IN DEPTH/19-30 JILTED BY J.LO/9 Suzy’s Back! WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’WEDN Daily Newspaper • SeptemberESDAY 17, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 58 $1.75 Ruffled Up NEW YORK — In a season that’s long on pretty, feminine looks, ’ beautiful spring collection had plenty to offer. But that wasn’t all — he showed a tomboy side, too. There were touches of Theda Bara, prairie looks, and lots and lots of dresses, many of them ruffled, played off against such pieces as washed linen jackets, shorts and pants. Here, one of Jacobs’ stunning fluffy dresses. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 13.

The New King of Textiles: Wilbur Ross Plans to Add Cone Mills to His Empire By Scott Malone NEW YORK — The one-man campaign of Wilbur Ross to restructure the U.S. textile industry took a dramatic turn on Tuesday. The bankruptcy baron said he had agreed to purchase denim maker Cone Mills Corp., which he would then merge into Burlington Industries, once he closes on his acquisition of that firm. The deal, which follows a similar strategy to the one the financier took in See Wilbur, Page41

The Move to the Middle/16 The Space Crunch in Better/34 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY

974 New York, 5-3-18 Minami Aoyama Minato-Ku Tokyo 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Bon-Ton Wins Elder-Beerman Chase GENERAL As New York sashayed on, the news of the day came from , Badgley Mischka, Marc Jacobs, Miguel Adrover and many others. By Vicki M. Young Wright and Bon-Ton have been Elder-Beerman would become a 6 trading barbs and bids since subsidiary of Bon-Ton. Wilbur Ross’ campaign to restructure the U.S. textile industry rolled on, as NEW YORK — The third time’s Bon-Ton entered the bidding for Tim Grumbacher, Bon-Ton’s 1 he said he’d buy Cone Mills and merge it into Burlington Industries. the charm for The Bon-Ton the Dayton, Ohio-based depart- chairman and chief executive of- Stores Inc. ment store group in July. ficer, said in a statement, “We are The retail landscape has shifted and stores are competing for customers Perseverance paid off as the Bon-Ton said that the merger very pleased to have the opportu- 16 within their own price level, but also higher and lower. retailer said Tuesday that it en- has been approved by the nity to merge these two strong re- WEST: Wal-Mart has a plan to open 40 Supercenters in California, but it’s tered into a “definitive merger boards of directors of both com- tail companies. The strategic and 4 met some roadblocks in the form of lawsuits filed to keep it from coming. agreement” providing for its panies. The retailer said it will operational potential of this busi- purchase of The Elder-Beerman promptly commence a cash ten- ness combination is exceptional Suzy’s back! And she’s got tales of royals, serenes, and the odd movie star, Stores Corp. for $92.8 million. der offer for all outstanding and the ability to add value to our 14 plus fireworks over and lots of galas. The assumption of about $110 shares of Elder-Beerman, fol- shareholders is very compelling. WWDItaly In Depth, a special report, appears on pages 19-30. million in debt puts the deal lowed by a second step merger “The companies have a simi- just over the $200 million mark. of Elder-Beerman by a Bon-Ton lar customer base and compara- Classified Advertisements ...... 43-47 In its third attempt to buy its subsidiary. Completion of the ble merchandise offerings, as To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fellow regional department offer is contingent on the tender well as little or no geographic [email protected], using the individual's name. store, York, Pa.-based Bon-Ton on of at least two-thirds of the out- overlap. We look forward to ex- SUBSCRIPTION RATES Monday provided the winning standing Elder-Beerman shares panding our partnerships with U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. bid when, as reported, it upped on a fully diluted basis, avail- the vendor community, banks Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 the ante to $8.00 a share, or a 20 ability of the proceeds of the fi- and other business partners, as Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. cent premium, to Wright Hold- nancing under previously re- we work toward the common WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and September and three in August, by Fairchild ings’ $7.80 offer on Friday. While ceived commitment letters and goal of maximizing the potential Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. an acquisition of Elder-Beerman applicable regulatory approvals. of this acquisition.” WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. has been in the works since May, Under the arrangement, Continued on page 39 No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of Wal-Mart Faces WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Unveils Redo Calif. Roadblocks For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. Of Store To Supercenters In Brief By Anamaria Wilson forecast for first-year store ● CHARLOTTE’S NEW MERCHANT: Charlotte Russe Holding said sales, she did say “the store has By Kristin Young its president and chief merchandising officer, Harriet Sustarsic, NEW YORK — John Galliano’s been trending very strongly and would resign. It named Donna Desrosiers to the newly created po- vivid imagination demands per- the company picked up 42 per- LOS ANGELES — California sition of executive vice president and general merchandising man- fection, so it should come as no cent last year, which was compa- might have its quirks — like ager for the CR chain. Desrosiers previously served as general surprise that creating the right rable growth in the U.S. This porn stars running for governor merchandise manager at Canadian companies that operate in jun- backdrop to showcase his wares year we’re trending in the 20s — but the state has never been ior women’s , including Ricki’s, a division of Comark/ARG, for Christian Dior took more again and the New York store is known as antibusiness. and Suzy Shier Inc., a specialty retailer of over 240 locations. The than one try at the company’s very much a part of that trend.” However, as Wal-Mart Stores company said Sustarsic is leaving to spend more time with her flagship here. In a bid to create an environ Inc. gears up to put 40 Super- family. Mark Hoffman, chief executive, said in a statement, “CR is What began as a “facelift” of that mixes modernity and warmth centers in the state within the extremely appreciative of how Harriet’s efforts helped transform the 6,000-square-foot women’s along with the vestiges of Dior’s next three to five years, the retail- the company from a regional operator of 35 stores into a national store at 21 East 57th Street has signature touches, the company er has met stumbling blocks. retailer with more than 300 stores over the past seven years.” morphed instead into an entire combined white lacquer walls, Besides the 130 traditional stores redesign, which will be un- cream-colored limestone floors, it operates in the state, the first ● QUEENS OF QUEENS: Who’s the next face of Queens? The veiled today. textured dove gray rugs in animal Supercenters — units with full- Queens Center will hold an open casting call Friday and Saturday “The old store was very mod- prints and polished nickel fix- line discount stores and super- to find the faces and personalities that best represent the borough. ern, but what was missing was tures. Yet it was careful to re- markets under one roof, ranging Winners will appear in an ad campaign promoting the expanded the soul of what Dior is,” said design antique looks to give them from 109,000 to 230,000 square shopping mall. The ad campaign, “Grow Your Own Way,” aims to Marla Sabo, president and chief a modern feel with updated Louis feet, or roughly twice the size of capture the spirit behind the modernization of the Queens Center, operating officer of Christian XVI chairs and love seats, as well its typical stores — are slated to which will be expanded to nearly 1 million square feet with more Dior Couture for the U.S. “It was as plaster friezes copied from the bow in La Quinta in the spring, than 100 additional retailers. Phase one of the opening is sched- pretty and functional and met house’s Avenue Montaigne store. followed by yet-to-be-scheduled uled for March. The stars of the campaign will be announced the our needs at that time. But, as Also, the space’s color palette was openings in Bakersfield, Hanford, week of Oct. 6. Auditions take place on the Concourse Level of the the house evolved since the store taken from the store. Chico and Redding. Queens Center on Friday, from 6 to 9 a.m., and Saturday from 9 opened in December of ’99, so “It’s the perfect balance of A number of consumer advo- a.m. to noon. Queens Center is owned by The Macerich Co. did our needs.” being true to our heritage, but cacy groups and municipal gov- While Sabo declined to give a Continued on page 40 ernments where Supercenters ● GEHRY’S TIME: Architect Frank Gehry is adding his name to are bound are fighting to keep the watch arena under a new licensing agreement with Fossil Inc. the Bentonville, Ark., giant out, The 10-piece debut collection includes women’s and men’s styles citing loss of open spaces, traffic in materials such as titanium and leather, and the numbers and congestion, environmental is- hands on the dial are original reproductions of Gehry’s handwrit- sues and poor wages for subur- ing. Set to hit department, specialty and museum stores this ban workers. October, the watches carry an average retail price of about $105. Here are some recent battles: Fossil, which also makes watches for brands including Burberry, ● A handful of Palm Desert Emporio and DKNY, declined to give sales projections. residents filed a lawsuit in April against the city, intending to stall the construction of a Supercenter scheduled to open there next summer. Plaintiffs claim they Correction would be “irreparably harmed by DDCLAB space will host a party Thursday night. The date was the approval of the project and its incorrect on page 10, Tuesday. potentially detrimental environ- mental consequences,” according to court documents. WWDStock Market Index for September 16 ● Contra Costa County, a sub- urb of San Francisco, passed an Composite: 116.75 Broadline Stores: 117.67 Softline Stores: 117.57 ordinance to keep a Supercenter out under a law that prevents a full-line grocery store from oper- ating in non-incorporated por- tions of the county. Wal-Mart offi- 1.24 1.29 2.19 cials claim the retailer qualifies for a referendum in the county Vendors: 112.40 Textiles: 120.95 based on 40,000 signatures it col- Index base of 100 is lected, and there are plans to keyed to closing prices take the matter to voters in an as- of Dec. 31, 2002. yet-unscheduled special election. 0.43 -1.34 Continued on page 42

6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 The Beautiful and Pretty as a picture. It’s the message of the season, championed by Marc Jacobs and the Badgley Mischka duo. But Franci

Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs: Romper, bomper, stomper, boo, as Miss Diane used to say on Romper Room. I see Stephanie Marc Jacobs Badgley [Seymour], and Hilary [Swank] and over there changing her seat, I Mischka see Paris. But who the heck cares? Because isn’t that Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou seated oh-so-prominently in the front row? Kind of makes you wonder, no? Rumors have had Stroll in investment mode; he certainly is pulling out all the stops at Asprey, readying about 40,000 square feet of retail space between the New York and flagships. Jacobs and Robert Duffy may just feel that it’s time to take the company to the next level as they say, especially the still-small Marc by Marc line. And M. Arnault did sell the Jacobs beauty company to the highest bidder, right? Oh, but we digress — sort of. Because the collection Jacobs showed — or wait, finally showed — on Monday night after a hideous, sweat-drenched delay (thanks for the weight loss, guys, but we’ll take our steam bath at the gym) — was an investor’s delight. And for more reasons than one. First, it glowed with beautiful clothes, metallic and otherwise. Second, it highlighted Jacobs’ willingness to fix a mistake. Last season, he went crazy for Courrèges. It didn’t work on the runway, and it didn’t sell well in the stores — as indicated by his beloved It girls who skipped right over that collection and turned up for the show decked in spanking new resort clothes. Those girls — and retailers — will love this collection, one that new played to an ingenue with attitude, negotiating her way through an identity crisis of sorts: york Am I a spunky tomboy or an all- york out flirt? To find her way, she tinkered with elements of Theda Bara, the Eighties’ slouch, homebound granny (velvet tuxedo bed jackets) and oh, yes, prairie, for a chic collage in which nothing looked literal — but everything look great. Jacobs worked the soft side of sportswear with baggy washed linen jackets, pants and shorts, no less utilitarian for their gentle colors — aside from the short-shorts Marc by Calvin lined in tea-stained ruffles. He put these with Marc Klein striped silk blouses, some opened in back, Jacobs and more sweaters than he has put on the runway in some time. But his biggest concentration was on dresses: shower curtain florals, flapper velvets or reams of ruffles, the latter sometimes cut off over pants or skirts. No such fluffery at Marc by Marc Jacobs, though, where a tougher, more vibrant mood took hold. The models’ glittered eyelids referenced the Eighties, and they wore all kinds of colorful pieces piled on with club kid-meets-street urchin indiscretion. But then, this huge line can be remixed to suit almost any girl’s shopping urges — and who knows? Maybe even a suit or two.

Calvin Klein: How to succeed a living legend? No one thought it would be easy. Yet sitting at the Calvin Klein show at Milk Studios on Tuesday night, a surreal aura enveloped the room. Klein wasn’t supposed to be standing by the wall, about to take in the first post-Calvin collection of the company that bears his name. But there he was. And there we all were, waiting to experience that initial step in a new era for arguably the most famous — and indisputably the most controversial — house in the history of American fashion. At his best, Klein captivated us with his bravura — the shocking spareness of a slip collection; the advanced awkwardness of the New Length; the iconic advertising — while delivering beautiful, gloriously wearable clothes. Marc Jacobs More than any other American, he fused the roles of major designer and cultural provocateur. Would his hand-picked successor, Francisco Costa, assume the mantle with authority? Sadly, not in his debut. It has become clichéd to note the difficulty in designing minimalist fashion. Similarly, recent hires here and in Europe have spotlighted the challenges of succession at major houses, and how few appointees seem up to the task. A new designer’s mandate is to capture the essence of the superstar predecessor, while staking his own claim on the house’s WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 7 Fashion Scoops

GUERRILLA MARKETING: Ever Poodles promoting wondered about the craze on Damrak gin. ▲ right before and dtheBland just after a show? While bystanders may blame the cisco Costa, in his Calvin Klein debut, took a dimmer view of things. frenzied fashion crowd, many see it as the result of guerrilla creative future. To that end, Costa has a tougher job than marketing tactics that have taken most, since who, from industry executives to rank-and-file over Bryant Park this season. consumers, does not have a clear image of the Calvin Case in point: When editors aesthetic, be it based on ready-to-wear, underwear and buyers exit shows, a brown or advertising imagery? Costa’s effort for spring paper bag filled with a smoothie, suggested that he has no clue how to embrace an apple and a protein bar is Kate Spade’s that core and propel it forward. One observer shoved into their hands — uniforms for Song. ▲ called the collection “bad and boring at the courtesy of low-cost airline Song, same time.” which has its booth centrally Costa opened with a mundane teak- located within reach of the three

▲ Calvin Klein colored jacket and shorts combo, and went show venues. on through a series of blandly eclectic moves But the madness continues unified by a mostly neutral palette. Yes, outside the tents. Like a second- there were good sweaters, shirts and an rate department store cosmetics appealing coat or two, but nothing to area, product is being spritzed at indicate genuine vision; naming editors and buyers from every colors after makeup shades — angle. Some of it smells like a good A flyer marketing blitz hit Fashion Week. “foundation” or “eye shadow” — is idea, and some is just plain stinky. no substitute for an idea. Nor is On Tuesday, the scene reached an out-there shock of a pink sack fever pitch: dozens of scantily dress that splashed down into a dressed women aggressively puddle of references. offered the fashion week dailies Odder still is that these and Gap reps handed out woolen doldrums followed Costa’s chevron sweaters. Marketers, impressive resort collection. scattered across the area, But then, that’s also the good accosted editors with advertising fliers for The Brini Maxwell Show (who?) on the news. Because in that line, Style Network, 50-cent coupons for Endulge Atkins ice cream and even maps Costa displayed a greater sense promoting shopping in Las Vegas. Damrak gin had three well-groomed white of daring — and of self. Perhaps poodles wearing a promotional sweater to flog the booze. “We love fashion, the by fall, they will reemerge, and dogs are fashionable, and everybody likes to have a good drink,” said a Damrak he will begin the daunting task spokesman. of putting his own mark on the Meanwhile, Kate Spade, who’s designing uniforms for the Song airline, got into essence of Calvin Klein. First the act by giving each attendee at her press preview Tuesday morning a round-trip he must get comfortable with coach class to any Song destination, good for the next year, courtesy of the new the new name on the design carrier. The retro-chic Spade-designed uniforms also made their official debut at studio door. the press breakfast, and are set to hit the air around Valentine’s Day.

Badgley Mischka: To BIELLA DU JOUR: It looks like Damiano Biella, the former creative director for prepare Exit 28 for the , has landed on his feet. A Valentino spokesman confirmed runway, Mark Badgley and that Biella is about to start work at Valentino as studio director, a new design James Mischka tossed a post. An announcement with more details is expected shortly. Valentino will wonderful beaded, gray stay on as chief designer and creative director for couture and ready-to-wear. chiffon gown in the wash Biella resigned from Herrera in February after four-and-a-half years with after they had beaded it. the New York-based firm and was succeeded by design director Hervé Pierre Ouch. The beads got scruffy, Braillard and Carolina’s youngest daughter, Patricia Lansing, as designer. the dress smeared, smudged and stained. But MELTING AT MARC: The sweltering that vintage feeling was temperature at Marc Jacobs’ show at the exactly what they were Lexington Armory Monday night clearly looking for. Turns out, the divided the hot and bothered from the duo had learned something cool and comfortable. about the process years ago arrived wearing a one-shoulder Stella Sissy Spacek and when a magazine editor McCartney sweater with boyfriend, Schuyler and returned a dress that had been ruined by ’s Stephan Jenkins, in Madison Fisk. water. The boys were devastated then, but tow. “I’m really hot and sweating,” all that’s changed now. Carlton complained. “And I forgot to Inspired by an “urban Southern belle — a wear deodorant.” Hilary Swank, on the deranged one, at that,” said Mischka, the other hand, had on a halter top and a collection they sent out on Tuesday was more mini. “I knew it was going to be hot so I playful and had a seemingly devil-may-care didn’t wear cashmere,” Swank attitude toward the very things — elaborate explained. “I had inside information.” Zoe Cassavetes beading and designs — upon which they have Gabriel Byrne arrived solo; his 11- and Sofia built their business. All the bows, streamers, year-old daughter decided to stay at Coppola ▲ ribbons and the most random-like placement of home. “She welshed out and went to pearls and crystals (many taken from tiaras never bed,” said Byrne, who hadn’t been to a Hilary Swank used in their bridal collection) added magic to a little fashion show since Gianni ’s last and Robert silk white lace and georgette babydoll frock, a white silk one in in 1997. “She got second Duffy ▲ shirtdress or a series of crepe tops. Not to mention nearly thoughts. She had more of an idea of everything else they sent out. White ribbons diagonally what this was going to be like than I did,” he added, surveying the chaotic traffic marked a crystal-beaded short sheath. And there was jam of photographers, hangers-on and celebrities, including Paris Hilton, The something at once regal and girlish about a white wool Strokes and Amanda Peet. coat with a band of crystals weaving inside and out around Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon was there — not surprisingly, since she and her the waist, worn over a short dress in tiered tulle. The family are featured in the new set of Jacobs’ magazine advertisements. design duo actually frayed chiffon and fashioned it into a “People haven’t really noticed them — just a few friends,” Gordon admitted. simple jacket and slim skirt. Another knockout — an “I’m not really that well known, anyway, so most people probably are just Badgley Mischka ▲ embellishment-free navy lace jacket over a flirty rose wondering, ‘Who is that?’” satin skirt. And while they had the requisite long At the after party at the Maritime Hotel, Sissy Spacek munched on sushi beauties, it was the quirkiness of those short looks that with her daughters, Schuyler and Madison Fisk, while Gina Gershon mixed with made everyone so nuts — in a good way. , Gisele Bündchen and Sofia Coppola. Swank bopped back and forth Badgley and Mischka were having fun, and it between the VIP party, at Matsuri and the hotel’s ballroom, which was so showed. And there was a stellar front-row lineup to packed with people it resembled the rave scene in “The Matrix: Reloaded.” She rave about the team’s stunning collection, including pitched in for a few minutes to sell T-shirts and other memorabilia to benefit Cornelia Guest, Blaine Trump, Beyoncé, Cynthia the Harvey Milk School. “A woman came over and bought a T-shirt and I said, Nixon, Kelly Klein, Bebe Neuwirth and Toni ‘And?’ So she bought another one. And then I said, ‘And?’ And she bought Braxton. And if ever there was a collection that another one. I sold her like 10 shirts,” Swank enthused. “I told everyone else could satisfy the disparate tastes of these women, they couldn’t take a picture of me unless they bought a T-shirt.”

this was it. GEORGE CHINSEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 The Wheel of Fas Round and round and round she goes, where she stops, nobody knows. Some designers went their own ways with great results,

Bill Blass: Fashion can be many things. But it is seldom reverential, and cannot Bill Blass be static or reactionary. (Intentional retro is a different matter.) Thus, Michael Vollbracht’s first runway new collection for Bill Blass was doomed to fail. Vollbracht, who worked shoulder-to-shoulder with Blass on his retrospective at Indiana york University last year, spent two years immersed in the designer’s archives. Before that, Vollbracht had taken a 15- year hiatus from the fashion world. Just like Rip Van Winkle, he reentered a very different world than the one he left. Back then, models modeled. Lunching ladies were probably fashion’s most important constituency, and Bill Blass, the man and house, sat at the top of their games. Clearly Vollbracht, along with those calling the business shots chez Blass, refused to accept that times have changed. If all of the recent resuscitations of storied houses have indicated anything, it’s that sadly, or not, you can’t go home again. Or at least you Bill can’t go home, conjure up the same muse, Blass pull out the same patterns, settle into the same chair and get back to business as usual. But that’s what Vollbracht did. He then lined up Karen Bjornson to open his show, and also cast Pat Cleveland and Dianne deWitt, who worked the line along with current models. (Ironically, none of the three had any significant history with Blass.) And when a blonde teenager follows the gyrating Cleveland, the former done up in a jacquard dinner suit and supersized French twist, she looks like she’s playing dress-up in mom’s clothing. Except that mom probably has no swelling desire to stock up on wide, pleated pants and faux-haute clutch coats. In fact, there was nothing about this show that rang the faintest bell of modernity. Which is too bad, because some of Vollbracht’s work, especially the graceful gowns, looked lovely and timeless if not au courant. Styled differently, they might have made some impact. But the bigger problems are the albatross of Vollbracht’s overt reverence and the house’s apparent refusal to seek out a new, broader customer base. These must be Miguel DKNY addressed if Bill Blass can hope to Adrover compete long-term in a market crowded with designer names.

Miguel Adrover: Miguel Adrover wants to do something unusual in fashion: He wants to design and produce clothes on his own terms and his own schedule. His stance has a decidedly antifashion ring, one that chimes back and forth between views specific to the industry — “A lot of people are more into clothing than fashion; when things change too quickly, they lose interest” — and those more global in scope — “It’s about the social classes all coming together; a woman working in the fields can have the same style as a woman in fashion.” At least on Adrover’s runway — a place that is nothing if not intriguing. The collection he showed on Monday night was not an easy collection to love, nor one for which fashion girls will rush to queue up for the wait-list ledgers. But it was most definitely provocative, meticulously conceived and brilliantly executed. (Martin Greenfield, who produces Adrover’s tailoring, certainly knows how to cut a jacket.) The collection picked up on the global village philosophy of which the designer is unabashedly proud. “Street culture. New York. The homeless. Revolution — it’s everything,” he said of the collection. “Like a movie about the real world where we live.” To wit, nomads, hobos and meticulously groomed Connecticut Yankees toured his runway, some wearing piles of clothes in genuine or mock layers and others as haughtily spiffy as Kate Hepburn. But despite moments of lightness — a fabulous, sailing ship dress and trim bird-motif shirtdress, both hand-painted by Adrover’s friend, Pere Bennassar, come to mind — the clothes were heavy, sometimes mercilessly so, in weight and spirit, and not merely because he emphasized fall-winter over spring. But then, he has no desire to traffic in throwaway chic. If something looks out of sync with the whim of the moment, so be it. “My navy jacket is beautiful,” he said. “I don’t want it to be gone next season. I want someone to wear it and keep it in the closet until it falls apart.” What kind of audience he finds remains to be seen. But certainly there is a customer for such beautiful work — if Adrover can secure the financing necessary to reach her. As for WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 9

the prices of these power-to-the-people clothes, that, too, has yet to be defined exactly, but will, Adrover says, “be related to the work and the quality.”

DKNY: Young (and other) New Yorkers seeking the thrill of the open Jilted by J.Lo road certainly wouldn’t have found it on the traffic-filled ones leading the way to the Chelsea photo studio for DKNY’s spring show. NEW YORK — Jennifer Lopez wasn’t the only But was kind enough to provide a trippy visual one left at the altar — so were , backdrop of said road to get show-goers in the mood. Ralph Lauren and Garrard. She started off promisingly with a light-as-air trench layered over Now that the much-ballyhooed J.Lo-Ben ashion a shirtdress, both in a khaki washed silk that oozed ease. And she Affleck wedding is kaput, the designers are while others tried to revive the past. followed it up with more looks in a desert-like palette of neutrals finding themselves with some mighty fine punctuated by a sporty dash of heather gray or bright yellow that wedding outfits on their hands. Not to men- captured the utilitarian romance of the open road: a perfectly worn tion some hefty bills. shrunken leather jacket over a washed silk dress, a sheer shirt It was widely known Lopez was planning floating open to reveal a gray racer tank worn with a pair of cuffed to wear Wang for her jaunt down the aisle. silk shorts. According to industry sources, what wasn’t But as the collection continued, this wide-open, dreamy quality so known is that Wang designed two custom lurched into one major reality of even the best road trip — monotony. dresses — her made-to-order numbers can There were many variations on the theme as Karan sent out an array easily run $50,000 — about 10 bridesmaids of studded chiffon dresses, slouchy suits, skinny knits, motorcycle dresses and a mother-of-the-bride dress. It pants and bomber jackets rounded out by python accessories. But could not be learned whether Lopez was ever even when the splashes of electric color flooded the runway by the expected to pay for her custom-made gowns, end of the show with a group of swimsuits and chiffon cover-ups, the nor what she, or Wang, plan to do with the once fresh and vivid dream had dissipated. dresses now that the wedding is off. A Wang spokeswoman declined to com- Betsey Johnson: Heavens to Betsey! Fashion’s party girl threw one ment about the wedding. However, a source helluva fete Monday afternoon. The show was Bacchanalian Betsey close to the situation said total expenses — at her best, inspired by the over-the-top glitz and glam, feathers and including fabric and labor — surrounding the spangles of a hip-hop video. And not so concerned with who’s where affair could have set the bridal firm back in the front row, Betsey dispensed with it all together, opting instead somewhere close to $500,000. for the more social, chatty set-up of Cabaret-style tables — According to another industry source, the champagne included to really get everybody in a good mood. As for the clothes, only she could get away with a sheer negligee that read “Fluffer.” And, raunching up that infamous shot of Barbra Streisand from “The Owl and the Pussycat,” she sent out a pink nightie printed with “Job” and two hands over the bust. But beyond the kitsch, there were enough fun, wearable looks to fill a party- hopper’s closet for months — a feathered, cropped top paired with skinny jeans; a stream of baby-doll dresses in lemon-yellow lace, pink gingham, reworked men’s shirts or ruffled chiffons; a less-revealing, but still sexy French maid’s apron, and striped numbers that riffed on Eighties punk. She sent out skintight “Iggy Pop” jeans with bondage straps from calf to ankle and sprinkled in her signature slipdresses, shrunken Ts and miniskirts. As always, she had one hand in fashion, the other in mischief with a devil-faced knit top. And while she called the collection “Guys love B.J.,” it’s a sure thing that the girls, who’ll be zipping about town in her cheeky frocks, will love her even more. What could have been: Lopez, as Gertrude Anne Klein: Charles Nolan may have departed Anne Steiney, in a Reem Acra wedding gown, weds Klein for the greener pastures of politics, but his Affleck’s character Ollie Trink in next year’s replacement, Michael Smaldone, is still toughing it out in the fashion world. And that was pretty obvious Miramax release “Jersey Girl.” in his debut runway collection for Anne Klein Tuesday morning. No doubt about Smaldone’s message — women should be sexy. Maybe sexy edging on trashy. Out came his power-playing dames with teased hair, seamed stockings and stilettos, of course, but they had to take a wobbly trip down a runway, which for some bizarre reason was covered with wood chips. Smaldone, who had previously designed the AK Anne Klein collection, put his sexpots in slim, low-cut dresses with corset belts, sharp- fitting suits, crisp white shirts with pencil skirts and even the odd, slouchy bathrobe coat. And for the truly daring — and these girls dare — he offered the Anne Klein bra (oh, what a custom-designed wedding bands by Garrard are thought!) to stick under everything, but always remaining in their un-fingerprinted glory. While on view. Pants, on the other hand, were cut a figure could not be learned, the rings easily loose and wide, some with attached ran into the high five figures — or even more. Barbarella corset belts of leather, while As for Lauren, Lopez approached him others were chopped off to walking shorts about outfitting Affleck, his best man and his and paired with a Twenties-inspired beaded ushers for the wedding, as she is reportedly a tank. A lot of the collection was more than a fan of the designer’s collection. Lauren was in nod to -meets-Stevie Nicks, but Smaldone lacks the process of creating tuxedos for 10 men in the finesse and authority to pull it off. the couple’s wedding party and had dis- patched some staff members to California to Yeohlee: As one observer noted, “A rhinestone from Yeohlee? supervise fittings. The bridegroom, generally a Now, that’s news.” Actually, there was a lot of news in this solid size 44, was to wear a specially designed, collection. For starters, Yeohlee does some of the best asymmetrics, custom-made tuxedo, with an estimated retail a theme she handles beautifully, and she sent out a blitz of them. value of $6,000, while the rest of the men, Instead of simply cutting fabrics on the bias, she cut, angled and including Casey Affleck and Matt Damon, pieced together squares, rectangles or triangles into fluid were to wear classic tuxedos from the Purple asymmetric dresses and skirts. And they looked sensational. Label line, each costing about $4,500. Yeohlee ▲ Yeohlee also delivered a series of beautiful brown and black Some in the fashion industry speculated stretch gabardine looks: caftans, shifts and tunics with geometric Wang had canceled her New York runway . These segued into a graceful black-and-white high-slung show to focus on the wedding dress for skirt with a simple cropped turtleneck. Evening was stronger — Lopez. The Wang spokeswoman, however,

▲ Miguel Adrover much stronger — than it has been in her past collections. Gone were said the two events were entirely unrelated the weighty fabrics this designer often favors. In their place, she and that Wang decided to do more intimate used pale gray chiffons — in a variety of lean, crystal-edged dresses; presentations due to her hectic schedule that a tank dress layered over two squares of black silk satin organdy, or includes the launch of several new collec- a shift worn under double layers of chiffon. As for those rhinestones, tions: fine jewelry, silverware, a men’s fra- they were actually crystals inset as crosses on short lime green or grance and a new shoe line. beige dresses. The one misstep — the unflattering, rigid “bell” —Joshua Greene and Eric Wilson dresses, which are better suited for one of her international

sculpted clothing exhibitions than the runway. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 Sporty and There was more than one side of the fashion equation as the spring collections continued, from great-looking

BCBG Max Azria: Max BCBG Max Azria Dana Buchman Azria’s spring collection for BCBG was a stellar combination of girlish charm with easy Linda glamour. The designer new Allard played with fabrics — Ellen mixing soft chiffons, Tracy cotton canvas, york seersucker, jersey and BCBG twill — to provide the Max perfect balance for his Azria beach-loving girl, and his dresses reflected a youthful elegance. As for color, there were vibrant shades such as chartreuse, indigo and a peony pink, but for those who aren’t so bold, rose, cream and soft blue tones turned up. Although the line had a hint of , that, too, should appeal to contemporary girls. For day, the top looks included playful Hawaiian print pants paired with a ruffled bikini top, cute shrunken jackets, retro clam-diggers, plenty of sexy swimwear and eye-catching color-blocked dresses. For evening, Azria showed plenty of ruffles, from full skirts to swirl- detailed dresses, which looked great, but some of the handkerchief gowns and the sequin numbers seemed a bit out of place.

Linda Allard Ellen Tracy: After 40 years spent defining the look of Ellen Tracy, Linda Allard retired in August, and this spring’s collection was her last design effort. It was shown, once again, in the intimate setting of the Bryant Park Linda Hotel restaurant, ILO. There were Allard crisp, white shirts; leather skirts in Ellen milk-chocolate brown with pockets Tracy in the front, and eveningwear in oversized palm tree or poppy prints — the designer’s interpretation of dressed-up safari looks. She also sent out a capsule collection of the sporty line, Company by Ellen Tracy, which featured white denim corset dresses, simple pants and clean-cut jackets. Die-hard Allard fans also should know she already has chosen the fall colors, and new blood will continue her aesthetic next season. Two longtime members of the firm’s design teams were promoted to oversee the collections — Joni Storgion-Knight for Linda Allard Ellen Tracy and Donna McKenzie at Company Ellen Tracy.

Dana Buchman: Sometimes fashion follows art, and this time around, Dana Buchman looked to artists Alexander Calder and Willem DeKooning for inspiration. Their influences surfaced in the black-and-white swirl patterns of the eveningwear, and in the colors of the pantsuits and dresses in bold floral prints. Buchman, in fact, went in for strong colors — such as fuchsia, searing yellow and bright orange — throughout, while maintaining a sense of sophistication perfect for her customer. And, if that wasn’t enough, she debuted her new casual line, db, which is designed to appeal to a wider age range. This collection featured good-looking, lean jeans, denim minis, slim skirts, simple cargo pants and easy, zippered jackets. Buchman has always been interested in creating looks for a range of lifestyles, and now her woman can go from the weekday workplace to a weekend outdoors. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 11 Flirty Generra sporty pieces to those that were femininity personified.

Monique Generra Lhuillier PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DAVID TURNER GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DAVID JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY Dana Buchman Monique Lhuillier Generra: In the Eighties, Generra was a hot junior sportswear label that knew exactly what young women wanted to wear. Now, after the label spent 11 years on the shelf, Public Clothing Co. brought it back this season. Public recruited the talented designer, Tony Melillo, who understands the concept behind Generra and captured it with great success. But these aren’t clothes for a runway. Instead, the company opted to show at the Spike Gallery in Chelsea, where models, both boys and girls, played board games, steered remote-control cars or just hung out in the set of a house. It was all very charming. Melillo worked with superfine cottons and silks and simply piled on layer upon layer of pieces: cute Ts in an assortment of colors, athletic zip-front sweaters, little shorts, a hooded windbreaker, Hawaiian print T-shirts and a cropped hooded sweater. These were all very easy and wearable items, and the designer’s notion is that the clothes can be mixed and matched in any way the customer likes.

Monique Lhuillier: Young glamour — just the words sound celebratory. But then, Monique Lhuillier has plenty to celebrate. The designer, who expanded from bridal into ready-to-wear last season, seems set to establish herself as a force worth reckoning — albeit a gentle force. The collection Lhuillier showed for spring exhibited grace and subtlety, especially in delicately executed tweed jackets embellished with frayed tulle and jewels at the wrists and hem. She also showed charming ingenue dresses, and though some of her grand ballgowns played like brides gone floral, they were still lovely. As for inspiration, though her program notes cited “the grace of the ballerina,” in the suits one could sense pirouetting by. But no matter. Lhuillier is still young and developing her own aesthetic. A girl could do worse than to take her early cues from Karl, and with Saks opening eight in-store boutiques for her this November, she will no doubt get a better handle on what her customers want. 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 Fashion Scoops

SHOW FOLK: If the weekend was all about pop Joel stars, then shows on Monday and Tuesday Grey were all about . Nestled into the front row at DKNY was the songwriter, Carol Bayer Sager, whose credits include the theme song from “Arthur,” “When I Need You,” and, with Burt Bacharach, “That’s What Friends Are For.” Her latest work includes songs in “The Boy from Oz,” which she planned to preview Monday and Tuesday nights, so she decided to catch a show from her Hamptons friend, Donna Karan, during the day, possibly looking for some creative inspiration. “Why not?” she said. “You never know what’s going to inspire you.” Matthew Morrison from “Hairspray” used his night off to go to Marc Jacobs, and at the Bill Blass show on Tuesday were Bob Mackie, who’s no stranger to Broadway as a costume designer, and actor Joel Grey, who said he’s busy preparing for another Emerald City production — the controversial musical, “Wicked,” that explores the early lives of the witches of Oz, based on the novel by Gregory Maguire. Grey plays the wizard. “You’re supposed to be wise to be a wizard,” he said, also looking for fashion inspiration, although by the look of his Dries Van Noten suit, it appeared that Grey has remained up to date. “Any art is inspiring, and fashion is art when at it’s best. It’s like going to a museum.”

CEO SUMMIT: As far as tasty fashion week sightings go, when you’re the co-chairmen of a designer’s competitor, you’re bound to get noticed sitting in the competitor’s front row. So when Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, whose Sportswear Holdings Ltd. acquired Michael Kors this year, turned up at Marc Jacobs, lots of interesting ideas came to mind. Apart from the lower-priced Michael collection they’re launching for Kors, could they be angling for a piece of a possible better line from Marc? Looking to invest in more brands? “Oh, no,” said the ever-social Stroll. “We’re just here for the show.” Besides, they weren’t the only apparel tycoons in the house. Keeping a lower profile was Dan Shamdasani, chief executive officer of Public Clothing Co., owner of Generra and French Cuff and licensee of women’s sportswear.

THEIRA COPA: It’s been a nasty little secret of the front-row trade for years, but revelations this week of celebrity guests for hire have left a lot of tongues wagging, and even more fingers pointing. Such is the case of reports of Lara Flynn Boyle’s request for $25,000 to come to shows. While no one’s denying it happened, her Los Angeles-based publicist said she would have never encouraged such graft, and the calls must have come from Boyle’s modeling reps in New York. “It was not a representative from my company, nor would I ever do that,” said Karynne Tencer, principal of Tencer & Associates, on Tuesday.

RUZOW ALERT: No big surprise that Kellwood Co.’s Stephen L. Ruzow, president of women’s wear, was spotted at ’s show, considering the ongoing talks between de la Renta, Kellwood and J.C. Penney about developing a new collection for the chain, but he also happened to check out Jill Stuart’s show the day before. Kellwood’s made no secret of its interest in acquiring brands, and Jill Stuart — with its hefty sales in Asia — could be an attractive option for the company. And those close to Ron Curtis, president of the brand, said he wouldn’t be adverse to feeling out some offers.

FAMILY TIES: Patty Hearst-Shaw was having a laugh at the Badgley Mischka show because she’d been seated in her daughter, Gillian’s seat. Her friend, Kimberly Rockefeller, occupied Amanda Hearst’s. “People are probably thinking, ‘Oh, Amanda and Gillian look like crap today,’” Hearst-Shaw said. “‘They must have had a rough night last night.’” “Yeah, Amanda and Gillian sure look chubby this morning,” Rockefeller added, laughing. Hearst-Shaw said it would be her only fashion week appearance; Gillian, who just graduated from Georgetown, has been making the rounds. She was front row at DVF but left her second-row seat at the Marc Jacobs show before it started because it was “too hot.” She starts work at the Creative Coalition in October.

HARVARD FANS: While the tents drew the fashion flock and society oohed and aahed around Central Park, a solid chunk of ’s literary set were celebrating Norman Mailer’s 80th birthday downtown. Alums of the Harvard Advocate — the school’s literary magazine, natch — threw a party at agent-editor David Kuhn’s apartment and populated it with a cross-section of the media industrial complex: Harvey Weinstein, Cynthia Nixon, Amy Fine Collins, Conan O’Brien, Michael Wolff, Peter Kaplan and, of course, the guest of honor. Mailer was introduced by Gay Talese, whose classic piece of reporting, “Frank Sinatra Has A Cold,” was just chosen by Esquire as one of the best stories it’s ever published. That happened almost 40 years ago and, apparently, things have gone downhill since. Talese said he thought the last story he wrote seven GENERRA years ago, “Ali in Havana,” was just as good (and just as long), but 10 magazines took a pass. “ Magazine said Fidel Castro didn’t sound like himself,” Talese exclaimed. “Jayson Blair is telling me about accuracy!…Now I’m sounding bitter.” Not at all. And COMING SPRING 2004 Esquire eventually published that one, too. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 13 A Different Drummer Ulterior Motifs Marching to your own beat takes chutzpah, and these daring NEW YORK — While straightforward pretty clothes are playing an important role on the spring runways, there are other notions designers are willing to take up the challenge. afoot. Some shows, for example, feature highly unusual themes, including such outré influences as the writings of Friedrich Michael and Hushi Atil Zero Nietzsche and the life of a notorious criminal. Who ever said that Kutoglu by fashion was all fluff? Maria For starters, Patrick Rzepski’s muse this season was the Cornejo recently deceased murderer Myra Hindley, labeled “the most hated woman in Britain” by that country’s tabloid press. Rzepski’s show, called, “We Miss You Myra,” opened with a look inspired by a dress worn by one of Hindley’s victims, whose body was found buried in the ground. The designer’s version was a tattered, strapless fuchsia number, which, he reports, was interred in his parents’ backyard for optimal effect. The new disturbing theme of the show aside, Rzepski’s work this season shows admirable improvement. The silhouettes were more polished and straightforward, with great skirts, strapless york pintucked and pleated dresses and a beautiful floor-length backless evening number. Meanwhile, as if there weren’t enough pornographic imagery this week, Mary Jo Diehl’s second collection for House of Diehl featured preachers making obscene gestures, masturbating models and Amanda Lepore as the Virgin Mary draped in a candy-colored LV . Diehl, who studied philosophy at Wesleyan, asked her audience to think beyond good and evil, apparently à la the German philosopher, and featured a tag line “The Designer Is Dead.” While the tube dresses, Patrick Yigaligal Bahar trousers made of sewn-together Azrouel Korçan Rzepski button-down shirts and tops made of measuring tape were not exactly retail fare, the show was amusing. Elsewhere, although Manuel Fernandez might seem eccentric, it was clear that his inventiveness doesn’t Manuel come at the cost of craft or Fernandez cohesion. This was a show Renaldo with a message: black-and- white, yet festive; full of ideas, and simmering with sexy shapes and details. Such looks as short white leather kimonos, bikinis under black perforated cardigans or maillots accented with flowers may not be practical, but they Alistair sure are fun. The designer’s Carr Spanish spirit surfaced in skinny, matador-inspired pedal-pushers; white jackets with bright hand-embroidered Michael and Hushi: Michael Sears and Hushi collection, it looks as if Kutoglu is headed in the flowers; fringed scarf skirts, Mortezaie have long been inspired by Jennie right direction. and sheer peasant tops. Livingston’s 1990 film, “Paris Is Burning,” At Renaldo, designer documenting the lives of the highly creative gay Zero by Maria Cornejo: It’s not often that you come Renaldo Barnette may have men who design costumes for and compete in drag across a young talent who creates clothes that are just shown his first collection, balls. Much like the men in the movie, the pair are individual, well-made and wearable, but Maria but he has clearly been on or accustomed to bringing their elaborate visions to Cornejo fits the bill. For her label, Zero, Cornejo sent Lars behind the scenes for years. life with precious few resources. But out of out a small spring collection of minimalistic looks He was at Anne Klein for Andersson struggle can arise real originality as well as beauty. with geometric constructions that had an Annelore some time, assisted at Tuleh In that something-from-nothing vein, the duo architectural quality. This might sound tricky, but it and Nicole Miller, and for 12 years has been teaching design worked humble materials to glamorous effect in wasn’t. Among the best looks were a group of and fashion art at the Fashion Institute of Technology. His witty looks, such as a perfectly chic Fifties-style cropped obi jackets, slim, high-waisted skirts, an broad experience was reflected in his confident 25-piece party dress with a bodice made from a nylon assortment of wrap tops and a sexy dress with a long spring collection, sanely priced — to retail from $120 to messenger bag. And who can deny the brilliance of a sash that tied in back — all of which are sure to be $500 — in simple shapes with lots of charm. Shirtjackets or black-and-white jacket and skirt crafted from a hits in her Mott Street boutique. trenchcoats looked terrific over miniskirts in chintz-finished tracksuit with a sensor tag as the zipper pull? black wool. The best jersey looks were the sportiest: long- Most of their silhouettes were tight and Yigal Azrouel: Azrouel, who showed at his boutique, sleeved shirt rompers or minidresses and a floor-length polo- ultrafeminine, as in slim pencil skirts, nipped sent out a collection packed with plenty of sexy shirt version. “I still like the simplicity of a T-shirt,” Barnette jackets and curve-hugging dresses. They continued appeal. But he still wants his ladies to look like said. “If minimalism is dead, it died with me.” the upside-down top idea from last season, this ladies for every hour of the day, so there was no Speaking of the notion that less is more, however, and time with a crisp men’s oxford shirt flipped and denim here. The designer, who’s known for his considering the impossible schedule this week, such items as worked into a sexy blouse. While this sort of printed jerseys, took a different tack for spring with Miho Nikado’s charming sailor swimsuit, pretty tennis dress and approach might not be a retailer’s dream, the glamorous, body-conscious silk charmeuse dresses; cute box-pleated minidress don’t really add up to enough to workmanship and thought that goes into it are sharply sculpted jackets; a sizzling strapless dress; merit a formal show. evident to anyone who takes a moment to look. smart pants, and a beautiful slipdress with intricate Mary Ping, on the other hand, sent out a tight, artistic This is one design team that deserves to move lace insets. collection of Ts and T-shirt dresses, primarily in cottons and silks. beyond the realm of editorial darlings and into the The dolman-sleeved tops, cuffed shorts and cutout dresses were world of retail favorites. Bahar Korçan: Watching the parade of sliced, shredded all strong, although Ping did have a bit of a Hussein Chalayan Tarzan-cum-Jane clothes worn by models who were moment. Atil Kutoglu: This season, Atil Kutoglu softened his bandaged, greased, dusted with seeds and taking their Gen Art was awash in sponsors to celebrate its 10th usually tough, masculine lines into unquestionably job very seriously, even a fashionista might ask, “Who anniversary. Lars Andersson had plenty of interesting knit tops sexy ones. He did it by softening shoulders, creating on earth would wear that?” The clothes themselves with strings draped into a scalloped effect, and Alistair Carr flirtier shapes and adding sheer or bare touches. were definitely frivolous, fun and sexy. What was showed his oversized lavender ruffled jacket. But Annelore stole The best styles were a pleated camel silk minidress; notable was the variety of terrific pants, especially the show with cute skirts and cross-back pieces that had a retro a one-shouldered silver maillot, and a green those that combined dressed-up and dressed-down flair. Overall, these young designers may have a long road crushed-leather trenchcoat worn with fluid, elements. Consider the striped beige tuxedo pants; a ahead, but as is usually the case with Gen Art’s roster, the embroidered chiffon pants. At times, things got too layered chiffon and organza pair; plum pinwale future looks bright. gimmicky, as with the tricky Turkish pants and corduroys with a denim waist peeking out, or the good- assorted asymmetric looks. But judging by this looking capris, including a jolly green jumpsuit. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA AND DAVID TURNER AND DAVID MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 Wedding Belles: Princess Stephanie, Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen…Suzy has the Scoop

on “Baywatch” beauty Brooke Burns, 25. The two have been frolicking for photographers in Costa Rica where Brooke is making a movie. Demi hasn’t met Brooke but she has told Bruce that she’d be happy to. Perhaps they should attend the opening of Brooke’s new movie, “Hand in Hand,” a surefire way to get a little extra attention, something they all need desperately. ● Kate Moss and her lover, Dazed and Confused magazine editor Jefferson Hack, the father of her 11- month- old daughter, have sent handwritten invitations to their wedding with not one but four different “save the dates” written in for November. It sounds as though they were probably scared off over the horror created by you know who’s wedding. It’s supposed to be a state secret — sure it is — but it’s rumored that Kate’s friend, Stella McCartney, is designing the dress. Time will tell. In other Kate news, she has decided to close down her design business called Burn Ltd., which she founded three years ago. Let’s just say it didn’t exactly set the rag trade on fire. ● As for Stella McCartney, she left thousands of white Jane Seymour roses as a parting gift SEYMOUR: MARK SULLIVAN/WIREIMAGE; MOORE:ALBERT L. ORTEGA/WIREIMAGE;PRINCESS STEPANIE: STEPHANE CARDINALE/PEOPLE AVEN/CORBIS STEPANIE: L. ORTEGA/WIREIMAGE;PRINCESS MOORE:ALBERT SEYMOUR: MARK SULLIVAN/WIREIMAGE; for the villagers on the Scottish Isle of Bute, where she married publisher Alasdhair Willis. She also left dozens of hot water bottles for the staff of the castle, someone said to help them get over the aches and pains caused by her wedding guests. But that wouldn’t be very

Suzy nice of her because Demi Moore they included her By Aileen Mehle father, Sir Paul McCartney, his wife, Make way for the Royals, the Serenes and into the night. Glorious Food did the glorious Heather, Pierce the Odd Movie Star, and I do mean odd. food and Philip Baloun did the glorious decor, Brosnan, Hugh Grant, The Spanish Institute, which fosters dark velvet tablecloths, great towering birch Kate Moss, Rod eye® warm and friendly relations between the trees as centerpieces and miles of clinging ivy Stewart, Liv Tyler, U.S. and Spain, olé, has a huge and really with a life of its own. Chris Martin, very exciting announcement to make. On Oh, and Mayor Bloomberg dropped in. He’d Gwyneth Paltrow and Nov. 19, Her Majesty Queen Sofia of Spain is arriving been to several parties before with, of course, Madonna and Guy. in New York to be the dazzling guest of honor at the Diane Taylor in a smart gray suit. The mayor ● Institute’s Gold Medal Gala at the Plaza celebrating its kissed the girls and made them laugh and made Nancy Kissinger 50th anniversary. And on that very night, the Institute a little speech and read a little toast written by Princess Stephanie and Elaine Langone will officially announce its new name, Queen Sofia Frances Fitzgerald and went on his way. You are the chairmen of Spanish Institute! It’s a great and deserved name, as would have loved it. The Animal Medical anyone who knows anything at all about the gracious The Women’s Committee of the Central Park Center’s Top Dog Gala at the Waldorf on Sept. 23 where Sofia will be only too happy to tell you. She will Conservancy was responsible for this big night chaired the famous financier, Ace Greenberg, and his wife, Kathy, receive the Fiftieth Anniversary Commemorative Gold by Norma Dana and Eleanore Kennedy, who worked will be honored. Emilia Fanjul Pfeifler and Page Hershey Medal at the gala and Dr. Fernando Aleu, the on the parties for literally a year. are the junior chairs and the committee members and Institute’s chairman, will be honored with a 2003 Gold ● supporters include Pauline Pitt, Cynthia Phipps, Lydia Medal. He has done absolute oodles for the center Reports out of Germany say that 38-year-old Princess Hearst-Shaw, Karen Clark and Jane Seymour. Bill Tansey over the years, literally working his fingers to the Stephanie of Monaco married her lover, Adans Peres, a will drape the ballroom with mint and lavender silk hueso, the dear man. 29-year-old circus acrobat, somewhere in the panels and the gardens on the table will spout orchid ● Rhinelands over the weekend. Adans is not just another water. A highlight of the evening will be a video of Pasha, It rained cats and dogs and a whole lot of bullfrogs acrobat, you understand. He’s a fifth-generation a young dachshund that was paralyzed until she had on Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang’s highly touted Light Portuguese one. Those who know say that that’s the best surgery at the Medical Center. President Bush’s niece, Cycle celebrating Central Park’s 150th anniversary kind. Such leaps and twists and jumps you’ve never seen Lauren Bush, who we all know is both an animal lover Monday night. So the pillars of light that were the like. They met when she gave him an award at The and a vegetarian, will walk out Pasha with her owner at supposed to shoot up a thousand feet high didn’t quite International Circus Festival of Monte Carlo, where they the end of film to what is hoped will be a standing ovation. make it, to say nothing of the havoc the rain wreaked really love the action under the big top. ● on the Grucci’s firework display, which sort of sizzled Adans comes from a famous family of clowns and Gisele Bündchen is so excited over the news that and then fizzled. But there were 150 parties all over circus artists. His brother is also an acrobat and his she will make her movie debut in a remake of the 1998 New York to celebrate the great and glorious park, mother was a flamenco dancer. This is Stephanie’s French comedy, “Taxi.” The will play a which many consider the lifeblood of the city. Some of second foray into the circus. You remember she was bank robber pursued by a speed demon of a New York the best parties of the night were given at the new recently involved with a married Swiss circus owner taxi driver named Belle, played by Queen Latifah, and Mandarin Oriental Ballroom, in the AOL building by called Franco Knie. Her father, Prince Rainier, and her her NYPD partner, played by Jimmy Fallon of such hostesses of note as Patricia Patterson, Gail sister, Princess Caroline, are said to be upset, nay, “Saturday Night Live.” Gisele is still flashing that Hilson, the Rand Araskogs, the Donald Millers, the furious, but her brother, Prince Albert is supposedly $150,000 diamond ring from Leonardo DiCaprio, who Lee Gammills and the Joseph Missetts, inviting such more understanding. Monaco’s Pink Palace will only is supposed to propose marriage for the second time guests as Norma Hess, chic in black; the Philip Millers; say that they “believed a ceremony had taken place this summer, but she’s not sure he’s the one. “I get on the Roberto de Guardiolas; the Coleman Burkes; but there would be no further official comment as the well with him,” she says. “But I’m not rushing things. I Nicole and Derek Limbocher, Mai and Ridgely wedding was a private matter.” Some private. That want a man who loves me and supports me. I’m still Harrison; Boaz Mazor; Alyne Massey; Susan Burke; place hasn’t been private for a hundred years. looking for my own Prince Charming.” Maybe Leo’s not Ambassador Nancy Brinker, home from Hungary and ● ready to walk down the aisle just yet, either. The two happy to be; Thorun Wathne; Mario Buatta; Hilary Demi Moore is encouraging Bruce Willis, her ex, to have been off and on for more than three years. At the Geary with Wilbur Ross; Jamie Figg, and on and on settle down and focus on one woman. So he’s focusing moment, off is looking pretty good.

16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 Fashion’s Move to the Middle By Lisa Lockwood

NEW YORK — Midrange apparel no longer suffers from a “can’t get no re- spect” syndrome. As retailers like Target and J.C. Penney are trading up with lines such as , Mossimo, Bisou Bisou and Parallel, and top name designers such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and are trading down, the midtier market appears to be losing its “middle-child” complex. “I do think when you look at what’s hap- pened the last couple of years [economical- ly], there’s a natural tendency to tighten up and trade down,” said Terry Lundgren, chief executive officer of Federated Department stores. “Now things appear to be stabilizing gradually and consumers are returning to their desire to be back into buying fashion again and the quality levels they’ve grown accustomed to. [Better ven- dors] are creating windows of opportuni- ties for stores like ours.” The retail landscape has shifted and stores find themselves competing for cus- tomers with not only their own channel of distribution, but also those higher and lower than them. Department store retail- ers, which have seen their market share slowly erode at the expense of national chains’ promotional activities, have react- ed by offering their own frequent sale days and discounts. Additionally, an injection of Above: Isaac Mizrahi at Target is bringing designer looks to the mainstream. Below: Bisou Bisou has an exclusive deal with J.C. Penney Co. fashion merchandise to the mass market and stores like Gap has spurred depart- ment stores to bring more style to their opening price ranges. “What’s happened is the consumer has changed. She’s reacted very favorably to lower-priced and lower-priced designers and brands,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at Port Washington-based market research firm NPD Fashionworld. “The consumer does- n’t care if Mossimo is $100 or $20. They recognize the name. “The pie has gotten smaller and cut up into more pieces,” said Cohen. “The upper- end market is trading down and competing with department stores, and mass stores are competing against department stores. They’re marketing upward. You have the squeeze in the middle. The same con- sumers shopping at moderate-price depart- ment stores are finding the same things at the chains and value stores for less.” Cohen pointed out that in department stores, designer apparel accounts for 7 percent of the business; private label, 35 percent; national brands, 52 percent, and 6 percent, other. “With fashion trends becoming less important, sameness has caused the re- tailer to compete up and down the chan- nel. They have to get into a price war be- cause the lower market has similar fash- ions. It may not be the same quality, but it said. “The middle market has suddenly Signature and Realities, respectively, for Axcess lines; Jones’ Gloria Vanderbilt, has the same looks,” he said. come alive in the last three to five years, spring retailing. Evan Picone, Norton McNaughton and “There’s a new respectability for the mostly at the cost of department stores and ● Department stores are aligning them- L.E.I. divisions, and Kellwood’s Sag middle market,” agreed R. Fulton McDon- the upper end of the market and low end of selves with brands to give them exclusivity, Harbor line and licenses and its new Izod ald, president of International Business the market. You’ve got a quiet trading up.” such as Federated’s deal with American women’s division. Development Corp., a management consult- Perhaps the best example of the move Rag, and beefing up their private label of- “There is a lot of competition for this ing firm here. “Wal-Mart is the biggest com- to the middle can be exemplified by Isaac ferings, such as I.N.C. and Alfani at Macy’s, better customer,” added Lundgren, ac- pany in the world. The high end of the mar- Mizrahi’s new line for Target, which is and Ideology and ie. at May Co., to in- knowledging all the new entrants for ket can’t scoff at the low end of the market. being distributed to 1,148 doors. In addi- crease sales productivity and margins. spring. “I think it’s fantastic news. It al- It’s respectable and everybody’s impressed. tion, Target opened a temporary outpost at ● Mass merchandisers and chain lows our buyer to focus on the products When the low end is highly respectable, this month, directly stores, such as Target, Wal-Mart, Kohl’s and what’s right for the customer.” then the middle is very attractive.” across the street from the Saks Fifth and J.C. Penney, are trading up their mer- Lundgren said Federated plans to be McDonald said the consumer doesn’t Avenue flagship. The Target store has been chandise mix with more nationally known very involved with all the new brands, even distinguish between price cate- mobbed since it opened. The collection in- moderate brands, chipping away at de- which will “squeeze the moderate price gories any longer. cludes classics such as trenchcoats, denim partment stores’ moderate business. They points of apparel” at the company’s units. “We’ve almost done away with price skirts and turtleneck sweaters, priced from continue to sign exclusive deals with “We know we’ll have more emphasis on lines. The end user will shop at Wal-Mart $9.99 to $69.99. Its TV ad campaign touts: brands and celebrities to differentiate the better sportswear category. How it at the same time she’ll shop at Saks. “Luxury for Everyman, Everywhere.” their assortments from their competitors, spaces out depends on where we get sales Historically, you were a Saks customer or Among other developments are: such as Mossimo and Isaac Mizrahi for productivity.” He said, “[The] only way to a Macy’s or Target customer. Today you’ll ● Designers such as Ralph Lauren, Target; Bisou Bisou and BCBG Group’s run the business successfully is [to maxi- shop at Target one day and Sears the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger are all of- Parallel for Penney’s; Thalia for Kmart, mize] sales and profitability per square next day and Saks the next,” he said. fering new better lines for spring 2004 de- and George, Faded Glory and Levi Strauss foot. The price-value relationship has to “It used to be the high end of the busi- partment store selling, and Michael Kors Signature brand for Wal-Mart. be demonstrable. Customers will see that ness was where the excitement was. Now will develop a better line for fall 2004. ● To keep their fingers in each of the and respond to that.” there’s too much duplication at the upper ● Multibranded firms such as Jones channels, multibranded firms are expand- Most importantly, Lundgren said the key end of the market. It opened an opportuni- Apparel Group and Inc. ing their moderate offerings, such as Liz to these lines is that the product sells ty for Kohl’s and Penney’s,” McDonald are launching new better lines, Jones Claiborne’s Crazy Horse, Villager and through at regular price and then at first WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 17

markdown. “That’s what will keep this tice. Mossimo groupings on display there ate sportswear, said, “The customer’s be- A spring look growing. My whole business with these included an $89.99 caramel leather blaz- come smarter on what the fashion trends from Lauren new collections is that they’re priced to sell er, nudging the brand into Gap’s price are right now.” Magazines, TV and, of by Ralph and clear at the first markdowns,” he said. territory for a casual jacket. Mizrahi’s course, the Internet have helped speed the Lauren, Lundgren said Hilfiger’s new H line will line also had suede jackets and silk flight of trends to consumers, pressuring re- produced by be sold exclusively at Federated’s headquar- shirts, priced slightly higher than the tailers and vendors to be up to the minute. Polo Ralph ter stores such as Macy’s, Rich’s-Macy’s, Cherokee merchandise hung nearby. “She’s buying newness and novelty that Lauren. Lazarus-Macy’s, Goldsmith-Macy’s and Bon- Like their midtier competitors, Wal-Mart maybe is updating her existing wardrobe. Macy’s. And he’s optimistic about the new and Kmart employ a “good, better, best” She’s starting to understand in moderate Lauren by Ralph Lauren. “The Lauren philosophy, offering entry-level garments, a things that she hasn’t necessarily under- customer is a very loyal customer. It’s still midrange and saving the most design-for- stood before — wraps, double layers,” said a very big business with us. We’ll continue ward pieces for the top-priced “best” range. Fish, about the moderate customer. “She’s to buy the Lauren product,” he said. In recent seasons, both Wal-Mart and highly demanding. She wants everything Lundgren said these new better lines Kmart have added to their “best” assort- and she doesn’t want to pay for it.” are well timed. “They’re more aimed at ment. Kmart brought in the Thalia Sodi Susan Metzger, president of the Jones the fashion-oriented consumer. Our con- collection, which included pricier items New York Signature brand, noted, “In sumer is definitely looking for emphasis such as a $44.99 denim-and-leather vest. terms of department stores there is an em- on fashion and quality and will be truly It’s also expanding Joe Boxer, a premium- phasis on better because of the competi- ready to trade up,” he said. For example, priced lifestyle assortment that has been tive nature of the more moderate busi- he believes they will be willing to trade the company’s most successful launch to nesses. So they are looking to expand their up 10 percent for a jacket. date, according to a spokeswoman. better floor space because they feel that Another area that will be growing at With great fanfare, Wal-Mart brought this is the opportunity to survive. Federated is the store’s private label in Levi’s Strauss Signature brand. At $23 “We’re all very excited and energized lines, such as Alfani, I.N.C. and Charter a pop for bottoms, the denim is a big-tick- by a lot of what’s happening in better,” Club. “That is the success story of our et item compared with Faded Glory, Wal- she added. “That’s going to bring some- better business,” he noted. Mart’s long-running house brand which thing back to the floor that hasn’t been Lundgren said the designer business generally sells jeans at $9.99 to $12.99. there really since Lauren launched [ini- is what everyone loves and enjoys, but it Which is not to say Wal-Mart is walk- tially in 1996].” caters to only 2 percent of the population. ing away from the $4.99 shirts that built Some industry observers attribute the “There’s substantial business being done its empire. Company executives have rush to the better market to the Jones-Polo on the better level. It does 20 times more been vocal about their commitment to Ralph Lauren dispute and the shake-out business than designer,” he said. the entry-level price point, citing a signif- they anticipate. With Polo cutting back on Federated, which generates more than icant proportion of their customers who some of its department distribution by $15 billion in volume, does more than weeding out the more promotional Jones New $13 billion with its Macy’s, Rich’s, stores, manufacturers are maneuver- York will Lazarus, Goldsmith’s and Bon-Ton di- ing to take over some of that desirable launch its visions. Bloomingdale’s does about $2 real estate in the better departments. Jones billion in sales. “It was a little bit of a spark point,” Exclusivity still remains a key goal said Arnold Aronson, managing direc- Signature for department store retailers. tor of retail strategies at Kurt Salmon better Robert Jezowski, executive vice Associates, about the Polo-Jones dis- collection president and general merchandise pute. But, he added, “It’s a zone where for spring. manager of women’s ready-to-wear at people want to shop. There’s a price- Here, a Macy’s East, said the key is having value-fashion equation that makes it a spring something that not every other store in very compelling area for customers. style. the mall has. “We don’t need three That’s where stores want to be.” stores in the mall having the same As designer prices have escalated, line,” he said. and bridge became very expensive, He said Lauren’s distribution will better-price sportswear began looking be more selective, and he saw the very attractive again, he said. “The de- Calvin Klein Collection line “and it re- signer area got less popular because ally looks good.” He also noted H you couldn’t justify the prices. We’re in looks terrific. All these introductions, a deflationary mode and times are said Jezowski, “are good for the better tough, so things squeeze down,” said sportswear business. A lot of receipt Aronson. He also pointed out that com- dollars are up for grabs.” panies have the ability to source more He noted that some vendors could efficiently and economically in foreign get squeezed out based on product places, so they’re able to give con- and price-value relationships. “I want sumers “a bigger bang for the buck.” to be the most productive per square But Aronson believes that brands foot as we can possibly be. I want to would much rather sell in department trade up as best we can,” he said. Gap is turning around its fortunes in the midtier market. stores than mass merchandisers. Reconfiguring the better floor “is “Department stores have put more going to be a challenge,” said Jezowski, live paycheck to paycheck. emphasis on better. They have a strangle- adding Macy’s is planning an increase in Vendors acknowledge that each of the hold on brands. Brands don’t want to go better sportswear and noting some of the channels of distribution is getting a fash- into Penney’s and Kohl’s. Jones has deriv- heavily distributed moderate brands will ion overhaul. ative lines in that channel,” he said. be vulnerable. He noted “lower” better Stephen Ruzow, president of women’s “If you can afford department store merchandise could be moved to the mod- wear at Kellwood Co., observed, “What prices — which are always on sale — you Tommy erate floors. “We have to continually look we’re seeing now is a lot more fashion at can find a better value and assortment than Hilfiger will at dollars per square foot and see what’s the mass level, be it George for Wal-Mart, you can at the mass market,” said Aronson. launch “H” most productive,” said Jezowski. “It’s my Isaac Mizrahi for Target or Joe Boxer for Andrew Jassin, managing director of exclusively goal to trade up our better sportswear de- Kmart.” This trend has been accompanied the Jassin O’Rourke Group, believes the this spring partment and get as much higher average by a fashion boost at the national chains top designers have acknowledged that at Federated unit price out of the door.” such as Penney’s, Sears and Kohl’s. there’s a lot of money to be made in the Department Another advantage to all the new bet- However, Ruzow said the department better area. “The brand owners, Ralph Stores. ter offerings is a larger selection. stores aren’t shirking away from the zone. Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan, “We have a lot more to choose from. “The department stores are not sitting realize the biggest available market is still We can be more discriminating and focus back and letting business go away,” he in the middle zones,” said Jassin. “Calvin more on the product,” said Jezowski. In said. “There is a proliferation of fashion at Klein and Ralph Lauren make more addition to Calvin Klein, H, Lauren and the mass market, there’s an equal amount money with broader distribution. It does- Jones Signature, “Ben Sherman, Perry of new offerings in the department store.” n’t pirate the designer part of the brand. I Ellis and Anne Klein are all brands that By way of example, Ruzow pointed to Izod think at the end of the day, the old method could be expanded,” he said. women’s wear, which will be launched in of developing umbrella brands is a very But it’s not only department stores November at May Department Stores. expensive method to do business. You do moving toward the middle — mass retail- Angela Ahrendts, executive vice presi- create a brand franchise. It probably can ers also are on the move, hiring design dent of Liz Claiborne Inc., attributed much occur in the better and bridge zone.” teams and bolstering in-house sourcing of the upheaval in the apparel world to “a So which lines will be squeezed out? capabilities in order to make more so- lack of newness in the better sectors in the “The private label brands [will be phisticated garments. According to in- department stores and a tremendous squeezed out],” predicted Cohen. “In the dustry analysts, it is part of a broader amount of newness coming up underneath market, the power of the brand is very im- campaign to coax some of the mass chan- in the moderate chains. That is forcing portant. A lot of the private label will be nel’s more affluent customers — who change because the business has been rethought. Some midlevel guys and less can’t resist a bargain on gardening sup- lackluster,” she noted, adding stores need important companies will feel the brunt. plies or tennis balls — into the apparel to have a point of differentiation to com- Someone may be a Calvin brand store and department. As the thinking goes, those mand higher prices for their goods. another a Ralph brand store. Stores in customers may respond to a slightly more Retailers last year began the call for dif- the mall will have to differentiate. There expensive garment, made from real silk ferentiation in an effort to drive traffic, she may be some trimming down of all these or leather and seasoned with a pinch of said, noting some department stores will businesses, but they’ll still be important.” novelty, than a bare-bones, basic T-shirt. be trading up to combat the increased com- — With contributions from A Target in Somerville, Mass., for ex- petitiveness of the national chain retailers. Evan Clark, New York, and ample, recently put the theory into prac- Lynne Fish, president of Jones’ moder- Katherine Bowers, Boston 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

By Samantha Conti Old and new Birmingham. BIRMINGHAM, England — Selfridges has unveiled a sparkling pleasure dome in the center of this gray-toned city, pushing the boundaries of retail- ing, department store architecture and sensory experiences. The much-anticipated, $64 million store, which opened for business two weeks ago, is a jarring sight, looming over England’s second-largest city like a big, friendly spaceship that’s just touched down from planet fashion. “It’s the first time for decades that we’ve been able to design a store from scratch, both inside and out,” said Selfridges chief executive Peter Williams, on the train from London to Birmingham, the day before the opening. “We see this building as part of a great department store tradition — Bloomingdale’s in New York and Selfridges on Oxford Street — where the architecture is a perma- nent billboard for the business.” The new Selfridges, which is expected to gener- ate annual sales of about $126 million within three years, is part of Birmingham’s newly refurbished Bullring shopping center. The center, which was renovated at a cost of nearly $800 million, also boasts a new Debenhams department store, Nike, Zara and Topshop and will soon see Gap, H&M and French Connection units. The four-level, 270,000 square-foot store is built TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY on a hillside, so there are entrances on almost every which houses the food hall, children’s wear and home collections. level. The pink, dark blue and white food hall, with its cloud-like light The feminine curves and glistening skin of the fixtures spun from white wire, is a foodie’s wish-come-true with new store are the brainchildren of Jan Kaplicky crater-shaped bowls spilling over with candy, tables stacked with and Amanda Levete, the co-principals of Future Oreo boxes and Leonidas chocolates and a whiff of fresh bread and Systems, the London-based architecture firm cheese in the air. famous for its dreamy, whimsical designs, includ- The hall boasts 10 eating counters serving up dishes including ing the Marni and Comme des Garçons stores in Beef Wellington, Thai green chicken and dim sum. The feel is cool New York, Tokyo, Paris, Milan and London. and futuristic, a place where Judy Jetson might stop for a bite. The Selfridges store’s deep blue exterior, with its There is no doubt this is retail-as-theater — the concept preached bulbous corners and gently curving facade, is cov- by Vittorio Radice, the former chief executive of Selfridges who ered with 15,000 spun aluminum discs that glisten left to join Marks & Spencer and head its growing home division in the sunlight. At night, the building is flooded with earlier this year. blue light from the streetlamps. “It’s the same theater production as the Oxford Street store — “Everything about it is organic — it looks like it but this is the 2003 version,” said Radice, who attended the open- could come from the sea or from nature generally, ing party last week. “It’s a dream, it’s amazing. There is nothing and why not? The people who will shop there are else like it in the world.” not box shaped,” said Kaplicky. Furthering the Architects Nick Eldridge and Piers Smerin, who worked on store’s design link to fashion, he said its exterior Villa Moda in , designed the young design, books and tech- was inspired by a Paco Rabanne chain mail dress. nology floor on the next level up. The feel there is fluid and He sees the exterior as a curtain — a backdrop for inspired by an industrial warehouse with displays that can be the city — and a foil for Birmingham’s endless vista changed in a flash. Clothes, including Adidas Originals, Gorgeous of gray, industrial buildings. Couture, Miss Sixty, Diesel and Levis, are displayed on packing But, in Kaplicky’s view, that is about to change. pallets and conveyor belts that can be moved easily around the He’s convinced the iconic postcard from The crisscross escalators. open-plan floor. Birmingham will now be one that bears a picture of In the technology area, the designers lined the walls with black the new Selfridges, not of its factories and ware- foam — the kind normally found in photographers’ cases — and houses. Indeed, the London-based home fabrics covered the floor with green rubber — the sort that’s used in a designer Martin Waller, who saw the new store dur- children’s playground. An interactive walkway that burps and ing its debut week, went so far as to say that moans weaves its way across the floor. Selfridges will do for Birmingham what the Eiffel Stanton Williams designed the third level, which is all clean Tower did for Paris. “Everybody has a nice, plain lines and straightforward spaces and houses the beauty, jewelry black T-shirt to sell,” said Waller. “This store is and men’s wear department. This level is, perhaps, the most about more than that: It’s all about diversion and architecturally conventional and houses such men’s collections as entertainment.” Hugo Boss, Maharishi, Sport and D&G. Future Systems also designed the building’s gen- Cibic and Partners, in collaboration with Lees Associates, tly curving interior, which is virtually devoid of designed the top level, which features the women’s designer and right angles and is reminiscent of the Frank Lloyd accessories collections and is a fashion souk. Wright-designed Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum On one side of the open space, table after table is covered in in New York, with its circular white balconies. The shoes, boots and bags by Miu Miu, Jimmy Choo and Marni. Major shop floors curl around a central atrium illuminat- designers like Prada, Gucci and Dior have built their own shop ed by a skylight, while white elevators criss-cross fits along the floor’s outer walls, while the Burberry collection is the central atrium. housed in a shop shaped like a shiny red egg and plunked in the Selfridges chose a different architect to design The “chainmail” exterior. center of the open space. Other designers sold on the floor each floor. Future Systems designed Level One, include Chloé, Alexander McQueen and Missoni, which are dis- played in conventional areas along the edges of the open space. “We wanted the feel to be like a big, exuberant fruit basket,” said Aldo Cibic whose firm also designed Gallery, the restaurant on the floor that looks out over the Bullring. Richard Fitzpatrick, the head of Retailmap, a U.K.-based retail research and consulting firm, called the store’s architecture stun- ning and innovative and said there was no doubt it would spur sales. “A conventionally designed, highly commercial Selfridges store would have done well in Birmingham, but there is no doubt this store will stimulate more sales,” said Fitzpatrick. “I’ve traveled a lot in the U.S. and Europe, and department stores are so same-y, from Kohl’s to Saks Fifth Avenue. This is quirky and inspiring.” As reported, Birmingham isn’t the end of Selfridges’ ongoing retail tale. The retailer is on track to develop future units in England in Bristol, Leeds and Newcastle. Meanwhile, its first Glasgow unit will be designed by the Japanese architect Toyo Ito and is scheduled to open in 2007. It will be the first major com- mission for the architect in the U.K. The new store will have 200,000 square feet of trading space and offer cosmetics, food, apparel and home furnishings. Total investment in the store will be in the region of $144 million. “The site we currently have for the store is derelict. Our inten- tion is to build a new building which will look different from every The Burberry pod. other building in the city. We believe it’s the building that com-

Space-Age Selfridges Lands in Birmingham municates what the business is about,” said Williams. WWDItalyInDepth Pages 19- 30 spring ahead fashion week,Milan’s bestare no pre-spring orders,WWDtakesa doubt puttingthefinaltouches making wavesontherunways. MILAN —With lessthanthree ntercletos Basedon on theircollections. pleated silkblouseandskirt. look atwhichtrendswillbe weeks to the start of Italy’s weeks tothestartofItaly’s Here, from Prada,aflirty,

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KHEPRI STUDIO AT VILLA RICOTTI, ARESE; MODEL: NATALIA COSTA/TAXI MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY STEFANIA SIRILLI/CLOSE-UP; STYLED BY ALESSANDRA ILARI 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

ITALY IN DEPTH the costs of quality

By Alessandra Ilari Prada’s philosophy is if design MILAN — Let’s admit it: Breaking the bank to buy overshadows quality, it’s not a a cool designer accessory, that irresistible object high-quality product. of desire that mixes quirky design, status and high quality, leaves even hard-core fashionistas with a twinge of guilt. But the conviction that those to-die-for stilettos or iconic bag are so well made they’ll last forever helps temper the why-did-I-do-it feeling. Lately, however, as consumers increasingly gripe that their pencil-thin heels fall off, zips break, straps snap and beadings dissolve, perhaps that justification isn’t as valid. The faults are worsened by the fact that prices across Europe are on the upswing, especially since the introduction of the euro. Top- drawer Italian specialty stores admit that recently their biggest headaches have been caused by soaring prices, even for basic items, as consumer spending hits freefall. Tony Tanfani, the owner of the Ancona-based special- ty store Gisa, griped about the lack of creativity in fash- ion today and the high prices. “It’s luxury here and luxury there, but in truth that concept belongs to a few houses like and Hermès,” he said. It leads to the question of whether, in these lackluster economic times, some luxu- Shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti. ry and designer brands are penny-pinching in terms of craftsmanship, materials and embellishments. The answers diverged, with some retailers and suppliers contending brands have cut back on their quality. Luxury industry executives them- selves naturally insist their product quality is bet- ter than ever. Prada Group’s chief Patrizio Bertelli said that if design overshadows quality, then it’s not a high- quality product. “Design is part of the quality process and every single phase of the production chain — the raw materials, the workmanship, the design, etc. — has to respect these standards to create a chain of Cost of Labor in Italy and Other Countries in the Spinning-Weaving Industries for 2002 AVERAGE COST PER OPERATOR HOUR IN U.S. DOLLARS: ITALY $13.93 U.S. $15.13 MEXICO $2.30 $14.22 PORTUGAL $4.78 SPAIN $9.52 BULGARIA $1.01 $1.98 value. That’s our DNA,” said Bertelli. “If you’re producing 12,000 bags, it’s utopian to think TURKEY $2.13 He added that talking about quality extensively seemed that you can control quality,” said , creative odd since it’s something that is a given when it comes to director at , the Gucci Group-owned TUNISIA $1.77 Prada. “It’s our starting point, which explains why some of accessories company known for its craftsmanship. “There MOROCCO $1.89 our styles are considered classic and permeated with tradi- are designers who produce in quantity for customers who tion,” said Bertelli. identify themselves with the bag of the season.” COASTAL $0.69 For others, designs that push the envelope and drive Gianni Amati, co-owner of the five Leam shops in CHINA INLAND $0.41 the market with their quirky styles can justify occasional , confirmed Meier’s view. “Many clients buy the defaults while, for others, diversification and the steep idea behind a shoe because so much of the merchandise SOURCE: WERNER INTERNATIONAL MANAGEMENT CONSULTANTS. COSTS ARE increase in production to satisfy consumer demand have, around looks the same. In any case, no one wants to be CONVERTED FROM EUROS USING EXCHANGE RATES AS OF JUNE 17, 2002. even at luxury levels, made quality dip. ripped off,” said Amati. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 21

craftsmanship and natural texture,’ said Fabrizio Masoni, ceo at Masoni, a high-end tanner based in Santa Croce sull’Arno, which serves Prada and Ferragamo. Changes in Costs Giuseppe Baronti, ceo at Reptilis, a tanner that specializes in exotic snakeskins, sang a similar tune. “Fashion houses are even CHANGE IN COST OF PARTIALLY FINISHED RAW MATERIALS ON THE YEAR: more exigent when it comes to quality by requesting consistency and exclusive textures,” he said. Item 2000 2001 2002 Jan-May 2003 Bertelli said all the hides Prada uses are developed exclu- Yarn 3.6% 2.5% -1.4% -0.9% sively for it. And Gucci’s quality-control departments test hides Fabric 2.0% 4.5% -0.9% -1.2% for different climatic conditions, be it ’s humidity or Tanned skins 3.1% 8.2% 0.8% -0.2% Spain’s scorching sun. Sergio Rossi, the shoe brand owned by Gucci Group, continuously experiments to improve the balance of its shoes and the anchorage of its heels. CHANGE IN PRICES OF FINISHED PRODUCTS ON THE YEAR: “The most evident proof of our quality-oriented investments Item 2000 2001 2002 Jan-May 2003 is the new 172,000-square-foot plant at our headquarters in cen- Knitwear 1.5% 1.5% 1.7% 2.1% tral Italy,” said Gianvito Rossi, the company’s head of interna- tional communications, of the new factory, which also churns Apparel 1.0% 2.0% 3.6% 2.4% out 500,000 pairs of shoes a year, including designs for Gucci and Shoes 3.1% 3.3% 3.6% 2.1% Yves Saint Laurent. Leather goods 0.7% 3.6% 2.7% 2.2% But as consumers demand the latest new thing every six SOURCE: HERMES LAB BASED ON ISTAT DATA Continued on page 29 AMATOSTUDIO

Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta says it’s difficult to maintain quality when mass-producing products. Here, an outfit and accessories from BV.

“Diversification doesn’t imply quality,” added Diego Rossetti, chief executive officer at shoe manufacturer Fratelli Rossetti. Rossetti, who believes that the retail scene is filled with over-priced yet poor quality merchandise, champions hands- on quality control. “It takes years of experience to make a good pair of shoes, it’s not something that you learn overnight. Every day I leave my office to climb five flights of stairs and tour the factory, where I talk to the workers and see how the collections are com- ing along,” said Rossetti, whose father started making shoes for Gucci in the Sixties. Diversification has led to a greater reliance by fashion houses on their suppliers, according to Carlo Sironi, the ceo at Finproject, a top level sole manufacturer. “The fashion brands [staff] have less techni- cal expertise so they rely on our knowledge. They seem to be pouring their attention into style because brand products have shorter and shorter life- spans,” said Sironi. It’s a different tune at Guimer, a manufacturer that specializes in brass components for footwear. “We have stopped working with fashion brands because it was a constant price war. Most companies would rather go for lower level alloys that just don’t guarantee the same performance,” noted Gianluca Bagnara, the compa- ny’s chairman. Yet raw materials in general are the stepping stones toward excellent quality. In terms of Italy’s famed leathergoods com-  panies, the strong euro against the dollar has enabled manufac-    turers to buy quality skins at better prices. In some cases, tanners regis- tered a 25 percent drop in prices. “In moments of uncer- tainty, designers are upping the Cariaggi Lanificio SpA - via Flaminia Nord, 48 - 61040 Smirra di Cagli PU - Italy quality by buying hand-blotted Ph. +39.0721.784000 Fax +39.0721.784002 www.cariaggi.it [email protected] calfskins that enhance the 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

ITALY IN DEPTH

From left: Giorgio Armani’s viscose and spandex unitard, striped rayon and spandex T-shirt and rayon and spandex vest; Byblos’ striped silk top and cotton pants. spring ahead

MILAN — While their American counterparts are halfway through fashion week, the Milanese are just gearing up. This means last-minute fittings, reworking and a whole lot of running around. But that’s not to say they haven’t kept an eye on the pre-spring orders rolling in at the showroom. Based on those orders, it looks like the Italians will be serving up lots of bright colors and bold patterns, as well as steamy denim-and-leather combinations, a little bit of a punk-rock edge and, of course, lots of sex appeal. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 23

Dolce & Gabbana’s silk embroidered blazer over a cotton shirt and stretch jeans.

Missoni’s viscose knit blouse and viscose and spandex HotPants.

Gianfranco Ferré’s leather blazer and contrast-stitched pencil skirt and viscose and spandex top. EUP BY STEFANIA SIRILLI/CLOSE-UP; FASHION ASSISTANT: CHIARA HUGHES; STYLED BY ALESSANDRA ILARI ALESSANDRA HUGHES; STYLED BY CHIARA ASSISTANT: FASHION SIRILLI/CLOSE-UP; STEFANIA EUP BY PHOTOGRAPHED BY KHEPRI STUDIO AT VILLA RICOTTI, ARESE; MODELS: NATALIA COSTA/TAXI MODEL MANAGEMENT AND ANA T./NRG; HAIR AND MAK MODEL MANAGEMENT AND ANA T./NRG; COSTA/TAXI VILLA RICOTTI, ARESE; MODELS: NATALIA KHEPRI STUDIO AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

ITALY IN DEPTH

From left: DSquared’s leather-trimmed linen coat, cotton T-shirt and stretch jeans; Roberto Cavalli’s leather jacket, nylon bikini top and stretch jeans with leather inserts.

spring ahead WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 25 on decline

By Amanda Kaiser Fashion houses are often reluctant to discuss the issue but they, too, are turning to foreign countries for MILAN — Some of Italy’s most famous brands are a production. A Prada spokesman said a “very, very small bit less Italian than you might think. percentage” of the brand’s shoe uppers are assembled Missoni cuts its sport shirts in Romania. Prada in Romania and Serbia using Italian materials. stitches some of its shoes in Serbia. Giorgio Armani “We have exploited all of the shoe-upper produc- gets pieces of his diffusion lines from places like tion in Tuscany,” he said, explaining that Prada Hungary and China. Benetton manufactures in several sought labor outside Italy because of the rapidly countries including Croatia, Tunisia, India and Turkey. growing demand for its shoes. Even the president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale Gucci said that shoe uppers for its men’s sneakers Della Moda Italiana, Mario Boselli, owns his own fac- are made in Serbia, but all other shoe parts are tory in Slovakia making synthetic yarns. Italian and the assembly of all shoes is done here. Italian companies are fleeing Italy. The production Many companies operating abroad stress that out- of textiles, apparel, leather and leather goods in Italy sourcing has no impact on quality. It is a common dropped 8.7 percent in 2002, according to figures from practice for companies to send Italian managers to the Camera. In 2001 that figure was actually positive, supervise factories in other countries. Often workers showing a 2.8 percent rise. abroad stitch or work with raw materials from Italy. “The situation is not the rosiest,” said Giulia “The quality has really improved [in these coun- Pirovono, the Camera’s general director. tries]. There are well-organized structures The high cost of doing business in there. You just have to overcome that Italy and the inflexibility of its labor kind of psychological barrier,” said market are forcing more and more Angelo Giallorenzo, commercial Rossano Soldini companies to go abroad to man- Continued on page 28 ufacture their goods, whether it be entirely or only in part. Boselli has been produc- ing synthetic fibers in Slovakia since 1999. He said labor costs are a sixth of what they would be in Italy while energy costs are about half as expensive. Armani Jeans “When it comes to cer- are made in tain products, the choice Mauritius. of Italian companies is either you stop manufactur- ing them or you make them elsewhere,” he said. Italy’s geographic proximity to northern Africa and Eastern Europe make those countries partic- ularly fertile ground for the outsourcing of low-cost production. “In China and the Far East, costs are even lower, but those countries are also farther away, so it is eas- ier to control operations in Romania,” said Marco Tempestini, president of Unimpresa Romania, an association of Italian companies doing business in that country. Many companies producing abroad are high-vol- ume businesses targeting the low-to-medium segment of the market, such as Italian giant Benetton. These firms, selling clothes at low prices, are feeling the most pressure on their margins. “It is no longer feasible to produce for the mass market in Italy,” said a Benetton spokesman. Today about half of Benetton’s manufacturing takes place abroad in countries as varied as Spain, Portugal, Hungary, Croatia and Tunisia. Benetton also produces in India and Turkey but primarily for the local market in those countries. Over the past few years, Marzotto has been shifting its production of yarns and fabrics to countries like the Czech Republic, Lithuania and Tunisia to cut costs and narrow losses at its textile division. Employees in the Textile and Clothing Industries in Italy 2003 (est.): 678,200 2002: 687,100 2001: 694,700 2000: 698,600 1999: 690,200

SOURCE: SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

Employees in the Textile, Clothing, Leather Goods and Shoe Industries in Italy:

2002: 925,000 2001: 963,000 IT Holding uses production facilities in such places as 2000: 969,000 Morocco and Tunisia to make an array of secondary lines. SOURCE: SISTEMA MODA ITALIA Here, a look from D&G, one of its licensed brands. 26 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 fastITALY IN DEPTH fashion

Zara, the Spanish fast-fashion chain, landed in Italy after several years of searching for the right site.

By Luisa Zargani centers is as precious as it gets. these stores in England, they are well-rooted in our “We’ve been looking to enter Italy for the past two or daily life and we are all used to them,” said Berardi. MILAN — retailing is finally catching up three years, but we couldn’t find the right location, a Besides, fashion insiders and average shoppers con- to the rest of the world’s. big enough space,” said Carl-Henric Enhorning, head tend, the consumer mind-set is more and more about The global fast-fashion chains are rolling in, led by of investor relations at H&M, adding that the minimum fashion at a price, given the difficult Italian economy. such companies as Zara, Hennes & Mauritz and Mango. required space is 17,280 square feet. “Italy was one of “Mom-and-pop stores are not economical, and Italy The move is quickly reshaping the country’s tradition- the hardest countries to approach, together with was lagging behind,” said Armando Branchini, vice al shopping methods, which are predicated on thou- France,” said Enhorning. president of InterCorporate, a analyst sands of small, independent mom-and-pop stores H&M will open its first Italian store in Milan on here. “There were too many stores per person.” where personal service, generally high prices and Thursday, a few steps away from Zara. The group plans Branchini noted how it is more “modern” to reduce leisurely shopping trips are key. to open four or five stores in Italy next year. the number of stores while growing the dimension and “It’s about time,” said Stefano Percassi, one of the Isak Halfon, expansion director at Spanish clothing volume of the business. “Let’s face it, there is much less owners of Percassi Group, the Italian commercial and chain Mango, said, “Italy was closed to foreigners, but assortment in a smaller store and there is less cus- real estate giant that formed a joint venture two years now customers are saturated with the same old brands tomer diversification,” said Branchini. ago with Inditex Group, the Spain-based operator of and want something else.” The family-owned Mango, In addition, he said, there is now a refusal of a Zara, which today counts 573 stores around the world. which counts 662 stores in the world and registered sales designer’s “total look,” a staple in the Eighties. “Now The agreement brought Zara to Italy and the first flag- of $997 million last year, will open its first store in Milan customers follow their own taste and personality to ship opened in Milan last year. at the end of September. Mango has opened eight stores combine different brands, and mix and match a signa- Percassi attributed the surprising delay for such a in Italy since 2001, beginning with tourist town Sanremo. ture piece with a more basic one.” fashion-conscious country to bureaucratic obstacles, Although some lament the arrival of Zara, Mango Mario Boselli, president of Italy’s Chamber of protectionism and lack of real estate availability. “There and H&M as yet more evidence of globalization, others Fashion, said the altering retail landscape was “to be are countless paperwork problems related to opening a see Italy’s changing retail landscape as inevitable and expected,” as a consequence of the economic crisis and store in a city’s historic center here, [where such groups more in tune with the times. Designer Antonio Berardi the general increase in prices. “The less affluent now usually prefer to set up their flagships],” he said. “This said working for these fast-fashion groups is an accept- have a chance to have access to fashion, but those that is why the help of an Italian partner becomes pivotal.” ed reality outside Italy, where financial backing and do have more spending power still like to have some In addition, available space in the cities’ historic manufacturing possibilities are scarce. “I grew up with fun and match cheaper items with designer brand WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 27 n hits italy

H&M will open its first flagship in Milan Thursday.

Looks from Roberto Cavalli, who says imitation by the fast chains is a form of flattery; Anna Molinari, who thinks the knock-offs lack uniqueness, and Antonio Berardi, who notes the fast chains are a fact of life outside Italy.

pieces,” said Boselli. opened in March, is already the company’s 20th best-per- for clothes that are copied and only decent.” Case in point: Maria Sole Giorgetti, flipping through forming store in the world. “It’s amazing data, given the Designer Anna Molinari agreed, saying “reproduc- the racks at Zara, is wearing a Hermes belt, Tod’s moc- fact that it usually takes two years to consolidate a busi- tions are approximate and standardized, lacking in cre- casins and carrying a Prada shoulder bag and a ness in a new country,” said Halfon, adding the store in ativity and uniqueness.” shopping bag. “I was introduced to Zara by my Sanremo, which opened a year and a half ago, is selling 25 Others, though, were more concerned that the self- daughters and I realized it’s really good value for percent more than forecasted. Halfon noted how Mango service formats of the likes of H&M and Zara would money: The cut of the clothes allows [one] to mix and encourages its franchisees with a low risk level. “They pay undermine Italy’s traditional ways of shopping, where match them with more expensive designer items,” said for what they sell and send back any remainders,” he said. chatting and visiting with customers is almost as impor- Giorgetti, a well-groomed lady in her fifties. There are concerns, however, particularly over the tant as selling merchandise. “I don’t like the fact that you Stefania Saviolo, co-director of the master in fashion impact the arrival of such global megachains will have don’t create a human relationship between customer management program at Milan’s Bocconi University, said on Italy’s thousands of independent stores. Saviolo said and personnel,” Roberto Cavalli said of the megachains. the role of fashion players has been completely turned she will miss sending her students to check out the But he wasn’t upset about often finding designs upside down. “Designers are now expected to offer con- Fiorucci store, which shuttered its door in July and inspired by his own collections on the shelves of the tinuous, long-lasting products, given the price, while handed over the space to the H&M shop. “We are losing fast-fashion groups. “After all, it means I was right on these fast-fashion groups are required to display extreme, some of the uniqueness we are known for,” she said. when I’m copied,” he said. of-the-moment clothes that can be quickly discarded with- Saviolo contended there is no contact with suppliers And, while some observers might be upset over the out worrying about how much we paid,” said Saviolo, and creative, imaginative designers in such large potential loss of tradition with the arrival of the fast- adding customers are “tired of shelling out a lot of money chains and compared the international fashion groups fashion chains, consumers certainly don’t seem to be for clothes and accessories that quickly look out of date.” to fast-food chains, quickly coming up with new, cheap concerned. Although inconvenienced by the lack of And the fact that Italy’s economy is going through offers at a moderate quality. service and the long lines at the changing rooms, Zara one of its slowest growth periods in years is not stop- The Chamber of Fashion’s Boselli cautioned against shopper Patrizia Damiano, a student in Milan, said she ping these groups from opening their stores now. In endlessly reproducing large, global fashion retailing for- simply “deals” with spending two to three hours shop- fact, it may be spurring their expansion as consumers mats to the detriment of inventiveness and research. ping. She visits Zara about once a month and spends become ever hungrier for cheap yet chic fashion. “We [Italians] should go our own way, if we try to follow about $120 each time. “If you offer good collections at the right price, there is [fast-fashion groups], it will eventually hurt us,” he said. “I know what to expect and I don’t let it annoy me,” no crisis,” said Halfon. Halfon said the Mango Rome store, “We shouldn’t forfeit beautiful and well-made fashion said Damiano. 28 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

ITALY IN DEPTH italian production waning

Continued from page 25 and marketing director at IT Holding. Boselli’s plant in Humennè, Slovakia. IT Holding, which boasts a rich portfolio of licenses to produce diffusion lines such as Versus, Versace Jeans Couture, D&G and Just Cavalli, has been producing basic products like jeans and T- shirts in Morocco and Tunisia for about five years. Workers in Italy put on the finishing touches before they are shipped to stores. The company is also farming out production of handbags and small leather goods to China. Eventually about 80 percent of these items will be produced there but the production of more special- ized items like formal shoes will be kept in Europe. Of course, there are drawbacks to moving pro- duction out of Italy. It increases the complexity of the supply chain, lengthening the time between an order and the actual manufacturing. It also can raise questions over the use of low-paid workers in developing countries. “Every time another link gets added to the chain there is more of a risk of [exploitative labor conditions],” said Tempestini, who is also the ceo of Maglificio Magreb, a knitwear company in Treviso that operates in Romania. “You have to be more careful in countries where there are fewer [labor] laws. [Italian companies] have to take further precautions to compensate.” And producing abroad is a bit of an ironic twist Italian Fashion Industry (Textiles, apparel, leather, leather goods and shoes) Figures in euros.

INDICATOR 2000 2001 2002 2003 (EST.) Revenues from companies 71.82 billion 72.92 billion 71.10 billion 71.10 billion Export 40.75 billion 43.01 billion 40.71 billion 40.70 billion Import 18.25 billion 20.10 billion 21.56 billion 22.86 billion Mario Boselli, president of the Camera Nazionale. Della Moda Italiana. Trade balance 22.50 billion 22.91 billion 19.15 billion 17.85 billion Change in production in Italy 0.4% 2.8% -8.7% N/A

SOURCE: CAMERA NAZIONALE DELLA MODA ITALIANA

for Italians who pride themselves as master artisans and sometimes turn melodramatic when describing their craft as an extension of the canon that birthed Michelangelo and Leonardo Da Vinci. Many have expressed the belief that their innate ability to craft leather and fabric is encoded in their DNA. But an economic downturn can turn what at first seemed sacrilegious into shrewd strategy. And what’s even more dramatic, it may not even matter to the most important person of all — the customer. Armando Branchini, vice president of consultan- cy InterCorporate, said ultimately consumers will equate quality more with a brand than with a par- ticular country. “An Armani product is Armani, whether it is produced in Italy or in Spain or in China,” he said. Janet Brown, owner of the eponymous boutique in Port Washington, N.Y., said she can’t remember a single time a customer has asked if a particular gar- ment was made in Italy. “If a woman wants a limited-edition cashmere sweater and it’s made in Timbuktu, she still wants it,” she said. But just because products are partially manu- factured or sewn in other countries doesn’t mean they have to forsake a Made In Italy label. As Rossano Soldini, president of shoemakers association ANCI, explained, all that is required is that most of the work is done on Italian soil. “Delocalizing part of the production to stay com- petitive is OK, but the important thing is that it doesn’t bear the Made In Italy label if it is entirely produced outside of Italy,” said Soldini, who along with others in the fashion industry is asking the Italian government for better vigilance regarding the label. “If somebody manufactures a product in China it should read Made In China or if it is made in Romania, the label should say Made In Romania. There’s nothing to be ashamed of,” he said. “The consumers have to be informed on where it is pro- duced — then it is up to them.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 29

qualit y key to high end Giuseppe Zanotti’s labor-intensive shoes.

Continued from page 21 weeks, supply chains become longer and fast-fashion retailers place ever-greater pressure on designer and luxury houses, perhaps quality becomes harder and harder to maintain. After all, women today expect to wear their stilettos every- where — even over cobblestones and gutters — so should it be surprising when their heels break? “Feminine stiletto styles are pretty but inconvenient if they’re worn to the bone,” said Rossi. Added Giuseppe Zanotti, a young shoe designer, “In the Sixties, a pair of stilet- to pumps would last for years because women took great care of their shoes and wore them on special occasions.” Clearly, the challenge for both accessories and apparel manufacturers has been to meld prettiness with durability. Staying on top of quality in a fashion industry obsessed with fast turnaround times is no joke. “One barely finishes a collection and it’s time to move on to the next season. Stores request the mer- chandise always earlier so execution time is reduced to a minimum,” said Zanotti. That said, Zanotti goes to great lengths to always include labor-intensive accoutrements in his collections, including silk-lined shoes, latex insoles and naturally dyed skins. And if a quality-control issue is identified, he moves rapidly to fix it. “If a minor problem occurs, it’s important for a brand to make up for it as fast and as efficiently as possible,” said Zanotti. “That means relying on a well-assorted stock of heels, rhinestones, beads and other embellish- ments that can replace the ruined ones immediately.” At Prada, the demand for quality means hand-knitted cashmere sweaters that take 60 work hours to make, nearly as long as a couture gown. “It’s one of Miuccia’s small provocations. The sweaters look simple but are incredibly labor inten- sive,” exclaimed Bertelli. A couple of seasons ago, when Miuccia Prada was into lamé, she headed to Lyon where she resurrected original looms and produc- tion chains. “We don’t tell our clients all this because it’s our raison d’etre, but we’re sure it’s perceived and appreciated,” said Bertelli. Uniqueness, paired with quality, also makes the differ- ence at Giuliana Cella, a designer who crafts most of her clothes with antique silks and wools. All the 30-piece fall collection she shipped to her clients — Neiman Marcus in New York, Feathers in London and Villa Moda in Kuwait, among others — dif- fered from one another. The base was her Gabriele D’Annunzio- inspired collection, filled with kimono-style coats made with original Liberty laces and handpainted devoré velvets, languid dress- es and wrap-around skirts, which she personalized upon the stores’ request. The most expensive cashmere and lace coat wholesales for $1,000. Michelle Pfeiffer and Sharon Stone are red-carpet fans. “My seamstresses and I nearly had a nervous break- down trying to get the clothes done in time, but we succeeded,” said Cella. “For a small company like mine, with no advertising budget, it’s important to offer added value, something that does- n’t compete with the tradi- tional luxury brands.”

WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 31 Rory Tahari Balances Form and Function

By Sharon Edelson ble the options. The multitasking pieces can NEW YORK — When Rory Tahari be shortened or lengthened with looked in her closet last year and snaps and zippers. Pants, dress- saw a big black hole, it hit her. es, jackets and skirts in silicone Where were the sophisticated satin and silver-leafed cotton can urban clothes that could take her be dressed up or down, depend- from the playground to the office ing on the occasion. The collec- to a big night out without sacri- tion captures the current inter- ficing her comfort and style? The est in sports apparel with racing answer was, they didn’t exist. stripes and hoodies, but is ren- So Tahari, who is married to dered sophisticated by its design. designer Elie Tahari, created T- T-21 is projected to do $5 mil- 21, an alternative to the sloppy lion at wholesale in its first year. mommy uniform of sweatsuits Robert Burke, vice president or T-shirts and jeans. and senior fashion director of It goes without saying that fe- Bergdorf Goodman, said, “I see male designers have the inside hundreds of lines. I get a sense track on what women want and when they’re a one-note Charlie. need. When Donna Karan found- This is based more on an atti- ed her own label in 1984 after a tude than a silhouette. These are decade of working with Louis very modern sportswear pieces Dell’Olio on Anne Klein, one of with an edge. the first things she designed was “I don’t think this area has

a bodysuit because she knew been explored that much,” THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY from experience that shirts added Burke. “I think Rory has From T-21, a reversible gray jacket, and a dress made of double-faced jersey; Rory Tahari in her office. often become untucked from just scratched the surface.” pants and skirts. Bergdorf ’s, the first retailer to void there,” Burke continued. spring, I will do a lot of color.” that had a different point of view. “I wanted to design a collection pick up the line for fall, is selling “While Juicy Couture is very A silver jacket made of silver- When she came up with the idea based on the modern woman’s it on its fifth floor. While T-21 successful, there are cus- leafed cotton and glizzer ($298), for T-21 and told her husband she lifestyle,” Tahari said. “This is ex- might be compared to Juicy tomers that want a wider ver- is matte on one side and shiny wanted to do it on her own, he citing because I know I’ve hit on Couture, Burke offered: “It’s sion of that.” on the other. It can be worn to launched a new company. something that’s not out there.” more designed and has more of T-21 is named after Tahari’s the gym, then reversed for din- For sniping fashion folk who Her line of 21 pieces stresses a fashion point of view. The ma- lucky number. She said that when ner out. Tank tops with ring say Tahari leads a charmed life, form and function with plenty of terials, which are a little more she finished designing the collec- buckle details are $98, and a she’s the first to agree. pockets for cash or credit cards technical and fashion-oriented, tion and counted the pieces, lo ruched dress is $288. “I’m lucky to have such a — because sometimes Tahari are quite impressive. and behold, there were 21 items. Tahari, who was creative di- wonderful husband,” she said doesn’t feel like carrying a “When you see something For fall, the palette is black, rector of the Elie Tahari Collec- curled up on a gray wool sofa in purse — and innovative fabrics like Juicy Couture come on the white and gray. “With the first de- tion for five years before launch- her 48th-floor office with sweep- like double-faced jersey that market and be as successful as livery, I wanted to keep it very ing T-21, said she always wanted ing views of the city. “He’s been can be turned inside out to dou- it is, it means there’s a very big tight and focused,” she said. “For to design pieces for that label my biggest supporter.” 32 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

Executive Technology A Dose of Reality for a Rudimentary Model By David Moin First, it’s adapting digital pho- “Our goal is to bring the face products before they go into pro- tion. We are operating this way tography so the online virtual in 2004, to send a digital pic- duction, enabling designers to with important fashion retailers.” NEW YORK — For Louise Guay, model will show a true image of ture,” Guay said. “We want to create with input from con- Also, Guay hopes My Virtual founder and president of My a customer’s face. Currently, the produce a 3-D face on a 3-D sumers. Guay declined to identify Model will soon provide fashion Virtual Model, surviving the dot- model is a crude likeness, just body. That will open the door to the private label firm. and beauty suggestions, tailored com burst isn’t enough. depicting height, weight, facial the beauty industry.” While no Test products would be en- to the user’s lifestyle, as new At the outset of the technology shape, hair and skin color so a beauty firms have signed on for tirely virtual and highly detailed products are offered by retailers. boom, Guay was a celebrity with viewer can match up some of her the technology yet, Guay thinks at 800 dots per inch, without any “Like Amazon does for books, her shopping tool geared to help physical attributes with fashion one selling hair products might production necessary so people we will do for garments,” said online shoppers select the size items. The image also turns for be announced before Christmas. can see it to judge silhouettes Guay. “The big picture is that and fit best for them. While now side and back views, but there is Guay also said a certain pri- and colors, and to get a jump on more people will want to have her profile seems a bit lower, she really not much of a likeness. vate label business and stores the production. very personalized services and says she’s advancing her soft- When My Virtual Model bowed have begun utilizing My Virtual “It’s like creating a sophisticat- expect technology will know them ware technology for wider ac- about four years ago, the technol- Model to test products via online ed focus group online,” Guay said. even better than salespeople. ceptance by store and catalog ogy was sometimes criticized for focus groups. The groups evalu- “There’s power in it, if it’s inte- “Instead of discovering the Web sites as well as consumers. its rudimentary image. ate virtual representations of the grated into the chain of produc- store, you will expect the store to discover you,” Guay projected. “People want to be recognized. They don’t trust brands as much as they did before. We see with reality TV that people want to participate in the show. The next step is that they will want to par- ticipate in the design and will want to customize their clothes. The best way to know what it will look like is through technology. “People have a desire to ex- press themselves,” she said. “Mer- chants must understand that.” My Virtual Model, based in Montreal, has recently added such clients as levi.com and kohls.com to facilitate online sales of Levi’s jeans. Wal-Mart has also been featuring some of its sportswear on the glamour.com Web site, which utilizes the My Virtual Model technology to help sell Wal-Mart apparel. As Guay sees it, My Virtual Model enables online retailers “to smash the oldest and biggest barrier to buying clothes online: the simple lack of a mirror.”

Fewer Clicks Mean More Sales Online NEW YORK — About two years ago, e-commerce sites were striv- ing to keep shoppers at their des- tination as long as possible, be- lieving the more time they spend at a Web site, the more likely they’d be to run up a tab. What a difference a dot-com ® Introducing Check-Net, 31 service bureaus plus bust can make. As it turns out, e- on-line data management. commerce sites that have survived When we developed and thrived in the considerably tougher virtual economy of 2003 are Check-Net moves your tags and labels at the speed our global tag and label likely to be those that have made of fashion. Convenient online ordering and tracking, shopping a speedier experience. network, were we thinking 24/7. Dynamic order routing to the facility closest to Streamlining has replaced stickiness as the platform for a profitable on- your vendor. Faster turnaround of your printed mate- line store, as customers have grown speed, rials. 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The b-t-s sample comprised 25 e-commerce sites, drawn from the 100 sites The E-tailing Group sur- veys for its annual holiday study. The focus of today’s Web mer- chants, observed The E-tailing Group president Lauren Freedman, checkpointsystems.com is on “improving the efficiency” of the customer’s shopping experience. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 33 Color and Novelty Continue to Lead Way in Chicago By Beth Wilson ally tried to be conscious of the her core resources: Eileen Chase ordered silk georgette ion sweaters from Pink Poodle. consumer’s pocketbook,” she said. Fisher, Sigrid Olsen, David separates from Eileen Fisher, a “My buying was comparable CHICAGO — Retailers attending Chase, meanwhile, was en- Brooks and Windridge. Sigrid Olsen navy group for to last year, not up or down,” she the recent spring market at the ticed by color. “I saw a lot of “They looked good for spring, cruisewear, and sage, yellow said. “I was using this market to Apparel Center here said al- work my regular resources.” though traffic appeared slower, Walby also was drawn to the those in attendance endorsed That category [novelty T-shirts] is selling well now, and I colors exhibited at the market, the trends, especially the strong “ ordering cotton sweaters by use of color. expect it will continue. Anything novelty is better than anything Willow in green, coral, pink and “I thought the mood was posi- black, and sundresses and tive,” said Helen Chase, owner boring. What’s not happening is very basic merchandise. capris from Susan Bristol in of Trillium Fine Clothing for ” limes and yellows. Women in Mt. Pleasant, Mich. — Fran Ano, Four Squires She also plans to introduce a “Attendance seemed down to pink story for resort, including a me, but the fellow buyers whom corals, pinks, oranges, peaches, and I was pleased,” Chase said. and denim coordinating sepa- pink raincoat from Supply & I spoke with felt favorable about limes and blues,” she said. “They sell very well for me. The rates from Olsen. From David Demand. “We went with pink, business.” Some seasons, it’s all neutrals fit, color and style appeal to my Brooks, Chase liked red and pink and more pink,” she said, “What I saw I liked,” she and earth tones, she added. customer base, and they’re all white coordinating separates adding, “We’re looking for cool added. “Color is continuing.” Chase continued to buy from exactly right for my store.” and plans to order novelty fash- pink jewelry to make it pop.” “The market was pretty quiet,” echoed Judy Walby, owner of the Peppertree in Rochester, Mich., “but we like spring a lot. The color was invit- ing. It was happy, it felt good.” Fran Ano, buyer for Four Squires in Antioch, Ill., and Chuck Hines in Barrington, agreed: “It wasn’t busy, but I liked the merchandise.” In particular, Ano liked the movement from capris to more full-length pants and skirts. “She’s been in capris for four years,” Ano said of her cus- tomer who she believes is ready for a change. Ano ordered Telluride casual sportswear in mango, fuchsia, lime and blue, as well as shirts, jackets and T-shirts with dragon- fly cutouts from Michael Simon and soft floral sundresses from Capricorn. She also opted for dressy separates from Sigrid Olsen in aqua, fresca and pale lime, including sequined cro- queted tanks. In terms of trends, Ano no- ticed several manufacturers selling built-in bra tanks and tops with interesting sleeve treatment, ties, pleating and lots of hoods, as well as novelty skirts. “A lot of business is going into skirts with embroidery, appliqué and cutout designs,” she said. In turn, Ano believes cus- tomers will be buying dressier separates rather than dresses. Karen Kane helped meet that need, she said, with blouses, short jackets and skirts embel- lished with embroidery and burnout patterns in mango and basil, as did Meritage with bead- ed blouses and skirts for evening in black and gold, black and white, and black and pink combinations. Ano also picked up some terry-cloth activewear by Wild Palms and novelty T-shirts fea- turing Chicago landmark buildings such as Wrigley Field by Glima. “I believe those will sell well,” she said. “That category [novelty T-shirts] is selling well now, and I expect it will contin- ue. Anything novelty is better than anything boring. What’s not happening is very basic merchandise.” Particularly impressive was the price of some clothing at the market, Ano noted. Michael Simon, for example, was “very well priced for what it was,” she said. Ano thought some dragonfly cutout separates should retail for around $150, and they were coming in for under $100. “Some manufactures have re- 34 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

In the Mainstream Spring Fling: Getting So Much Better By Evan Clark call a market “opportunity” or “void” moderately priced goods. “it’s hard to predict how everybody’s that many firms are vying to fill. The Department stores also are struggling to going to execute.” How smoothly the lines NEW YORK — It’s a buyer’s market in change prompted Jones to extend its differentiate themselves not only from the roll out could be indicative of how attrac- better. namesake brand with Jones New York national chains, but from each other, and a tive they are to stores going forward. An abundance of new lines and a re- Signature and instigated Liz Claiborne slew of new and remodeled offerings at “It remains to be seen if the pie’s newed interest in the category on the Inc.’s move to speed up the launch its prices out of the reach of their lower-tiered going to be bigger with all these new part of designers and department stores new line, Realities. Other players also competition could be the answer. lines or if it’s just going to get carved up has made for a major shakeup on the bet- are looking to take advantage of the tran- “The better business has been very differently,” Doroff said. “Newness never ter floor next year. sition, including Kellwood Co. with a difficult and very challenging,” said hurts — there’s a reason for customers to Although much is still to be worked lower-priced Calvin Klein line, and Bradley, noting the current climate is come back and shop and look.” out, industry estimates indicate a signifi- Tommy Hilfiger Corp. with its revamped “allowing us to dissect [the business] While the bar is going to be raised for cant portion — perhaps a third — of the H collection. and hopefully come up with a better new lines, Doroff said Lauren was “out- better space in major stores could be up Next year also will see better offer- formula.” standing” and his team reacted positively for grabs. The changes begin to take hold ings from the designer set with Michael All of the movement in better, though, to Realities. Bloomingdale’s is also buy- in spring, and floor space for the season Kors, while Marc Jacobs contemplates has spurred pointed competition. ing the new Calvin Klein line, as well as is being decided between merchants and Signature and H. vendors now. Retail consultant Walter Loeb noted, “With some of the recent shifts in It remains to be seen if the pie’s going to be “There is a tremendous need to upgrade manufacturing, it’s opening up an oppor- “ and establish department stores as up- tunity for everybody to reevaluate their bigger with all these new lines or if it’s just going scale stores. Manufacturers are sensing current structure,” said Kathy Bradley, that business is going to take a new direc- merchandise manager for misses’ and to get carved up differently. tion upward.” junior sportswear at The Doneger Group ” — Frank Doroff, Bloomingdale’s Stores can cut costs and increase pro- buying and consulting firm. ductivity to improve performance, but Among the major dynamics affecting the segment, as well. Although Bloomingdale’s is buying that strategy has its limits, he said. the segment is the transition of the “We’ll really see how it all shakes out, into the new lines, the retailer won’t be “At one point or another you have to Lauren by Ralph Lauren label back to who rises to the top and who doesn’t, and expanding its better floor space, said ex- get more business into the store because Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. from Jones by 2005 the better landscape will look ecutive vice president Frank Doroff. you’re not going to meet operating ex- Apparel Group in June. Last year, the much different than it looks now,” said “We’re going to try to make it more penses if you don’t,” Loeb said. “The line, which anchored many better depart- Bradley, who predicted 2004 would be “a productive with all the new competi- present customer base is bored.” ments, pulled in sales of $548 million for learning and experimental year.” tion,” he said. “We’re going to try to edit Angela Ahrendts, executive vice presi- Jones, which produced it under license. It turns out, though, that the depart- and maximize the productivity of our dent of Claiborne, said of the better floor Polo, though, is expecting the business ment stores were due for a change and floor.” space, “Some of it’s a given. It’s not like to shrink some, at least at first, and pull the Lauren transfer, which has become a That editing means some lines will be the whole thing is flipping over.” in sales of $400 million in its first year, as litigious affair, was simply the spark. pulled, but wouldn’t necessarily exit She estimated 20 to 30 percent of the reported. Additionally, Polo might have Chains such as Kohl’s and J.C. Penney Bloomingdale’s, as the decisions will be better floor space could change hands. to prove it can execute the Lauren line have been increasingly pressuring more made on a store-by-store basis. While the Retailers are taking “a wait-and-see as consistently as Jones did, sources said. traditional department stores with in- showroom offers one view of a line, ideal- approach,” Ahrendts said. “It’s survival This left what Seventh Avenue likes to creased competition for sales of more ly with its best foot forward, he noted, of the fittest. 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Production Locations: Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 35

Public Clothing is making Perry Ellis a player. The New Better Players

LINE MADE BY IN STORES LAUNCH DOORS EXPECTED FIRST-YEAR VOLUME Calvin Klein Kellwood Co. March 150 N/A

H 1 Tommy Hilfiger Corp. February 80-100 $200 million

Jones New York Signature 2 Jones Apparel Group February 700 $200 million

Lauren by Ralph Lauren 3 Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. January 920 $400 million

Realities 4 Liz Claiborne Inc. January 200-250 $83-$114 million

N/A NOT AVAILABLE 1 LAUNCHING EXCLUSIVELY AT FEDERATED DEPARTMENT STORES. VOLUME IS ESTIMATED. 2 ALSO SELLING IN 200-250 SPECIAL-SIZE DOORS. EXPECTED VOLUME IS AT LEAST $200 MILLION 3 LAUNCHED INITIALLY IN 1996, THE LAUREN LINE IS UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. VOLUME FOR APRIL '04 THROUGH MARCH '05. THE LINE WILL ALSO SELL IN ABOUT 450 SPECIAL-SIZE DOORS. 4 VOLUME IS ESTIMATED.

megabrands, but it’s not like everybody’s trying to its spring collection. be a megabrand. You might end up seeing all of Elissa Skala Bromer, president of Perry Ellis these launches survive, but doing different things women’s wear, at the presentation of the line for different stores. I don’t think any store will go Friday in Bryant Park, noted of the collection: in and buy every one of them.” “It’s a real turnaround for us. It’s putting a stake Stephen Ruzow, president of Kellwood in the ground and making us a player in better.” women’s wear, agreed the fight for space on the Public Clothing plans to grow Perry Ellis better floor is fierce. women’s into a $50 million business next year. Calvin Klein women’s better, though, is easing The increased competition and newness in bet- its way into the pool. The line is licensed to ter could be just what the department stores need Kellwood, which partnered with GAV for greater to create consumer excitement. design credentials. “It’s about time,” said Smith Barney broadlines “We’re going to be very limited on Calvin,” said equity analyst Deborah Weinswig. “As we start to Ruzow. “We’re only going to put it into about 150 see new product that you can’t buy at Kohl’s or doors and want to be in the best two stores in the Penney’s or Wal-Mart, I think the department mall, the stores that have the ability to really sell stores will become destinations again.” it at full price.” Private label programs also are helping depart- In addition to the giants of the apparel world, ment stores set themselves apart, which, together moderate-sized firms also are zeroing in on better with better sportswear, could be “very effective” for the spring and aren’t planning on giving up in helping turn things around, said Weinswig. their ground. Perry Ellis women’s, which was re- “Everyone assumed department stores were launched by licensee Public Clothing Co. this past dead,” she said. “I just don’t think that’s the case. spring, has tapped designer Patrick Robinson for They are coming back to life.”

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P:: 212.764.8989 F: 212.764.9332 WAITEX.COM [email protected] 525 7TH AVENUE, 2ND FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 36 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 Compensation at Lauder: Bonuses Up, Salaries Down

NEW YORK — The Estée roomed to $3.5 million in 2002 jected business conditions and tive to receive a higher annual the Czech Republic and Ro- Lauder Cos. made impressive because of company-paid insur- the need to control overall ex- salary in 2003 as his wages rose mania,” the company said in a strides in 2003, including higher ance premiums, was just $5,500 penses,” the company’s proxy 12.5 percent to $1.1 million from statement. profits, and the beauty giant re- last year, according to data in said. “Accordingly, the commit- $1 million. His bonus more than warded its top officers with the company’s proxy statement, tee recommended and most ex- doubled, jumping 124.9 percent higher bonuses. released this week. to $1.5 million from $650,000. However, difficult business Leonard Lauder, chairman, The proxy also noted that Clarins Distribution Deal conditions at the end of the saw his 2003 salary dip to $1.7 Leonard Lauder, 70, has 45 Clarins will distribute Valen- prior year led to 5 percent million for the fiscal year BEAUTY BEAT years of qualifying company em- tino fragrances in the U.S. as salary reductions among its top ended June 30, 5 percent less ployment and is eligible for re- part of a deal struck recently be- executives. than the $1.8 million he earned ecutive officers, including those tirement. If he were to retire tween the French house and Fred Langhammer, president, in 2002. However, Lauder’s an- with contractual rights, accept- now, his annual retirement ben- Valentino licensee Procter & chief executive officer and the nual performance-based bonus ed 5 percent reductions in efit would be roughly $1 million. Gamble Prestige Beauté. Clarins firm’s highest paid executive, also fattened 93.3 percent to salary in fiscal 2003, as com- — Jennifer Weitzman USA Inc. will handle the Valentino brand within its Grows in Europe Clarins Fragrance Group unit. The committee recommended and most executive P&G Prestige Beaute signed a li- PARIS — Sephora is continuing cense for Valentino fragrances officers, including those with contractual rights, its eastward expansion in Europe. effective Aug. 1, as reported. The LVMH Moët accepted 5 percent reductions in salary in fiscal 2003. -owned perfumery chain said Tuesday it signed a partnership deal with Maxim High Roller saw his salary for the year ended $1.7 million from $900,000 the pared to fiscal 2002 levels.” Klimov, owner of the 104-door The Art of Shaving is cele- June 30 fade 5 percent to $1.9 year before. Last year, as reported, Lauder L’ Etoile chain in Russia. brating the October opening of million against $2 million last Lauder’s other compensation crossed the $5 billion sales As a result of the deal, several its first Las Vegas barber spa year. However, his bonus nearly contracted to $5,500 from $412,000. threshold, logging sales of $5.12 L’Etoile stores will be converted and retail emporium, located at doubled, mushrooming 93.3 per- Bonuses are tied to year-to- billion, 7.9 percent above the into Sephoras, while some Se- the Mandalay Bay hotel. The cent to $2.9 million over his 2002 year achievements in financial $4.74 registered in 2002. Net in- phora sales points will be opened 2,000-square-foot space is de- bonus of $1.5 million. Additional- and operational indicators, in- come reached $319.8 million, or in Russia under the supervision signed to offer traditional bar- ly, he collected $2 million in re- cluding improvements in earn- $1.26 a diluted share, two-thirds of Sephora and the franchise. ber services, aromatherapy stricted stock awards, the same ings and sales. higher than prior-year income of “Sephora thus confirms its in- skin treatments, as well as a as in 2002. In determining salaries for $191.9 million, or 70 cents. tention to expand into markets large retail area. For VIP cus- Langhammer’s other com- the year, the compensation com- William Lauder, chief operat- with strong growth potential, fol- tomers, in-suite shave services pensation, a category that mush- mittee in 2002 “considered pro- ing officer, was the only execu- lowing its successes in Poland, are available.

Italian Trade Commission Government Agency 33 East 67th Street Retail Apparel Prices New York, NY 10021-5949 Come discover new resources for Italian knitwear and ready-to-wear. Still Hurt by Deflation Spring/Summer 2004 Italian womenswear collections will be on view.

By Joanna Ramey in the overall economy is slowly September 29 & 30, 2003 strengthening and deflation con- WASHINGTON — Retail prices cerns seem to be waning. Earlier ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION for women’s apparel in August this year, government officials in- dipped a seasonally adjusted 0.1 cluding Federal Reserve chair- 33 East 67th Street (between Park & Madison) percent against July, marking man Alan Greenspan, had said New York, New York 10021 the first, although slight, erosion they were on the lookout for de- Tel. 212.848.0337 Fax: 212.758.1050 in prices in three months, the flation taking hold and further Labor Department reported dragging down the economy. to preregister phone 212.848.0337 Tuesday. Citing a still rocky, but 10:00 am to 7:00 pm September 29, 2003 However, discounting of sum- strengthening economy, as well 9:00 am to 6:00 pm September 30, 2003 mer merchandise in August was as a slight concern about defla- offset by fall merchandise “com- tion, the Federal Reserve on ing in with higher or regular Tuesday decided to leave inter- prices,” a Labor apparel analyst est rates alone. The federal pointed out. funds rate of 1 percent is al- Compared with August 2002, ready at a 45-year low. women’s apparel prices last The Fed noted that the “up- month were still beset by defla- side and downside risks” of sus- tion, declining 3.6 percent over tained economic growth are the 12 months, according to the “roughly equal.” But increased Labor’s monthly Consumer Price productivity and increased con- Index, a key measure of inflation. sumer spending are pointing the In July, women’s apparel prices way to a recovery, the Fed said. for the month were unchanged, In the apparel arena, Retail following a 0.7 percent increase Forward Inc. economist Steve in June and reflecting a long- Spiwak said retailer discounting term, up-and-down price pattern is helping to fuel sales, while in the problematic economy. paring down inventories that For all apparel, retail prices had built up earlier in the year in August edged up 0.1 percent when demand was down. against July and were off 2.7 “What we’re seeing now is percent from the year before. the first time in about a year in Girls’ apparel prices increased the apparel area where sales 0.8 percent for the month, but are outpacing inventory, which were off 1.4 percent from August is a good sign going into the 2002. Men’s apparel prices de- Christmas selling season,” CREAZIONI MARSIL www.marsilsrl.it clined 0.6 percent in August Spiwak said. against July and plunged 4.3 Meanwhile, the women’s ap- CONFEZIONI BOBA percent over the 12 months. parel categories tracked by the KICCA In the overall economy, prices federal government and their for all retail goods last month in- August price changes for the L’OFFICINA DELLA MODA www.officinadellamoda.it creased 0.3 percent against July. month and over the year were: MAGLIFICIO M. MOSELE www.milenamosele.it However, when volatile energy outerwear, down 0.5 percent and and food prices are removed 5.8 percent, respectively; dresses, PSV www.mireafashion.it from the index, consumer prices up 7.6 percent and down 2 per- SO.PA.SA www.soniafortuna.it increased a more moderate 0.1 cent; suits and separates, down percent. 1.6 percent and 4.7 percent, and John Mothersole, a senior underwear, nightwear, sports- ...and more! economist with WEFA/Global wear and accessories, down 2.1 Insights Inc., said pricing power percent and 0.1 percent. The Hottest Collection of the Year! Issue date: December 8 Closing Date: November 12 *Also to be sold on newsstand

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, Senior VP, Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 38 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 NRF Sees Prosperous Holiday Mercedes and Saks By David Moin an annual rate in the second litical concerns and deflation quarter following little or no pose risks. Deflation was 2.5 per- NEW YORK — Talk about going spending since 2000. cent last year and is running at 3 Backing Key to Cure out on a limb. The NRF defines holiday percent this year. “Real GAFS is Despite the unpredictability of sales as total sales — not compa- higher than the numbers would NEW YORK — Mercedes-Benz world events and the roller coast- rable-store sales — in November imply,” Wells said, noting that a and Saks Fifth Avenue sprin- er nature of retailing, The Nation- and December at general mer- 5.7 percent holiday sales in- kled some Hollywood glitter on al Retail Federation trade group chandisers and stores specializ- crease represents 8.7 percent Monday morning’s kickoff for is projecting holiday ’03 sales to ing in apparel, accessories, furni- real unit increase. And Wells did the Key to the Cure, a women’s grow by 5.7 percent over last year. ture, home furnishings, electron- say there could be some slowing cancer initiative expected to That would bring the season’s ics, appliances, sporting goods, in retail sales next year. raise more than $3 million. spending to $217.4 billion and hobbies, books or music. It’s a Also present at the briefing Lucy Liu and Jamie Tisch make it the best since 1999. category known as GAFS sales. were Richard Markee, vice turned up under the tents in The NRF’s chief economist, In the first quarter, GAFS chairman of Toys ‘R’ Us, and Bryant Park to talk up the Rosalind Wells, also made the sales rose 1.4 percent, then 3.1 Louis Fortunoff, executive vice cause, which will benefit 60 surprising prediction that price percent in the second quarter, 6.4 president of Fortunoff ’s, who charitable programs including slashing, which has been esca- percent in July and 5.1 percent in said the season should be boost- the Entertainment Industry lating for years and has become August. “September looks very ed by newness in the market. Foundation’s Women’s Cancer as much a part of the Christmas solid,” Wells said. “Back-to-school Chandelier earrings, diamonds Research Fund. season as Santa, could be more merchandise sold very well. and jewelry with leather or rub- “Fashion is so global and has subdued in the months ahead. Third-quarter GAFS look like 5.8 ber are selling well, Fortunoff so much of an effect on peo- “We are very optimistic that percent.” She also cited low inter- said. Last year, assortments were ple,” said Liu. “Fashion week is retailers will enjoy a happy holi- est rates, though they have begun “stale,” even before they hit the all about fashion, the human day season,” said Wells at a news to inch up, as well as low infla- selling floors, in some cases. form and the body. People come conference at the Toys ‘R’ Us flag- tion, rising equity markets, Last year, NRF was off on its from all over the world to see ship in Tuesday. mounting consumer confidence forecast. The trade group initially it. People put so much into “Both the economy and retail with households having more dis- projected holiday sales increasing their appearance, but they sales are picking up momentum. posable income because of with- 4 percent, then revised the fore- don’t realize their health is We expect greater momentum in holding tax cuts and child tax cast to 3.5 percent the day after what’s most important. When the third and fourth quarters.” credit checks. Christmas. Sales actually rose 2.2 someone is diagnosed with can- As far as price promoting, Furthermore, considering the percent, the smallest increase cer, they let go of all material “there will be less of that this year difficulties retailers experienced since NRF started tracking sales items and try to become inter- because of the stronger [economic] last year and through the first half in 1992. Wells said the NRF’s mis- nally more balanced.” environment,” Wells contended. of this year, comparisons should calculations last year stemmed Saks and Mercedes are count- What’s the basis for being so be very easy, she said. “Retail from underestimating deflation ing on plenty of people pitching bullish? Wells said there have sales gains for the 2003 holiday and overestimating the economy. in. Saks will throw open the been “four consecutive months of season will be far better than the According to Tracy Mullin, doors of its Fifth Avenue flag- retail growth, and business in- meager increases retailers expe- president and chief executive of- ship tonight for a launch party vestment saw a decided turn- rienced a year ago,” Wells said. ficer of the NRF, the holiday sea- for more than 10,000 people. around in the second quarter.” Holiday sales in 2002 increased son accounts for 20 to 40 percent That will be followed with a pri- That includes spending by busi- 2.2 percent to $205.6 billion. of a retail sales, while retail sales vate dinner party for 500 at the nesses on equipment and soft- However, rising unemploy- overall account for two-thirds of Four Seasons’ pool room, com- ware, which jumped 8 percent at ment, rising energy costs, geopo- the nation’s economic activity. plete with a dozen pool boys. Demi Moore, Glenda Bailey, Ron and Kelly Meyer, Carolina Herrera Jr. and her sister, PHOTO BY JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Patricia Lansing, will host the JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Harper’s Bazaar-sponsored din- Jamie Tisch and Lucy Liu ner. Guests will be given keys and one will open a $60,000 dia- reproductive cancer research mond pendant and another will centers. Jacqui Lividini, senior unlock a Vespa scooter. Balloon vice president of fashion mer- chances will hold 100 prizes, like chandising and communica- a watch and a Carolina tions, said, “The great thing Herrera fur coat. about this is all the money In addition, the $29 Danskin raised in those communities T-shirt Stella McCartney de- will stay in those communities.” signed and Nicole Kidman wore Meanwhile, Mercedes plans to in ads has been selling out at write a check for $1 million to the Saks. A reorder for 5,000 was re- Key to the Cure through the sales Town cently placed. of specially designed CLK500 Well aware that New Yorkers Cabriolets, including two that are are savvy and barraged with on display under the tents. The marketing images, Liu said the $67,000 cars are being rolled out Key to the Cure is something to at dealerships nationwide.  Hall be involved in. “A lot of people During fashion week, the com- think it’s cool to be standoffish. pany will match its employees’ But cool is really being a part of donations to the Key to the Cure. everything instead of putting Lisa Paulsen, EIF’s president yourself in a little box and not and ceo, said about $10 million looking at anything.” has been spent on advertising for From Sept. 17-20, a percent- the Key to the Cure, with “hun- age of all sales at Saks’ 62 stores dreds of thousands of lives” ex- will be given to local and nation- pected to benefit from the cause. al breast cancer and women’s — Rosemary Feitelberg The shows... The news online at 12:01 am EDT The designers... 6 continents, 11 bureaus, 203 reporters for unmatched coverage Bronstein Settles With Wet Seal The stores... Search the previous five issues of WWD online NEW YORK — Wet Seal Inc. and from the stock distribution. The center of it all. 24/7 access on your desktop, anytime, anywhere its former chief executive, Kathy In addition, Bronstein can Bronstein, have settled all her exercise her 405,000 stock op- claims against the company for tions until June 1, 2005, valued “wrongful termination, gender at about $4.2 million based on discrimination, emotional dis- Tuesday’s closing price of tress,” among other charges — $10.25. Previously, the options and it’s a bonanza for Bronstein. would have been forfeited if According to a company filing, they were not exercised by May Go to WWD.com Bronstein will get $2,169,000, as 10 of this year. well as a retirement plan with a Bronstein, who grew Wet Seal surrender value of $915,657.78 into a national retail force first. insider. authoritative. global. plus 4,422 shares of stock stem- through a series of acquisitions, ming from a bonus plan. She also was abruptly dismissed from will be reimbursed for attorney her job last February after the fees up to $125,000. Taxes from junior chain experienced two the $2,169,000 will be deducted weak quarters in a row. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 39 EB Enters Agreement French Connection Earnings Surge 41% By Samantha Conti markets, where sales rose 16.8 store in Pentagon City, Washing- To Be Sold to Bon-Ton percent to $155.7 million, or 97.9 ton, D.C., and shut two underper- LONDON — Fueled by strength million pounds, from $133 mil- forming stores. U.S. wholesale Continued from page 4 terms of its earlier merger in the U.K. and Europe and im- lion, or 83.8 million pounds. business has continued to be dif- Bon-Ton operates 72 stores, agreement with Wright, Elder- proved performance in North In North America, sales fell 2.6 ficult, the company said. principally on the East Coast, Beerman said it will pay America, French Connection’s percent to $35 million, or 21.9 mil- Licensing income increased while Elder-Beerman’s 68 Wright a break-up fee of no first-half profits rocketed 40.9 lion pounds, from $35.8 million, 55.6 percent to $2.2 million, or 1.4 units are centered in the more than $4 million. percent. or 22.5 million pounds, which the million pounds, from $1.4 mil- Midwest. Richard Hastings, credit Net income advanced to $14.8 company said was due entirely to lion, or 900,000 pounds, thanks in Shares of Bon-Ton on Tues- economist at Bernard Sands, million from $10.5 million in the the weakening of the U.S. dollar part to the success of the French day closed at $8.50, up $1.01 or observed that the merger repre- first half of last year. Dollar fig- versus the pound. In the rest of Connection fragrance, which the 13.5 percent, in Nasdaq trading. sents a continuation of recent ures have been converted from the world, sales decreased 15.4 company said was generating Elder-Beerman saw its shares trends. Low interest rates, the pounds at current exchange, as percent to $3.5 million, or 2.2 mil- sales ahead of expectations. dip by 17 cents, or 2.1 percent, search by investment banks for French Connection reported prof- lion pounds, from $4.1 million, or Marks said the second half to close at $7.94 on the Nasdaq. higher yields, the improve- its of 9.3 million pounds versus 6.6 2.6 million pounds. looked promising. In the U.K. Even with their decline on ments in the stock markets million pounds in last year’s half. Tuesday, Elder-Beerman since April and “low stock valu- Sales during the six months French Connection chairman Stephen shares have enjoyed a remark- ations especially for depart- ended July 31 rose 12 percent to able run-up since the store ment stores have fueled the $194 million, or 122 million Marks noted that he wasn’t interested in said in May that it was engag- basis for [a] series of major pounds, from $173 million, or ing in exclusive talks with an mergers in the retailing and ap- 108.9 million pounds. selling the company to private investors, unidentified party, which parel vendor arenas.” “The second half looks prom- would turn out to be Wright. The merger also demon- ising and I’m very happy with the as so many U.K. retailers — including Shares moved from $3.34 to strates, according to Hastings, picture, all in all,” Stephen Marks, $4.70 on the initial flurry of “the need to increase buying chairman of French Connection, Selfridges, Debenhams and New Look news in mid-May and have ef- volume to gain access to the said in a telephone interview. fectively increased 137.7 per- largest and most efficient He noted that he wasn’t inter- — have recently chosen to do. cent in just four months. global sourcing partners, re- ested in selling the company to An Ohio-based firm called duce distribution costs private investors, as so many U.K. The total retail selling space and Europe, retail sales were EB Acquisition that expressed through consolidated distribu- retailers — including Selfridges, in the U.K. and Europe increased up 3 percent in the first six interest in the store just days tion systems and a perceived Debenhams and New Look — by 21.1 percent to 207,000 square weeks, with 13,000 additional after Elder revealed it was opportunity to build stronger have recently chosen to do. feet from 171,000 square feet dur- square feet of selling space having the exclusive acquisi- market presence for the mid- “We’re very comfortable in the ing the period. planned for the period. tion talks, made an offer of dle-market consumer.” position that we’re in right now,” In addition to the volume in- In North America, retail sales $5.50 a share in early June. In addition, Hastings noted, Marks said. creases, the company said it saw have rose by 9 percent in the first A week later, Wright was re- the merger points toward addi- For the first six months, oper- a spike in the level of full-price, six weeks of the second half, with vealed as the previously tional consolidation in the de- ating profit rose 24.8 percent to in-season business, as well as a store set to open in Houston. unidentified suitor when it partment store segment where $20.8 million, or 13.1 million continued emphasis on cost con- Marks is upbeat about U.S. whole- made an offer of $6 a share. It top-line growth is limited and pounds, from $16.7 million, or tainment. These helped boost op- sale business there, too. “We ex- appeared that the offer, which expansion is generally expen- 10.5 million pounds. Gross profit erating margin in the U.K. and pect in-season orders to generate had the support of Byron sive with long periods until rose 12.9 percent to $103 million, European business to 15 percent growth for the second half of the “Bud” Bergren and other mem- stores pay for themselves. or 64.7 million pounds, from $91 of sales from 14 percent. year,” he said. Marshall Field, bers of senior management, For Elder-Beerman, the lat- million, or 57.3 million pounds. In North America, retail sales, which opened its refurbished would stand until Bon-Ton bid est move marks a significant All of the sales growth came reported in dollars only, rose 7.9 Chicago flagship last month, has $7 a share at the end of July. chapter in its history. The de- from retail and wholesale busi- percent to $24.7 million from dedicated 3,000 square feet of the Wright raised the ante to $7.05 partment store was in bank- nesses in the U.K. and European $22.9 million. The firm opened a ground floor to French Connection. last week, followed in short ruptcy from 1995 through 1997. order by a $7.25 offer from Despite an earlier move by Bon-Ton and what appears to shareholders to shake up the be Wright’s final offer of $7.80 store’s management, and de- a share last Friday. spite the ongoing takeover Bergren and chief finan- drama this year, it has been Escada USA Appoints President cial officer Edward Tomechko able to maintain relatively sta- were expected to become mi- ble sales trends since its exit NEW YORK — Less than a week selected Larry to take Escada Escada USA was intent on find- nority owners of the store had from bankruptcy proceedings. after Caryn A. Lerner exited as forward at this critical juncture ing a merchandising chief who Wright succeeded in purchas- Retailers, Hastings said, one of the co-presidents of because…he shares our vision of would be charged with unifying ing the store. Wright Holdings tend to have difficulties sur- Escada’s U.S. division, the com- a seamlessly integrated interna- the operations of the German is owned solely by Marathon viving their post-bankruptcy pany named Lawrence C. DeParis tional luxury brand committed to company and its U.S. subsidiary Fund Limited Partnership IV, days. Yet, Elder-Beerman’s president and chief operating of- outstanding service.” — someone to cover a greater a private investment fund management was successful ficer of Escada USA. DeParis, 46, continues to be scope than Lerner, as reported. managed by Goldner Hawn in “maintaining the enter- His appointment comes at a based at Escada USA’s offices This year, the Munich-based Johnson & Morrison. Wright prise value of Elder-Beerman time when the German company here and reports to Ley. DeParis designer label said it would not received written commit- for more than five years post- is analyzing its overall business joined the company in 1986 and reach its profit targets for 2003. ments from Marathon and af- bankruptcy, an impressive ac- practices, following a difficult held several senior executive Last year, the company posted filiates of Fleet Financial complishment especially dur- period for the brand. All opera- positions until he left in 1997 to $840.6 million in sales, down from Group to fund the merger and ing a time of tough competi- tions are being given the once- serve as senior vice president $977.4 million in 2001. Escada provide working capital. tion in regions resulting from over to try to find potential cost- and chief financial officer of chalked up its soft performance Calls to Michael Sweeney, the expansion of Kohl’s and cutting measures. Calvin Klein. He rejoined in recent seasons to repercus- managing director at Goldner various specialty apparel In a statement, founder, chair- Escada a year later as co-presi- sions from the war in Iraq, politi- Hawn Johnson & Morrison, for chains,” the economist said. man and chief executive dent and chief operating officer cal tension in North Korea and comment were not returned. — With contributions Wolfgang Ley praised DeParis and a member of the board. SARS, noting that Asia had been In accordance with the from Arnold J. Karr for being “able to make tough de- Prior to Friday’s announce- one of its major markets. cisions.” Ley also said, “We have ment, industry sources said — Rosemary Feitelberg

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Christian Dior’s accessories floor.

Continued from page 4 crystal display. also being a successful retailer and showing our product off to The fine jewelry store, which was located next door at 17 its best advantage,” said Sabo. East 57th Street, was folded into the women’s shop, while a Dior Ye t the aesthetic of the space alone wasn’t the company’s men’s store will open in the former space this fall. An internal only impetus for undergoing a redesign. The burgeoning shoe stairway will connect both stores. The women’s ready-to-wear collection was one of the catalysts for it, as the original space collections, including wedding dresses, lingerie, swimwear and wasn’t equipped to handle such an expanded selection. cosmetics, are on the second floor. Galliano’s Asian-in- Last year, the shoe business increased sixfold over the spired print dresses in silk organza create a mélange previous year, according to Sabo, and this season it of Pop-inspired color on the floor. expects that increase to double. The company is set to open additional Bestsellers include bags from the following Christian Dior stores in the U.S. A Palm Beach collections: Hardcore, Street Chic, Lady Dior and store, as well as an expansion of its Bal Harbour the requisite single saddle. Signature Dior looks shop, will open in October. A Las Vegas bou- for fall are merchandised throughout the store, tique in the Bellagio Hotel is scheduled to open like the Saddle bag purses, crocodile “Street in mid-November, while locations in Honolulu Chic” bags, printed platform mules and stilettos and St. Barth’s are slated for December. A bou- with tiny padlocks. tique at the Americana Manhasset opened last The ground floor is laid out to house a full range month, as well. of accessories, such as handbags, shoes and sunglass- Retail prices range from $550 to $3,000 for hand- es. A fine jewelry alcove featuring elaborate designs by bags; $350 to $450 for shoes; $750 to $950 for boots; Victoire de Castellane is in the back of the store. The nook is $3,000 to $6,000 for evening gowns; $550 to $1,500 for tops; $500 replete with sliding glass doors for customer privacy. to $1,600 for skirts, and $600 to $2,000 for trousers. Noting customer traffic issues to the second floor in the past, The bulk of Dior’s business is retail based, at 75 percent, Sabo was intent on creating an interesting and inviting compo- while the remaining 25 percent is wholesale. The label is sold nent to the space. So a modern, floating staircase was built, at major retailers in the U.S., like Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman along with a floor-to-ceiling sunglass unit and a two-story liquid Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

The revamped stairway. A dollhouse display in the fine jewelery alcove. The ready-to-wear floor. An Asian-inspired gown.

August after a second quarter hit hard by the Iraq war and SARS. “The trend continues to be positive,” he said. “September is starting well worldwide.…Asia is Christian Dior Couture Profits Up 27% recovering.” PARIS — Aided by fast growth in women’s footwear and its men’s business, Christian Dior Couture Second-quarter sales inched up 0.4 percent at Christian Dior Couture, which comprises the saw operating profits grow 27 percent in the six months ended June 30. couture, ready-to-wear, accessories and retail businesses. In the six months, sales advanced 10 Profit figures for the fashion house are pinpointed annually, but the percentage was disclosed percent, to $264.6 million, and were ahead 20 percent at constant exchange, as reported. in tandem with first-half results for Christian Dior SA, parent of the Dior fashion house and luxury Toledano was slated to arrive in New York this morning to attend opening festivities for the re- giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. vamped Dior store on 57th Street. In the interview, he stressed that Dior would continue to ex- Net income at the group rose 33.6 percent to $179.4 million from $134.3 million. Operating pand its global retail network, with a flurry of openings in the U.S. this fall and winter. profits rose 4.3 percent to $993.1 million from $952.5 million a year ago. Openings are scheduled for Palm Beach in October, the Bellagio hotel in Las Vegas in Dollar figures are converted from euros at current exchange. In local currency, the firm report- November and Waikiki, Hawaii, in December. A Dior Homme unit on 57th Street, at the base of ed profits of 159 million euros in the first half of 2003 versus 119 million euros a year ago. the LVMH tower, is also slated for a December opening. Encouraged by more than 35 percent Sales dropped 10.3 percent to $6.16 billion, or 5.46 billion euros, from $6.8 billion, or 6.03 growth in Dior men’s wear, designed by Hedi Slimane, Toledano said he plans to open more loca- billion euros, in line with LVMH’s first-half sales, which were reported earlier. tions in the U.S., including a Rodeo Drive location in Los Angeles. In an interview, Dior Couture president Sidney Toledano said sales rebounded in July and — Miles Socha WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 41 Wilbur Ross in Deal for Cone Mills Continued from page one their balance sheet.” the steel industry, would put together two In a separate interview, John Bakane, mills that were once among the nation’s chairman and ceo of Cone, said, largest. The new entity would be the “Strategically, from an operations stand- largest denim producer in North point, this makes the most sense in the America, sources said. world. It will provide a first-class denim But Cone first has to file for bankruptcy. operation.” In a statement revealing the deal, Cone was founded in 1891 by brothers Greensboro, N.C.-based Cone said it had Moses and Ceasar Cone, as a sales missed a $4.1 million interest payment on agency for textile mills. In 1895, the com- its bonds that had been due Sept. 15, pany built its first mill in Greensboro, though the terms of the loan give it a 30- calling it Proximity Manufacturing Co. to day grace period. The mill said it expects indicate the shift in the textile industry to file a Chapter 11 bankruptcy petition from its traditional New England roots to “within the next several days.” If the deal the Southern states where cotton was is approved by the bankruptcy court, Cone grown. The company went public in 1951 said it expects to close the sale within and was taken private in 1984 to fight off three months. a hostile takeover attempt. The mill re- While the company did not disclose turned to the Big Board in 1992 and is the purchase price, it said in the state- one of the handful of domestic mills to ment, “It is not expected that the pro- retain a listing on that exchange, though ceeds of the proposed transaction will be late Tuesday, the NYSE said it would “Cone is, in my view, a pretty well-run Cone Mills chief John Bakane said, “I wish we sufficient to satisfy the company’s se- move to delist the stock. company,” said investor Wilbur Ross who could have executed our strategy…But you’ve cured indebtedness. As a result, there is Bakane was named ceo of Cone in 1998 previously bought Burlington Industries. got to play the damn hand you were dealt.” not expected to be any recovery for the and charged with turning the company company’s shareholders.” around. Last year, he succeeded in stem- viable for the long term.” risen dramatically in recent months. Just A source close to the situation said the ming the flow of red ink, and Cone posted At the New York headquarters of last year, he was known primarily by ceo’s proposed purchase price was less than $11.4 million in net income after seven Galey & Lord Inc., which is in Chapter of distressed mills in whose debt he was $100 million. consecutive years of losses. Sales last year 11, chairman and ceo Arthur C. Wiener investing. But after he successfully chal- According to filings with the Securities were $445.6 million. However, in the first said, “Consolidation is part of the indus- lenged a February bid by Warren Buffett’s and Exchange Commission, on June 29, six months of 2003, sales slipped 14.3 per- try today, and I wish them well.” Berkshire Hathaway for Burlington, he got Cone’s long-term debt came to $99.2 mil- cent and the firm slipped back into the The cancellation of Cone’s shares is the industry’s attention. lion, with total liabilities amounting to red. Bakane blamed a surge in imports. likely to raise the ire of some sharehold- He has since appeared on the lobbying $238 million. The balance sheet showed “I wish we could have executed our ers, including dissident director Marc scene, most recently joining forces with a $327.3 million in assets, making stock- strategy” and restructured the company Kozberg, who is currently engaged in a group of textile associations that are lobby- holders’ equity $89.3 million. without a bankruptcy filing, Bakane said. proxy battle with Cone and — along with ing the Bush administration on China policy. Cone shares did not change hands in “But you’ve got to play the damn hand other investors holding a 9.5 percent In January, Cone and Ross agreed to a New York Stock Exchange trading you were dealt.” stake in the mill — is seeking to have a convertible-notes financing deal intended Tuesday, remaining at $1.08 for a market In particular, Bakane and Ross said a new slate of directors elected. Kozberg to help Cone build a new denim factory in capitalization of $28 million. surge of Vietnamese-made jeans that said late Tuesday he was preparing to re- Mexico. That deal was harshly criticized In a phone interview Tuesday, Ross, Cone had alleged were made of Chinese spond to the offer in an SEC filing, but de- by Kozberg, the dissident Cone director. who serves as chairman and chief execu- denim had hurt the company’s results. clined to comment, citing legal reasons. Competitors at other denim mills also tive officer of New York investment con- While Commerce Department import According to Cone’s preliminary questioned the need for additional denim cern W.L. Ross & Co., said he thought data does not address jeans directly, fig- proxy statement filed last month, the capacity in North America, at a time when Cone would be a good fit with Burlington. ures show that imports of women’s and other major shareholder is Dimensional most fabric mills are seeing sales slip. As reported, Ross has agreed to pay $614 girls’ cotton pants from that country for Fund Advisors Inc., a Santa Monica, In addition to the Mexican joint ven- million to buy Burlington out of bankrupt- the year ended in July came to $407.3 Calif., firm with an 8 percent stake in ture, Cone operates five U.S. plants — cy, in a deal expected to close next month. million, 13 times their level of a year ear- Cone. Bakane holds a 1.5 percent stake, four in North Carolina and one in South Referring to Burlington, he said, “Its lier. Vietnam’s exports to the U.S. have and recently retired chairman Dewey Carolina. It has about 3,200 employees. product lines are very complementary to exploded since the two nations estab- Trogdon holds a 1.9 percent stake. Ross said combining the two firms, those of the Parras Cone [joint venture] lished trading relations. Sources said one of the questions raised both of which are based in Greensboro, Mexican operation of Cone Mills. We be- Mill executives called the combination by Ross’ move is whether he’s considering would call for some cost-cutting moves. lieve that the textile industry is in need of of Cone and Burlington a logical move. making other acquisitions — he created “There is also a lot of duplicitive over- some degree of consultation. It is easier to “From my perspective, ideally we’d International Steel Group, a Cleveland- head,” he said. moderate your production if you have mul- like to see capacity retired,” said Keith based company his firm is in the process of Executives at competing firms said one tiple facilities with different cost struc- Hull, president of marketing and sales at taking public, out of the wreckage of three of the questions on observers’ minds was tures and manufacturing characteristics. Graniteville, S.C.-based Avondale Mills bankrupt steel companies. which executives would survive the merg- “This is not a Pillowtex, in that there’s Inc. “We still think we’re an overcapaci- Asked whether he’d consider other tex- er. Few of the top officials at International no earthly need for Cone to be liquidat- tied industry. But short of that, if there’s tile deals, Ross said, “Yes. I believe that Steel come from the predecessor compa- ed,” Ross continued, referring to the de- some combination that brings good assets one of the ways that American industries nies, and when Ross’ bid for Burlington funct home fabrics manufacturer. “Cone today, that’s good for all of us. I believe are going to have to cope with this foreign was approved, he handed out surveys to is, in my view, a pretty well-run company. all those assets in both Cone and competition is by consolidation.” top executives that asked, among other There is a problem that they have with Burlington were assets that were fairly Ross’ profile in the textile industry has things, if they wished to keep their jobs.

“Anytime you have to do this, you get a disruption, it hurts your productivity,” he said. Carolina Mills Brace for Isabel’s Worst “You’re not able to focus on the things you’re able to do, like im- By Scott Malone we’re trying to ship everything “50-50” chance the firm would up a few days’ inventory of raw proving product quality and get- scheduled to go out this week on have to shut down its facility, materials and shipping out all ting new products to customers.” NEW YORK — Along the Caro- Monday, Tuesday and which employs about 400, for completed merchandise. New York-based Texfi lina coastline, textile companies Wednesday, since Thursday is part of the storm. The factory, which employs Marketing operates a dye house on Tuesday were racing to fill very uncertain and Friday, who “We’re watching very closely about 1,100 in a building that in Edenton, N.C., on the shores orders and bracing for the possi- knows,” said Jim Chesnutt, presi- and have our team standing by. occupies 30 acres of land, is of the Albermale Sound, em- bility of plant shutdowns as dent and chief executive officer We will do whatever we need to,” about 60 miles from the shores ploying about 160 people. Hurricane Isabel continued its of National Spinning Co., a yarn he said. “We want to be certain of Cape Fear. President Andrew Parise said march up through the Atlantic. producer located on a river in that our employees are home and Amos said when deciding the company is expecting to Executives said the biggest Washington, N.C. safe as can be with their families.” whether to temporarily close have to suspend operations at variable they were facing was The National Weather Service At a Kinston, N.C., polyester the facility, “What we do is, that site for about a day. the stability of the region’s in an update released at 5 p.m. plant operated by Invista — for- while keeping first and fore- “They will lose power, proba- power grid. While the low-slung, Tuesday said a hurricane watch merly DuPont Textiles & Interiors most the safety of our employ- bly,” he said, explaining the plant solid construction typical of tex- was in effect from Little River — site manager Robert Amos said ees in mind, we will try to make has typically lost power in past tile mills tends to allow them to Inlet, S.C., through Chincoteague, his team had moved into hurri- the decision at the last possible storms. “Our plan right now is to weather storms without much Va. Isabel was about 570 miles cane-anticipation mode. safe minute. A lot can happen if run right through midnight damage, they said the threat of south-southeast of Cape Hatteras, “We have a hurricane manual you buy yourself more time.” [today] and then close Thursday.” having equipment suddenly shut N.C., and the maximum sustained that we follow,” he said, explain- However, given the complicat- Parise said he believes the down because of an electrical wind speed had dropped to 105 ing that preparation measures ed nature of polyester extrusion, threat of a power outage makes failure might make it advisable miles an hour, making it a class include everything from ensur- he said it takes about two shifts, a preemptive shutdown the for mills to close as a precau- two storm. Isabel had been rated ing there’s no loose material or 16 hours, to close the plant in safest approach: “If you get shut tionary measure. class five, the most destructive, outside the plant that could turn an orderly manner. He said off in the middle of a run and “We’ve been in communica- over the weekend. into a projectile to more mun- Invista tries to avoid shutting its have goods left in the dye ma- tion with our customers, and Chesnutt said there was a dane matters, such as building facilities if at all possible. chines, it’s a mess.” 42 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 WWD West

Wal-Mart Supercenters are being fought in California.

Roadblocks in California

Continued from page 4 would create wage wars by forcing other businesses to “I’m all for free enterprise and I have nothing ● In Inglewood, near Los Angeles, the city council adopt- cut labor costs to compete. He’s supporting an ordi- against size per se,” he said, noting the city approved ed an ordinance that limits the interior square footage of nance currently being drafted by the City Attorney’s the Supercenter this year. “But I believe smaller com- a superstore that can be devoted to groceries, or, in other Office in Los Angeles County to prevent Supercenters munities are chasing sales tax dollars and sacrificing words, a Supercenter. The city repealed the ordinance from opening there. He cited a study done by the San land-use policy decisions.” based on 9,000 signatures Wal-Mart collected last year Diego County Taxpayers Association predicting that an Indeed, Wal-Mart’s power with county governments and here, too, voters will decide the outcome at the polls. influx of big-box stores in the area would result in an is among the chief concerns of opponents. In many ● In San Marcos, near San Diego, the city council ap- annual decline in wages and benefits of between $105 cases, small cities subsidize stores to bump up sales tax proved rezoning for a 139,000-square-foot Supercenter, million and $221 million and an increase of $9 million revenues and create jobs. but opponents are gathering signatures to put the deci- in public health costs. “In some places, it’s the biggest source of revenue,” sion before voters. There is only one Kmart supercenter in California — noted Amaha Kassa, co-director of the East Bay Alliance Wal-Mart officials have denounced the ordinances as in Carson, near Los Angeles — and there are no Target for a Sustainable Economy in Oakland. “But at what “anticompetitive and anti-consumer” and plan a vigor- super centers. One source suggested that Wal-Mart is in cost? Small businesses get driven out and these are the ous fight. Supercenters have been extremely successful residents who really put money back into the communi- for the retailer because shoppers generally visit super- Wal-Mart is like the tornado ty. They’re not sending profits back to Arkansas.” markets more often than discount stores. Moreover, the Greg Pettis, mayor pro tem of Cathedral City, said his stores are open 24 hours a day. The company now oper- bearing“ down on a trailer park. It community is now smarting from a lack of small busi- ates 1,258 Supercenters in 43 states, up from 441 in 28 nesses that a traditional-sized Wal-Mart drove out some states five years ago. scares the hell out of everybody. 10 years ago. That unit is now slated to close when the With more than $8 billion in profits on sales of $245 bil- nearby Palm Desert Supercenter opens, taking with it lion last year, analysts deem Wal-Mart a formidable oppo- — Jack Kyser, Los Angeles EDC” 150 jobs. “Wal-Mart has a horrible history of working nent with deep pockets. In Contra Costa and Inglewood with the communities and moving on to what they per- counties, Wal-Mart has spent as much as $200,000 to col- the hot seat because of its size and its grocery store ceive will be a better profit margin,” said Pettis. “They lect enough signatures to reverse the decisions. component, as well as the large number of giant combo said [the Cathedral City unit] doesn’t fit their corporate “Time and time again, our customers have told elect- stores it plans for the state. model, but it did 10 years ago when we gave them the ed officials they don’t approve of restrictions on Wal- Wal-Mart has not announced plans for a Supercenter [approval for the] land.” Mart or any other retailer for that matter,” said a Wal- in Los Angeles, but the spokesman said the company Cities investing in retail for the purpose of economic Mart spokesman. would “continue to look throughout the state for oppor- improvement does not make sense, according to Greg It’s not the first time the welcome mat has been left tunities to best serve our customers.” LeRoy, executive director of Washington-based labor advo- in the closet for the world’s largest company. Since 1988, Icaza believes Los Angeles would be among the more cacy group Good Jobs First. “In my opinion, there’s a very when the first Supercenter hit the market in attractive markets to Wal-Mart. “It looks like we’re going small number of cases where a Supercenter would make Washington, Mo., about 200 communities in the U.S. to have a major confrontation,” he said. sense,” he said. “[For example,] in a depressed inner city have fought their construction, citing similar problems. Kyser pointed out that even if Supercenters are not that’s demonstrably underserved. Except for places that “Wal-Mart is like the tornado bearing down on a trail- allowed in Los Angeles County, there are nearby cities are growing very quickly, retail is already saturating mar- er park. It scares the hell out of everybody,” said Jack like Glendale and Burbank that could welcome the re- kets. Retail does not pay its employees enough to create Kyser, chief economist of the Los Angeles Economic tailer. “Wal-Mart could surround Los Angeles and, with new wealth. And that doesn’t create a ripple effect.” Development Corp. noting the nonunionized retailer is its low prices, could suck sales out of the city,” he said. Wal-Mart’s spokesman shrugs off these concerns, not- creating headaches for unionized supermarket chains. Palm Desert City Councilman Jim Ferguson, who ing adversaries have agendas that are not always in the Rick Icaza, president of the United Food and voted against a Supercenter in his district, fears in- best interest of communities. “Quite simply, it’s organ- Commercial Workers Union, said the issue is not as sim- creased traffic to the store would affect air quality in ized labor that’s trying to limit competition and restrict ple as “union versus nonunion.” He believes Wal-Mart the Southern California city. consumer choice,” he said. WWD, WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 43 Pink Poodle: Mixing Business and Pleasure Cordero Turns Spotlight on Self NEW YORK — Loidian Cordero By Evan Clark design, then price and finally, always enjoyed being a stylist, size, she said. but her latest gig has become NEW YORK — Kellwood’s latest “Poodle is really about novelty her passion. line was launched, not with a and embellishment at a price,” The former celebrity and mighty roar, but with the yelp of noted Agnello. “It has a little bit fashion stylist is stepping into a a poodle. of edge to it. It’s trendy without designer role by launching After a series of teaser adds, being intimidating.” Cordero, a line of sexy day and

Pink Poodle finally revealed it- CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY Spunky embellishments to the cocktail dresses. The line makes self to retailers last month with tops include beads and charms its debut Thursday in a presen- a barking novelty card that also arranged to look like a necklace, tation at Villa Giardinetto at 735 trumpeted “a colorful array of grommets on sleeves or shoulder Second Avenue here. fine-gauge knit tops…guaran- straps and embroidery. Cordero, a native New Yorker teed to make you feel pampered The line is meant to be whim- of Puerto Rican descent, used to and pretty.” sical, flippant and fun, while style J.Lo on press junkets for The 45-piece line is set to hit still fitting appropriately. her music and movies, worked selling floors in February, with Sizing is an area of particu- for advertising agency Les- retail prices of $48, $54 and $58. lar focus for the line, given its pata/Decaro and most recently “This line is about a mixture target customer, who ranges styled swimsuit calendars for of business and fun,” said Susan from 40 to 60 years old. “The Daniela Pestova and Heidi Heidi Klum in Loidian Cordero. Agnello, vice president of sales misses’ customer today doesn’t Klum. After befriending Klum and merchandising for the Pink want to look misses’ or feel through work, the model agreed charmeuse, silk crepe and Poodle brand, in an interview at misses’, but she has a misses’ to pose wearing a Cordero dress matte jersey. the firm’s 1411 Broadway show- body,” said Agnello. for the newly formed line’s pro- “I started to design dresses room. Pink Poodle is part of the “This age [group] created the motional material. out of a need for clothes for my- Kellwood New England divi- junior market,” she said, and it’s The line is comprised of flir- self,” Cordero said in a recent sion, which also includes David Kellwood’s latest line, Pink Poodle. comfortable with apparel that ty styles casual enough to be interview. “I went shopping and Brooks and Northern Isles, and has a sense of style and flair. worn during the day but bold found things that were beautiful licensed lines for Emme and Poodle is by no means timid, Kellwood said the line would enough for night, with details but too high-priced. I decided to Bill Burns. with hues including mango, bow in roughly 800 department such as ruching and twisting. make beautiful dresses that Agnello said the first thing lime, periwinkle, black, white store and specialty doors. This The dresses will wholesale for weren’t so expensive so other that attracts a woman in a store and, of course, pink. should drive annual volume to about $200 and are made of fab- girls could afford to dress well.” is color, an area in which Pink After color, shoppers look for $50 million within three years. rics including silk jersey, silk —Joshua Greene

Reflect - True Custom Beauty www.reflect.com JUST MANAGEMENT SERVICES Marketing Manager Apparel Rectuiters Nationwide Retail Designer/Visual Director Marketing Manager -Responsible for design and execution of Mens Designers Major mens classic sportswear company in Northwest Loca- all marketing mix elements including marketing strategy, tion seeks two senior designers with 8 years experience in advertising, promotions, sampling, pricing/sizing and commu- sweaters and wovens. Paid relocation. 75K. nication. Ideal candidate will have 4-6 years experience in [email protected] prestige beauty industry. Sales: Retail Designer/Visual Director - Design retail environments Los Angels based girls wear manufacturer seeks senior sales including layout, signage, print collateral and displays. Ideal executive calling on Sears, Target, Kohls, K-Mart, etc. $100- West Coast Regional Sales Manager candidate will create concepts and execute using technical 150K. [email protected] Join the sales team at John Hardy one of the most refined design skills and have 5 years experience. quality jewelry and luxury giftware companies in the world. Merchandise manager: We are seeking a California based N/W Regional Sales Positions are located in San Francisco, CA. Los Angeles based girls sportswear company seeks candidate Manager with experience and relationships with independent Send resumes to: [email protected] or [F] 415-369-4801 with 7-10 years expereince in merchadising, pricing, fabric retailers and specialty stores in jewelry/ giftware/luxury development and supervising design team. $100-150K. goods industries. The successful candidate will have a min. of [email protected] 3 years experience in business development, an understand- ing of retail math/analysis, excellent computer skills, and a HEAD PATTERNMAKER "Just management"800-544-5878 passion/history for developing strong customer relationships. Please send resume in strictest confidence to: Well est’d moderate women’s apparel firm seeks Head Email: hr@john Hardy.com, Patternmaker with proficient Gerber experience for design/ then fax as backup to: 908-236-7465 production samples. Must be fit expert and able to make first samples from designers’ sketches. Also must manage small sample room, be highly organized and a team player. Candi- date must be willing to relocate to SF. Salary negotiable and we offer benefits. Fax resume: [415] 558-7155 or Call: [415] 558-7158 ANONAME JEANS Los Angeles Based TOP DOLLAR In-house SALES full-time. FOR RETURNS,IR’S Skills: aggressive, strong comm OR CLOSEOUTS & follow-up. Base sal. + comm. WALT ADAMS INC Email resume w/ sal reqs: T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 [email protected] [email protected] 44 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

ALLSTAR TKG & WAREHOUSE Import/Export, Dist., GOH & Cartons We Label & Ship - US Customs Whse Master/Visa 718-945-3500 all-startrucking.com CALL US FIRST COTTON, RAYON, NYLON, SILK, For Your Apparel Closeouts CASHMERE! Fine Gauge sweaters! $$$$$ We Pay Cash! $$$$$ Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Kohl’s, PATTERN/SAMPLES 213-741-9705 Jones approved Mfr. in China. E-mail for more info: [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast CLOSEOUT WANTED work. Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808 Denim/Velour/Fleece/Outerwear/etc. Cut/Sew/Ship Men’s/ Junior/ Missy - Any Quantity Small or big lots. We do markers and Right price/right item (212) 594-5755 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, samples too. Call 973-266-0901 PRODUCTIONS DESIGN ASSISTANT PERMANENT PLEATING All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Elastic Smocking, Ruffling Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Junior denim company seeking Vol Production/Competitive Pricing DESIGN ASSISTANT- 2-3 yrs Automatic Trimming (212) 629-8388 experience, technical knowlegde, *ALL Off-Price* WE WANT YOUR ORDERS! PATTERNS/ SAMPLES detailed and organized. Excel/ Velour-Rib-Lycra-Jersey Large China mfr. seeks new customers. Photoshop knowledge a must. Three by Three 201-861-0033 We have 10 yrs. exp. w/Walmart, K-mart, PRODUCTIONS Illustrator and/or Freehand experi- JC Penney’s orders. Large Volume! Call (212) 268-9126 Velour-Fleece Please call @ [646] 269-9694 ence a must. French Terry Lycra+reg Fax to : (646) 383-8285 Drake Fabrics Please indicate Ref’ #SONDA 718-389-8902 PATTERNS/SAMPLES PRODUCTION Specializing in small productions. Sam- ples, duplicates, patterns. Full service DESIGNER shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Ladies import co. seeks Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Attn: Jean Companies! exp’ddesigner to work direct- No Lot Too Big or Too Small. VERTICAL DENIM FACTORY Call CLOTHES-OUT: LOOKING TO JOINT VENTURE ly w/ our customers to cre- (937) 898-2975 WITH ESTABLISHED OR Product Development Services ate a new line & work on new UP & COMING JEAN COMPANY. (PDM) Complete Tech Packages - Samples product devel. (specifically lg E-mail IG: [email protected] (CAD) Patterns - Grading - Markers sizes w/ an emphasis on Fabric/Trims Sourcing Please Call Yaffy - (212) 764-3109 dresses). Must have good merchandising & comm skills, + exp working with factories JOBBER/EXPORTER overseas. Min 5 yrs exp. Fax We buy better goods. All categories. Immediate $$. Please call 212-290-2336 resume to Peter 212.921.1492

DESIGNER You must specialize in Missy rendezvous Sweaters/Cut & Sew. 10 OUTSTANDING DESIGNERS years experience. Excellent AT THE CENTER OF FASHION Pay and Benefits. Email Resume to: Showing at Le Parker [email protected] Meridian 118 W. 57th Street, NYC September 28, 29, 30, 2003 9AM - 6 PM DAILY ADMINISTRATIVE Buyer Registration in the Lobby ASSISTANT Account Executive is looking for an Showing Immediate Holiday, individual with excellent computer skills. Responsibilities include Resort and Spring 2004 working on Wal-Mart spreadsheets and Contact: Joan McGee quotes. Must be detail oriented and W 39th St 2-20,000Ft Great $ 8246 Coash Road good with numbers. High Ceilings - Great Light Sarasota, FL 34241 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 2000 + 4000 Ft Pre Builts T: 941.926.0465 or Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Admin Since 1967 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com 941.906.8434 W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN*SALES*MERCH ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 A/P BOOKKEEPER Well est’d Co. is looking for A/P Book- keeper with 2 yrs. experience. Knowl- Long Island edge of real world and all phases of A/P. Please fax resume, attn. Isaac @ Kitchen-Gift Store (212) 685-6627 Live Your Dream Now ! Successful 14 yr-old Kitchen-Gift Store business in Nassau County. Includes inventory, fixtures, equipment. Listed at $180,00, but lets talk! Call for fact ARTIST sheet or to set up an appointment: Established infantswear manufacturer 516-354-7618 (owner) Evenings seeks artist. Must have firm knowl- ATTN: RETAILERS...! edge of Photoshop & Illustrator. Must *How to Compete with the Majors? have exp. w/ repeats & applique / em- *Use the Buying Services of broidery. Westchester location. Please RICHARD ROSENBLOOM ASSOC. Profitable!...Interested? fax resume to MERCHANDISING @ in the Small Domestic Outerwear Producer/ (914) 428-0610 NEW YORK APPAREL MARKET Mfr. looking to retire after 35 years. Experienced - Professional - Dilligent! Make an offer. Fax: 973-614-1099 NO FEES - NO RETAINERS To Increase Your Sales & Profits Assistant Designer Call: 561-659-1811 Gerson & Gerson, Inc, seeks talented assistant designer for girl’s infant thru 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant 7-12 dress line. Excellent Illustrator 10 Best Deals On The Avenue &Photoshop 7 skills are req’d & good 3860 sq , 16 wnds, terrace, lite, high flr communication skills. Good graphic 1407 BROADWAY sense needed to develop plaids, prints SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Will Divide/ Will Build To Suit Fully Renovated Bldg. and appliques. 2 yrs experienced req’d. TREBOR MGMT Fax/Email resume & salary reqmnts: Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Also from 511-4258 sq, move in condition Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Attn: J. Olivero 212-244-6794 APPAREL JOB BOARD [email protected] Job Seekers view the ads and post SALES ASSISTANT your resume online. Employers post 226 W. 37th BROADWAY 37-38th Sts your job openings & view resumes online. 5600 SqFt 1384 BWAY Fashion hosiery company looking www.appareljobboard.com Assistant Spec Tech GREAT LIGHT * FULL FLOORS for very strong sales assistant Childrenswear Company seeks Spec IDEAL FOR SHWRM/OFC/DESIGN working with sales exec. Comput- Tech experienced in fitting, specs, FASHION CORE BERNSTEIN RE A "HOT" TICKET er and math skills a must along comments for Girls and Boys division. Richard Price 212-594-1414x265 RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH Should have working knowledge of PRICED RIGHT!! with desire to advance in sales. Exclusive to the Fashion Industry overseas factories and grading. Must Minimum 5 years experience in Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 have knowledge of Outlook and Excel. 24 East 23rd St FANTASTIC OPPTY!! Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Corporate loft. Wood floors, brick walls, Take Immed Possession selling. Company benefits. Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 skylights, overlooks park. Floors 2200 of YOUR OWN FLOOR Fax: 609-448-8248 sq.ft. each w/ internal staircase. 6,800sf or 12,000sf Call Mr. Young for appointment www.raskinexecsearch.com Allan Gallaway 212-594-1414 x251 Associate Product Developer Ideal for Attys, Acctnts, 212-564-7430 ext 208 Evandale, the licensing division of Ad Agency, Brokerage, etc NO PHONE CALLS ON FRIDAYS J.W.E., seeks an experienced and Offices/Designer Showrooms detail- oriented individual. Responsi- GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE -NBI AVAILABLE- For ALL office & loft SPACES RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 ble for production packages, art Updating/Phone Interviews trafficking from original design 500-20,000 SQ.FT Call/Fax Gerard J. Falcone Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! 530 7th Avenue AITF TRUCKING PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. through final approval. Great working SHOWROOM TO SHARE 212-840-4480 212-840-4481 Warehouse & Distribution Ctr. NY/NJ/LI 60 E , NYC 10165 environment! 212-947-5500 Immediate Occupancy - All Inclusive in 24 hrs. Local delivery, pick & pack, etc. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Please fax resume to: 212-704-2041 Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Sherry Phone# 203 543 3028 800-451-8625 or www.aitftrucking.com www.resumesforfashion.com Attn: Eric WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 45

Donna Karan International one of the world’s leading houses has exciting Product Development op- portunities for the following talented professionals in its Col- Due to growth opportunities, Ralph Lauren Childrenswear is lection division: looking for qualified individuals to fill numerous positions in our successful organization. Technical Director: Provide technical support during fit- Key Account Manager -Highlyprofessional individual resp. tings and work directly with patternmakers to achieve for the sales and financial mgmt. of a key account base. Ability design requirements. Travel required and Italian fluency a to interact with acct. mgmt. and buyers to successfully run their must. business, min. 5 yrs Sales Exec. brand experience, strong analytical and communication skills. Req. travel. Product Manager: Creation of tech packs, tracking of pro- totypes and samples. Communicate directly with factories. Sales Administration Manager -Pro-active individuals to work Travel required and Italian fluency a must. closely with Key Acct. Mgrs. in managing acct. orders, order entry, cust. inquiries, market preparation & presentations. Req. 4 yr Trim Manager: Research and development and sample college degree, AS 400 exp., exc. comm. skills, highly organized. trim purchasing. Retail Analyst - Resp. include sales & stock allocation mgmt, forecasting business opportunities and assortment To apply, send resume with salary history to: planning. Req. 4 yr college degree in Bus. or Acct’g, min. 2 [email protected], years analytical experience. or fax to 212-789-1559. EOE. Wholesale Planner - Assertive self-starter to work in wholesale planning dept. in forecasting, production follow-up, comm. with sales and merchandising. Great opportunity for analytical individ- ual w product flair. Wholesale planning exp. a plus. Req. exc. organizational/comm. skills, proficiency in Excel & BA degree. Retail Development Trainer - Train Merchandise Coordinators to maximize in-store performance and work together to focus efforts on achieving the goals of the Sales Division. Req. 5 yrs exp. as a Merch. Coord.. Previous corporate training and mana- SENIOR BUYER gerial experience a plus. Minimum 50% Travel. Exciting opportunity to join a growing designer company. Re- Shop Development Project Manager - Resp. for the execution sponsibilities include merchandising, buying, planning, and of in-store fixturing and visuals. At least 1 year experience daily management of multi-store inventory. Minimum of 5 involved in project mgmt. in Shop Development or Store Planning yrs buying/merchandising exp in designer apparel. Women’s area. Strong communication and computer skills a must. exp preferred, Men’s exp a plus. We offer a competitive Merchandise Coordinator - Resp. include merchandising, salary and comprehensive benefits program. Fax resume to: enhancing brand image and impacting sales volume with (212) 632-4322 or e-mail: [email protected]. EOE M/F specific territory accts., creating relationships with var. levels of in-store mgmt. and analyzing business on a store basis to optimize retail sell through. Req. previous retail apparel exp., excel. comm. skills, proficiency in Word/Excel. Travel req. Major apparel company is looking for DESIGNER Graphic Artist three designers for three different Fax resume with letter of interest detailing the position(s) for Fast paced, Private Label company for positions. Asst Designer Draper mass market seeks experienced, self which you are applying and salary history to: Well known design/bridge day and eve- motivated, Graphic Artist with strong * Athletic Division - Sizes 7-16 girls HR Manager at 212-465-9556. ning company seeks full time Assis- illustration skills. Candidate will work and 8-20 boys No phone calls will be accepted. tant Designer Draper for evening along side the Art Director and * Girls Division- sizes 4-16 clothes. Must have minimum 5 years Merchandising team in the develop- * Infant/Toddler girls and boys experience in high-end clothes. Salary/ ment of screen prints for boys and Designers must have 3-5 years bonus plus benefits for the right candi- young men’s size ranges. Must be experience. Must also be proficient in date. Fax resume 212-840-0205. Email: creative, organized, detail oriented, Photoshop and Illustrator. Great [email protected] and have a strong sense of color, opportunity. trends and fashion. Macintosh Fax resume to 212-239-2766 efficient with an excellent command of DESIGNER Illustrator and Photoshop. Understand- Est. Bridge Co. seeks highly creative ing of spot color separations a plus. &organized indiv to lead team. Essen- Please email resume and cover letter tial: strong background in woven to ny@wrightsknit .com or fax to: bottoms, great sense for color, patterns 212-779-2661 attn: Michael Merchandise Coordinator &prints, excellent understanding of Licensee for Kenneth Cole Menswear fabrics, ability to interpret trends & and Ecko Red seeks Independent and silhouettes, ability to meet deadlines motivated individual based in Boston & excellent knowl of fit & specs. to cover Mass, RI and Maine as a Merch. Knitwear exp a plus. Up to date GRAPHIC DESIGNER CAD DESIGNER Leading manufacturer of kids/juniors Coord. Retail exp. a must. Email resume: portfolio required for interview. [email protected] [email protected] gift & novelties seeks graphic Working in our New York office, you designer with experience in licenses will team with merchandising and de- such as Disney, Nickelodeon, Cartoon sign on scanning, reducing, recoloring, DESIGNER Network, etc. 2 years experience with and placing into repeat prints from origi- GEAR For Sports Illustrator and PhotoShop a must. Fax Merchandiser nal artwork. Responsibilities will also resume to 212-643-0684. include some embroideries and graphi- A leading producer of quality active Los Angeles based high end accessory cally placed artwork on a project basis. wear seeks a creative designer to join company seeks a Merchandiser. The 2 years’ experience, a good sense of our int’l. design team in Kansas City. ideal candidate will be an expert in the color and color matching, and experi- Strong communication & organizational accessory circuit. Min 10 yrs as an ence in U4ia required. Experience in Il- skills 2+ years exp. in ladies design established merchandiser with a lustrator and Photoshop a plus. preferred. We require a strong knit- GROMWELL GROUP proven track record. wear background in creating diverse *Immediate career opportunities available* In return, we will offer a competitive collections: mens, ladies, tradtitional & Account Executive - Sleepwear..$75K-100K Responsibilities will include: salary and benefits package. For urban. Comp. salary & benefits pkg. Sales Manager - Men’s...... $100K Collaboration with design on trends, consideration, please send your re- E-mail resume: sready@gearforsports Import Director-Long Island Loc.....$100K fabrications, colors, shapes, and sea- sume and salary requirements to: Hu- Production Coordinator ...... $45K-75K sonal products. Tracking of weekly man Resources, DONNKENNY, 1411 Direct Marketing - Catalogue Exp. .$75K+ sales, compare sales to stock ratios, de- ASSOCIATE TECHNICAL CAD Broadway, New York, NY 10018; Designer Administrative Assistant ...... $45K-55K velop classification plans and under- fax: (212) 944-8709; or email: Growing moderate daytime missy drs Designer - Men’s wear...... $80K stand the core industry to develop a DESIGNER ADMINISTRATOR [email protected] mfr. seeks expd designer/stylist. Designer - Women’s wear...... $80K fashion mix and maximize sales. Indi- PHAT FARM & BABY PHAT KIDS Major public apparel manufacturer $$ open. Confidential. Call: 212-279-2340 Intimate Apparel ...... $100K vidual to act as a liaison between seeks in-house trainer of Lectra (indicating position title in subject Seeks individual with min 2-3 yrs area). EOE M/F/D/V Denim Bottoms ...... $125K design, production and sales. exp. knowledge of spec development Modaris 4.2 to train patternmakers to Design-Childrenswear...... $75K from sketches, garment construction, become proficient with software. DESIGNER Merchandiser-Children...... $150K Interpersonal and leadership skills fit analysis. Able to follow through on Candidate must have PRIOR DONNKENNY INF-6X Assoc. Designer wanted for Design-Outerwear...... to $75K required. Ability to define problems, all aspects of sample development and experience in implementing computer branded and private label company. CAD Designer ...... $55K collect data, and establish facts and production. Computer literate and patternmaking systems from manual Min. 3 yrs exp. Fluency in MAC Temp and freelance positions also available. draw valid conclusions. Polished highly organized. patternmaking, capable of providing Clerical/Customer Service required. Freehand, Photoshop, or E-mail: [email protected] professional. Fax resume to: 212-564-7418 technical support and back-up is essen- Ideal candidate must be computer liter- Ilustrator knowledge. Fwd salary histo- Fax : (212) 697-8637 tial. Please fax resume/references to ate, organized, have good phone man- ry. Attn: Lazara (212) 221-4399. Please fax resume Attn: HR (212) 730-2531. ners, common sense and a strong work (562) 630-7509 Asst. Designer ethic. Fax resume to 212-840-3090. Designer/Merchandiser Email: [email protected] Leading Y/M, Boy’s woven company Ladies & Children’s Outerwear Co. seeks Harve Benard Ltd. seeks creative Asst. Designer. Min. 2 CAD Artist/Designer Color Analyst talented & innovative indiv. w/ 3+ yrs. yrs. exp. for Y/M woven & knits top. Come grow with us! exp. & pref’d knldg. of the Jr. sptswr. Production Assistant Merchandising Must have great organizational skills, Fast-paced Newborn/Infant Co. seeks Children’s Mfg seeks color analyst. mkt. Must be proficient in merchandising Busy NY production office seeking a exp. in Adobe Photoshop/Illustrator. exp’d. CAD Designer w/skills in Photo- Responsibilities include lab dip/color & designing the line. Pls. fax resume detail oriented, highly motivated indi- Coordinator Pls. email resume: [email protected] shop & Illustrator. Must have exp. w/ tracking; communicate with both attn. Ralph @ (212) 382-2323 vidual w/strong organizational skills. Merchandiser seeks experienced EOE prints, appliques, graphics, & flat domestic and off shore suppliers. Looking for someone with 2-3 years individual to act as liaison between sketches. Looking for creative/upscale Excellent organizational skills, knowl- DESIGNERS/MERCHANDISER 100K exp in cutting tickets, linesheets, design, production and sales. Must artist w/fashion flair to add to the edge of excel, good eye for color and a Well known Hat license launch Men’s spreadsheets and showroom samples. have product knowledge. Must be infant mkt. Willing to train. Hardwork- team player. College Grad. & Women’s Cold Weather line for better AS 400 exp a plus. We offer excellent detail oriented and have good commu- BEST JOBS ing & fun atmosphere. We want to hear Please fax resume to 212-971-2277 Priced Urban mkt. Travel to London. benefits package. EOE/M/F/V/D nication and computer skills. from you! Fax to: 212-279-0131 Must have current exp & strong graphics! Please send resume with salary req to Fax resume to 212-239-2766. $$$$$$+ Hang w/Fubu, PHAT, Ecko, etc. [email protected] •Assoc kids outerwear designer. Great CUSTOMER SERVICE Fax Resume w/salary info: 609-448-8248 Co. Room to move!! 7th Ave. Fashion House seeks energetic, Email: [email protected] NYC loc. •Tech Designer. Better ladies Contem- customer svc. exec. Min. 2 yrs. exp. Strong Office Coordinator porary. Orient travel. CAD Artist organization & computer skills a must. Needed for this Accessory Co. Knowl- •Sales. Better ladies contemporary JOBS JOBS JOBS edge of Bookkeeping, Shipping and line. Candidates from Liz, Jones, Seeking CAD Artist for Textile Co. Must Pls. fax resume: {212} 947-4609 Designer Wanted have full knowledge of Ned Graphics *Artists - Boy - Girl - Jr - Missy Production. Must be detail-oriented Ralph & Tommy please apply. Seeking a creative person who can and computer proficient. Smaller busi- Fax Resume Attn Ruth Nally 201-894-1186 Printing Studio, Sophis Harmony Customer Service/Order Entry to $40K. develop a branded line as well as, *Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl (Coloring & Reconstruct - Mimaki TX2 *Merchandiser: Girls Better Market ness background a plus. e-mail [email protected] Current 1 yr. min. exp. in AS-400, liason sales, private label. Branded will encompass Great opportunity! Room for growth! Printer), Evolution Coloring Programs producution, delivery of shipments to stores, amen’s Latino look in tops / bottoms. *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS *Production Sourcing Director Fax resume to: (212) 787-1432 201-871-9800 (Encad Nova Jet 630). 2 - 3 years design confirmation w/ buyers at stores. Excel. bene- Private label will encompass moderate experience required. Excellent sense fits. 1411 Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy men’s sportswear. Also a firm under- *Production Coords Bilingual Chinese of design & color needed. Photoshop a standing of knit and woven fabric is *Retail Planner - Analyst plus. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: essential. Other requirements will in- *Technical Designers & Assistants BOOKKEEPER 914-251-1656 / [email protected] DESIGNER clude cad, tech & buyer presentations. Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) PATTERNMAKER Needed for Textile Co. A/P and A/R. 3-5 years experience in Ladies’ knits/ Will interface with overseas direct fac- Fast-paced Junior sportswear manufactur- Knowledge of Peachtree Acctg helpful. contemporary Missy with a Jr. flair. tory on a regular basis to accomplish er of knits and wovens located in Totowa Salary $23-26,000. Fax resume to: Good overseas communication; Color line build. Travel to India is required. NJ seeks experienced 1st pattern maker to E. Kane (212-398-9817) CAD DESIGNER CAD capable; Technical design/lab-dip Pls fax resume to 732-530-1219 or Licensing Coordinator work with designer on specs and fits also Established men’s main floor tops approvals; Self motivated; Travel; e-mail to [email protected] production pattern maker for girls 2-16 manufacturer trading in all channels Good at developing systems; Works Fashion accessory co. seeks organized sportswear division. Knowledge of compu- of distribution seeks talented Cad well with buyers. E-mail resume to: DSN ASSOC’S(2) Kids Outerwear OPEN$ Licensing Coordinator for licensed terized marker and grading a plus. Fax resume to: 973-305-0171 Buyer Designer. Must be proficient in and [email protected] Estab’d co seeks some design exp, product division. Submit and keep Growing Long Island retail clothing have knowledge of all aspects of work w/merchr to build line. track of all art and samples from con- store seeks Junior/Younger contempo- Primavision Software (woven, knits, DESIGNER - 4+ yrs designing Boys 4-18 Comp. a must rary Buyer with minimum of 5 years prints). Pleasant work environment. pop price knit sportswr sold to Walmart/be cept through final approval. 1-2 years Prod’n Coordinator $45K+ experience. Great Atmosphere! Fax resume to: Attn: A. Needleman MAC - Photo/Illus lit/sm tvl. $70-80K A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. fashion background preferred. Kids/Bi-lingual/Womens Fax resume to: (516)294-6475 212-686-4336 Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 450 7th Ave. (AGCY) 268-6123 Fax resume to 212-398-0703 Attn: HR FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 46 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003

WAYNE ROGERS N.Y. SEEKING: SEWING INSTRUCTION National Sales Manager:Musthave 8- WRITER 10 yrs exp. selling branded collection The McCall Pattern Company seeks an w/Dept/Specialty Stores & strong rela- individual with good writing and tionships w/ buyers & mgmt. home-sewing skills to write step-by- Customer Service/Sales Assistant:2-3 step instructions for our sewing guide. years in related position. Full-time position with good benefits . Production Assistant:Min 2 years in Fax resume to 212-465-6991 or mail to: apparel industry, have sense of urgen- The McCall Pattern Co, 11 Penn Plaza, cy, excellent production follow-up NY, NY 10001. EOE skills with overseas suppliers & profi- ciency of Excel & Word. Fax resume to HR at fax #212-354-9099 Shipping Coordinator Ladies Apparel co seeking indiv to assist our Import Manager. Responsi- bilities include tracking shipments from overseas vendors to w/house. Applicant must have strong computer and organizational skills and 3+ Product Development Production Mgr. to 85K yrs exper in import/production area. Major handbag co seeks prod pro Fax resume to 212-695-1761 or Director Handbags & Wal-Mart exp a must. e-mail to [email protected]. Los Angeles based high end accessory Fax resume 609-448-8248 [email protected] company seeks a highly skilled quali- fied Product Development Director to Showroom Assistant Director of Sales join our team. This position will be a Public Relations Est. women’s sportswear Co. key factor in the development and di- /Receptionist with unique product, seeking rection of our accessory line. This posi- Acct Exec & Jr Acct Exec Designer Collection requires an indi- tion requires strong creative and ana- Public relations agency is currently vidual with good telephone presence sales professional w/proven lytical skills as well as an understand- seeking an account executive, special- to assist in making market appoint- contacts & exp w/ catalogs, ing of the product development proc- izing in men & women’s fashion, with ments with substantial retailer list. major department & specialty ess and the retail business. 2-3 years experience, and a junior acct Some sales background beneficial! exec specializing in beauty, with 1-2 Please send resume to: [212] 334-5168 stores. Minimum of 5 years Responsibilities: years experience. Candidates should exp in women’s sportswear. •Conduct market and competitive re- be highly motivated with excellent Must be self motivated w/ search to identify target trends and communications skills. Competitive Showroom Assistant new markets. salaries & benefits are offered. organizational & detail skills. /Receptionist Private label & merchandis- •Manages product through all stages Email resumes to [email protected] Designer Collection requires an indi- of product lifecycle, maintaining estab- or fax to 212-213-4790 vidual with good telephone presence ing knowledge a must. lished standards at each stage of the to assist in making market appoint- Product Development; price, quality Competitive Package! ments with substantial retailer list. Great Atmosphere! and delivery. Some sales background beneficial! •Uses historical data, customer, trend Public Relations Potential for growth! research and information on current Please send resume to: [212] 334-5168 markets in the development of new Senior Acct Executive Fax resume (212) 937-3884 product categories as well as refining Successful public relations agency spe- TAYLOR HODSON INC. existing products. cializing in luxury lifestyle, fashion & Seeking Production/ Quality Control/Fit ACCESSORY •Establish infrastructure to introduce retail is seeking an experienced senior Managers, Assistant Production Managers, and produce new product categories. account executive. Must have strong Assistant Merchandisers for fabulous SALES PROS $$$$ •Act as a cross-functional team leader management & communications skills, strategic brand marketing experience permanent fashion opportunities. Pls *Accessories - Specialty Stores - 50K+ where appropriate to set a direction submit resumes to our Fashion Division, *Jewelry - Kohl’s, Dillards - 75K+ based on collaboration with Planning, and ability to develop & maintain Fax: (212) 924-1503 *Handbags - Kohl’s, JCP, Sears - 100K+ and Design. high-end contacts. competitive salary E-mail: [email protected] *Hosiery - WalMart Pro - 100K+ •Develop market strategy and drive & benefits are offered. Qualified candi- *Hosiery - Jr Acct Exec - 40K+ market focus. dates can fax resumes to 212-213-4790 *Stationary - Mass Mkt - 100K+ or e-mail [email protected] T.D. FOUNDATION...... $75K •Execution of product idea from con- T.D. JEANSWEAR ...... $75-80K Great Companies and Opportunities! cept to market. T.D. OUTERWEAR...... $80-90K Fax resume w/salary info: 609-448-8248 Email: [email protected] NYC loc. Polished professional. Minimum of Quality Control T.D. WOVENS/TOPS...... $70K 10+ years experience in a related field. Careerwear Dresses. Better Designer. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Advance Degree in Marketing a plus. Coordinator [email protected] call 212-947-3400 Apparel warehouse located in central CYNTHIA STEFFE New Jersey seeks individual able to Please fax resume Attn: HR identify manufacturing/piece goods Technical Design Director Specialty store account executive want- (562) 630-7509 defects and complete QC reports/ Cut+Sew Knit Bkgrd Only ed for growing contemporary business. Email: [email protected] inspection sheets. Must have Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 MUST have solid specialty store con- excellent communication skills and be tacts across the country; willing to trav- Production/Accessories familiar with JC Penney and Wal-Mart Technical Designer $50-60K. Current el. Please fax resume to: 212-302-1254 Children’s apparel company seeks QC standards. Must be computer experience in specing of junior individual for meticulous and detailed literate with knowledge of AS400/ Out- woven shirts required. 1411 Broadway. Bags / Accessories / Gifts accessories position. Responsibilities look. Minimum 2 years experience. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy International NYC based company seeks include entering accessories informa- Please fax resume to (732)390-7779 experienced, self-motivated & aggressive tion in the computer, tracking accesso- Sales Rep with aproven sales history. ries approvals and working with TECHNICAL DESIGNER Generous packageoffered to qualified can- Established company is looking for with cover letter to: factories/suppliers. Must have excel- highly organized individual with didate. Fax resume lent communication and follow-up excellent communication skills. 516-747-8035 skills. Must be computer literate with Qualified candidate must have experience in AS400 and Excel. experience issuing specs, measuring Earn Great Please fax resume to (212)239-2766 Retail Manager garments, fit evaluation and communi- Commissions! Soho Flagship Store cating detailed reports to factories. Girls - Jr- Contemp - Missy - Knitwear kate spade seeks experienced General Must be detail oriented, with excellent co. seeks true go getters. Line features Production / Manager for flagship boutique. Candidate follow-up skills. Knowledge of grading cutting edge embellishments on tops, must have 5+ years experience in retail and computer Excel and Illustrator a pants and shorts with competitive Administrative Assistant management working with a luxury brand. must. Fax resume to: 212-840-1451 prices. Dept, Specialty Chain and Apparel Company seeks person with Candidate will be responsible for manage- Discount store contacts a must. Must background in import production / ment of the flagship store as well as the be able to generate immediate sales. sweaters. Must be proficient in Excel Jack Spade and travel stores. Individual Technical Designer Above market commissions. Excellent and Word and have excellent tele- must have excellent sales ability, customer Growing childrenswear co. seeks opportunity for the right candidates. phone skills. Person should be flexible service skills, organizational skills and Technical Designer for NY office. NYC based national accounts, many for multi tasking and detail-oriented. strong operational background. Salary Min.3-5 years exp. required, including sunbelt states, plus two prime Florida Please fax resume to 212-840-7742 commensurate with experience. Must be working w/major retailers. Must know territories. Fax: 941-379-0601 Attn: C.F.O. polite. Please email resume to : spec development, garment construc- [email protected] or tion, grading and sample approval Est’d. Better Sweater Co. Production Assistant fax: 212- 206-3985 process. Pattern making a plus. Need Seeks an energetic F/T Sales Pro with Large sleepwear mfr. has an opening strong communication and PC skills. Specialty Shop following in better Missy in their children’s division for a produc- We offer competitive salary/benefits Sweaters with own NY showroom, or work tion specialist. This person will be Retail Planner to $65K. Current exp in in- package. Fax resume with salary at our NY Corp. location. Also seeking responsible to write PO’s, track ventory flow & finance, inforem forecast- requirements to 212-643-1345 or email INDEPENDENT REPRESENTATION in deliveries, daily communication with ing. Wal-Mart center mgmt. program help- [email protected] South CA, NV, AZ, TX, NC, SC, GA, LA, overseas factories. Knowledge of ful. Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy MS, TN, KY. Fax or Email resume to : children’s sleepwear FR requirements SALES ASSISTANT TECHNICAL DESIGNER 718-599-0832 / [email protected] helpful. Must be proficient with Excel Ladies Apparel Co. seeking detail oriented and Word. Please send resume with Leading watch co. seeks entry level Eveningwear person to assist national sales manager professional. Min 5+ yrs technical exp. Importer of young missy social occa- salary requirements to: Duties: technical design production sheet, [email protected] in all aspects of business. Candidate sion line seeks experienced sales per- must be multi tasker in a fast paced approval of samples for production, fitting son with strong specialty store follow- environment with proficiency in Excel garments w/ ability to communicate Production Compliance w/accurate diagrams & written instruc- ing. Extensive travel required. and MS Word. Fax resume to 212-714-1296 Manager Fax resume: 917-351-1236 tions. Follow through from development to Leading Import Co. has immediate or email: [email protected] production. Import exp, computer & opening for strong, organized, detail pattern making knowledge required. FAL Jeffrey Grubb oriented Production Compliance Mgr. Fax Millie (212)-764-2417 INTERNATIONAL Ideal candidate should have excellent SALES DIRECTOR OF SALES follow-up abilities, knowledge of gar- COME JOIN A SUCCESSFUL COMPANY The leading luxury travel active sports- ment ticketing/UPC’s & hanging for ON THE RISE AND HERE TO STAY! TECHNICAL wear collection women’s & men’s better Junior & Private Label. You should be Leading packaging/label Co., specializing DESIGNER Department stores relationships req’d. computer literate [Word, Excel] & enjoy in paper and woven products is searching Strong management, systems imple- for the right account executive to join Moderate sportswear manufacturer mentation, negotiation and numbers working in a fast paced, team environ- seeks experienced technical designer ment. Must have minimum of 3 yrs. our rapidly growing sales team. Large skills. Pls. fax resume to [212] 947-4609 growth opportunity for the motivated to join our woven production team. or Email: [email protected] experience in the garment industry. Candidate must have full knowledge We offer excellent compensation and individual. Sales experience in the ap- parel business and computer literacy of garment construction and GREAT SALESPERSON benefits. Please fax resume, attn. patternmaking. Excellent computer HR Dept. @ [212] 719-4903 is required. For any and all inquiries, Rapidly growing NYC corporate gift please fax resume to: {212} 279-6195 skills and technical drawing capability & promotional products co. seeks exp’d PRODUCTION is a MUST in order to give clear salesperson. Compensation package guidelines and directives to factories. completely open for negotiation. SAMPLEMAKER Fax resume to D. Tom (212) 730-2531. COORDINATOR Very exp’d 1st pattern + fitting a plus. Fax resume: [212] 242-4450 Major apparel company seeks Produc- Must speak English. Pls. call Maureen tion Coordinator with minimum two @ (212) 921-2233 years experience. Responsibilities Textile Service Art Studio include approvals of fabric quality, lab SENIOR EDI SALES REP dips, artwork and accessories. Will Textile Design Studio seeking: also track approval submits to retailers COORDINATOR Exp’d sales rep with knowledge & and maintain retail guidelines. Must Northern NJ Women’s Apparel Co is following for their CAD & hand painted Jewelry & accessories co seeks sales be detail oriented and have good seeking an indiv. with excellent Dept. Excellent terms & conditions. executive for L.A. corporate showroom communication and computer skills. communication, supervisory and 3 yrs Call: [212] 629-9109, ext. 10 &road sales. Min 2 yrs exp. Comp Traveling overseas is a possibility. exp. in EDI process & transactions. TEXTILE ARTISTS skills a must. Strong rel. & contacts Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Must have knowledge of VICS stand- Exp’d freelance artists for hand painted with dept stores & boutiques. ards, Unix & VI. Exp. With mapping Dept. Fax resume to: [212] 502-4168 Fax resume to 213-533-8071 Production Coordinator transactions,, maintaining UPC cata- Must have min 3-5 years exp. of logues, implementing new transac- Traffic Coordinator production coordination with off-shore tions & updating existing ones. Must Established garment ctr co needs JR. TOPS sourcing. Excellent organization and be able to interface with retailers & all Jr. Sportswear Co. seeks an aggressive f highly motivated indiv to join busy communication skills. Knowledge o levels of management. Please send import dept. Duties include: tracking Salesperson for NYC Showroom. Please Excel required. Must have good salary req. & resume to: 201-854-4834 call for appointment: 212-840-0178 understanding of all manufacturing shipments from overseas vendors to warehouse, import docs and customs processes. Please fax resume with Senior Technical Men’s + Boy’s Loungewear/ salary requirements to: Attn: Becky clearance. Excel and L/C knowledge A MUST. Fax resume w / sal hist to: 212-239-0063 Designer Underwear Manager Childrenswear company seeks 212-695-8958 New exciting Loungewear company PRODUCTION Technical Designer with 3-5 years seeks individual with strong sales and experience. Must have knowledge of merchandising background in MANAGER flat sketching, grading and garment U.S. Sales Reps servicing national chains, specialty Budget dress mfr seeks VERY experi- construction. Must be detail oriented New Canadian Junior/Contemporary stores and mass merchants. Great enced Production Manager. Domestic and have good communication skills. brand requires U.S. Sales Reps in opportunity to grow within company. and import experience a must. Good salary and benefits. several territories. Contact Tee Kow @ Must have 7 years experience. Reply: [email protected] Fax resume to 212-239-2766 [416] 298-8800 for more info. Fax resume to 212-391-9704 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 47

ALLEN B. MEN by Allen Schwartz ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Hot New Contemporary Resource Seeking upbeat and self-motivated individual with a passion for clothing. Must have existing account rela- tionships with contemporary/designer specialty stores, de- partment stores & international accounts. Minimum of 3 years experience required. Excellent salary and benefits offered. Please fax resumes Attn: Lloyd Singer 212-840-0092 or email: [email protected] All inquiries will be kept confidential SALES ASSISTANT RAMPAGE CLOTHING CO We are a NYC Sales Rep Co represent- SEEKS SHOP MGR ing well respected mfrs of licensed & private label merchandise. Energetic and self motivated The successful candidate for our individual with leadership qualities expanding biz must be a motivated to manage busy shop in NY. Must self-starter w/ excellent interpersonal skills & superior cust svc exp able to be able toanalyze store business handle all levels of distrib for multi and delegate daily tasks. Strong product categories. You must be able merchandising skills req’d. Depart- to devel new business in addition to growing & maintaining existing cus- ment store experience and flexible tomers while assisting our sales team. hours a must. This take-charge position requires a Fax resume to: hands-on individual with an intuitive understanding of the marketplace & (212) 730-5126 excellent computer skills including Excel & AS400, Goldmine a plus. Excel- lent growth opportunity. Please send resume & salary req’s Fax:516-487-4797 Fabric Sales Manager E-Mail: [email protected] One of the largest Asian fabric suppliers is seeking a Sales Asst - Bon Bebe Leading Layette Importer seeks moti- sales manger. Candidate vated individual with min 1 yr Import must have a strong sales Apparel experience. Will handle In- woven fabric background, house sales to spec. stores plus assist senior sales staff. Must be detail orient- has existing accounts & abili- ed w/ strong computer and org skills. ty to develop new accounts. Fax resume to 212-695-4508 SALES PRO Import & Mfg Co seeking exp’d sales- e-mail to: person. Junior & young contemporary [email protected] or SALES ASST sportswear, fancy jackets, sweaters, fax to 212-967-8018 Childrens apparel company seeks pants, etc. Fax resume: 212-764-5886 or Wal-mart sales asst. Min 3 yrs exp re- web & email: judysvillage.com. plenishment & retail analysis. Knowl- KEY ACCOUNT edge of Retail Link, AS400, Excel, SALES PRO Word. Fax resume to Personnel: Updated missy sportswear co. seeks aggressive sales person w/ est. contacts EXECUTIVE (212) 279-1106 DENIM COLLECTION Major women sportswear private label in chain stores. Maintain & grow ac- Better priced fashion forward denim mfr seeks highly motivated, articulate Sales Executive/ count base. Great package. driven line seeks pro with strong & organized professional to manage Fax resume: 212-391-1530 specialty and better dept stores in NY, and grow existing account base. Duties Apparel Manufacturer Dallas and or West Coast. Domestic/ incl. product development, customer Large Indian, vertically integrated, Ladies’ SALES REP Import. Call 212-840-1335 x 17, or &production liaison. Excellent com- Apparel Manufacturer seeks established Sales rep needed for established fast- email [email protected] munication & computer skills a must. Sales Rep having Active connections w/ growing branded accessory company Knldge of retail trend & fabric market for NYC office. Good org. skills & A+. Highly competitive salary & bnfts Moderate, Contemporary and Better Independent Road Reps Wanted Stores/Labels. Specialist in Silks and multi-tasking a must. 2-3 years exp., pkg. Please fax resume and salary his- Value added styles. Excellent growth prefer previous department store European ladies Lingerie Company tory to 212-239-1260 potential for right person. accessory/handbag exp. Must be profi- looking for experienced reps. Must Rep also wanted for Home Furnishing cient in Excel & Word. Good Benefits. have better specialty store following. National Sales Division. Please Fax or E-mail Resumes: Fax resume to (480) 288-6567 or e-mail All territories available. to [email protected] Director 0091 11 23742676 / Please fax resume to 212-575-3838 New exciting Junior girls company [email protected]® Attn: Human Resources seeks motivated individual to handle SALES REPS sales and production. Must be detail Established children’s wear manufac- oriented with strong ties in the retail SALES EXECUTIVE turer specializing in high volume ac- community. Must have experience in CONTEMPORARY SHOWROOM seeks counts; Walmart, Costco, JC Penney handling sales reps throughout the aggressive sales professional with 3 to seeks self-motivated, aggressive sales country. Unique opportunity with 5 years of Major Dept. & representatives with strong contacts in Outstanding Sales Oppty excellent compensation package. Specialty Store experience. Excellent all territories of the USA. Please fax Independent Reps for Mid Atlantic, Ten years experience necessary. comp. pkg. for the right person. resumes along with contact list to BP New England, Atlanta &Florida territo- Fax resume to 212-391-9704 Fax resume to: (212) 768-3680 {305} 883-7150 ries. Must have sales exp. w/ handbags, small leathergoods & fashion watches. Self motivated, exp’d, aggressive, well ONWARD SOHO SALES PERSON Sales Trainee organized individuals w/ est’d contacts F/T & P/T SALES ASSOCIATES A well known New York based Jobber Looking for motivated, energetic per- at dept & specialty stores necessary. Designer boutique seeks retail selling brands seeks a highly motivat- son with a good attitude to work in Please fax resume to: 212-563-3043 professional with strong selling skills ed self-starter to increase sales in New York dress showroom. Salary, and excellent customer service to work Men’s, Ladies’, and kids’ apparel includ- commission and benefits. in womens wear environment. ing urban wear. Send resume to 516-937-1764 Sales Rep Fax resume to: 212-274-8975 Please fax to 212-239-0088 or E-mail Leading sportswear co looking for to [email protected] SALES VP sales rep in Minn, Wisc, IL, WA, OR. Prom & Special Occasion Wehave active accts to be taken over Est. missy moderate updated co. seeks in territories. Fax resume: 516-937-1764 DRESS SALES EXECUTIVE Salesperson pro for NY showroom. Must have A leading New York based Special Morris County, NJ based better wom- strong Dept & Chain store contacts. Occasion Co. is currently seeking a en’s clothing manufacturer with spe- Fax (310) 327-8070 SALES REPS high level Acct. Executive. Candidate cialty store focus seeking person for Established Canadian ladies’ moderate must have 5-7 years sales experience sales & customer service willing to STORE MANAGER/SALES ASSOCIATES sportswear manufacturer creating new plus extensive Dept. and Chain store travel. Motivated & detail oriented. U.S. sales territories. Non-competing background and contacts. Must be 2 years min experience. lines OK. Viable and active mid and able to travel and oversee road force. Fax resume to: 973-884-4495 senior-level merchant contacts a must. Fax resume to 212-730-8053 or e-mail Showroom preferred. Please fax re- [email protected]. All resumes held S eeking qualified, motivated and sume to 514-382-1681, attn: Josie or in the strictest of confidence. Salesperson/ entrepreneurial individuals to work in call 514-382-3195 ext 242. our Aspen, Los Angeles, Chicago Trunk Show Sales (opening Nov. 2003) and New York Retail Store Manager Luxury designer line oriented towards (opening early 2004) stores. Please E-mail Luxury boutique in Short Hills Mall, NJ the executive woman seeks professio- resumes: [email protected] seeks energetic Store Manager with nal sales person w/ designer level sales min 2 yrs management experience. Ex- exp. Direct selling exp. or clientele cellent salary plus commission & paid following a plus. Company expanding vacation. Fax resume to: 212-355-1411 quickly and offers excellent growth opportunity. Salary plus commission. Please email resume to Patty at OUTERWEAR SALES Nina McLemore. Established Ladies’ & Men’s Outerwear [email protected] Company seeks sales professionals for ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** NY showroom. Exposure to all tiers of Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- retailers a plus. Please fax resume to Sales Person Wanted TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Must be aggressive, self motivated & **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** Att: NJW 212-840-7581 detail oriented w/3-5 years experience in Missy / Junior market with mid-tier Sales/Admin Assist to $50K or mass retailers. E-mail resume to: Proactive person, strong customer follow-up [email protected] ROAD REPS Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 [email protected] SALES PRO ChinaTowner LLC seeks Est’d Import Co. seeking exp’d, Sales Road Sales Reps for Exec to sell popular priced woven/knit women’s apparel. Dynamic Division President Sales Assistant Jr/Missy/Plus Sizes sports/active wear Ladies’ Activewear & Accessory exp’d. Apparel Imp. Co. specializing in child- from our showroom. Must hv est’d con- All territories open. Connected w/mid-tier & mass. Seeking ren’s / junior / missy& some men’s tacts w/major chains & spclty stores. E-mail: [email protected] non-New York opportunity w/financially needs detail oriented asst w/ good Merchandising skills A+. Competitive Fax: 877-834-5160 sound company with vision and is poised phone manners & computer skills. Pls Sal/Comm+ benefits. Fax resume: for immediate success. Will relocate. apply to attn: Dave fax # 212-290-9569. 212-840-2796. Email: [email protected] www.ChinaTowner.com Please call: 609-206-5191 Curves. Seams.

Buttons. s Optical Co., Ltd. s Optical Co., ympu This Fall, the world’s most talented designers will come together for one week in . Olympus is pleased to be one of them. Olympus. Proud sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Olympus America Inc. Olympus is a registered trademark of Ol Olympus America Inc. Olympus 2003 © AN ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO WWD September 17, 2003

UP CLOSE

What do some of the finest apparel, jewelry, accessories and textiles in the world have in common? Italy They all are made in Italy. With unparalleled design, production, and innovation, Italian sources guarantee consumers across the world the best in quality, prices and service. Some of Italy’s brands and suppliers continue to reach across the sea — expanding U.S. sales, opening additional showrooms and forging new business partnerships. Synonymous with quality, style and creativity, Italian suppliers offer luxury, fantasy, and attention to detail that is unsurpassed. Whether it’s handbags or knitwear, earrings or cashmere, if it’s the best, it’s Made in Italy. ADVERTISEMENT Italy’s Golden Touch

Nanis, IJG Every woman knows that a great outfit can market — to “make In addition, Angela only be made better when accentuated by consumers more Caputi participates in vari- great accessories. aware of the ous trade shows during For Angela Caputi, both the owner and Angela Caputi the year, including the company, this year marks the 25th product and high Fashion Coterie, Fashion anniversary of producing bold and beautiful degree of profes- Week in Los Angeles, and accessories and costume jewelry collections sionalism,” as well others in Paris, , for . as to maintain sales Japan and China. According to Caputi herself, Angela throughout the country.

Somewhere in the heart of Italy’s Veneto region there lies a small town whose Angela Caputi ancient legacy in gold production has earned it the title of the “City of Gold.” Vicenza, the original site of the Goldsmith’s Guild, which is said to have been formed in 1339, still stands today as Italy’s primary source of gold, and the pow- erhouse for much of the world’s fine jewelry. In fact, according to Robyn Lewis, president of the Italian Jewelry Guild (IJG), the region is home to more than 1,100 factories and some 11,000 employees, who transform an astonishing 172 to 175 metric tons of gold annually into wearable works of art, 70 percent of which is Angela Caputi exported for a value of over $1 billion. The city’s incredible legend — both past and present — has served as much of the inspiration behind the establishment Jewelry and accessories by Angela Caputi of the U.S.’s own Italian Jewelry Guild. (Continue on ITALY UP CLOSE, page 4) are recognized for the originality of their materials, creativity and fantasy. Edward Menicheschi President, WWD MediaWorldWide Ralph Erardy Senior VP, Group Publisher Elena DeGiuli Caputi pieces are “immediately recog- Throughout the years Angela Caputi has Account Executive, Milan nized” by both Italian and American con- actively pursued numerous opportunities to Enrica Manelli sumers for “the originality of the materials, increase its visibility both within the U.S. Account Executive, Milan Susan Kilkenny the attentiveness to detail, and the creativity and across the globe. Account Manager, Fine Jewelry and fantasy” used to create them. During the three-day span of New York’s Dick Silverman Although the company has only one Fashion Coterie show, the company adver- Director of Special Projects Allison Lurker showroom in the U.S., located in Los tises in Women’s Wear Daily and, new this Special Projects Coordinator Angeles, Caputi reported that company year, will be debuting its products within Anita Drumming agents frequently travel to the U.S. — pay- The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Section Art Director ing particular attention to its New York Technology (FIT). Cover Art: Nanis, IJG

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new relationships in the U.S. and with its Italian members. In addition, the IJG provides helpful services to members, including imports, in- store promotions, the coordination of co-op activities and advertising materials. As a recognized authority on Italian jewelry, Lewis’s organization also represents the interests of the Vicenza Trade Fair, Italy’s largest fine jewelry show. The fair, founded in 1948, today showcases more than 1,500 exhibitors, three times a year, and welcomes buyers from over 112 nations. The event also generates promotional activities for U.S. retailers and importers, in addition to “educating the American con- sumer regarding the outstanding qualities and desirability of Italian jewelry,” she noted. Through the years, the IJG also has developed many valuable and unique rela- tionships with other major Italian Jewelry Industry organizations, such as the World Gold Council, Jewelers of America and the Gemological Institute of America. The IJG, located in Beverly Hills, participates in several different trade Orlando Orlandini, IJG shows throughout the year, including the VicenzaOro shows (Italy), the JA NY Shows (New York), Basel Jewelry & Watch Fair (Switzerland), Couture Collection (Scottsdale, AZ), The JCK The Vincenza Trade Fair, Italy’s largest fine Show (Las Vegas) and Orogemma (Italy). jewelry show, generates promotional activities for Italian Jewelry Guild U.S. retailers and importers and educates 8383 Wilshire Boulevard “the American consumer regarding the outstanding Suite 518 Beverly Hills, CA 90211 qualities and desirability of Italian jewelry.” Tel: 323-653-4705 Fax: 323-653-1768 Robyn Lewis, IJG e-mail: [email protected]

(Continue from ITALY UP CLOSE, page 2) For nearly 20 years the IJG has been Torrini, IJG La Nouvelle Bague, IJG the vital liaison between the thriving jewelry markets of Italy and the U.S., enabling American retailers to share the success that the “Made in Italy” mark raised in the U.S. Under Lewis’s guidance, the IJG is com- posed of a staff of well-cultured, bilingual personnel, while its members include many of Italy’s most widely known designer jew- elry brands, which have entrusted the IJG to represent their interests and aid in forging

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In English, it translates to quality, fashion, Moving forward, Braccialini plans to Braccialini and elegance. expand into new categories like umbrellas, In Italian, it means Braccialini. leather garments and other accessories, With its exciting 2004 collection, through licensing agreements under the Braccialini will offer consumers and retail- Braccialini logo. ers over 20 different ranges of handbags The Braccialini Company is owned by and fashion accessories, including small the Mariella Burani Fashion Group, one leather goods, such as wallets, purses, of Italy’s leading holding companies in belts, as well as shawls, beach towels, the fashion industry, which is listed on the and costume jewelry. Italian Stock Exchange. The company “The quality and style of our product plans to further grow its brands through are rare and totally unique in this market,” a series of new boutiques. said Riccardo Braccialini, CEO. The company exhibits its products at With selective retail distribution, and trade shows like MIPEL in Milan, CENTRO in some cases exclusivity, the firm sells its which acts as an exclusive agent for the in Paris, IBERPIEL in Madrid, TFWA in products across the world, with showrooms company, said Zakarin. Cannes, OBUV MIR KOZHI in Moscow, in , Milan, Hong Kong and Together with ZONE 88, Braccialini and has a Middle East exclusive in Dubai. New York. In the past several years, opened a showroom in New York, and In the U.S., it has exhibited at shoe shows Braccialini has also expanded beyond its has expanded its public relations and in Las Vegas and the Accessories Circuit in Florence boutique to add stores in Milan, advertising activities. New York. Tokyo, Shanghai and other Italian cities like Riccione, Treviso, Montecatini Terme. New shops are planned for Udine and Rome, the company reported. “Fashion always means keeping ahead Braccialini’s success and extensive con- of the times, but also never forgetting the rules sumer popularity is due to its creativity, which allows it to create unique and distinc- of good taste and feminine elegance.” tive collections of handbags and acces- sories every season. Riccardo Braccialini, Braccialini “Fashion always means keeping ahead of the times, but also never forgetting the rules of good taste and feminine elegance,” added Braccialini. Business in America is rapidly expand- For nearly 30 years, Il Bisonte leather ing, while overall sales have grown 30 goods have been offered to the American to 40 percent in the past three years, thanks market. Braccialini to rising exports, successful collections, and And while one may never see this the acquisition of new brands, it noted. Italian company’s trademark bison dis- New fashion trends include ethnic and played on a billboard, the word is out romantic themes, with colors ranging from that Il Bisonte stands for quality. sunny tones to pastels, to the basic black “The quality and workmanship of our and white. products” — which include handbags, U.S. consumers are increasingly backpacks, totes, briefcases, travel bags Braccialini aware of the Braccialini brand name, as and small leather goods — ”as well as the well as its design, innovation and quality, unique styling of Il Bisonte owner/designer Sales of Braccialini’s brands — which Zakarin noted. Wanny Di Filippo, is what sells our pieces, include Braccialini, Mila Schon, Patrick Braccialini — which sells its products and what makes us stand out in this econ- Cox, Vivienne Westwood — in the U.S. in some 30 countries — also has focused omy. People don’t mind spending more on and Canada, are managed by partners Jeff on the most attractive Asian and Russian something they know will last for 25 years Goldstein and Larry Zakarin of ZONE 88, markets in the past few years. or more,” declared Joy Da Ros, president

6 ITALY UP CLOSE www.dismero.com VERMODA S.p.A. - Verona - Italy Tel. 0039 045 8063611 ADVERTISEMENT

(Continue from ITALY UP CLOSE, page 7) bags, as well as travel goods. In fact, Da up both in its U.S and European markets. ble, but wears down when the leather gets Ros reported, more than 30 percent of the The company also is working to grow a good patina.” company’s business can be attributed to men. its business in the Far East and Japan, and participates in the U.S. ENK Coterie trade show, as well as at Premiere Paris and Pret-a-Porter Paris. Shasa offers consumers “colors that evoke The company’s two U.S. stores in the warm and emotional tones of nature.” New York City and Beverly Hills have been operating for 17 years, and draw a steady Gabriele Sanseverino, Shasa flow of quality-minded customers. In addi- tion, Il Bisonte leather goods are carried at some 50 boutiques and specialty stores, such as Fred Segal, KnitWit of Philadelphia Furthermore, “people don’t see Il The Il Bisonte collection is well con- and Maxwell & Co. Bisonte products on everyone,” Worobel structed, with “a very specific core business As the company continues to push noted, explaining that this is a strong of classics” and new pieces and colors ahead, Da Ros hinted there could be some selling point in itself, but adding the added each season, she explained. “surprises” in store for other categories in brand has a healthy following among New to the line for Fall 2003 is some the near future. Hollywood celebrities. nubuck, an opaque leather, and some black Nevertheless, one thing is for sure: “In Currently, at the top of its hot-sellers list leather goods touched with nickel hardware. the future, Il Bisonte will continue to main- stand Il Bisonte’s handbags, followed closely For Il Bisonte, despite the less-than-satis- tain its high standards for workmanship, by its leather briefcases and messenger factory economic climate, retail business is quality and leathers.”

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ADVERTISEMENT Material World The very best in cashmere fashion — for A new highlight within the Aida Barni According to Vik Villani, export manager women, men, children and the home — is Home collection is a luxurious travelers’ for the two lines, the final product is both available from just one source: Annapurna, kit, which includes a lightweight cashmere “rustic and elegant,” and the fabrics “range the company which offers the popular throw and unique travel pillow. in various weights and weaves.” Aida Barni brand name across the globe. Aida Barni is synonymous worldwide with the highest quality, using only the finest raw materials and combining them with “(We) give the consumer the very highest quality “the best Italian fashion and manufacturing and the most desirable products.” skills,” according to company spokesperson Alessandro Galli. Alessandro Galli, Aida Barni “All this gives the consumer the very highest quality and the most desirable prod- ucts,” Galli declared. In addition to top-of-the-line cashmere For the coming season, the company Such reliability additionally ensures goods, the company also treats its consumers has given special attention to “sanded retailers they will consistently receive full to outstanding service. For those wishing to treatments” of its cotton/wool category, a service, and that they will be able to easily revitalize their favorite worn-out or distressed process that Villani reported will leave the restock every month with the latest styles cashmere garments, Annapurna offers its fabrics feeling “soft and drape-y.” and new colors. exclusive “Cashmere Clinic,” where experts “The finish for these fabrics has been can restore products to give them new life. purposely designed after those dating With great products and a faithful back to the 1960’s. For many of our fabrics following of consumers, Annapurna’s U.S. and designs we take our inspiration from the business has reportedly grown by an impres- 60’s and from the ‘folk’ taste of the Eastern sive 20 percent, with the company forecast- European and Asian countries,” he explained. ing strong sales and growth internationally. Villani noted that Angelo Vasino s.p.a. Annapurna exhibits at the most important is well-known for its “evening collection” of European trade fair, and with a sales fabrics, which includes velours and satins force based in New York, participates in “that are enhanced by precious embroi- U.S. shows. deries and prints. The company also is looking to signifi- “We specialize in ‘fancy’ fabrics, and cantly boost its advertising program, with therefore each season we must develop new, creative projects that will further novelties to meet our customers’ needs,” expand the brand’s reputation as a distinc- he added. tive, high-grade label. Ultimately, Villani commented, the Annapurna Vasino and F.I.L. textile collections are unique in that all fabrics, with all their indi- Offering an extensive range of cash- For over 30 years, U.S. and Canadian vidual characteristics — prints, solids, mere and products in the latest styles and garment-makers and designers have come embroideries, yarn dyes, different weights, materials, Annapurna showcases its exten- to know and love the high-quality textiles etc. — can easily be coordinated. sive collections at both its Italy and New offered by Angelo Vasino s.p.a. “We are constantly searching for new York showrooms. During the winter months, Hailing from Chieri, a short distance solutions, designs and finishes. Our prod- the company hopes to instill all its Aida from Milan, Angelo Vasino s.p.a. produces ucts offer style, elegance and exclusivity. In Barni showrooms with the spirit of its main many of the fabrics that distinguish ladies’ (Continue on ITALY UP CLOSE, page 12) Milan showroom. wear as both comfortable and stylish. Exciting new fashion trends include Known best for their viscose, the com- the very latest innovations in luxury goods, pany’s two main lines, Vasino and F.I.L., particularly in the brand’s motorcycle line, make this fiber warmer and richer for the which offers bikers updated, modern and winter season by blending it with wool contemporary styling. and other new, innovative yarns. Angelo Vasino Angelo Vasino

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Love fashion blended with the most up-to-date collection is coming in,” Mendenhall said. Sex Money elements of comfort with feminine looks that “We have increased sales numbers every are easy to wear. single season.”

The fast-growing Love Sex Money brand will add a (Continue from ITALY UP CLOSE, page 13) fitness line, addressing the needs of “the energetic of two new showrooms — woman who never forgets her feminine side.” one in New York and one in Los Angeles. Lorella Signorino, Love Sex Money The brand currently sells and markets its unique line directly from Italy. Meanwhile, business in “Dismero is for women on the move Boasting an ever-growing client list, the U.S. continues to increase signifi- who are causing a stir,” the brand Dismero currently has 100 clients in the cantly, thanks to its close collabora- reported. ”The Dismero woman demands U.S., selling to leading department stores tion with VSD, one of its best high standards from herself and her sur- like Nordstrom’s. customers, Signorino reported. roundings. She values flexibility and With its head office in Verona, Dismero The brand also plans to debut a does not let anything ‘hem’ her in – has sales offices and showrooms across new advertising campaign in the U.S., including the clothes she wears.” the globe, including Italy, Austria, Belgium, promoting its sensual, ultra-feminine styles, Producing “chic sportswear for peo- France, Germany, Holland, Norway, Spain, to coincide with the opening of the two ple who love strong emotions”, d’Auria has a Switzerland, Taiwan and the U.S. The com- new showrooms. unique sense of style and spirit, color and pany also participates in trade shows in During the year, Love Sex Money quality, having created Dismero’s revolution- New York, Los Angeles and Dallas. exhibits at two of Europe’s most important ary “Color System” that combines unique fab- U.S. sales and merchandising are fashion exhibitions in Paris and Lyons. rics with innovative treatments and colors. overseen by Cathi and Lori French and And while the company does not plan to Combining class and elegance, d’Auria Southeast sales are headed by Michele participate in any U.S. shows, contact with transformed sportswear into an art form. Cameron. U.S. customers is frequent, as much as five “Today, the collection provides a sporty, Dismero’s New York showroom is or six times a year, Signorino said. feminine complete look and full range of located at 231 west 39th St, Suite 702, products,” he stated. New York, NY, 10018, and can be A Dismero collection includes some reached by telephone at 212 840-3331. From daytime to evening, head-to-toe, 400 different items, “from traditional 5- The firm’s innovative web site, apparel to accessories, stylish women pocket and modern trouser designs in the www.dismero.com, offers a wide array across the globe seeking comfort and style most up-to-date fabrics, to shirts and of fashion, information, office and sales need just one brand: Dismero. blouses, knitwear, sweatshirts, fleeces, out- addresses, permitting visitors to tour the With products ranging from apparel to door jackets, skirts and dresses, plus acces- world of Dismero. accessories to home goods, Dismero was sories like belts, scarves and sunglasses.” created in 1987, but has sold in the U.S. With the opening of its first store in for six years, said JaDan Mendenhall, direc- Verona two years ago, Dismero branched Dismero tor of U.S. operations. into retail and will continue to add more Andy d’Auria, the company’s owner, specialty stores, Mendenhall said. CEO and designer, has a comprehensive d’Auria plans to develop even more vision for the fast-growing Dismero brand, new products, like fragrance and a makeup and is capturing customers across the line under the Dismero name, and may world. Featuring cotton stretch viscose, the even soon add footwear, she added. brand based in Verona, Italy offers sports- “When women buy our products, they wear, jackets, pants, even a group of become addicted. It’s sportswear with a evening looks, specializing in special colors feminine appeal to it. It is comfortable and and materials, Mendenhal said. so easy to take care of: 95 percent of the “Andy offers women sportswear with line is going to be wash and wear.” a feminine feeling,” Mendenhall noted. The line has an 80-90 percent sell Under d’Auria’s direction, Dismero fea- through, and women are so devoted to tures “sophisticated casual” looks, offering it “they look forward to when the next

14 ITALY UP CLOSE January 11-18 2004

June 12-17 2004

September 11-16 2004

All the glamour and tradition ofI talian jewelry

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