; gVia Appia Antica) This pint- grave, now marked by a huge concrete slab sized church marks the spot where St Peter, and sculptures. fleeing Rome, met a vision of Jesus going The site also has a tiny museum dedicat- the other way. When Peter asked: ‘Domine, ed to the Italian Resistance (doors close 15 quo vadis?’ (Lord, where are you going?), minutes before the rest of the site). Jesus replied, ‘Venio Roman iterum cruci- figi’ (I am coming to Rome to be crucified CATACOMBE DI again). Reluctantly deciding to join him, SANTA DOMITILLA CATACOMB ­Peter tramped back into town where he was Map p326 (%06 511 03 42; www.domitilla.info; arrested and executed. Via delle Sette Chiese 283; adult/reduced €8/5; In the aisle are copies of Christ’s foot- h9am-noon & 2-5pm Wed-Mon, closed Jan; gVia prints; the originals are in the Basilica di Appia Antica) Among Rome’s largest and San Sebastiano. oldest, these wonderful catacombs stretch for about 18km. They were established on 201 MUSEO DELLE MURA MUSEUM Innocenzo Sabbatini, the leading light of the Map p326 (%06 7047 5284; www.museodel- ‘Roman School’ of architecture. The most lemuraroma.it; Via di Porta San Sebastiano 18; famous, Albergo Rosso (Map p326; Piazza h9am-2pm Tue-Sun; gPorta San Sebastiano) Michele da Carbonara), is typical of the style. Marking the start of Via Appia Antica, the Other trademark buildings are the Scu- 5th-­century Porta San Sebastiano is the ola Cesare Battisti (Map p326; Piazza Damiano largest of the gates in the Aurelian Wall. Sauli) on Piazza Damiano Sauli and Teatro During WWII the Fascist Party secretary Palladium on Piazza Bartolomeo­ Romano. Ettore Muti lived here; today it houses the modest Museo delle Mure, which offers the chance to walk along the top of the walls for around 50m as well as displaying the his- 5 EATING tory of the city’s fortifications. The increasingly fashionable southern The gate was originally known as Porta neighbourhoods of Ostiense and Garba­ Appia but took on its current name in tella feature some excellent restaurants, honour of the thousands of pilgrims who including those in Ostiense’s Eataly passed under it on their way to the Cata- complex. You can also eat well in a rural combe di San Sebastiano. setting close to Via Appia Antica.

1 Ostiense, San Paolo & 5 Via Appia Antica

Garbatella TRATTORIA PRISCILLA TRATTORIA €€ Southern R Heading south from Stazione Roma-Ostia, Map p326 (%06 513 63 79; Via Appia Antica 68; the gritty Via Ostiense encompasses clubs meals €30; h1-3pm daily, 8-11pm Mon-Sat; gVia in converted warehouses and a couple of Appia Antica) Set in a 16th-century former sta- notable sights. Street-art fans are in for a ble, this intimate family-run trattoria has treat, particularly on Via del Porto Fluviale. been feeding hungry travellers along the Appian Way for more than a hundred years, ome CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS AT CENTRALE serving up traditional cucina Romana, so

MONTEMARTINI MUSEUM E

think carbonara, amatriciana (bacon and ating % Map p326 ( 06 06 08; www.centralemonte­ tomato sauce) and cacio e pepe (cheese and martini.org; Via Ostiense 106; adult/reduced pepper). The tiramisu wins plaudits. €7.50/6.50, incl Capitoline Museums €16/14, valid 7 days; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; gVia Ostiense) QUI NON SE MORE MAI ITALIAN €€ Housed in a former power station, this fabu- Map p326 (%06 780 3922; Via Appia Antica 198; lous outpost of the Capitoline ­Museums meals around €40; h12.30-3pm & 6.30-11.30pm (Musei Capitolini) boldly juxtaposes classi- Tue-Sat; gVia Appia Antica) This small, charis- cal sculpture against diesel engines and gi- matically rustic restaurant has an open fire ant furnaces. The collection’s highlights are for grilling, plus a small terrace for when in the Sala Caldaia, where ancient statu- the weather’s good. The menu offers Roman ary strike poses around the giant furnace.­ classics such as pasta amatriciana, carbon- Beautiful pieces include ­Fanciulla Seduta ara, alla gricia (with pig’s cheek), cacio e (Seated Girl) and Musa Polimnia­ (Muse Pol- pepe, and so on. Just the thing to set you up yhymnia), and there are also some exquisite for the road ahead. Roman ­mosaics, depicting favourite sub- jects such as hunting scenes and foodstuffs. IL GIARDINO DI GIULIA E FRATELLI ITALIAN €€ QUARTIERE GARBATELLA AREA Map p326 (%347 5092772; Via Appia Antica 176; Map p326 (mGarbatella) A favourite location meals €25-30; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-Sat; for TV and film-makers, Quartiere Garba- gVia Appia Antica) Almost opposite the tomb tella was originally conceived as a workers’ of Cecilia Metella, this is lovely, especially residential quarter, but in the 1920s the Fas- when the weather is good, as there’s seat- cists hijacked the project and used the area ing out in the garden, as well as inside with to house people who’d been displaced by greenery-filled views. It’s ideal for lunch or construction work in the city. Many people aperitivo, and a particularly good family were moved into alberghi suburbani (subur- choice. There’s a simple menu of mains such ban hotels), big housing blocks designed by as lasagne or meatballs. 202 EATALY ITALIAN € 5 Ostiense, San Paolo Map p326 (%06 9027 9201; www.eataly.net/ it_en; Air Terminal Ostiense, Piazzale XII Ottobre & Garbatella 1492; hshop 10am-midnight, restaurants noon- PIZZA OSTIENSE PIZZA € 11.30pm; mPiramide) Eataly is an enormous, Map p326 (Via Ostiense 56; h6.30pm-1am; mall-like complex, a glittering, gleaming, mPyramide) Run by folk formerly of the somewhat confusing department store, much-lauded classic Roman pizzeria Remo, entirely devoted to Italian food. As well as in Testaccio, Pizza Ostiense offers simi- foodstuffs from all over the country, books, larly paper-thin, crispy bases and delicious and cookery implements, the store is also fresh toppings and scrumptious fritti (fried home to 19 cafes and restaurants, includ- things) in unfussy surroundings, with a ing excellent pizzas, pasta dishes, ice cream friendly vibe. and more.

ANDREOTTI PASTRIES € PORTO FLUVIALE TRATTORIA, PIZZA €€ Map p326 (%06 575 07 73; Via Ostiense 54; Map p326 (%06 574 31 99; www.portofluvi- h7.30am-9.30pm; gVia Ostiense) Film director ale.com; Via del Porto Fluviale 22; meals €35; and Ostiense local Ferzan Ozpetek is such h10.30am-2am; mPiramide) A hip, buzzing a fan of the pastries here he’s been known restaurant in the industrial-chic vein, Porto to cast them in his films. They’re all stars, Fluviale is a great space and a good place from the buttery crostate (tarts) to the piles to go with families: it’s lively, spacious and of golden sfogliatelle romane (ricotta-filled good value, offering pasta, pizza and cic-

Southern R pastries). You can also eat a cheap lunch or chetti (tapas-style appetisers, such as arti- dinner here from the tasty tavola calda (hot choke and ham bruschetta) that are served table), with pasta dishes ringing in at €5. until late.

ome OSTIENSE STREET ART Rome’s street-art scene has exploded in recent years, with many of Rome’s less

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ating picturesque suburbs given a burst of colour via some astounding, mammoth murals. Rome’s tourist kiosks are even offering a free street-art map to help you explore, and different street-art itineraries for various areas are available online at www.turismo- roma.it. The ex-industrial units and alternative culture of Ostiense have created an ideal marriage between edgy street artists and grey wallspace in need of some colour. With over 30 works, this area is one of the best parts of Rome to wander and enjoy the outdoor gallery. Rome’s annual Outdoor Festival was the source of many works, while others were supported by the gallery 999 Contemporary (www.999gallery.com), which has a de- tailed map of works in Ostiense online at www.ostiensedistrict.it. Highlights include the murals on a former military warehouse (Map p326; Via del Porto Fluviale), where the entire building is covered in a rainbow of sinister faces, incorporating the building’s 48 arched windows as eyes. These apparently represent the evils of homelessness, on a building that has been a long-term squat. A fantastical mural on the side of the building shows a boat topped by cranes and robots. These are all the work of Italian artist Blu (www.blublu.org), from Bologna, who completed the works in 2014. Another place to look out for (but mind the traffic as you explore) is the underpass on Via delle Conce, with works by artists Lucamaleonte and Gaucholadri, among others. Further up Via Ostiense, near Centrale Montmartini, is another work by Blu depicting interlocking yellow cars that covers the entire facade of the social centre, Alexis (Map p326; Via Ostiense 122). The centre is named for Alexis Grigoropoulos, the 15-year-old student who was killed, allegedly by a police bullet, during demonstrations in Greece in 2008 – the mural incorporates his portrait and the date of his death Other areas to look out for some great street art include Pigneto, San Basilio, San Lorenzo and Testaccio. 203 DRINKING & PORTO FLUVIALE BAR 6 Map p326 (%06 574 31 99; www.portofluviale. NIGHTLIFE com; Via del Porto Fluviale 22; h10.30am-2am; The ex-industrial area of Ostiense is mPiramide) A large bar in a converted fertile clubbing land, with its many ­factory, this has an ex-industrial look – warehouses, workshops and factories dark-green walls and a brickwork floor given a new lease of life as pockets of – and is a relaxing, appealing place for nightlife nirvana. This is where Rome’s ­morning coffee, aperitivo or an evening serious clubbers lose countless hours drink to a soundtrack of plinky jazz. In worshipping at the shrines of electro, line with Rome’s current love of artisanal nu-house, nu-funk and all sorts of other brews, it serves its own Porto Fluviale craft eclectica. beer (medium €5.50).

DOPPIOZEROO BAR GOA CLUB Map p326 (%06 5730 1961; www.doppiozeroo. Map p326 (%06 574 82 77; www.goaclub.com; Via com; Via Ostiense 68; h7am-2am Mon-Sat; Libetta 13; h11.30pm-4.30am Thu-Sat; mGar- mPiramide) This easygoing bar was once a batella) Goa is Rome’s serious super-club, bakery, hence the name (‘double zero’ is a with international names, ethnic-styling, type of flour). But today the sleek, modern a fashion-forward crowd, podium dancers interior attracts hungry, trendy Romans and heavies on the door. like bees to honey, especially for the cheap lunches (primo/secondo €4.50/6.50) and NEO CLUB CLUB h famously lavish, dinnertastic aperitivo be- Map p326 (Via degli Argonauti 18; 11pm-4am Fri Southern R tween 6pm and 9pm. & Sat; mGarbatella) This small, dark two-­level club has an underground feel and is one of the funkiest choices in the zone, featuring­ ome ROMAN UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION (EUR)

D rinking One of the few planned developments in Rome’s history, EUR was built for an interna- tional exhibition in 1942. Although war intervened and the exhibition never took place, the name stuck – Esposizione Universale di Roma (Roman Universal Exhibition) or EUR. There are a few museums but the area’s interest lies in its spectacular rationalist architecture. It’s unique, if not on a particularly human scale, and the style is beauti- &N fully expressed in a number of distinctive palazzi, including the iconic Palazzo della ightlife Civiltà del Lavoro (Palace of the Workers; Quadrato della Concordia; mEUR Magliana), dubbed the Square Colosseum. The Palace of the Workers is EUR’s architectural icon, a rationalist masterpiece clad in gleaming white travertine. Designed by Giovanni Guerrini, Ernesto Bruno La Padula and Mario Romano, and built between 1938 and 1943, it consists of six rows of nine arches, rising to a height of 50m. It’s recently be- come Fendi’s headquarters. Elsewhere, other monumentalist architecture includes the Chiesa Santi Pietro e Paolo (Piazzale Santi Pietro e Paolo), the Palazzetto dello Sport (Palalottomatica) (Piazzale dello Sport) and the wonderful Palazzo dei Congressi (Piazza JF Kennedy). Massimiliano Fuksas’ cutting-edge Nuvola (‘cloud’) congress centre is the most recent dramatic architectural addition to the area, but work has stalled, due to lack of funding. The Museo della Civiltà Romana (%06 06 08; Piazza G Agnelli 10; hclosed for renovations; mEUR Fermi) covers Roman history, and was founded by Mussolini in 1937 to glorify imperial Rome. Children will enjoy the models and weapons. It adjoins the Museo Astronomico & Planetario (%06 06 08; www.planetarioroma.it; hclosed for renovation), show in Italian. Both were being renovated at the time of research, but were expected to reopen in 2016. Also in EUR is Rome’s largest public swimming pool, Piscina delle Rose (%06 5422 0333; www.piscinadellerose.it; Viale America 20; before/after 1pm €16/14, 3hr Mon-Fri €10, under 10yr free; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun mid-May–Sep; mEUR Palas- port). It gets crowded, so arrive early to grab a deck chair. 204

CINECITTÀ, CINEMA CITY

Cinecittà (%06 88816182; cinecittastudios.it; Via Tuscolana 1055; adult/child €20/10 set tours (Italian/English) & exhibitions; h9.30am-7pm Wed-Mon; mCinecittà), Italy’s foremost film studio, was founded in 1937 by Mussolini, and used for many iconic Italian and international films. It’s now possible to take a tour of the studios, where you get to visit several impressive sets, including 1500s Florence and ancient Rome, and there are interesting exhibitions, one dedicated to the work of Fellini, and another explor- ing the history of the studios, with some hands-on exhibits, and, most excitingly, an American submarine set. Originally intended by Mussolini to turn out propaganda pictures, the studios were used during WWII variously as a refugee camp and hospital, but postwar they went from strength to strength. In the 1950s many major Hollywood films were made here, including Cleopatra, and Rome became nicknamed Hollywood on the Tiber. This was also to become Fellini’s stomping ground – he even had a bedroom here – and La Dolce Vita was filmed in Theatre 5, within which the director re-created Via Veneto. Later, spaghetti westerns dominated the schedule, as directors such as Sergio Leone directed films such as A Fistful of Dollars and The Good, the Bad & the Ugly. Recent blockbusters to have been made here include Ben Hur and Zoolander 2.

Southern R a dancetastic mish-mash of breakbeat, torium, rehearsal rooms, a cafe and a res- ­techno and old-skool house. taurant. Some events are free.

LA SAPONERIA CLUB CAFFÈ LETTERARIO LIVE MUSIC Map p326 (%06 574 69 99; Via degli Argonauti Map p326 (%06 5730 2842, 340 3067460; 20; h11pm-4.30am Tue-Sun Oct-May; mGarba- www.caffeletterarioroma.it; Via Ostiense 83, 95; ome tella) Formerly a soap factory, nowadays La h10am-2am Tue-Fri, 4pm-2am Sat & Sun; gVia Saponeria is a cool space that’s all exposed Ostiense) Caffè Letterario is an intellectual

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ntertainment brick and white walls and brain-twisting hang-out housed in the converted, post- light shows. It lathers up the punters with industrial space of a former garage. It com- guest DJs spinning everything from nu- bines designer looks, a bookshop, a ­gallery, house to nu-funk, minimal techno, dance, performance space and a lounge bar. There hip-hop and 1950s retro. are regular gigs from 10pm to midnight, ranging from soul and jazz to Indian dance. RASHOMON CLUB Map p326 (www.rashomonclub.com; Via degli Ar- XS LIVE LIVE MUSIC gonauti 16; h11pm-4am Fri & Sat Oct-May; mGar- Map p326 (%06 5730 5102; www.xsliveroma. batella) Rashomon is sweaty, not posey, and com; Via Libetta 13; h11.30pm-4am Thu-Sun where to head when you want to dance your Sep-May; mGarbatella) A rocking live music ass off. Shake it to a music-lovers’ feast of and club venue, hosting regular gigs. Big the sound of the underground, especially names playing here in recent times range house, techno and electronica. from Peter Doherty to Jefferson Starship, and club nights range from Cool Britannia– themed trips to ’80s odysseys.

3 ENTERTAINMENT TEATRO INDIA THEATRE LA CASA DEL JAZZ JAZZ Map p326 (%06 8400 0311; www.teatrodiroma. Map p326 (%06 70 47 31; www.casajazz.it; Viale net; Lungotevere dei Papareschi; tickets €10-30; di Porta Ardeatina 55; admission varies; hgigs gVia Enrico Fermi) Inaugurated in 1999 in around 8-9pm; mPiramide) In the middle of the post-industrial landscape of Rome’s a 2500-sq-m park in the southern suburbs, southern suburbs, the India is the younger the Casa del Jazz is housed in a three-storey sister of Teatro Argentina. It’s a stark mod- 1920s villa that once belonged to a Mafia ern space in a converted industrial build- boss. When he was caught, the Comune di ing, a fitting setting for its cutting-edge Roma (Rome Council) converted it into a program, with a calendar of international jazz-fuelled complex, with a 150-seat audi- and Italian works. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 214

Sleeping

From opulent five-star palaces to chic boutique hotels, family-run pensions, B&Bs, hostels and convents, Rome has accommodation to please everyone. But while there’s plenty of choice, rates are universally high and you’ll need to book early to get the best deal.

Pensions & Hotels Rental Accommodation The bulk of Rome’s accommodation consists For longer stays, renting an apartment will of pensioni (pensions) and alberghi (hotels). generally work out cheaper than an extended A pensione is a small, family-run hotel, hotel sojourn. Bank on about €900 per month often in a converted apartment. Rooms are for a studio apartment or one-bedroom flat. usually fairly simple, though most come with For longer stays, you’ll probably have to pay a private bathroom. bills plus a building maintenance charge. Hotels are rated from one to five stars. Most hotels in Rome’s historic centre tend to Seasons & Rates be three-star and up. As a rule, a three-star Rome doesn’t have a low season as such but room will come with a hairdryer, a minibar rates are at their lowest from November to (or fridge), a safe, air-con and wi-fi. Some may March (excluding Christmas and New Year) also have satellite TV. Note that Roman ho- and from mid-July through August. Expect tel rooms tend to be small, especially in the to pay top whack in spring (April to June) centro­ storico and Trastevere, where hotels and autumn (September and October) and are often housed in centuries-old palazzi. over the main holiday periods (Christmas, New Year and Easter). Most midrange and B&Bs & Guesthouses top-end hotels accept credit cards. It’s always Alongside traditional B&Bs, Rome has many best to check in advance. boutique-style guesthouses offering chic ac- commodation at midrange to top-end prices. Accommodation Websites Breakfast in a Roman B&B usually con- ¨Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/ sists of bread rolls, croissants, yoghurt, ham rome/hotels) Consult a list of author-reviewed and cheese. accommodation options and book online. ¨060608 (www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/ Hostels dormire) Official Comune di Roma site with Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from back- accommodation lists. Details are not always packers to budget-minded families. Many offer up to date. hotel-style rooms alongside traditional dorms. ¨Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome Some hostels don’t accept reservations for (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term dorm beds, so it’s first come, first served. apartment rentals. ¨ (www.bbitalia.it) Religious Institutions Bed & Breakfast Italia Rome’s longest-established B&B network. Many of Rome’s religious institutions offer ¨ (www.romeasyoufeel.com) cheap(ish) rooms. These often impose strict Rome As You Feel curfews and are fairly short on frills. Book Apartment rentals, from cheap studio flats well ahead. to luxury apartments. 215 Lonely Planet’s Best for Location NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Albergo Abruzzi (p217) Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) Wake up to the Pantheon. Price Ranges Arty retreat in elegant sur- Casa di Santa Brigida These price ranges roundings. (p217) A convent overlooking are for a high-season

Piazza Farnese. Sleeping Babuino 181 (p219) Chic ­double room with private luxury on top shopping street. ­bathroom: Arco del Lauro (p221) Best for € under €110 Minimalist comfort in Trastevere Romance €110 to €200  €€

 .B&B Hotel Sant’Anselmo (p222) €€€ over €200 Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Escape to this beautiful Liberty- Stately style in a city-centre Breakfast is included style villa. mansion. ­unless otherwise stated. Hotel Locarno (p219) Star in your own romance at this Reservations Best by Budget art-deco gem. ¨¨Always try to book ahead, especially for the € major religious festivals. Arco del Lauro (p221) A Best B&Bs ¨¨Ask for a camera cool bolthole in happening ­matrimoniale for a room Trastevere. Maria-Rosa Guesthouse (p221) Your Trastevere home with a double bed; a Althea Inn (p222) Designer from home. camera doppia has twin comfort at budget prices. beds. La Piccola Maison (p218) Beehive (p220) Classy hostel Quiet comfort near Piazza Checking In & Out near Termini. Barberini. ¨¨When you check in you’ll need to present €€ Best Value for your passport or ID card. ¨ Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) A Money ¨Checkout is usually be- delightful villa hotel. tween 10am and noon. In Althea Inn (p222) A hidden hostels it’s around 9am. Residenza Maritti (p216) gem near Testaccio. Welcoming hideaway near the ¨¨Some guesthouses and forums. Le Stanze di Orazio (p219) B&Bs require you to ar- Get your money’s worth at this range a time to check in. Daphne Inn (p218) Boutique Vatican B&B. hotel with superlative service. La Controra (p218) Quality hostel in upscale area. €€€ Babuino 181 (p219) Bask in understated luxury Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Live like country-house nobility 216 Where to Stay

Neighbourhood For Against Ancient Rome Close to major sights such as Colosseum, Roman Not cheap and has few Forum and Capitoline Museums; quiet at night. ­budget options; restaurants are touristy. Sleeping Centro Storico Atmospheric area with everything on your Most expensive part of town; doorstep – Pantheon, Piazza Navona, restau- few budget options; can be rants, bars, shops. noisy.

ANCIENT ROME Tridente, Trevi Good for Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Upmarket area with prices to  & the Quirinale designer shopping; excellent midrange to top- match; subdued after dark. end options; good transport links. Monti, Esquilino Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Some dodgy streets in & San Lorenzo Termini; top eating options in Monti and good ­Termini area, which is not nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links. Rome’s most characterful. San Giovanni Authentic atmosphere with good eating and Few options available; not & Testaccio drinking options; Aventino, a quiet, romantic many big sights. area; Testaccio, a top food and nightlife district. Trastevere & Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with Very noisy, particularly on Gianicolo hundreds of bars, cafes, and restaurants; some summer nights; expensive. interesting sights. Vatican City, Near St Peter’s Basilica and Vatican Museums; Expensive near St Peter’s; Borgo & Prati decent range of accommodation; some excel- not much nightlife; sells out lent shops and restaurants; on the metro. quickly for religious holidays. Villa Borghese Largely residential area good for the Auditorium Out of the centre; few budget & Northern and some top museums; generally quiet after choices. Rome dark.

leather bedsteads, hanging lamps, and the 4 Ancient Rome ­occasional art tome.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL oRESIDENZA MARITTI GUESTHOUSE €€ FORTY SEVEN €€€ Map p300 (%06 678 82 33; www.residenzamar- Map p300 (%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel. itti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti 17; s €50-120, d €80-170, com; Via Petroselli 47; r €170-300; aW; gVia tr €100-190; aW; mCavour) Boasting stun- Petroselli) Near the Bocca della Verità, the ning views over the forums, this gem has plain grey facade of this classy four-star rooms spread over several floors. Some are gives onto a bright modern interior, full of bright and modern, others are more cosy sunshine and sharply designed guest rooms. in feel, with antiques and family furniture. There’s also a rooftop restaurant and, in the There’s no breakfast but you can use a fully basement, a gym and Turkish bath. equipped kitchen. HOTEL FORUM HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ % NERVA BOUTIQUE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Map p300 ( 06 679 24 46; www.hotelforum. Map p300 (%06 678 18 35; www.hotelnerva. com; Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30; r €180-350; aW; com; Via Tor de’ Conti 3; s €70-180, d €90-300; mCavour) The stately Forum offers formal aW; mCavour) Fresh from a recent make­ elegance and inspiring views. From the over, this friendly hotel is tucked away be- rooftop restaurant you can survey a sea of hind the Imperial Forums. Its snug rooms ruins, while inside it’s all antiques, wood- display a contemporary look in shades panelling and dangling chandeliers. Rooms of cream, grey and black, with padded are small and classically attired. Parking is available for €40 per day. 217 aW; gCorso del Rinascimento) This small 4 Centro Storico hotel offers a range of handsome, modern rooms in a 15th-century palazzo near Pi- HOTEL PENSIONE BARRETT PENSION € azza Navona. They come in various shapes Map p304 (%06 686 84 81; www.pensionebar- and looks, but the most striking feature a rett.com; Largo di Torre Argentina 47; s €115, d showy silver-and-grey design. Breakfast aW g

€125, tr €150; ; Largo di Torre Argentina) costs €10 extra. Sleeping This charming pension boasts a conveni- ent central location and an exuberant decor HOTEL TEATRO DI POMPEO HOTEL €€ that marries leafy pot plants with statues, Map p304 (%06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatro­ busts and vibrant stucco. Rooms are cosy dipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €90-165, d

€110-220; aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) and come with thoughtful extras like foot  CENTRO STORICO spas and fully stocked fridges. Tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori, this charming hotel sits atop the 1st-century-BC ALBERGO DEL SOLE HOTEL € Theatre of Pompey – the basement break- Map p304 (%06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione. fast room is actually in the theatre’s ruins. it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr Rooms are attractive with classic wooden €120-180; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) furniture, terracotta floor tiles, and, in This simple, no-frills place is supposedly some, sloping wood-beamed ceilings. the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s nothing special about the function- DIMORA DEGLI DEI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ al rooms, but each floor has its own out- Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimo- door terrace, and the location near Campo radeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €80-200; de’ Fiori is excellent. No breakfast. aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this ALBERGO CESÀRI HISTORIC HOTEL €€ elegant bolthole near the Pantheon. On Map p304 (%06 674 97 01; www.albergocesari.it; the 1st floor of a centuries-old palazzo, it Via di Pietra 89/A; s €70-150, d €110-250; aW; has six high-ceilinged tastefully furnished gVia del Corso) This friendly three-star has rooms. Breakfast (€10) is optional. been welcoming guests since 1787 and both Stendhal and Mazzini are said to have slept CASA DI SANTA here. Modern visitors can expect tradition- BRIGIDA RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €€ al rooms, a stunning rooftop terrace, and a Map p304 (%06 6889 2596; www.brigidine.org; wonderful central location. Piazza Farnese 96, entrance Via di Monserrato 54; s/d €120/200; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) HOTEL DUE TORRI HOTEL €€ Named after the Swedish St Brigid who died Map p304 (%06 6880 6956; www.hotelduetor- here in 1373, this tranquil convent enjoys a riroma.com; Vicolo del Leonetto 23; s €70-140, d superb location overlooking Piazza Farnese. €110-220, tr €140-240; aW; gVia di Monte Bri- Rooms are simple, clean and decidedly low- anzo) If the rooms at this refined hotel could tech – entertainment here is limited to a pi- talk, they’d have some stories to tell. The ano in the communal room, a small library Due Torri might now be a classically attired and views from the roof terrace. three-star with period furniture and 26 cosy rooms, but in centuries past it housed oHOTEL CAMPO a cardinals’ residence and a brothel. DE’ FIORI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefio- ARGENTINA RESIDENZA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ ri.com; Via del Biscione 6; r €90-400, apt €80-350; Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.argentinares- aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rak- idenza.com; Via di Torre Argentina 47; r €120-200; ish four-star has got the lot – baroque bou- aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Escape the doir decor, an enviable location, professional hustle and relax in the comfort of this quiet staff and a fabulous panoramic roof terrace. boutique hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina. The interior feels delightfully decadent with Its six decently sized rooms sport a low-key its boldly coloured walls, low wooden ceil- contemporary look with design touches ings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac. and elegant furnishings. Also available are 13 apartments.

HOTEL NAVONA HOTEL €€ ALBERGO ABRUZZI HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona. Map p304 (%06 679 20 21; www.hotelabruzzi.it; com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; Piazza della Rotonda 69; d €120-340, tr €150-400, 218 q €180-450; aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) As DAPHNE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ locations go, the Abruzzi’s tops the charts, Map p308 (%06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome. bang opposite the Pantheon. Its recently com; Via di San Basilio 55; s €115-180, d €130-240, refurbished rooms sport a smart look with ste €190-290, without bathroom s €70-130, d blown-up photos printed on white walls and €90-160; aW; mBarberini) Run by an Amer- dark wood flooring. They are small, though, ican-Italian couple, the Daphne has helpful

Sleeping and late-night noise might be a problem. English-speaking staff and chic, comforta- ble rooms. They come in various shapes and sizes, but the overall look is smart contem- 4 Tridente, Trevi porary. There’s a second branch, Daphne Trevi, at Via degli Avignonesi 20.

TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE & the Quirinale

oLA CONTRORA HOSTEL € HOTEL SUISSE PENSION €€ (%06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d Map p308 (%06 678 36 49; www.hotelsuisse- €80-110; aiW; mBarberini, mRepubblica) rome.com; Via Gregoriana 54; s €80-100, d €135- Quality budget accommodation is thin on 170, tr €180-200; iW; mSpagna, mBarberini) the ground in the upmarket area north of An air of old-school elegance pervades at Piazza Repubblica, but this great little hos- this delightful family-run pension. Attrac- tel is a top choice. It has a friendly laid-back tive antique furniture and creaking, pol- vibe, cool staff, double rooms and bright, ished parquet floors set the tone for the 12 airy mixed dorms (for three and four peo- tasteful, modestly decorated rooms. ple), with parquet floors, air-con and pri- vate bathrooms. GREGORIANA HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 679 42 69; www.hotelgregoriana. a HOTEL PANDA PENSION € it; Via Gregoriana 18; s €120-168,d €150-288; ; Map p308 (%06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via mSpagna) This low-key, polished art-deco della Croce 35; s €65-90, d €85-130, tr €120-150, q hotel is fantastically set behind the Span- €160-190; aW; mSpagna) Near the Spanish ish Steps. Beds have beautiful, circular Steps, in an area where a bargain is a Bul- maple-wood headboards, snow-white linen gari watch bought at the sales, the Panda and lots of gleaming rosewood. Staff are flies the flag for budget accommodation. It’s ­friendly and unpretentious. a friendly place with high-ceilinged rooms and simple, tasteful decor. Air-con is free in MARGUTTA GLAMOUR summer, but €6 in other periods. STUDIOS APARTMENT €€ Map p308 (%333 7982702; www.marguttaglam- LA PICCOLA MAISON B&B €€ ourstudios.com; Via Margutta 54-55; apt €150- Map p308 (%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison. 180; mSpagna) Four charming apartments com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-270; on one of Rome’s prettiest streets, which aW; mBarberini) The excellent Piccola Mai- has a village feel despite being in the thick son is housed in a 19th-century building in of Tridente. All are decorated with flair, a great location close to Piazza Barberini, and the two larger apartments, in former and has pleasingly plain, neutrally decorated artists’ studios, are spectacular, with dou- rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a great deal. ble height ceilings; the smaller two are charming, with pretty outlooks.

HOTEL TAX HOTEL MOZART HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 3600 1915; www.hotelmozart. Everyone overnighting in Rome has to com; Via dei Greci 23b; r €140-200; aiW; pay a room-occupancy tax on top of mSpagna) The Mozart has classic, immacu- their regular bill. late rooms, decorated in dove greys, egg- ¨¨€3 per person per night in one- and shell blues, golden yellows and rosy pinks, two-star hotels with comfortable beds, gleaming linen and ¨¨€3.50 in B&Bs and room rentals polished wooden furniture; deluxe rooms ¨¨€4/6/7 in three-/four-/five-star have jacuzzis and small terraces. hotels. It also administers the Vivaldi Luxury Suites and several apartments nearby. Look The tax is applicable for a maximum out for special offers on the website, where of 10 consecutive nights. Prices in rooms can go for as little as €80. reviews do not include the tax. 219 HOTEL BAROCCO HOTEL €€ CROSSING CONDOTTI GUESTHOUSE €€€ Map p308 (%06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco. Map p308 (%06 6992 0633; www.crossingcon- com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €160-290; aiW; dotti.com; Via Mario de’ Fiori 28; r €240-470; mBarberini) Very central, this well-run, wel- aW; mSpagna) This is one of Rome’s breed coming 41-room hotel overlooking Piazza of upmarket guesthouses, where all the Barberini (the pricier rooms have views) has fittings, linen and comforts are top of the

a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil paint- range, and the pretty, though not large, Sleeping ings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes rooms have lots of character and antique and fabric-covered walls. Breakfast is ample furnishings. There’s also a well-stocked and served in a wood-panelled room. kitchen with drinks and a Nespresso ma- chine. The more expensive rooms, recently HOTEL LOCARNO HOTEL €€ added, have walk-in showers and a kitchen- VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map p308 (%06 361 08 41; www.hotellocarno. ette, and the top choice has a Turkish bath. com; Via della Penna 22; s €90-260, d €120-270; aiW; mFlaminio) With its ivy-clad exte- HOTEL DE RUSSIE HOTEL €€€ rior, stained-glass doors and rattling cage- Map p308 (%06 32 88 81; www.hotelderussie.it; lift, the Locarno is an art-deco classic – the Via del Babuino 9; d €550-850; ai; mFlaminio) kind of place Hercule Poirot might stay if he The historic de Russie is almost on Piazza were in town. Many rooms have silk wall- del Popolo, and has exquisite terraced gar- paper and period furniture, and are occa- dens. The decor is softly luxurious in many sionally in need of TLC, but full of charm. shades of grey, and the rooms offer state- There’s a roof garden, a restaurant and an of-the-art entertainment systems, massive atmospheric bar. mosaic-tiled bathrooms and all the luxu- ries. There’s a lovely courtyard bar. HOTEL MODIGLIANI HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigli- ani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-160, d 4 Vatican City, Borgo €100-270; aW; mBarberini) Run by an artis- tic couple, the Modigliani is all about atten- & Prati tion to detail and service. The 23 dove-grey HOTEL SAN PIETRINO HOTEL € rooms are spacious and light, and the best Map p312 (%06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino. ones have views and balconies, either out- it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112; aiW; side or over the quiet courtyard garden. mOttaviano–San-Pietro) Within easy walk- ing distance of St Peter’s, family-run San oBABUINO 181 BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its Map p308 (%06 3229 5295; www.romeluxu- 11 cosy rooms are characterful and prettily rysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r decorated with terracotta-tiled floors and €240-715; aW; mFlaminio) A beautifully the occasional statue. No breakfast. renovated old palazzo, Babuino offers dis- creet luxury, with great attention to detail, COLORS HOTEL HOTEL € a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic rooms Map p312 (%06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; with touches such as a Nespresso machine Via Boezio 31; s €30-90, d €45-122; aW; gVia and fluffy bathrobes. A new annexe across Cola di Rienzo) Popular with young travellers, the street has added more suites and rooms this welcoming hotel impresses with its that continue the theme of understated el- fresh, artful design and vibrantly coloured egance. The same company runs the simi- rooms. These come in various shapes and larly impressive Margutta 54 (Map p308; sizes, including some cheaper ones with %06 322 95 295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/ shared bathrooms and, from June to Au- margutta/default-en.html; Via Margutta 54; d gust, dorms for guests under 38. Breakfast from €250; mSpagna) and Mario de’ Fiori 37. on request costs €6.50.

CASA FABBRINI B&B €€€ LE STANZE DI ORAZIO B&B €€ Map p308 (%06 324 3706; www.casafabbrini. Map p312 (%06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio. it; Vicolo delle Orsoline 13; r €280; mSpagna) A com; Via Orazio 3; r €85-135; aiW; mLepanto) beautifully styled boutique B&B that could This small boutique B&B is excellent value have sprung from the pages of Elle Deco- for money. It has five bright, playfully ration, with antique doors as bedheads, ­decorated rooms – think shimmering rain- coloured-glass lamps and painted furniture. bow wallpaper, lilac accents, and designer bathrooms – and a small breakfast area. 220 FABIO MASSIMO name only, this pearl offers small, hotel- DESIGN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ standard rooms, each with its own ensuite Map p312 (%06 321 30 44; www.hotelfabiomas- bathroom, and decorated in tasteful low- simo.com; Viale Giulio Cesare 71; r €89-229; aW; key style – beamed ceilings, wooden floors, mOttaviano-San Pietro) Walkable from Ottavi- French windows, black-and-white framed ano metro station, this sleek design hotel is photos. There’s also an apartment, with

Sleeping convenient as well as stylish. From the 4th- kitchen, that sleeps up to four. No lift and floor reception and breakfast area, corri- no breakfast. dors lead off to nine rooms, each furnished in contemporary reds and slate greys, with WELROME HOTEL HOTEL € flower motifs and hanging lamps. Map p320 (%06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it;

;MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; aW  HOTEL BRAMANTE HISTORIC HOTEL €€ mTermini) A small, spotless hotel in a quiet Map p312 (%06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante. backstreet not far from Termini. Owners com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d Mary and Carlo take great pride in looking €140-240, tr €175-260, q €190-300; aW; gBor- after their guests and will enthusiastically go Sant’Angelo) Nestled under the Vatican­ advise you on where to eat, what to do and walls, the Bramante exudes country- where to avoid. Their seven simply deco- house charm with its cosy internal court- rated rooms are clean and comfortable. No yard, wood-beamed ceilings and antique breakfast but kettles and fridges are pro- ­furniture. It’s housed in the 16th-century vided, and there are plenty of nearby bars building where architect Domenico Fon- for a cornetto (croissant) and coffee. tana once lived. PAPA GERMANO HOTEL € oVILLA LAETITIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p320 (%06 48 69 19; www.hotelpapa­ (%06 322 67 76; www.villalaetitia.com; Lungote- germano.it; Via Calatafimi 14a; d €50-110, with- vere delle Armi 22; r €200-280, ste €500; aW; out bathroom dm €15-35, s €30-65, d €40-85; gLungotevere delle Armi) Villa Laetitia is a aiW; mTermini) Easygoing and popular, stunning boutique hotel in a riverside art- Papa Germano is a budget stalwart. There nouveau villa. Its 20 rooms, each individu- are various sleeping options, ranging from ally designed by Anna Venturini Fendi of four-person dorms to private rooms with or the famous fashion house, marry modern without bathrooms. It has a family-run feel, design touches with vintage pieces and the decor is plain and fairly smart, and all rare finds, such as an original Picasso in rooms are scrupulously clean. the Garden Room. ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL HOSTEL € Map p320 (%06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessan- 4 dro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-110, Monti, Esquilino tr €85-120; aiW; mCastro Pretorio) This & San Lorenzo well-kept favourite offers spick-and-span, oBEEHIVE HOSTEL € terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as Map p320 (%06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive. well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-35, s €50-80, d all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has €90-100, without bathroom s €60-70, d €70-80, tr its own bathroom with hairdryer. There’s a €95-105; aW; mTermini) S More boutique basement bar, and it runs local tours. chic than backpacker dive, the Beehive HOTEL ARTORIUS HOTEL €€ is Rome’s best hostel; book well ahead. Map p320 (%06 482 11 96; www.hotelartori- There’s a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm usrome.com; Via del Boschetto 13; d €86-140; or six private double rooms, some with air- aiW; mCavour) con. Original artworks and funky modular The art-deco lobby looks furniture add colour, and there’s a cafe. promising, and the rest delivers too in this Some off-site rooms, sharing communal 10-room Monti hotel with a family-run feel. bathrooms and kitchen, are another bar- Rooms are simple and plain – not large, but gain (single €40 to €50, double €60 to €80). perfectly comfortable – and one (room 109) has a terrace. Book well ahead. BLUE HOSTEL HOSTEL € DUCA D’ALBA HOTEL €€ Map p320 (%340 925 85 03; www.bluehostel.it; Map p320 (%06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba. Via Carlo Alberto 13, 3rd fl; d €60-150, apt €100- com; Via Leonina 14; r €115-380; aW; mCavour) 180; aW; mVittorio Emanuele) A hostel in 221 This appealing four-star hotel in the Monti aged 12 or younger are welcome) is housed district has small but charming rooms: in a lovely 16th-century convent, close to most have fabric-covered or handpainted the river. It is run by the Casa Internazi- walls, wood-beamed ceilings and big flat- onale delle Donne (International ­Women’s screen TVs. House) and offers safe, well-priced ­accommodation in Trastevere. Reception RESIDENZA CELLINI GUESTHOUSE €€

is open from 7am to 3am. The 13 simple Sleeping Map p320 (%06 4782 5204; www.residenza- rooms sleep two, four, five or eight, and cellini.it; Via Modena 5; s €100-135, d €115-150; some have views onto the internal ­garden. aiW; mRepubblica) With grown-up fur- It’s wheelchair accessible.­ nishings featuring potted palms, polished wood, pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and oARCO DEL LAURO B&B €€ & TRASTEVERE GIANICOLO a hint of chintz, this charming, family-run Map p316 (%346 2443212, 9am-2pm 06 9784 place on a quiet road parallel to Via Nazion- 0350; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei ale offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with 27; s €72-132, d €132-145; aW; gViale di Traste- satellite TV and jacuzzi or hydro-massage vere, jViale di Trastevere) This fab six-room shower. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded B&B occupies a centuries-old palazzo on a terrace for summer breakfasts. narrow cobbled street. Its gleaming white rooms combine rustic charm with a mod- oVILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI HOTEL €€€ ern look and comfortable beds. The owners Map p320 (%06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; are welcoming and always ready to help. Via Piacenza 4; r €450-620; aiW; mSpagna) With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion in RELAIS LE CLARISSE HOTEL €€ central Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli was Map p316 (%06 5833 4437; www.leclarisse.com; built by Gabriella Rasponi, widow of Italian Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20; r €80-230; aW; senator Count Venceslao Spalletti Triveli gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Set and the niece of Carolina Bonaparte (Na- hacienda-style around a pretty internal poleon’s sister). It’s a soujourn in a stately courtyard with an olive tree and a smat- home: rooms are soberly and elegantly tering of cast-iron tables, this is a delight- decorated, and the sitting rooms are hung ful oasis in Trastevere’s bustling core. In with 16th-century tapestries or lined with contrast to the urban mayhem outside, the antique books. There’s a basement spa. hotel is a picture of farmhouse charm with rooms, each named after a plant, decorated in rustic style with wrought-iron bedsteads 4 Trastevere & Gianicolo and wood-beamed ceilings.

MARIA-ROSA GUESTHOUSE B&B € RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%338 7700067; www.maria-rosa. Map p316 (%06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeito- it; Via dei Vascellari 55; s €45-65, d €65-80, tr lomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €155-205; €80-120; iW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di aW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- Trastevere) This is a delightful B&B on the vere) This gorgeous place is decorated with 3rd floor of a Trastevere townhouse. It’s a ­polished antiques and rich contrasting simple affair with two guestrooms sharing chintzes that make the interiors feel like a a single bathroom and a small living room, country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, but the homey decor, pot plants and books and the owners are friendly and helpful. create a lovely, warm atmosphere. The own- er, Sylvie, also has a further three rooms BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE €€ on the floor above at La Casa di Kaia (Map Map p316 (%06 5833 0733; www.buonanottegar- p316; %338 7700067; www.kaia-trastevere.it; ibaldi.com; Via Garibaldi 83; r €210-280, closed 7 Via dei Vascellari 55; with shared bathroom s €45- Jan‒7 Mar; aiW; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza 55, d €65-75; W; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Sonnino) With only three rooms, this is a ha- Trastevere). There’s no lift. ven: an upmarket B&B in a divinely pretty inner-city villa, set around a courtyard. The LA FORESTERIA ORSA MAGGIORE HOSTEL € rooms are beautifully decorated and there Map p316 (%06 689 37 53; www.casainternazi- are works of art and sculpture all over the onaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di place – this is artist Luisa Longo’s house. Sales 1a; dm €26, s/d €75/110, without bathroom Pick of the rooms is Blue, upstairs, which €52/72; iW; gPiazza Trilussa) This lesbian-­ opens onto a greenery-shaded terrace. friendly, women-only guesthouse (boys 222 HOTEL SANTA MARIA HOTEL €€ HOTEL LANCELOT HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria. Map p314 (%06 7045 0615; www.lancelothotel. info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €90-225, d €100-290, tr com; Via Capo d’Africa 47; s €100-128, d €130- €130-330 ; aiW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di 196; aW; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano) A Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach great location near the Colosseum, striking and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surround- views, and helpful English-speaking staff ing a spacious modern cloister (a former

Sleeping – the family-run Lancelot scores across convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms the board. The lobby and communal areas are cool and comfortable, decorated in sunny gleam with marble and crystal while the colours, and with terracotta floors. There are spacious rooms exhibit a more classic style. some larger family rooms. The staff is pro-

SAN GIOVANNI & TESTACCIO GIOVANNI SAN fessional, and there’s access for people with HOTEL ROMANCE HOTEL €€ a disability. Nearby Residenza Santa Maria Map p314 (%06 8929 5106; www.hotelromance. (Map p316; %06 5833 5103; www.residenzasan- it; Via Marco Aurelio 37a; s €70-140, d €70-200; tamaria.com; Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20; s €90- aW; mColosseo) A warm welcome awaits 190, d €100-230; iW) is its smaller sister. at this family-run three-star near the Colos- seum. It has quiet, comfy rooms decorated VILLA DELLA FONTE B&B €€ in traditional Roman style and views over a Map p316 (%06 580 37 97; www.villafonte.com; lush garden next door. Via della Fonte dell’Olio 8; r €80-230; aW; gViale j di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) A terracotta- oHOTEL SANT’ANSELMO HOTEL €€€ hued, ivy-shrouded gem, Villa della Fonte is Map p314 (%06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels. a romantic choice, occupying a 17th-century com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €90-265, d €99- building in a street off Piazza Santa Maria 290; aW; gVia Marmorata) A ravishing ro-

in Trastevere. It has five rooms, all of which mantic hideaway in the elegant Aventino  are simply decorated but have pretty out- district. Its rooms are not the biggest but looks, good bathrooms and comfortable they are stylish, juxtaposing four-poster beds. The sunny garden terrace is a plus. beds, Liberty-style furniture and marble bathrooms with modern touches. oDONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI HOTEL €€€ Map p316 (%06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamilla- savelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €165-250; aiW; 4 gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s sel- Villa Borghese & dom you have such an exquisite opportunity Northern Rome as to stay in a converted convent designed oPALM GALLERY HOTEL HOTEL €€ by Borromini. It’s been beautifully updated; Map p324 (%06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryho- muted colours complement the serene con- tel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €100-210; cave and convex curves of the architecture, aW; gVia Nomentana, gViale Regina Margher- and service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 ita) Housed in an early-20th-century villa, rooms overlook the cloister garden or have this gorgeous hotel sports an eclectic look views of Rome, and are decorated with an- that effortlessly blends African and Middle tiques – it’s worth forking out that bit extra. Eastern art with original art-deco furni- ture, exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles. Rooms are individually decorated, 4 San Giovanni with the best offering views over the wiste- & Testaccio ria and thick greenery in the surrounding streets. oALTHEA INN B&B € Map p314 (%339 4353717, 06 9893 2666; www. altheainn.com; Via dei Conciatori 9; d €70-125; mPiramide) In a workaday apartment block, 4 Southern Rome this friendly B&B offers superb value for HOTEL ABITART HOTEL €€ money and easy access to Testaccio’s bars, Map p326 (%06 454 31 91; www.abitarthotel. clubs and restaurants. Its spacious, light- com; Via Matteucci 12; d €130-150; mPiramide, filled rooms sport a modish look with white dOstiense) Located in the gritty, trendy Os- walls and tasteful modern furniture. Each tiense area, the Abitart is decorated with also has a small terrace. a pop-arty feel, and is close to some good restaurants. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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