Cheesemaking Practice Cheesemaking Practice R. SCOTT Third edition R.K. ROBINSON R.A. WILBEY The University of Reading Reading, UK 111... " SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, LLC © 1998 Springer Science+Business Media New York Originally published by Kluwer Academic / Plenum Publishers in 1998 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 3rd edition 1998 AII rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, microfilming, record ing, or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher, with the exception of any material supplied specifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser ofthe work. Editorial Resources: Jon Walmsley Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 98-70420 ISBN 978-1-4613-7667-5 ISBN 978-1-4615-5819-4 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-1-4615-5819-4 1 234 5 Contents Preface xv Acknowledgements xvii 1 A brief history of cheese 1 References 8 2 Importance of cheese as a food 9 2.1 Nutritional value of cheese 10 2.1.1 Milk fat 12 2.1.2 Protein 13 2.1.3 Lactose 14 2.1.4 Minerals and vitamins 15 2.1.5 Miscellaneous considerations 15 References 17 3 Cheese varieties 19 3.1 Definition of cheese 19 3.2 International agreements 19 3.3 Classification of cheese 21 References 28 4 Introduction to cheesemaking 30 4.1 Principles of cheesemaking 30 4.2 Summary of cheesemaking procedures 31 4.2.1 Ingredients for cheesemaking and their handling 32 4.3 Good manufacturing practice 35 References 36 5 Milk as a raw material for cheesemaking 37 5.1 Variations in the composition of milks 38 5.2 Milk fats 41 5.3 Minor lipids 47 5.4 Proteins in milk 48 5.4.1 Caseins 48 5.4.2 Whey proteins 50 5.5 Minerals (salts) in milk 51 vi CONTENTS 5.6 Enzymes in milk 52 5.7 Vitamins in milk 55 5.8 Antibiotics in milk 57 5.9 Taints in milk 61 5.10 Extraneous substances in milk 61 5.1I Cheese from dried milk powders 63 5.12 Cheese from recombined milks 63 References 64 6 Bacteriology in relation to cheesemaking 67 6.1 The bacterial cell 67 6.2 Bacteriology of raw cheese milks 68 6.3 Types of microbial contamination 69 6.4 Bacteriological testing of milk 74 6.5 Principles of HACCP 77 6.6 Removal of bacteria from cheese milk 79 References 80 7 Tests for acidity and chemical analysis in process control 81 7.1 Acidity versus pH 81 7.1.1 Indicator dyes 81 7.1.2 Titratable acidity 82 7.1.3 Hot Iron Test 83 7.1.4 pH measurement 85 7.1.5 Rate of acid or pH change 86 7.1.6 Acidities during processing 86 7.2 Acidity in process control 88 7.3 Chemical analysis 91 7.3.1 Casein 91 7.3.2 Salts 94 7.3.3 Moisture 94 7.3.4 Miscellaneous substances 94 7.3.5 Instrumental and other analytical methods 95 References 96 8 Additives used in cheese milks 98 8.1 Calcium balance 98 8.2 Inhibitory salts 100 8.3 Acidulants 101 8.4 Cheese colours 102 8.5 Legal usage of additives 103 References 105 CONTENTS vti 9 Starter cultures 106 9.1 Starter bacteria 106 9.2 Coded starter cultures 109 9.3 Starter propagation 112 9.4 Starter control 115 9.5 Non-lactic starters 116 9.6 Bacteriophage 118 References 119 10 Preparation of cheese milks 122 10.1 Milk storage 122 10.2 Standardization of cheese milks 124 10.2.1 Formulae for standardization and cheese yields 124 10.2.2 Methods employed for the standardization of milks 127 10.3 Homogenization 131 10.4 Centrifugal clarification 132 10.5 Hydrogen peroxide/catalase method 133 10.6 Heat treatment of cheese milks 135 10.6.1 Equipment for heat treatment of cheese milks 143 References 144 11 Coagulants and precipitants 146 11.1 Salt-precipitated curds 146 11.2 Acid-precipitated curds 146 11.3 Enzyme coagulants 148 11. 3.1 Animal rennets 149 11.3.2 Pepsin rennets 154 11.3.3 Microbial rennets 154 11.3.4 Recombinant chymosin 157 11. 3.5 Vegetable rennets 157 11.4 Observations on the use of some rennets 158 11.5 Factors influencing coagulation 159 11.6 Direct acidification 161 References 163 12 Cheesemaking operations 165 12.1 Basic cheesemaking operations 165 12.2 Standardization of cheese milks 165 12.3 Homogenization of cheese milks 166 12.4 Heat treatment of cheese milks 166 12.5 Starter addition 167 12.6 Colour and additives 168 12.7 Rennet addition 169 12.8 Coagulation 169 Vlll CONTENTS 12.9 Cutting the coagulum 171 12.10 Stirring and scalding 173 12.11 Washed curd cheese 176 12.12 Salting of cheese 177 12.12.1 Methods of salting 178 12.13 Cheese pressing 180 12.14 Cheese rind coating, bandaging and wrapping 183 References 191 13 Cheese manufacture 193 13.1 Varietal differences 193 13.2 Grating cheese 196 13.3 Textured cheese 197 13.3.1 Cheddar cheese 197 13.3.2 Cheshire cheese 204 13.3.3 Dunlop cheese 206 13.3.4 Derby cheese 206 13.3.5 Leicester cheese 206 13.3.6 Gloucester cheese 207 13.3.7 Caerphilly cheese 207 13.3.8 Lancashire cheese 207 13.4 Untextured cheese 208 13.5 Cheese with eyeholes 209 13.6 Semi-hard cheese with few or no eyeholes (including washed curd cheese) 211 13.7 Blue-veined cheese 215 13.8 Pasta Filata cheese (kneaded curds) 217 13.9 Soft cheese 221 13.10 White brined cheese 222 13.11 Lactic, Cottage and similar cheese 224 13.12 Cheese made in mountainous areas or by nomadic tribesmen 228 References 229 14 Mechanization of cheesemaking 232 14.1 Electrodialysis and ultrafiltration equipment 233 14.2 Homogenizers 237 14.3 Starter preparation equipment 239 14.4 Milk ripening tanks 239 14.5 Soft cheese making equipment 240 14.6 Curd-making vats (textured cheese) 241 14.7 Curd-making vats (untextured cheese) 246 14.8 Whey--curd separation equipment 249 14.9 Cheese texturing and draining equipment 251 CONTENTS ~ 14.10 Cheese hooping or moulding machines 258 14.11 Cheese presses 262 14.12 Cheese brining equipment 266 14.13 Cheese conveying and turning equipment 268 14.14 Kneading equipment for Pasta Filata cheese 268 14.15 Miscellaneous equipment 268 14.16 Cheese packaging equipment 269 References 270 15 Cheese maturation 271 15.1 Cheese curd 271 15.2 Lactose and related metabolites 273 15.3 Protein metabolism 274 15.4 Lipids 277 15.5 Curd moisture 277 15.6 Temperatures during maturation 278 15.7 Acidity of the curds 279 15.8 Inhibitory substances and oxygen 280 15.9 Aroma in cheese 281 15.10 Flavour in cheese 282 15.11 Additional flavours and aromas 283 15.12 The use of wood smoke 284 15.13 Liqueurs, wines and beers 284 15.14 Cheese bases 285 15.15 Cheese slurries 285 15.16 Accelerated maturation of cheese 286 References 287 16 Cheese faults and cheese grading 288 16.1 Faults in hard-pressed cheeses 288 16.2 Faults in blue-veined cheese 290 16.3 Faults in surface mould-ripened cheese 291 16.4 Faults in smear-ripened cheese 292 16.5 Aspects of quality 292 16.5.1 Chemical composition of cheese 292 16.5.2 Microbiological standards 294 16.5.3 Cheese grading 296 16.5.4 Grading schemes 301 16.5.5 Grading practice 305 References 308 17 Membrane fIltration of milk and whey 309 17.1 Membranes 309 17.1.1 Membranes for cheese milk and whey processing 311 x CONTENTS 17.2 Applications of membrane processing 313 17.3 Application of UF to cheesemaking 313 References 318 18 Cheese whey and its uses 320 18.1 Utilization and disposal of whey 320 18.2 Quality of whey 321 18.3 Whey cheese 322 18.4 Whey treatments 324 18.5 Waste disposal 325 References 325 19 Selected cheese recipes 327 List of the cheese recipes 327 1. Appenzeller 329 2. Aragackij Syr 330 3. Asiago 331 Asiago da Allievo 331 4. Awshari 332 Typical method of manufacture (mainly Spring and early Summer) 332 Variable characteristics of the Awshari cheese 333 5. Baker's cheese curd 333 6. Beaufort 334 7. Beli Sir u Kriskama 335 8. Bjalo (Belo salam ureno sirene) 336 9. Blue Vinney (Dorset Blue) 337 10. Bresse Bleu 338 11. Brie 339 12. Brinza 340 13. Bukovina 341 14. Burduf 341 15. Butterkase 342 16. Caerphilly 343 17. Caledonian 344 18. Cambridge 345 19. Camembert 345 Farmhouse manufacture 346 Factory manufacture 347 Use of UF concentrated milk for Camembert cheese 348 20. Cantal 349 21. Carrick 350 22. Cascaval Dobrogen 351 23. Cheese base for the addition of solid flavourings 351 CONTENTS Xl 24. Cheddar 352 Mechanization of Cheddar cheese making 354 25. Cheshire 355 1. Summer/winter Cheshire 355 2. Spring Cheshire (modifications) 356 3. Autumn Cheshire (modifications) 356 4. Block cheese 357 26. Colwich 357 Method 1 (Farmhouse) 357 Method 2 (Factory) 358 27. Cotswold 358 28. Cottage cheese 359 Method 1: acid-type cheese 359 Method 2: rennet-assisted curd from skim milk. Quick set method 360 Cream dressing for Cottage cheese 360 Marketing 360 Defects 361 29. Coulommiers 361 Small-scale Farmhouse 361 Factory method 363 Method 1 363 Modification of Method 1 364 Coulommiers from UF milk 364 30.