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This Idyllic Indian Getaway, Bordering the Arabian Sea, Is Home to Powder-Soft Beaches, Whitewashed Churches and Fragrant Spice Farms

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This Idyllic Indian Getaway, Bordering the Arabian Sea, Is Home to Powder-Soft Beaches, Whitewashed Churches and Fragrant Spice Farms Enjoying a sunset dip along one of south Goa’s gorgeous beaches. Opposite: An intricate Hindu temple detail at Anjuna Beach, in north Goa. GLORIOUS GOAThis idyllic Indian getaway, bordering the Arabian Sea, is home to powder-soft beaches, whitewashed churches and fragrant spice farms. BY AARTI VIRANI PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON JOEL SANTOS New Delhi INDIA Goa ENDLESS VACATION 47 ndia’s smallest state, Panaji, which is also sometimes known a palm-fringed crescent with by its English name, Panjim. Goa’s a Portuguese accent, is arguably colonial history is palpable in the cob- its most enchanting. Curled along blestoned alleys of Fontainhas and São Ithe country’s lush western coast, Goa Tomé, lined with mango trees, wrought was once a thriving Spice Route colony iron balconies and terra-cotta rooftops. that in its heyday, in the early 1500s, had For a break, duck into Gallery Gitanjali a population larger than Lisbon’s. After (182 31st January Rd., Fontainhas; 011-91- Portugal ended its 450-year occupation, 832-242-3331; gallerygitanjali.com), which in 1961, Goa became a hippie haven, doubles as a café and exhibits abstract synonymous with beachfront raves and oil canvases by a rotating cast of Indian the backpack brigade. But it’s currently painters, in addition to a sizable in the midst of a more sophisticated collection of Scandinavian art. If you’re transformation, drawing millions annu- craving more history, make your way to ally for its ocean adventures, spiritual Old Goa, the region’s ancient center (a sanctuaries and unflappable allegiance 20-minute drive from Panaji), complete to all things susegad—a local term that with beautifully preserved convents traces its roots to the Portuguese word and churches. Highlights include the sossegado, or “quiet.” The word captures UNESCO-certified 400-year-old Bom the state’s affinity for easy living. Here Jesus Basilica (Old Goa Rd., Bainguin- we present a weeklong itinerary that im; 011-91-832-228-5790), where a silver you can follow in its entirety or adapt casket contains the mortal remains of for yourself. Whether you’re wandering St. Francis Xavier, and the grand the old city’s Baroque basilicas, touring Sé Cathedral (Velha). End the day with a cinnamon plantation or lounging an hour-long evening cruise on the on a gleaming stretch of the 63-mile Mandovi River (Santa Monica Jetty, Aveni- coastline, it’s hard to get enough of sun- da Dom João de Castro, Patto Colony, Panaji; speckled Goa, or its homegrown calm. sunset cruises, from $3 a person); Goan folk To get around, you can rely on the musicians will serenade you on board. region’s comprehensive local bus network, hire a taxi (your resort can DAY 2: The Life Aquatic help you arrange this) or hail the Get your morning chai fix at Mapusa humbler alternative: an auto rickshaw. Market (Mapusa; every Monday– Bicycles are also readily available for Saturday; 8 a.m.– 6:30 p.m.) and its rent in most Goan towns. kaleidoscopic array of kiosks, which hawk everything from Goan pottery DAY 1: Historic Heart to homemade pickles. Nearby Anjuna Start with a healthy dose of the past: is the site of countless party shacks, a Heritage Walking Tour excursion including the renowned Curlie’s (near (Panjim Inn; E-212 31st January Rd., Fon- flea market, Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna; tainhas; 011-91-832-222-6523; tours, from 011-91-955-247-1720; curliesgoa.com), a $7.50* a person) to the brightly colored two-story seaside wonderland that’s Latin Quarter in the state capital of a restaurant, an inn, a shopping mall and a dance club. But if you’re looking to skip the swarms, go 20 miles north to Arambol Beach. Follow a winding road dotted with souvenir stalls and you’ll From top: Brilliant tiles spotted on a Heritage Walking Tour in Panaji, the capital of Goa; ancient religious end up at a curvy shore with gentle relics in Old Goa, just 20 minutes away; vibrant textiles waves and easy access to Arambol on offer at Margao Market. Opposite: A fragrant Goan culinary spread. Sweet Water Lake, a cliff-side launch- pad that’s perfect for paragliding (inde- of fishing villages and theChurch pendent operators are scattered among the of St. Lawrence, perched on a hilltop shacks on Arambol and along neighboring and dedicated, appropriately enough, Kalacha Beach; a 10-minute flight, about to the patron saint of sailors. The $25). Or opt for a surfing lesson— company also leads an hour-long beginners are welcome too—courtesy guided kayaking trip along the of the international team at Surf Wala backwaters of Nerul, a sleepy hamlet (Bag Dando Rd., near surf club, Arambol; with a prawn hatchery and a cluster EAT 011-91-962-300-1810; surfwala.com; 1.5-hour of charming riverside bungalows. Mum’s Kitchen lessons, from $35), where instructors give Almost all the recipes at this cozy classes in English, Japanese, Russian and DAY 4: Spice It Up Goan joint—ranging from clams Hindi, among other languages. No trip to this former Spice Route hot sautéed with coconut and coriander spot is complete without a plantation to a tart vegetable stew and disks of DAY 3: Au Naturel excursion. At Tropical Spice steamed rice cakes—are sourced from Keep the outdoor adventures going with Plantation (A-14 Arla Bazar Keri, home cooks across the state. 854 a biking trip to Fort Aguada, a 17th- Ponda; 011-91-832-234-0329; tropicalspice Martins Building, DB St., Panaji; century Portuguese bastion (the loca- plantation.com; admission and lunch, $6), 011-91-982-217-5559; mumskitchengoa tion for many a Bollywood movie scene), in central Goa, after being welcomed .com; dinner for two, $30* one of Goa’s largest forts, on Sinquerim with a wreath of fresh flowers, you’ll Bomra’s Beach—about 10 miles from Panaji. The learn about the many medicinal benefits Reservations are strongly rugged red laterite landmark, which of your lush surroundings—home to recommended at this collection of chic was built to keep out Dutch invaders, is black pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, palm-thatched huts, where you’ll be named for the freshwater spring it once vanilla, cinnamon and coriander treated to chef Bawmra Jap’s modern spin on traditional Burmese fare housed. Book a guided tour through plants—on an engaging 45-minute tour. (he’s a Myanmar native), such Goa Nature Trails (011-91-703-097- It’s followed by a hearty Goan buffet as steamed snapper with lemongrass 3005; goanaturetrails.com; trips, including lunch of fish curry, fried potatoes and and slow-cooked, cashew-crusted a helmet and light refreshments, from $30), vegetable pulao served on banana leaves. pork belly. 247 Fort Aguada Rd., a reliable Candolim-based operator On your way back to Panaji, consider Candolim; 011-91-976-759-1056; offering a three-hour mountain-bike a stop at the pretty Mystic Meadows bomras.com; dinner for two, $50 outing that takes in a succession (Rajnagar, Pisgal Priol, near Khedekar Lila Café Linger over a cappuccino or two at this rustic breakfast spot, where crowd-pleasers are the flaky crois- sants (baked in-house) and chili-and- cheese omelets. Tito’s White House, Calangute–Arpora–Siolim Rd., Anjuna; 011-91-832-291-4687; lilacafegoa .com; breakfast for two, $15 Longuinhos Bar & Restaurant One of Goa’s oldest restaurants, this 50-year-old Margao mainstay, which began as a Portuguese military can- teen, now serves up regional seafood favorites, like fiery prawn curry and stuffed crabs. Opposite Municipality Office, Luis Miranda Rd., Margao; 011- 91-832-273-9908; lunch for two, $10 *Estimated meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip. *Prices have been converted to U.S. dollars. ENDLESS VACATION 49 STAY RCI® AFFILIATED RESORTS IN GOA INCLUDE: Industries, Ponda; 011-91-832-298-5174; ers, purple herons, white egrets, wood- bcogoa.org; admission, $1.50), a fledgling peckers and cormorants, among other butterfly-and-bee conservatory run by feathered folks. If the tide is high, a budding wildlife painter, and the Shri boatmen, whom you’ll spot near the Shantadurga Temple (Verem–Nerul Rd., ferry landing, can take you on a canoe near Chamundeshwari petrol pump, Verem; tour of the mangrove-heavy isle shreeshantadurga.com), an 18th-century (1.5-hour ride, about $10). Come shrine dedicated to the Hindu goddess of evening try your luck at the Deltin peace—and a vibrant example of Indo- Royale (Noah’s Ark, RND Jetty, DB Portuguese architecture. Marg, Panaji; 011-91-869-859-9999; deltin.com; admission, from $37 a person, Royal Goan Beach Club— DAY 5: Southern Hospitality including a buffet dinner, unlimited drinks Royal Palms 3594 To spend a day on Goa’s more serene and and playing coupons), a plush four- Pools, palm-lined walkways and flowers give the colonial-style accommodations an elegant soft-spoken side, head south. Begin with decker casino cruise—India’s largest vibe. Vasvaddo, Benaulim 403 516 a visit to the Goa Chitra Museum (St. offshore gaming complex—with MEMBER REVIEW: “We felt right at home.” John the Baptist Church Rd., Mondo-Waddo, Vegas-inspired entertainment shows. Royal Goan Beach Club—Haathi Mahal 4129 Benaulim; 011-91-832-657-0877; goachitra The health and fitness center features a .com; admission, $3), artist Victor Hugo DAY 7: Meditative Magic sauna, steam rooms and a spa. Cavelossim, Gomes’s extensive ode to Goan history, Soak up Goa’s signature susegad Mobor, Salcette 403 731 MEMBER REVIEW: “Prompt and friendly service.” crammed with 4,000 regional objects, spirit in Mandrem, a northern fishing including farming tools, kitchen utensils village turned hideaway.
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