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Southern Rome PDF Rome Southern Rome (PDF Chapter) Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 21 Page Range 193–204, 214–222 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Useful Links • Neighbourhood Top Five Want more guides? Head to our shop • Local Life • Getting There & Trouble with your PDF? Away Trouble shoot here • Sights Need more help? • Eating Head to our FAQs • Drinking & Nightlife Stay in touch • Entertainment Contact us here • Sleeping © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 193 Southern Rome VIA APPIA ANTICA | OSTIENSE | SAN PAOLO | GARBATELLA Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Walking or cycling 3 Checking out the col- 5 Feeling dwarfed by the along the Via Appia Antica ourful, edgy street art in majesty of Basilica de San (p103), tracing the route of Ostiense (p202). Paolo Fuori Le Mura (p200). a thousand ancient Roman 4 Wandering around the footsteps. ingenious location for the 2 Exploring Rome’s overflow from the Capitoline Christian burial catacombs, Museums: Centrale Mon- such as the Catacombe di temartini (p201). San Sebastiano (p196). 000000 110000001 110000001 110000001 110000001 Parco 000000 San 000000 Sebastiano ia Via 3# c Lat li ina Via i Pe C llegr V M in ia a o i tteu a V cc i A p p i a A n t i c APPIO- 4# a Circo LATINO e nvallazione Ostiense s T n OSTIENSE 1# i e b i e t r s R O V i v a i i e a r V A r a d in e V c a i t a u i n A L p i i a p di lo e d ia a ao l A al l V dra Vi P i i ssan n V a Ale t n M trozzi i a i S c l ac h Sa SAN l in g a ( e Via A PAOLO d dell e S p a e p i bo tte 5# GARBATELLA C ia Vi V m hi n 000 a Co lo es 000 nsta e W 000 nt Co a 000Giu in y 000 stinia o ro ) no Im fo pe to ra is to r 0000r C 0000e ia 2# 0000 V 00 0000 00 01km e# 00.5 miles For more detail of this area see Map p326 A 194 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Southern Rome On Sunday, the first section Southern Rome is a sprawling neighbourhood that of Appia Antica is suppos- comprises four distinct areas of interest to tourists: edly traffic free, but in re- Via Appia Antica, famous for its catacombs; hip, post- cent years this has not been industrial, street-art-covered Via Ostiense; picturesque enforced. The first section, Garbatella; and EUR, Mussolini’s futuristic building de- stretching 1km from Porta velopment. It’s all quite spread out, but public transport San Sebastiano, is not at connections are good. all pleasant to walk along, Heading southeast from Porta San Sebastiano, Via even on supposedly ‘traffic Appia Antica (the Appian Way) is one of the world’s free’ days. It’s best to take oldest roads and a much-prized Roman address. It’s a bus 118 to the Basilica of beautiful part of town, with crumbling ruins set amid San Sebastiano, close to pea-green fields and towering umbrella pines. the genuinely traffic-free To the west, Via Ostiense presents a very different pic- section. ture. Desolate-looking disused factories and warehouses surprisingly harbour restaurants, pubs, clubs and bars, and the huge Eataly, a restaurant and Italian foodstuffs complex. Planned redevelopments for the ex-Mercati 5 Best Places to Eat Generali as a ‘City of Youth’ – comprising leisure, cul- tural and office space and designed by Rem Koolhaas ¨ Trattoria Priscilla (p201) – have started but stalled. SOUTHERN SOUTHERN ¨ Qui Non se More Mai Ostiense also harbours a couple of gemlike sights: (p201) Centrale Montemartini, a disused power plant housing ¨ Il Giardino di Giulia e superb classical statuary, and Basilica di San Paolo fuori Fratelli (p201) le Mura, the world’s third-largest church. The area also ¨ Andreotti (p202) has some of Rome’s best street art, with entire buildings R OME ¨ Pizza Ostiense (p202) covered in rainbows of colour. Nearby, the character- filled Garbatella district merits exploration for its origi- For reviews, see p201.A nal architecture, while further south, EUR was built by Mussolini as a showcase for his Fascist regime, a fasci- nating, Orwellian quarter of wide boulevards and linear 6 Best Places buildings. to Drink ¨ Porto Fluviale (p203) ¨ Doppiozeroo (p203) Local Life ¨ Neo Club (p203) ¨Eating Pick up some delicious pastries at Andreotti ¨ Goa (p203) (p202) or sampling the virtuoso pizza at Pizza Ostiense (p202). For reviews, see p203.A ¨Clubbing Some of Rome’s coolest clubs are clustered around Via Ostiense. ¨Cycling Escape from the frenetic city centre along the 1 Best beautiful Appian Way (p103). Entertainment ¨ La Casa del Jazz (p204) ¨ Caffè Letterario (p204) Getting There & Away ¨ Goa (p203) ¨Metro Metro line B runs to Piramide, Garbatella, ¨ Piscina delle Rose (p203) Basilica San Paolo, EUR Palasport and EUR Fermi. For reviews, see p204.A ¨Bus There are bus connections to Porta San Sebastiano (118, 218 and 714), Via Ostiense (23 and 716) and Via Appia Antica (118). VIA APPIA ANTICA ALESSANDRO0770 / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / ALESSANDRO0770 Heading southeast from Porta San Sebastiano, the DON’T MISS… Appian Way (Appian Way) was known to the Romans as the regina viarum (queen of roads). Named after Appius ¨ The catacombs Claudius Caecus, who laid the first 90km section in 312 ¨ Cycling along the BC, it was extended in 190 BC to reach Brindisi, some Appia 540km away on the southern Adriatic coast. ¨ Villa dei Quintilli Via Appia Antica has long been one of Rome’s most ex- clusive addresses, a beautiful cobblestoned thoroughfare flanked by grassy fields, Roman structures and towering PRACTICALITIES Villa dei pine trees. Most splendid of the ancient houses was ¨ Map p326 Quintilli – so desirable that emperor Commodus murdered ¨ %06 513 53 16 its owners and took it for himself. The Appia Antica, peaceful today, resounds with histo- ¨ www.parcoappia- ry: it’s where Spartacus and 6000 of his slave rebels were antica.it crucified in 71 BC, and around it lie 300km of underground ¨ bike hire hr/day tunnels that were carved out of soft tufa rock, and used €3/15 as burial chambers by the early Christians. Corpses were ¨ hInformation wrapped in simple white sheets and usually placed in rec- Point 9.30am-1pm & tangular niches carved into the walls, which were then 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, closed with marble or terracotta slabs. You can’t visit all 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & 300km, but three major catacombs (San Callisto, San Sebas- Sun, to 5pm winter tiano and Santa Domitilla) are open for guided exploration. ¨ gVia Appia Antica If you’re planning on really doing the sights, think about buying the Appia Antica Card. Near the start of the road, the Appia Antica Regional Park Information Point is very informative. You can buy a map of the park here and hire bikes. To be sure of a bike, arrive early, as they run out quickly. Child-sized bikes aren’t available, but child seats (up to 20kg) are; book these in advance as there are not many available. The park runs tours on foot/by bike (€8/12) in English, Spanish and German, which have to be booked by email in advance. 196 BASILICA & CATACOMBE DI SAN SEBASTIANO The most famous of the catacombs, these contain DON’T MISS… frescoes, stucco work, epigraphs and several immaculately preserved mausoleums. The catacombs ¨ Graffiti to St Peter extend for more than 12km and are divided into three and St Paul levels: 3m, 9m and 12m deep. They once harboured ¨ Mausoleums more than 65,000 tombs. ¨ Basilica di San Sebastiano Basilica The 4th-century basilica (Via Appia Antica 136; h8am-1pm & PRACTICALITIES 2-5.30pm; gVia Appia Antica) that was built here by Emperor Constantine was mostly destroyed by Saracen raids in the ¨ Map p326, G5 9th century, and the church you see today mainly dates ¨ %06 785 03 50 from the reconstruction initiated by Cardinal Borghese in ¨ www.catacombe.org the 17th century. It is dedicated to St Sebastian, who was martyred and buried here in the late 3rd century. In 826 ¨ Via Appia Antica 136 his body was transferred to St Peter’s for safekeeping, but ¨ adult/reduced €8/5 he was re-interred here in the 12th century. In the Capella ¨ h10am-5pm Mon- delle Reliquie you’ll find one of the arrows used to kill him Sat, closed Dec and the column to which he was tied. On the other side of ¨ gVia Appia Antica the church is a marble slab with Jesus’ footprints. Catacombs A warren of tunnels that lie beneath the church and beyond, the Catacombe di San Se- bastiano were the first catacombs to be so called, the name deriving from the Greek kata (near) and kymbas (cavity), because they were located near a cave. During the persecution of Christians by the emperor Vespasian from AD 258, it’s believed that the catacombs were used as a safe haven for the remains of St Peter and St Paul and became a popular pilgrimage site.
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