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MAR 2016 #016 VISITBARCELONA.COM OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN A 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Time Out English Edition The Best March 2016 Explore the district of Carmel for an authentic of BCN slice of Barcelona – and some of the most incredible views the city has to offer p. 34

Features 14. Barcelona, reveal yourself While there are any number of obvious sights to enjoy in this city, you shouldn’t miss out on what’s behind closed doors. Join Laura Conde on a trip to discover some of Barcelona’s secret treasures. 22. Get ready to slurp International cuisine is increasingly excellent in Barcelona, and one of the most popular current choices is ramen. Ricard Martín tells you where to Ɓnd the best noodles in the city. 26. Urban farmhouses Barcelona was once surrounded by farmland. Maria Junyent explains that, despite modern changes, a few old farmhouses remain. 28. They do what? MARIA DIAS Abby Narishkin spills the beans on some of ’s quirkier traditions. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 61. LGBT 62. Clubs MARIA DIAS 64. Getaways ORIOL BAYLINA #re you a fan of fashion! &onot miss our proƁle of Start your day right with an ensaïmada, a swirly 66. BCN Top Ten four of Catalonia’s top young designers p. 30 pastry doused in icing sugar p. 58

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Printer .itograƁa RosÅs Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor María JosÅ GÏme\ | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Legal deposit B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manuel PÅre\ | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Bl½nque\, ®scar Broc, Ada , Irene Fern½nde\, BegoÍa García, Ivan GimÅne\, Maria Gorgues, Eul¼lia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iv½n IRISNEGRO Moreno, Abby Narishkin, Alx Phillips, Martí Sales, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara NarviÏn [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English Edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2016

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 3 The BCN_MAR 2016 hot list TUESDAY WEDNESDAY 01 02 Sport Dance F1 Test Days Vorònia Final days of tests at the Local company perform Catalan track. See p. 36 latest show. See p. 53 EDU PEREZ THURSDAY FRIDAY TUESDAY 03 04 08 Music Food & Drink Music Eagles of Death Metal BCN Beer Festival Johnny Hallyday The US band are back on Craft beers local and French icon comes to the tour. See p. 44 international. See p. 36 . See p. 45

Spanish Guitar Masters at the Palau. Six classical guitar Melody Gardot. The US Grammy–nominated singer- DON’T MISS! concerts in a beautiful setting. FROM WED 2. See p. 44 songwriter performs at L’Auditori. MON 21. See p. 48

WEDNESDAY SUNDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 09 13 16 17 Music Sport Football Music Maceo Parker Zurich Marató de BCN Barça vs. Arsenal The Vaccines US funk and soul ja\\ The city’s longest road Another Champions English indie group saxophonist. See p. 46 race returns. See p. 38 League face off. See p. 39 appear live. See p. 48

FRIDAY SUNDAY MONDAY WEDNESDAY 18 20 21 30 Festival Traditions Music Dance Escala Barcelona Human towers Salif Keita Carmen Celebrating the city’s Display of castellers in Malian musician takes Adaptation of famous maritime past. See p. 39 Sants. See p. 40 the stage. See p. 48 Bi\et opera. See p. 53

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 5 People of Barcelona Adam Giles Levy BCN: Musician, 34 years old TOP SECRET

By Begoña García In your former life you were a lawyer in London, right? That’s right. In 2003, when I was _Ramon Casas, studying law, I spent a sabbatical year in Barcelona, as I wanted to the painter learn Spanish. I’d always been responsible involved with music, but I felt I should commit to something for the famous more secure. ‘Tandem’ What made you move into music? in Els 4 Gats, also In 2012 I realised that you can’t decorated the wait for the right moment to make a decision like that. You have to Mermaid Room assume that you need to take a in Fonda España risk, and take that step. (Sant Pau, 9). You started a band, Coloured Sky. _On the corner Yes, that was in Vancouver (Canada), where I lived for two where C/Entença years. We brought out an EP. It meets C/Tamarit had more of a rock feel to it – think Foo Fighters, Pearl Jam. As is The Houses of it’s close to Seattle, my Snails, a late 19th- bandmates had those grunge inƂ uences. In March last year, I your music? century building moved here permanently. I don’t think so, and if it has, I’m decorated with not aware of it. But if you ask me What you do now is softer. in a couple of years, I might well myriad molluscs. And melodic. It Ɓ ts nicely under say yes. These things can take a the ‘contemporary folk’ heading. while to show themselves. _The early Gustave Flaubert story 9KVJGNGOGPVUQH[QWTƁTUV Why do you make EPs? KPƂWGPEG(NGGVYQQF/CE! AN OBJECT: THE I see them as part of the learning ‘Bibliomanie’ Maybe, yes. I listened endlessly MIRABLAU BAR process. Each EP is another step was inspired to records such as Rumours and Levy is a fan of the view of towards a full album. This way I Tango in the Night because my Barcelona that you can enjoy from learn who I am, musically by a Barcelona dad played them every day. Now I this spot high up in Collserola. speaking. Unravelled is the Ɓ rst bookseller alleged prefer to look for new music. of my EPs where I see coherence. The previous records had a lot of to have killed his What made you stay in different styles mixed in. clients to recover Barcelona? In part it’s because my girlfriend Have you ever regretted leaving their tomes. is Catalan. your career as a lawyer? _C/Secretari I try not to think about it too A classic. much. As a lawyer you get used Coloma, in Gr¼cia, It’s a great place to live. On my PLACE OF ORIGIN: to having money and you build is named for a 15th- new EP, Unravelled, one of the GUILDFORD (UK) your life around that. I’ve had to songs is inspired by Montserrat. It’s about 50km from London, a change my lifestyle, it’s true. But century secretary It’s about the importance of city where he’s also lived, along now I’m happier. What I want is to of the Spanish connecting with nature. with Bristol. improve as a musician. Inquisition. Do you think Barcelona has –Jordi Bianciotto KPƂWGPEGFVJGEJCTCEVGTQH

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com I love BCN Mercat Santa Caterina Av. Francesc Combo, 16

On top, a colourful tiled roof. Below, What am I historical remains. And in between, stalls bursting with delicious food. doing here?

Jan Fleischer Who you callin’ quirky?

If you’ve done your fair share of travelling, you know that, much to Starbucks’ frustration, different countries, cities and people, are just that – different. When I Ɓ rst discovered the (see page 28), I got so excited to share this tradition from my newly adopted home with my loved ones an ocean away. A few of them had their religious sensibilities offended, and there was me trying to explain, but it’s part of a religious tradition! A few laughed. And a few made a face as if it was a scratch-and-sniff Ɓ gurine. Don’t worry, it’s not. Part of the fun of Ƃ inging yourself round the globe is getting to learn about and enjoy the differences. The way the unfamiliar money feels in your hand and how it makes you ill at ease as you try to count out the right amount. The Ƃ avours and sensations of strange foods to your palate. How a few words in a foreign language can really help you get on despite your feeling reduced to the vocabulary level of a toddler. Rather than crumble in embarrassment, revel in these moments of being

KAROL KOZLOWSKI KAROL vulnerable and open to new experiences and growth. So your culture doesn’t involve as many celebrations involving WTF IS... poop as the . Guess what, Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer they don’t get what a giant creepy bunny who hoards sweets and potentially rotten eggs in your garden has to do with Easter. Go with it and have some fun. And if PorrÏ you really can’t get into the spirit, there’s always a Starbucks around the next corner. If you get a chance to drink from a porró (pu-ROH, with a rolling double r), take it. The more advanced can drink wine from the Jan has a weakness for a spout, the porrÏ held at arm’s length, without spilling a drop. grande chai latte

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 7 ‘The Goddess’, a copy, sits in Plaça Catalunya. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA

The rose window of Santa Maria del Mar is from 1460.

Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agustí Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Gothic just off you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big . It’s at least 1,500 shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to take breakfast among the tree-lined years old and has recently home. As you’re strolling around, Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Eixample Esquerre. undergone extensive renovation keep an eye out for The Box Chino’, the Raval has inspired El VelÏdromo (Muntaner, 213) works. Next, stop in at the (Brosolí, 8), set up by three clothes many a writer. Nowadays, opens at 6am, for those of you spectacular Santa Maria del Mar designers; OnLand (Princesa, 25), it’s a place where local really keen to get going, while church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1) and where both men and women can businesses thrive in the Travel & Cake (RossellÏ, 189) visit the adjoining square of Ɓ nd new threads; and Studiostore form of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and , which (Comerç, 17), with everything from restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet commemorates those who died in clothes and eyewear to original maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once the 1714 Siege of Barcelona. Head cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, to El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Street culture is booming jump on public transport and Comercial, 12), an iron and glass here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural structure built in 1876 as a market. 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book on Today it’s been transformed into an It’s time to eat www.parkguell.cat/en to ensure educational site where you can For dinner, try the Asian tapas at you get in to the ‘monumental’ see extensive remains from the Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll but can gra\e from 17 different food \one and save a euro. Bonus! 18th-century city and discover what melt in your mouth. Always a sure ‘stalls’. To top off the night, head in life was like back then. thing is a meal in one of the city’s the direction of the sea and have a fresh markets, such as Santa drink in Absenta (Sant Carles, 36) 12:00-14:00 Caterina (Av. Francesc CambÏ, 16) to be sure of getting a good night’s Gracious living 17:00-19:30 with its attention-drawing rooftop, or sleep, or try the more upscale Grab a bite down the hill in Sustenance and shopping try Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Gr¼cia, at the woodsy and Stop for a break in one of the Born’s 21), where you don’t have to limit BorbÏ, 69) or CafÅ de los Angelitos spacious CafÅ SalambÏ lesser-known squares, such as your choice to just one restaurant (Almirall Cervera, 26). (Torrijos, 51) or at La Pubilla

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8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS

The city’s theme park, Tibidabo, reopens this month.

(Pl. de la Llibertat, 23), (Diagonal, 332). Alternatively, plentiful gardens, such as the specialising in old-school local take L5 of the metro from the 19:30-02:00 Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, food or, if the weather’s nice, in a Sagrada Família station to the Big night out 2). Another highlight is the Museu square such as Plaça del Diagonal stop and stroll down Try the out-of-this-world double Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Diamant or Plaça de la Vila de Passeig de Gr¼cia to hit the terrace of Invisible–Pi\\a Ravalo (MNAC), with its ample collections Gr¼cia. While you’re in the area, biggies: La Pedrera (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa and varied temporary exhibitions. have a look around for some (Provença, 261), Carles for a healthy vegetarian unusual souvenirs in the shop- (Pg. de Gr¼cia, 41) and Casa option (Jovellanos, 2), or the lined streets – suggestions BatllÏ (Pg. de Gr¼cia, 43). Mediterranean banquet that is Lo 13:00-15:00 include Boo for clothes de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining End on a beach spot (Bonavista, 2) and MueblÅ your stomach, get a couple of drinks Take the cable car from Montjuïc to (Martíne\ de la Rosa, 34) for in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the bar- Barceloneta, with its beaches and homewares. laden street of Joaquín Costa (46 boats, where you can relax with a WANDER OFF and 39, respectively), and then vermouth and a . Most ease on down to the dance Ƃ oors at restaurants in Barceloneta 14:30-18:00 Many visitors stick to the Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113) specialise in seafood, taking Explore modernisme centre, but the city is so much and/or Marula (Escudillers, 39). advantage of the nearby Med. The Next stop: the Sagrada Família. more. Gr¼cia is full of life at all prime real estate means some of Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very hours of the day, Sarri¼ the better spots aren’t cheap, but if crowded, but it’s worth taking retains much of its small-town 10:00-12:00 you’re feeling Ƃ ush, they’re worth it. your time to appreciate his feel, while Poble-sec and Sant Mountain climbing Try Can SolÅ (Sant Carles, 4), La vision. Afterwards, walk over to Antoni are currently the Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de BorbÏ, 58) Av. Diagonal to keep the places to be, thanks to their Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan modernisme theme going by top cuisine and quality mood for, you can visit the Joan MirÏ de BorbÏ, 65). A great place for the taking a look at Casa de les nightlife. And don’t forget the Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), more budget-conscious, with a Punxes (RossellÏ, 260), Palau hilltop theme park of Tibidabo, the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy del BarÏ de 3uadras (Diagonal, with its rides old and new. nearby constructions from the dishes to go with their relaxed vibe, 373) and Casa Planells 1992 Games, or walk around the is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).

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Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 9 Tourism Desk

Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes

Enotourism experiences Come and discover the your visit with bike tours, origins of wine and cava. walking tours, human Take a break during your towers, cheese or trip and treat yourself to chocolate a gastronomic wine or tasting cava experience in and Barcelona, Montserrat, more. Buy your tickets at Penedès or Alella – a tickets. genuine Ɓrsthand visitbarcelona. winemaking experience. com Enjoy nature and its fruits while combining Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the cosmopolitan city that offers city centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You will and gastronomic excursions; BARCELONA BY DARK! be surprised at what you can Ɓnd panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the tickets. tours or themed routes through visitbarcelona.com website and speciƁc districts; cooking the Turisme de Barcelona Tourist workshops, wine and chocolate Information Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for There are many ways to visit the little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings like the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música, or to museums, taking partner – and a multitude of advantage of the ArTicket or reasons to come here: the Barcelona multi-tickets, with culture, cuisine, music, art... free transport and discounts; Whether you’re planning to and babysitting services, see the best-known attractions wheelchair, pram and pushchair Dinners in the dark The city’s dark past or you’re looking for a truly hire, in addition to the standard If you enjoy experiencing new Discover medieval Barcelona special experience, at tickets. left-luggage services and sensations, try Dans le Noir, a with an expert guide, and visit visitbarcelona.com you will Ɓnd airport transfers. unique restaurant where you can landmarks around the Born more than 200 suggestions to There are many Barcelonas to test your senses of taste, touch neighbourhood that have suit a wide range of tastes. explore. Which one is yours? and smell by savouring surprise survived the harsh conditions of You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of menus in total darkness. the medieval period. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Buy your tickets at tickets.visitbarcelona.com guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the tickets.visitbarcelona.com

10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 11 Get this timeout.com/barcelona Discover Barcelona’s amazing tours Visit the ancient, medieval and modern sights of Barcelona. Book the best tours through our website

The best tapas restaurants Spanish F1 Grand Prix 2016 Where to go for the ultimate in Catalan and Get your tickets for the Formula 1 and start Spanish tapas your heart racing You’ll Ɓnd tempting tapas just about everywhere you turn in Barcelona. The Spanish F1 Grand Prix is one of the most eagerly awaited sporting The choice can be overwhelming, so we’re here to guide you to the best events in Catalonia each year. Buy your tickets through our website and tapas restaurants in the city and help make your decision easier. enjoy the 2016 edition, which takes place on May 13, 14 and 15.

Book a table and enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the Book your tickets online for Barcelona events and attractions at city at www.timeout.com/barcelona. www.timeout.com/barcelona, and don’t miss a thing.

12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 13 Shhh... Don’t tell anybody

Gardens, art galleries, buildings, hair salons, restaurants, cocktail bars, concerts… There’s a whole part of Barcelona that’s not immediately obvious, and only accessible to the most perceptive. Read on and you’ll become a member of that exclusive group.

By Laura Conde Photographs Iván Moreno

14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com PALAU BARÓ DE QUADRAS

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 15 THROUGH A TINY DOOR IN THE MEDIEVAL JEWISH QUARTER, IN A PLACE THAT AT FIRST LOOKS LIKE A GOBLIN HOME, ONCE STOOD THE CITY’S MAIN SYNAGOGUE

Sinagoga Major

of creative cocktails that’s also said to have stolen the heart of other celebrities, such as Woody Allen.| Diagonal, 438 (Gràcia) ⓣ 93 415 85 15

BAR PASAJES Renowned as one of the best places for canyes (small draught beers) in Barcelona, the truth is that once you get to this part of , you’ll want to stay forever more, even if they end up serving only petrol. But we don’t think that will ever happen, because in this former concierge’s booth, they not only have quality canyes but also excellently made, straightforward tapas and charm – charm that no multi-award-winning interior designer could ever hope to achieve.| MATÍS BAR Sant Pere Més Alt, 31 (La Ribera) Inside the Col·legi d’Arquitectes de Catalunya ⓣ 93 310 55 35 (COAC), just in front of the Gothic Cathedral, www.facebook.com/bar.pasajes you’ll Ɓnd one of the best tapas bars in Barcelona, a welcoming, creative spot. The SINAGOGA MAJOR DE BARCELONA man in charge of this informal and highly Through a tiny door, which looks like many recommendable place is chef Artur Martínez, others in El Call (Barcelona’s medieval Jewish who won a Michelin star for his restaurant quarter), is a place that upon Ɓrst glance looks Capritx, located in the nearby town of Terrassa. like the home to a kind family of goblins, but At Matís he serves his most carefree take on was actually once the city’s main synagogue. tapas with the likes of xatorejo (a mix of cold Built in the 6th century and rebuilt in the 14th, cod salad, xató, and thick cold tomato soup, it’s one of the oldest synagogues in Europe and When you venture inside air- salmorejo), and the home-made hot dog, a place worth visiting, thanks to its retaining its raid shelter No 307 (Nou de which is served without bread.| la Rambla, 169) and the one original appearance and offering an invitation to Plaça Nova, 5 (Barri Gòtic) in Plaça del Diamant – both understand Barcelona a little better. It’s open ⓣ 93 412 19 95 DON’T are open to the public, to the public for visits as well as private www.matisbar.com although only on certain ceremonies.| FORGET THE days of the week – you’ll Marlet, 5 (Barri Gòtic) MUTIS WAR probably be unable to www.calldebarcelona.org The cocktail area of Bar Mut was breathe for a moment or two. And you might have the created under a cloud of stealth, but paralysing sensation that PALAU BARÓ DE QUADRAS when circumstances see you cross you can still hear the sound Many of Barcelona’s modernista buildings are paths with Robert De Niro and it turns out he of the bombs that fell, not so spectacularly in your face. Wander down loves you, it becomes awfully difƁcult to remain NQPICIQQPVJKUEKV[| Passeig de Gràcia and you’ll scarcely notice out of sight. And if the magazine Drinks anything apart from such gems as Casa International chooses you as the best cocktail Amatller, Casa Batlló and La Pedrera. However, bar in Europe, all is truly lost. Mutis is located with the spotlight falling so consistently on on the Ɓrst Ƃoor of Bar Mut and it’s a paradise such venues, it’s worth seeking out less-

16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com There’s a small street that runs between C/ de and C/Ferran called Aroles. In the middle of that street, you can take a public lift to a paradise of vegetation. You can also reach it through the Hotel Petit Palace Boqueria Garden (Boqueria, 10).

A SECRET FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES GARDEN IN THE CITY CENTRE

performance is taking place but never who’s playing – that’s only revealed on the night of the concert itself.| www.facebook.com/sofarbcn

ROMAN AQUEDUCT In the heart of the city, close to the busy commercial thoroughfare that is Portal de l’œngel, you’ll Ɓnd four arches from the Roman aqueduct that, for many years, brought water to Barcino (the name of the Roman settlement that once stood here) from the Besòs river – the arches are now integrated into the wall of a more modern building. The sight of this Roman relic in a square that houses a children’s playground will carry you back through the centuries, but, if you have any soul at all, will also make you feel rather wistful.| Pl. del Vuit de Març, s/n (Barri Gòtic)

OLOKUTI explored territory with a visit to this ornamental This organic and fair-trade shop in Gràcia is ediƁce, which also features Gothic and Islamic ideal for visiting now that spring is on its way inƂuences, and is located just minutes from the once more, giving you the chance to browse top end of Passeig de Gràcia. Guided tours its ample stock and enjoy a coffee in its organised by Cases Singulars (Unique Houses) magniƁcent garden that you wouldn’t expect to only started last month, so you’ll be among the WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A Ɓnd when you enter Olokuti from the street. It’s Ɓrst wave of explorers to delve into its corners. an ideal place to take a break, drink in hand, Diagonal, 373 (Eixample Dret) FORMER GYM THAT YOU from the Gràcia buzz, in an urban oasis that ⓣ 670 466 260 provides a breathing space for all ages.| www.casessingulars.com FIND BEHIND A HIDDEN Astúries, 36-38 (Gràcia) ⓣ 93 217 00 70 SOFAR SOUNDS DOOR IN PREMISES www.olokuti.com Who wouldn’t change the hardships of macrofestivals for the comfort of their sofa, WHERE YOU’RE LES GRUTES DE JUJOL blanket included? This initiative, which already La Finca Sansalvador is just by the entrance to works in cities such as London, recently arrived PLANNING TO SET UP A the Creueta del Coll park. This modernista in Barcelona and includes a programme of house has underground galleries from which concerts in intimate venues, usually COOKING SCHOOL? you can access a well of medicinal waters that apartments and private houses. To be in the was discovered by accident. It happened at the audience, you need to subscribe to their La Foodieteca start of the 20th century, when architect Josep newsletter, which will let you know where the Maria Jujol was just beginning construction of

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 17 BAR PASAJES

18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com JUST IN FRONT OF THE GOTHIC CATHEDRAL, INSIDE THE CATALAN COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTS, IS ONE OF THE BEST TAPAS BARS IN BARCELONA Matís Bar the building. Today the house is the headquarters of the Taller d’Història de Gràcia (the Gràcia History Workshop), and the grottos can be visited the second Saturday and fourth Sunday of every month.| Pg. de la Mare de Déu de Coll, 79 (Gràcia)

QUINTO CUARTA In an unknown location in Barcelona, you’ll Ɓnd this restaurant that deƁnes its philosophy as strictly hush-hush, a concept that is already widespread in places such as New York and London, but is still rather undeveloped in Barcelona. They don’t give out their address, there’s no menu and the secret of their success is down to word of mouth. All you have to do to be part of the gang is send an email to the creator of the project, Alessandro Castro, who goes shopping every day in the Boqueria contemporary national and international market and then creates an extensive set artists. If you go there this month, you’ll menu using fresh produce that costs around discover Raimond Chaves’s exhibition The €30, which – he’s Sicilian, it’s inevitable – takes Abstract Life of Billy Murcia (until March 12). its cue from Italy.| SHAMPOO, Together with Gilda Mantilla, Colombian Chaves ⓣ 630 774 712 SCISSORS, DYES recently represented his adopted country of [email protected] Peru at the 56th Venice Biennale. @quintocuartabcn AND DRINKS Ptge. de Mercader, 8 (Eixample Esquerre) ⓣ 93 488 13 60 THE GREEN PARROT www.projectesd.com If you head to this not-for-proƁt contemporary art gallery, which takes its name from the birds that CASETA DE NINES DEL PUTXET you can see (and hear) from its windows, you’ll The Secret Room (Consell de This is both a fantastic viewpoint from which to enjoy a magniƁcent view of the Plaça de la Vila Cent, 304. T. 93 348 76 08) appreciate the city and a valuable modernista de Madrid and, until March 18, an exhibition of is perhaps the epitome of jewel that dates from the end of the 19th Barcelona’s hairdresser’s- work by Daniel Steegmann Mangrané, a with-a-plus sector. You enter century. This small house, which is covered in Barcelona artist now based in Rio de Janeiro. through a regal, majestic multicoloured tiles, is in the neighbourhood of The parrots will take you there: at No 21 of C/ building, which gives way to Putxet, on C/ de la Costa, close to the Jardins d’en Bot you’ll see a small drawing of one on the an imposing space that de Mercè Rodoreda park. It was built by Delfí intercom; you just have to follow it.| doesn’t need any decoration Guinovart and Núria Coma to be used as a play Bot, 21 (Barri Gòtic) for it to distill complete space for their children and, luckily for kids ⓣ 644 883 500 charm. As well as having today, all the original elements have been kept.| your hair cut, you can enjoy www.thegreenparrot.org exhibitions, wine tastings and Costa, 86 (Sarrià-Sant Gervasi) cocktails. GALERIA PROJECTE SD THE ROOM HAIRSTYLE To get into this art gallery, you need to go One of Barcelona’s coolest hairdresser’s is through an entryway off Passatge de Mercader, located on the top Ƃoor of a clothes shop that as if you were just another resident, then stocks urban-casual pieces from Scandinavian explore this space that schedules shows by labels that are not easy to Ɓnd in this city. If you

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 19 HIDDEN FOOD TAKE A BREAK Many well-known Barcelona restaurants IN AN URBAN have looked to join in the fun of clandestine OASIS eating or, at the least, the joy of discovering the new. Such is the case with La Cuina d’en Garriga (Consell de Cent, 308), both a shop specialising in local produce and a restaurant with a small wine cellar that has four little tables where you can try dishes from the menu in an intimate, relaxed atmosphere. If you fancy dining with a view of La Boqueria market, the mezzanine Ƃoor of Paella Bar (Pòrtics de La Boqueria, Locals 6-7) is ideal for groups of up to 15. On the other hand, if it’s quality tapas made OLOKUTI by a renowned chef that you’re in the mood for, Suculent (Rambla del Raval, 43) is the work of the innovative Carles Abellan, and head to The Room Hairstyle, make sure you behind a hidden door in the premises where it has two hidden corners – on the lower have your Visa on a tight lead, because you’re planning to set up a cooking school? ground Ƃoor is an area reserved for seven temptation will pop out at you from all sides, Maria, who from the very beginning wanted to people with personalised menus, and on in what is a truly trendy space, in the form of stay loyal to the California Loop Gym, knew the upper Ƃoor are Ɓve small tables for trainers, bags, T-shirts, sweaters, cosmetics exactly what to do – organise gastronomic eating à la carte.| and amazing hairstyles. show cookings with two key protagonists: deli But it’s impossible to talk about Duc, 5 (Barri Gòtic) specialities (foie gras, oysters) and Barcelona restaurants with secrets ⓣ 93 317 18 21 entertainment in its purest form.| without mentioning Set Portes (Pg. www.theroombarcelona.com Ramon Berenguer el Gran, 2, entl. 1a d’Isabel II, 14). Its Ɓrst Ƃoor is a strange (Barri Gòtic) network of doors behind which are hidden FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES ⓣ 93 269 39 45 two large private dining rooms and two Yes, we’re well aware that there’s nothing secret www.foodieteca.com smaller rooms where political and about this cultural landmark in the heart of the business decisions have been taken that city, with its eye-catching modernista façade on 5º 1ª have had a big inƂuence on the lives of top of which is perched the metal Tàpies In a penthouse apartment in the centre of locals.| , ‘Cloud and Chair’. However, as the Barcelona, one blessed with a stunning terrace, For his part, chef Paco Pérez has also crowds enjoy the exhibitions, head off to the you might expect to Ɓnd many things, but not a joined the trend with the opening of Doble, second-Ƃoor terrace (take a lift from the lower hair salon. And if that salon was, in addition, a inside L’Eggs restaurant (Pg. de Gràcia, ground Ƃoor) and check out Tàpies’s ‘Sock’. cocktail bar, giving you the chance to Ƃick 116), which opens at night from Thursday Originally supposed to be 18 metres tall and through a glossy mag, Blondie Mary in hand, on to Saturday, offering signature cocktails stand in the main hall of the MNAC, his 1991 Friday afternoon or Saturday morning, while you and avant-garde cooking in a proposal for a sculpture of a dirty, holey sock wait for your highlights to be touched up, you’ll sophisticated, chic setting.| was rejected. Some 20 years later he created wonder to yourself why no one thought of this mini (2.75m) version for his Foundation. | creating 5º 1ª before. You don’t like the thought Aragó, 255 (Eixample Dret) of a Blondie Mary? Don’t worry – there’s any ⓣ 93 487 03 15 number of other cocktails to choose from, such www.fundaciotapies.org as the Ginto Premium. Rda. de la Universitat, 20 (Eixample Dret) EL PALADAR ⓣ 93 412 51 62 Can you imagine heading out to Ɓsh in the sea www.quintoprimera.com around Sitges? And doing it in the company of expert Ɓsherman and chef Oriol Serra, who EL PASSAT DE LA BARCELONA MÉS FOSCA afterwards will take you to the terrace of his After it was announced that Barcelona was to house, and cook all the goodies you caught? host the 1992 Olympic Games, a huge clean-up Enjoy the cooking You’ll enjoy a long, varied meal including lobster and renovation operation was undertaken of Carles Abellan in and other shellƁsh. You can go either just for across the city. Thankfully, while the project a private space at the supper or the whole experience, in groups brought a lot of improvements, it didn’t wipe Suculent of at least six people. The meal starts at €100. away all traces of Barcelona’s medieval past, Ɓ[email protected] which you can discover on this guided tour. Hear about legends, curses and stories of death as LA FOODIETECA you traverse the dark, narrow backstreets of What to do with a former gym called California Santa Caterina, La Ribera i Sant Pere. Loop Gym that you come across by accident, tickets.visitbarcelona.com

20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com

Slurp ’em up!

The restaurants VJCVEQPƁTO Barcelona’s ramen boom. Chopsticks at the ready!

By Ricard Martín Photographs Iván Moreno

22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com HIROKI, THE RAMEN KARATE KID

The restaurant is as small and THE RAMEN as charming as its owner, Hiroki Yoshiyuki, originally from Hiroshima. WESTERN He’s a young chef who radiates good vibes and enthusiasm, and It was cult Japanese who, curiously enough, didn’t learn comedy Tampopo his trade in his home country, but (1986) that got in Australia. ‘Ten years ago, when I Giles Brown, owner of was at university, I went to Sydney Grasshopper, to learn English for around eight hooked on ramen. months,’ he says. He found a Defined by its director ramen bar he loved. ‘I was bitten as a ramen western, by the ramen bug in Sydney, not in the film is the reason Japan.’ And he thinks that it was, in why dozens of part, because of the atmosphere. noodle bars around ‘Outside Japan, people go crazy the world are called about this kind of food. When I was Tampopo. cooking, customers would come and tell me I was a genius, they’d leave tips. That would never happen can drape them on your plate and press in Japan.’ He decided he wanted to Ramen-Ya Hiro them with your chopstick, and they make ramen all around the world. Ramen-Ya Hiro is at a non-stop rolling release broth while retaining their ‘After three years making ramen boil – the kitchen is working at full elasticity. As I wolf down the shoyu for 15 hours a day in Tokyo, I set out steam. The other side of the bar is ramen, amazed by their density, the for Barcelona, because I liked the packed with people slurping, digging in combination of two types of stock and music, the people, Barça, and the with chopsticks, and spooning up the tenderness of the slice of pork, I cultures of Catalonia and .’ stocks that were cooked over a low detect a hint of seafood, and my mind While in the kitchen, he’d think Ƃame for 10 hours overnight. Hiroki immediately takes me back to my about how he’d like his own place to (see column) makes it clear that they mother’s mar i muntanya (Catalan be. He worked at Tempura-Ya, where only make three types of ramen version of surf and turf). P: €10-€15. they let him have a copy of the keys. because they ‘want to specialise in Set lunch menu: €10.50 At night, he tested his ideas, put in quality and speed’. You’ll Ɓnd the , 164 (Eixample Dret) the hours. Four years later, he was classic recipes: shoyu (with a broth of ⓣ 93 002 84 41 ready to step up and face his Ɓrst chicken and pork, plus soy sauce), miso combat in the ramen ring. (the same but with miso instead of soy) and seafood. The noodles, which are Grasshopper home-made (you’ll see the machine at Ramen Bar the end of the bar), are amazing: you When it comes to Asian restaurants in Barcelona, the name Giles Brown is a CHINESE STYLE! guarantee of quality. He’s the British owner of Mosquito and Red Ant, and has an approach to Asian food that’s Ramen-Ya Hiro, KAI XUAN methodical and obsessive. Grasshopper, $CTEGNQPCoUƁTUV which practically opened yesterday, is bar specialising in even smaller than Ramen-Ya Hiro: a ramen, opened There’s no doubt about it – Kai Xuan short bar that seats around 15. Brown three years ago. is a genuine Chinese restaurant. The describes ramen broths that take 18 owner’s son, Kai Zhou, makes it hours to cook and explains the tares – clear that you won’t Ɓnd denatured the sauces or broth bases that dishes designed to please Spanish distinguish one type of ramen from palates. They specialise in lamian, another. Summing up, he tells me that the Chinese noodles that were the ramen is haute cuisine that has to be ancestors of ramen. It’s heretical to served fast – nothing to be sniffed at. say so, but they’re not actually that They also make their own noodles to different: the soup is made with pork which they add kansui, an alkaline rib and chicken stock, and they’re mineral solution that gives ramen less salty but perhaps also less noodles their characteristic yellow colour delicate than the Japanese version. (and helps keep the dough elastic and Roger de Flor, 74 absorbent). They serve all three tares – ⓣ 93 245 03 59 miso, shoyu and Ɓsh – as well as a vegetarian ramen. I opted for the shoyu –

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 23 CHINESE STYLE! CHEN JI

Generally known as ‘that Chinese place on Trafalgar’, their bowls of lamian are generous and outstandingly good: in fact, on a busy day the sound of conversation is drowned out by tables of Chinese and Catalan regulars slurping up the chunky noodles and munching on the pork ribs Ƃoating in the soup. The broth here packs a solid punch of Ƃavour with more delicate overtones. Don’t worry about making a mess – there’s an entire pack of paper napkins on each table! Alí Bei, 65 ⓣ 93 247 68 31

unique for one reason: according to the owners – the only Catalans in the ramen business that I’ve met so far –they are the only restaurant to serve tonkotsu stock in Barcelona, made exclusively with pork bones. ‘There’s a lot more to it than boiling up a pork bone, it has to emulsify, to be creamy and thick,’ says Albert Mata, business partner and chef, who travelled to Hakata, where this ramen style originates, to master the technique. Back home, the hardest part was Ɓnding a reliable pork bone supplier: they needed the sought-after ham bones. The tares add subtle Ƃavours, but you immediately notice the difference compared to other varieties: the taste is strong but restrained, with a hint of sweetness, plus the incomparable Ƃavour. Like the taste of great ham. If you add bacon as an extra (they could include it in the broth to begin with, just saying), the result is a porktastic taste explosion. P: €20. Set lunch menu: €15. delicious – and had a hard time choosing everything is home-made... except the València, 290 (Eixample Dret) a beer from an army of craft brews. seaweed. Irish humour. There are other ⓣ 93 510 78 57 P: €10-€15. Irish touches: the cider, the pub-like feel Pl. de la Llana, 9 (Born) and desserts such as their take on ⓣ 93 500 50 81 banoffee pie (a gorgeous toffee and Samurai Ramen banana combo that everyone needs to The sign on the door says Ramen Can, THE IRISH try at least once). They have a ramen but the ofƁcial name is now Samurai Koku Kitchen TOUCH! user’s guide on the wall, advising Ramen: it advertises itself as a ramen Koku Kitchen is one of the oldest ramen customers to slurp loudly and not be shy bar that puts the emphasis on healthy bars in town: it opened a whole 16 Apart from delicious – and if you love the soup, to show your recipes (although when it comes to months ago! Owners Mark Liston and bowls of Japanese appreciation with an empty bowl. ‘I just ramen, that almost goes without saying). Ross O’Doherty are Irish, and the chef, noodles, Koku Kitchen got my whole face wet,’ laughs the young It’s not in the running for top noodle bar Robert Johansson, is Swedish. ‘We break with orthodoxy woman next to us as she puts the in the city – they lack Ɓnesse in the don’t want to confuse people by trying to with Irish and British instructions into practice. P: €10-€15. toppings and the presentation – but their be a Japanese restaurant. We serve specialities (they have Set lunch menu: €11.50. set lunch menu, which includes ramen, a Japanese food, but that’s not where craft cider). Follow up Carabassa, 19 (Gòtic) drink and a tapa for €11 (€9 without the we’re from,’ they say. The ramen, your ramen with their ⓣ 93 315 64 11 tapa), offers great value for money, and however, is excellent, and follows an insanely good the stock and noodles are excellent. P: undisputably Japanese recipe – the chef banoffee dessert. €9-€12. Set lunch menu: €9-€11. studied for a year at the renowned Oraga Tonkotsu Lleida, 11 (Poble-sec) Noodles in Tokyo. They assure me that Open for just over half a year, Tonkotsu is ⓣ 93 277 89 10

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01 URBAN FARM- HOUSES

A house can express the character of a people, and the example of the masies [maz-EE-yaz] – traditional Catalan farmhouses – that still survive in Barcelona are a 02 reminder of the city’s rural past. The Fundació Mas i Terra, a foundation that works to conserve and rehabilitate the city’s heritage, maintains a database of Barcelona’s masies, aiming to document both those that are still standing and those that have disappeared – a total of 603. The project culminated in the publication of a book, Masies de Barcelona (Angle Editorial, 2009). We’ve travelled all over the city to track down these monuments to the past, which are today reincarnated as civic centres, schools and restaurants, each a witness to hundreds of years of history.

By Maria Junyent Photographs Irene Fernández

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 03 10 BARCELONA FARMHOUSES

01. CAN MESTRES In 1997 Barcelona city council expropriated the land around Masia de Can Mestres (Camí de Can Clos, 1-9), opening it up to the city and the neighbourhood. It’s now part of the city’s allotment network and an urban farm. 02. CAN CORTADA A Roman villa once stood on the site of Can Cortada (Av. l’Estatut de Catalunya, s/n), to which the medieval lords of Horta added a defensive tower. In the 16th century, it became a farm supplying Horta and Gràcia markets. Today it’s a majestic restaurant. 03. TORRE DE SANT JOAN In the 13th century this fortiƁed house belonged to the Order of the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem. It’s now part of Escola Casa (Sant Joan de Malta, 44), a school that opened in 1932. 04. CAN MASDEU This 17th-century farmhouse was rebuilt in the 20th century as a convent, and later used as a leper hospital. After standing empty for 50 years, it was squatted in 2001, and now houses a community that promotes shared use of communal spaces. canmasdeu.net 05. TORRE DEL RELLOTGE Tucked between Plaça d’Ibèria and Plaça 04 de Bonet i Muixí in Sants is a 14th-century farmhouse that once housed the district’s historical archive. It’s now part of the Cotxeres de Sants civic centre. 06. VIL·LA JOANA The oldest documents about this Collserola house date from the 1500s. The Ɓnal home of poet Joan Verdaguer, it’s now managed by the Barcelona History Museum and is currently being done up (Ctra. de l’Eglèsia, 104). 07. CAN CANET DE LA RIERA In medieval times, Can Canet de la Riera (Bosch i Gimpera, 5) was a farm that produced cereal crops, grapes and carob beans. Since 1954 it’s been home to the Barcelona Royal Tennis Club. 08. CAN PLANES Known to all as La Masia (Maternitat, s/n), this was the residential accommodation for Barça’s youth teams until 2011, and is still a synonym for the club’s famous academy. 09. CAN MÓRA Situated at the gates of Park Güell, Can Móra (Portell, 11-13) was built in 1750. Protected as a building of local interest, the masia survives today as an old people’s home. 10. CAN CASTELLÓ Situated in Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, this bourgeois masia was built in the late 17th century and remodelled in a modernista style in the 20th. Today it houses the Can Castelló civic centre (Castelló, 1).

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 27 QUIRKY TRADITIONS

or 18th century, this exceptional Nativity TIÓ DE NADAL addition isn’t meant to be offensive. The L’OU COM BALLA On the feast day of the Immaculate Conception caganer symbolised fertile soil and meant a Sixty days after Easter Sunday, on Corpus (December 8), a log with legs, a smiling face, year of plentiful crops. Nowadays, it’s often Christi, locals celebrate the tradition of L’ou and a red hat appears in houses across thought to bring a year of good fortune. In com balla, or ‘the dancing egg’. On this day, Catalonia. This is the Tió de Nadal (‘Christmas addition, the caganer has recently taken on fountains in churches and other landmark log’), but he’s sometimes nicknamed the caga more contemporary forms. In many shops buildings across Barcelona are lavishly tió, which loosely translates as ‘poo log’. and markets around Barcelona you can Ɓ nd decorated with Ƃ owers, and an egg is set atop Families cover the Tió with a blanket, and every famous footballers, politicians, superheroes, the main stream of water, where it does its night until Christmas, they feed him. The religious icons and Ɓ lm stars caught in the dance. No one knows exactly how the curious children have to take good care of their little log compromising position of the caganer. tradition started, but it’s widely accepted to so he will poo out treats and gifts for them. On have begun in 1637 at . Christmas Eve or Day, children stand around Today, locals Ƃ ock there or to one of the other their log friend, beat him with a stick and sing CASTANYADA participating venues to witness the egg, which the Tió de Nadal song. Though there are many On All Saints’ Day (Nov 1), the Castanyada is represents rebirth or Holy Communion variations, a popular version goes: Caga tió, celebrated throughout Catalonia. Just like (depending on who you ask), as it bounces, hazelnuts and nougat / If you don’t want to poo Halloween, its origins are in an ancient ritual twirls and dances. / We will hit you with a stick. After singing, the festival for the dead, and it sees local families kids look under the blanket to see what their log eat roasted chestnuts (castanyes) and sweet has pooped out to gobble up or play with. potatoes (moniatos), marzipan-based panellet CORREFOC cakes and preserved fruits. Some say the feast Often the most striking event of Catalan comes from traditional funeral meals, while festivals, such as Barcelona’s biggie, La Mercè CAGANER others believe it’s based on what people would in September, the correfoc (‘Ɓ re run’) Continuing Catalonia’s fascination with poop is eat after ringing bells in the early morning of All represents the epic battle between good and the caganer, which means ‘the shitting one’ in Saints’ Day in memory of the dead. Today, the evil. Colles de diables (groups of devils) dance Catalan. This Ɓ gurine, traditionally dressed in festival is personiƁ ed by street vendors who set to drums, push giant beasts through the peasant clothes, is caught pants down, up stalls around Barcelona in the autumn and streets and light Ɓ reworks on pitchforks. The squatting and, you guessed it, defecating. He’s winter (even if summer weather still prevails as devil dancers then weave through the crowd, placed in local Nativity scenes, and many kids it has in recent years) to roast chestnuts and spewing sparks everywhere they go. Banned for enjoy spotting the hidden Ɓ gure. Believed to sweet potatoes, which they sell in newspaper over 30 years under Franco, the correfoc came have Ɓ rst been used sometime during the 17th cones to passers-by.| back with a bang in 1979. Now attended by

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com CATALAN

By Abby Narishkin

thousands every Mercè, this celebration Ɓ lls the now represents Catalans’ identity the streets with Ɓ re and festivity. If you’re and unity, and the raising of their hands during EASTER WEEK planning on joining in, make sure you wear the dance is a proclamation of pride. The head-to-toe protective gear to avoid burns. But ofƁ cial sardana shoes are espardenyes, if you do come prepared, the energy is espadrille-like footwear with long ribbons that infectious, and before you know it you’re are wound round the legs. The best time to see While Catalonia is not as overtly religious dancing with devils and playing with Ɓ re.| the dance is on Saturday evenings or Sundays as regions such as Andalusia, which at lunchtime, when many groups form circles means you’re unlikely to see processions outside Barcelona Cathedral.| of Catholic iconography and statues in the L’HOME DELS NASSOS streets here, it does have its own On December 31, children here go on a search traditions for Setmana Santa. Among for one of Catalonia’s most famous characters, ELS CASTELLS church attendees, Palm Sunday (March L’home dels nassos. Parents tell their children Probably the most iconic of all the quirky 20) is a key day and you may well see that the ‘The man with the noses’ has as many Catalan traditions are castells, or ‘human worshippers, especially children, carrying noses as there are days in the year, leaving towers’. First performed in 1712, the tradition elaborately fashioned palm leaves. Head children to search for a Ɓ gure with 365 noses. has become a staple of Catalan festivals. The to Rambla Catalunya during that weekend However, as he only ever goes out on the last teams that take part in creating the towers are and you’ll Ɓ nd stalls selling them, along day of the year, L’home dels nassos only has called colles castellers. For a tower to be with decorative pieces to add. However, it’s one nose left by the time the children spot him. successfully completed, a single child must Easter Monday that’s most eagerly He’s represented as a capgròs (a big head), and climb to the top, raise one arm and hold up four awaited by many Catalans, and, as is often comes to present the key to the New Year to Ɓ ngers, said to represent the four red stripes of the case here, it’s all down to an edible local authorities.| the Catalan Ƃ ag. The impressive amount of goodie. The Mona de Pasqua (‘Easter teamwork extends to the pinya – the crowd of cake’) is a sweet treat usually gifted by people on the ground acting as a base as well godparents to their godchildren. While SARDANA as a safety net in case the tower collapses. once it was a ring cake baked with whole The sardana dance is a traditional symbol of Every stage is more precarious than the last as eggs in it, with one egg for each year of the Catalonia’s unity and pride. Dancers join hands the strain on the lower castellers becomes child’s age, nowadays the mona tends to in a circle and raise their arms as they make greater with every passing minute. Working be a carefully created (and pretty pricey) precise steps in time to the music. As a small under the motto ‘Força, equilibri, valor i ’, chocolate construction featuring Disney brass band plays, the circle often becomes the castellers represent the strength, balance, and other popular characters. larger and larger, as more participants join in courage and common sense ingrained into the with the dance. Banned during Franco’s regime, people of Catalonia.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 29 Shopping & Style

1. CARLOTAOMS is the work of Elisabet Carlota (L) and Elisenda Oms (R)

Up-and-comers Designers Xavi Grados, Elisabet Carlota, ElisendaVELOCIUTAT Oms and Pau Esteve are all making a name for themselves. By Eugènia Sendra MARIA DIAS one-sized pieces that are left baggy 23 looks that he presented at 080, Dynamic. That’s the ideal adjective THE NORDIC ANGLE so each client can style them looks that paid homage to classics to describe the Catalan fashion It’s late January. Pau Esteve is according to their own taste. such as tails and pleated trousers. industry, with a constant stream of putting the Ɓnishing touches to his Esteve says he began ‘from a Buy Esteve’s creations at Ozz work from both established newest collection in a workshop in desire to create things he couldn’t Barcelona, Banys Vells, 10 (Born) designers and young creatives who the Raval neighbourhod. He shares Ɓnd for men: sequins, sheer are still Ɓnding their path, their style it with the jewellery makers Amalia clothes, glittery embellishments – WITH NO OBVIOUS GENDER and their strengths. Among this Vermell – they gave him a few of a mix that, if its use is measured, Appearing at 080 for the Ɓrst time latter group are Xavi Grados, their pieces to use for his 080 works for men who want to be in July 2015, and winning the Elisabet Carlota and Elisenda Oms debut. Esteve created the Berlín coquettish’, and that his return to National Emerging Designer award (Carlotaoms), and Pau Esteve, who label in 2013 and set about Barcelona (he lived in for for the Ɓrst time, motivated Elisabet were all up for the National consolidating it with appearances two years) coincided with a desire Carlota and Elisenda Oms to set off Emerging Designer award at the at markets and alternative fashion to widen his production. He on a joint adventure that they could 2016 autumn/winter edition of shows, through which he won a previously worked on a small scale, coordinate with their existing solo 080 Barcelona Fashion, the city’s loyal client base in Scandinavia. His responding to demand and careers. They showed their debut leading fashion event, staged at project, in line with that of Korean avoiding the build-up of stock. A collection – the Ɓnal project from the start of February. Ultimately, the Juun.J and the collections of Stella seamstress in the their studies at the Felicidad Dulce Carlotaoms duo triumphed. McCartney, are founded on basic, town of Olot helped him Ɓnish the school – at fashion events in Lisbon

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] @eugeniasendra

3. PAU ESTEVE (L) has returned to Barcelona from Berlin to increase his output MARIA DIAS

2. XAVI GRADOS (R) is from Igualada, a Catalan town with a long textile me, and what I can offer, is design, history is the pattern,’ they say. KNITTING IN THE GENES quality and tradition,’ he says. They create designs that Xavi Grados is from the Catalan He works at Punto Blanco – an and Brighton, while their second are flattering, multipurpose town of Igualada, and he knows the Igualada underwear company that collection, entitled Itinerant, was and functional. textile industry Ɓrst-hand, as it’s began operations back in 1948 – taken to last year’s Who’s Next fair For winter 2016, they were long been a mainstay of the local and makes time to study the in before 080 in February. inspired by Matt Wisniewski’s economy. In 2014, he showed his company’s production processes: Carlotaoms doesn’t have a huge introspective collages, and work at Modafad (the 080 event for the search for yarns (which come studio-workshop, but the duo do transferred a series of Alpine young designers) and later took from France, Italy and Germany), the have a clear philosophy – they details to a very urban collection part in the markets of 080 and dye (‘I avoid Pantone, I look for support local suppliers and of outerwear, knitted jumpers and Rec, the latter of which is held each conceptual colours’), and use of collaborate with workshops in the sweatshirts, all embellished with year in his home town. When vertical ladder drop-stitch, a nearby town of Mataró and the Baix the colour blue, and with showy Grados saw the success that his technique he employs to give his Llobregat area. They want their prints that they designed creations were having, he set up his pieces space. He went to 080 production to stay close. On a themselves as standout features. label, featuring ergonomic, abstract with designs for men and a new conceptual level, Carlota and Oms Showroom: Carolines, 13 designs that look to minimalist women’s line, ‘masculine creations go for collections that are (Gràcia). Make a prior architecture and are made using adapted to the female body’, as he essentially unisex. ‘Design doesn’t appointment, with a message to local textiles, such as leather and describes it. have a gender; what has a gender 618 199 349 or 626 257 262. knitted material. ‘What identiƁes www.xavigrados.com

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 31 Shopping & Style Your inspiration Everything for Ruben Ortiz took us on a journey to Ɓ nd amazing architecture and your dog is now doing the same with photography. By Eugènia Sendra SHOP OF THE MONTH

Photographer Ruben Ortiz and interior designer Katty Schiebeck used to dream about the houses where they’d love to live. They started a blog on the subject (Somewhere I Would Like to Live) and later an Instagram account, and the pair’s curatorial adventure expanded into a global platform followed by lovers of architecture and interior design. The blog AN INTERIOR took off, along with Villa Necchi Campiglio, an Schiebeck and Ortiz, edifice from the ’30s by A while back, Leila Ciriano was who makes a living Piero Portaluppi. The Milan looking for elegant outerwear for photographing hotels. house was the setting for her dog, as well as a chic bag to His images are elegant the 2009 film I Am Love. carry her pet around, but couldn’t and natural, along the Ɓ nd anything that matched her lines of those taken by own style. So Ciriano started François Halard and designing a line of clothes for Massimo Listri, whose canines. As well as outƁ ts and work he admires. With the bags, which are inspired by the big idea of converting inaccessible luxury fashion labels, she’s also but inspiring images into icons, made accessories that are and with a nostalgia for posters, essential for pets’ everyday lives – Ortiz created Be Paper, a place bowls, beds, blankets and leads, where the worlds of decoration all given a sophisticated touch and paper meet. Photos have an and all produced in Spain. Thus aesthetic component, he says, Cyriano was born, an online but what’s important is that OBJECTS OF DESIRE project that’s now moving to the this is transferred somewhere, When it comes to buying design next level with a showroom and to a cabin in the middle of a items, Ortiz goes for local talent. shop close to Turó Park in Sant forest, say, or to one of the One of his most recent acquisitions Gervasi, one of Barcelona’s more constructions from Indian was ‘Dipping Light’, a lamp by Jodi dog-friendly neighbourhoods. Ɓ rm Studio Mumbai. Canudas. The shop is a space full of clean lines and wooden finishes, and, of bepaper.eu course, it actively welcomes dogs. You’ll find the exclusive collection of rucksacks, travel bags and GET THE LOOK! leather cases (and removable inner linings) with which Cyriano hopes to seduce animal owners A CLASSIC who are also fashion-lovers. Look at his feet – shoes that are pure And look out for the current artisanship. They’re made in Sóller, bestsellers: the ceramic bowls and in . www.bencalcat.es the beds made with a faux leather resistent to bites and scratches AOO LOVE OF THE POSTER that’s also used in the naval He’s a huge fan of this emporium Be Paper has in-house industry. –E.S. dedicated to design and managed photographers such as Salva López, by Marc Morro. AOO, Sèneca, 9 Anne Roig, Coke Bartina and CYRIANO

MARIA DIAS Daniel Riera, but one of Ortiz’s fave Bori i Fontestà, 11 (Sant images is by Lena C.Emery. Gervasi). www.cyriano.com

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Shopping & Style Casa Atlântica (Llibertat, 7) sells ceramics, Time for a drink including mugs, from Portugal Designers and artisans can transform simple drinking vessels into and Galicia decorative and unique pieces for the home. By Eugènia Sendra

GO TO THE SOURCE BRAZILIAN WAYS BOTANY CLASS See how it’s done at the Nona Bruna workshop. €29. In Brazil, they drink beer from the ‘Americano’ cups Lisbel Gavara brings wild plants to accompany Diputació, 387 (email first to [email protected]) of Nadir Figueiredo. €3.15. Variopinte, Comerç, 15 teatime. €24. Espai Joliu, Badajoz, 95

WOODLAND CREATURES FINNISH FLOWERS Wild & Wolf design pieces that are useful and Marimekko’s prints take us back to 1951. €15. beautiful. €10. Grey Street, Peu de la Creu, 25 Nordicthink, Consell de Cent, 412 La tria de Carlos Hey, de la botiga Quin Cafè

WHALE WATCHING GALICIAN PORCELAIN WILD AND FREE Tails spring from the mugs of geologist–ceramicist Cobalt blue goes geometrical with historic brand This mug by The Mochi and The Bear is ideal for Annick Galimont. €35. Oslo, Torrent de l’Olla, 164 Sargadelos. €18.50. Nuovum, Pintor Fortuny, 30 sea lovers. €20. Caroline Blue, Doctor Dou, 11 La tria de Carlos Hey, de la botiga Quin Cafè

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 33 Things to Do The neighbourhood that’s up in the clouds Maria Junyent spends a morning getting lost among the steep slopes and spectacular views of the Carmel district

Up in Plaça de la Pastrana, where corner, life spills out onto C/ del stools, consider whether to one of the exits from the Carmel Llobregós, Carmel’s main have a second coffee or the first metro station emerges, children shopping street, which is full of beer of the day. Those who opt play in an old-fashioned cafés, bars and, yes, shops. for a cerveza accompany it with playground whose sandy surface Crowds surge in and out of the right-angled slices of potato has yet to be replaced by less Carmel market (C/ del omelette, the real deal. Out organic but supposedly safer Llobregós, 149): if the local on the street, the hubbub rubber. Old men in berets mercat is an indicator of a continues unabated. complain about their pensions neighbourhood’s vitality, the area while grandmas haul shopping is in fine fettle. At Olga’s fish and Out of the city and into trolleys – with extra-large wheels seafood stall, a dozen customers the greenery to cope with the district’s extreme point out what they want while the Like most streets in the Carmel gradients – heading for the neighbourhood, C/ del Llobregós market. On the way they pass C/ wends its way up the mountain. de Cifuentes and the Bodeguilla Not far from the market, I come del Carmel (C/ de Cifuentes, 4), a across the first of the outdoor tiny, dark and damp grotto of a escalators that the city council wine cellar, stacked from floor to began installing in the district celling with wooden barrels, and several years ago to improve full of the lingering scent of spilt accessibility, especially for ‘Últimas wine and spirits. The bodega is older residents. I reach C/ de tardes con packed with locals making their la Murtra, site of the El Teresa’ selection from the shelves or Carmel–Juan Marsé Library Lumen. 512pp. queuing to fill up one-litre bottles (Murtra, 135-145). It’s named €20.90 with wine from the barrels. Three after the Barcelona writer who glass decanters on the counter turned the streets of the district display the Holy Trinity: crema into a literary landscape, d’orujo (orujo is a pomace brandy populated by characters like ‘El from the north of Spain), orujo with Pijoaparte’, the streetwise herbs, and a coffee liqueur. The antihero of his 1969 novel busiest tap is the vermouth one, The bodega is Últimas tardes con Teresa (Last where you can fill up your own Evenings with Teresa). With bottle for just €3.25 a litre. packed with multiple storeys clinging to the While some Carmelites are locals making slope, the library boasts a vast keeping their cellars stocked, a sunny terrace as well as a café, few metres away others are their selection making it an ideal place to sit with having the finishing touches put from the shelves a book in one hand and a cake in to their coiffures at a salon that the other. welcomes clients with a poster of Behind the library, a group of Nick Carter, the blond one from proprietress lops off the tail of a disorientated tourists waits for Backstreet Boys, and prices that hake with a single deft cleaver the unmanned funicular-lift hark back to the days when he stroke, as she suggests a recipe whose cabin trundles 30 metres was a global teen icon: €5 for to the man who’ll be taking it up the slope to C/ del Santuari. men, women’s cuts from €8, and home. In another part of the On a clear day the ride offers a €4 for kids. A complete bargain. market I stumble upon Bar Virigo, panoramic view in motion, Outside again and around the where the clientele, perched on stretching back down over the

34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol

EATING OUT IN CARMEL

LAS DELICIAS The terrace at Las Delicias is a miracle north side of the city as far as in itself. It twists and turns all over the sea, which both visitors and the place because, just like the rest of the locals who see it every day Carmel, it’s on a slope. But it hardly contemplate in thoughtful matters when you try their delicious silence. At the top, steps half- tapas. Mühlberg, 1 hidden among nettles and dandelions lead to the muntanya pelada – the ‘bare mountain’, an aptly named hilltop viewpoint. From here, only a five-minute climb from the top of the lift, the whole of Barcelona lies at your feet. On one side, Tibidabo, on the other, the sea: below you, Park Güell and Parc de Guinardó. You can find out more about Carmel thanks to the CCCB, which offers a range of walking EL JARDÍ DE L’ÀPAT tours, designed to spark debate With more than ten set menus on offer, about the present, past and this restaurant situated close to the future of the city. The latest Parc del Carmel is a great place to explores Carmel and Nou Barris, try Catalan and Mediterranean dishes two districts that began while enjoying memorable city views. as immigrant workers’ Albert Llanas, 2 settlements during the 1960s and 1970s, and were gradually assimilated into the city, a process that has involved constant struggles against poverty, marginalisation and the inhospitable terrain itself.

Get to Carmel either by metro (L5), the No 24 bus (which runs from Av. Paral·lel to Carmel via Passeig de Gràcia) or, for a roller- coaster experience, the AMB No QUIMET D’HORTA 87 bus (whose route runs from Actually just beyond the district border Travessera de Gràcia to Pg. that divides Carmel and neighbour Maragall). For information about Horta, this bar is renowned for its the next CCCB walking tour of sandwiches. And almost as much for its the area, and other available terrace overlooking a charming square.

PHOTOS: MARIA DIAS PHOTOS: routes, visit www.cccb.org. Plaça d’Eivissa, 10

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de Santa Maria del Pi Evening visits to the 14th-century Visit the 14th-century Basilica of Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi. Tours Day by day Santa Maria del Pi and its belltower. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Wed-Fri (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Mon-Sat 9pm. Sat 9.30pm. €19 (general). Casa Batlló. Gaudí Barcelona Information and sales: 10am-6pm; Sun 4pm-7pm. €4. €16 (in advance). More info and Antoni Gaudí’s most poetic and Tourist Information Points and Reduced: €3. tickets: www.adsentiabarcelona. creative building in the city. tickets.visitbarcelona.com com or tickets.visitbarcelona.com. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). 9am-9pm (last FREE This activity is free Wednesday 2 entry 8pm). Cultural visit + video Thursday 3 guide: €22.50. Reduced: €19.50. * The dates of league matches Sport More info and tickets: www. may be moved forward or back Family casabatllo.cat and tickets. one day, depending on TV Formula One Test Days visitbarcelona.com. broadcast schedules See Tue 1. Circuit de Barcelona- Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Catalunya (Camí Mas Moreneta, See Tue 1. (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Montmeló). Train (RENFE): Montmeló. Estació (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). Saturday 5 Tuesday 1 Open air Family Football Traditions Barcelona Urban Forest| Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona * League fixture. RCD FREE Sant Medir in Gràcia Zip wires, trampolines and This 5,000m2-space includes a Espanyol – Real Betis Popular event in the Gràcia bungees for high-adrenaline fun. large interactive model city inspired Espanyol face Seville team. neighbourhood, with a parade of (Pl. del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Maresme/ by Barcelona and small ride-on train. Date & time TBC. Estadi Cornellà–El Ƃoats and carriages and tonnes of Fòrum (L4). Weekends and public (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Estació Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. sweets thrown to the crowds. hols (including Easter week, Mar 21- (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). T. 93 423 Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Various streets in Gràcia. M: Fontana 28) 10am-3pm, 4pm-7pm. €8-€19 78 55. 10am-8pm. €11.20. Cornellà. www.rcdespanyol.com. (L3). 10am-8pm. More info: (depends on circuit and age). Reduced: €7.84. culturapopular.bcn.cat/en. Traditions Family Sport Tours FREE Calçotada in the Sagrada Babies at the CCCB Formula One Test Days Família neighbourhood Liceu opera house Theatre and music for under-3s, A chance to check out the form of Try one of Catalonia’s unique Discover Barcelona’s glorious based on Joan Miró painting. the top GP stables at Catalonia’s gastronomic specialities, the opera house, carefully restored (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat Formula One track. calçot, a large spring onion eaten after a devastating Ɓre in 1994. (L1,L2) & Catalunya (L1,L3; FGC). Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya grilled and dipped in special sauce. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Mar 5, 6, 13, 19, 20. 5pm. (Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Human towers also perform. Mon-Fri 9.30am & 10.30am. €16. Train (RENFE): Montmeló. Until Mar (Plaça de la Sagrada Família). 4. 9am-1pm, 2pm-6pm. From €15. M: Sagrada Família (L2, L5). 11am. Secret Basilica del Pi Gastro festival More info: www.circuitcat.com More info: cccc.cat. See Wed 2. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). $CTEGNQPC$GGT(GUVKXCN| See Fri 4. Museu Marítim (Av. de les Tours Tours Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Friday 4 Torre Gaudí| Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Tours of Gaudí’s modernista Guided tours to the top of this Sport Traditions castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. historic church for great city views. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). Formula One Test Days FREE Sardanes (FGC). Visit with audio guide: Tue- M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri noon to See Tue 1. Circuit de Barcelona- Catalonia’s national dance Sun 10am-3pm. €9. Reduced: 5.15pm. Sat, Sun, public hols 11am Catalunya (Camí Mas Moreneta, performed in front of the cathedral. €7.20. Guided tour: Sat noon to 7pm. Tours various times and Montmeló). Train (RENFE): Montmeló. (Pla de la Seu). M: Jaume I (L4). Sat (Spanish); Sat, Sun 11am (English). languages.€10. Reduced: €8. 6pm; Sun 11.15am. €16. €12.80 (reduced). Booking: www.riostabarcelona.com and tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Gastro festival Let’s set sail on the Santa Tours Eulàlia Palau de la Música Barcelona Beer Festival | Take a trip on a beautifully restored Tour this emblematic building of BCN’s Ɓfth beer festival, with 300 Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins three-masted schooner. Catalan modernisme. craft brews, food and live music. Spectacular night-time event that Museu Maritim (Av. de les (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Museu Marítim (Av. de les Drassanes, includes rooftop video mapping, Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Mar 4-5 screenings and a glass of cava. Until Mar 29: Tue-Sun, public hols 10am-3.30pm. €18. Reduced: €11. 11am-11pm; Mar 6 11am-9pm. €7 (Provença, 261-265, entrance on 10am-5.30pm; Sat 2pm-5.30pm. (includes guide, glass and two Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal (L3, From Moll de la Fusta. Secret Basilica del Pi tokens). barcelonabeerfestival.com L5), FGC: Provença. 9pm-10pm

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Things to Do

VKEMGVQHƁEGQRGPUCVRO a Reduced: €17. Tours

FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Sunday 6 Cemetery Explore one of Barcelona’s Festivals – Traditions historical cemeteries. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). FREE Sant Medir in La Bordeta| 1st Sun 10.30am (Catalan) & Sweet-throwing procession with 12.30pm (Spanish). 3rd Sun riders and horse-drawn carriages. 10.30am (Spanish) & 12.30pm Various streets. M: Espanya (L1, L3; (Catalan). FGC). culturapopular.bcn.cat/en FREE CCCB rooftop terrace FREE Human towers + calçots See Barcelona from the top of in Poble-sec this city centre building. Raise your eyes to watch CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: castellers and eat grilled onions. Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya (Pl. del Sortidor). M: Poble Sec (L3), (L1,L3; FGC). 11am-8pm. Paral·lel (L2, L3). Noon. cccc.cat Monday 7 Open air Family 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| Enjoy fun activities for all ages at Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Barcelona’s historic theme park. See Tue 1. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC: Estació (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). Av.Tibidabo + Tramvia Blau or bus 196. Mar-Apr: Sat, Sun noon-7pm. Mar 23-24, 28 noon-8pm. Mar Tours 25-27 10am-9pm. €28.50 (under- 120cm, €10.50). Palau de la Música See Wed 2. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Family Urquinaona (L1, L4).

The Beatles for babies The Beatles’ best-loved tunes in a Tuesday 8 concert especially designed for babies. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya Tours (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Until Mar 13. Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi Sun time TBC. €12. Reduced: €6. See Tue 1. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu More info: www.tnc.cat. (L3).

Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Gastro festival See Wed 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Barcelona Beer Festival See Fri 4. Museu Marítim (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Wednesday 9 Tours Football Secret Basilica del Pi * League fixture. RCD See Wed 2. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu Espanyol – Rayo Vallecano (L3). Espanyol take on Madrid team. Date & time TBC. Estadi Cornellà - Santa Maria del Mar rooftop El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. See Wed 2. Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Cornellà. www.rcdespanyol.com. Jaume I (L4).

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FREE Guided tour of Fossar de la Thursday 10 Open air Football Pedrera The Fossar de la Pedrera in Family 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| * League fixture. FC Barcelona Montjuïc Cemetery is a memorial See Sun 6. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). – Getafe space for those killed during the Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor See below. (Aristides Spanish Civil War. Cementiri de See Tue 1. (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, Estació (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). blau or bus 196. 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Traditions 11am (Catalan or Spanish). Tours Traditions FREE Human towers at the Monday 14 Casa Batlló. Gaudí Barcelona FREE Sardanes| Sagrada Família| See Fri 4. See Sat 5. (Pla de la Seu). M: Jaume Marking the Ɓrst day of the human- Family (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). I (L4). 6pm. tower building season. M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). (C/ de Santa Carolina). M: Sagrada Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Família (L2, L5). Noon. cccc.cat See Tue 1. Tours (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Estació Friday 11 FREE Triacord Day in (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Barcelona Tours See Sun 5. (Provença, 261-265, Human towers with three groups entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: from BCN and beyond. Tours Torre Bellesguard Gaudí| Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. (C/ Sant Jordi). Noon. cccc.cat See Tue 1. Torre Bellesguard Gaudí| (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo FREE Santa Madrona in Poble See Tue 1. (FGC). Sunday 13 Sec (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Human towers from Sabadell, Sant (FGC). Liceu opera house Sport Cugat and Poble Sec. (Pl. de Santa See Thu 3. Madrona). Noon. www.cccc.cat (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Zurich Marató de Barcelona 2016 Tuesday 15 15,000 runners are expected to run the marathon through the city Tours Tours Saturday 12 centre. Starts: Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. M: Espanya (L1,L3; FGC). FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi Family 8.30am. zurichmaratobarcelona.es Cemetery See Tue 1. Visit Barcelona’s hillside (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Electric stories graveyard, which is as much an art Hands-on kids’ show with Family museum as a Ɓnal resting-place. Let’s set sail on the Santa electronic instruments and visual Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Eulàlia effects. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). The Beatles for babies Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya See Tue 1. M: Glòries & Marina (L1), See Sun 6. (L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun Maritime Museum (Av. de les Monumental (L2). Mar 12 noon, TNC (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries & 11am (Catalan) and 11.15am Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes 5.30pm; Mar 13 11am, 12.30pm. Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). (Spanish). (L3).

IN TOWN FOR THE MARATHON? Enjoy these other events taking place that weekend

SAILING TRIP TOT FESTIVAL 2016 HUMAN TOWERS FC BARCELONA VS. GETAFE The Santa Eulàlia is a restored Family-friendly puppet festival returns The Barcelona castellers group Although the actual day and time are to three-masted schooner owned by the with various shows for all ages. Poble launches its 2016 season with this be confirmed, at some point during the Maritime Museum. Head out to sea Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, free, open-air display of their amazing weekend Barça will take on this Madrid for a memorable Med voyage. Info and 13). Mar 12-13, all day. Included in talents. Mar 12. Plaça de Valentí side. Take your chance to see the players tickets: [email protected]. entry fee (€13; reduced: €8). Almirall (Clot). Noon. cccc.cat in action. www.fcbarcelona.cat

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Let’s set sail on the Santa sailing ships, activities, Wednesday 16 Eulàlia demonstrations and more. Family cinema See Tue 1. Maritime Museum (Av. Museu Marítim (Av. de les Tours de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes Chicken Run Drassanes (L3). (L3). Mar 18-20. More info: mmb. Aardman Animation’s stop-motion Secret Basilica del Pi cat. classic. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc See Wed 2. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L3). Friday 18 (L1, L3; FGC). Mar 19, 26. Noon. €4. Traditions Open air For children six and over. Football FREE Palm Sunday Season opening at Palm fronds to carry in the Sport Champions League. FC PortAventura traditional Easter procession. Barcelona – Arsenal An hour south of Barcelona, this (). M: Passeig V de V Endurance Series Things are hotting up in the theme park has six zones of de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). Mar 18-20. Over 100 classic and endurance European contest. 8.45pm. attractions, parades, eateries and vehicles in an intense programme. For more info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. shops. (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya (Camí Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Km. 2. Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train Saturday 19 Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Train M: Les Corts (L3). (Renfe): Port Aventura. T. 902 20 (RENFE): Montmeló. Mar 19-20. 22 20. Tickets: tickets. Family www.circuitcat.com visitbarcelona.com or www. Thursday 17 portaventura.es. Explore – Poison! FIS Snowboard Cross World Cup Discover some of the most Boardercross champions race over Tours poisonous animals on the planet. jumps, drops and other obstacles. City CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) Estació d’esqui de Baqueira/Beret Secret Basilica del Pi M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Mar 19-28. (Pla de Beret, s/n. Baqueira, Lleida). See Wed 2. FREE Escala Barcelona | 10am-8pm. More info: http:// 12.45pm. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Festival of seafaring history, with agenda.obrasocial.lacaixa.es. +PHQYYYƁUUMKEQO

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See Fri 18. (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Starts: Port Ginesta-Barcelona (Av. Sunday 20 Km. 2. Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train de les Botigues, 1. Sitges). 10am. Open air (Renfe): Port Aventura. More info: larutadelasal.com. Open air Season opening at PortAventura Barcelona Urban Forest| Tours Friday 25 See Fri 18. (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. See Sat 5. (Pl. del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Km. 2. Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train Maresme/Fòrum (L4). Torre Bellesguard Gaudí Open air (Renfe): Port Aventura. See Tue 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| Sport See Sun 6. Traditions (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del FIS Snowboard Cross World Cup Tuesday 22 TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC: ‘Mona de Pasqua’ See Sat 19. Estació d’esqui de Av.Tibidabo + tramvia blau or bus Spectacular hand-made chocolate Baqueira/Beret (Pla de Beret, s/n. Family 196. creations for lucky kids at Easter. Baqueira, Lleida). Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Patisseries across the city. See Tue 1. (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Estació Tours Family (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). Tuesday 29 Casa Batlló. Gaudí Barcelona Babies at the CCCB See Fri 4. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). Family See Sat 5. (Montalegre, 5). M: Open air M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Universitat (L1,L2) & Catalunya Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona (L1,L3; FGC). Barcelona Urban Forest| See Tue 1. See Sat 5. (Pl. del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Saturday 26 (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Estació Explore – Verí! Maresme/Fòrum (L4 (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). See Sat 19. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Traditions Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Wednesday 23 FREE Sardanes| Tours See Sat 5. (Pla de la Seu). M: Jaume Football Open air I (L4). 6pm Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi See Tue 1. * League fixture. RCD Season opening at (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Espanyol – Athletic Club PortAventura Tours Another Spanish league match for See Fri 18. (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Barcelona’s other team. Date and Km. 2. Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train Gaudí’s Pedrera. Wednesday 30 time TBC. www.rcdespanyol.com. (Renfe): Port Aventura. The Origins Estadi Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Baix See Sat 5. (Provença, 261-265, Tours Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà. See Sun 6. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). M: Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Torre Bellesguard Gaudí Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor See Tue 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + Tibidabo (FGC). Tours tramvia blau or bus 196. Sunday 27 Santa Maria del Mar rooftop FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Cycling See Wed 2. Cemetery Thursday 24 (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume See Sun 6. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Tour of Catalonia I (L4). Llacuna (L4). Family festival Cyclists cross the Ɓnish line after the seventh and Ɓnal stage of the From flower to flower tour. Av. Maria Cristina. M: Espanya Thursday 31 Traditions Welcome spring with BCN’s Ɓrst (L1, L3; FGC). From 1pm (route and Ƃowers and garden festival. time TBC). voltacatalunya.com Tours FREE Human towers in Sants (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). Celebrate Sant Medir with a display M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Mar Secret Basilica del Pi of human towers. 24-28. All day. Included in ticket Tours See Wed 2. (Pl. de Raspall). Noon. www.cccc.cat price (€13; reduced: €8). (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Cemetery Monday 21 Sailing See Sun 13. Cementiri de Montjuïc Family (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). Open air Ruta de la Sal. Barcelona M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Mediterranean Regatta See Tue 1. Season opening at A Ƃotilla of yachts set out on a 140 (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants Estació PortAventura mile regatta, from BCN to Ibiza. Monday 28 (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3).

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Architecture €7.50 (reduced). This UNESCO €11.20 (reduced). Under-16s free. 9am-4am. €12. €7 (reduced). World Heritage Site is inside First Sunday of the month there Built for the 1929 Barcelona Basílica de la Sagrada Colònia Güell, a planned textile are no tours but free entry to enjoy Expo, this open-air museum has Família factory and residential area 20 cultural activities. replicas of streets, squares and (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada minutes from Barcelona. Tour the buildings and grounds of buildings from across Spain. Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. one of the world’s largest Art You’ll also Ɓnd shops selling Mar 1-31 9am-7pm. Guided tour: Gran Teatre del Liceu Nouveau monuments, restored local crafts, the Fran Daurel €24. Tour with audio guide: €22. (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu and opened to the public in 2014. contemporary art museum, Panoramic visit (audio guide and (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided family activities and live music. towers): €29. Barcelona’s most tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. Torre Bellesguard famous landmark, begun by €16. 25-minute tour: Daily (Bellesguard, 6-9). FGC: Av. Tibidabo Amusement Park Antoni Gaudí in 1891 and (various times and languages). Tibidabo. T. 93 250 40 93. Tue- (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus unƁnished to this day. €6. www.liceubarcelona.cat Sun 10am-3pm. Last entry: Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça Visit one of the world’s great 2.30pm. Closed Mon. Panoramic Catalunya. FGC: Av. Tibidabo + Basílica de opera houses, with its tour (audio guide to exterior, Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + Santa Maria del Mar impressive concert hall and remains of Martin the Humane’s Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). exclusive private rooms. palace, audiovisual centre): €9. 79 42. Weekends noon-7pm; Mar M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. €7 (reduced). Full guided tour in 23-24,28 noon-8pm; Mar 25-27 Mon-Sat 9am-1pm, 5pm-8.30pm; La Pedrera English (tower exterior and 10am-9pm. Sky Walk: €12.70. Sun and public holidays 10am- (Provença, 261–265). interior, roof terrace): €16. Children under 120cm: €7.80. 2pm, 5pm-8pm. Wheelchair M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 €12.80 (reduced). Discover the Amusement park: €28.50. access. Known as the ‘cathedral 202 138. Pedrera by Day modernista castle that Antoni Children under 120cm: €10.30. of the Ribera’, this church is one (includes audio guide): 9am- Gaudí built at the foot of Inaugurated in 1899, Tibidabo of the most perfect examples of 8pm. Last entry: 7.30pm. Tibidado mountain. features both classic rides and . €20.50. €16.50 (reduced). new attractions as well as Gaudi’s Pedrera. The Origins Leisure amazing views over the city. Basílica de (evening tour): 9pm-10pm. €34. Santa Maria del Pi €17 (reduced). Many Barcelona Aire de Barcelona, PortAventura (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) & residents regard this as Gaudí’s Arab Baths (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. true masterpiece. The roof (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port 10am-6pm. €4. €3 (reduced). terrace represents modernista Barceloneta, Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. New Guided tour (including up to bell architechture at its Ɓnest – the 5WP6JWƁTUVGPVT[ season starts Mar 18. Tickets: tower): Sat noon, 1.30pm, 5pm, evening tour includes a rooftop 10am; last entry between 10pm tickets.visitbarcelona.com or 6.30pm; Sun noon, 1.30pm, videomapping. and midnight; Fri, Sat: last entry www.portaventura.es. 5pm (book in advance). €10. €8 between midnight and 2am. An hour south of Barcelona, (reduced). La Basílica del Pi Palau Güell These gorgeous Arab baths this theme park has six zones Secreta (night-time tour): Thu, Fri (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: revive the ancient tradition of of attractions, parades, 9pm (9.20pm English); Sat Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 472 bathing as a form of relaxation. eateries and shops. 9.30pm (9.50pm English). €19. 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm. One of Barcelona’s grandest Last entry: 4.30pm. Closed Mon Barcelona Urban Forest Scòpic Miniatur Barcelona Gothic churches, with great (except public hols). €12. €9 (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El (Tarragona, 177). M: Sants views from its bell tower. (reduced). Built by Gaudí in the Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 Estacío (L3, L5), Tarragona (L3). late 19th century, this palace 34 26. Sat, Sun, public holidays T. 93 423 78 55. 10am-8pm. Casa Batlló belonged to his principal patron. & Mar 21-28 10am-3pm, 4pm- €11.20. €7.84 (reduced). Entry (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de 7pm. €11-€27 (depending on includes ride on Tren Tripulat, an Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 Palau de la Música age and circuit). Zip lines, authentic to-scale train. 06. 9am-9pm. Last entry: 8pm. Catalana trampolines and bungee A miniature universe awaits at Tour and video guide: €22.50. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: jumping for high-adrenaline fun. this 5,000m2 space, which €19.50 (reduced). The sensuality Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 72 includes a large interactive and harmony of its interior, 00. 10am-3.30pm. Various Gaudí Experience model city inspired by Barcelona combined with Gaudí’s use of languages. €18. €11 (reduced). (Larrard, 41). M: Vallcarca, and a miniature ride-on train. colours, shapes and light, make Under-10s free. Step inside one Lesseps (L3). T. 93 285 44 40. this a must-see for admirers of of the most beautiful modernista 10.30am-5pm. €9. €7.50 the architect’s work. buildings in the city, today a (reduced). A fascinating (, s/n). M: UNESCO World Heritage Site. interactive journey that uses 4-D (L1) & Ciutadella/ Gaudí at Colònia technology to take you inside Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 Güell Sant Pau, Art Nouveau Site Gaudí’s universe. 45. Until Mar 18 10am-5.30pm. (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). From Mar 19 10am-7pm. de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) M: Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. €19.90. Children (ages 3-12): & FGC: Colònia Güell (S4, S8, Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm; Sun, (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). €11.95. Open for over 100 S33). T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri public hols 10am-2.30pm. Self- M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 508 63 years, this is one of the city’s 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun, public hols guided tour: €10. €7 (reduced). 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue-Thu, Sun best-loved attractions, home to 10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide). Guided tour (various times): €16. 9am-midnight; Fri 9am-3am; Sat more than 2,000 animals.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 41 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] The Arts @eugeniasendra Have a good trip, architects Can Framis unear ths a unique collection of ar tists’ drawings from the 1960s, par t of the Association of Architects of Catalonia’s archive. By Eugènia Sendra

Nowadays there are any number Pellicer, the board of the of crowdfunding websites that Association of Architects of offer creative types a means to Catalonia saw the raise money for their next importance of project. But they were predated This piece preserving the by a unique initiative that was was Jean integrity of an organised in 1960 by the 85th Cocteau’s exceptional graduating class of architects contribution to collection, and at the Barcelona School of the project keeping it in Architecture, which included Barcelona – so they Vicente Saavedra and the late acquired it as a single lot. Raimon Torres, both of whom were to become eminent names A priceless collection in the field. Now a selection of the drawings To fund their end-of- year trip, are on show at Can Framis, in an the students sent more than exhibition that’s been organised 200 letter-headed sheets of by Vicente Saavedra himself. Carson art paper to some of the ‘What stands out is that it’s a most eminent artists of the day, compendium of everything in Spain and abroad, painters were doing at the time; there’s lots of abstract work – tachism, lyrical and geometrical abstraction,’ says curator Victoria It’s a Combalia, who has picked the hundred works on display based compendium both on the quality of the work and of everything the prominence of the artists. For Combalia, the show highlights the painters were value of the archive, the doing at the time philanthropy of the artists, and the enlightened attitude of the encouraged by their mentor, governing board of the the art critic Alexandre Cirici- Association of Architects. ‘I’m Pellicer. The response was sure that it was Antoni Moragas unexpected. An illustrious and Solà-Morales who convinced roll call of painters, sculptors the others that the collection and architects, including Otto could not be broken up: they paid Dix, Lucio Fontana, Max Bill, 500,000 pesetas for it, the full Karel Appel, Victor Vasarely, cost of the trip.’ And what a trip it Joan Miró, Antoni Tàpies, was – a 35-day tour that included Antonio Saura, Alexander visits to Paris and Rotterdam, and Calder, Giacomo Manzù, Gio to see the architecture of Aalto in Ponti and Eero Saarinen, Finland and Le Corbusier in returned the sheets with original EVEN MORE Ronchamp. ¡Buen viaje! (Have a drawings (Jean Cocteau and good trip!) as Mexican artist Giorgio Morandi both sent extra RuƁno Tamayo wrote to the future works as gifts). They received FUNDACIÓ VILA CASAS OTHER SPACES architects. over 130 drawings, which were This not-for-profit foundation, of which In Barcelona, the two Espai VolArt briefly exhibited at the Joan Can Framis is part, was created in 1986 venues show works from the Vila Casa Collection for a Trip is at Can Gaspar gallery, with the by pharmacist and businessman Antoni archive, while on the Costa Brava, Framis (Roc Boronat, 116-126) intention of selling them to raise Vila Casas, with the aim of promoting the towns of Palafrugell and Torroella until April 3. money. But, tipped off by Cirici- contemporary . focus on sculpture and photography. www.fundaciovilacasas.com

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Shock of the new Africa BARCELONA GUITAR FESTIVAL 2016 Making Africa: A Continent of Contemporary Design is the visual manifestation of an extensive Running for four months, ongoing research project by Guitar BCN showcases acts German curator Amelie Klein from all over. Here are our assisted by Nigerian art critic March picks – get your tickets Okwui Enwezor. Featuring the work at www.theproject.es. of 120 artists and designers from across Africa, the show is a creative celebration of all things ‘design’ can be, says Klein – myriad mixed mediums that refer to local and global concerns. Yet African design is also used as a critical tool, to uproot Western prejudices and represent the eclectic, high- paced social, economic, political and technological change transforming the continent. A ADRIÀ PUNTÍ major thrust is to question notions Voted Best Creative in the 2015 Time that exclude Africa from the Out Barcelona awards, Puntí recently modern world, says Enwezor. brought out his first album in 13 years. Artist Anton Kannemeyer makes L’Auditori (Sala 2). this point bluntly with caricatures Thursday 11, 9pm. €24. that accost the ‘NGO mentality’, a relationship built on assumed Western superiority. David Adjaye takes on the lack of research and 2012. UNTITLED (MUSCLEMEN), LEONCE RAPHAEL AGBODJELOU. sweeping generalisations that saw Dutch origins and Indonesian that suggests a contributory incongruous modernist buildings design of what we think of as relationship between official and imported into terrains and climates ‘African fabric’ is still imported and unofficial trade in Kenya. It brings that they could not withstand. still in fashion. And the intangible up an intriguing idea about what we Urban Africa Project compiles but no less powerful relationship in Barcelona can learn from Africa, photos taken in 53 African cities between ‘want’ and ‘need’ inherent as Rosa Ferré of the CCCB spotlighting the atrocities and in the imported Western model of suggests: ‘If we learn to think marvels of urban settings, mass production and advertising is locally and think specifically, revealing possibilities for site- represented in Kader Attia’s skyline unexpected solutions may arise.’ CARAVAN PALACE specific, eco-smart buildings made of fridges that ‘overplay the –Alx Phillips This Paris-based French electro-swing of practical materials, like mud. American dream’. A provocative band arrive in Barcelona as part of a Another concept put to bed is the twist on perception is Jua Kali City, Making Africa is on from Mar 23 wider European tour in advance of a idea of ‘authentic’ Africa. The a take on the ‘informal economy’ to Aug 28. www.cccb.org new album due in October. BARTS. Wednesday 2, 9pm. From €22. Twilight of the Gods

Being performed for almost the feature in this performance 70th time at Barcelona’s Liceu directed by Robert Carsen and opera house this month is Patrick Kinmonth, which ‘reƂects Götterdammerüng, Richard on how humanity violates the law of Wagner’s Ɓnal part of the puzzle nature in an impulse of self- that was his Ring Cycle. Brought to destruction’. An excellent staging the stage by the Cologne cultural with which to discover one of association Bühnen der Stadt Barcelona’s cultural landmarks. Köln, this is an epic production for –Hannah Pennell JAMES BAY an epic work. The modern, military Winner of the Critics’ Choice Award at setting provides the backdrop Götterdammerüng last year’s Brit Awards, Bay’s folk-pop to protagonist Siegfried’s search Gran Teatre del Liceu. mix continues to delight audiences. for adventure. Themes of La Rambla, 51-59. Mar 3, 7, 11, Sala Razzmatazz. manipulation, betrayal and revenge 14, 19. www.liceubcn.cat Saturday 12, 9.30pm. €30.

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this live Ƃamenco show. A rapturous reception is assured for de la Rambla, 111). M: Paral·lel (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). the 72-year-old songsmith. (L2, L3). 9pm. €12. Music Daily 6pm, 7.30pm, 9.30pm. €25 Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (includes one drink). More info: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona tickets.visitbarcelona.com. (L1, L4). 9pm. €18-€84. Friday 4 Tuesday 1 Flamenco show dedicated to Classical Classical Camarón de la Isla Jazz Casa Camarón celebrates the OBC in concert – Rachmaninoff’s The art of the Spanish guitar: legacy of a Ƃamenco legend. Live Jazz Symphonic Dances music and wine Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, See Tue 1. (Ronda Universitat, 35). The OBC plays Rachmaninoff, Robert Majure presents ‘Flamenco 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), M: Catalunya (L1, L3). and Ravel’s Spanish Rhapsody Soul’. Santa Anna Church (Santa Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Mon-Sat and piano concerto. L’Auditori Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 8pm (supper), 9pm-10pm (show). (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries & ROa&KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU Closed Sun. Classical Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Info: tickets.visitbarcelona.com. www.casacamaron.com Mar 4 8.30pm; Mar 5 7pm; Mar 6 The art of the Spanish 11am. €10-€56. guitar: music and wine Jazz Classical Carmen, Barcelona Duo de Guitar Masters of the Spanish Guitar perform a candlelit concert featuring Marta Robles and Ekaterina Live Jazz at Jamboree Enrique Bagaría work by Albèniz, Granados and Z½ytseva fuse Ƃamenco and the Barcelona’s iconic club hosts two Pianist Bagaría marks the Rodrigo, among others. classical tradition. sessions. Check website for details. centenary of Enric Granados. Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi (Pl. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Palau de la Música Catalana 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: ROa&KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU FGC). 9pm. €23. Info: tickets. €10 (online in advance). www. Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. More info: tickets.visitbarcelona. visitbarcelona.com. masimas.com/jamboree €10. com. The art of the Spanish guitar: Live Jazz Spanish Guitar Maestros. music and wine Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Barcelona 4 Guitars Flamenco Guitar expert Joan Benejam (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Two men, two women and four performs Fandango. Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double guitars and pure virtuosity. Pastora Galván returns Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, session). Cover charge €8. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau See Tue 1. Tablao Cordobes (La 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & 7pm. €20. Info: tickets. Flamenco (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Liceu (L3). visitbarcelona.com.

Pastora Galván returns Electro-swing Opera Blues One of the best young contemporary Ƃamenco dancers returns to BCN. Festival Guitar BCN: Caravan Götterdämmerung Blues at the MEAM Tablao Cordobes (La Rambla, 35). Palace Final part of Wagner’s epic Ring Live music surrounded by modern M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Daily Parisian electro swing outƁt Cycle. See page 43. art and with drinks and snacks. 6.30pm, 8.15pm, 10pm, 11.30pm. presents new album <|°_°|>, or Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). €44-€78.50. tablaocordobes.com Robot Face. 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Mar 3, 7, 11, Every Friday. 6pm. €14. More info BARTS (Av. del Paral·lel, 62). 14, 19. 7pm. €11-€286. CPFVKEMGVUCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGUCPF Palacio del Flamenco show M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. From €22. liceubarcelona.cat tickets.visitbarcelona.com. A full cast of guitarists, singers and dancers, and the rhythms of the cajón, heels and palms. (Balmes, Rock Rock Flamenco 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5; FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & 10.30pm. Festival Guitar BCN: Adrian Eagles of Death Metal Stories of Love Options: show only; show + one Belew Jesse Hughes and Josh Homme A full cast performs the traditions of drink; show + different menu Legendary American musician and resume their European tour after opera, zarzuela and Ƃamenco. options (including tapas). €45- his wildly inventive guitar sound. the Bataclan attack in 2015. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau €160. €10 discount at tourist Sala Bikini (Av. Diagonal, 547). M: Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona QHƁEGURCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO Les Corts & Maria Cristina (L3). 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 8.30pm. (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€50. More 9pm. €25. €23. KPHQCPFVKEMGVUCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU and tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Wednesday 2 Pop Thursday 3 Tablao Flamenco Nervión Flamenco 17th Banc Sabadell Festival City centre restaurant hosts Catalan music del Mil·lenni: Bremen Ƃamenco performance. Flamenco at Palau Dalmases 17th Banc Sabadell Festival Indie americana from BCN Ɓve- (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, A baroque space is the setting for del Mil·lenni: Adamo piece Bremen. La [2] d’Apolo (Nou Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink

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€16.90; show + supper €27.90. Festival Tradicionàrius: De Dolçains, bandes i festa Jazz Tuesday 8 BCN Municipal Band spotlights Indie – Pop Spanish woodwind instrument, the Live Jazz Classical dolçaina, in a concert exploring See Tue 1. (Ronda Universitat, 35). Half Moon Run musical history. L’Auditori (Lepant, M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Palau 100 – Rudolf Buchbinder Canadian indie rockers tour 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), The great pianist performs second album Sun Lead Me On. Monumental (L2). 7.30pm. €12. Schubert and Beethoven, on his La [2] d’Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Pop-Rock 70th birthday tour. 111). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 8.30pm. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau €23 on the door. €18 in advance. Jazz Rozalén de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona More info: livenation.es. Popular Spanish singer-songwriter (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€40. Live Jazz at Jamboree visits Sant Cugat on her sellout See Tue 1. (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu tour. Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat (Pl. 62nd Maria Canals International Pop – Rock (L3). Victòria dels Àngels, 1. Sant Cugat Music Competition del Vallès). M: Catalunya to FGC: See Sun 6. Palau de la Música Kodaline Sant Cugat. 7pm. €28. More info: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Irish rock four-piece tour last Sunday 6 www.theproject.es. M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 10am, 5pm. year’s Coming Up for Air. Sala Bikini (Av. Diagonal, 547). Classical M: Les Corts & Maria Cristina (L3). Monday 7 Flamenco 9pm. €20. More info: livenation.es. 62nd Maria Canals International Music Competition Classical Flamenco show dedicated to One of Europe’s most important Camarón de la Isla Saturday 5 music competitions, a showcase Masters of the Spanish Guitar See Wed 2. Casa Camarón (Roger for new classical talent, starts with See Fri 4. Basilica de Santa Maria de Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Flamenco the Ɓrst qualifying rounds. del Pi (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (L1, L3; FGC). Pastora Galván returns de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Live Flamenco See Tue 1. Tablao Cordobes (La (L1, L4). 5pm. €5. Munich Chamber Orchestra See Sat 5. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Mendelssohn’s Scottish Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Liceu (L3). OBC in concert – Rachmaninoff’s Symphony, with pianist Alexei Symphonic Dances Volodin. Palau de la Música Live Flamenco See Fri 4. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Rock The passion of Ƃamenco in an Glòries & Marina (L1), Monumental M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. intimate tablao on Plaça Reial. Sala (L2). 11am. €22-€94. Suite Festival: Johnny Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu Hallyday (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, Music at CaixaForum The French Elvis, still going strong 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 Cantabile offers a history of Jazz at 72, rocks BCN’s opera house. (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos English music, from the Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, Renaissance to Adele. (Av. WTF Jam Session 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €50-€90. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). Anything goes at the long-running Classical M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). jam hosted by Aurelio Santos. 7pm. €12. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Wednesday 9 Classical music at the MEAM . ROa DQZQHƁEG a Cellist Oscar Alabau plays Bach, Camera Musicae Orchestra (online in advance). www.masimas. Flamenco Abdelmoula and Cassadó. Tchaikovsky’s 4th Symphony and com/jamboree. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Fauré’s Requiem with soprano Núria Gran Gala Flamenco Every Sat. 6pm. €19. More info and Rial and baritone Àngel Òdena. Opera Enjoy a grand performance of the VKEMGVUCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGUCPFVKEMGVU Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau classic Spanish music genre. visitbarcelona.com. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Götterdämmerung Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). (L1, L4). 6pm. €25-€35. See Thu 3. M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. From OBC in concert – (La Rambla, 51-59). €38. More info: tickets. Rachmaninoff’s Symphonic M: Liceu (L3). visitbarcelona.com. Dances Flamenco See Fri 4. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), Grand Flamenco Gala Pop Classical Monumental (L2). 7pm. Enjoy a grand performance of the classic Spanish music genre. Halsey Palau 100 Piano: Pavel Haas Spanish Guitar Maestros. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau The 21-year-old electropop Quartet Barcelona 4 Guitars de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona sensation gives her Ɓrst concert in Music by Martinu, Dvorak and See Wed 2. Palau de la Música (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€49. More Spain. Sala Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, Beethoven. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). KPHQCPFVKEMGVUCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU 122). M: Marina (L1), Bogatell (L4). Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). and tickets.visitbarcelona.com. 9pm. €20. www.livenation.es Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €25.

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Masters of the Spanish Guitar See Fri 4. Basilica de Santa Maria Flamenco Opera Sunday 13 del Pi (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Pastora Galván returns Götterdämmerung Classical See Tue 1. Tablao Cordobes (La See Thu 3. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 62nd Maria Canals International Jazz Liceu (L3). Music Competition SemiƁnal of piano competition. 17th Banc Sabadell Mil·lenni Saturday 12 Participants get free choice for Festival: Maceo Parker Friday 11 recital but one Spanish piece must The jazz funk saxophone legend, 2% Classical be included. jazz and 98% funk. L’Auditori (Lepant, Classical Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), OBC in concert – de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Monumental (L2). 9pm. €26-€52. 62nd Maria Canals Rachmaninoff’s Symphonic (L1, L4). 10am, 5pm. International Music Dances Competition See Fri 4. OBC in concert – Rachmaninoff’s Thursday 10 See Mon 10. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Symphonic Dances Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). See Fri 4. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Blues – Soul – Jazz de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona 7pm. M: Glòries & Marina (L1), (L1, L4). 10am, 5pm. Monumental (L2). 11am. Festival Guitar BCN: Ramon Music at Museu del Mirabet OBC in concert – Modernisme de Barcelona Palau 100 Great Voices Catalan singer-songwriter, with a Rachmaninoff’s Symphonic Classical concerts set against Rolando Villazón as Allesandro in second album in the works, takes Dances modernista stained glass and Art Mozart’s youthful work Il re to the stage. See Fri 4. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Deco furniture. pastore. Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €15. Monumental (L2). 8.30pm. (L2, L3, L4). More info: mmbcn.cat. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€125. Palau 100 Piano: An afternoon Symphonies at the Palau Classical with Milos The Vallès Symphony Orchestra Talented guitarist Miloš Karadagli under Rubén Gimeno: music by Flamenco 62nd Maria Canals International gives his Ɓrst concert in the Rachmaninov and Music Competition Catalan capital. Palau de la Mendelssohn. Palau de la Stories of Love Second round of qualiƁers. See Música Catalana (Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la A full cast performs the traditions Sun 6. Palau de la Música Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, of opera, zarzuela and Ƃamenco. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). L4). 8.30pm. €15-€25. L4). 7pm. €18-€68. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 10am, M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. From 5pm. €5. Zenaty Shapiro Duo €38. More info: tickets. Blues Internationally renowned artists visitbarcelona.com. Ermerson Quartet Ivan Zenaty, violin and Sandra Performing music by Beethoven, Blues at the MEAM Shapiro, piano. Palau de la Música Bartok and Schubert. See Fri 4. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Jazz L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Jaume I (L4). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €32. & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Live Jazz at Jamboree 8.30pm. €18-€28. See Tue 2. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). Flamenco Indie – Rock M: Liceu (L3). Ignasi Cambra Piano works by Bach, Grieg, Tablao Flamenco Nervión Festival Guitar BCN: James Bay Schubert and Rachmaninov. See Thu 4. English singer-songwriter, whose Monday 14 Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). debut Chaos and the Calm came de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona out last year. Sala Razzmatazz Classical (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15. Gran Gala Flamenco (Almogàvers, 122). M: Marina (L1) See Wed 9. Teatre Poliorama (La and Bogatell (L4). 9.30pm. €30. Masters of the Spanish Guitar Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). More info: www.theproject.es. See Fri 4. Basilica de Santa Maria Opera del Pi (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Opera at Palau Dalmases Pop Pop La Petita Companyia Lírica de Cobla La Principal de la Bisbal Barcelona perform in a historical Festival Guitar BCN: Adrià Punti Suite Festival: Antonio Orozco Traditional Catalan Sardanes by venue, with the singers moving Spanish pop group from Murcia The Barcelona-born singer and Garreta, Toldrà, Ventura, Matheu and among the audience. (Montcada, fronted by vocalist Jorge Ruiz. composer is one of Spain’s most Pujol. 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Every Thu. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries popular recording artists. Gran Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 11pm. €20. Info: www. & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51- de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona palaudalmases.com. 9pm. €24. 59). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €15-€65. (L1, L4). 7pm. €12-€15.

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Flamenco L4). 8.30pm. €15-€60.

Palacio del Flamenco show Pop See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5; FGC). Festival Guitar BCN: Tommy Emmanuel Flamenco show dedicated to Australian guitarist known for his Camarón de la Isla complex Ɓngerstyle technique. See Wed 2. Casa Camarón (Roger BARTS (Av. del Paral·lel, 62). de Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €25. Sagrada Família (L2,L5). More info: www.theproject.es.

Jazz Flamenco

WTF Jam Session Gran Gala Flamenco See Mon 7. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, See Wed 9. Teatre Poliorama (La 17). M: Liceu (L3). Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3).

Opera Opera

Götterdämmerung Written on Skin See Thu 3. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: 21st-century opera, based on the Liceu (L3). story of troubadour Guillaume de Cabestanh, conducted by composer Martin Crimp. Gran Tuesday 15 Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). Classical M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €10-€213.

Palau 100: Sir John Eliot Gardiner Thursday 17 J.S. Bach’s St Matthew Passion, with the English Baroque Soloists Classical and Orfeó Català children’s . Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau National Classical Orchestra of de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €25-€150. Romantic Miniatures for strings, with music by Rott, Morera and The art of the Spanish guitar: Tchaikovsky. music and wine Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau See Tue 1. Santa Anna Church de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, (L1, L4). 8pm. €12. L3; FGC). Chamber music: Remy Van Kesteren Flamenco Harpist Remy Van Kesteren and trumpeter Eric Vloeimans. Flamenco at Palau Dalmases L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries See Wed 2. (Montcada, 20). M: & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Jaume I (L4). 8.30pm. €8-€12.

62nd Maria Canals Wednesday 16 International Music Competition Classical The grand Ɓnal of the music competition Ɓnally arrives, with Palau 100 Great Voices the search for one of the world’s Magdalena Kozen½ and La best young musicians. Cetra Barockorchester Basel Palau de la Música Catalana under Andrea Marcony. Palau de (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: la Música Catalana (Palau de la Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, €10-€35.

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The art of the Spanish guitar: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Indie – Rock music and wine M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €18- Wednesday 23 See Thu 3. Santa Anna Church €54. concertsabarcelona.com The Vaccines (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Classical English indie band fuse ’50s rock L3;FGC). and roll, ’80s hardcore and Jazz Masters of the Spanish Guitar timeless pop. Sala Razzmatazz See Fri 4. Basilica de Santa Maria (Almogàvers, 122). M: Marina (L1) Pop 17th Banc Sabadell Festival del Pi (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya (L1, and Bogatell (L4). 8pm. €25. del Mil·lenni: Melody Gardot L3; FGC). Festival Guitar BCN: Vanesa American jazz singer released Martin fourth album Currency of Man last Opera Popular Spanish singer-songwriter year. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Flamenco hits BCN on her latest tour. Glòries & Marina (L1), Opera at Palau Dalmases Sant Jordi Club (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). Monumental (L2). 9pm. €36-€68. Palacio del Flamenco show See Thu 10. (Montcada, 20). M: M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). 9pm. See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Jaume I (L4). From €25. 17th Banc Sabadell Festival del Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Mil·lenni: Salif Keita ‘The Golden Voice of Africa’, Malian Friday 18 Sunday 20 music legend and international Thursday 24 star. BARTS (Av. del Paral·lel, 62). M: Blues Classical Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €24-€32. Classical

Blues at the MEAM OBC Concert: Shostakovich’s 13th Mozart’s Requiem See Fri 4. See Sat 19. L’Auditori (Lepant, Flamenco Mozart’s sole requiem, left (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), unƁnished at his death. (L4). Monumental (L2). 11am. Flamenco show dedicated to Palau de la Música (Palau de la Camarón de la Isla Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Palau 100: Budapest Festival See Wed 2. Casa Camarón (Roger (L1, L4). 5.30pm. €26-€53. Classical Orchestra de Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Info: promoconcert.es. The Budapest Festival Orchestra Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Spanish Guitar Maestros under Iván Fischer performs Barcelona Guitar Trio and Dance Mahler’s Symphony no.3. (Palau Flamenco feature three guitarists, two de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Post-hardcore – Rock dancers and a percussionist. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15-€100. Pastora Galván returns Palau de la Música Catalana Entershikari See Tue 1. Tablao Cordobes (La (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: English pioneers of rock-electronic Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €30- Young musicians fusion. Liceu (L3). €35. More info and tickets at Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). VQWTKUVQHƁEGUCPFVKEMGVU Josep-Ramon Olivé M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 10pm. €18. Info: visitbarcelona.com. Young baritone performs as part of www.livenation.es. Opera the Musical Residencies cycle. Fundació Catalunya-La Pedrera Opera at Palau Dalmases Saturday 19 (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença Tuesday 22 See Thu 10. (Montcada, 20). M: (FGC) and Diagonal (L3, L5). 6pm. Jaume I (L4). Classical €10. Info: www.lapedrera.com. Classical

Classical music at the MEAM Wagner and cinema Friday 25 Visit the museum, enjoy a concert Monday 21 Wagner’s music performed of live music and partake of a alongside the cinema soundtracks Classical snack and drink. Classical they inspired. Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Ukrainian State Orchestra Every Saturday. 6pm. €19. More Suite Festival: Emir Kusturica 8pm. €10-€91. Visiting orchestra performs Orff’s KPHQCPFVKEMGVUCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU Serbian composer famous for his Carmina Burana and Beethoven’s and tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Ɓlm soundtracks, with his No Spanish Guitar Maestros Ninth. Palau de la Música Catalana Smoking Orchestra. Gran Teatre del See Fri 18. Palau de la Música (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: OBC Concert: Shostakovich’s Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €26-€53. 13th (L3). 9pm. €30-€70. M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). promoconcert.es The OBC conducted by Kazushi Ono plays Mozart’s 39th Philharmonic Orchestra of Symphony and Shostakovich’s Barcelona and Chamber Choir Jazz Blues 13th. of Barcelona Diputació L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Mozart’s Requiem and Symphony Live Jazz Blues at the MEAM & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). No 41, conducted by Albert See Tue 2. (Ronda Universitat, 35). See Fri 4. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: 7pm. €10-€56. Santiago. Palau de la Música M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Jaume I (L4).

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Saturday 26 Flamenco

Classical Live Flamenco See Sat 5. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Classical music at the MEAM Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). See Sat 19. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Pastora Galván returns See Tue 1. Tablao Cordobes (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Jazz Liceu (L3).

Live Jazz at Jamboree See Tue 2. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). Classical M: Liceu (L3). Palau 100: Marc Minkowski A programme of works by Mozart, Sunday 27 including his Requiem. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Classical de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€125. Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Pachelbel’s Canon. Palau de la Wednesday 30 Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, Flamenco L4). 7pm. €26-€53. Flamenco at Palau Dalmases See Wed 2. (Montcada, 20). M: Flamenco Jaume I (L4).

Stories of Love See Fri 4. Palau de la Música Jazz Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Live Jazz at Jamboree See Tue 2. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Monday 28 Classical Thursday 31

Famous operatic arias and Classical choruses With the orchestra, soloists and Khatia Buniatishvili choir of the Ukrainian State Performing piano works by Ravel, Orchestra. Palau de la Música Liszt and Stravinsky. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €26- de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona €53. Info: promoconcert.es. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15-€35.

Masters of the Spanish Guitar Chamber music: Farinelli, Valer See Fri 4. Basilica de Santa Maria Sabadus and Concerto Köln del Pi (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Catalunya (L1, Counter-tenor Valer Sabadus sings L3; FGC). with one of the great Early Music ensembles. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), Jazz Monumental (L2). 8.30pm. €10-€52.

WTF Jam Session See Mon 7. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). Opera M: Liceu (L3). Opera at Palau Dalmases See Thu 10. (Montcada, 20). M: Tuesday 29 Jaume I (L4).

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Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon, archaeological Ɓnds in Tanzania. photography that uses classical public holidays. €5. Reduced: €2. themes such as still lifes, Exhibitions El Born Centre Cultural portraits and nudes. Collection for a trip Until Apr 3. (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I See page 42. & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 Fundació Joan Miró Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona The Art of Collecting Until Apr 3. 51. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Closed (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (Pl. Pons i Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Ernesto Ventós has spent around Mon (except public holidays). €6. (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue- Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 40 years seeking out works of art Reduced: €4.20. Under-16s free. Sat 10am-7pm; Thu 10am-9pm; 256 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. that suggest olfactory memories. Sun 3pm-8pm, free. First Sun Sun & public holidays 10am- Closed Sun and public holidays. every month 10am-8pm, free. 2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public de Montjuïc hols). €11. Temp exhibition: €7. FREE Pérez de Rosas Until May (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya FREE Barcelona 1700. From Espai 13: €2.50. 21. A visual (L1,L3;FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Mon- stones to people (Sala Villarroel) from 1931 to 1954. Sun, public holidays 10am-6pm. 18th-century Barcelona was Permanent exhibition Most €5. Reduced: €3. dynamic and forward-looking, but important public collection of Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de marked by war. works by the Catalan artist. Barcelona Montjuïc, the construction of a FREE Until it is done! (Sala Espai 13: When Lines are Time (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & castle Permanent exhibition. Casanova) Examining 14-month Until Mar 6. Swedish artist SoƁa Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles siege of Barcelona that ended Hultén presents an exhibition 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am- Berga. Permanent exhibition. with capitulation to the Bourbons where the objects contain the 1pm. Closed Sun, public holidays. From mountain to urban park Until on Sep 11, 1714. possibility of multiple stories. Oct. Work of French landscape FREE The Art of Silk in Barcelona architect, Jean-Claude Nicolas Espai VolART-Fundació Vila Fundación MAPFRE Until Apr 30. Exploring 500 years Forestier. Casas Casa Garriga i Nogués of the city’s silk guilds. (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona (Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de CCCB (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 401 26 Blue Project Foundation (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 03. Mon 2pm-8pm; Tue-Sat (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & 5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. 10am-8pm. Sun and public & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- public holidays 11am-8pm. Closed Closed Mon and public hols. €1. holidays 11am-7pm. €3. Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €3. Mon (except public holidays). One exhibition: €6. Two exhibitions: €8. Architecture, typography and Hiroshi Sugimoto Until May 8. Michelangelo Pistoletto Until Mar Wed (except public holidays) and other volumes Until Apr 24. Work Work by important post-war 28. Key Ɓgure of Arte Povera. for pensioners and students: €4. by Catalan artist Ramon Enrich, Japanese photographer. Edén/Anush Hamzehian–Vittorio Under-16s & unemployed: free. who trained with . Mortarotti Until Mar 13. Looking at Constructed landscapes Until Apr Fundació Suñol the theme of borders, speciƁcally + Humans Until Apr 10. How the 24. 20th-century by (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: the one between Iran and Armenia. future might be for our species. Jaume Mercadé (1889-1967) Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Making Africa. A continent of who used a variety of genres to Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat CaixaForum contemporary design Mar 23-Aug portray his native Tarragona. 4pm-8pm. Closed Sun and public (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: 28. See page 43. holidays. €4. Reduced: €3. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 476 86 Fundació Antoni Tàpies 00. 10am-8pm. €4. Under-16s free. CosmoCaixa (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia Dialogues of the gaze Until Sep (Isaac Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- 10. Collective exhibition exploring Conversations. Masterpieces T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun and public Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. the communicative function of art, from Impressionism and Modern holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mon Students and pensioners: €5.60. with pieces by Man Ray, Richard Art from the Phillips Collection (except public holidays).€4 Avedon, and Antoni Tàpies from Mar 11-Jun 19. See box on (permanent and temporary Documents of action Until May the Suñol collection. opposite page. exhibitions). Under-16s free. 22. Around 60 works from Les The Weight of a Gesture Until Abattoirs in Toulouse, from the Gaudí Exhibition Center May 1. Portuguese artist Julião The Material Room No end Anthony Denney Collection and Museu Diocesà (Pla de la Seu, 7). Sarmento creates a project based date. Voyage through the Daniel Cordier Collection. M: Jaume I (L4) and Liceu (L3). T. 93 on the contemporary art collection Universe’s history. Antoni Tàpies. Collection, 1955- 268 75 82. 10am-6pm. €15. of Lisbon’s Fundaçao Gulbenkian. 3D Planetarium No end date. 1965 Until May 22. Work that the Reduced: €12. More info: www. Windows on the World Until Aug Installation for exploring space. late Catalan artist created during gaudiexhibitioncenter.com 28. Short Ɓlms portraying the daily Flooded forest No end date. the decade. lives of certain communities in Living exhibit with over 100 Walking with Gaudí Interactive various countries of Africa, Asia species from Brazilian jungle. Fundació Catalunya–La Pedrera exhibition which looks at the life and South America. Talking about drugs No end (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal and work of Antoni Gaudí. date. Programme that aims to (L3, L5). T. 902 202 138. 10am- Can Framis. Fundació Vila prevent the consumption of drugs. 8pm (last entry 7.30pm). €3. Hash Marihuana & Hemp Casas The Birthplace of Humanity Reduced: €2. Museum (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries From Mar 9. Travel through time (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). (L1) & Poblenou, Llacuna (L4). T. 93 and discover the lives of our Toni Catany. Come and Go Mar T. 93 319 75 39. 10am-10pm. 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; ancestors thanks to 15-Jul 17. Contemporary Public holidays 2pm-10pm. €9.

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Under-13s free. MUHBA Plaça del Rei UNMISSABLE IMAGES (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 Permanent exhibition Past, 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun present and future of cannabis. 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7. FREE Grow on Until May 1 Three Reduced: €5. Under-16s free. Free decades of Sensi Seeds, the world’s Sun from 3pm. main supplier of cannabis seeds. Permanent exhibition Tour of the Jardí Botànic de Barcelona Roman colony of Barcino. (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya Renaissance Barcelona Until May (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. 16. Exploring journeys made by Permanent display: Daily 10am- some of the stones of the 5pm. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. Temp museum. exhibition: Tue-Sun, Mondays that Dawn of agricultural development are public hols 10.30am-4.30pm. in the Pla de Barcelona From Mar €5. Reduced: €2.50. 1. Looking at a key aspect of the local economy. Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from

global Med climate zones. DC VEGAP BARCELONA 2015 ©THE PHILLIPS COLLECTION WASHINGTON PICASSO. (1901). P. THE BLUE ROOM MUHBA Refugi 307 Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s (Nou de la Rambla, 169). cabinet of curiosities Until Apr. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 Reconstruction of one of BCN’s Conversations. Masterpieces... 22. Guided tours with prior earliest natural history collections. This major new show features art from the Phillips booking: Sun 10.30am (Eng), Collection and includes genres ranging from Romanticism 11.30am (Spanish), 12.30pm La Virreina Centre de la Imatge to Abstract Expressionism. Among the works on show you’ll (Catalan). Closed public holidays. (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. €3.40. 93 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public Ɓnd creations by Picasso, Degas and Rothko. CaixaForum MUHBA Refugi 307 Underground hols, noon-8pm. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). Mar 11-Jun 19. passageways highlight the city’s suffering during the Civil War. FREE Barcelona, the metropolis in the age of photography, 1860- Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public Closed Tue, Thu. €2.20. MUHBA Santa Caterina 2004 Mar 24-Jun 26. Iconic images holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mon Reduced: €1.54. (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Jaume I (L4). trace the city’s urban development. (except public holidays). T. 93 256 21 22. Mon, Wed, Sat Combined ticket for Museu The Jews in Medieval Barcelona 7.30am-3.30pm; Tue, Thu-Fri MACBA. Museu d’Art Etnològic + Museu de les Cultures Permanent exhibition. Discover 7.30am-8.30pm. Closed Sun, Contemporani del Món: €5. Reduced: €3.50. how life was for Barcelona’s public hols. (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat medieval Jewish community. (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 Permanent exhibition FREE Permanent exhibition 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; Understand society by comparing MUHBA Oliva Artés Remains among the foundations Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays places and times. (Espronceda, 142-146, Parc of the Santa Caterina market. 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except Land of potters Until Jun. Looking Central del Poblenou). M: public holidays). €10. Reduced: €8. at trades associated with water. Poblenou (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. MUHBA Temple d’August The sacred, the profane and the Mon-Fri visits with prior booking (Paradís, 10). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Miserachs Barcelona Until Mar festive Until Jun. Exploring the only; Wed 10am-2pm; Sat-Sun 256 21 22. Mon 10am-2pm; Tue- 28. Catalan photographer origins and prevalence of 11am-3pm, 4pm-6pm. Sat 10am-7pm. Sun 10am-8pm. captured 20th-century Barcelona. religious expression in Catalonia. Species of space Until Apr 24. FREE Interogate Barcelona, Permanent exhibition Remains Examining the spaces that deƁne MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents from industrialisation to the of site where urbanism and us by the way we use them. de Barcelona 21st century Permanent political and religious power (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 exhibition of recent city history. combined in Roman Barcelona. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, Modern 4pm-7pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, MUHBA Park Güell MUHBA Turó de la Rovira (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). public holidays 10am-2pm. (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). (Marià Labèrnia, s/n). Bus: T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun 10am- Closed Mon (except public hols). M: Vallcarca (L3). T. 93 256 21 22. 119,V17. T. 93 256 21 22. General 8pm. Closed Mon. €9. Reduced: €7. €8. Reduced: €6. Until Mar 28 8.45am-6.45pm. From CEEGUUJCUPQƁZGFVKOGVCDNG Mar 29 Tue-Sun 8.30am-9.30pm. Museum area: Sat, Sun 10am-3pm. 21st-century art Permanent Permanent exhibition The The Casa de la Guarda museum is exhibition of almost 300 paintings world of creativity and inventing. part of park’s ‘monumental area’, Permanent exhibition Barcelona and 80 . and visits are covered by general to the limit. MUHBA El Call conditions for admission. Access Museu Etnològic (Placeta de Manuel Ribé, s/n). with ticket only. www.parkguell.cat MUHBA Via Sepulcral Romana (Pg. de Santa Madrona, 16-22). M: Liceu (L3), Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Permanent exhibition The Casa (Pl. de la Vila de Madrid). M: M: Poble Sec (L3), Espanya 256 21 22. Mon, Wed, Fri 11am- de la Guarda, Park Güell and Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). T. 93 256 (L1,L3:FGC). T. 93 424 68 07. Tue- 2pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. modernista Barcelona. 21 22. Tue, Thu 11am-2pm; Sat-

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Sun 11am-7pm. Closed Mon, Wed, The history of vibrators and From the world to the museum. 8pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Fri. €2. Reduced: €1.50. female hysteria Until May 1. Product design, cultural heritage 2pm. €11. Reduced: €8. Permanent exhibition. Daily Permanent exhibition This Museu de la Moto de objects from a museum Permanent exhibition secondary Roman road was also a Barcelona perspective. Dressing the body. Hundreds of exhibits provide a burial site for the popular classes (C/ de la Palla, 10). M: Jaume I (L4). Silhouettes and fashion (1550- glimpse into life in Ancient in the Ɓrst and third centuries AD. T. 93 318 65 84. Mon-Sat 2014) Permanent exhibition. How Egypt. 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun, public women change their shape with Tutankhamun. Story of a Museu Blau holidays: check with museum. €7. clothes. Extraordinary! discovery No end date. 1922 (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc Reduced: €5. Under-8s free. Decorative and applied arts archaeological expedition that del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum collections (3rd-20th century) uncovered the pharaoh’s tomb. (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat Motorbike. Society, industry, Permanent exhibition. Art from 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays competition Permanent exhibition across the centuries. Graphic Museu Frederic Marès 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except of the history of the motorbike, design: from trade to profession (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). public hols). €6. Reduced: €2.70. from its beginnings as an elite Permanent exhibition. Tracing the T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am- Museum & Botanical Gardens: €7. status symbol. professionalisation of graphic 7pm; Sun, public hols 11am-8pm. Reduced: €3.50. Temp exhibition: Scooters From Mar 17. A look at design. Distinction Until Mar 27. Closed Mon (except public €5. Reduced: €3.50. urban motorcycles such as Vespas 20th-century fashion photography. holidays). €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. and Lambrettas – every day in Nutrition, vital instinct Until May BCN, more than 300,000 mopeds Museu del FC Barcelona Permanent exhibition Valuable 29. Fundamental concepts of take to the roads. (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 and artworks and objects. food and nutrition. 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 Museu de la Música 00. Until Mar 18: Mon-Sat 10am- Museu Marítim de Museu de Badalona L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries 6.30pm, Sun, public holidays Barcelona (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1. & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. 10am-2.30pm. From Mar 19: daily (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Badalona). M: Badalona-Pompeu Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am- 9.30am-7.30pm. Some parts of Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Fabra (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue-Sat 8pm. Closed Mon. €5. Reduced: tour are closed on match day. €23. 10am-8pm. Temp exhibitions & 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & public €3.50. Free admission Sun from Children: €17. Under-6s & FCB visit to Santa Eulàlia schooner: hols 10am-2pm. Closed Mon. €6. 3pm and for under-16s. members, free. €7. Reduced: €3.50. Permanent Reduced: €4.80. exhibition closed for remodelling. Permanent exhibition Take a Camp Nou Experience Permanent exhibition Remains trip through musical history. Discover 100 years of the club’s 7 vessels, 7 stories Until Dec of the Roman city of Baetulo. history and visit the stadium. 31. A trip through various stories featuring different sea vessels. Museu de Montserrat (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant Museu del Mamut Llaverias and the sea Until May (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T. 93 (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). 1. Commemoration of the 150th Montserrat). FGC: Monistrol de 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; T. 93 268 85 20. 10am-8pm. anniversary of the birth of Montserrat + zip train. Mon-Sun Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Group: €4 p/p. €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (6- Catalan painter (and sailing 10am-5.45pm. €7. Reduced: €6. 15): €3.50. enthusiast), Joan Llaverias. Temporary exhibition: €3.30. Permanent exhibition The story of chocolate from its origins. Permanent exhibition Museu Nacional d’Art de Permanent Exhibition Paintings Remains of woolly mammoths Catalunya by El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Museu de les Cultures del Món and other Ice Age animals. (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya Degas, Dalí and Picasso. (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L1, L3;FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Rocamora variations Until May 1. (L4). T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat Museu del Modernisme de Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, public The work of Catalan artist Jaume 10am-7pm; Sun and public Barcelona hols 10am-3pm. Closed Mon Rocamora uses reƁned geometry. holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de (except public hols). €12. Roof Emotional geography Until May (except public holidays). €5. Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 terrace €2. Free entry Sat 22. Selection of work by Josep Reduced: €3.50. 96. Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun, afternoon from 3pm. Temp Guinovart, with landscapes that public hols 10.30am-2pm. €10. shows: ask at museum. had a profound impact on his soul. Permanent exhibition Items Reduced: €7. gathered in Asia, Africa, Oceania Permanent exhibition World’s MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica and the Americas. Permanent exhibition Works most important collection of (La Rambla, 96). M: Liceu (L3). T. by 42 key Catalan modernisme Romanesque art and Catalan 93 318 98 65. 10am-midnight. Museu del Disseny de Barcelona artists. Ramón Casas and modernisme. Adults €9. Reduced: €8. 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2NFG modern life Mar 10-May 8 Xavi Gosé Until Mar 20. les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). Retrospective of work by Catalan Retrospective about Catalan Art Permanent exhibition History of M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Tue- artist Casas including posters, Deco–style illustrator who had a eroticism and its portrayal in art. Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except oils and drawings. brief but successful career at the The Bourbons uncovered Until pub hols). €6. Reduced: €4. Temp start of the 20th century. Mar 31. 19th-century satirical exhibition: €4.40. Reduced: €3. Museu Egipci de Barcelona images of the Spanish royal family. Combined: €8. Reduced: €5.50. (València, 284). M: Passeig de Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Barcelona scoundrel Until Mar (TGG5WPROROCPFƁTUV5WPQH Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 Joan Antoni Samaranch 31. Spicy images from the ’20s. the month. 88. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm- (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M:

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Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 292 Info: tel. 93 256 68 01 or Puigserver – Montjuïc) Sun 6.30pm. Musical exploring 53 79. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, museudeldisseny.cat. (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46/Pl. life during the Siege of Barcelona public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Casa Bloc A symbol of rational Margarida Xirgu, 1). M: Espanya in 1713. In Catalan. Patufet, el Closed Mon (except public social housing in Barcelona. (L1, L3;FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). T. Musical Until Mar 20. Sun noon, holidays). €5.10. Students: €3.20. 93 289 27 70. teatrelliure.com 4pm. €22. Under-16s €14. Popular Under-7s and over-65s: free. Reial Monestir de Santa Catalan kids’ story is brought to Maria de Pedralbes El alcalde de Zalamea Mar 2-6. the stage in a musical version. For Permanent exhibition Explore (Baixada del Monestir, 9). FGC: Wed-Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun children four and above. In in-depth the worlds of sport and Reina Elisenda. T. 93 256 34 34. 6pm. €15-€29. The abuse of Catalan. the Olympic Games. Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm; Sat, Sun power is explored in this play 10am-5pm. Public hols 10am-2pm. from Spain’s ‘Golden Age’. In Closed Mon (except public hols). Spanish. A teatro con Eduardo (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I €4.40. Reduced: €3.10. Mar 30-May 1. Tue-Fri 8.30pm; Dance (L4). T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15-€29. Top 9am-7pm; Thu 9am-9.30pm. Permanent exhibitions Murals, Catalan director Lluís Pasqual Closed Mon. €14 (combined plants and other treasures. takes on this work by Eduardo de Gran Teatre del Liceu ticket for museum + temporary Filippo. In Catalan. Surtitles in (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). exhibition). Collection only: €11. English on Sat, from Apr 9. T. 93 485 99 00. liceubarcelona. Temp exhibition: €4.50. cat and www.promoconcert.es Theatre Teatre Nacional de Catalunya Permanent exhibition More than (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1), Homage to Granados Mar 4,9 3,800 works from different Monumental (L2). T. 93 306 57 00. 8pm; Mar 5 5pm, 9pm, Mar 6 periods in Picasso’s life. El Molino 6KEMGVQHƁEG9GF(TKRORO5CV 6pm. €10-€153. Granados, Latest donations and (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, 3pm-8.30pm; Sun 3pm-5pm. tnc.cat Chopin, Schubert and Glazunov acqusitions Until May 15 L3). T. 93 205 51 11. united by the magic of dance. Selection of works and GNOQNKPQDEPEQO$QZQHƁEGU El professor Bernhardi Until Mar documents that have been Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets from: 20. Wed-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. €14- Mercat de les Flors added to the museum’s archive Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, €28. Extraordinary script by (Lleida, 59). M: Espanya (L1,L3; in recent times. 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFDQZQHƁEGU Arthur Schnitzler gets its FGC), Poble Sec (L3). T. 93 426 18 Catalonia debut. In Catalan. The 6KEMGVQHƁEGQRGPUCPJQWT Cabaret Experience Until Apr 2. Beatles for babies Until Mar before function starts. (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal Thu 9.30pm; Fri, Sat 6.30pm, 13. Sun 10.30am, 11.30, 12.30. OGTECVƂQTUECV (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat 9.30pm. From €24. Cabaret, €12. Reduced: €6. The Beatles’ 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays circus, song and dance. best-loved tunes in a concert We Spoke Mar 2. 8.20pm. €7. 10am-2.30pm. designed for young children. Don Anglo-Swiss group presents Teatre Gaudí Barcelona Joan/Molière Mar 17-Apr 24. programme with jazz FREE Catalan actresses of the (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). 8pm (except Mar 20, Apr 17 6pm; soundtrack. Vorònia Mar 3-6 20th century Until Mar 27. Local M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5). T. 93 Apr 16 9.30pm). €19.50-€23. 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €18. Shown stage stars. FREE Rafael 6+EMGVQHƁEGQRGPU Contemporary interpretation of at last year’s Grec Festival, La Patxot. Patrons, scientist... the an hour before function starts. the character of Don Joan. From Veronal give a return man Until May 8. Exploring the www.teatregaudibarcelona.com 14 years. In Catalan. performance of their latest work of Patxot in promoting creation. Dot Mar 12-13. 6pm; culture and science in Catalonia. T’estimo però no tant Mar 4-Apr Teatre Poliorama Sun noon. €10. Reduced: €8. FREE We’re all Supers! Mar 17- 10. Fri 8.45pm; Sat 6pm, (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya Family show with music, dance, Aug 28. Celebrating 25 years of 8.45pm; Sun 6pm. €20. Popular (L1, L3) T. 93 317 75 99. TIcket theatre and new technologies. Catalan TV’s output for kids. comedy returns for fourth run. In QHƁEG6WG(TKHTQORO5CV5WP The Dream Project Mar 18-20. FREE Ripoll Portalada Mar 2-Apr Catalan. Mozart Mania Mar 20- from 4pm until start of 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €12. As part 10. In-depth look at this Apr 24. Sun noon. €15. Classical performance. teatrepoliorama.com of a three-year project, Cuqui architectural feature from a town music for all the family. Jerez presents two new pieces in the Pyrenees. FREE 'NƂQTKFQ2GPUKN 0GPGU Until as well as works formerly Perelada’s big moments. 30 (Gràcia) Mar 6. Wed-Fri 9pm; Sat 6pm, created. years, 30 images Mar 10-May (Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3). 9pm; Sun 6pm. €10-€24. Daily 11. Looking back at 30 years of T. 93 289 27 70. teatrelliure.com life for Ɓve girls in post-war Teatre Victòria the Festival Castell de Peralada. Spain. In Catalan. (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel El Rey Mar 4-20. Wed-Fri 9pm; (L2, L3). T. 93 329 91 89. Pis-museu Casa Bloc Sat 6pm, 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm. Teatre Victòria VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEG (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras €15-€29. Fictional examination (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel Wed-Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from i Bages (L1). Guided tours in of the Spanish monarchy. In (L2, L3). T. 93 329 91 89. 4pm until performance starts. Catalan, Spanish and English: Spanish. Hamlet Mar 17-Apr 10. VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEG reservations must be made in Tue-Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun Wed-Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from Carmen Mar 30-Apr 10. Wed-Fri advance before Thu. Guided 6pm. €15-€29. Shakespeare 4pm until performance starts. 9pm; Sat 6.30pm, 9pm; Sun tours: Sat 11am. Information tragedy. In Catalan. 6.30pm. €19-€38. The Antonio line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Thu 3pm- Fang i setge Until May 28. Thu Gades dance company presents 5.30pm. Individual visits: €4. Teatre Lliure (Sala Fabià 8.30pm; Fri 5.30pm, 9.30pm; Spanish dance masterpiece.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 53 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Food & Drink @RicardMartn Pig out! Chivuo’s opens its second outlet down in the Raval: US-style barbecue meets the best pork in the world. By Ricard Martín

A North Carolinan barbecue – and fermented coleslaw – and the US barbecue style – works you’ll enjoy an unforgettable like this: you take a whole 70kg MARIA DIAS culinary experience. pig and slow-roast it for at least The new season brings new 20 hours over wood and charcoal menu items, including their pork (with someone standing by to rib sandwich. In this case, Latuff make sure you don’t burn the – he and his business partner place down). Out of the fiery pit – have a background in haute at an authentic barbecue it’s an cuisine – admits using the sous earth oven, dug into the ground – vide technique. The rib is emerges a golden, smoking vacuum-cooked for 24 hours at roast, crunchy on the outside low temperature, with a and juicy on the inside. It’s then sprinkling of finely chopped dried shredded and served in garlic, bay leaves and whole sandwiches as chunky as a pork peppercorns. Sometimes a chop. Outrageously good. single bite fuses bone marrow The two friends behind with fat and meat: pure magic. Chivuo’s (the name means ‘the Soon they’ll be adding a small, bearded ones’) are Venezuelan manageable Asian barbecue for cooks Juan Andrés Latuff and grilling fish. Alejandro Bringas. They’re They’ve refused to hike up determined to ‘become the their prices, preferring to spread interpreters of North America’s their philosophy. ‘This is a amazing culinary traditions in restaurant for working-class Barcelona’. So far so good: a heroes. Slow street food for year and a half after opening the people who spend the day first Chivuo’s in Gràcia – which working outdoors, who’ve has been a huge hit – they’ve earned a good meal and a established a branch in the decent beer.’ And don’t even Raval on the corner of Pintor think about skipping dessert. Fortuny and La Rambla, an area The cheesecake will knock in dire need of some good-quality you sideways. street food. They’ve stuck to the same CHIVUO’S winning formula – five gourmet Pintor Fortuny, 15 (Raval). sandwiches and five craft beers T. 93 218 31 54

on tap, focusing on local products MARIA DIAS PHOTOS: www.chivuos.com (they make their own single-hop beer, which is outstanding). ‘But we do things the old- Unlike The Pit, the legendary school way,’ he continues. ‘We barbecue joint in Raleigh, North grill the whole pig on a stone Carolina, they don’t have a whole barbecue, then finish it in a building to roast pork in. But they traditional oven for 12 do have one advantage: whereas hours.’ Cooking in its own in the USA, most barbecue pork juices, the proteins relax comes from factory-farmed pigs, and release collagen cooped up in their thousands and left, right and centre. suffering from poor diet and lack Have a taste of of exercise, Latuff says, ‘We have their pulled pork the culinary know-how and we sandwich – served combine it with the best pork in with home-made the world.’ barbecue sauce

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BAR OF THE MONTH The spirit 

La Personal 2013 DO Terra Alta. 14.5%

This wine is made with only the local grape variety garnatxa peluda, from vines that are over 60 years old. It’s a wild, simple variety that, thanks to those old vines, manages to create a wine that’s fresh, complex and elegant. According to the 2016 Guide to Catalan Wines, this red wine is the

IRENE FERNÁNDEZ best of the 1,300 presented. In the glass it has a violet- burgundy colour, fresh Slow aromas that recall wild berries, and the  transforms into a small club with irresistible bitterness. Next I mineral tones of local hits by the likes of Suede and decide to head to Japan, so I order balsamic herbs. The París, 186 (Eixample Esquerre). Spanish electropop duo Fangoria the Atari: gin, yuzu juice, sake, man behind La Mon-Thu 7pm-5am; Fri-Sat ringing out. Francesc Bretau umeshu (Japanese liqueur), egg Personal, Joan Àngel 7pm-6am. hands us a menu that looks like it whites and matcha syrup. This Llibreria, pays comes from the props cupboard visual and gustatory delight, homage to the spirit Saturday night. It’s a long time of an adventure film. The new served in three phases, has a of the Terra Alta since I was last at Slow, and from cocktails are small works of art, celestial foam and wasabi peas part of Catalonia what I can see, they’re still doing mixing liquids and solids. The as an accompaniment. Such an with wines that something right. I was drawn by a objective is clear – they want to experiment perfectly illustrates are authentic, foolproof siren’s call; a few weeks surprise, disturb and, most the ambitions of a menu that will uncomplicated ago they inaugurated a new important, explain a journey to the hurt your wallet, certainly, but will and extremely cocktail menu and everybody client. Each cocktail takes you to also take you on a voyage to elegant. who’d tried it was talking about yet a different corner of the planet, to Jordan and Japan at a cost of –Meritxell another reinvention by the veteran a far-off lost paradise. between €13 and €20 per ‘ticket’. Falgueras barman Francesc Bretau and his I opt for the Arabesque, which is Now that’s what I call a low-cost team. My liver is demanding inspired by Jordan, with gin, red trip. –Òscar Broc ambrosia before my companion vermouth, raspberry liqueur, cold Get your and I even step through the door. karkadé (hibiscus tea) and FOOTNOTE There are no half bottle at We set ourselves up at the bar distilled juniper. It’s a roller- measures – every drink is a Vinalium by the entrance, and end up coaster of nuances, a creation journey. The new menu is inspired (Casanova, 33) for €38 staying there all night. There’s no that mutates as you’re drinking it, by the Silk Route, and a trip to need to go upstairs, where Slow getting you slowly drunk with an unknown parts is guaranteed.

THREE CHOCOLATE CROISSANTS Breakfast like a king (or queen)!

BUBÓ BRUNELLS FORN DEL PI Not all the cake shops in the Born Theirs is not as delicate as the You can always depend on this neighbourhood are tourist traps. Bubó creation, but it’s no less of a cake shop/café that’s located just A good example of this is Bubó vice. Decades ago, Brunells off La Rambla, about halfway (Caputxes, 6). The croissant Ɓ lled patisserie (Princesa, 22) invented down. The chocolate croissant with chocolate and hazelnut a hybrid between the typical sold at Forn del Pi (Ferran, 12) is a spread is a luxury worth much croissant made in local bakeries Barcelona classic. The soft, curvy more than the €1.60 it costs. It’s using lard and the chocolate dough is painted with caramel, the covered in icing sugar and has one sold in patisseries. The two ends are dipped in solid almonds jutting out of it. Take a accumulation of layered pastry – chocolate, and there’s a chunk of bite and you instantly taste the with an enticing greasy touch – the dark stuff running through the delicate sweetness of the nutty hides a shot of semi-solid interior of the pastry from one end chocolate through the layers. chocolate that is dangerously dark. to the other.

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To Be MARIA DIAS

 own way of serving cannoli siciliani, tubular shells of fried Consell de Cent, 90 (Eixample pastry dough filled with sweet Esquerre). ricotta: she presents them in T. 637 152 992. P: €30. two halves, so that diners can share one, dipping the fried For three years now, To Be has dough into the magnificent brought the best of southern filling, the result of a fusion of Italian food to Barcelona – Arab and Swiss influences. We mainly that of Naples, which is finished off the feast with a where chef Raffaella Pisani rum-drenched babá napolitano. hails from. Having heard so The wines are all Italian and much about it, I went straight for on the menu at reasonable the pizza fritta (fried pizza) – prices. The interior is modest, classic Neapolitan street food. decorated with a welcome I wasn’t disappointed, but I was restraint. We will return. For our even more impressed by the next visit we left such tempting pizza bianca, which I ordered delights as the fetucilli a la with only oil, salt and rosemary. carbonara di mare, the tuna We moved on to a simple but tartare with buffalo mozzarella delicious starter of speck from Campania, and the pizza (lightly smoked South Tyrolean parmigiana with mozzarella, ham) accompanied by a superb tomato, aubergine, parmesan gorgonzola, one of the great and basil. –Marcelo Aparicio European cheeses, and walnuts. In the capable hands of our Neapolitan host, we THE BILL turned next to the pasta menu, another forte. The agnolini, handmade by Pisani, were (For 2) served with butter and sage, to 1 speck gorgonzola ...... €9.90 which we added a twist of 1 pizza fritta ...... €5.00 freshly ground pepper. They 1 pizza bianca ...... €5.00 were excellent, as were the 1 agnolini burro e salvia ...... €14.90 ravioli filled with exquisite 1 ravioli ai carciofi ...... €15.90 ricotta and served with an 1/2 bottle wine ...... €7.50 artichoke sauce – although the 2 desserts ...... €11.00 intensity of the sauce prevented us from fully appreciating the TOTAL (with VAT) ...... €69.20 elegance of the home-made pasta and its filling. The Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink desserts are also prepared by critics review anonymously and Pisani herself. The chef has her pay their own bills.

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loaves). The Andalusian-style calamars with bergamot mayonnaise (in a cute tube) are good, although they could do with a little more crunch, but the blood sausage fritters are not a success. The rest deserves a standing VIOLETA PALAZÓN VIOLETA ovation: duck cannelloni with the barest sweet-and-sour hint of amaretto; rice with cuttlefish and Granja Hofmann langoustines (one for the roll of honour); salt cod with peas In what was once Granja Lido, Mey Hofmann has opened Hofmann and pil-pil sauce (perfect), and Bistrot, with a menu based on popular classics. By Pau Arenós capipota – calf head and foot stew – with chickpeas and a refreshing Let’s think about chefs and the glassware and affordable food. or the beef for a quick lunch. This touch of spiciness. Add in a few diversity of their projects: 2016 is It’s a matryoshka doll – a was once the Granja Lido (if only glasses of Orto del Montsant to just a few months old, and the restaurant inside a restaurant. they’d rechristened it Granja wash down the meal. To leave city’s chefs are already branching Hofmann Bistrot is another Hofmann), which was owned by without trying the desserts would out. Josep Maria Kao, with matryoshka, with a sit-down Mireia Farràs, one of Hofmann’s be a crime – they’re masterpieces daughters Meilan and Nayan, is eatery upstairs, and, at street ex-students. Farràs wanted to sell of the pastry chef’s art. folding dim sum at Mr Kao in the level, tapas, late breakfasts and the business, which had been in Playfulness and trompe l’œil Hotel Claris; Hideki Matsuhisa is afternoon snacks (with a terrace her family since 1939, so she got effects create an egg (coconut slicing sashimi at Majide on C/ on the king-size pavements of the in touch with her former teacher. mousse and mango), cheesecake dels Tallers; and Mey Hofmann, avenue), from their famous The chef decided to give it a go, in its own little box, and a with her daughter Silvia, has croissants to slow-cooked eggs encouraged by the reception of hamburger (made of chocolate). launched Hofmann Bistrot on the with potatoes and sobrassada her gastro bar, and, with the help The granja as an institution has revitalised Passeig de Sant Joan. (Mallorcan sausage with paprika). of her team, came up with a a special place in the city’s They’re all professionals whose I recommend the squid sandwich menu of popular classics. It heritage. Originally they were business empires are still based dawns on me that Hofmann has dairies selling milk and cream, on making things by hand. ‘I an opportunity to serve up some which evolved, without putting on employ 70 people,’ says WHAT ELSE? historic dishes, the ones she airs, into a special kind of café, Hofmann, who helped found used to serve opposite Santa specialising in chocolate, milk Arnadí (which is now the Look out for: Maria del Mar in the Born, where products and simple dishes. The renowned Hofmann cookery The tables next to the she opened her first restaurant hour of the gourmet granja has school), as well as her Michelin- glassed-in mini garden. and still gives classes. Recipes to come (see Granja Elena, Pg. de la starred restaurant, to which she Recommended if: delight customers who know Zona Franca, 228). From Granja has since added a patisserie and You like the gourmet bistro they’ll be savouring a slice of the Lido to Hofmann Bistrot – or a gastro tavern, among other concept. city’s history. Granja Hofmann. ventures. At the Hofmann on C/ Stay away if: The roast pork croquettes are de la Granada del Penedès – site You don’t believe in a second first rate, as is the pa d’oli – bread HOFMANN BISTROT of the gourmet restaurant – she life for old favourites. with olive oil and rosemary (yes, Pg. de Sant Joan, 36 (Eixample has sacriƁ ced a private room to Hofmann has finally fired up the Dret). T. 93 246 43 83. open El Racó, with bar stools, ovens to fight the plague of frozen Price: €30 (not incl. wine).

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L’AVINGUDA FORMENTOR This is run by a Founded in husband-and-wife 1952 by team who allow Mallorcan baker ‘a lot of hours’ for Antoni Andreu, fermenting the this is still a dough for their family business. ensaïmades – Specialities indeed, it takes a include an apricot whole day. ensaïmada. Av. Mistral, 60 Camèlies, 19 (Eixample Esq) (Gràcia) SCOTT CHASSEROT SCOTT

ESCRIBÀ ESPAI At this historic MALLORCA spot, the At this place surrounds dedicated to almost take Mallorcan all the glory. culture, they More discerning receive a weekly clients can eat ensaïmada their ensaïmada delivery from with a knife and bakeries in fork. La Rambla, Palma. Carme, 83 (Raval) 55 (Raval) MARIA DIAS Curly wurly Hailing from Mallorca, ensaïmades (en-sigh-MA-dahs) are one of Barcelona’s favourite breakfast pastries; they come both plain and Ɓlled. By Hannah Pennell

LA PALMA IDEAL The origins of This bakery this near- (forn) is very centenary bakery aptly named – are, surprisingly, their ensaïmades in Ibiza. Pop in satisfy even and you’ll find Mallorcan exiles. medium and Step through large angel hair– the door and go and choc-filled back in time. ensaïmades. Ramón y Cajal, Clot, 72 (Clot) 120 (Gràcia) MARIA DIAS

LA COLMENA MISTRAL Biscuits piled A classic city up, jars of bakery that’s artisan sweets well-known for and tasty its ensaïmades. ensaïmades. For They come in a snack in the mini, individual, centre, head to small and this photogenic medium sizes. bakery. Pl. de Ronda de Sant l’Àngel, 12 Antoni, 96 (Barri Gòtic) (Eixample Esq) MARIA DIAS SCOTT CHASSEROT SCOTT

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and wonderfully comfortable. Còrsega, 200. T. 93 453 20 20. 7 Portes M: Hospital Clínic (L5) The eponymous seven doors open on to as many dining salons, all Bar El Velódromo kitted out in elegant 19th-century This classic serves quality dishes decor. Long-aproned waiters bring from early morning until the wee regional dishes, including a Ɓshy hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the zarzuela stew with half a lobster, a city’s cooking maestros) at the different paella daily (shellƁsh, for helm, they produce an endless example, or rabbit and snails), a succession of dishes and tapas wide array of fresh seafood, and that will teach you about Catalonia’s heavier dishes such as herbed gastronomic heritage. The full black-bean stew with pork menu is available all day, so if you sausage, and orujo sorbet to fancy some Iberian ham at 7am or a Ɓnish. Reservations are croissant for a midnight snack, available only for certain this is the place to go. tables; otherwise, get Don’t go Muntaner, 213. there early. hungry. Book T. 93 430 60 22. Passatge Isabel II, 14. restaurants at M: Hospital Clínic (L5) T. 93 319 30 33. timeout.com/ barcelona M: Barceloneta (L4) Wine bars Agut Barcelona has a wealth of eateries Can Cisa/Bar Brutal that have improved over the years. This restored neighbourhood bar Many are back on the map after combines a classic bodega at the having been forgotten, while some entrance with a wine bar at the provide the added bonus of having back. They stock 300 wines, all modernised without going mad, from organic or bio-dynamic allowing them to catch up with the producers around the world (so no demand for quality products that nasty chemicals or additives), and clients want. One such case is Agut. at accessible prices. Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) M: Jaume I (L4)

Freixa Tradició Casa Mariol The return of Josep Maria Freixa At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, which to his family home, now that his is part of the bodega of the same son Ramón has gone off to enjoy name, you’ll have the chance to get fame in Madrid, has resulted to know suau – a version of a drink in a real celebration of traditional (a blend of soda and coffee) that cuisine – pig’s trotters with prunes was popular in the Ribera de l’Ebre and pine nuts, cuttleƁsh with region decades ago. You can also artichokes, and perhaps the Ɓnest taste cask wines from the Ebre, macaroni in Barcelona. accompanied by a nice clotxa Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. (bread stuffed with herring, onions, M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) tomatoes and garlic), then top it all off with delicious cakes from Batea Restaurant Gaig (a town in the Ebre area). It’s currently all the rage for Barna’s Rosselló, 442. T. 93 436 76 28. top chefs to set up more-affordable M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) offshoots, and this one is under the guiding hand of Carles Gaig. Bar Nostàlgic His approach in this restaurant, as Although it’s located in the in his other ventures, is a return to fashionable Sant Antoni market grandmotherly Catalan basics, and area, this bar does not mimic the the favourite dish here is the Nordic aesthetic of many local canelons – hearty, steaming tubes establishments. They serve a good of pasta Ɓlled with shredded beef selection of wines, particularly and topped with a fragrant from Catalonia, plus they have cold béchamel. The various dining beer on tap and an impressive list rooms manage to be both modern of gins, malt whiskies and special

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 59 Food & Drink rums. Gin and tonics, spritz... they Montcada, 2. make it all, including tapas to STYLISH SNACKING T. 93 268 30 03. please even the most sybaritic M: Jaume I (L4) palates. Viladomat, 38. El Jabalí M: Sant Antoni (L2) This deli bar, which is reminiscent of Av. Paral·lel in its heyday, is a Magatzem Escolà great place to eat wonderful tapas It looks like a hoarder’s paradise of – try the patatas bravas, the wine bottles, but the shop’s staff chicken salad and the cured know exactly where everything is. sausage – while sipping on good You’ll Ɓnd a great variety of wine. It’s also a nice place to sit on products, which is the result of a the terrace and do some serious company that really knows its people watching. business and has spent more than Ronda Sant Pau, 15. half a century dedicated to wine T. 93 441 10 82. distribution. Keep a lookout for M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) their wine tasting and cocktail events. Tapas 24 Comercial, 13. Another nu-trad tapas bar focusing T. 93 167 26 55. on quality produce. Among the M: Barceloneta (L4) Museu del Disseny oxtail stews, fried prawns and cod Glòries is an area on the up, and one of its standout newer croquettes, however, fans of chef Monvínic eateries is the Design Museum’s café-restaurant. Think Carles Abellan will also Ɓnd playful This is one of the largest sofas, excellent coffee and cakes, an interesting set lunch snacks more in keeping with his information centres for wine not signature style. The McFoie Burger only in Europe but the world over. menu and amazing local views. Disseny Hub, Pl. de les is an exercise in fast-food heaven, It’s also a wine bar and restaurant. Glòries, 37 (Poblenou). www.museudeldisseny.cat as is the bikini, a small version of The latter – which focuses on his take on the ham-and-cheese traditional cuisine with a creative toastie. touch – is excellent, by the way. Tabarca Langosta’s Club Murivecchi Diputació, 269. Diputació, 249. Tino Martínez, sailor and chef This restaurant-trattoria is a T. 93 488 09 77. T. 93 272 61 87. extraordinaire, has an unusual direct relative of Un Posto al Sole M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) M: Universitat (L1,L2) restaurant in Barcelona in C/Urgell (No 188), and they both specialising in lobster. He has make really good pizzas. La Tieta recovered the recipes of the lobster Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. Chickpeas with prawns, potato Seafood Ɓshermen from the island of M: Jaume I (L4) omelette, mushrooms with garlic Tabarca, and uses them to create a and parsley, amazing olives – the Els Pescadors menu that includes lobster and rice Piazze d’Italia problem is knowing where to start. Josep Maulini and his wife have cooked in the lobster stock. A temple of southern Italian cuisine La Tieta offers good wine (no turned this into a lovely spot, Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. with an innovative and provocative classics, just what takes their combining antique furniture with M: Universitat (L1,L2) twist. The pizza chef makes the fancy that week), bottles of modern decor, and retaining its air dough spin and dance above his vermouth and an endless Ƃow of of a small-town bar. One delicious Ɓngertips before transforming it draught beer, while the food is recommendation: grilled sardines Pizza into an outstanding crust. Try their good traditional fare made from in sauce, though they don’t always sweet Nutella pizza, which is fresh ingredients, with skill and have them. Rice dishes are a La Bella Napoli completely over the top but not to enthusiasm. staple on the menu, and never There can be few Barcelona be missed. Blai, 1. T. 93 186 35 95. disappoint. residents who haven’t tried the Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Plaça Prim, 1. wonderful pizzas served in this M: Rocafort (L1) T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) place with an authentic Italian Taverna Mediterrània atmosphere and noisy, cheerful This small Eixample restaurant Rías de Galicia waiters. Book a table if you’re going Tapas combines traditional intentions This restaurant is the setting for at the weekend. with a clear determination to do the Iglesias family’s wonderful Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. Bar del Pla things differently. Classic tapas relationship with the Ɓnest M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Positioned somewhere between a are made with a touch of added seafood. The menu includes French bistro and a tapas bar, Bar imagination and effort – Cantabrian lobster with garlic, La Bricciola del Pla serves tapas and small recommendations include John Dory and txangurro crab A real Italian trattoria with good plates (divine pig’s trotters with Andalusian-style fried squid rings, cannelloni. And when it’s in pizzas and fantastic pasta. foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). delicious stuffed roast pork and season, they have the exquisite Features a noteworthy wine list and Drinks include Mahou on tap (a Ɓne their ‘city’s second-best’ bravas. Bordeaux lamprey. some great Italian grappa. beer that’s often ignored here Enric Granados, 58. T. 626 86 Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. because it’s from Madrid), plus 68 21. M: Diagonal (L3,L5); M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) M: Mercat Nou (L1) some good wines by the glass. FGC: Provença

60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] LGBT @itramselas Barcelona say woof! A new addition to the city’s LGBT party calendar launches this month, in the form of Bear Pride Barcelona 2016. By Hannah Pennell

It may surprise you to know that active agenda of bear meetings support of BCN Checkpoint, a here headed up by DJ Simone this will be the Ɓ rst time that that, at its peak, drew around free, confidential service that Bellintani. And on Sunday it’s Barcelona hosts a Bear Pride 10,000 visitors to Barcelona. offers HIV and other STI the turn of Rude, dubbed The event. After all, this is a liberal, About five years ago, things fell detection tests to men – the Real Men Party. open city that has for years had by the wayside somewhat, but first of its kind in Spain. As well as the parties, you’ll its own gay district along with a now the Catalan capital is Thursday 24 sees a also get the opportunity to see well-established Gay Pride aiming to get back on the bear collaboration with regular the work of a key local artist, parade that attracts thousands map. As the saying goes, all Barcelona bear party night graphic novelist Sebas Martín. every June. Not for nothing is good things come to those who Woofer, featuring DJs Dave His work, which captures the Barcelona the venue for wait. Urania, SantyDJ and Nacor Spanish bear scene, will be on Europe’s largest LGBT summer The six-day Bear Pride Vama. The following night is a display throughout the festival, Circuit, which sees Barcelona 2016 kicks off on hot ticket, as UK bear party festival at Two Hotel Axel another wave of partygoers hit Wednesday 23 with BIG, a BRÜT makes its debut in the (Calabria, 90-92). And when town each August. And hetero- fundraising event at Luz city. On Saturday, the you’re in the mood for a drink friendly parties such as Churros de Gas nightclub international flavour carries on with friends old and new, head con Chocolate have won fame (Muntaner, 246) in with Gorillas, billed as the to the Bear Factory Bar (Gran among those who don’t think best men-only party in Italy, Via de les Corts Catalans, 586), the good times have to stop which pays homage to a now- just because it’s a Sunday closed emblematic local bear afternoon. bar and is open for the duration So why Bear Pride of Bear Pride Barcelona 2016. now? According to Woof indeed! organisers, it’s due to a determination to BEAR PRIDE BARCELONA re-establish Barcelona 2016 as a European capital Various venues. for the bear community. March 23-28 It’s a role the city has www.bearpridebarcelona.com played in the past, with an

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn Mutek: non-stop avant-garde APPEARING AT MUTEK This year’s Barcelona edition of the Canadian festival explores the more Ƃexible limits of house, techno and jazz. By Javier Blánquez

be a taster event at BARTS, with a line-up halfway between classical music and jazz, wrapped up in electronica thanks to AƂoat (a new project developed in Barcelona) and the trio of Bugge Wesseltoft, Henrik Schwarz and Dan Berglund. AFLOAT The Ɓrst day line-up is crowded. The Barcelona project based on The Fàbrica Estrella Damm piano and electronics makes sessions start at 4pm, and on the its Mutek debut. Pianist Albert Friday the predominant style is Català joins forces with composer digital dub – profound pulsations, nev.era, a Mutek returnee. electronic beats with Pole, BARTS. Thu 3, 8.30pm. Deadbeat (main picture) and Shigeto (closer to hip hop), and classics from The Orb. The evening menu at Nitsa is basically house with an organic, hypnotic touch, thanks to sessions from Gerd Janson, Henrik Schwarz and the cyberdelic project Reagenz.

Exploring spaces less travelled The bulk of the festival’s big acts are concentrated on the Saturday, when the afternoon event will have POLE a travelling techno element, which Dub techno pioneer Stefan Betke, may even be improvised (the one aka Pole, joins forces with visual to watch is Vilod, the duo of artist and designer MFO to create Ricardo Villalobos and Max a multilayered show using old Loderbauer), and where cosmic and new media. Fàbrica Estrella excursions will be created by Damm. Fri 4, 6.45pm. young artists such as Vaghe Stelle and Valentin Stip. At night expect more techno, from the most SEZE classic Detroit style (StefƁ) to the Mutek is now a Ɓxture on technology stretched to the limit most violent and Ƃexible (Rrose, Barcelona’s electronic music as year after year the organisers Atomv & Tobias). This is what we calendar, and this regularity create a programme crammed ask of Mutek – an exploration of (which in this case also signiƁes with names setting the rhythm for spaces less travelled. And that’s ‘established’) is great news for the immediate future. what Mutek offers. Which is why, this concept festival, which This year, Mutek takes the every March, you should reserve a launched in Montreal and has, for shape of a weekend festival with few days to really enjoy it. some years now, taken Ɓrm root in two key spaces: the afternoon the Catalan capital. If you know one at the Fàbrica Estrella Damm Mutek Barcelona 2016 takes STEFFI that June means Sónar, in March is more contemplative, focused place at BARTS (Av. del Paral·lel, The Dutch-born, Berlin-based you should be just as aware that on complex rhythmic convulsions, 62), Nitsa (Sala Apolo, Nou de la techno star is resident DJ at it’s Mutek month. Avant-garde and the night-time one takes over Rambla, 113) and Fàbrica Panorama Bar in the German techno, experiments on the the Nitsa club night at Sala Apolo. Estrella Damm (Rosselló, 515). capital. This will be her debut margins of abstract dance and The dates are March 4 and 5, March 3-5, 4pm-6am. live set in Spain. Nitsa Club, Sala pop, cloudy atmospheres and although on Thursday 3 there will www.mutek.es Apolo. Sat 5, 2am.

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REGGAE KING

Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry The veteran producer and musician visits Barcelona as part of a European tour. Appearing the day after his 80th birthday, the Jamaican will entertain fans with tunes from a career that’s lasted almost 50 years. Sala Apolo. Monday 21, 8pm (doors). €25 in advance, €30 on the door.

this long-running club night. Sessions Sala Apolo (details above). Wed 12.30am. €12 (on the door). Nasty Mondays €9 (advance). Price includes Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: one drink. the city’s wildest Monday night party. Miss it at your peril. Cupcake Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Take a trip down memory lane 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon without forgetting to live in the midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 moment, with hits from the (advance). ’70s right up to the present day. Sala Apolo (details above). Thu Raw Rebels 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 Dance to the best beats of the (advance). Price includes one drink. ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local and international DJs, in the The Bus Music Club heart of the city. Session celebrating non- Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça commercial, non-mainstream Reial, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue and underground music. 12.30am. €5. Price includes Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). one drink. M: Marina (L1), Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. €15 (on the door). Wednesdays at Moog €13 (advance). Price includes Hear big names in international one drink. techno and enjoy one of Barcelona’s most authentic Trill atmospheres. Spain’s biggest Future Beats Moog (Arc del Teatre, 3). Wed club night features the up-and- midnight. €5 (on the door). €5 coming stars of the hardcore (advance). continuum. Razzmatazz (details above). Caníbal Sound System Sat 1am. €17 (on the door). Live acts, DJs and roots music €13 (advance). Price includes make for an underground vibe at one drink.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & tickets.visitbarcelona.com 63 Getaways Head out and about Around the Barcelona province this month, enjoy castles, jazz, Easter traditions and gourmet specialities. By Nick Chapman

1 4

2 3 1. Castell de Claramunt (Anoia) 2. Terrassa Jazz Festival 3. The Passion of Olesa 4. Gastronomy of El Prat de Llobregat

1. The Castles of Anoia 2. Terrassa Jazz Festival 3. Holy Week www.lapassio.net; http:// Anoia’s 40 castles, 14 of which This year sees the festival’s 35th Holy Week is marked in the elsarmatsdemataro.blogspot.com. are open to the public, are the edition, with 30 concerts featuring Barcelona region by dozens of es; http://badalona.cat jewel in the crown of the county’s the biggest names on the Catalan traditional celebrations. The heritage, and spring is the ideal scene, up-and-coming talents and Passions of Olesa de Montserrat 4. Prat de Llobregat chicken time to visit them. Most were built international artists. The 2016 and Esparreguera, featuring local and artichokes between the 10th and 11th programme includes vocal jazz amateur actors, are some of the From March 3 to April 3, El Prat de centuries, when the counts of from Cécile McLorin Salvant, hard best known, recreating the life, Llobregat celebrates its two Barcelona, Osona and Berga drove bop with Five in Orbit, avant-garde death and resurrection of Christ in unique gastronomic attractions, out the Muslim population and trumpeter Ralph Alessi, and the modern theatrical productions the Pota Blava (‘Blue-Legged’) occupied the territory. Some are Ƃamenco-tinged jazz manouche of whose roots go back centuries. chicken, and the local variety of easily accessible, others more Jorge Pardo and Sylvain Luc. The Armats de Mataró takes place artichoke, each of which have isolated, and they range from Shows take place in the intimate from March 11 to 25, with 14 their own EU-regulated Protected simple watchtowers to impressive Nova Jazz Cava, Terrassa Cultural scenes related to the Passion. On Geographical Indication. You can hilltop fortiƁcations such as the Centre and open-air stages on Easter Monday, the atmospheric sample dishes that feature both Castell de Claramunt and the Plaça Vella and Plaça Catalunya. Processó del Silenci o dels Misteris delicacies at any one of 42 Castell de Piera. There are over 40 parallel is a solemn procession through participating restaurants around http://anoiaturisme.cat activities, from Ɓlm screenings and Badalona, lit only by candles and the town. small concerts to lindy hop. small bonƁres. For info, check http://turisme.elbaixllobregat.cat. Mar 2-20. www.jazzterrassa.org these websites: www.lapassio.cat; www.agtbaix.cat/marcgastronomic

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Top Ten that often surprised his guests. 1 Nowadays, it still surprises, but Bullrings it’s no longer necessary to be a Following a victory for supporters New friend of the Güells to get in. of animal rights, these spaces Simply buy a ticket and learn all had to metamorphose. Las about modernisme (Nou de la Arenas (Gran Via, 373) has been incarnations Rambla, 3). a shopping centre for some time – and until a successful anti- consumerism movement comes 7 along, that’s how it’ll stay. La Noticiero Universal Monumental (Gran Via, 749) has Known as ‘the Ciero’, this was been mooted as the site for a once Barcelona’s evening mega mosque. We wait to see. newspaper, with its HQ at C/Roger de Llúria, 35 until it went under. Today, in the same 2 space, there’s a restaurant that Palo Alto has the paper’s name, while it’s What started as a textile factory only old nostalgics who has ended up in the hands of remember the time when the artists, artisans and latest news appeared on paper. professionals who, a year or so back, had the bright idea of creating their own monthly 8 market. Head over to see what’s Canòdrom Meridiana going on and enjoy the fun things At this greyhound track they organise (Pellaires, 30). 02 (Concepción Arenal, 165) dogs no longer run. Instead, investors are being sought to put money 3 into the projects of the city’s Casa de la Caritat young creatives. It’s called the At the start of the 19th century, Park of Creative Research. Now what had once been a convent, people no longer bet on speedy military barracks and mutts but on innovative humans. correctional facility was turned into a charitable establishment. This is still its role, but nowadays 9 the ones taken pity on are Miramar misunderstood and innovative Built for the Barcelona 1929 artists, welcomed at Barcelona’s Universal Exposition, from 1959 Contemporary Culture Centre, or to 1983 it was the base for CCCB (Montalegre, 5). Catalonia’s sole TV channel. Ten years ago, architect Òscar 09 Tusquets took charge of 4 transforming it into a luxury hotel Former barracks (Pl. Carlos Ibañez, 3). Sometimes, just sometimes, occupiers try to encourage revolutionary slogans come true. popular participation. Among ‘Let’s believe that we can do the other activities, they run the 10 impossible.’ Well, on the land Marina Ginestà library there. Artur Mas where the old Sant Andreu Ginestà was a communist The former Catalan president is barracks (C/Gran de Sant activist in the Spanish Civil War. another example of recasting, Andreu) stood they’re building El Rec used to be a branch of a because everything suggested social housing, a civic centre and savings bank. Again – who’d he would oversee efforts to bring a nursery school. Who’d have have thought it? independence to Catalonia. But thought it? things took a different path, and he’s had to give up his seat in 6 parliament and reform his party. 5 Palau Güell It’s not just buildings that adapt El Rec Gaudí planned this to be an to new circumstances, people do L’Ateneu Popular del Fort extension of Eusebi Güell’s as well. What choice do we have? Pienc (Ausiàs Marc, 72) is a house – it’s where the magnate 01 squatted space whose lived with his family, in a place By Ada Castells

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