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TEKSTİL Mühendisliği Terimleri

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TEKSTİL Mühendisliği Terimleri abaka lifi (Alm. Manilahanf, m; Fr. fibre d'abaca, f; İng. abaca fiber) teks. Muzgiller familyasının bir üyesi olan abaka bitkisinin yapraklarından elde edilen, şapka ve halat gibi ürünlerin yapımında kullanılan, krem beyazdan kahverengiye kadar renkleri olan, dayanıklı, kaba, sert bir lif; eşanlam: manila keneviri. abiye (Alm. Abendkleid, n; Fr. robe de soirée, f; İng. evening dress) teks. Özel günlerde giyilen, gösterişli, şık kadın giysisi. abraj bkz. teks. dalgalı boyama kusuru. açıcı silindir (Alm. Auflösewalze, f; Fr. cylindre défibreur, m; İng. opening cylinder; opening roller) teks. Rotorlu açık uç eğirme ve sürtünmeli açık uç eğirme makinelerinde, beslenen lif bandının açılması ve temizlenmesi görevini yerine getiren, üzerinde genellikle testere dişli garnitür bulunan temel eğirme elemanı. açık ağızlık (Alm. Offenfach, n; Fr. pas ouvert, m; pas stationnaire, m; İng. open shed) teks. Dokuma işlemi sırasında örgü birimine göre yapılan seçim sonucu, konum değiştirmesi istenilen çerçevelerin alt ya da üst konuma doğru hareket ettiği, konumu değişmeyecek çerçevelerin ise önceki konumlarında bekleme yaptığı ağızlık türü. açık elyaf boyama aparatı (Alm. Packapparat, n; Fr. machine de teinture en bourse, f; İng. loose stock dyeing machine) teks. Liflerin ve bazen çile halindeki ipliklerin delikli taşıyıcı kovalara doldurulup boyandığı aparat. açık en boyama (Alm. Breitfärben, n; Fr. teinture au large, f; İng. open width dyeing) teks. Kumaşın, kenarlarını enine yönde geren bir mekanizmayla tutturularak açık ve düz halde kırışmadan boyanması. açık halde boyama (Alm. Slasher Färben, n; Fr. teinture slasher, f; İng. sheet dyeing; slasher dyeing) teks. Denim üretiminde kullanılacak çözgü ipliklerinin halat oluşturmadan çözgü levendine aktarılmış halde kesiksiz olarak haşıllanması ve boyanması işlemi. açık halde döngü boyama (teks. loop boyama) (Alm. Färben in der Schlaufe, n; İng. loop dyeing) teks. Denim üretiminde kullanılacak çözgü ipliklerinin açık halde, ancak açık halde boyamanın aksine hep aynı boyama teknesinden, istenilen renk koyuluğu elde edilene kadar çok sayıda (4-10 defa) geçirilip her tekneye dalışın ardından hava ile yükseltgenmesi şeklinde yapılan boyama işlemi. açık ilmek (Alm. offene Masche, f; Fr. maille ouverte, f; İng. open loop) teks. Çözgü örmeciliğinde, üst yatırım ve onu izleyen alt yatırımların aynı yönde olması durumunda elde edilen ilmek şekli. açık uç ipliği (Alm. open-end Garn, n; Rotorgarn, n; Fr. fil à fibres libérées, m; İng. open-end yarn) teks. Kesikli liflerden, rotor, hava jeti ya da sürtünme gibi açık uç eğirme yöntemleri kullanılarak eğrilmiş iplik. açılmış renk (Alm. Farbstich, m; Fr. teinte légère, f; teinture fugitive, f; İng. tint) teks. Bir renge beyaz ilave ederek elde edilen renk tonu; eşanlam: aklaştırılmış renk. afinite bkz. teks. ilginlik. ağartma (teks. kasar) 1. (Alm. Bleichung, f; Fr. blanchiment, m; İng. bleaching) deri. teks. Tekstil ya da deri malzemelerinin bir ön terbiye işlemi olarak indirgen ya da yükseltgen maddelerle doğal renklerinden arındırılıp beyazlatılması işlemi; eşanlam: aklaştırma, beyazlatma. 2. kim. Madde bünyesinde bulunan safsızlıkların fiziksel ya da kimyasal aracılarla giderilmesi sonunda rengin açılması, aklaşması. ağırlaştırma (Alm. Beschwerung, f; Fr. matière de charge, f; produit de remplissage, m; İng. filling; loading; weighting) teks. Selüloz liflerinden yapılmış kumaşların daha ağır ve dolgun bir tutum kazanmasını sağlamak için bitim işlemleri banyosuna sodyum sülfat, magnezyum sülfat, baryum sülfat, kalsiyum sülfat gibi bileşiklerin ilave edilmesi. ağızlık (Alm. Fach, n; Fr. foule, f; İng. shed) teks. Atkı atımından önce çözgü ipliklerinin iki tabakaya ayrılarak oluşturduğu üçgen kesitli tünel. akarsuda havuzlama (Alm. Strömungrösten, n; Fr. rouissage à l’eau courrante, m; İng. stream retting) teks. Keten, kenevir gibi bazı bitki gövdelerinin akarsuya daldırılıp çürütülerek lif elde edilmesini sağlayan bir havuzlama çeşidi. akıllı tekstil (Alm. intelligente Textilware, f; Fr. textile intelligent; İng. intelligent textile; smart textile) teks. Mekanik, ısıl, kimyasal, elektriksel, manyetik gibi uyarıcı ya da dış koşulları algılayıp tepki verebilen tekstil ürünleri. akrilik fiber bkz. teks. akrilik lif. akrilik lif (teks. akrilik fiber; teks. poliakrilnitril lifi) (Alm. Acrylfaser, f; Fr. fibre acrylique, f; İng. acrylic fiber) teks. Kimyasal yapısında en az %85 oranında akrilonitril içeren, akrilonitril ve bir komonomerin oluşturduğu polimerden elde edilen, yapay lifler arasında yüne en çok benzeyen elyaf türü. aks (teks. kros) 1. (Alm. Kreuz, n; Fr. croix, f; İng. cross) teks. Tekstil basmacılığında, desenin tam ya da ölçekli olarak küçültülmüş boyutlardaki tekrar aralığı ölçülerini belirleyen hassas, ince, "+" şeklindeki işaret. 2. bkz. mak. dingil. aksesuar (Alm. Accessoire, n; Zubehör, n; Fr. accessoire, m; İng. accessory) teks. Giysiyi bütünleyen düğme, ayakkabı, çanta, kemer, şapka, eldiven, fular, mücevher gibi eşyalar. aktif akıllı tekstil (Alm. aktive intelligente Textilware; Fr. textile intelligent actif; İng. active smart textile) teks. Biçim belleğine sahip, ısı depolayan, düzenleyen, ve/veya üreten, buhar soğurabilen, tekstil ürün örneklerinde olduğu gibi, edilgen akıllı tekstillerden daha gelişmiş olarak algıçların yanı sıra içerdiği eyleyiciler sayesinde tepki verebilen tekstil ürünleri. aktif klor (Alm. Aktivchlor, n; Fr. chlore actif, m; İng. active chlorine) teks. Tekstil malzemelerinin sodyum hipokloritle ağartılmasında yükseltgenmeyi sağlayan, ağartma gücü olan klor. aktivatör (Alm. Aktivator, m; Fr. activateur, m; İng. activator) 1. biyom. Prokaryotlarda DNA üzerinde özgül bölgelere bağlanarak transkripsiyonu uyaran, pozitif kontrolde iş gören düzenleyici protein. 2. kim. Fosforun kristal yapısına eklenerek daha uzun ya da daha kısa ışıma gibi istenen özellikleri kazandıran katkılayıcı madde. 3. bkz. teks. etkinleştirici. akunt lifi (İng. akund; akund floss; calotropis floss) teks. Doğal olarak Güney Asya ve Afrika'da yetişen Calotropis procera ve C. gigantea bitkilerinin tohumlarından elde edilen, bazen kapokla karıştırılarak kullanılan tohum lifi. aldatıcı kontrast (Alm. illusorischer Kontrast; Fr. contraste illusoire, m; İng. illusory contrast) teks. Siyah, beyaz ya da gri renklerin etkisiyle bir rengin farklı görünmesi; eşanlam: yanıltıcı kontrast. alıcı kanca (İng. taker gripper) teks. Çift kancalı dokuma makinesinde atkı atımı sırasında verici kanca yardımıyla ağızlığın ortasına kadar taşınan atkı ipliğini alıp karşı tarafa ileten dokuma makinesi elemanı. alıcı silindir (Alm. Abstreifwalze, f; Fr. détacheur, m; İng. stripper) teks. Uzun lif iplikçiliğinde, tarak makinesinde tambur üzerinden lifi alarak çalışıcı silindire aktaran, üzeri garnitür telleri ile kaplı silindir. alıkonan banyo (Alm. Flottenaufnahme, f; Fr. absorption de flotté, f; İng. liquor pick-up; liquor up- take) teks. Tekstil malzemesinin terbiye işlem çözeltisi ile emdirilip sıkıldıktan sonra üzerinde kalan işlem çözeltisinin tekstil malzemesinin ağırlığına göre yüzde olarak miktarı; eşanlam: alınan flotte, alınan banyo. alizarin (Alm. Alizarin, n; Fr. alizarine, f; İng. alizarin) teks. Günümüzde katrandan sentezlenen, aslında kökboya bitkisinin kökünde glikozit halinde bulunan, C14H8O4 formülünde antrakinon türevi olan turuncu kırmızı renkli bir boyarmadde. aljinat lifi (Alm. Alginat-Faser, f; Fr. fibre d'alginate, f; İng. alginate fiber) teks. Deniz yosunlarından çöktürülen aljinik asidin, sodyum karbonatta çözünmesiyle elde edilen sodyum aljinattan lif çekilerek üretilen ve dantel yapımında, tiyatro perdeliklerinde, tıbbi tekstillerde kullanılan bir lif. alkali haslığı (Alm. Alkaliechtheit, f; Fr. résistance aux alcalis, f; İng. alkali fastness) deri. teks. Boyanmış ya da basılmış tekstil ya da deri malzemesinin belirli koşullar altında bazlara, genellikle soda çözeltisine karşı gösterdikleri dayanıklılık. alpaka lifi (Alm. Alpakahaar, n; Fr. poil d'alpaca, m; İng. alpaca fiber) teks. Deve familyasından, Güney Amerika'da yaşayan alpakanın tüylerinin kırkılması ile elde edilen eldiven, eşarp, şapka, giysi üretiminde kullanılan parlak, ipeksi hayvansal lif. alt yatırım (Alm. Unterlegung, f; Fr. changement latéral de l'arbre à cames, m; İng. shogging; underlap) teks. Çözgü örmeciliğinde ilmek oluşumu sırasında yatırım raylarının iğnelerin arka tarafında ve iğnelere paralel olarak yaptığı yanal hareket. alta açılan ağızlık teks. Dokuma makinesinde, örgü birimine göre kumaşın arka yüzünde yer alacak çözgü ipliklerinin bağlı olduğu çerçevelerin, çözgü ve göğüs köprülerinin oluşturduğu yatay çizgiden aşağıya indirilmesiyle oluşturulan ağızlık. altta kapalı ağızlık (Alm. Geschlossenfach, n; Fr. foule fermée, f; İng. closed shed) teks. Her atkı atımından sonra ağızlık kapanırken tüm çerçevelerin alt pozisyona geldiği ve örgü birimine göre hangi çerçevenin üst konuma yükseleceğinin bu konumda belirlendiği ağızlık türü. Amerikan bezi (Fr. étoffe unie non blanchie, f; İng. unbleached plain fabric) teks. Bezayağı örgü yapısında, genellikle Ne 12-16 numara karde pamuk ipliğinden, sıklığı 15-20 tel/cm olarak dokunan ve ağartma işlemi uygulanmayan kumaş; eşanlam: kaput bezi. amorf bölge (Alm. amorphe Zone, f; amorpher Bereich, m; Fr. zone amorphe, f; İng. amorphous region) teks. Lif yapısında yer alan bazı polimerlerin arasındaki bağların yetersiz olmasından dolayı su ya da çeşitli çözeltilerin lif yapısına kolay girebildiği kısım. ana çekim (Alm. Hauptverzug, m; Fr. étirage principal; İng. main draft) teks. İplik üretiminde, iki bölgeli çekim sistemlerinde,
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