OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN ENGLISH EDITION! ENGLISH

4,95€ SEP 2015 #010

PLUS! ’S BIGGEST FIESTA OF THE YEAR, TÀPIES VS. MIRÓ, MARKET SHOPPING... TAKE A TOUR OF OUR FAVOURITE SPOTS AROUND TOWN 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 3 Time Out Barcelona in English The Best September 2015

Barcelona is gearing up for its biggest party of the year of BCN to celebrate the feast day of its patron, La Mercè p. 24

Features 14. Hot spots Barcelona has over 70 neighbourhoods, each with its own soul and style. We take you by the hand and guide you through eight of them to give you a taste of just what makes this city so unique. 24. Time to party September 24 is the feast day of Barcelona’s patron saint (one of them, anyway), and the city pays homage to Santa Mercè with a week of festivities, including free concerts, processions and OCLQTƁTGYQTMU0KEM%JCROCPIKXGUWU his picks from the programme. 28. Face-off Eugènia Sendra compares and contrasts two of ’s most renowned artists, Antoni Tàpies and Joan Miró, as their respective foundations celebrate milestone anniversaries.

Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 62. Clubs

64. Getaways GIMÉNEZ IVAN Are you a sushi fan? We’ve got eight of the best 9GVCNMVQHQWTQH$CTEGNQPCoUVQREJGHUVQƁPF 66. BCN Top Ten places in town to get your chopsticks going p. 58 out which city markets they frequent p. 34

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Printer.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Legal deposit B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manuel Pérez | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván IRISNEGRO Moreno, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD®

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 5 The BCN_SEP 2015 hot list TUESDAY FRIDAY 01 04 Rocío Márquez Fermí Velez Trophy Flamenco Motor racing Young star closes 2015 Catalan circuit hosts Mas i Mas Festival. 24-hour car race.

SUNDAY MONDAY WEDNESDAY 06 07 09 Cursa Barça Cicle Palau 100 Fundraising night Sport Classical music Charity supper Road race that starts Season opener at the The stage of the and ends at . Palau de la Música. Opera House hosts. CURRO CASSILLAS CURRO

Tibidabo Live Festival. New open-air event at the hilltop Rick Astley. One of the biggest-selling solo UK male DON’T MISS! amusement part with acts including Yo La Tengo. FRI 04 musicians of all time plays at Apolo. FRI 25

FRIDAY SUNDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 11 13 16 17 La Diada 35th La Mercè Run Walking with Gaudí Swan Lake Traditions Sport Exhibition Ballet Catalonia celebrates its Popular road race as part 1HƁEKCNKPCWIWTCVKQPQH Classic work performed national day. of BCN’s Festa Major. major new show. at the Liceu.

THURSDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY TUESDAY 24 26 27 29 La Mercè Diana Krall Kazushi Ono Traditions Jazz Classical music Folk Barcelona takes a day off Grammy winner Ono conducts Ravel’s US musician returns to to honour its patron saint. promotes latest . Daphnis et Chloé. BCN with new disc.

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com I love BCN Montjuïc Av. Miramar, 236

The Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer What am I gardens in Montjuïc are ideal for a picnic or a relaxing walk. doing here?

Jan Fleischer Battle of the ‘barris’

Like most big cities, Barcelona is made up of districts and neighbourhoods (barris). Some people are born into them, others move into them, and then claim them as their own. Each has its own distinct feel and way of life. While some residents get very proud and protective of their barris, others have no problem moving around town and trying various on for size. Starting on page 14, you’ll read about some Time Out staffers vouching for their ’hoods, waving VJGƂCIUCUKHVJG[oFFKUEQXGTGF them themselves. Why do so many of us feel strongly about one corner of town? Perhaps we’re all trying to build a community in the big city, a village in our own neighbourhood. I lived in the same Gràcia- adjacent area for a decade, then moved just a postcode away, but the change was palpable – a new vibe, strange faces, and where did that bus stop go? Time to move again, and I ended up one street away from where I’d been those ten years. I hadn’t wanted to go backwards in time or place, yet

MARIA DIAS there was something comforting about chatting again with the woman at the fruit stand who gives OGVJGQFFHTGGƁIQTUVTCYDGTT[ WTF IS... being rushed out of the bakery Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer where they always know what I want when I walk in, and lingering once more with local friends on the bar terrace down the road. So, FGƁPKVGN[GZRNQTGVJGEGPVTGQH La Diada town in full, but take time to branch out into the small towns that make up this big wonderful city. A diada (dee-AH-dah) in general is an appointed day of celebration. La Diada Nacional de Catalunya is the National Day of Catalonia, held on September 11 to mark the defeat of Catalonia on that date Jan’s happy to live and work in 1714 during the War of Spanish Succession. on the same metro line.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 7 They say the Sagrada Família will be fi nished by 2026... 48 HRS IN BARCELONA

This giant cat is a popular landmark of the Raval.

Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agusti Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Born Centre Cultural you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron and shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring breakfast among the tree-lined glass structure built in 1876 as a home. As you’re strolling through Once called the ‘Barrio UVTGGVUQHVJG'KZCORNG'USWGTTG market. From there you can stop in the streets, keep your eye out for Chino’, the Raval has inspired Velodromo (Muntaner, 213) at the spectacular Santa Maria del +XQTK /KTCNNGTU CPGZSWKUKVG many a writer. Nowadays, opens at 6am, for those of you Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1), shop with local designs; On Land it’s a place where local really keen to get going, while a local favourite and setting for (Princesa, 25), where both men businesses thrive in the Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189) OCP[CYGFFKPI,WUVPGZVVQVJCVKU CPFYQOGPECPƁPFPGYVJTGCFU form of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and the , a and Studiostore (Comerç, 17), with restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet square that might not be much to everything from clothes and maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once look at but which has great eyewear to original cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, UKIPKƁECPEGVQVJGRGQRNGQH Urban culture is booming jump on public transport and Barcelona; it was built over a here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural cemetery where those who died 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book on ƁIJVKPIVQFGHGPFVJGEKV[KPVJG It’s time to eat www.parkguell.cat/en to ensure 1714 Siege of Barcelona were For dinner, try the Asian tapas at you get in to the ‘monumental’ buried. The square features an Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll but can graze from 16 different food zone and save a euro. Bonus! GVGTPCNƂCOGVQJQPQWTVJG melt in your mouth. Always a sure ‘stalls’. To top off the night, head in memory of the fallen. thing is a meal in one of the city’s the direction of the sea and have a fresh markets, such as Santa drink in Absenta (Sant Carles, 36) 12:00-14:00 Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambó, 16) and you’re sure to get a good night’s Gracious living 17:00-19:30 with its attention-drawing rooftop, or sleep, the more upscale Zahara Grab a bite down the hill in Sustenance and shopping try Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Borbó, Gràcia, at the woodsy and Stop for a break in one of the Born’s 21), where you don’t have to limit 69) or Café de los Angelitos spacious Café Salambó lesser-known squares, such as your choice to just one restaurant (Almirall Cervera, 26). (Torrijos, 51) or at La Pubilla (Pl.

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8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS

Head to Barceloneta to see the boats in the old port.

de la Llibertat, 23), specialising Alternatively, take L5 of the plentiful gardens, such as the in old-school local food or, if the metro from the Sagrada Família 19:30-02:00 Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, weather’s nice, in a square such station to the Diagonal stop and Big night out 2). Another highlight is the Museu as Plaça del Diamant or Plaça de stroll down Passeig de Gràcia to Try the out-of-this-world double Nacional d’Art de Catalunya la Vila de Gràcia. While you’re in LWUVJKVVJGOQFGTPKUOGDKIIKGU terrace of Invisible-Pizza Ravalo (MNAC), with its ample collections the area, have a look around for La Pedrera (Provença, 261), (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa CPFXCTKGFVGORQTCT[GZJKDKVKQPU some unusual souvenirs in the (Pg. de Gràcia, Carles for a healthy vegetarian shop-lined streets – suggestions 41) and Casa Batlló (Pg. de option (Jovellanos, 2) or the include Pinc Store for clothes Gràcia, 43). Mediterranean banquet that is Lo 13:00-15:00 (Encarnació, 24) and Magnesia de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining End on a beach spot (Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé your stomach, get a couple of drinks Take the cable car from Montjuïc to (Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the bar- Barceloneta, with its beaches and homewares. laden street of Joaquín Costa (46 DQCVUYJGTG[QWECPTGNCZYKVJC WANDER OFF and 39, respectively), and then vermouth and a paella. Most show off all the right moves on the restaurants in Barceloneta 14:30-18:00 Many visitors stick to the FCPEGƂQQTUCVVJGNKMGUQH#RQNQQT specialise in seafood, taking Explore central areas, but the city is so Marula, before calling it a night. advantage of the nearby Med. The 0GZVUVQRVJG5CITCFC(COÉNKC much more. Gràcia is full of prime real estate means some of Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very life at all hours of the day, the better spots aren’t cheap, but if crowded, but it’s worth taking Sarrià retains much of its 10:00-12:00 [QWoTGHGGNKPIƂWUJVJG[oTGYQTVJKV your time to appreciate his historical small-town feel, Mountain climbing Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La vision. Once done, walk over to while Poble-sec and Sant Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) Av. Diagonal to keep the Antoni are currently the places Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan modernisme theme going by to be, thanks to their top mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró de Borbó, 65). A great place for the UVQRRKPICV%CUCFGNGU2WPZGU cuisine and quality nightlife. Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), more budget-conscious, with a (Rosselló, 260), Palau del Baró And not forgetting the hilltop the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy de Quadras (Diagonal, 373) and theme park of Tibidabo. nearby constructions from the FKUJGUVQIQYKVJVJGKTTGNCZGFXKDG Casa Planells (Diagonal, 332). 1992 Games, or walk around the is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).

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Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 9 Tourism Desk

Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes

Take a break in nature and see the grape harvest How does spending some With a trip to the Torres time in nature sound? Take Winery you’ll have the chance a break from the busy city to see the tranquil setting and head out to breathe the where its wines are made. air of the nearby wine ;QWoNNIQQPVQGZRNQTGVJG country. Not far from OCIPKƁEGPV Barcelona, on a gorgeous grounds with a GZRCPUGQHNCPFKPVJGJGCTV walking tour BUY YOUR of the famous Penedès of one of the TICKETS AT region, tempt your palate Torres BCNSHOP.COM with a delicious tasting of family’s iconic 6QTTGUƁPGYKPGU vineyards. Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the city cosmopolitan city that offers centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You will be CPFICUVTQPQOKEGZEWTUKQPU SCORE A GOAL UWTRTKUGFCVYJCV[QWECPƁPF panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the bcnshop.com tours or themed routes through website and the Turisme de URGEKƁEFKUVTKEVUEQQMKPI Barcelona Tourist Information workshops, wine and chocolate Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for the There are many ways to visit little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings like the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música Catalana, or to museums, partner – and a multitude of taking advantage of the ArTicket TGCUQPUVQEQOGJGTGVJG or Barcelona multi-tickets, with culture, cuisine, music, art... free transport and discounts; and Whether you’re planning to babysitting services, wheelchair, see the best-known attractions pram and pushchair hire, in Football League Barça photo album or you’re looking for a truly special addition to the standard left- 'PLQ[VJGGZRGTKGPEGQHYCVEJKPI FC Barcelona has broken new GZRGTKGPEGCVDEPUJQREQO luggage services and airport $CTEGNQPCoUEKV[HQQVDCNNVGCOU TGEQTFU|D[YKPPKPIVJGVTGDNG [QWYKNNƁPFOQTGVJCP transfers. FC Barcelona, which is among twice. Get this memento of the suggestions to suit a wide range There are many Barcelonas to the teams with the most titles in side’s epic moments, which of tastes. GZRNQTG9JKEJQPGKU[QWTU! the world, and RCD Espanyol, a includes photos, autographs, You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of club with 110 years of history. results and more. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are bcnshop.com. Buy your tickets at bcnshop.com guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the bcnshop.com

10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 11 Get this timeout.com/barcelona Dine at the best restaurants Book a table through our website and enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the city. MARIA DIAS

Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info on what to do while you’re 6JGCVTGƁNOFCPEGHGUVKXCNUEQPEGTVU here in town kids’ shows... 1PQWTYGDUKVG[QWoNNƁPFFGVCKNUCDQWVYJCVoUQPTKIJVPQYCPFWRVQ You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website, date news about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you GXGPVUCFFGFGCEJFC[[QWoNNJCXGPQGZEWUGPQVVQJCXGHWP ECPIGVFKUEQWPVUIGV[QWTVKEMGVUGCTN[CPFDGPGƁVHTQOURGEKCNQHHGTU

&KUEQXGTVQRKFGCUHQTGZRNQTKPIVJG%QUVC&CWTCFCLWUVQWVUKFG$CTEGNQPC 'ZRNQTGVJGDWUVNKPICPFXCTKGFPGKIJDQWTJQQFUQH$CTEGNQPC where to eat, what to do... at www.timeout.com/barcelona/costa-daurada. at www.timeout.com/barcelona/by-area.

12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 13 MY ’HOOD’S THE BEST! EIGHT BCN NEIGHBOURHOODS ARE BIGGED UP BY THE TIME OUT TEAM

In Barcelona there are more than 70 venues, clubs, markets, parks – they HORTA, SANT ANTONI, neighbourhoods (barris in Catalan) of all all get a look-in, along with much more to THE RAVAL, GRÀCIA, shapes and sizes. In such an eclectic city, boot. By the time you’ve finished reading, who would dare to say that their area is you’ll want to hotfoot it to all EIXAMPLE ESQUERRE, better than all the rest? The Time Out of them. And 12 more barris and Barcelona team, that’s who. Here, eight neighbouring towns get a shout-out, POBLENOU, POBLE-SEC, members of the editorial staff argue the with at least one excellent reason to case for what they think makes their pay them a visit. So what are you BARCELONETA ’hood the best. Shops, cafés, historical waiting for? Let’s go!

14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 15 A COMPLETE BARRI, QUIET AND CHARMING, WHICH FLOURISHED HORTA THANKS TO AN ABUNDANCE 0F WATER

HISTORIC HOUSES PLAÇA EIVISSA 7PVKN*QTVCYCUCPPGZGFVQ 6JKUUOCNNUSWCTGsYJKEJKUNGUUVJCP $CTEGNQPCCTQWPFVJGEKV[oU OsKUVJGDCEMDQPGQHCNOQUV DKIIWPUJCFVJGKTUWOOGTJQOGU CNNQH*QTVCoUUQEKCNCPFEQOOGTEKCN SANDWICHES KPVJGCTGCCPFOCP[JCXGTGEGPVN[ NKHG7PVKNKVYCUECNNGF2NCÃCFGN 6JG[oTGLWUV DGGPTGUVQTGFCPFTGWUGF;QWoNNHKPF /GTECV /CTMGV5SWCTG CUKVYCUVJG CUCORNGQH the excellent GZCORNGUUWEJCUVJGRTGOKUGU NQECVKQPQHVJGDCTTKoUOWPKEKRCN ICUVTQPQO[ QEEWRKGFD[VJGTGUVCWTCPVU%CP6TCXK OCTMGV%NKODVJGUVCKTUVJCVNGCFQWV CXCKNCDNGKP 0QWCPF%CP%QTVCFC YYY QHVJG*QTVCOGVTQUVQR . CPF[QWoNN *QTVC;QW ITWRVTCXKEQO CUYGNNCUOQTG HKPF[QWTUGNHVTCPURQTVGFVQVJKUJCXGP JCXGVQVT[VJG unusual historical sites like the 6JGGNFGTN[OGPEJCVVKPIQPVJG UCPFYKEJGU HQTOGTRWDNKENCWPFT[#TIWCDN[QPG DGPEJGUCTGOQTGHCOQWUVJCPVJG KP3WKOGV QHVJGOQUVXKUKVYQTVJ[NQECN UVCVWGQHVJG+DK\CPYQOCPVJCVUVCPFU Fo*QTVC QRGPGFKP DWKNFKPIUKU%CP/CTKPGTCP KPVJGUSWCTG EivissaKUn+DK\CoKP  .QWKUG VJEGPVWT[masia VTCFKVKQPCN %CVCNCP #PF[QWoNNHKPFVYQPQVGYQTVJ[ 5G8CCPF.C %CVCNCPEQWPVT[JQOG VJCVJCU DCTU3WKOGVFo*QTVCYJKEJKULWUVN[ $CECTFKPC JQWUGFVJGDCTTKoURWDNKENKDTCT[UKPEG HCOQWUDG[QPF*QTVCHQTKVU CPFURGEKCNKUGUKPVJGCVTG UCPFYKEJGUCPF.QWKUG5G8CYKVJKVU Can Mariner: Vent, 1 QYPSWCNKV[UCPFYKEJGUCPFUCNCFU ⓣ 93 420 82 85 CPFCTQEMKPIRNC[NKUV

A CURRENT FAVE AMONG (BEARDED) CITY HIPSTERS, IT’S UNDERGONE A STYLE SANT ANTONI REVOLUTION IN THE PAST FEW YEARS

CARRER PARLAMENT LOW-COST LIFE 6JKUKUVJG0GXUM[2TQURGEVQHVJG 6JQUGQHWUNKXKPIKPVJGJGCTVQH5CPV 5CPV#PVQPKCTGCYKVJVUCTKUVGTC #PVQPKJCXGCESWKTGFCHGYENCUU[ DGCTFUGXGT[YJGTGsKVoUYQTVJ[QHC UWTXKXCNJCDKVU6JGHKTUVKH[QWoTG THE MARKET UVQT[D[)QIQN$WVDG[QPFKVUHCWPC NQQMKPIHQTIQWTOGVRTQFWEVUHTQO +PGXGTƁPKUJGF YJCV+NQXGCDQWV2CTNCOGPVCTGVJG CTQWPFVJGYQTNFVQTKXCNVJGHQQF O[.KVVNG DCTUHQWPFQPKVUWRRGTUKFGQPVJG JCNNUQHVJGHCPEKGUVFGRCTVOGPVUVQTGU /GTOCKF UGEVKQPDGVYGGP4QPFC5CPV#PVQPK WHAT I LOVE ABOUT JGCFVQ5WRGTOGTECVFGN/ÏP UVKEMGTCNDWO CPF%8KNCFQOCV6JGKFGCNTQWVG 2CTNCOGPV (TQOVJGQWVUKFGKV CU+NCEMGFC CARRER PARLAMENT NKOKVGFGFKVKQP HTQOGCUVVQYGUVNKIJVDKVGUCV NQQMUNKMGCUVCPFCTF5RCTUVQTGDWVKVU KOCIGQH 5QTVKFQTUFGN2CTNCOGPV 0Q CPF ARE THE BARS ON ITS TCPIGQHKORQTVGFIQQFUKUURNGPFKFs (NQWPFGT$WV 2CK6TCIQ 0Q DTWPEJCV(GFGTCN check out the selection of Italian +JQRGVQƁPF %CHÅ 0Q 4WUUKCPUCNCFCV$CT RTQFWEVU#PFVJGUGEQPFVJGINQTKQWU KVQPG5WPFC[ %CNFGTU 0Q VJGPRCUVTKGUCV UPPER SIDE RUNNING DNCEMDQCTFUQH%GNNGT(NQTKFC OQTPKPICV 6CTTCPP¼ TQWPFVJGEQTPGTCV (NQTKFCDNCPEC CPFVJGKTIGPGTQWU VJGOCTMGVoU 8KNCFQOCV +VoUCRNCEGVQNQUG BETWEEN RONDA SANT XGTOQWVJHQTLWUVa9JCV[QWUCXG UVKEMGT swapping [QWTUGNH1PGFC[YJGP+YCUOCMKPI QPFTKPMUVJGTG[QWECPURGPFCVVJG sessions. O[YC[CNQPIVJGUVTGGVCVQWTKUV ANTONI AND PGCTD[4GPQKTEKPGOCVJCVUJQYUDQVJ CUMGFOGVJGHCUVGUVYC[VQ DNQEMDWUVGTCPFCTVJQWUGHKNOUKPVJGKT VJG#NJCODTCKP)TCPCFC C/VILADOMAT” QTKIKPCNNCPIWCIG (NQTKFCDNCPEC 

SANT ANDREU with us, but this restaurant is still CHQEWUHQTCƁEKQPCFQUQHOQFGTP TAVERNA CAN ROCA Catalan cooking. Unfortunately the original chef Gran de Sant Andreu, 209 MORE BARRIS Josep Maria Roca is no longer ⓣ 93 346 57 01

16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com By Erica Aspas &GHGPFGTQHVJGRGTKRJGT[ HTQOVJGEGPVTG

PARC DEL LABERINT *QTVCJCUVJGQNFGUVICTFGPKPVJG EKV[YJKEJKUEGTVCKPN[UQOGVJKPIVQ Horta retains its small- BOO! DGRTQWFQH+VoUPQVGCU[VQTGCEJDWV town spirit and lifestyle, GXGT[IQQF$CTEGNQPCTGUKFGPVCPF and proves there’s more XKUKVQTYQTVJVJGKTUCNVUJQWNFOCMG to Barcelona than the There’s not much VJGGHHQTVCPFXKUKVVJG.CD[TKPVJ2CTM Gòtic, the Born and cultural life going on EVERY GOOD at least once, because it has the aura Gràcia. There’s a lot in Horta. Theatres and QHCRNCEGVJCVKUHWNNQHOCIKE&KXKFGF to explore, and even small music venues BARCELONA RESIDENT KPVQVYQRCTVUCPGQENCUUKEICTFGP if you’re just here for a are noticeable by their CPFCTQOCPVKEQPGCETQUUKVUPKPG few days, if you make absence, places such SHOULD VISIT THE JGEVCTGU[QWoNNHKPFUVCVWGUHQWPVCKPU the time to spend part as Sala Flyhard in La PQDNGDWKNFKPIUCPFOQTG5QKVNQQMU of your break in Horta, Bordeta (see below). LABYRINTH PARK – URNGPFKFDWVKVoUCNUQNQCFUQHHWPVQ you won’t regret it. Yes, there are a couple URGPFCHGYJQWTURNC[KPIJKFGCPF of cinemas, but they are WITH ITS AURA OF A seek with your partner or offspring in basically the exception MAGICAL PLACE – AT UWEJCRNCEG6JKURCTMKUCVTGCVGXGP that proves the rule. KHPQVGXGT[QPGTGCNKUGUKV YAY! Passeig dels Castanyers, 1 LEAST ONCE” //WPFGV . &CKN[COUWPUGV

By Josep Lambies #OCPYJQUJCXGUDGHQTG IQKPIQWVHQTCXGTOQWVJ

EL LOLITA 6JKUKUCRNCEGVQXKUKVGXGT[UKZOQPVJU It may be the ‘in’ BOO! #PFYJCVCXKUKV5QOGQPGQPEGVQNFOG neighbourhood, but its VJCV[QWECPoVUVCTVCOGCNCV.QNKVC excellent price–quality 6COCTKV YKVJQWVHKTUVJCXKPICgilda relationship hasn’t Ah yes, the ongoing CPQNKXGCPEJQX[CPFVJTGG$CUSWG diminished. And it’s a renovation works EJKNNKU CPFNKEMKPIVJGFTKRUQHQKNQHH[QWT pretty affordable place at Sant Antoni plate with your finger. I stick strictly to to live. I pay €230 a market... I admit that this routine when I go there religiously to month for a 20m2 room +ƁPFVJCVDQCTFGFWR EGNGDTCVGVJGUWOOGTCPFYKPVGT with natural light. Yes, ghost territory quite UQNUVKEGU#PF+oXGGZVGPFGFVJGTKVWCNVQ +JCXGVQYCNMWRƁXG entertaining. It’s like KPENWFGVJGETQSWGVVGDGKVQHJCO ƂKIJVUQHUVCKTUDWV JCXKPIC6CTMQXUMKƁNO OWUJTQQOQTYJCVGXGTJCRRGPUVQDGKP that’s great exercise. on the other side of the UGCUQP$WVO[TGCNIWKNV[RNGCUWTGKU window. But, dammit, the chicken rabasCMKPFQHEJKEMGP all I ever get to do is the HKPIGTEQXGTGFYKVJnDTGCFETWODUoQH vacuuming. HTKGFRQVCVQGUVJCVoUVTCIKECNN[IQQF YAY! .WEMKN[VJG[JCXGVJGOVJTQWIJQWVVJG [GCT+VoUKORQTVCPVVQIQVJGTGENGCP UJCXGP6JGTCDCUCTGETWODN[

LA BORDETAEQPVGORQTCT[%CVCNCPRTQFWEVKQPU BARRI GÒTIC #ECUGKPRQKPVKUVJKUOWNVKURCEG YJKNGKVUUVCIGJCUJQUVGFXCTKQWU XGPWGVJCVTGEQXGTUVJGTGDGNNKQWU SALA FLYHARD. 6JKUUOCNN RTGOKGTGU. OCAÑA.6JGTGoUUVKNNNKHGKP2NCÃC HWPURKTKVQHVJGOCPYJQIKXGUKVKVU UECNGVJGCVTGQRGPGFKP Alpens, 3 4GKCNGXGPVJQWIJKVUVGTOKPCN PCOG CPFKUCEGPVTGHQTJKIJSWCNKV[ YYYUCNCƂ[JCTFEQO FGENKPGKUTGIWNCTN[CPPQWPEGF Plaça Reial, 13-15. www.ocana.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 17 LIFE IN THE ‘CHINESE NEIGHBOURHOOD’ INSPIRED ROBERTO BOLAÑO AND MANUEL THE RAVAL VÁZQUEZ MONTALBÁN, AMONG OTHERS

C/JOAQUÍN COSTA KASPARO RavalejarOGCPUnVQGZRNQTGVJG 6JGVGTTCEGWPFGTEQNQPPCFGUQHVJKU 4CXCNoCPFUJQWNFCNYC[UKPENWFG DCTECHÅCPFTGUVCWTCPVKUKFGCNHQT taking a walk along a street such as GPLQ[KPICXGTOQWVJQPUWPP[FC[UKP DRINKIES ,QCSWÉP%QUVCYJKEJKUPCTTQYCPF YKPVGTQTCEQNFDGGTQPYCTOUWOOGT #VGORVKPIRCTV FCTMDWVKNNWOKPCVGFD[CP[PWODGT GXGPKPIU+PHCEVKVoUCNYC[UKFGCN QHVJG4CXCNHQT QHKPVGTGUVKPIUVQRQHHU;QWoNNHKPF 'XGPYJGPKVoUTCKPKPI;QWECPUKV XKUKVQTUKUVJG RNCEGUUWEJCU(WUVCoO CUVWFKQ KASPARO IS IN A FQYPYKVJCIQQFDQQMQTCIQQF OCP[RNCEGU YKVJXKPVCIGHWTPKVWTG0Q  HTKGPFCPFVCMG[QWTRKEMHTQOVJG for going (CPVCUVKM CEQNQWTHWNDC\CCTQH QUIET SQUARE WHERE FKUJGUUCPFYKEJGUCPFVCRCU out at night. WPGZRGEVGFVTGCUWTGU0Q CPF 6JGOWUJTQQOETQSWGVVGUCTG Start with MUSICIANS AND cocktails at .GU6QRGVVGU CHTCITCPVDGCWV[ OGOQTCDNGCPFVJGUVCHHCUYGNN 6CJKVK ,QCSWÉP UJQR0Q &QPoVOKUUDCTUNKMG FAMILIES COME, AND (CTHTQOPQKU[VTCHHKEVJGUSWCTG %QUVC CPF 1FFNCPF 0Q $GVV[(QTF 0Q  YJGTG-CURCTQKUNQECVGFKUCSWKGV [QWYQPoVNQQM QTVJGENCUUKE%CUC#NOKTCNN 0Q  EQTPGTYJGTG[QWoNNQHVGPHKPF DCEM ;QWoNNCNUQHKPFGODNGOCVKEEQEMVCKN FRIENDS MEET TO TAKE OWUKEKCPUHCOKNKGU VJGTGoUCNUQC DCTUKPENWFKPI6CJKVK 0Q CPF MKFUoRNC[RCTM CPFHTKGPFUVCMKPI 0GITQPK 0Q VJGJCKTUCNQP4WNQ THEIR TIME TO CHAT VJGKTVKOGVQEJCVCDQWVNKHG 0Q CPFCTVICNNGT['N$KIQVGFGN Plaça de Vicenç Martorell, 4 5T5OKVJ 0Q  ABOUT LIFE” www.kasparo.es

EITHER HALFWAY TO PARK GÜELL OR A PLACE TO CATCH UP WITH WHAT’S NEW, GRÀCIA DEPENDING ON YOUR OUTLOOK

FROM TAIFA TO PIA FROM THE LLIURE TO BECKETT %8GTFKECPUGGONKMGCPQVJGTRNCPGV 6JGTGQRGPKPIQHVJG)T¼EKCRCTVQHVJG YJGTGEWNVWTGCPFPKIJVNKHGIQJCPFKP 6GCVTG.NKWTG /QPVUGP[ CHGY JCPF6JGTGCTGEKPGOCU GIVJG [GCTUDCEMOCTMGFVJGEQORNGVKQPQH HELIOGÀBAL 8GTFKYJKEJUJQYUQTKIKPCNNCPIWCIG VJGVJGCVTKECNNCPFUECRGQHVJKU Many Catalan HKNOU DWVCNUQVJG6CKHCDQQMUJQR HQTOGTN[KPFGRGPFGPVVQYP#PFKVoUC DCPFUJCXG 0Q YJKEJVJGQYPGTUQRGPCV NCPFUECRGVJCVoUDGGPVJTKXKPIHQT gone through YKNNOGCPKPI[QWECPDTQYUGVJG UQOGVKOGPQY2QTVC 'UINÅUKC  CDCRVKUO UVQEMQHUGEQPFJCPFXQNWOGUQPC 5CNC$GEMGVV #NGITGFG&CNVDKU  QHƁTGJGTG 5WPFC[CHVGTPQQPDGHQTGJGCFKPIVQ 6GCVTGPGW ;GTQN CPF#NOGTKC YJKNGKVoUCNUQ UGGCHKNO+oXGHQWPFSWCNKV[VKVNGU 5CPV.NWÉU CTGVJGUOCNNGT RNC[GFJQUV to excellent there such as Flaubert’s Parrot by UKDNKPIUQHVJG.NKWTGCURCEGVJCVKU RQGVU6JG ,WNKCP$CTPGUCPF6JQOCU/CPPoU VJGETKDQHEQPVGORQTCT[%CVCNCP staff are the Doctor Faustus,WUVPGZVVQ2NCÃC VJGCVTGCPFYJKEJKPCFFKVKQPYCU nicest in the 4GXQNWEKÏKUVJGLGYGNNGT[UVQTG2KC TGDQTPYKVJCPGZEGNNGPVVCRCUCPFIKP DCTTK 4COQP[ 0Q YJKEJJCUQPN[DGGPKPVJG DCT6JGQPN[DCFPGYUKUVJGRQUUKDNG %CLCN  area for a few years, but has HWVWTGFGRCTVWTGQHVJG$GEMGVVHTQO GUVCDNKUJGFKVUGNHCUCURCEG[QW VJGCTGCVQ2QDNGPQW&GURKVGVJKUKVoU TCTGN[NGCXGGORV[JCPFGF6JGUJKP[ ENGCTVJCVKH[QWoTGCVJGCVTGDWHH UKNXGTRKGEGUCTGG[GECVEJKPI )T¼EKCoUVJGRNCEGHQT[QW

THE BORN VJGOQUVFGUKIPRGTUSWCTGOGVTG. #IQQFGZCORNGKU6JG$QZYJGTG THE BOX.5QOGTGUKFGPVUOC[ NQECNFGUKIPGTUUJQYQHHVJGKTYCTGU not like it, but the fact is the Born is Brosolí, 8 MORE BARRIS XGT[nKPoTKIJVPQYsKVoUVJGCTGCYKVJ VJGDQZUJQRDEPDNQIURQVEQOGU

18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com By Anna Mateu Mur 5JGoUPQVCHTCKFQHVJG Botero cat sculpture

SANT PAU DEL CAMP 'UECRGVJGDWUVNKPIEGPVTGQHVJG4CXCN The Raval is a cultural BOO! CPFJGCFFQYP%5CPV2CWVQYCTFU incubator, and I’m not 2CTCN“NGN;QWoNNFKUEQXGTCDGCWVKHWN just talking about the UWTRTKUGKPVJGHQTOQHVJGUOCNN5CPV MACBA, CCCB, Romea Despite concerted 2CWFGN%COROQPCUVGT[QPGQHVJG theatre and Filmoteca. efforts to wipe away DGUVRTGUGTXGF4QOCPKEEQPUVTWEVKQPU There are also small the more dubious KPVJGEKV[+VUPCOGFQGUPoVEQOGHTQO venues welcoming up- features of its past, VJGICTFGPUVJCVUWTTQWPFKV camp and-coming musicians, problems with security, OGCPUnEQWPVT[UKFGoKP%CVCNCP  such as 23 Robadors cleanliness and noise although they are an excellent choice (C/ d’en Robador, are still a reality in HQTCFC[VKOGUVTQNN+PUVGCFVJGPCOG 23) and Horiginal the Raval, which EQOGUHTQOVJGHCEVVJCVYJGPKVYCU (Ferlandina, 29). is one of the most DWKNVOQTGVJCPVGPEGPVWTKGUCIQVJG densely populated OQPCUVGT[YCUQWVUKFGVJGRTQVGEVKQP neighbourhoods in QHVJGEKV[oUYCNNU6JKUOGCPVKVYCU Europe. QHHKEKCNN[NQECVGFKPVJGEQWPVT[CPFKV YAY! UVKNNTGVCKPUCTWTCNCODKGPEG Sant Pau, 101 YGDUQPQEQOUCPVRCWFGNECOR

By Andreu Gomila +VoUYJGPJGUNGGRUVJCVJG sees things clearly

FROM CAL BOTER TO RESOLÍS 6JGEQFYKVJICTNKEOC[QPPCKUGCV%CN $QVGT 6QTFGTC YKNNOCMG[QWYCPV The local cultural life BOO! VQUVC[KP)T¼EKCHQTGXGTYJKNGVJGKTUGV is intense, diverse and NWPEJOGPWKUUKORN[URGEVCEWNCT a source of envy. There )TKNNGFOGCVUCTGVJGKTURGEKCNKV[CPF are more theatres, Nowhere is perfect, and VJG[JCXGCTQWPFVCDNGVJCVUKVUGKIJV concert venues and the Gràcia nightlife is ON THE SUNNY TERRACE KFGCNHQTUOCNNITQWRUNQQMKPIVQGCV cinemas than in Girona. somewhat stagnant. CPFFTKPMYGNN#NQPIVJGUCOGUVTGGV And there’s something The only high spot is the OF RESOLÍS, ON PLAÇA QP2NCÃC4CURCNNVJGJGCTVQH)T¼EKCoU for all ages. Bookshops short distance between I[RU[EQOOWPKV[VJGTGoUCPQVJGTDCT are lacking, but in Entresòl (Planeta, 39) RASPALL, YOU COULD YQTVJVCMKPI[QWTVKOGQXGTKH[QWYCPV recent times they’ve and Musical Maria VQGUECRGVJGETQYFUs4GUQNÉU been starting to open (Maria, 5). When the FIND THE INSPIRATION 6QTFGTC 'XGPVJQWIJKVOKIJVPQV around the district. local bars close, the TO ACTUALLY FINISH NQQMNKMGOWEJVJGVCRCUCTGFGNKEKQWU question’s always the CPFYJGPKVoUUWPP[VJGTGoUPQITGCVGT same: Where do we go THAT NOVEL YOU’VE RNGCUWTGVJCPTGNCZKPIQPKVUOKPK to dance? VGTTCEG+VoUVJGMKPFQHRNCEG[QWEQWNF YAY! HKPFVJGKPURKTCVKQPVQCEVWCNN[HKPKUJ BEEN WORKING ON” VJCVPQXGN[QWoXGDGGPYQTMKPIQP

LA SAGRERARGTHQTOKPICTVUVJCVIKXGUUWRRQTV EIXAMPLE DRET OQTGGZEGNNGPVUVQTGUKPVJGEKV[ VQCTVKUVKERTQLGEVUHTQO[QWPI QPVJGƁTUVƂQQTKVJCUCECHÅYKVJC NAU IVANOW.(TQOCRCKPVHCEVQT[ ETGCVKXGU. LA CENTRAL. Not only is it the spectacular terrace. VQCHCEVQT[QHEWNVWTCNETGCVKXKV[VJG Hondures, 28-30 best bookshop in Barcelona, the Mallorca, 237 +XCPQYKUCURCEGURGEKCNKUGFKP YYYPCWKXCPQYEQO OQVJGTUJKRQHCƂGGVQHVJTGG YYYNCEGPVTCNEQO

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 19 EIXAMPLE ESQUERRE

MORRO FI LITTLE TOKYO 6JGTGoUCEQTPGTQHVJKUDCTTKVJCVoU 6JG[UC[DTGCMHCUVKUVJGOQUV JQVCPFPQVLWUVDGECWUGKVoU KORQTVCPVOGCNQHVJGFC[CPFVJKUKUVJG VQWEJGFD[VJGOKFFC[UWPKVoUFWG RNCEGVQVCMGYJQGXGTnVJG[oCTGCVVJGKT DRESSING UP VQVJGJCTFYQTMQH/QTTQ(KYJKEJ YQTFCNOQPFQTOCPIQETQKUUCPVQTC 'PTKE GXGT[YGGMGPFDGEQOGUVJG DCPCPCCPFEJQEQNCVGHKNNGFRCUVT[ )TCPCFQUKU CSWKGVVTGG FGUVKPCVKQPQHEJQKEGHQTVJGYQTMKPI RNGCUG6JGFGNKIJVUQH1EJKCKDCMGT[ NKPGFUVTGGV CPFETGCVKXG ENCUUGUQHVJGCTGC+H 7TIGNN UCVKUH[VJGUYGGVVQQVJGF VJCVoUJQOG [QWIGVVJGTGCVROCPFECPoVHKPFC CPFFGXQVGGUQH,CRCPGUGRCVKUUGTKG+H to galleries, HTGGUVQQN[QWoNNJCXGVQFTKPM[QWT [QWYCPVVQEQORNGVGVJGGZRGTKGPEG DQWVKSWGU HKTUVXGTOQWVJUVCPFKPIWR9JGP JGCFVQVJG7PC/KECFG,CRÏVCXGTP CPFECHÅU(QT [QWIGVCRNCEGCVVJGDCT[QWoNNVCUVG #TCIÏ +VoUCUOCNNHTKGPFN[ RTGVV[FTGUUGU VJGDGUVEQEMNGUOCTKPCVGFKP TGUVCWTCPVYJGTGVJG[FQPoVOCMGUWUJK CPFCTVKUVKE RTKPVU#KNCPVQ XKPGICTCPFRGRRGT[QWoNNGXGTJCXG but rather prepare authentic bento KUCOWUVXKUKV CPFVJKEMEWVHTKGFRQVCVQGUYKVJC DQZGUYKVJNQXGs+ECPVGUVKH[VQKV+VoU 0Q  special aperitif sauce that will bring LWUVCUJQTVYCNMHTQOQPGRNCEGVQVJG VGCTUQHLQ[VQ[QWTG[GU+VoUVJGUG QVJGT%QWNFVJKUDGEQKPEKFGPEG! little things in life that count. &GUVKP[!1TUJCNNYGKPFWNIGVJGHCPVCU[ Consell de Cent, 171 VJCV'KZCORNGCTEJKVGEV+NFGHQPU%GTF¼ YYYOQTTQƁECV JCF,CRCPGUGTQQVU!

A NEIGHBOURHOOD WHERE YOU CAN ALWAYS GET TO THE BEACH VIA THE POBLENOU SUNNY SIDE OF THE STREET

THE GARAGE OF MY HOUSE SALA ROCKSOUND 1P%2CNNCTUDGVYGGP.NCEWPCCPF $WVTQEMoPoTQNNKUPoVFGCFKP2QDNGPQW 4QE$QTQPCVQPEGUVQQF)CTCVIG +PVJGOQUVFGUQNCVGRCTVQHVJG %NWDCEQPEGTVXGPWGVJCVYCUCECXG PGKIJDQWTJQQFYKVJCEGTVCKPMad KID-FRIENDLY KPVGTOUQHHCEKNKVKGUDWVYJQUG Max HGGNCPFJKFFGPD[VJGJWIG 2QDNGPQWKUC RTQITCOOGYCUCPGRKRJCP[HQTVJKU 4C\\OCVC\\ENWD5CNC4QEMUQWPF MKFUoDCTTK#PF YTKVGT*KUVQTKEPKIJVU+NKXGFVJGTG QTICPKUGUOGOQTCDNGPKIJVUQHTQEM KVoUHQTVJGO /CTM.CPGICP YKVJQPGOGODGT ROCK ’N’ ROLL ISN’T +VoUCUOCNNOKTCENGQPVJGITQWPF that places QH&KPQUCWT,TCPFQPGHTQO HNQQTQHCOQFGTPKUVCJQWUGVJCVoU NKMG6JG2CRCU DEAD IN POBLENOU. 6JG/COCU 5QWPFICTFGP CPF6JG*KXGUVQIKXG falling apart is a rock club that QRGP 4CODNC LWUVVYQGZCORNGU+VENQUGFKP SALA ROCKSOUND EQODKPGUVJGUOGNNQHTCPEKFDGGTYKVJ FGN2QDNGPQW but in one of those strange twists of CPCOC\KPIUQWPFRTQQHKPIU[UVGO  sCECHÅ NKHGO[GPVT[KPVQCFWNVJQQFYCU .QECNCEVUJCXGRNC[GF4QEMUQWPF YKVJYQQFGP OCTMGFD[HCVJGTJQQFCPFVJG COMBINES THE UWEJCU5WTHKPo5KTNGUCNQPIYKVJ ƂQQTUNQVUQH RWTEJCUGQHCHNCVLWUVQRRQUKVGYJGTG XKUKVQTUNKMG75UKPIGT5VCEKG%QNNKPUC URCEGCPFC )CTCVIGWUGFVQDG'XGT[FC[YJGP+ SMELL OF RANCID YCKVTGUUVTWEMGTOKZYJQRGTHQTOUC play area. EQOGFQYPVJGUVCKTU+TGOGODGT ITGCU[FKTV[XGTUKQPQHEQWPVT[TQEM YJGTG+COCPFYJGTG+ECOGHTQO BEER WITH AMAZING 4QEMUQWPFKU$CTEGNQPCoU%$)$ Garatge Club (RIP): Pallars, 195 Almogàvers, 116 My house: Pujades and Llacuna SOUNDPROOFING” YYYUCNCTQEMUQWPFEQO

TRINITAT NOVA UGEQPFCT[RNC[GTUKUYJCV[QWoNNƁPF JGTG#PFCNNYKVJQPGKFGCKPOKPF ATENEU POPULAR DE 9BARRIS. VJCVEWNVWTGECPKORTQXGUQEKGV[. %WNVWTCNJ[RGTCEVKXKV[YKVJVJGEKTEWU Portlligat, 11-15. MORE BARRIS CVKVUJGCTVCNQPIYKVJXCTKQWU www.ateneu9b.net

20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com ‘MAKE RURAL WHAT IS URBAN, MAKE URBAN WHAT IS RURAL.’ – ILDEFONS By Eugènia Sendra 5JGYCUDQTPCPFDTGFKP CERDÀ, THE EIXAMPLE ARCHITECT VJG'KZCORNG'USWGTTG

SIMPLE PLEASURES 9GFQPoVJCXGGXGT[VJKPIKPVJG 'KZCORNG'USWGTTGDWVYGFQJCXG Neighbourhood BOO! XCTKQWUUCPEVWCTKGUYJGTG[QWECP associations are HGGF[QWTURKTKV6QTGFKUEQXGTENCUUKE active in this barri. In HKNOUCPFKPCENCUUKEEKPGOCCVVJCV the 1970s they saved The Modelo city prison GPLQ[CUETGGPKPICV%KPGOGU/ÅNKÄU important buildings has been due to close WE MAY NOT HAVE 8KNNCTTQGN ,WUVWRVJGTQCFHTQO from the wrecker’s ball, for years, and the work 2NCÃC7PKXGTUKVCVCPFVJGWPKXGTUKV[ while more recently, to renovate the Ninot EVERYTHING IN THE ICTFGPUYJGTGCTVKUVUUGGMOWUGU social movements market dragged on &KRWVCEKÏ VJGTGoUCURCEG have entered the fray to and on. Then there’s EIXAMPLE ESQUERRE, VJCVJCUDGEQOGCTGHGTGPEGHQT demand the renovation the lack of green CHKEKQPCFQUQHEQPVGORQTCT[CTV of Germanetes, a spaces throughout the BUT WE DO HAVE 6JCVRNCEGKUVJG2WPVU)CNNGT[ 5,500m2 piece of land. neighbourhood – the 'PTKE)TCPCFQU 2C[VJGOCXKUKV few revamped interior VARIOUS SANCTUARIES CPFVJGPGPLQ[UQOGQHVJGDGUVEQHHGG gardens are WHERE YOU CAN FEED KPVJGEKV[LWUVFQYPVJGTQCFCV simply not enough. &GNCETGO 'PTKE)TCPCFQU  YAY! DGHQTGJGCFKPIQWVCETQUUVJGDQTFGT YOUR SPIRIT” 1TTCVJGT%$CNOGU

By Ricard Martín *CRRKN[GZKNGFHTQOVJG 4CXCNVQ2QDNGPQW

MR BROWN STORE (TQOVJGUVTGGVKVNQQMUNKMG[QWTV[RKECN XKFGQUJQRQPGQHVJQUGYKVJVJG A head of studies in a BOO! CWVQOCVGFTGPVCNOCEJKPGU$WVKPUKFG Poblenou state school KVoUCPCORNGURCEGVJCVoUCNNCDQWV confessed to me that EQOKEUPGYCPFUGEQPFJCPFYKVJC in this neighbourhood, Apart from the awful RTGHGTGPEGHQT75UVQTKGUQHVGTTQTCPF unlike what happens in asphalt on Rambla del UWRGTJGTQGU+PCYCUVGNCPFHQTIGGM the rest of the city, the Poblenou, the worst part RQRUWEJCU2QDNGPQWCXKUKVVQ/T tendency is to push the is the lack of cultural $TQYPCNYC[URGTMUWRC5CVWTFC[ best students to go to events in an area of the CHVGTPQQP6JGQYPGTJCUVJGRQYGTVQ public schools rather city that’s more like a OKPFOGNFYKVJJKUENKGPVUHKPFKPIVJG than private ones, to the village. But it’s a small GZCEVDQQMUVJCVUWKVGXGT[QPGoUVCUVG extent that the latter price to pay if I take into CPFGXGPDGVVGTJGFQGUPoVOCMGUOCNN feel marginalised. account it’s only a ten- VCNM#HVGTRGTWUKPIHQTCJCNHJQWTCNN minute walk to the Born [QWJCXGVQFQKURC[KPEKXKNKUGFUKNGPEG and I live in a spacious, DGHQTGECTT[KPIJQOG[QWTPGYN[ sunny spot by the beach. RWTEJCUGFDWPFNGQHLQ[,WUVCUKV YAY! UJQWNFDG Marià Aguiló, 82

TURÓ DE LA PEIRA YGNNRTGRCTGFSWCNKV[RTQFWEVUCV LES CORTS VJGKTJGCFUKUPoV%COR0QWDWVVJKU TGCUQPCDNGRTKEGU6JGSWGWGU TGUVCWTCPVJGCFGFD[EJGH5GTIK LA ESQUINICA.6JKUGCVGT[KUPoV QWVUKFGEQPƁTOVJGHQTOWNCYQTMU. LEKU.9GRTGFKEVCVKOGKUEQOKPI #OQT6JCVoUQWTFTGCOCP[YC[ QWVVQTGXQNWVKQPKUGVJGYQTNFQH Fabra i Puig, 296 YJGPRGQRNGYKNNVJKPMQH.GU%QTVU Joan Güell, 189 VCRCUKVUQPN[QDLGEVKXGKUVQUGTXG ⓣ 93 358 25 19 CPFVJGƁTUVVJKPIVJCVRQRUKPVQ www.restauranteleku.es

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 21 MORE AND MORE BUSINESSES ARE OPENING IN THIS AREA WHERE ITS POBLE-SEC STREETS MAKE YOU FEEL RIGHT AT HOME

THE CLUB OF BARCELONA #V#RQNQ[QWFQPoVJCXGVQYCKVWPVKN VJGYGGMGPFVQJCXGCITGCVGXGPKPI QWVCPFKVoUCVGORNGYJGTGVJG[ GOURMET QTICPKUGVJGOQUVINQTKQWUENWD On a tiny UGUUKQPUKPVJGEKV[0CUV[/QPFC[U UVTGVEJ CDQWV which for ten years has successfully OGVTGU QH OCFGVJGUVCTVQHVJGYGGMDGCTCDNG WE MUSTN’T FORGET %.NGKFCCTG URQRCRQECN[RUG%WRECMGCPF four eateries VJGJGVGTQHTKGPFN[JCRRKPGUUQH GRAN BODEGA SALTÓ CP[VTWGHQQFKG OQPVJN[RCTVKGU5QOQU.CUCPF OWUVXKUKV PAVED THE WAY FOR %CÍQVCU4ÉCU %JWTTQUEQP%JQEQNCVGCTGLWUVCHGY FG)CNKEKC GZCORNGUQHYJCVoUIQKPIQPCV#RQNQ THE UNMISSABLE 2CMVCCPF'N 9JCVoUOQTGCUKVoUVJGENWDVJCV %COCTQVGFG UEJGFWNGUVJGOQUVCPFVJGDGUV 6QO½U EQPEGTVUKPVJGEKV[VJGTGCTGOQTG POBLE-SEC BAR VJCPGPQWIJTGCUQPUVQFGENCTGKVVJG DGUVQHKVUMKPFKP$CTEGNQPC HOTSPOT THAT IS Nou de la Rambla, 113 YYYUCNCCRQNQEQO C/BLAI”

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22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com By M.J. Gómez (TQOUGCVQOQWPVCKPCPF UJGKUPoVNQQMKPIDCEM

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Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 23 LA MERCÈ

Barcelona’s biggest festival turns the whole city into a gigantic party. And the great news M!is, you’re invited too. By Nick Chapman

24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com WRVQƁXGRGQRNGRGTUVQTG[TKUGWRKPHTQPVQH City Hall. The pinya – a base of willing helpers – provides the foundation, as, to the sound of CATALAN pipes and drums, castellers of decreasing size FREE LIVE and age clamber up until the smallest of all, the enxaneta, raises one hand in the air to ecstatic cheers. But it’s not over until everyone is down CUSTOMS again, without the tower collapsing in a heap. On MUSIC Sunday 20 you can see groups from outside Barcelona (12pm, Pl. St Jaume), while Thursday 6JGEKV[ƁNNUYKVJEQPEGTVUHQT Behind all the Mercè fun lies a 24 is the turn of Barcelona colles (‘groups’) La Mercè with both local and whole cultural heritage, stretching (12.30pm, Pl. Sant Jaume). Arrive early to get a international performers. back through local history. good vantage spot. Here’s a selection of what’s on. Street dancing Mercèdansa celebrates danses vives – living folk dances of all kinds that are still performed Towards the end of August the whole of across the region (Sat 19, 1pm & 6pm, Pl. Sant METZ, FRI 18, PL. DELS ÀNGELS Barcelona drags itself away from the beach and Jaume). Catalonia’s national dance, the Their eponymous debut revived all the heads back to work. But as a reward for three sardana, with its sedate circles of hand-holding snarling energy of ’90s grunge and whole weeks of dreary routine, from September dancers, may not offer the wow factor of human attracted comparisons to Nirvana at the 18 to 24, the city throws a seven-day celebration towers, but it’s an essential component of La peak of their powers. Returning this year of epic proportions – all free of charge. The Mercè. There’s a day of sardanes in front of the with their second album II, Toronto, the festival honours the Virgin of Grace – La Mare Cathedral on Sunday 20, with surprisingly trio blast out three-minute chunks of raw de Déu de la Mercè, one of the city’s two athletic dancers in the competition from 11am, sound and punitive riffs. patrons alongside Saint Eulàlia – and it dates and dancing at 1pm and 6pm. More energetic back to 1687, when the city successfully are the bastoners (‘stick dancers’), who set BIG ERIL + FREE SPIRITS BIG BAND, appealed to the Virgin to banish a plague of whirling wooden sticks clacking in their own FRI 18, PL. DE LA CATEDRAL locusts. In gratitude, she was adopted as parade (Sun 20, 10am, Pl. St Jaume). Catalan singer-songwriter Joan Pons, co-patron. Legend has it Saint Eulàlia still aka El Petit de Cal Eril, joins his brand of resents her rival – and likes to send at least one psychedelic folk rock to the 20-piece downpour during the festival to dampen Correfoc Free Spirits Big Band, led by one of the everyone’s spirits. Today, La Mercè is bigger &CPEKPIFGXKNUCOCGNUVTQOQHURCTMUƁTG region’s foremost jazz musicians, David than ever, with hundreds of events, including breathing dragons and troupes of drummers Mengual. A kaleidoscopic fusion of two street theatre, cabaret and circus, and free marching through the smoke: the correfoc nƁTG musical worlds. entry to museums and public buildings. There TWPo KUQPGQHVJGFGƁPKPIKOCIGUQH.C/GTEÄ are concerts galore, with rock, pop, classical Originating in 15th-century devil dances, the VETIVER, SAT 19, PL. DELS ÀNGELS music, and, this year, tango brought by artists EQTTGHQECUYGMPQYKVYCUƁTUVJGNFKP US songwriter Andy Cabic’s band have from the guest city, Buenos Aires. But the heart It’s not for the faint-hearted. Injuries are few woven a hazy path through the West of the celebrations are traditional Catalan and far between, but participants cover up Coast freak folk scene, playing with such festivities, with roots going back centuries. completely to avoid burns. There’s a lower-key luminaries as Devendra Banhart and kids’ correfoc at 6.30pm, while the grown-up Joanna Newsom. Their sixth album, version starts at 8.15pm (Sun 20, Via Complete Strangers, caps a transition to Giants and beasts Laietana). Watch, or take part – if you dare. an electric sound, mingling pop with soft- During La Mercè, heraldic beasts and giants rock melodies. parading through the streets are a common sight. Fantastical papier-mâché and plaster NÚRIA GRAHAM, SAT 19, creations – eagles, bulls and dragons – have PL. COROMINES their origins in medieval processions, as do She’s only 19, but Núria Graham’s debut, the giants. Up to 4m high, and weighing as Bird Eyes (2015), with its stripped-down much as 60kg, they’re carried by a geganter sound, consolidated the success of her hidden under their elaborate costumes, and 2013 demo, First Tracks, establishing spin in a ponderous dance. Every district has her as one of the most promising young its own giants, representing royalty, local local voices. With her electric guitar and characters and tradespeople. You can see the OWUKECNKPƂWGPEGUHTQOGNGEVTQPKECVQ whole cavalcade at the start of the festival (Fri folk, she’s ready to take on the world. 18, 7.30pm, Pl. Sant Jaume), while the beasts step out on Saturday 19 (9pm, Pl. Sant Jaume). BOMBINO, WED 23, PL. DELS ÀNGELS The giants’ procession is popular with families Omara ‘Bombino’ Moctar is a Tuareg (Thu 24, 11am, Pl. Sant Jaume). musician from Agadez, Niger, whose hypnotic guitar lines, blending traditional Saharan folk with Western blues and Human towers rock, propelled 2013’s Nomad to the top In recent years Catalan human towers have of the World Music charts. He’s a reached new heights of popularity, and the charismatic, virtuoso live performer, castells events in Plaça Sant Jaume are some of accompanied by guitar, bass and drums. the busiest in the festival. Crowds hold their breath as towers as high as nine storeys, with

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 25 SO MUCH MORE

From light shows to fairgrounds, La Mercè offers treats for all the senses at venues across the city.

over the world, including Buenos Aires, this year’s invited city. Symbolising the international spirit of the festival, the sculptor Eduardo Cajal has brought a DC9 aircraft in to land, which will also be a venue for performances and audiovisual installations. For kids, there’s a weird and wonderful fairground with puppet shows and the bizarre rides of Antigua and Barbuda. To keep hunger at bay, one of last year’s big attractions is back: food trucks serve up gourmet snacks, from pulled-pork DWPUCPFDWTIGTUVQRGTHGEVƂCVYJKVGU Festival of Light After dark, Ciutadella Park is home to the Festival of Light, with a programme that emphasises avant-garde and new technology. Faces from the crowd are projected onto a giant bust of Narcissus; the stranded DC9 is DCVJGFKPEQNQWTCPFVJGRCTMƁNNUYKVJVJG strains of tango, courtesy of the musical theatre of Tangometropolis, and a nightly Catalan-Argentinian cabaret.

brings the best of home-grown rock and pop, Projections Circus at the castle and cutting-edge international artists, while This recent addition to the programme, At the top of Montjuïc, the open spaces inside Mercèmúsica has rumba, Big Eril, and the animated 3D mappings projected onto the the castle are the venue for international circus supergroup of Catalan musical legends, Jaume façade of City Hall, has become a favourite acts of every description (Sat 19 & Sun 20). On Sisa, Quim Portet and Joan Miquel Oliver (see with the crowds. You can catch them every the main stage, in the Fossat de Santa Eulàlia, previous page for picks). On Bogatell beach, the night of the festival, with repeated showings the Combinat de Circ show brings together lively Mediterràniament stage features local between 8.45pm and 11pm (Sep 18-24, Pl. acrobats, jugglers, trapeze artists, trick cyclists stars Els Amics de les Arts, Oques Grasses and Sant Jaume). CPFFGUETKRVKQPFGH[KPICEVU;QWoNNCNUQƁPF Els Catarres. There are also traditional roving performers, puppet shows and acrobatic habaneres (sea shanties), concerts from the clowning. There’s a kids’ play area with wooden Barcelona Municipal Band, and the Barcelona Ending with a bang! games and plenty of room for picnics, which Symphony and Catalan National Orchestra, as 0QHGUVKXCNYQWNFDGEQORNGVGYKVJƁTGYQTMU makes this a popular event for families – but if well as two large-scale tango milongas. and La Mercè puts on several spectacular the sun’s shining, shade can be in short supply, shows. Impressive displays light up Barceloneta so bring hats, and perhaps a parasol. beach on Friday and Saturday night at 10pm. Ciutadella by day 6JGITCPFƁPCNGKUVJGn2KTQOWUKECNoYJKEJUGVU Throughout La Mercè, the multiple stages of the ‘oohs’ of the crowd and a barrage of starry Music Ciutadella Park host a daily programme of explosions in the sky to a rousing soundtrack of .C/GTEÄƁNNUVJGEKV[YKVJNKXGOWUKEQPUVCIGU street theatre, choreography, urban dance, popular classics and Catalan pop (Thu 24, large and small. Barcelona Acció Musical (BAM) music and cabaret, with performers from all 10pm, Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina).

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com

Tàpies vs. Miró As it’s the 40th anniversary of the Fundació Miró, and the Fundació Tàpies is celebrating 25 years, this is a good time to compare the two iconic Catalan artists. Eugènia Sendra discovers their respective worlds

TERESA TÀPIES VS MIRÓ JOAN FUNDACIÓ GOMIS, HEIRS OF JOAQUIM Antoni Tàpies began in the world of magic, like Miró and Klee, Surrealist, poet, author of paintings viewed as joyful and and as a member of the Catalan artistic group, Dau al Set. He EXPLORING humorous (even though he considered himself ‘tragic’). In later moved to themes of matter and symbolism, creating links THE ABSTRACT the 1920s, Joan Miró showed his dissent with traditional with Eastern mysticism and the philosophy of Ramon Llull. techniques and announced the ‘assasination of painting’.

In 1970, Tàpies was part of a gathering of intellectuals at MEN OF Joan Miró painted the horrors of both World War II and the Montserrat (as was Miró). It inspired him to create monotypes POLITICS Spanish Civil War in ‘Constellations’ and ‘Still Life with Old criticising Franco’s regime, and others honouring Catalonia. Shoe’, respectively. He described the latter as his ‘Guernica’.

He reached the fifth year of a law degree but abandoned THEIR ROUTE Miró studied accounting, but had an artist’s vocation. He trained those studies to dedicate himself to painting. Tàpies was TO ART at the Llotja art school, Acadèmia de Francesc Galí and Cercle self-taught, and in 1946 he opened his first studio. de Sant Lluc, where he met Joan Prats, his friend and promoter.

Tàpies’s career mainly developed in Campins, in the Montseny REFUGEES Miró said that some of his favourite colours came from Mont- area of Catalonia; the artist had his studio there for 40 years. Roig del Camp (), where he painted ‘La Masia’ (1920).

Among his collection of three-dimensional objects and pieces SCULPTURE In the 1950s, the artist started to explore ceramics with the created in stone, concrete and bronze, is the ‘Sock’ rejected (AND Artigas family. Joan Gardy Artigas was the co-creator of ‘Woman by the MNAC (a smaller version is in the Fundació Tàpies). CONTROVERSY) and Bird’, the monument Miró gave to Barcelona in 1982.

Tàpies was close friends with Joan Brossa, leader of Dau al FRIENDS OF Miró was friends with Tristan Tzara, Paul Éluard and J.V. Foix, Set – together they wrote books and created theatre scenery. POETS among others, and he illustrated their poems. Some said He also worked with Jacques Dupin and Pere Gimferrer. that the artist was closer to literature than to the art critics.

In 1990, a former publishing house became the venue for his THEIR ‘I’m not interested in a mausoleum,’ Miró said. He wanted to Foundation. Tàpies realised his dream of creating a ‘temple MUSEUMS create a living contemporary art centre and commissioned Josep from where the spirit of the age will shine’, as Brossa wrote. Lluís Sert to build it. That was over 40 years ago.

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 29 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] Shopping & Style @eugeniasendra The secrets of wet plate collodion Señor Archer is a studio in the Raval that uses traditional chemical photographic techniques to create 19 th - centur y - st yle por trait shots. By Eugènia Sendra

Nowadays photography is value it had in earlier eras, accessible to all, with practically combining the work with everyone having a (mobile phone) commissions as a photojournalist. camera in their pocket. There are a ‘This is a more artisanal photo, lot of implications of this, one of taken slowly, with exhaustive which is that a certain authenticity control by the photographer,’ says in the process has been lost. Gamazo as he invites me to sit in Lucky, then, that there are still front of a camera from the 1850s. If romantic ventures such as Señor you do a session with him, he’ll Archer. At this photographic make you pose, focus the lens on portrait studio in the Raval you and, when everything’s ready to neighbourhood, the key is a his satisfaction, move to the lab to revolutionary chemical element impregnate the aluminium plate from the 19th century that helped where the photo will go with the democratise photography at the collodion solution – the time: wet plate collodion, the mix of photographer gets his hands dirty, nitrocellulose, alcohol and ether but that’s part of the fun, Gamazo that is used to fix photographic says. Next he immerses the plate in silver nitrate to make it sensitive, the final step before introducing it into the camera. He has the sitter I like to think assume the agreed pose, calls for concentration, uncovers the lens about what’s and keeps it open for 15 seconds. ‘I going on inside like to think about what’s going on inside the person during this time, the person while I and what effect it will have on the take the photo photo.’ The operation is completed under the red light of the lab. The images. British sculptor Frederick plate swims in a potassium cyanide Scott Archer invented the process solution, which develops the in the mid-1800s, but he negative. Suddenly, like magic, your (intentionally) never patented it face appears in black and white – and died a pauper – that’s why from a distance it could almost be photographer Alberto Gamazo one of your ancestors. Gamazo, wanted to pay homage to him in who’s keen to talk about what he’s this Barcelona space. doing at every step, cleans the Gamazo taught himself the plate with water and prepares to fix process of digital photography, but and then digitise the image. decided he didn’t want to contribute The result is surprising – Señor to the trend of creating single-use Archer photos are static, images; the alternative was to MARIA DIAS unscripted. Gamazo explains that adopt traditional methods. The wet the collodion doesn’t interpret plate collodion process surprised OTHER PLACES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS colours in the usual way and it also him, and motivated him to take his accentuates imperfections on the project further – last year, he face. It’s ideal for anyone looking for opened his studio inspired by the NOSTÀLGIC IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT a portrait with personality, and/or one that photographer Michael As well as selling all manner of This shrine to Polaroid, the original fans of photographic processes. Shindler set up in San Francisco in cameras and related items (books, instant photo camera, features 2011. Gamazo’s aim is to show film, , etc.), this Gràcia shop vintage machines and original SEÑOR ARCHER what photography was like when he also hires out Fuji Instax cameras for accessories along with books and Paloma, 15 (Raval). was a child and recover the artistic a day or weekend. Goya, 18. magazines. Tantarantana, 16. www.senorarcher.com

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Shopping & Style

Object of desire

CAPTIVATING PIECES When designer Isabel Uribe was put in charge of jewellery at Carolina Herrera, she was dazzled by the world of top-end accessories. In 2013, she launched her own jewellery line, Aloló. Find it at Passage, Abat Samsó, 7. Your style On-trend accessories feature double knots. But not all knots are created equal. By Eugènia Sendra

COMPACT This leather clutch from Spanish label Malababa can be transformed into a shoulder bag, and the yellow trim is a bonus (€240). Argentería, 66.

COTTON TIES A really special gift Among her many skills, Mexican designer Tanya It’s a truth universally Aguiñiga dyes then weaves acknowledged that some of cotton, resulting in necklaces the best souvenirs are bought such as this one, made to in museum shops. And if it’s not, order in Los Angeles (€230). then it certainly should be www.tanyaaguiniga.com because, while T-shirts with rude slogans and mass-produced decorative items might seem like a good idea at the moment of WRAPPED UP purchase, their sheen fades Jeffrey Campbell is quickly (ie, as you take the bag). behind these striking Happily, Barcelona is well- they also stock first editions, slip-ons (€138). Find equipped with both interesting magazines and fanzines. If his creations at Au museums and excellent you want something less Revoir Cinderella, accompanying stores. At the literary, the MACBA Store Laie Comerç, 23. MACBA, for example, they recently has merchandise related to its re-opened their shop, a branch of collection and exhibitions, as well the Laie, which sells gifts and as pieces designed by artists from books, giving it a starring role at the the local Raval area. heart of the building. You’ll find –Hannah Pennell over 4,000 tomes with a focus on contemporary art, but also themes MACBA STORE LAIE including critical thinking, music Pl. dels Àngels, 1. and illustration. On the shelves www.macba.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 31 Shopping & Style Your inspiration Bringing BCN 'PTKE/CTVÉRC[UVTKDWVGVQEGNGDTKVKGUKPJKUƁTUVEQNNGEVKQPYJKEJ  to the world won him a Best New Designer award. By Eugènia Sendra SHOP OF THE MONTH

Designer Enric Martí has travelled a world between reality and fantasy where celebrities become gods, and now his feet are touching the ITQWPFQPEGOQTGJKUƁTUV collection won the Best New Designer prize at the Modafad Barcelona Fashion Awards 2015, and he’s prepared the project he’ll present at 080 Barcelona Fashion, but he says it’s too soon to think about his own THE WORSHIP label. He wants to keep Wool, suede, velvet and silk are the learning and playing with stars of Martí’s collection. Five of the Simply styled trainers in an different materials (with the looks can be seen at the exhibition appealing variety of colours and likes of Josep Font and Brits ‘The best design of the year’ at the made of stone-washed leather, it’s Agi&Sam), scouring carpet DHUB Design Hub (dhub.cat). the initials of Barcelona on their shops, and dreaming about tongues that have turned these how to use the metres of latex shoes into ambassadors for the he brought from London, from city across the globe. And the fact a shop frequented by music that they’re worn by well-known stars who feed his creative faces from the sporting world has universe. He doesn’t fear made them into a coveted item. colour, tailoring or traditional But the story of BCN Brand doesn’t techniques such as end there: Pablo Caralaps, a one- embroidery, which he learnt time publicist and designer who during the bus journeys to his heads up this project, describes design college. ‘Fashion is in the brand’s reception and its rapid free fall, and experts are opting growth (taking part in the 080 to return to handmade pieces, A FIXATION Barcelona Fashion fair meant that to haute couture,’ says Martí. A Martí recalls the jellyfi sh effect of the company was forced to expand quest into the inaccessible has led a skirt shown in Dior’s winter 2010 its product range). him to design for a woman who haute couture collection. Rihanna In the shop-showroom in the wants to feel special, a woman like wore John Galliano’s creation to the Born neighbourhood, you’ll find the late fashionista Isabella Blow. 2011 Brit Awards. trainers, T-shirts, swimsuits and other accessories (motorbike www.enric-marti.com helmets, belts and sunglasses), and soon they’ll also stock fire extinguishers for the kitchen and a GET THE LOOK! foldable bike, which they’ve just launched. Here everything exudes the brand’s raison d’être: an WITHOUT EXCESS unconditional love for Barcelona Loyal to his urban style but austere, reflected in a friendly and colourful Martí wears clothes from Topman. format that’s transmitted to the Bergara, 1. products through prints imitating mosaic tiles, the sea shapes of ORIGINAL PIECES BIOGRAPHIES Antoni Gaudí’s paving tiles, and He also favours the multibrand When a person appeals to three unmistakable letters. –E.S. space, Urban Outfi tters, for buying Martí, he does all he can to indie labels. Plaça Catalunya, 4. fi nd out about them. One of the BCN BRAND lives that has most captivated him Canvis Nous, 11 (Born). MARIA DIAS is that of Alexander McQueen. strollinbcn.com

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 33 Things to Do Welcome to market city Barcelona’s food markets are world-famous. Maria Junyent asks some of the cit y’s chefs YJGTGVJG[IQVQƁNNVJGKTDCUMGVU

Barcelona takes pride in the ƁTUVCTTKXCNUQHGCEJUGCUQPCPF quality, variety and scope of its VJGƁPGUVSWCNKV[RTQFWEVU food markets. In total, there are 39, selling local produce as well La Rambla, 89 (Ciutat Vella). as delicacies from the farthest- www.boqueria.info ƂWPIEQTPGTUQHVJGINQDGsHTGUJ pre-prepared or even cooked and ready to eat. Equally important are Carles Abellan is the the stallholders, who know how to chef at Comerç 24 build relationships with their customers. Barcelona has some Carles Abellan’s favourite markets of the best chefs in the world, and are La Concepció and La Boqueria, that’s at least in part because they the two that lie closest to his have markets that can match their kitchen at Comerç 24 (Comerç, ambitions. But which are their  .C$QSWGTKCKUYJGTGJGƁPFU favourites? heaven on Earth. If he’s looking for ƁUJJGIQGUUVTCKIJVVQ4KECTF Engracia and Sons, where the Carles Gaig is the chef ECVEJHTQOVJG$CTEGNQPGVCƁUJ at Restaurant Gaig market arrives every afternoon at 5pm. If it’s meat he’s after, ‘It’s the relationship between the he heads for Cansaladeria customer and the stallholder that F. Salvador, where he says you’ll makes Barcelona’s markets so CNYC[UƁPFSWCNKV[HCTOGFRQWNVT[ successful. In contrast to other and feathered game. When wild supply systems, you can talk mushrooms are in season, he’s directly to the person who’s a faithful client of Bolets Petràs. selling you a particular product.’ n'ZVTCQTFKPCT[osVJGTGoUPQQVJGT Carles Gaig remembers the word for it. vendors’ cries from the days when La Concepció he used to go shopping with his Aragó, 311 (Eixample Dret). mother in the market in Horta as a www.laconcepcio.com boy. ‘Just look at these squid! Green beans, freshly picked, Maria!’ He explains that you go to Romain Fornell is the VJGOCTMGVnVQƁPFGZCEVN[VJCV chef at Café Emma kind of thing: wild mushrooms fresh from the forest, in season, Once again, La Boqueria is at the ;QWoNNƁPFOQTG VJGƁTUVRGCUKPURTKPI'XGT[VJKPI top of the list. ‘It’s inevitable to talk VJKPIUVQFQ we chefs look for’. You’ll bump about La Boqueria,’ says French CTQWPFVJGEKV[CV into him at La Boqueria, a short chef Romain Fornell of Café Emma VKOGQWVEQO walk into the centre from (Pau Claris, 142). ‘It’s a place to DCTEGNQPC 4GUVCWTCPV)CKI %ÎTUGIC s OGGVsHWNNQHNKHG6JGCVOQURJGTG he buys game from the the contact with the people, the Capdevilas at Distribucions bars and Juanito’s smile at Pinotxo Avinova, always hunting out the always get the day off to a good

34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol

start.’ When he’s not at La Boqueria he browses the stalls at the Mercat de Galvany, near Café 6WTÏ 6GPQT8KÍCU YJKEJJG also runs. He says it’s a small but interesting market, with more sophisticated products, perhaps because of its well-heeled, uptown clientele. Whatever the reason, he’s fascinated by the rabbit ribs JGƁPFUVJGTG Mercat del Galvany Santaló, 65 (Sarrià-Sant Gervasi). www.mercatgalvany.es

Pere Moreno is the chef at La Cuina del DO

Working from Hotel DO on Plaça Reial (No.1), La Boqueria is barely a stone’s throw away, and Pere Moreno looks over the stalls once a week. But if he has to nominate a favourite market, it would be Santa Caterina where, from a young age, he sold fruit and vegetables with his brother. Santa Caterina Av. Francesco Cambó, 16 (Ciutat Vella). www.mercatsantacaterina.com

IN THE MARKET

GOING GREEN From September 15, Barcelona’s market traders will start charging for plastic bags, a move that will bring them into line with many of the city’s supermarkets.

TAPAS NIGHT If you want an alternative market experience, head to the Mercat de Felip II (Sant Andreu) on September 26 for tapas from 8pm to midnight. www.mercatdefelipsegon.com

MARKET TRAILS Discover a new way to see Barcelona by following one of the four market routes created by the Institute of Barcelona Municipal Markets. www.bcn.cat/mercatsmunicipals

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 35 Things to Do

schedule. Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm. Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia Sat, Sun, public holidays 10.30am- blau or bus 196. Tours Day by day 1.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced). 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| Information and sales: 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| Kids 5GG6WG (, 6-9). M: Tourist Information Points and 6QWTUQH)CWFÉoUOQFGTPKUVC Av. Tibidabo (FGC). bcnshop.com ECUVNGQPVJGUNQRGUQH6KDKFCDQ .C2GFTGTCKU (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Follow the clues to travel back FREE This activity is free (FGC). English: Tue to Sun 11am. in time and discover what life Sports €16. €12.80 (reduced) was like in the building 100 * The dates of league matches years ago. (GTOÉ8GNG\6TQRJ[sJQWT may be moved forward or back 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, /QVQT4CEG one day, depending on TV 6QWTVJKUGODNGOCVKEDWKNFKPIQH L5) and Provença (FGC). Day and night event at local broadcast schedules Catalan modernisme. Reservation essential: reserves@ circuit. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: lapedrera.com Circuit Barcelona Catalunya (Ctra. Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours de Granollers a Parets km 2, Tuesday 1 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Montmeló). Sep 4-6. More info and Thursday 3 timetables: www.circuitcat.com. Human towers 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| Enjoy a range of fun activities for all Tours %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP ages at Barcelona’s historical Film See the Colla castellera de theme park. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). .KEGWQRGTCJQWUG Barcelona rehearse. Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor 5GG6WG(La Rambla 51-59). M: /GECN#KTYGKTFQURGEKCN (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot (L1,L2). Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia Liceu (L3). .CUVQHVJGUGCNHTGUEQUJQTVƁNO €24.20; reduced €20.50. 7.30pm. blau or bus 196. For more details screenings for this year. Reservation needed: bcnshop.com see page 41. .C2GFTGTCD[FC[ (Av. Francesc 5GG6WG (Provença, 261-265). M: Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). ..()% &QQTUROƁNO Tours Sports 9.30pm. poble-espanyol.com

5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CT +9QOCP9QTNF9KPPGT Night-time tours TQQHVQR Tournament Saturday 5 Guided tours to the top of this New contest on clay for up-and- 5GETGV$CUKNKECFGN2K historic church for great city views. coming female tennis players that is Evening visits to the 14th-century Human towers (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume RCTVQHVJG+6(2TQ%KTEWKV Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi. I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm (every Club Esportiu HIspano Francès (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Thu, Fri FREE 2GTHQTOCPEGKPVJG hour, last entry 4pm). Sat, Sun, (Jorge Manrique, 15-19) M: 9.20pm (English). Sat 9.50pm $QTFGVCPGKIJDQWTJQQF public holidays 11am to 5pm (every Montbau (L3). Until Sep 6. www. (English). €19 (general). €16 (in 6YQNQECNECUVGNNGTITQWRUDWKNF hour, last entry 4pm).€10 (general). cdhispanofr.com. advance). bcnshop.com or www. their fabulous towers. €8 (reduced). Booking: www. adsentiabarcelona.com. (Carrer Súria). 6pm. riostabarcelona.com. Wednesday 2 .C2GFTGTCD[FC[ Friday 4 Al fresco Enjoy one of the most spectacular Human towers buildings in Barcelona. Human towers FREE 9GGMGPFCTVHCKT (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP Over 40 artists show their work for (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Mon- See the Can Musons group of %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP sale in two pretty squares. Sun, 9am-8pm (last entry 7.30pm). Gràcia rehearse. (Alzina, 7). M: See Wed 2. (Alzina, 7). M: Lesseps (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Pi, s/n). M: From €20.50 Lesseps (L3). €24.20; reduced (L3). Liceu (L3). Sat 11am-8pm; Sun €20.50. 8pm. Reservation needed: 11am-2pm. .KEGWQRGTCJQWUG bcnshop.com. Discover Barcelona’s glorious Night-time tours Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia opera house, carefully restored 6CMGCVTKRQPCDGCWVKHWNN[ CHVGTCFGXCUVCVKPIƁTGKP Tours )CWFÉoU2GFTGTC6JG1TKIKPU restored three-masted schooner. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Spectacular night-time event that Maritime Museum (Av. de les Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC includes rooftop videomapping, Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). monument screenings in different parts of Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids. 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVCOQPWOGPV| 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau (Sant the building and a glass of cava. Once a working hospital, this Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, FREE )WKFGFVQWTQH(WPGTCN network of pavilions was designed Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). L5) and Provença (FGC). Daily %CTTKCIG%QNNGEVKQP D[.NWÉU&QOGPGEJK/QPVCPGT RORO VKEMGVQHƁEGQRGPU Unique collection of historical (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| 8pm). Until Sep 12, Fri, Sat funeral carriages. (Mare de Déu del Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Tours in 5GG6WG(Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). RORO VKEMGVQHƁEG Port, 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). various languages; consult for Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor opens 9pm). Info: bcnshop.com. Every Sat at noon.

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Things to Do

Kids Sunday 6

+VoUUWTRTKUKPIDWVKVoUUEKGPEG Al fresco Discover unexpected properties of common and not-so-common FREE %%%$TQQHVQRVGTTCEG materials. CosmoCaixa (Isaac See Barcelona from the top of this Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). city centre building. Until Sep 10.Daily 10am-8pm. (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, Activity included in entry fee. L2) & Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). First Sunday of the month. 11am-8pm. +PVGTCEVKXGXKUKVVQn6QEC6QECo Find out how to protect the FREE $CNWCTF)CTFGPU different ecosystems of our Renovated gardens behind the planet. CosmoCaixa (Isaac only remaining gateway of the Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo city’s medieval walls. (Av. de les (FGC). For kids 5 and above. Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes cosmocaixa.com/agenda (L3). 1st and 3rd Sun. 11am- 2pm. %NKM Hands-on lab where kids can make VJGKTƁTUVUEKGPVKƁEFKUEQXGTKGU Tours CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). For 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC kids 3 and above. monument $QQM[QWT cosmocaixa.com/ HCXQWTKVG 5GG6WGHospital Sant agenda restaurants at Pau (Sant Antoni Maria VKOGQWVEQO Claret, 167). M: Sant Bubble Planetarium DCTEGNQPC Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). A space dedicated to getting kids interested in 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC space and the world of 5GG6WG(Palau de la Música, astronomy. CosmoCaixa (Isaac 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). For children 5 and above. 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: 6QWEJVJGOQQP Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Space workshop for children. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: &KUEQXGTVJGUEWNRVWTGICTFGP Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Daily. €4. Chance to enjoy guided tours of another part of Poble Espanyol. .GVoUOCMGCICOG (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). Create your own game, similar to M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). From ‘Hungry Hungry Hippos’. Poble 10.30am. Viisits 11am, noon, 1pm. Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Included with entry fee. poble- Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; espanyol.com FGC). From 10.30am. Included with entry fee. poble-espanyol. FREE)WKFGFVQWTQH2QDNGPQW com %GOGVGT[ Explore one of Barcelona’s historical cemeteries. Tours (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 1st and 3rd Sun 10.30am El Born Centre Cultural (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish). Guided tours of site with 18th- century remains discovered below a former market. Sports (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Cursa Barça Sat, Sun 12.30pm, Wed, Sun 4QCFTCEGVJCVUVCTVUCPFƁPKUJGU 5.30pm in Spanish; Sat, Sun in the iconic FC Barcelona 4.30pm in English; Sat, Sun noon stadium. in French. Spanish: €8.80; English Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n) and French; €10.56. M: Les Corts (L3). fcbarcelona.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 37 Things to Do

Provença (FGC). 10am. €8.50. For Catalan customs in the Born (Pl. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Kids children aged 5-13. Prior del Born, noon). reservation necessary: reserves@ www.gencat.cat +VoUUWTRTKUKPIDWVKVoUUEKGPEG lapedrera.com. Al fresco See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Tours FREE 9GGMGPFCTVHCKT Charity event See Sat 5. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del +PVGTCEVKXGXKUKVVQn6QEC6QECo 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Sat, Sun. See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac %JCTKV[GXGPKPICVVJG.KEGW 5GG6WG (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). A fund-raising dinner is hosted on M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia the stage of the famous opera See Sat 5. Maritime Museum (Av. Bubble Planetarium house. 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| de les Drassanes, s/n). M: See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Drassanes (L3). Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 8pm. €123. liceubarcelona.cat Tibidabo (FGC). FREE )WKFGFVQWTQH(WPGTCN 6QWEJVJGOQQP %CTTKCIG%QNNGEVKQP See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Thursday 10 Kids See Sat 5. (Mare de Déu del Port, Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). Daily. €4. Tours .GVoUDGCTEJKVGEVU Hands-on workshop at La Pedrera, 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVCOQPWOGPV| using all kinds of materials to Sunday 13 Monday 7 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau (Sant TGETGCVG)CWFÉoUYQTM Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, Human towers Tours Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). L5) and Provença (FGC). Prior reservation essential: reserves@ 2GTHQTOCPEGKPVJG5CITCFC .KEGWQRGTCJQWUG 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR lapedrera.com. (COÉNKCPGKIJDQWTJQQF 5GG6WG(La Rambla 51-59). M: 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa Maria, Watch three local groups build Liceu (L3). 1). M: Jaume I (L4). astounding human towers. Night-time tours Sagrada Família. M: Sagrada 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVCOQPWOGPV| Família (L2,L5). Noon. 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau (Sant Night-time tours )CWFÉoU2GFTGTC6JG1TKIKPU Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant See Fri 4. (Provença, 261). M: Poblenou Festa Major Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). 6JG$QTPD[0KIJV Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). 6YQNQECNJWOCPVQYGTUITQWRU Explore local archaelogical show off their skills. Parc del Centre remains. Includes a game, a glass 5GETGV$CUKNKECFGN2K del Poblenou. M: Poblenou (L4). Tuesday 8 of Moritz beer and a tapa. 5GG6JWSanta Maria del Pi 12.30pm. Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tours 12). M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). Wed, Thu 9pm. €12. Tours 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC Saturday 12 5GG6WG (Palau de la Música, 5GETGV$CUKNKECFGN2K FREE)WKFGFVQWTQH/QPVLWËE 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 5GG6JWSanta Maria del Pi Tours %GOGVGT[ Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 8KUKV$CTEGNQPCoUJKNNUKFGITCXG[CTF El Born Cultural Centre El Born Cultural Centre which is as much an art museum See Sat 5. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: /0#%6GTTCEG See Sat 5. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: CUCƁPCNTGUVKPIRNCEG Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). Once the Catalan National Museum Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu of Art closes its doors, you can still del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; enjoy the beautiful surrounds by 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun 11am Wednesday 9 taking advantage of the new 5GG6WG(Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). (Catalan) and 11.15am (Spanish). cocktail bar on its terrace. Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Human towers (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia (L1,L3). Thu-Sat 8pm-midnight. blau or bus 196. Sports %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP www.museunacional.cat See Wed 2. (Alzina, 7). M: Lesseps VJ.C/GTEÄ4CEG (L3). Kids 10-km road race that is part of the Friday 11 annual La Mercè festivities. +PFKCPC5VQPGUNGVoUGZRNQTG Starts: Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Kids Traditions See Wed 9. La Pedrera (Provença, M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). 9.30am. 261). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and www.bcn.cat +PFKCPC5VQPGUNGVoUGZRNQTG .C&KCFC Provença (FGC). Discover the hidden corners of La Catalonia marks its national day Pedrera in an adventure that takes YKVJCRWDNKEJQNKFC[8CTKQWU .GVoUOCMGCICOG Football in the whole building. (Provença, activities take place across the city, See Sat 5. Poble Espanyol (Av. 261). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and including a display of traditional Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: *.GCIWGHKZVWTG4%&

38 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Things to Do

'URCP[QNs4GCN/CFTKF%( monument Espanyol take on one of the 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau world’s best clubs. Date and (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). time TBC. www.rcdespanyol.com. M: Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). Estadi Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà. Thursday 17 Tours Monday 14 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF Tours 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC monument| 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau Night-time tours (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). /0#%6GTTCEG 5GG6JW (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1,L3). Tuesday 15 5GETGV$CUKNKECFGN2K Tours 5GG6JW(Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC 5GG6WG (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Friday 18

.KEGWQRGTCJQWUG Traditions 5GG6WG(La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). .C/GTEÄ$%0(GUVC/CLQT 6JGEKV[QH$CTEGNQPCRC[UVTKDWVG to its patron saint Mercè with a Human towers week of activities.See page 24. Various venues. Sep 18-24. www. %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP bcn.cat See the Colla Castellera de Sants, Cal Borinot rehearse their towers. (Comtes de Bell-lloc, 45). M: Sants- Saturday 19 Estació (L3,L5). €24.20; reduced €20.50. 8pm. Prior reservation Tours necessary: bcnshop.com. 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| 5GG6WG(Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Wednesday 16 Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + Human towers tramvia blau or bus 196.

%CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP .C2GFTGTCD[FC[ See Wed 2. (Alzina, 7). M: 5GG6WG(Provença, 261-265). Lesseps (L3). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC) Tours Al fresco 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC 5GG6WG (Palau de la Música, Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Sat 5. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC Drassanes (L3).

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 39 Things to Do

FREE #TVUJQYKP2NCÃC5CPV 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). FREE)WKFGFVQWTQH/QPVLWËE ,QUGR1TKQN 5GG6WG(Palau de la Música, %GOGVGT[ See Sat 5. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Sun 13. Cementiri de Montjuïc Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Sat, Sun. Sport (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). FREE )WKFGFVQWTQH(WPGTCN Tuesday 22 %5+15JQY,WORKPI %CTTKCIG%QNNGEVKQP Annual equestrian event See Sat 5. (Mare de Déu del Port, Tours organised by the Reial Club de Football 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). Polo. Sep 24-27. More info: www. 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| csiobarcelona.com. *.GCIWGHKZVWTG(% 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: $CTEGNQPCs7&.CU2CNOCU Sports Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Messi, Suárez and Neymar lead Friday 25 the attack on the Canarian team in (+#9QTNF4CNN[ETQUU 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC their latest home game in this 6JGEQORGVKVKQPTGCEJGU5RCKPHQT monument| year’s Spanish league. VJGƁTUVVKOG 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau (Sant Tours Date and time TBC. For more info: Circuit Barcelona Catalunya (Ctra. Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant www.fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou de Granollers a Parets, Montmeló). Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Sep 19-20. www.rallycrossrx.com 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Corts (L3). Human towers Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Sunday 20 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR Monday 28 %CUVGNNGTURTCEVKEGUGUUKQP| 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa Maria, Tours 5GG6WG(Comtes de Bell-lloc, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Tours 45). M: Sants-Estació (L3,L5). FREE )WKFGFVQWTQH2QDNGPQW 2CNCWFGNC/ÖUKEC %GOGVGT[ Sport 5GG6WG $QQM[QWT ( See Sun 6. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Wednesday 23 HCXQWTKVG Palau de la Música, 4-6). Llacuna (L4). 0CETC'WTQRGCPU restaurants at M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Tours International contest VKOGQWVEQO FREE $CNWCTF)CTFGPU for catamarans DCTEGNQPC .KEGWQRGTCJQWUG See Sun 6. (Av. de les Drassanes, El Born Cultural Centre organised by various 5GG6WG s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). See Sat 5. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: local sailing organisations. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). Starting-point: Parc del Fòrum. (L3). Sep 25-Oct 3. Football .KEGWQRGTCJQWUG 5GG6WG(La Rambla 51-59). M: Tuesday 29 *.GCIWGHKZVWTG Liceu (L3). Saturday 26 (%$CTEGNQPCs.GXCPVG7& Tours Your chance to see the mega-team Al fresco in action. Date and time TBC. For Football 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR more info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). *.GCIWGHKZVWTG4%& See Sat 5. Maritime Museum (Av. M: Jaume I (L4). M: Les Corts (L3). 'URCP[QNs8CNGPEKC%( de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Another opportunity to see Drassanes (L3). 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC Espanyol team on the pitch. monument Kids Date and time TBC. Info: www. FREE #TVUJQYKP2NCÃC5CPV 5GG6WGHospital Sant Pau (Sant rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Cornellà - ,QUGR1TKQN Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Bubble Planetarium El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. See Sat 5. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Sat, Sun. Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Cornellà. FREE )WKFGFVQWTQH(WPGTCN Wednesday 30 6QWEJVJGOQQP %CTTKCIG%QNNGEVKQP See Sat 5. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Thursday 24 See Sat 5. (Mare de Déu del Port, Tours Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery) Night-time tours 6KDKFCDQVJGOGRCTM| 5GG6WG(Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Monday 21 6JG$QTPD[0KIJV Sunday 27 Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor 5GG6JW Born Cultural Centre Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia Tours (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & Tours blau or bus 196. Barceloneta (L4). 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CTTQQHVQR 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF| El Born Cultural Centre 5GG6WG (Plaça de Santa Maria, 5GETGV$CUKNKECFGN2K 5GG6WG (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. See Sat 5. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: 1). M: Jaume I (L4). 5GG6JW(Santa Maria del Pi Tibidabo (FGC). Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4).

40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Sights

Architecture €7.50 (reduced). 5CPV2CWOQFGTPKUVC A fascinating interactive journey )CWFÉoUJKFFGPVTGCUWTGKUC monument that uses 4-D technology to take $CUÉNKECFGNC UNESCO World Heritage Site (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: [QWKPUKFG)CWFÉoUWPKXGTUG 5CITCFC(COÉNKC inside Colònia Güell, a planned Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada textile factory and residential Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun, 2QDNG'URCP[QN Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. area 20 mins from Barcelona. public hols 10am-2.30pm. Self- (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 9am-8pm. Guided tour/with guided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced). 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 audio guide: €19.50. )TCP6GCVTGFGN.KEGW Guided tour: €14. €9.80 (reduced). 508 63 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue- Barcelona’s most famous (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu First Sunday of month and under Thu Sun 9am-midnight; Fri 9am- NCPFOCTMDGIWPD[#PVQPK)CWFÉ (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided 16s free. More info: www. 3am; Sat 9am-4am. €12. €7, KPCPFWPƁPKUJGFVQVJKU tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. santpaubarcelona.org. €8.40 (reduced). FC[6KEMGVUCNGUJGNRHWPFVJG €14. 30-minute tour: €6. 6QWTVJGDWKNFKPIUCPFITQWPFUQH Built for the 1929 Barcelona ongoing construction of ’s www.liceubarcelona.cat Hospital Sant Pau, one of the Expo, Poble Espanyol is an most popular tourist attraction. 8KUKVQPGQHVJGYQTNFoUITGCV world’s largest open-air museum on Montjuïc opera houses: discover the monuments, recently restored with replicas of streets, squares $CUÉNKECFG impressive concert hall and and opened to the public. and buildings from all over 5CPVC/CTKCFGN/CT exclusive private rooms that Spain. Regularly hosts live (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: make this one of Barcelona’s 6QTTG$GNNGUIWCTF music events. Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. most emblematic buildings. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm, 4.30pm- (FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. Tue-Sun 6KDKFCDQ#OWUGOGPV2CTM 8pm; Sun and public holidays .C2GFTGTC 10am-3pm. Closed Mon. (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus 10.30am-1.30pm, 4.30pm-8pm. (Provença, 261–265). M: Panoramic tour (audio guide to Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça Wheelchair access. Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 exterior, remains of Martin the Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC) Known as the ‘cathedral of the 138. 9am-8.30pm. Last Humane’s palace, audiovisual + Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + Ribera’, this church is one of the admission: 8pm. €20.50. centre): €7. Guided tour (tower Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 most perfect examples of €16.50 (reduced). exterior and interior, roof terrace): 79 42. For info and times: www. Gothic architecture, thanks to Many Barcelona residents €16; in English – Sat, Sun 11am. tibidabo.cat. Sky Walk: €12.70. the harmony of its proportions TGICTFVJKUCU)CWFÉoUVTWG Discover the modernista castle Children under 120cm: €7.80. and its inherent serenity. OCUVGTRKGEG6JGTQQHVGTTCEG VJCV#PVQPK)CWFÉDWKNVCVVJG Amusement park: €28.50. represents modernista HQQVQH6KDKFCFQOQWPVCKP Children under 120cm: €10.30. $CUÉNKECFG CTEJKVGEJVWTGCVKVUƁPGUV'PLQ[ 6KDKFCDQKUQPGQHVJGQNFGUV 5CPVC/CTKCFGN2K the spectacular design at night Leisure theme parks in the world, and (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) & YKVJn)CWFKoU2GFTGTC6JG features both classic rides and Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. Origins’, a tour and rooftop #KTGFG$CTEGNQPC brand-new attractions with Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 5pm- videomapping featuring multiple Arab Baths spectacular views over the city. 8pm. €4. €3 (reduced). Guided screenings accompanied by (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: tour (including belltower): Sat music. Daily 9pm-11pm (ticket Barceloneta, Jaume I (L4). T. 93 2QTV#XGPVWTC noon (advanced booking QHƁEGQRGPURO 7PVKN5GR /QP(TKƁTUVGPVT[ (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. required). €12. €8 (reduced). Fri, Sat 10.15pm-11pm (ticket 10am; last entry between 10pm Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port One of Barcelona’s grandest QHƁEGQRGPURO  and midnight; Sat, Sun and days Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For Gothic churches, with great before public holidays: last entry prices and times contact tourist views from its belltower. Palau Güell between midnight and 2am. QHƁEGUQTXKUKVRQTVCXGPVWTCGU (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: www.airedebarcelona.com Located an hour south of Casa Batlló Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 6JGUG#TCDDCVJUTGXKXGVJG Barcelona, this theme park has (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. ancient tradition of bathing as six zones covering 119 Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 Last admission: 7pm. Closed a form of relaxation, in a hectares, with 30 attractions, 06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50 Mon except public hols. gorgeous setting. 100 daily processions, 75 (reduced). Last admission: 8pm. €12. €8 (reduced). places to eat, and 27 shops. More info: www.casabatllo.cat. $WKNVD[)CWFÉKPVJGNCVGVJ $CTEGNQPC7TDCP(QTGUV 6JGUGPUWCNKV[CPFJCTOQP[QHKVU century, this palace belonged to (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El $CTEGNQPC

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synchrotron, which is housed at Barcelona Autonomous University. It explains part of Vidal’s curiosity about ultraprecision and those things that happen without our realising them, things that, he says, we don’t see until a bigger change takes place.

Between art and science It’s no coincidence that the show includes a poplar cut into seven pieces of similar volume: recording the length, diametre and depth of the tree meant five days of work. ‘We became so familiar with that tree, we knew every part of it by heart,’ says Vidal. He adds that the objective wasn’t to scan

Increasingly I want to know less about what lies between art and science the poplar but rather to demonstrate its geometric complexity. This procedure of exploration and discovery can also be seen in the drawings that complete the exhibition, dedicated to the fragments and lines of trees, and the randomness that makes them real. ‘Increasingly I want to know less about what lies between art and science,’ says the artist. He’s explored the North MARIA DIAS Pole, worked on a minuscule replica of Antoni Tàpies’s ‘Sock’, and had been looking to work with Getting the measure of trees trees for some time. In Madrid’s Espai OTR he wanted to display a ADN Galeria shows the latest project of Catalan artist Pep Vidal, root found in the village of Llessui which explores randomness and change. By Eugènia Sendra (in the Catalan Pyrenees) to evoke our lack of knowledge about On a train heading to Girona, limits of control that are applied to A-Desk, converted his doctoral nature. However, it turned out the Pep Vidal was stunned to notice forestry science, which is showing thesis into an art book (part of the root was bigger than the van for that the trees were lining up, that now at ADN Galeria. work he did in a cabin in the garden moving it. Later, Vidal was invited the forest was losing its wild and Vidal is a maths graduate and of local artists’ residency, Hangar, to work on a project based on tree random side, and turning into a has a PhD in physics: he moved and this piece will soon be shown logging, but his heart wasn’t in it. controlled entity. That’s when he into art via a photography course, at CaixaForum). The thesis Third time lucky, they say. started to plan ‘Trees, treelines and, after expanding his skills at focuses on algorithms for and global patterns’, an analysis the not-for-profit cultural and optimising the efficiency of the Trees... is at ADN Galeria until of the tiny changes, systems and artistic Barcelona organisation precision mirrors in the Alba Sep 19. Enric Granados, 49.

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Arts a Catalunya 1950-77 A life remembered

Sufjan Stevens returns to $CTEGNQPCHQTVJGƁTUVVKOGUKPEG his memorable performance at Primavera Sound in 2011. This visit sees the American musician presenting Carrie & Lowell  JKUƁTUVCNDWOUKPEG 2010’s The Age of Adz. The new release takes us back to classic Sufjan sounds with a beautiful body of work that is full of stripped-back folk. At the same time, it’s an autobiographical journey full of loneliness, faith, depression, suicide and dysfunctional relationships. He’s and in SALVADOR DALÍ: ‘EL NAIXEMENT D’UNA DEESSA’, 1960. ‘EL NAIXEMENT D’UNA DEESSA’, DALÍ: SALVADOR VEGAP DALÍ, GALA-SALVADOR FUNDACIÓ used the disc as a means to The Age of Adz, along a path  pieces on display. The artists are TGƂGEVQPVJGRCUUKPIQHJKU of experimentation and there, but what we don’t know is to mother (the eponymous Carrie), investigation that now seems to MNAC. Until October 25 what extent the choice of works and the devastation it caused be marking the closing of a circle. was made according to the criteria him. Carrie & Lowell is –Aleix Cabau Let’s start with the glass half full: of the museum, of history or reminiscient of the Sufjan heard the period of Catalan art that runs purely of what was possible (ie, on (2004), and Sufjan Stevens plays at the from 1915 to 1975 is the one that Let’s see what we can get). It follows a decade of detours that Auditori Fòrum on September 29 most resembles the Bermuda seems to be a case of ‘don’t bite took him via the orchestral at 7pm. €46 (€1 will be donated to Triangle. While the MNAC features off more than you can chew’. And arrangements of Illinois (2005) a charity chosen by the artist). work up to 1948, it’s by no means another thing – the show’s a comprehensive collection, and catalogue includes the works’ over at the MACBA, anything that’s vital statistics and also features produced prior to 1990 – and images of the documents on Walking with genius Catalan – is ignored. Yes, I’m display. There’s no sign of the being a tad unfair, but in an article artwork itself. When the exhibition of this size, one has to cut some closes, how will we remember the corners. ‘Arts in Catalonia art? Do we have to memorise it? 1950-77’ tries to compress the In the end, if I have to choose dramatis personae of a key between the half-full and half- quarter-century of art, as well as a empty glass, I’ll go with the load of silent documentation, into optimistic, positive vision. I’m a space much smaller than what it also pleased to see that many of really requires. Despite this, we the works on show come from the should celebrate the fact that MACBA. I fear that if it weren’t for UQOGQPGJCUƁPCNN[VCMGPVJGƁTUV this exhibition, they would never step toward sketching out a have seen the light of day. But is it chronological map of the era. really a question of ‘either/or’? And now for the glass half Why can’t we have both? La Pedrera – check. Casa Batlló – next to the Gothic Cathedral) has empty: the show’s curators –Ricard Mas check. La Sagrada Família and reopened and teamed up with deserve all my respect, but they’re Park Güell – check and check. Samsung to create a technically not specialists of this period and FOOTNOTE The exhibition You’ve visited all the Gaudí big advanced journey through Gaudí’s that’s clear in the selection of features more than 150 works. guns, and doubtless you want to universe. Interactive spaces, understand the man a little better. multimedia, holograms and It’s unsurprising. His vision was models are just part of the WHAT’S MORE incredible, his ambition experience that will open your eyes unassailable. Now there’s a new to his use of colour, light and exhibition in Barcelona that delves science. –Hannah Pennell NOTABLE ABSENCES STAY BEHIND KPVQ)CWFÉoUKPƂWGPEGUCPF Where are the painters who dominated Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday examines the groundbreaking Walking with Gaudí is at the the art scene in the 1950s, from night (8pm-midnight), when the methods he came up with to create Museu Diocesà de Barcelona, The Togores to Durancamps, and the exhibitions close, the MNAC terrace his globally lauded masterpieces. Gaudí Exhibition Center radical post-modern magazines such opens for enjoying both a cocktail After six months of renovations, Pla de la Seu, 7 as ‘Èczema’? and the views of Montjuïc. the Diocese Museum (found just www.gaudiexhibitioncenter.com

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(Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, century Benedictine monastery. FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp Classical Music 10.30pm. Options: show only; (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). show + one drink; show + different Mon & Wed 1pm. €16. €7.99 The art of the Spanish guitar: menu options (including tapas). children 8-17. Free for under-7s. T. music and wine Tuesday 1 €45-€160. €10 discount at tourist 679 305 718. reservas@ Carmen, Barcelona Duo de Guitar is QHƁEGURCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO bachinbarcelona.com one of Spain’s best guitar duos. Classical Here they perform a candlelit The most authentic Spanish guitar concert as you enjoy the music The art of the Spanish guitar: contemporary flamenco at masters and a glass of wine. Find more music and wine Tablao Cordobés Traditional music concerts on our Santa Ana Church (Santa Guitarist Robert Majure performs .KXGƂCOGPEQKPQPGQH$CTEGNQPCoU performed in one of website Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, ‘Alma Flamenca’ in the beautiful, most emblematic tablaos, with modernisme’s iconic timeout.com/ L3;FGC). 9pm. €20. semi-hidden church with the performances from some exciting buildings. barcelona &KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU amazing cloister. new names on the scene. Palau de la Música Info: bcnshop.com. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) Catalana (Palau de la M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm. €20. & Liceu (L3). Daily 8.15pm, 10pm. Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Spanish guitar masters &KUEQWPVCXCKNCDNGCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU €42.50. More info: (L1, L4). Sep 2,5,11,15,19,25,29 See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi bcnshop.com tablaocordobes.com 9pm. €19. Discount available at Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). VQWTKUVQHƁEGUDEPUJQREQO Spanish guitar masters Live Flamenco Spanish guitar masterpieces 'PLQ[CƂCOGPEQUJQYKPVJG Jazz performed in a beautiful setting. heart of the city. World music Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Gaudí Nights 2015: Mathew Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Sep 1,3,4,6,7, Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, Gaudí Nights 2015: Cita a Simon and Dave Mitchell 8,9,10,13,14,16,17,21,22,23,24, 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 Ciegas See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. 27,28,30 9pm. Sep 12, 16 (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos Enjoy concerts of jazz, blues, Tibidabo (FGC). 9.30pm. €19. Discount available at ƂCOGPEQCPFYQTNFOWUKECNQPI VQWTKUVQHƁEGUDEPUJQREQO Flamenco at Palau Dalmases with food and architecture at Historical surrounds are the setting Gaudí’s Torre Bellesguard. Spanish music HQTCNKXGƂCOGPEQUJQY (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Opera – Flamenco (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L1). Daily (FGC). Wed-Sat. Doors 7.30pm; Magic nights on the Dragon’s 7.30pm. Fri, Sat, Sun and public guided tour 7.30pm; concert Terrace: Sergi Vicente (guitar) Stories of Love holidays 7.30pm, 9.30pm. Info: 8.15pm; chill out 10pm-midnight. See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: A full cast performs the traditions bcnshop.com €25-€45. www.bellesguardgaudi. Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). QHQRGTC\CT\WGNCCPFƂCOGPEQ com Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Wednesday 2 Magic nights on the Dragon’s Flamenco (L1, L4). 9.30pm. From €38. Terrace: Carme Porcar bcnshop.com Flamenco Live music, drinks and food tasting Flamenco at the MEAM on the spectacular ‘dragon roof .KXGƂCOGPEQGXGT[6JWTUFC[PKIJV Flamenco at Palau Dalmases terrace’ of Antoni Gaudí’s beautiful from some of the best artists of the Flamenco See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Casa Batlló. genre in this modern art museum in Jaume I (L1). (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de the heart of Barcelona. Festival Mas i Mas: Rocío Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Wed-Sat. Entry (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Márquez presents El Niño with Palacio del Flamenco show for tour and concert at 8pm. €36. Every Thu. 6pm. €24. Reduced €19. Pepe Habichuela and other See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: ‘Magic nights’ only, access at 9pm. Includes wine and tapas. More info: guests Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). €29. For more Information and bcnshop.com 5VCTQHOQFGTPƂCOGPEQ/½TSWG\ bookings: bcnshop.com performs from her 2014 album El Tablao Cordobés Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Niño alongside veteran guitarist See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Habichuela and a number of other Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Thursday 3 Jaume I (L1). collaborators from the world of ƂCOGPEQ Live Flamenco Opera Palacio del Flamenco show Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Opera at Palau Dalmases Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). (L1, L4). 9pm. €20-€58. Lovely music courtesy of La Petita Companyia Lírica de Barcelona in a Tablao Cordobés Palacio del Flamenco show Classical venue located in the old part of the See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: A full cast of guitarists, singers city. The singers perform among Drassanes/Liceu (L3). and dancers, and the rhythms of Bach in Barcelona the audience for a truly immersive the cajón, heels and palms, take Every Monday and Wednesday experience. (Montcada, 20). M: Live Flamenco you on a journey into the world of lunchtime, cellist Jurgen van Win Jaume I (L1). Every Thu. 11pm. €20. See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça ƂCOGPEQ performs Bach’s Suites in a 11th- www.palaudalmases.com Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC).

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Tablao Flamenco Nervión See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: City centre restaurant hosts Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Flamenco ƂCOGPEQRGTHQTOCPEG (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Live Flamenco Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça €16.90; show + supper €27.90. Jaume I (L1). Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Gaudí Nights 2015: Cristian Friday 4 Cosano and Daniel Candel Flamenco at Palau Dalmases See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Classical Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Jaume I (L1).

Spanish guitar masters Palacio del Flamenco show See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi Saturday 5 See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Classical Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Tablao Cordobés Jazz The art of the Spanish guitar: See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: music and wine Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Summer nights at La Pedrera See Thu 3. Santa Ana Church (Santa J.P. Devard, Ignasi Terraza and Juli Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Tablao Flamenco Nervión Amy pay homage to Louis See Thu 3. (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume Armstrong in one of Gaudí’s most Teatime classical music I (L4). famed buildings with a live jazz Recital of zarzuela and Spanish show on the rooftop terrace. UQPIHGCVWTKPIYQTMUD[5QTQ\½DCN Includes visit to the Gaudí Space Vives, Granados and others, in Sunday 6 and a glass of wine. (Pg. de Gràcia, afternoon concert that includes a 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and glass of cava. Classical Provença (FGC). Sep 4, 5,11,12. MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume Doors 8.30pm; concert 9pm- I (L4). Doors 5.30pm; concert 6pm Spanish guitar masters 10.30pm. €28. (please arrive before concert See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi starts). €19. www.meam.es Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Rumba Spanish guitar masters See Wed 2. Palau de la Música Magic nights on the Dragon’s Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Opera – Flamenco Terrace: Aires de Rumba M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Stories of Love Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). FREE Sants Festa Major 2015 A full cast performs the traditions Neighbourhood festival enjoys QHQRGTC\CT\WGNCCPFƂCOGPEQ free al fresco concert from the Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, Festival Barcelona Municipal Band. 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Parc de l’Espanya Industrial. M: 9.30pm. From €38. Info: bcnshop. Tibidabo Live Festival Sants Estació (L3,L5). 7pm com Brand new music festival hosted at the hilltop amusement park with amazing city views. Headliners are Blues Flamenco Yo Lo Tengo and Mogwai. (Pl. del Tibidabo, 3-4). Fri 4-Sat 5. www. Gaudí Nights 2015: Cita a Live Flamenco tibidabolivefestival.com Ciegas See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Reial, 17). M: Catalunya Blues Av. Tibidabo (FGC). (L1,L3;FGC). Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Blues at the MEAM Jazz See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Jordi Sabatés performs piano Jaume I (L1). solos in this special venue. Magic nights on the Dragon’s (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Terrace: Marga MBande Palacio del Flamenco show Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC).

Flamenco Summer nights at La Pedrera Tablao Cordobés See Fri 4. (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Palacio del Flamenco show Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Drassanes/Liceu (L3).

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Live Flamenco Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Monday 7 See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Rumba Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Jaume I (L1). Classical Magic nights on the Dragon’s Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Terrace: Aires de Rumba Bach in Barcelona See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Blues See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau Jaume I (L1). Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Gaudí Nights 2015: Cita a Paral·lel (L2,L3). Ciegas Classical See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Flamenco Spanish guitar masters Tibidabo (FGC). See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi Fundació Pare Manel Fund- Flamenco Art Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Raising Concert Extensive programme of music and Live music in a good cause. Spanish music dance. Palau de la Música Catalana Palau 100 Cycle Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Cellist Jean-Guihen Queyras and 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). More info: Magic nights on the Dragon’s Urquinaona (L1, L4).9pm. pianist Alexander Melnikov www.liceubarcelona.cat. Terrace: Sergi Vicente (guitar) perform. See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Flamenco at the MEAM Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau The art of the Spanish guitar: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). See Thu 3. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona music and wine Jaume I (L1). (L1, L4). 9pm. €20-€58. See Thu 3. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Opera – Flamenco Flamenco at Palau Dalmases L3;FGC). See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Flamenco Stories of Love Jaume I (L1). Spanish guitar masters See Tue 1. Palau de la Música Palacio del Flamenco show See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Palacio del Flamenco show See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC).

Tablao Cordobés Wednesday 9 Thursday 10 Tablao Cordobés See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Classical Opera Drassanes/Liceu (L3).

Live Flamenco Bach in Barcelona Opera at Palau Dalmases Live Flamenco See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau See Thu 3. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: I (L4). Reial, 17). M: Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Paral·lel (L2,L3). Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Tablao Flamenco Nervión See Tue 1. (Montcada, 20). M: José Menor Classical See Thu 3. (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I Jaume I (L1). Spanish pianist performs solo (L4). concert. The art of the Spanish guitar: Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau music and wine Jazz de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona See Thu 3.Santa Ana Church (Santa Friday 11 (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €6. Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Sergio Cruz Trio Classical Jazz, blues, swing and cocktails in Spanish guitar masters Spanish guitar masters this city centre venue. See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi Spanish guitar masters Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). See Wed 2. Palau de la Música Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). L3). 8.30pm (double session). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Cover charge €8. Flamenco Jazz

Palacio del Flamenco show Celia Palli Trio World music Tuesday 8 See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Jazz and cocktails in this city Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). centre venue. Magic nights on the Dragon’s Flamenco Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Terrace: Carme Porcar Tablao Cordobés Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Palacio del Flamenco show See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: L3). 9pm (double session). Cover Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). charge €8. Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Live Flamenco Gaudí Nights 2015: Frederik Blues Tablao Cordobés See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Carlquist and Dave Mitchell See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Reial, 17). M: Catalunya See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Blues at the MEAM Drassanes/Liceu (L3). (L1,L3;FGC). Tibidabo (FGC). Chicago blues with Mr Shingles

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(singer, guitar and harmonica), Lucky Luskin (bass and singer) Jazz and Tommy Chav (drums and singer). Summer nights at La Pedrera (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L1). See Fri 11. (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC).

Magic nights on the Dragon’s Jazz Terrace: Marga MBande See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Summer nights at La Pedrera Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Susana Sheiman heads up the Open Gate quintet as they perform on the rooftop terrace of Sunday 13 the famous building. Includes visit to the Gaudí Space and Jazz glass of wine. (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal Live jazz (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Sep Concert at Milano Cocktail Bar. 4, 5,11,12. Doors 8.30pm; (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: concert 9pm-10.30pm. €28. Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Saturday 12 Opera – Flamenco Classical Grand Flamenco Gala Spanish guitar masters Enjoy a grand performance of the See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi classic Spanish . Palau Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). The art of the Spanish guitar: 9.30pm. From €38. bcnshop.com music and wine See Thu 3.Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Monday 14

Teatime classical music Classical Works by J.S.Bach performed by cellist Amat Santacana in the Bach in Barcelona historical Palau Gomis. See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Jaume I (L4). Doors 5.30pm; Paral·lel (L2,L3). concert 6pm (please arrive before concert starts). €19. www. A Musical Dialogue... meam.es Organist Kei Koito perfoms ancient and contemporary pieces. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Flamenco de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €6. Tablao Cordobés See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Tuesday 15

Palacio del Flamenco show Classical See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Spanish guitar masters See Wed 2. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). World music M: Urquinaona (L1, L4).

Gaudí Nights 2015: Carola The art of the Spanish guitar: Ortiz and Edurne Arizu music and wine See Wed 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: See Thu 3. Santa Ana Church (Santa Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC).

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Wednesday 16 Classical Rumba Wednesday 23

Classical FREE Poblenou Festa Major Magic nights on the Dragon’s Classical Neighbourhood festival enjoys free Terrace: Aires de Rumba Bach in Barcelona concert by BCN Municipal Band. See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Spanish guitar masters See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau Casino de l’Aliança del Poblenou. Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: M: Poblenou (L4). 8pm. Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Paral·lel (L2,L3). Ramon Bassal Sunday 20 The cellist performs works by Rumba Opera – Flamenco Rachmaninov, Schumann, Fauré Classical and Cassadó. Magic nights on the Dragon’s Grand Flamenco Gala Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau The Tallis Scholars Terrace: Aires de Rumba See Sun 13. Palau de la de la Música, 4-6). M: British group perform sacred music See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Música Catalana (Palau Urquinaona (L1, L4). from the Renaissance period. Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) de la Música, 4-6). M: Find more 8.30pm. €10 Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, Urquinaona (L1, L4). concerts on our 7). M: Liceu (L3). 7pm. €20. website Jazz timeout.com/ barcelona Friday 18 Jazz Opera – Flamenco Lluis Coloma Trio & The Suitcase Opera – Flamenco Brothers Magic nights on the Stories of Love Concert at Milano Cocktail Bar. Dragon’s Terrace: Marga Stories of Love See Tue 1. Palau de la Música (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya MBande See Sun 6. Teatre Poliorama (La Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double session). See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Cover charge €8. Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Classical Monday 21 Thursday 24 Flamenco #Nonstop Gospel Classical Opera Palacio del Flamenco show Fund-raising concert for people with See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: cerebral palsy. Bach in Barcelona Opera at Palau Dalmases Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau See Thu 3. (Montcada, 20). M: (L1), Monumental (L2). 7.30pm. del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Jaume I (L1). Tablao Cordobés Paral·lel (L2,L3). See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Blues Classical Tuesday 22 Live Flamenco Blues at the MEAM Haydn’s Creation See Tue 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Traditional jazz with Romani-Lasco Opera – Flamenco Belgian counter-tenor and conductor Reial, 17). M: Catalunya Hot Jazz Duo. René Jacobs performs. Auditori (L1,L3;FGC). (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Grand Flamenco Gala (Lepant, 150). M: Marina (L1), Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es See Sun 13. Palau de la Música Monumental (L2). 8.30pm. €10-€68. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Thursday 17 M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Saturday 19 Spanish music Opera Classical Classical Magic nights on the Dragon’s Opera at Palau Dalmases Terrace: Sergi Vicente (guitar) See Thu 3. (Montcada, 20). M: Teatime classical music The art of the Spanish guitar: See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Jaume I (L4). Works by Martin Romberg, music and wine Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) Debussy, Messaien and Mompou, See Tue 1. Santa Ana Church (Santa performed by Romberg. Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Jazz MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume Friday 25 I (L4). Doors 5.30pm; concert 6pm Magic nights on the Dragon’s (please arrive before concert Flamenco Pop Terrace: Carme Porcar starts). €19. www.meam.es. See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Tablao Cordobés Rick Astley Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Spanish guitar masters See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Record-breaking UK musician, who Performance by Zoran Dukic. Drassanes/Liceu (L3). shot to quick fame with ‘Never Live jazz Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Palacio del Flamenco show Gonna Give You Up’ in 1987. See Sun 13. (Ronda Universitat, de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). M: Paral·lel (L3). 8pm. €20.

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Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Blues 9.30pm. €8-€12.

Blues at the MEAM Magic nights on the Dragon’s Big Mama Montse and Rique Terrace: Marge MBande Sabates bring us some blues. See Wed 2. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es. Sunday 27 Saturday 26 Classical Flamenco Spanish guitar masters Tablao Cordobés See Tue 1. Santa Maria del Pi See Tue 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Drassanes/Liceu (L3).

Palacio del Flamenco show Monday 28 See Tue 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Classical

The art of Spanish guitar: Classical music and wine #NCKP)CTIKERGTHQTOUƂCOGPEQCPF Teatime classical music classical works, while you enjoy a Goldberg Variations performed by glass of wine. Santa Ana Church Helena Muñoz and Albert (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Coronado. L3;FGC). 9pm. €20. Discount at MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume VQWTKUVQHƁEGU+PHQDEPUJQREQO I (L4). Doors 5.30pm; concert 6pm (please arrive before concert starts). €19. www.meam.es Opera – Flamenco

Carmina Burana Stories of Love The local Orquestra Simfònica del See Sun 6. Teatre Poliorama (La Vallès perform Orff’s work. Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €6. Tuesday 29

Ravel’s Daphnis et Chloe Folk Kazushi Ono conducts the season opening concert for the Barcelona Sufjan Stevens and Catalonia Orchestra. US folk musician returns with Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina lauded new album. See page 43. (L1), Monumental (L2). 7pm. Also Auditori del Fòrum (Levant, 2-4). Sun 27 11am. €10-€56. M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €46.

Jazz Wednesday 30

47th Voll-Damm International Classical Jazz Festival of Barcelona Multiple award-winning musician Quartet Casals Diana Krall kicks off this year’s Performance of works by extensive Barcelona Jazz Festival. Shostakovich. Auditori (Lepant, Auditori del Fòrum (Levant, 2-4). 150). M: Monumental (L2), M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). 9pm. Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €18-€28. €44-€144. Bach in Barcelona Gramaphone All-Stars Big Band See Wed 2. Monestir de Sant Pau Local musical group take the del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: stage. Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3).

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El Born Centre Cultural VISION OF THE CITY (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & Exhibitions Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Tue-Sun and public holidays, 10am- 8pm. Closed Mon (except public Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona holidays). €6. Reduced: €4. Under- (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de 16s free. Sun 3pm-8pm free. First Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 Sun every month free, 10am-8pm. 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and public holidays. FREE Barcelona 1700. From stones to people No end date. Antoni Capella, society 18th-century Barcelona was photographer Until Oct 3. Catalan dynamic and forward-looking, but snapper whose subjects included marked by the wars that affected the Liceu and Ràdio Barcelona. the city from 1691 to 1714. FREE Until it is done! The siege of Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de 1714 No end date. Examining the Barcelona 14-month siege of Barcelona that (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & ended with capitulation to Bourbon Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 troops on September 11, 1714. 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am- FREE Mallorca 1715 Until Sep 6. 1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. Xavier Miserachs. Barcelona 'ZRNQTKPIVJGGXGPVUVJCVƁPCNN[ Miserachs, a leading 20th-century Catalan photographer, brought the War of Spanish FREE Apel·les Mestres. A is celebrated in this show that is the culmination of a four- Succession to an end. complete artist and multifaceted year project to order, catalogue and conserve his archive of man Until Oct 31. Examining the Espai VolART-Fundació Vila creations of this Catalan artist work. The exhibition takes us on a historical visual tour of Casas (1854-1936) who was a painter, the city. MACBA (Pl. dels Àngels, 1). www.macba.cat (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona poet, playwright and musician. (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm- Blue Project Foundation Permanent exhibition Under-16s & unemployed: free. 8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) Contemporary paintings shown in a Mon and public holidays. €1. & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- former cotton factory in Poblenou. Pis Pilot. Medellín-Barcelona Until Sun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3. More of Bigas and more of Luna Oct 25. The issue of housing in two (CH-CH2)n Sep 17-Dec 13. Sep 17-Dec 14. Artwork from late cities, Medellín in Colombia and 'ZJKDKVKQPHTQO)GTCTF(GTP½PFG\ Little is left to tell. Calvino after Catalan creative Bigas Luna Barcelona, that share many featuring oblong colours, Calvino Until Oct 31. Collective highlighting personal alchemies similarities as well as differences. employing acrylics on wood, resin exhibition featuring 12 works by between cinema, painting, writing, and mixed techniques. local and international artists, photography, science and CosmoCaixa Connections Sep 17-Dec 13. which have been put into pairs. technology. (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo Retrospective of sculptural works Invented realities Sep 14-Dec 20. (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun and from late Catalan artist, Albert Coma CaixaForum Barcelona photographer Oriol public holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Estadella, who revolutionised (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). Jolonch incorporates a surrealist Mon (except public holidays). €4 Catalan and Spanish art during the M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 476 aspect into his works. (permanent and temporary 1960s with his use of new 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults exhibitions). Under 16s free. First techniques. €4. Under 16s free. Castell de Montjuïc Sun of month free. (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya Fundació Antoni Tàpies 19th FotoPres “La Caixa”. New (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Mon- The Material Room No end (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia Documentary Image Until Oct 18. Sun and public holidays 10am- date. Extensive space housing (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- Ten photojournalism projects that 8pm. €5. Reduced: €3. information and interactive Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. WUGVJGFQEWOGPVCT[ƁNOHQTOCV displays covering everything from Students and pensioners, €5.60. Three Narratives. Language Until Montjuïc, the construction of a the Big Bang forwards. Sep 27. Final exhibition in cycle castle Permanent exhibition. 3D Planetarium No end date. Tàpies collection. Works and curated by Enrique Juncosa Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles New installation that lets you references Until Jan 2016. Works featuring works by international Berga. Permanent exhibition. explore space on a 3D voyage. by the late Catalan artist created artists to inspire dialogue about Flooded forest No end date. from the ’40s to the ’80s, along the linguistic aspects of our lives. CCCB One of the science museum’s star with a selection of works by other (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, attractions is this living exhibit artists from his own collection. Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & with more than 100 species of (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries public holidays 11am-8pm. Closed ƂQTCCPFHCWPCHTQOVJG$TC\KNKCP Fundació Joan Miró (L1) & Poblenou, Llacuna (L4). T. 93 Mon (except public holidays). €6. Amazon jungle. (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun Reduced entry on Wed (except Year 2100 experiment No end (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Jul- 11am-2pm. Closed Mon and public public holidays) and for date. What might life be like in the Sep: Tue-Sat 10am-8pm; Thu 10am- holidays. €5. Reduced: €2. pensioners and students: €4. year 2100 and the 22nd century? 9pm; Sun & public holidays

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10am-2.30pm. Closed Mon (except 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public 93 256 21 00. Wed-Fri 5pm-8pm. Permanent exhibition An public holidays). €11. Temporary holidays, noon-8pm. Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 5pm-8pm. archaeological tour of the Roman exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. colony of Barcino. FREE Michael Snow. Sequences FREE Interogate Barcelona, from Haggadot Until Sep 27. 15th- Permanent exhibition Most Until Nov 1. Retrospective of work industrialisation to the 21st century Barcelona and Catalan important public collection of by Canadian artist who used a century Permanent exhibition. haggadots (illlustrated Jewish works by the Catalan artist. plurality of techniques such as texts). Alfons Borrell. Work and days Jul OWUKEƁNORCKPVKPIUEWNRVWTG MUHBA Park Güell Barcelona in late antiquity times 3-Sep 27. 100 paintings from 60 photography and installations. (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). M: No end date. Archaeology years of work by BCN artist Borrell. Vallcarca (L3). T. 93 256 21 22. exhibition. Lesson 0 (Espai 13) Until Sep 6. MACBA. Museu d’Art Daily, 8.30am-9.30pm. The Casa Carolingian coins of Louis the %[ENGQHGZJKDKVKQPUTGƂGEVKPIQP Contemporani de la Guarda museum in Park Pious (814-840) No end date. the current state of art education. (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat Güell is part of the ‘monumental (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 area’ of the park, and visits are MUHBA Refugi 307 Fundació Suñol 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; covered by general conditions for (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays admission. Access with ticket only. Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22. (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except For more information: www. Mon-Sat: guided visits by 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm. public holidays). Whole museum parkguell.cat. appointment only. Sun: 10.30am Closed Sun and public holidays. €4. ticket: €10. Reduced: €8. (Eng), 11.30am, 12.30pm. Closed Reduced: €2. Permanent exhibition The Casa de public holidays. €3.40. Species of space Until Jan 31, la Guarda, Park Güell and Permanent exhibition 2016. Examining the spaces that modernista Barcelona. MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres of Collection of works belonging to FGƁPGWUCEEQTFKPIVQVJGYC[YG underground passageways bear Josep Suñol that includes art by use them. MUHBA Plaça del Rei witness to the city’s suffering Warhol, Dalí, Tàpies, Picasso, Desires and needs Until May (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 during the Civil War. Miró and Man Ray. 2016. New works that have joined 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun Italia. I Sei Sensi Until Jan 9, the MACBA collection. 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7. MUHBA Santa Caterina 2016. Re-examination of late 20th- Sergi Aguilar. Reverse/Obverse Reduced: €5. Under-16s free. Free (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Jaume I (L4). T. century Italian works held in the Until Jan 31, 2016. Retrospective admission Sun from 3pm. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm. collection of the Suñol Foundation. of work by Barcelona sculptor. José Guerrero. The Presence of Xavier Miserachs. Barcelona Black (1950-1966) Until Sep 5. Sep 18-Mar 27. Exhibition Celebrating the 100th anniversary celebrating the work of Catalan of the birth of the artist. photographer, who documented 20th-century Barcelona. See box Hash Marihuana & Hemp opposite. Museum (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art 93 319 75 39. Every day 10am- Modern 10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am- Permanent exhibition The past, 8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. present and future of the cannabis plant and its various uses. 21st-century art. Permanent exhibition from the museum’s Jardí Botànic collection with almost 300 (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: paintings and 80 sculptures. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Daily 10am-7pm. €3.50. MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents Reduced: €1.70. de Barcelona (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm- Mediterranean climate zones all 7pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public over the world. holidays 10am-2pm. Closed Mon Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet (except public holidays). €8. of curiosities Until April 2016. Tue- Reduced: €6. Sun, Mondays that are public holidays 10.30am-6.30pm. Permanent exhibition The Reconstruction of one of BCN’s fascinating world of creativity and earliest natural history collections. inventing.

La Virreina Centre de MUHBA Oliva Artés la Imatge (Espronceda, 142-146, Parc Central (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 del Poblenou). M: Poblenou (L4). T.

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Closed Sun and public holidays. Yorker Bailen, who is renowned for (except public holidays). €5. Museu del Mamut his images of the inhabitants of Reduced: €3.50. (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 FREE Permanent exhibition. rural and suburban South Africa. 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am-9pm. Archaeological display among the Permanent exhibition Art, books €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (6- foundations of the Santa Caterina MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica and other objects gathered on 15): €3.50 market. (La Rambla, 96). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 expeditions to Asia, Africa, Oceania 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10am- and the Americas. Permanent exhibition MUHBA Turó de la Rovira midnight. Adults €9. Reduced: €8. Writings. Symbols, words, See remains of woolly mammoths (Marià Labèrnia s/n). Bus: 119,V17. powers Until Jan 31, 2016. Tracing and other Ice Age animals. T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Fri 5pm-8pm; Permanent exhibition The the development of writing from an Sat, Sun 11am-8pm. history of eroticism. instrument of conserving the word. Museu del Modernisme Català (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia Permanent exhibition Barcelona Museu de la Moto de Barcelona Museu Diocesà (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon- to the limit. (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. (Av. de la Catedral, 4). T. 93 315 Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Sep 1-15: Mon-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; 2213. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. M: €10. Reduced: €7. mmbcn.cat Museu Blau Sat 10.30am-2.30pm, Jaume I (L4) and Liceu (L3). www. (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc 3.30pm-5.30pm; closed Sun. From gaudiexhibitioncenter.com Permanent exhibition del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum Sep 16: Tue-Sat 10.30am-2.30pm, 350 works by 42 of the most (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat 10am- 3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun Walking with Gaudí New important artists of the Catalan 7pm. Sun & public holidays 10am- 10.30am-2.30pm; closed Mon. interactive exhibition, created with modernisme movement. 8pm. Closed Mon (except public Samsung, that delves into the Portrait of Barcelona Until Oct holidays). €6. Reduced: €2.70. The history of the motorbike in inspiration and creation of Antoni 15. The evolution of the city during Museum & Botanical Gardens €7. Catalonia 36 of the most Gaudí. See page 43. the 20th century shown in photos representative models. from the museum’s archive. Poisoned. The most venemous Bultaco, a legendary motorbike Museu del Disseny animals in nature Until Dec How Until Nov. The musem pays homage de Barcelona Museu Egipci de Barcelona natural poisons can kill and save. to one of Spain’s greatest 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2N (València, 284). M: Passeig de Drawings by Luis Feo Until Jan 31, motorbike manufacturers. de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). M: Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. 2016#TVYQTMKPURKTGFD[UEKGPVKƁE Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Tue- Until Sep 11: Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; illustrations and experts in Museu de la Música Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5. Sun 10am-2pm. From Sep 12: Mon- drawing, etchings and photography. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Reduced: €3. museudeldisseny.cat Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat Nutrition, vital instinct Until May & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Tue- 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. €11. 2016 Fundamental concepts of Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-8pm. From the world to the museum. Reduced: €8. food and nutrition, as well as Closed Mon. €5. Reduced: €3.50. Product design, cultural heritage healthy eating habits. Free admission Sun from 3pm and Permanent exhibition. Daily objects Permanent exhibition Almost a for under-16s. considered from a museum thousand exhibits provide a Museu de Badalona perspective. glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Permanent exhibition Take a trip Dressing the body. Silhouettes Tutankhamun. Story of a Badalona. M: Badalona-Pompeu through musical history. and fashion (1550-2014) discovery No end date. 1922 Fabra (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue-Sat Phonos, 40 years of electronic Permanent exhibition. How women archaeological expedition that 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & public music in Barcleona Until Sep 27. change their shape with clothes. uncovered the pharaoh’s tomb. holidays 10am-2pm. €6.48. The Phonos laboratory was created Extraordinary! Decorative and Reduced: €2.16. in 1974 and became a pioneer in applied arts collections (3rd-20th Museu Frederic Màres electro music. century) Permanent exhibition. (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. Permanent exhibition Visit the FREE Voices of the Mediterranean. Pieces of art from across the 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; underground remains of the Until Sep 27. Hear musical voices centuries including ceramics, Sun, public holidays 11am-8pm. Roman city of Baetulo. from countries including Italy, textiles, furniture and clocks. Closed Mon (except public holidays). Croatia, Greece, Egypt and Algeria. Graphic design: from trade to €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. Museu de Montserrat profession Permanent exhibition. (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 Tracing the professionalisation of Permanent exhibition Its collection Montserrat). FGC: Monistrol de (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant graphic design. includes a range of valuable Montserrat + zip train. Mon-Sun Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 artworks and objects. 10am-5.45pm. From Jun 20 10am- 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Museu del Futbol Club Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31, 6.45pm. €7. Reduced: €4. Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Groups: €4. Barcelona 2016. How a trip to Greece inspired (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 or 9). sculptor Aristides Maillol. Permanent Exhibition Paintings by Permanent exhibition M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00. El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, The story of chocolate, from its 10am-7.30pm (some parts of tour Museu Marítim de Barcelona Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso. origins to its arrival in Europe. are closed on match day). €23. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Ramon Calsina, Remembrance Jul Children: €17. Under 6s & FCB Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. 17-Nov 8. Retrospectiv of work by Museu de les Cultures del Món members, free. Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. the late Catalan artist Calsina, (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). featuring almost 100 pieces. T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am- Camp Nou Experience Discover Extension of water Until Sep 27. Roger Balen, photography Jul 28- 7pm; Sun and public holidays 100 years of the club’s history and School pupils worked with artist-in- Oct 12. Photography from New 10am-8pm. Closed Mondays visit the stadium. residence Mònica Roselló to

52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com The Arts research the sea, using books, FREE Catalunya Moto Until Oct photos, and other historical 25. Show that looks at the history resources. of motorcycles in Catalonia, Theatre Ona-Ola-Wave. Surf in Catalonia covering themes of industry, Until Jan 17, 2016*QYUWTƁPI society, competition and has grown in popularity. technology. El Molino FREE RCR Architects. (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Museu Nacional d’Art de Shared creativity Until Tel. 93 205 51 11. www. Catalunya Book your Sep 13. Exploring 25 GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU (Parc de Montjuïc). M: favourite years of the Olot Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available Espanya (L1, L3;FGC). T. restaurants at architectural studio via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat timeout.com/ and the innovative, 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU 10am-8pm; Sun, public barcelona shared creativity of its holidays 10am-3pm. Closed founders. Rumba experience Thu 9.30pm; Mon (except public holidays). FREE Stubbornly. Images Fri, Sat 6.30pm, 9.30pm. €27. Two €12. Admission to roof terrace €2. from the Catalan process Until Sep tickets + two Moritz beers, €50. Free entry Sat afternoon, from 3pm. 8. Exhibition in the palace gardens. Enjoy rumba as you’ve never seen Temporary shows: ask at museum. FREE Natural paths, vital it before. itineraries Until Sep 10. Permanent exhibition World’s Teatre Gaudí Barcelona most important collection of Pis-museu Casa Bloc (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M: Romanesque art and Catalan (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant modernisme. Bages (L1). Guided tours in Catalan, Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603 Second Beginning. Arts in Spanish and English: reservations 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. Catalonia 1950-1977 Until Oct 25. must be made in advance before EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGPQPGJQWT Catalan art from the middle of the Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am. before performances start. last century is given centre stage. Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; See page 43. Thu 3pm-5.30pm. Individual visits: Monólogos de la vagina Until Sep €3. Info: tel. 93 256 68 01 or www. 13. Tue-Sun 8.30pm. €20. Eve Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport museudeldisseny.cat. Ensler’s famous show, performed Joan Antoni Samaranch in Spanish. (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Casa Bloc A symbol of rational T’estimo però no tant Until Sep 20. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 292 53 social housing in Barcelona. Thu-Sat 10.30pm. Sun 6pm. €20. 79. Tue-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public Third season for this comedy show holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed Reial Monestir de Santa Maria in Catalan. Mon (except public holidays). de Pedralbes €5.10. Students: €3.20. Under-7s (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina Teatre Poliorama and over-65s: free. Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm; Sat 10am-7pm; L3). T. 93 317 75 99. www. Permanent exhibition Explore Sun, 10am-8pm. Public holidays, VGCVTGRQNKQTCOCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU in-depth the worlds of sport and 10am-2pm. Closed Mon (except Tue-Fri from 5pm. Sat & Sun from the Olympic Games. public holidays). €4.40. Reduced: 4pm. VI Barcelona Olympic Foundation €3.10. International Prize Until Sep 29. Andre y Dorine Sep 9-19. Series of artworks on paper. Permanent exhibition Murals Basque theatre group Kulunka under the magnifying glass – Teatro present this play about an paintings from Sant Miquel GNFGTN[EQWRNGTGƂGEVKPIQPYJCV (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). Chapel. brought them together. In T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; Permanent exhibition Plants, Spanish. Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon. €14 remedies and apothecaries – the (combined ticket for museum + monastery’s medieval garden. temporary exhibition). Collection only: €11. Temporary exhibition Recinte Modernista. Fundació Dance only: €6.50. Privada (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Permanent exhibition More than Sant Pau–Dos de Maig (L5). Mon-Fri Gran Teatre del Liceu 3,800 works from different periods 10am-6.30pm; Sat, Sun, public (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). in Picasso’s life. holidays 10am-2.30pm. Included www.liceubarcelona.cat with entry ticket. Swan Lake Sep 16-20. Wed-Sat (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal Women of the World: Home and 8pm. Sun 5pm. €10-€153. The (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat work in Barcelona UN English National Ballet performs 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays International Institute in the Sant Tchaikovsky’s story of Odette, a 10am-2.30pm. Rafael pavilion hosts exhibition. princess turned into a swan

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Caballa Canalla MARIA DIAS  QVJGTFGRGPFCDNGHKZVWTGUQPC OGPWFQOKPCVGFD[TKEGHKUJCPF Pl. del Poeta Boscà, 1 UJGNNHKUJ4QHGURTGRCTGU (Barceloneta). GNCDQTCVGUGCHQQFFKUJGUnYKVJC 6 2#TQWPFa FGNKDGTCVGN[EJGGM[UVTGGVYKUG VYKUVoCUKPJKUVTCFKVKQPCN 0GZVVQ$CTEGNQPGVCOCTMGV+UCDGN $CTEGNQPGVCRQVCVQbombaVJG )CNQDCTFGUCPFJGTUQP)WKNNGO #PFCNWUKCPUV[NGUSWKFQTVJG 4QHGU QH*QHHOCPCPF#$C% JCXG OGCVDCNNUYKVJEWVVNGHKUJ ETGCVGFCHTKGPFN[NCKFDCEMOWNVK +PCFFKVKQPVQYJCVoUQPVJG URCEGTGUVCWTCPVVJCVoUYQPOCP[ OGPWVJGTGCTGVYQQTVJTGG HCPUKPVJGUJQTVVKOGUKPEGKV FKUJGUQHVJGFC[+H[QWIGVNWEM[ QRGPGF9KVJCPKPVGTKQTFGUKIP CPFVJGTGUVCWTCPVKUPoVVQQHWNN VJCVOCMGUVJGOQUVQHCNN *QPGUV'UVCTCPUVCIGFKTGEVQT RQUUKDKNKVKGUQHVJGNQECVKQP OCÊVTGFoOC[GXGPUWTRTKUG[QW %CDCNNC%CPCNNCQHHGTUCPWPWUWCN YKVJUQOGQHJKUEQPLWTKPIVTKEMU CPFFKUVKPEVKXGTCPIGQHFKPKPI .GCXGTQQOHQTVJGFGUUGTVUCPF QRVKQPU+PVJGXQNWOKPQWUKPVGTKQT RCUVTKGUGURGEKCNN[VJGECTTQV CVCP[VKOGQHFC[[QWECPGPLQ[ ECMGVQRQHKVUENCUUKP$CTEGNQPC VCUVKPIFKUJGUCPFVCRCUOCFG #UHQTVJGEQEMVCKNUVJGTGCTGUVKNN WUKPIHTGUJKPITGFKGPVUHTQOVJG OCP[DCNO[GXGPKPIUNGHVVJKU OCTMGVPGZVFQQTCUYGNNCU OQPVJVQFTQRD[CPFUCORNGVJGO EQEMVCKNUCPFCPGZVGPUKXGTCPIGQH –Marcelo Aparicio YKPGU6JGVYQHNQQTUQHVJG | TGUVCWTCPVCTGEQPPGEVGFD[CNCTIG YCNMYC[VJCVETQUUGUVJGURCEKQWU THE BILL CPFCVVTCEVKXGQRGPMKVEJGPUQWTEG QHVJGCTQOCUCPFHNCXQWTUVJCV (For 3) DTKPIVJGITQWPFHNQQTFKPKPITQQO 3 beers ...... a18 VQNKHG+VCNUQDQCUVUCUGRCTCVG 1 pescaito frito ...... a6.20 URCEGEJTKUVGPGFla peixera nVJG 1 lonja carpaccio ...... a9.70 HKUJVCPMo HQTITQWRUQTHCOKNKGU 2 Andalusian-style squid ...... a14.20 CPFQPVJGWRRGTHNQQTles golfes 1 cured ham ...... a12.20 YJGTGFKPGTUECPUCORNGHQWT 1 baked ham with potatoes ....a5.80 FKHHGTGPVMKPFUQHUGVOGPWU 1 mini bomba ...... a4.80 (KPCNN[QPVJGVQRHNQQTVJGTGoUC 1 coca de recapte ...... a8.30 RTKXCVGTQQOHQTCFQ\GPIWGUVU 2 pa amb tomàquet ...... a4.00 6JGPKIJVYGCVGVJGTGYGYGTG 1 chicken fingers...... a6.50 KORTGUUGFD[VJGUWEEWNGPVRQTMQH the cochifritoVJG%CUVKNKCP TOTAL (with IVA)...... a89.70 5RCPKUJFKUJRCTGZEGNNGPEGYJKEJ YCUDGCWVKHWNN[EQQMGF6JG Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink OWUUGNUCPFVJGUCNVEQFYKVJ critics review anonymously and ICTNKECPFURKPCEJOQWUUGNKPGCTG pay their own bills.

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KUO TOKYO-SUSHI YASHIMA High-quality Japanese dishes combined with Open since 1978, this family business has a great Owned by the man who opened Catalonia’s first Catalan touches are what you’ll find at this range of home-made dishes and fabulous sushi, Japanese restaurant, this place is at the luxury end intimate, uptown joint. Madrazo, 135. along with a top-notch set lunch menu. Comtal, 20. of the scale. Av. Josep Tarradellas, 145.

KOY SHUNKA DARUMA The chef here is the only Japanese cook in Spain Everything is good here, but in particular the to have won a Michelin star. And his sushi is uramakis – try the eel and prawn tempura with always amazing. Copons, 7. Sushi: unagi sauce (made with eel broth). Villarroel, 237. ƁPGƁUJ HQTCNN ,CRCPGUGTGUVCWTCPVU CDQWPFKP$CTEGNQPCCPF  VJGUGCTGQWTRKEMUQH YJGTG[QWoNNƁPFUQOGQH  VJGOQUVFGNKEKQWUUWUJK  By Hannah Pennell

PAKTA SAKURA-YA THE TATAMI ROOM One of Albert Adrià’s various eateries in Barcelona, Proof that there’s more than meets the eye to This restaurant is based on the concept of izakayas, this one focuses on Nikkei, Peruvian-Japanese shopping-centre dining. Enjoy great sushi in the Japanese taverns with sunken tables and tatami fusion, which is given the Adrià twist. Lleida, 5. surrounds of L’illa Diagonal. Diagonal, 557. mats to sit on. Poeta Cabanyes, 19.

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El Mercat de Glòries Gourmet paradise +PVJGJGCTVQHVJGFKUVTKEVQH)NÎTKGUKPVJG)NÎTKGU5JQRRKPI%GPVTG'N/GTECVFG)NÎTKGU KUCIQ  VQRNCEGHQTHQQFKGUNQQMKPIHQTCITGCVTCPIGQHQRVKQPUCPFSWCNKV [RTQFWEVU

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Wine bars Monvínic 6JKUKUQPGQHVJGNCTIGUV Bar Nostàlgic KPHQTOCVKQPEGPVTGUHQTYKPGPQV #NVJQWIJNQECVGFKPVJG QPN[KP'WTQRGDWVVJGYQTNFQXGT HCUJKQPCDNG5CPV#PVQPKOCTMGV +VoUCNUQCYKPGDCTCPFTGUVCWTCPV CTGCVJKUDCTFQGUPQVOKOKEVJG 6JGNCVVGTsYJKEJHQEWUGUQP 0QTFKECGUVJGVKEQHOQUVPGY VTCFKVKQPCNEWKUKPGYKVJCETGCVKXG NQECNGUVCDNKUJOGPVU6JG[UGTXG VQWEJsKUGZEGNNGPVD[VJGYC[ CIQQFUGNGEVKQPQHYKPGU Diputació, 249. RCTVKEWNCTN[HTQO%CVCNQPKCRNWU T. 93 272 61 87. VJG[JCXGIQQFDGGTQPVCRCPF M: Universitat (L1,L2) CPKORTGUUKXGNKUVQHIKPUOCNV YJKUMKGUCPFURGEKCNTWOU)KP CPFVQPKEUURTKV\VJG[OCMGKV Seafood CNNKPENWFKPIVCRCUVQRNGCUG GXGPVJGOQUVU[DCTKVKERCNCVGU Els Pescadors Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2) ,QUGR/CWNKPKCPFJKUYKHGJCXG

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VWTPGFVJKUKPVQCNQXGN[URQV IQQFRK\\CU EQODKPKPICPVKSWGHWTPKVWTGYKVJ Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. OQFGTPFÅEQTCPFTGVCKPKPIKVUCKT M: Jaume I (L4) QHCUOCNNVQYPDCT1PGFGNKEKQWU TGEQOOGPFCVKQPITKNNGFUCTFKPGU Piazze d’Italia KPUCWEGVJQWIJVJG[FQPoVCNYC[U #VGORNGQHUQWVJGTP+VCNKCP JCXGVJGO4KEGFKUJGUCTGC EWKUKPGYKVJCPKPPQXCVKXGCPF UVCRNGQPVJGOGPWCPFPGXGT RTQXQECVKXGVYKUV6JGRK\\CEJGH FKUCRRQKPV OCMGUVJGFQWIJURKPCPFFCPEG Plaça Prim, 1. CDQXGJKUƁPIGTVKRUDGHQTG T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) VTCPUHQTOKPIKVKPVQCPQWVUVCPFKPI ETWUV6T[VJGKTUYGGV0WVGNNCRK\\C Rías de Galicia YJKEJKUEQORNGVGN[QXGTVJGVQR 6JKUTGUVCWTCPVKUVJGUGVVKPIHQT DWVPQVVQDGOKUUGF VJG+INGUKCUHCOKN[oUYQPFGTHWN Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. TGNCVKQPUJKRYKVJVJGƁPGUV M: Rocafort (L1) UGCHQQF6JGOGPWKPENWFGU %CPVCDTKCPNQDUVGTYKVJICTNKE ,QJP&QT[CPFVZCPIWTTQETCD Tapas ECPPGNNQPK#PFYJGPKVoUKP UGCUQPVJG[JCXGVJGGZSWKUKVG Bar del Pla $QTFGCWZNCORTG[ 2QUKVKQPGFUQOGYJGTGDGVYGGPC Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. (TGPEJDKUVTQCPFCVCRCUDCT$CT M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) FGN2NCUGTXGUVCRCUCPFUOCNN RNCVGU FKXKPGRKIoUVTQVVGTUYKVJ Tabarca Langosta’s Club HQKGUWRGTDpa amb tomàquet  6KPQ/CTVÉPG\UCKNQTCPFEJGH &TKPMUKPENWFG/CJQWQPVCR C GZVTCQTFKPCKTGJCUQRGPGFCP ƁPGDGGTVJCVoUQHVGPKIPQTGFJGTG WPWUWCNTGUVCWTCPVKP$CTEGNQPC DGECWUGKVoUHTQO/CFTKF RNWU URGEKCNKUKPIKPNQDUVGTJGJCU UQOGIQQFYKPGUD[VJGINCUU TGEQXGTGFVJGTGEKRGUQHVJG Montcada, 2. NQDUVGTƁUJGTOGPHTQOVJGKUNCPF T. 93 268 30 03. QH6CDCTECCPFJGFQGUUQYKVJC M: Jaume I (L4) OGPWVJCVKPENWFGUNQDUVGTCPF TKEGEQQMGFKPVJGNQDUVGTUVQEM El Jabalí Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. 6JKUFGNKDCTYJKEJKUTGOKPKUEGPV M: Universitat (L1,L2) QH#X2CTCN“NGNKPKVUJG[FC[KUC ITGCVRNCEGVQGCVYQPFGTHWN VCRCUsVT[VJGRCVCVCUDTCXCU Pizza VJGEJKEMGPUCNCFCPFVJGEWTGF UCWUCIGsYJKNGUKRRKPIQPIQQF La Bella Napoli YKPG+VoUCNUQCPKEGRNCEGVQUKV 6JGTGECPDGHGY$CTEGNQPC QPVJGVGTTCEGCPFFQUQOG TGUKFGPVUYJQJCXGPoVVTKGFVJG UGTKQWURGQRNGYCVEJKPI YQPFGTHWNRK\\CUUGTXGFKPVJKU Ronda Sant Pau, 15. RNCEGYKVJCPCWVJGPVKE+VCNKCP T. 93 441 10 82. CVOQURJGTGCPFPQKU[EJGGTHWN M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) YCKVGTU$QQMCVCDNGKH[QWoTG IQKPICVVJGYGGMGPF Tapas 24 Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. #PQVJGTPWVTCFVCRCUDCT M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) HQEWUKPIQPSWCNKV[RTQFWEG #OQPIVJGQZVCKNUVGYUHTKGF La Bricciola RTCYPUCPFEQFETQSWGVVGU #TGCN+VCNKCPVTCVVQTKCYKVJIQQF JQYGXGTHCPUQHEJGH%CTNGU RK\\CUCPFHCPVCUVKERCUVC #DGNNCPYKNNCNUQƁPFRNC[HWN (GCVWTGUCIQQFYKPGNKUVCPFUQOG UPCEMUOQTGKPMGGRKPIYKVJJKU ITGCV+VCNKCPITCRRC UKIPCVWTGUV[NG6JG/E(QKG Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. $WTIGTKUCPGZGTEKUGKPHCUVHQQF M: Mercat Nou (L1) JGCXGPCUKUVJGbikiniCUOCNN XGTUKQPQHJKUVCMGQPVJGJCO Murivecchi CPFEJGGUGVQCUVKG 6JKUTGUVCWTCPVVTCVVQTKCKUCFKTGEV Diputació, 269. TGNCVKXGQH7P2QUVQCN5QNQP% T. 93 488 09 77. 7TIGNNCPFVJG[DQVJOCMGTGCNN[ M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4)

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn Step up to the mic Think your singing deserves 15 minutes of fame? Prove it by singing your heart out at one of Barcelona’s top karaoke spots. By Roger Rodríguez

represents you and your mates, then head off for a bite to eat or to your bed for dreams of international superstardom. Diputació, 365. www.facebook.com/pages/ Weekend-Karaoke

ZOOLOGIC Zoologic is a restaurant that banks on wild and fun cheekiness and ambiguity. Along with dinner you’ll take in a futuristic cabaret show, with characters who are elegant yet far from the norm; don’t worry, it’s nothing like the stereotypical place frequented by drunken groups looking for a loud time. The karaoke sessions begin after dinner. &GƁPKVGN[DQQMKPCFXCPEG Poble Espanyol, Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia, 13. www.zoologicrestaurant.es

KLAVIER People are talking, and they’re saying that at Klavier, every night is special. Musician Joan Miró is the owner and host of this piano bar MARCO QUIROGA with a deliciously decadent charm ANTI-KARAOKE letting it all hang out. Only for the Ross, Alaska, Abba and Boy and very, very, very late nights. Anti-Karaoke is the rowdiest and most daring. George. With décor like that, you Klavier has a je ne sais quoi of the raunchiest karaoke in the city. If Sidecar, Plaça Reial, 7. can imagine the kind of tunes that divine gauche: it may remind the you’ve ever fancied yourself a rock €8 (including drink). will be awaiting you during their more mature clientele of the kind of star, then any Thursday from www.antikaraoke.com karaoke sessions, every Thursday disco they went to back in the day 10pm, head to Sidecar, get up from 9pm. hoping for a smooch. As the night onstage and test out your biggest SOR RITA Mercè, 27. www.sorritabar.es progresses, a variety of fauna vocals and your best moves. It’s The name Sor Rita works out to a wander in, including the slightly all about the rock ’n’ roll here (as playful way of saying ‘crazy ladies’ WEEKEND KARAOKE BAR longer in the tooth leaving the well as the occasional cheesy in Spanish. The venue itself is not You’re out on the town in the centre ballroom, confused night owls, ƂCUJDCEMVWPG YKVJVJGXCUV at all reverent; in fact it attracts and still hankering for that last radical party animals, and indie majority of songs in English sinners, scoundrels and the drink of the night in a karaoke bar. kids who check each other out with thanks to the picks from your amoral like Winnie-the-Pooh to You want something more mellow covert lust. But what everyone’s American host, Rachel Arieff honey. You’re surrounded by than the wild stage show that is really after is the microphone, and RKEVWTGFCDQXG $GYCTPGFVJCV images that would delight Pedro Anti-Karaoke, and a venue where the piano accompaniment of Miró, there’s no monitor for the public to Almodóvar – the entrance ceiling is you don’t have to wait half an hour to sing various standards from the follow along, so all eyes are on covered with high heels, a series of for your song to come on. This is gigantic repertoire. If you’re at you. If you want, there’s a book of shelves display Barbie- and Ken- the place for you. Between the Klavier when it’s closing time, be lyrics on a music stand you can NKMGƁIWTGUKPƂCITCPVGCPFJWIG metro stops of Tetuán and Girona forewarned that the next day you’ll refer to, but you’re always better collages and framed images [QWoNNƁPFVJKUMCTCQMGJQWUG be in quite a bit of pain. off choosing a tune you know feature the likenesses of big where you can get a nightcap and Aragó, 221. pretty much off by heart and Kitschland heroes such as Diana sing the anthem that best www.klavierbcn.es

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THE RIGHT WAY TO SAY GOODBYE

Klaus Johann Grobe 6JG5YKUUFWQQH5GXK.CPFQNV QTICPU[PVJGUK\GTXQECNU  CPF&CPKGN$CEJOCPP FTWOUXQECNU RTGUGPVVJGKT debut album, Im Sinne der Zeit, a gem of indietronica that GXQMGUVJGRGTHGEVUQWPFUECRGUHQTVJGUGƁPCNFC[UQH summer. La [2] de l’Apolo. Saturday 12, 9.30pm.

Sala Apolo (details above). Wed Sessions 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 (advance). Price includes Nasty Mondays one drink. Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: the city’s wildest Monday night Cupcake party. Miss it at your peril. Take a trip down memory lane Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, without forgetting to live in the 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon moment, with hits from the midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 ’70s right up to the present day. (advance). Price includes one drink. Sala Apolo (details above). Thu 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 Raw Rebels (advance). Price includes one Dance to the best beats of the drink. ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local and international DJs, in the heart The Bus Music Club of the city. Session celebrating non- Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, commercial, non-mainstream 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. and underground music. €5. Price includes one drink. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. Crappy Tuesdays €15 (on the door). €13 (advance). Indie, post-punk, , Price includes one drink. new wave and rock are all served up for your delectation. Happy Techno Sala Apolo (details above). Tue The beat will get you at this 12.30am. €14 (on the door). weekend party dedicated to new- €13 (advance). Price includes age and old-school dance music. one drink. City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat Caníbal Sound System 12.30am. €12-€18 (depends Live acts, DJs and roots music on arrival time and if you sign make for an underground vibe at up on guest list). Price includes this long-running club night. one drink.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 63 Getaways Still time to celebrate 6JGƁPCNFC[UQHUWOOGTDTKPICRNGVJQTCQHHGUVKXCNUCETQUUVJGTGIKQPQH$CTEGNQPC By Nick Chapman

1. 2015 Festival Altaveu 1 3. 8th Fira Mercat Modernista de Altaveu (‘loudspeaker’) is a Canet de Mar grassroots music festival in Sant For three days in September, the Boi de Llobregat that brings seaside town of Canet de Mar together all kinds of performers, travels 100 years back in time to from singer-songwriters to rock relive its golden age – the period of bands and rappers. There are its many splendid modernista international artists – Howe Gelb, buildings, including some by the M. Ward, Dorian Wood – and big great architect Lluís Domènech i names on the Spanish scene – Muntaner. The fair takes over the Sidonie, Nacho Vegas, Cristina whole old town, with exhibitions, Rosenvinge and Amparo Sánchez – craft stalls and demonstrations, as well as Altaveu Emergents, a guided tours and street showcase for home-grown talent. performances. The festivities Last year, Emergents turned the culminate in evenings of music and streets and squares of the town 2 3 dancing that evoke the costumes, centre into an open-air stage for atmosphere and spirit of an elegant Sant Boi’s thriving music scene, Mediterranean resort at the while the Altaveu Frontera beginning of the 20th century. competition has been a platform Sep 18-20. http://canetdemar.cat/ for new bands since 1993. ƁTCOQFGTPKUVC Sep 10-12. www.festivalaltaveu.cat 4. 27th Mercat de Música Viva 2. Festa de la Verema d’Alella de Vic–MMVV Alella marks the beginning of the Probably the most important music grape harvest with its wine festival, festival in the Catalan-speaking celebrating a winemaking heritage region, Vic’s ‘Live Music Market’ that goes back to Roman times, attracts new and established and was mentioned by Pliny the 1. Altaveu at bands from Catalonia, Spain and Elder. Alella is one of Spain’s 2. Stomping the grapes in Alella the Med basin, but also the rest of UOCNNGUVQHƁEKCNN[TGIWNCVGFYKPG 3. Canet’s modernista heritage the world. It features scores of live DOs (designation of origin), and its 4. Live music in Vic concerts on stages large and small, vineyards are scattered along the JOSEP CANO with free shows on the medieval urbanised Maresme coast, but the 4 main square, and ticketed festival maintains a link with performances in marquees and EGPVWTKGUQHVTCFKVKQPƁNNKPIVJG more intimate venues. Headliners town with the smell of freshly include local faves Els Amics de les pressed grape juice. It’s one of the Arts and Els Catarres, but part of most anticipated and popular the fun is discovering new acts. To festivals in the county, attracting help, themed musical ‘itineraries’ large numbers of visitors with its group performances by style, from packed programme – from the LC\\UQWNCPFHQNMVQƂCOGPEQCPF QHƁEKCNDNGUUKPIQHVJGƁTUVITCRG pop-rock. As the ‘market’ part of juice to be pressed, to food and the name suggests, it also draws wine tastings, cellar tours and industry pros: the MVLAB grape-stomping workshops. conference is an opportunity for Sep 4-6. alella.cat/festaverema artists, promoters, labels and agencies to meet and network. Sep 17-20. www.mmvv.cat/en/

www.barcelonaismuchmore.com

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Cerdanya, it’s an easy one-hour WALKING THROUGH THE NATIONAL PARK OF walk. Along with a visit to the Casa AIGÜESTORTES (CHARIOTS OF FIRE ROUTE) del Riu and the Riberes del Segre woodland, it provides an introduction to an ecosystem that is also home to polecats, herons, the rare Pyrenean desman and brown trout. parcsnaturals.gencat. cat/ca/detalls/Article/08_ Itinerari_lludriga

DISCOVERING THE COAST The Illes Medes are a group of islets and reefs off the Costa Brava near L’Estartit, with a variety of species and environments that make them one of the western Mediterranean’s most valuable marine reserves. A coastal walk from L’Estartit to Cap de la Barra has a view of the whole archipelago, but you can enjoy it close up from the Nautilus, a glass-bottomed boat that provides a window onto

JUANI RUZ JUANI the lives of groupers, octopuses and even dolphins. www.english. nautilus.es Family adventures The wetland area of the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà lies 9KVJEQQNGTVGORGTCVWTGUCPFVJGƁTUVUKIPUQHCWVWOP5GRVGODGTKU inland from the Bay of Roses, and is home to 327 different species, ideal for exploring Catalonia’s rich natural heritage. By Nick Chapman with an impressive number of wetland birds and waders, Fresh air, open spaces, and the including herons, moorhens, chance to spot flora and fauna and dabchicks, curlews and all kinds generally go wild in the outdoors – of ducks. Starting from the Estany what could make for a better family de Cortalet, an easy, level walk day out? We’ve picked five routes offers plenty of opportunities for suitable for kids of all ages, bird-spotting between the Muga through high mountains, forests, and Fluvià rivers. www. rivers, wildlife-rich wetlands and ECUVGNNQGORWTKCDTCXCEQO marine reserves, all within driving KOCIGUFQEWKPHQKVKPIDRFH distance of Barcelona. ON THE MUSHROOM TRAIL CHARIOTS OF FIRE Autumn is when Catalonia’s many In the Pyrenees, summer brings species of wild mushroom – some heat and storms, so the milder days edible, some deadly – begin to of September are the perfect time FAUNA IN THE NATURAL PARK appear. In the Poblet Natural Park in to head for the hills. A great place to OF AIGUAMOLLS DE L’EMPORDÀ the region of Tarragona, budding start is the region’s most beautiful mycologists can discover the fungi National Park, Aigüestortes i Estany version, for kids up to ten, can be take you into an environment where of one of the best-preserved forests de Sant Maurici. The mountain huts completed without the need for the right preparation and in the region. Two routes start from that serve this rocky wilderness of overnight stays. Young hikers get equipment are essential – for info the Casa Forestal in Castellfollit, granite peaks and high-altitude their official booklet stamped at the see www.carrosdefoc.com/en/. and giant mushrooms painted on tarns are linked by a spectacular huts they visit, providing extra Further east, in the Cadí- tree trunks indicate species to look long-distance walking tour, the motivation on steeper ascents. Moixeró Natural Park, a low-level out for, including such unlikely grandly named Carros de Foc There’s also the chance to spot route on the banks of the Alt Segre culinary favourites as pink-tipped (‘Chariots of Fire’). The children’s golden eagles, vultures, chamois explores the habitat of that most corals, bloody milk caps and the and marmots. While many of the elusive of river dwellers, the otter. dirty tricholoma. parcsnaturals. walks are easy or moderate, all Starting from Martinet de IGPECVECVECRQDNGV

www.catalunya.com

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Top Ten closure. Going in through its 1. barred sliding doors is like Can Conesa travelling back in time. Since 1951, this sandwich bar in Frozen Plaça Sant Jaume has fed generations of Barcelona 7. residents who’ve gathered in in time Servei Estació front of City Hall or the Catalan All Barcelona DIY lovers will, government building to make UQQPGTQTNCVGTƁPFVJGOUGNXGUKP their opinions known on local this huge shop opposite the issues. Enjoying a hot sandwich Fundació Antoni Tàpies on while at a protest event is always C/Aragó. It’s an extraordinary gratifying, even if you have to RNCEGYJGTG[QWECPƁPFCNNMKPFU queue up for it. of tools, even though it’s not really a place appropriate for claustrophobics. If you go, take a 2. compass, just in case. Bar Leo A Barceloneta classic that – along with many others 8. in the area – helps make this Granges de Petritxol neighbourhood one of the best for With so many out-of-town visitors a traditional vermouth experience in the area, it can be a surprise to (thanks in part to its maximalist discover that the traditional hot interior décor). The problem is it’s chocolate with cream (a suís in GCU[VQIGVECTTKGFCYC[CPFƁPF Catalan) is still served in the yourself having lunch or eating 3 classic cafés (granges) on C/

dinner there, too. In such places, CARLA TRAMULLAS Petritxol: places like La Pallaresa you know when you’re going in, and La Dulcinea. If you’re on any but when you’ll leave is anybody’s kind of diet, these places should guess. be avoided like the plague, but otherwise, sit back and gorge like 3. the locals. El Cangrejo Raval In this venue you’ll feel as though 9. you were back in the times of Torre del Rellotge painter and LGBT activist José In this corner of the city’s port, Pérez Ocaña, who scandalised [QWoNNƁPFVJGUVKNNQRGTCVKPI conservative types with the ƁUJGTOGPoUIWKNF+VoUVJGNCUV GZVTCXCICPVQWVƁVUJGYQTGQP.C surviving primary sector in Rambla during the 1970s. Each Barcelona, and is surrounded by weekend this musical club on cruise ships, yachts, boat tours C/Montserrat takes you on a trip 10 and shoppers heading to the through time. Maremagnum centre. The miracle MARIA DIAS needs to continue if the city wants metro station on Bailèn and to keep having fresh, locally 4. Provença is a real blast from the ECWIJVƁUJ Canigó girls past. There are no lifts, the gates Like in a lot of schools in the posh are still mechanical, and it has a upper part of Barcelona, the girls sweet shop and two clothes 10. at the private Canigó school wear stalls. All that’s missing is a Wooden lifts a polo shirt and pleated tartan ƂCUJGTKPJKUTCKPEQCVVQTGCNN[ Especially prevalent in Eixample skirt. The boldest students do all make the point. apartment buildings, you enter they can to disguise their VJGUGOCIKECNRNCEGUEQPƁFGPV outdated uniform, but it’s no easy that their mechanisms won’t task. 6. expire just as you’re going up. La Model Luckily, at the start of the 20th This city prison, located just century things were made to last, 5. minutes from Sants-Estació, and they work great, even if they Verdaguer metro stop witnessed many struggles are reeeeeally slow. There are others like it, but the against Franco, and for years has 2 entrance to this blue line (L5) DGGPYCKVKPIHQTKVUFGƁPKVKXG By Ada Castells

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