Cheesemaking Practice Cheesemaking Practice R. SCOTT Third edition
R.K. ROBINSON R.A. WILBEY The University of Reading Reading, UK
111... " SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, LLC © 1998 Springer Science+Business Media New York Originally published by Kluwer Academic / Plenum Publishers in 1998 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 3rd edition 1998
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Editorial Resources: Jon Walmsley Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 98-70420 ISBN 978-1-4613-7667-5 ISBN 978-1-4615-5819-4 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-1-4615-5819-4
1 234 5 Contents
Preface xv
Acknowledgements xvii
1 A brief history of cheese 1 References 8
2 Importance of cheese as a food 9 2.1 Nutritional value of cheese 10 2.1.1 Milk fat 12 2.1.2 Protein 13 2.1.3 Lactose 14 2.1.4 Minerals and vitamins 15 2.1.5 Miscellaneous considerations 15 References 17
3 Cheese varieties 19 3.1 Definition of cheese 19 3.2 International agreements 19 3.3 Classification of cheese 21 References 28
4 Introduction to cheesemaking 30 4.1 Principles of cheesemaking 30 4.2 Summary of cheesemaking procedures 31 4.2.1 Ingredients for cheesemaking and their handling 32 4.3 Good manufacturing practice 35 References 36
5 Milk as a raw material for cheesemaking 37 5.1 Variations in the composition of milks 38 5.2 Milk fats 41 5.3 Minor lipids 47 5.4 Proteins in milk 48 5.4.1 Caseins 48 5.4.2 Whey proteins 50 5.5 Minerals (salts) in milk 51 vi CONTENTS
5.6 Enzymes in milk 52 5.7 Vitamins in milk 55 5.8 Antibiotics in milk 57 5.9 Taints in milk 61 5.10 Extraneous substances in milk 61 5.1I Cheese from dried milk powders 63 5.12 Cheese from recombined milks 63 References 64
6 Bacteriology in relation to cheesemaking 67 6.1 The bacterial cell 67 6.2 Bacteriology of raw cheese milks 68 6.3 Types of microbial contamination 69 6.4 Bacteriological testing of milk 74 6.5 Principles of HACCP 77 6.6 Removal of bacteria from cheese milk 79 References 80
7 Tests for acidity and chemical analysis in process control 81 7.1 Acidity versus pH 81 7.1.1 Indicator dyes 81 7.1.2 Titratable acidity 82 7.1.3 Hot Iron Test 83 7.1.4 pH measurement 85 7.1.5 Rate of acid or pH change 86 7.1.6 Acidities during processing 86 7.2 Acidity in process control 88 7.3 Chemical analysis 91 7.3.1 Casein 91 7.3.2 Salts 94 7.3.3 Moisture 94 7.3.4 Miscellaneous substances 94 7.3.5 Instrumental and other analytical methods 95 References 96
8 Additives used in cheese milks 98 8.1 Calcium balance 98 8.2 Inhibitory salts 100 8.3 Acidulants 101 8.4 Cheese colours 102 8.5 Legal usage of additives 103 References 105 CONTENTS vti
9 Starter cultures 106 9.1 Starter bacteria 106 9.2 Coded starter cultures 109 9.3 Starter propagation 112 9.4 Starter control 115 9.5 Non-lactic starters 116 9.6 Bacteriophage 118 References 119
10 Preparation of cheese milks 122 10.1 Milk storage 122 10.2 Standardization of cheese milks 124 10.2.1 Formulae for standardization and cheese yields 124 10.2.2 Methods employed for the standardization of milks 127 10.3 Homogenization 131 10.4 Centrifugal clarification 132 10.5 Hydrogen peroxide/catalase method 133 10.6 Heat treatment of cheese milks 135 10.6.1 Equipment for heat treatment of cheese milks 143 References 144
11 Coagulants and precipitants 146 11.1 Salt-precipitated curds 146 11.2 Acid-precipitated curds 146 11.3 Enzyme coagulants 148 11. 3.1 Animal rennets 149 11.3.2 Pepsin rennets 154 11.3.3 Microbial rennets 154 11.3.4 Recombinant chymosin 157 11. 3.5 Vegetable rennets 157 11.4 Observations on the use of some rennets 158 11.5 Factors influencing coagulation 159 11.6 Direct acidification 161 References 163
12 Cheesemaking operations 165 12.1 Basic cheesemaking operations 165 12.2 Standardization of cheese milks 165 12.3 Homogenization of cheese milks 166 12.4 Heat treatment of cheese milks 166 12.5 Starter addition 167 12.6 Colour and additives 168 12.7 Rennet addition 169 12.8 Coagulation 169 Vlll CONTENTS
12.9 Cutting the coagulum 171 12.10 Stirring and scalding 173 12.11 Washed curd cheese 176 12.12 Salting of cheese 177 12.12.1 Methods of salting 178 12.13 Cheese pressing 180 12.14 Cheese rind coating, bandaging and wrapping 183 References 191
13 Cheese manufacture 193 13.1 Varietal differences 193 13.2 Grating cheese 196 13.3 Textured cheese 197 13.3.1 Cheddar cheese 197 13.3.2 Cheshire cheese 204 13.3.3 Dunlop cheese 206 13.3.4 Derby cheese 206 13.3.5 Leicester cheese 206 13.3.6 Gloucester cheese 207 13.3.7 Caerphilly cheese 207 13.3.8 Lancashire cheese 207 13.4 Untextured cheese 208 13.5 Cheese with eyeholes 209 13.6 Semi-hard cheese with few or no eyeholes (including washed curd cheese) 211 13.7 Blue-veined cheese 215 13.8 Pasta Filata cheese (kneaded curds) 217 13.9 Soft cheese 221 13.10 White brined cheese 222 13.11 Lactic, Cottage and similar cheese 224 13.12 Cheese made in mountainous areas or by nomadic tribesmen 228 References 229
14 Mechanization of cheesemaking 232 14.1 Electrodialysis and ultrafiltration equipment 233 14.2 Homogenizers 237 14.3 Starter preparation equipment 239 14.4 Milk ripening tanks 239 14.5 Soft cheese making equipment 240 14.6 Curd-making vats (textured cheese) 241 14.7 Curd-making vats (untextured cheese) 246 14.8 Whey--curd separation equipment 249 14.9 Cheese texturing and draining equipment 251 CONTENTS ~
14.10 Cheese hooping or moulding machines 258 14.11 Cheese presses 262 14.12 Cheese brining equipment 266 14.13 Cheese conveying and turning equipment 268 14.14 Kneading equipment for Pasta Filata cheese 268 14.15 Miscellaneous equipment 268 14.16 Cheese packaging equipment 269 References 270
15 Cheese maturation 271 15.1 Cheese curd 271 15.2 Lactose and related metabolites 273 15.3 Protein metabolism 274 15.4 Lipids 277 15.5 Curd moisture 277 15.6 Temperatures during maturation 278 15.7 Acidity of the curds 279 15.8 Inhibitory substances and oxygen 280 15.9 Aroma in cheese 281 15.10 Flavour in cheese 282 15.11 Additional flavours and aromas 283 15.12 The use of wood smoke 284 15.13 Liqueurs, wines and beers 284 15.14 Cheese bases 285 15.15 Cheese slurries 285 15.16 Accelerated maturation of cheese 286 References 287
16 Cheese faults and cheese grading 288 16.1 Faults in hard-pressed cheeses 288 16.2 Faults in blue-veined cheese 290 16.3 Faults in surface mould-ripened cheese 291 16.4 Faults in smear-ripened cheese 292 16.5 Aspects of quality 292 16.5.1 Chemical composition of cheese 292 16.5.2 Microbiological standards 294 16.5.3 Cheese grading 296 16.5.4 Grading schemes 301 16.5.5 Grading practice 305 References 308
17 Membrane fIltration of milk and whey 309 17.1 Membranes 309 17.1.1 Membranes for cheese milk and whey processing 311 x CONTENTS
17.2 Applications of membrane processing 313 17.3 Application of UF to cheesemaking 313 References 318
18 Cheese whey and its uses 320 18.1 Utilization and disposal of whey 320 18.2 Quality of whey 321 18.3 Whey cheese 322 18.4 Whey treatments 324 18.5 Waste disposal 325 References 325
19 Selected cheese recipes 327 List of the cheese recipes 327 1. Appenzeller 329 2. Aragackij Syr 330 3. Asiago 331 Asiago da Allievo 331 4. Awshari 332 Typical method of manufacture (mainly Spring and early Summer) 332 Variable characteristics of the Awshari cheese 333 5. Baker's cheese curd 333 6. Beaufort 334 7. Beli Sir u Kriskama 335 8. Bjalo (Belo salam ureno sirene) 336 9. Blue Vinney (Dorset Blue) 337 10. Bresse Bleu 338 11. Brie 339 12. Brinza 340 13. Bukovina 341 14. Burduf 341 15. Butterkase 342 16. Caerphilly 343 17. Caledonian 344 18. Cambridge 345 19. Camembert 345 Farmhouse manufacture 346 Factory manufacture 347 Use of UF concentrated milk for Camembert cheese 348 20. Cantal 349 21. Carrick 350 22. Cascaval Dobrogen 351 23. Cheese base for the addition of solid flavourings 351 CONTENTS Xl
24. Cheddar 352 Mechanization of Cheddar cheese making 354 25. Cheshire 355 1. Summer/winter Cheshire 355 2. Spring Cheshire (modifications) 356 3. Autumn Cheshire (modifications) 356 4. Block cheese 357 26. Colwich 357 Method 1 (Farmhouse) 357 Method 2 (Factory) 358 27. Cotswold 358 28. Cottage cheese 359 Method 1: acid-type cheese 359 Method 2: rennet-assisted curd from skim milk. Quick set method 360 Cream dressing for Cottage cheese 360 Marketing 360 Defects 361 29. Coulommiers 361 Small-scale Farmhouse 361 Factory method 363 Method 1 363 Modification of Method 1 364 Coulommiers from UF milk 364 30. Cream cheese 364 31. Danablu 365 32. Derbyshire 367 33. Domiati 368 34. Double cream cheese 369 35. Double Gloucester 370 36. Dunlop 371 37. Edam 372 38. Edelpilzkase 374 39. Emmental 375 Block (rindless) Emmental 377 40. Estepe 378 41. Feta 378 42. Feta type cheese from UF concentrated milk 380 43. Fromage Frais 380 1. Triple Cream Suisse 381 2. Demi-Sel 381 3. Neuf Chatel 381 44. Gamelost 382 45. Gorgonzola 383 xu CONTENTS
46. Gouda 384 47. Gruyere 386 48. Halloumi 387 49. Herregaardsost 388 50. Herve 389 51. Italico 390 52. Kashkaval (Kaschkawal) 390 53. Kefalotyri 392 54. Kesong Puti 393 55. Kingston 393 56. Lactic curd cheese 394 57. Lancashire 394 58. Leicester(shire) 396 59. Limburger 397 60. Liplovska Bryndza 398 Stage 1 - manufacture of Hrudka cheese (Hrudkovy Syr) 399 Stage 2 - manufacture of Bryndza cheese 399 61. Livarot 400 62. Manchego 400 63. Mascarpone 402 64. Monterey 402 65. Mozzarella 403 66. Parenica 404 67. Parmesan 405 68. Peakland 406 69. Pecorino Romano 407 70. Pelardon 409 71. Petit Suisse 409 72. Pont l'Eveque 410 73. Provolone 411 74. Quark 413 1. Manual method for skim milk curds 413 2. Mechanical concentration method 414 3. Use of ultrafiltration of skim milk to produce Quark 415 Flavoured Quark 415 Creamed Quark 415 75. Reading Yellow 415 76. Ricotta 416 Ricotta cheese (whole milk) 417 Ricottone (whey cheese) 417 77. Roquefort 418 78. Saint-Maure de Touraine 419 79. St. Paulin 420 80. Sage Derby (or Derbyshire) 421 CONTENTS xiii
81. Samsoe 421 82. Sbrinz 422 83. Single Gloucester 423 84. Steppenkase 424 85. Stilton 425 Farmhouse method 425 Factory method 427 Factory and Farmhouse methods of maturation 427 86. Surti 428 87. Svecia 428 88. Telemea 429 89. Tilsiter 430 90. Trappist 432 91. Vacherin 433 92. White pickled cheese 433 93. Wensleydale 434 94. Whey curd cheese 436 95. Whiteknights 436 96. Yorkshire cheese curds 437
Index 439 Preface to the third edition
When the late Reg Scott wrote the first edition of this book in 1981, his intention was 'to produce a script generally interesting to those readers requiring more information on cheese'. It was not conceived as a book that covered the most recent developments with respect to lipid or protein chemistry, for example, but rather it was hoped that the text would reveal cheesemaking as a fascinating, and yet technically demanding, branch of dairy science. The fact that the author had some 50 years' experience of cheesemaking gave the book a very special character, in that the 'art' of the traditional cheesemaker emerged as a system that, in reality, had a strong scientific basis. Today, cheesemaking remains a blend of 'art and science' for, while much cheese is made in computer-controlled factories relying on strict standard• ization to handle the large volumes of milk involved, the production of top quality cheese still relies on the innate skill of the cheesemaker. It was considered appropriate, therefore, that this revised edition of Cheesemaking Practice should include, at one end of the spectrum, details of the latest technology for curd handling and, at the other, simple recipes for the production of farmhouse cheeses. Obviously a student of dairy science will need to consult other texts in order to complete his/her knowledge of the cheesemaking process, but if this revised edition stimulates its readers to delve more deeply, then the task of updating the original manuscript will have been worthwhile.
Richard K. Robinson and R. Andrew Wilbey The University of Reading Acknowledgements
The authors gratefully acknowledge the benefit that they have derived from the wealth of material accumulated over many years by the original author, but as many of the illustrations are new, a special note of appreciation must be extended to the following organizations: APV Nordic Cheese AS Multivac UK Ltd Tetra Tebel BV Vantage House Westfalia Separator Ltd Wincanton Engineering Ltd Wrapid Packaging Systems Ltd The authors are also grateful to Drs David Jukes, Alistair Grandison and Mike Lewis ofThe University ofReading for their specialized advice; and to Ian Maclean and his team for their invaluable assistance in the preparation of photographs.