Fiddling with Fashion NEW YORK — If Music Be the Food of Fashion, Play On
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PENNEY’S GETS NICOLE MILLER/2 SURVIVING FASHION WEEK/28 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • February 7, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Fiddling With Fashion NEW YORK — If music be the food of fashion, play on. A twist of the Bard’s words, but for Alexandre Herchcovitch’s poetic, quirky collection — where live musicians walked behind each model — it seems fitting. The Brazilian designer ruffled, layered and tiered with flourish, but never veered into preciousness. Here, a belted jacket and slim pants. For more on the collections, see pages 8 to 13. On the Road to Recovery: As Donna’s Knee Mends, So Does DKNY By Marc Karimzadeh management changes, DKNY hobbling on crutches or sitting in a NEW YORK — Donna Karan will seems to have turned the corner and wheelchair after breaking her left celebrate a twofold recovery at the is now on course to experience a knee skiing in Sun Valley over a DKNY fall presentation this quiet but definite renaissance. month ago, she is making a afternoon. The same can be said for Karan speedier-than-expected recovery After retail challenges and several herself. Though the designer is still See A Twofold, Page 18 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2005 WWD.COM Penney’s to Offer Exclusive Spitzer Sues Simon’s Malls WWDMONDAY Collection by Nicole Miller Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By David Moin Miller — who showed Thursday Over Gift Cards GENERAL during New York Fashion Week Donna Karan, who is recovering from a broken knee, is also experiencing a NEW YORK — In a bold move to — could encourage other design- By Elizabeth Morrow 1 recovery in her DKNY business, which she shows today. round out its women’s apparel ers to broaden distribution strate- Mall operator Simon Property Group was hit with a lawsuit by New York offerings and elevate its fashion gies with Penney’s, as well. Often, ALBANY, N.Y. — Simon Property 2 Attorney General Eliot Spitzer for violating the state’s law on gift-card fees. image, J.C. Penney this month the arrangements are highly lu- Group Inc., which operates 10 will roll out an exclusive collec- crative for the designer, and pro- shopping malls and outlet cen- EYE: Back-to-back shows, late night dinners and even later parties. Ah, tion designed by Nicole Miller, vide cachet to the retailer. ters in New York state, was hit 4 fashion week. These pros have the know-how to flit from place to place. WWD has learned. Penney’s has continually been with a lawsuit by Attorney FASHION: As the fall collections continued, Baby Phat, Tracy Reese and on the hunt for brands and de- General Eliot Spitzer on Friday 8 Catherine Malandrino were among the important shows in the lineup. signers, sometimes trying to lure for violating the state’s restric- those that have established rela- tions on fees on gift cards. Classified Advertisements ..................................................................25-27 tionships with department store To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is operators, such as Federated [email protected], using the individual’s name. Department Stores, Dillard’s and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 May Department Stores, with FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. higher percentages of branded VOLUME 189, NO. 27. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional and designer offerings. issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL The Plano, Tex.-based OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Penney’s is the nation’s second- Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, largest seller of women’s appar- Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- el, next to Wal-Mart, and has a President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Nicole leading market share in Miller No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. women’s careerwear, juniors’, POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR outerwear and dresses. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is The collection, called nicole The nicole by Nicole Miller required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new by Nicole Miller, will be re- collection already is being subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Attorney General correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, vealed to the media on Feb. 15 shipped to Penney’s stores around Eliot Spitzer please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild at the Four Seasons Hotel here. the country and is expected to be magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully PHOTO BY AP/GREGORY BULL screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Penney’s few attempts at mar- sold at 467 doors by Feb. 20. It will these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. keting exclusive designer collec- also be available on the Penney’s The case, which was filed in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tions have generally not had long- Web site and in its catalogue. Manhattan State Supreme Court, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART term success. For two decades, A Penney’s spokeswoman alleges that fees on its “Simon WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED the department store has characterized the Nicole Miller Giftcard” violate the state’s law TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. launched and discontinued col- collection as dressy-casual that went into effect Oct. 18. lections under the Halston, Mary geared toward women seeking “The gift card law was enact- McFadden and Parallel labels. versatile clothes suitable for ed to protect consumers against But currently, the company work or weekendwear. “It will be hidden and unwarranted fees sells Bisou Bisou contemporary an interpretation of her classic that diminish the balance of gift Murder Rocks Fekkai sportswear and Chris Madden American style, with signature cards,” Spitzer said. “Those who home products exclusively in its feminine, flirty and fun touches violate this important consumer NEW YORK — Celebrity hair stylist Frédéric Fekkai issued a state- stores, and has over the past and a lot of details,” she said. protection law will face vigor- ment over the weekend expressing his grief over the murder of couple of years overhauled its In addition, nicole by Nicole ous prosecution by my office.” Inessa Ivanov, a colorist at his salon for the past 10 years, who was private brand offerings for Miller is expected to be the cen- The civil penalty fines can be gunned down on Madison Avenue and 57th Street Friday night. greater quality and value. terpiece of a dressy-casual shop up to $1,000 per violation, ac- “Inessa Ivanov was a dear friend to all of us at Fekkai. We are The company relies heavily on concept being developed inside cording to a spokeswoman for deeply saddened by this tragedy,” said Fekkai. “Inessa will be al- its in-house brands, among them, Penney’s stores. Spitzer’s office. ways remembered in our spirit. Her family and those close to her the well-known Worthington collec- The collection includes city At its shopping malls and on have our most sincere sympathy. We will do everything we can to tion for career clothes, St. John’s coats, jackets, skirts, pants, its Web site, Simon promotes and help the authorities in their investigation.” Bay for casual sportswear and cropped pants, knit tops, sells prepaid gift cards, the Ivanov, 39, was shot by her ex-husband, Vadim Ivanov, as she the denim-based Arizona brand. sweaters and dresses. Prices will spokeswoman said. Simon left the Madison Avenue salon around 7 p.m. on Friday, accord- The move to partner with the range from $26 for camisoles to charges a fee of $1.50 for each ing to police. Before turning the gun on himself, Vadim Ivanov respected and enduring Nicole $100 for a lightweight city coat.